Goat Feeders and Hay Racks: Design to Minimize Fecal Contamination

By Dr. Zubair Khalid, DVM, MS, PhD · 2026-08-14

Key Takeaways

• Elevated feeding structures are paramount: Feeders and hay racks must position feed at or above goat shoulder height (20-28 inches for adults, 16-18 inches for smaller breeds) to physically prevent defecation and urination into the feed, a primary fecal-oral transmission route for Haemonchus contortus and coccidia.
• Controlled access via appropriate openings minimizes contamination and waste: Head slots should be sized (5-7 inches wide, 8-10 inches tall for adults) to allow head access but prevent goats from climbing in, which leads to trampling, defecation, and significant feed spoilage.
• Feeder design must facilitate rigorous hygiene: Smooth, non-porous surfaces and features like hinged sides, removable bottoms, or clean-out doors are essential for efficient removal of old feed, manure, and debris, thereby reducing bacterial reservoirs (E. coli, Salmonella) and parasite oocysts.
• Addressing social dynamics reduces exposure risk: Providing adequate feeding space (12-18 inches per adult goat) or separate feeders for different age/social groups mitigates competition, preventing dominant animals from monopolizing feed and forcing subordinates to consume potentially contaminated leftovers.
• Material selection and structural integrity are critical for safety and longevity: Utilizing durable materials like galvanized steel or sealed treated lumber, and ensuring smooth, burr-free edges, prevents injuries and the accumulation of organic matter that harbors pathogens and parasites.

Keeping goats healthy starts with what you put in front of them and how you present it. This guide covers the practical design principles for goat feeders and hay racks that reduce fecal contamination, lower parasite loads, and cut feed waste. It is written for small and mid-scale goat producers, homesteaders, and anyone building or upgrading their own equipment, with step-by-step plans, material guidance, and maintenance routines you can put to work today.

At a Glance

• Elevate everything. Feeders and hay racks should place feed at or above goat shoulder height to keep manure and urine out of the ration.
• Use the right openings. Head slots and openings should allow access for the goat's head and neck but prevent the goat from climbing into the feeder or soiling the hay with front feet.
• Match the feeder to the goat. Separate feeders for does, bucks, and kids reduce competition and waste, and they lower the risk of dominant animals contaminating feed for the rest of the herd.
• Design for cleaning. Every feeder needs a way to remove old feed, manure, and debris quickly. Smooth surfaces, hinged sides, and removable bottoms make the job easier.
• Consider parasite transmission. Fecal contamination of feed is a direct route for barber pole worm and coccidia transmission. Feeder design is a cornerstone of goat feeder parasite control.
• Choose durable materials. Galvanized steel, treated lumber (with safe coatings), and food-grade plastics handle weather and goat abuse better than untreated wood or thin wire.
• Build with safety in mind. No sharp edges, no gaps that trap heads, and no design that allows a goat to get a hoof caught.

Why Fecal Contamination Matters

Goats are fastidious eaters by nature. In a pasture they browse selectively, often choosing leaves and plant tips over growth near the ground. They avoid grazing close to their own droppings when they have room to range. But in confinement or in small paddocks, goats lose that choice. When you put hay on the ground or in a poorly designed feeder, you force them to eat from the same surface where they urinate and defecate. That creates a cycle of reinfection that no dewormer can overcome.

The main culprits are internal parasites, especially the barber pole worm (Haemonchus contortus), and coccidia. The barber pole worm is the leading cause of production loss in goats in warm, humid regions. Adult worms live in the abomasum and feed on blood. A heavy infestation causes anemia, bottle jaw, weight loss, and death. The larvae develop in manure on pasture and then migrate onto forage. When a goat eats contaminated feed, it ingests those larvae and the cycle continues.

Coccidia are single-celled parasites that damage the lining of the gut. They are especially dangerous to kids. While adult goats build some immunity, stress, weaning, and poor nutrition can trigger clinical coccidiosis with diarrhea, dehydration, and stunted growth. Oocysts shed in feces sporulate in warm, moist conditions and become infective within a day or two. Feed contaminated with feces is a major route of transmission.

Bacterial contamination also matters. E. coli, Salmonella, and Clostridium species can all be present in goat manure. When feed sits in manure, goats ingest these pathogens. In a healthy adult, that may cause a mild digestive upset. In kids, pregnant does, or stressed animals, it can cause serious disease. Mastitis-causing bacteria can also spread when does lie in contaminated bedding and then nurse kids, and when udders contact dirty feed surfaces.

The fecal-oral route is the single most important transmission pathway for most goat diseases. Your feeder design is your first line of defense. A well-designed feeder physically separates the goat's mouth from its manure. It keeps hay off the ground. It prevents goats from standing in the feeder. It makes cleaning routine and quick. And it reduces the number of parasite larvae and bacteria the goats ingest with every meal.

The Biology of Goat Feeding Behavior

Goats are browsers, not grazers. Their natural feeding posture involves reaching up into shrubs and trees. They use their prehensile lips and tongue to select individual leaves. They are also highly selective, sorting through hay to find the most palatable pieces. This behavior has direct consequences for feeder design.

Because goats naturally reach up, they do well with elevated feeders. A goat will happily stretch its neck to reach hay. This is the opposite of cattle, which are comfortable grazing down at ground level. You can use this behavior to your advantage. An elevated hay rack that requires a goat to reach up will keep the animal's head well above any manure on the floor.

Goats also waste a lot of hay when they sort through it. They pull mouthfuls out, drop pieces, and then pick through what has fallen. A feeder that does not account for this behavior will lose a significant percentage of the hay to the ground. Once hay hits the ground, it is contaminated. You should not feed it back to the goats.

Goats are social animals with a clear dominance hierarchy. When you provide a single feeder for a group, the dominant animals control access. They eat first, they eat the best hay, and they often stand in the feeder or on top of it. Subordinate animals wait their turn, eat the leftovers, and are more likely to be exposed to contamination. Your feeder design needs to provide enough space for all animals to eat comfortably, or you need to create separate feeding areas for different social groups.

Ground Feeding: The Worst Option

Feeding hay directly on the ground is common on small farms, but it is the most dangerous method for parasite control. When you throw hay on the ground, goats trample it, urinate on it, and defecate on it within minutes. They then eat the hay that is contaminated. This is a direct route for parasite ingestion.

Ground feeding also wastes a significant amount of hay. Goats trample and soil far more than they eat. Estimates vary, but many producers report waste rates of 30 to 50 percent when feeding on the ground. In areas with wet weather, the waste is even higher because hay gets muddy and is refused.

If you must feed on the ground temporarily, use a clean, dry area and feed in small quantities that the goats will consume quickly. Move the feeding area regularly to avoid building up a parasite hotspot. But understand that ground feeding is a stopgap, not a solution. Any permanent feeding setup should elevate the feed.

Feeder Types and Their Strengths

There are several basic feeder designs that work well for goats. Each has advantages and disadvantages depending on your herd size, facilities, and budget.

Hay Racks and Hay Mangers

A hay rack is a simple frame with vertical bars or slats that holds hay and allows goats to pull it through the openings. The classic wall-mounted hay rack attaches to a fence or barn wall. It keeps hay off the ground and lets goats eat from a natural elevated position.

The key design feature is the spacing of the bars. The openings need to be wide enough for a goat to insert its head and pull out hay, but narrow enough to prevent the goat from climbing in. For adult goats, a spacing of 6 to 8 inches between bars works well. For kids, use 4 to 6 inches. The bars should be vertical or slightly angled.

A common problem with hay racks is that goats pull hay out and drop it on the ground. You can minimize this by adding a shallow tray or lip at the bottom of the rack to catch falling pieces. The tray should be shallow enough that goats cannot climb into it, but deep enough to catch most of the dropped hay.

Hay Bunk Feeders

A hay bunk is a trough or box with a slatted top. The hay goes inside the box, and goats pull it through the slats on top. This design is excellent for keeping hay clean because the hay is fully enclosed. Goats cannot climb into the feeder, and they cannot soil the hay with their feet.

The slats create individual feeding stations. Each goat can access the hay through its own opening, which reduces competition and allows subordinate animals to eat without being bullied. The slats also force goats to eat with their heads down, which is a less natural posture than reaching up, but it is still far better than ground feeding.

For a hay bunk, the opening width depends on the size of your goats. For adult goats, 5 to 7 inches is typical. For Nigerian Dwarf or other small breeds, use 4 to 5 inches. The slats should be rounded or covered with pipe insulation to protect the goats' necks and prevent them from getting stuck.

Hay Nets and Hay Bags

Hay nets, commonly used for horses, can also work for goats. The net holds hay in a mesh bag, and the goat pulls pieces through the mesh. The mesh size determines how fast the goat can eat. Smaller mesh slows consumption and reduces waste.

The main advantage of hay nets is that they are portable and inexpensive. You can hang them anywhere. They also slow down fast eaters, which can help prevent bloat. The main disadvantage is that goats can be hard on nets. They will tear the mesh trying to get at the hay. You need to check nets regularly for holes and replace them when they become worn.

When using a hay net, hang it at a height that forces the goat to reach up slightly. Do not hang it so low that the goat can step on it or so high that the goat has to strain excessively. The bottom of the net should be at or slightly above the goat's shoulder height.

Self-Feeders

A self-feeder is a large hopper that holds a supply of hay or grain and dispenses it as the goats eat. These are useful for producers who cannot feed every day. The hopper keeps feed dry and clean, and it reduces labor.

For hay, a self-feeder is essentially a large hay bunk with a covered top. The cover protects the hay from rain and reduces waste. For grain, a self-feeder is a hopper with a trough at the bottom. The goat inserts its head to access the grain, and the hopper refills the trough as grain is consumed.

Self-feeders require careful management. You need to monitor feed levels and ensure the feed does not become stale or moldy. Grain self-feeders can lead to overeating and bloat if not adjusted properly. They also need regular cleaning to prevent buildup of fines and dust.

Creep Feeders for Kids

A creep feeder is a feeding area that is accessible only to kids. It has openings that adult goats cannot fit through. This allows kids to eat a high-quality ration without competition from the adults. Creep feeders are important for parasite control because they give kids access to clean feed during the vulnerable period around weaning.

The design is simple. Build a pen or enclosure with an entrance that is sized for kids only. The entrance should be about 8 to 10 inches wide and 18 to 24 inches high for standard-sized goats. Adjust the dimensions for smaller breeds. Inside the creep area, provide a hay rack and a grain feeder at kid height.

Step-by-Step: Building an Elevated Hay Rack

This section provides a practical plan for building a wall-mounted hay rack that minimizes contamination. This is a straightforward project that requires basic carpentry skills and tools.

Materials

• 2x4 lumber for the frame (use treated lumber for outdoor use, but cover any exposed treated surfaces with a food-safe sealant)
• 1x4 or 1x6 lumber for the slats
• Galvanized screws or nails
• A sheet of plywood for the back panel (optional, for wall mounting)
• Hinges and latches for a clean-out door

Dimensions

For a herd of 10 to 15 adult goats, build a rack that is 4 to 6 feet long. The rack should be mounted so that the bottom of the feeding area is at the goats' shoulder height, which is typically 20 to 24 inches for standard-sized goats. The top of the rack should be about 48 to 54 inches from the ground.

Construction Steps

1. Build the frame. Cut two 2x4s to the desired length of the rack (for example, 6 feet). Cut two more 2x4s to 24 inches for the top and bottom crosspieces. Assemble the frame with galvanized screws.

1. Attach the back panel. If you are mounting the rack against a wall, attach a piece of plywood to the back of the frame. This prevents hay from falling behind the rack into a space you cannot clean. If you are mounting the rack to a fence, you can skip the back panel and use the fence as the back.

1. Install the slats. Cut the 1x4 or 1x6 lumber into slats that are 24 inches long. Space the slats vertically along the front of the frame. The spacing between slats should be 6 to 8 inches for adult goats. Attach the slats with screws so they can be removed for cleaning.

1. Add a bottom tray. Cut a piece of plywood or use a shallow galvanized tray to fit under the slats. This tray catches hay that the goats pull out but drop. The tray should be removable for easy cleaning. Attach it to the frame with hinges on one side and a latch on the other.

1. Add a clean-out door. On the back or side of the rack, install a hinged door that opens to the inside of the feeder. This allows you to remove old hay and debris without reaching through the slats. A door that is 12 by 12 inches is sufficient for most racks.

1. Mount the rack. Attach the rack to the wall or fence using heavy-duty brackets or lag screws. Make sure the rack is level and securely fastened. Goats will lean on the rack and push against it, so the mounting must be solid.

1. Sand and finish. Sand all edges to remove splinters. Apply a food-safe sealant or paint to protect the wood from weather and to make cleaning easier. Do not use creosote or other toxic treatments on any surface the goats might chew.

Mounting Height

The correct mounting height depends on the size of your goats. The bottom of the feeding area should be at the goat's shoulder height. For most standard-sized goats, that is 20 to 24 inches. For Nigerian Dwarf goats, it is 16 to 18 inches. For large breeds like Boer, it is 24 to 28 inches.

If the rack is too low, goats will step over it or climb on it. If it is too high, smaller goats will not be able to reach the hay. When you have a mixed herd, mount the rack at a height that suits the smallest animals, and provide a separate, higher rack for the larger animals if needed.

Step-by-Step: Building a Hay Bunk Feeder

A hay bunk feeder is a freestanding unit that works well for outdoor feeding areas. It is more complex to build than a wall-mounted rack, but it is more versatile and easier to keep clean.

Materials

• 2x4 or 2x6 lumber for the frame
• 3/4-inch plywood for the sides and bottom
• 1x4 lumber for the slats
• Galvanized screws
• Hinges and latches
• Treated lumber for the base (to resist ground contact)

Construction Steps

1. Determine the size. A hay bunk for 10 to 15 goats should be 6 to 8 feet long, 30 to 36 inches wide, and 24 to 30 inches deep. The slats on top create the feeding openings.

1. Build the box. Cut two pieces of plywood for the sides, each 30 by 24 inches. Cut one piece for the bottom, 72 by 30 inches. Cut two pieces for the ends, 30 by 24 inches. Assemble the box using galvanized screws.

1. Add a raised floor. The bottom of the box should be 6 to 12 inches above the ground. This keeps the hay off the ground and allows air to circulate underneath. Attach legs made from 2x4 lumber to the corners of the box.

1. Install the slats. Cut 1x4 lumber into slats that span the width of the box, 30 inches. Space the slats evenly along the top of the box. The spacing between slats should be 5 to 6 inches for adult goats. Attach the slats with screws so they can be removed.

1. Add a lid or cover. To protect the hay from rain, add a hinged roof over the top of the feeder. The roof should be pitched so water runs off. Use plywood and attach it with hinges on one side so you can lift it to fill the feeder.

1. Create a clean-out access. Install a hinged door on one end of the box to remove old hay and debris. Alternatively, make the entire top slat assembly removable so you can access the interior.

1. Install a manure guard. A horizontal board or pipe placed 10 to 12 inches above the slats will discourage goats from standing on the feeder. This is an optional but effective addition.

Key Design Principles to Follow

Several design principles apply to all goat feeder plans, regardless of the specific type you build.

Elevation Is Non-Negotiable

The single most important factor in reducing fecal contamination is keeping feed off the ground. Any feeder that places feed at or above the goat's chest height will dramatically reduce the amount of manure and urine that reaches the feed. Even a simple elevated platform with a hay net is far better than ground feeding.

Control the Openings

The size and shape of the feeding openings determine whether goats can climb into the feeder, get their heads stuck, or waste hay. The opening should be wide enough for the goat's head and neck to pass through comfortably, but narrow enough to prevent the shoulders from fitting through. For adult goats, an opening of 5 to 7 inches wide and 8 to 10 inches tall is typical. For kids, reduce the dimensions by 20 to 30 percent.

Use Smooth, Cleanable Surfaces

Goats are rough on equipment, but they also need clean surfaces. Rough wood harbors bacteria and parasites and is difficult to sanitize. Use smooth lumber, plywood, or metal for surfaces that contact feed. Seal wood with a food-safe finish. Avoid materials with cracks, crevices, or rough grain where organic matter can accumulate.

Make Cleaning Easy

You will clean your feeders more often if cleaning is easy. Design feeders with removable slats, hinged doors, or lift-out trays. The interior of the feeder should be accessible so you can sweep out old hay, manure, and debris. A feeder that takes 30 minutes to clean will be cleaned rarely. A feeder that takes 5 minutes will be cleaned regularly.

Prevent Climbing and Perching

Goats love to climb. If your feeder design allows a goat to stand on top, it will. Once a goat is on top, it will defecate into the feeder. Add a horizontal bar above the feeding area, space the slats so they are uncomfortable to stand on, or build the feeder with a steeply pitched top that discourages perching.

Design for the Dominance Hierarchy

Goats establish a clear pecking order. Dominant animals will push subordinates away from feed. A single feeder with limited access will cause the dominant animals to monopolize the best feed and the subordinates to get the leftovers, which are often contaminated. Provide multiple feeding stations, or separate feeders for different groups, so all animals can eat without competition.

Material Selection and Safety

The materials you choose for your feeder affect durability, safety, and ease of cleaning.

Wood

Untreated lumber is cheap and easy to work with, but it absorbs moisture, harbors bacteria, and rots quickly. For outdoor feeders, use treated lumber for the frame and base. However, treated lumber contains chemicals that can be toxic if ingested in large quantities. Cover any treated surfaces with a food-safe sealant, or line the interior of the feeder with a food-grade plastic liner.

For the interior surfaces that contact feed, use untreated lumber and seal it with a food-safe polyurethane or epoxy. Replace the wood when it becomes rough, cracked, or splintered.

Galvanized Steel

Galvanized steel is durable, easy to clean, and resistant to chewing. It is an excellent choice for slats, trays, and troughs. The main concern is sharp edges. Cut steel can have burrs that injure goats. Deburr all edges and consider rolling or bending the edges for safety.

Food-Grade Plastic

High-density polyethylene (HDPE) and other food-grade plastics are easy to clean, resistant to moisture, and safe for goats. Plastic is lighter than steel and will not rust. The main concern is durability. Goats can chew through thin plastic, and UV exposure makes it brittle over time. Use heavy-duty plastic and replace it when it shows signs of wear.

Pipe and Tubing

PVC pipe and metal tubing can be used for slats and frames. PVC is cheap and easy to work with, but it can be chewed and becomes brittle in cold weather. Metal tubing is more durable but heavier and more expensive. For the slats on a hay rack, metal tubing is a good choice because it is smooth, strong, and easy to clean.

Fasteners

Use galvanized or stainless steel screws and nails. Regular steel will rust quickly in the damp environment of a goat feeder. Rust weakens the structure and creates rough surfaces that can injure goats. Check fasteners regularly and replace any that are corroded or loose.

Common Mistakes in Goat Feeder Design

Many well-intentioned producers build feeders that fail because of a few common design errors. Avoiding these mistakes will save you time, money, and frustration.

Making Openings Too Wide

If the openings in your hay rack are too wide, goats will climb into the feeder. Once inside, they will trample the hay, defecate in it, and waste large amounts of feed. The opening should be sized so that the goat's head and neck fit through, but the shoulders do not. Test the opening with your own arm. If you can fit your entire arm through with room to spare, the opening is too wide for most goats.

Making Openings Too Narrow

The opposite problem is also common. If the openings are too narrow, goats will struggle to get their heads through, and they may get stuck. A goat that is stuck can panic, injure its neck, or die from suffocation or strangulation. The opening must be wide enough for the goat to insert and withdraw its head easily. A good rule of thumb is to allow 1 to 2 inches of clearance on each side of the goat's head.

Placing the Feeder Too Low

A feeder mounted too low encourages goats to step into it or onto it. It also puts the feed closer to the ground, where manure splashes up during rain. The bottom of the feeding area should be at or above the goat's shoulder height. If you have a mixed herd, use the shoulder height of the smallest animal as your reference.

Building with Rough or Porous Materials

Rough wood, particle board, and other porous materials absorb moisture and organic matter. They are impossible to clean thoroughly and become reservoirs for bacteria and parasites. Use smooth, non-porous materials or seal the surfaces with a food-safe finish.

Forgetting the Clean-Out Access

A feeder that you cannot clean will quickly become a health hazard. Old hay, dust, and manure accumulate in the corners and on the bottom. When you add fresh hay on top, the contaminated material gets mixed in. Every feeder needs a way to remove old material completely.

Ignoring Rain and Weather

Outdoor feeders need protection from rain and snow. Wet hay molds quickly, and moldy hay can cause respiratory problems and digestive upset in goats. A roof or cover over the feeder keeps the hay dry and reduces waste.

Overcrowding the Feeder

A single feeder that is too small for the herd creates competition and stress. Subordinate animals may not get enough to eat, and they may be forced to eat contaminated feed. Provide at least 12 to 18 inches of feeder space per adult goat. For hay racks with individual openings, provide one opening per goat.

Managing Feeders for Parasite Control

The design of your feeder is the first step in goat feeder parasite control, but it is not the only step. How you manage the feeder and the feeding area is equally important.

Clean Feeders Regularly

Remove old hay and debris from the feeder at least once a week, more often in hot, humid weather. Scrub the interior with a brush and a mild disinfectant. Rinse thoroughly and allow the feeder to dry completely before adding fresh hay. A clean feeder is the single most important management practice for reducing parasite transmission.

Rotate Feeding Areas

If your feeders are portable, move them to a fresh area of the pasture regularly. This prevents the buildup of parasite larvae in the soil around the feeder. Even with an elevated feeder, larvae can survive in the manure that accumulates under the feeder. Moving the feeder every 1 to 2 weeks gives the old area time to rest and break the parasite cycle.

Manage the Area Around the Feeder

The ground around the feeder is a contamination zone. Goats congregate there, defecate, and drop bits of hay. This area becomes a hotspot for parasite larvae. If possible, lay down a base of gravel or concrete around the feeder to improve drainage and make the area easier to clean. Rake up and remove manure and old hay regularly.

Use a Two-Feeder System

Consider having two feeders and alternating their use. While one feeder is in use, the other is being cleaned and rested. This allows you to clean the feeder thoroughly without leaving the goats without feed. It also gives the area around the idle feeder time to dry out and break the parasite cycle.

Monitor Feed Consumption

Watch how much hay the goats are eating and how much is being wasted. A feeder that wastes more than 10 percent of the hay needs adjustment. Look for signs that the goats are pulling hay out and dropping it on the ground. You may need to adjust the opening size, add a tray, or change the type of feeder.

Separate Feeding Areas for Different Age Groups

Kids are more susceptible to parasites than adults, and they need clean feed to build immunity. Does in late pregnancy and early lactation also have higher nutritional needs and lower immunity. Provide separate feeding areas for kids, pregnant does, and bucks to reduce competition and lower the risk of parasite transmission.

Monitoring and Recordkeeping

Good feeder management requires observation and recordkeeping. You need to know what is normal for your herd so you can spot problems early.

Daily Checks

Walk through your goat area daily and check each feeder. Look for:

• Signs of feed refusal or waste
• Manure in or on the feeder
• Wet or moldy hay
• Damage to the feeder structure
• Goats that are not eating or are being excluded from the feeder

Weekly Checks

Once a week, do a more thorough inspection:

• Clean the feeders and check for wear and tear
• Check the ground around the feeder for manure buildup
• Look for signs of parasite infestation in the herd, such as pale eyelids or diarrhea
• Check the body condition of the goats to ensure they are getting enough to eat

Recordkeeping

Keep a simple record of your feeder management and herd health. Record:

• Date of feeder cleaning
• Any repairs or adjustments made
• Amount of feed offered and amount wasted
• Any signs of illness in the herd
• Deworming treatments and dates

This record will help you identify patterns. For example, if you notice an increase in parasite problems after a period of wet weather, you may need to clean feeders more frequently during wet seasons. If you notice that one feeder is consistently associated with waste, you may need to redesign it.

FAMACHA Scoring

The FAMACHA system is a tool for detecting anemia in goats, which is a sign of barber pole worm infestation. It involves comparing the color of the goat's lower eyelid to a standardized chart. Pale pink or white eyelids indicate anemia and a need for deworming. This is a useful tool for monitoring the effectiveness of your parasite control program, including your feeder management. The American Consortium for Small Ruminant Parasite Control provides guidance on using the FAMACHA system.

Decision Thresholds: When to Change Your Feeder Design

You do not need to redesign your feeder every time you see a problem. But certain signs indicate that your current design is not working and needs to be changed.

High Feed Waste

If you are losing more than 10 to 15 percent of your hay to waste, your feeder is not working well. Look at where the waste is happening. If hay is being pulled out and dropped on the ground, add a tray or adjust the opening size. If hay is being trampled in the feeder, the openings are too wide and goats are climbing in. If hay is being soiled with manure, the feeder is too low or the openings are too large.

Frequent Parasite Problems

If you are deworming more often than recommended, or if your goats are consistently showing signs of parasite infestation despite regular deworming, your feeder design is contributing to the problem. Review your feeder design and management. Are the feeders elevated? Are they being cleaned regularly? Is the area around the feeder being managed?

Injury or Getting Stuck

If a goat gets its head stuck in the feeder, the openings are too small or the wrong shape. Make the openings larger or change the design to prevent the problem from recurring. Any feeder that can trap a goat is a hazard and must be fixed immediately.

Dominant Animals Monopolizing Feed

If subordinate animals are thin or showing signs of malnutrition, the feeder is not providing enough space for all animals to eat. Add more feeding stations, build a larger feeder, or separate the herd into groups.

Feeders Are Difficult to Clean

If you are avoiding cleaning the feeder because it takes too long, the design is wrong. Modify the feeder to make cleaning easier. Add a clean-out door, make the slats removable, or redesign the interior so that debris does not accumulate in corners.

Special Considerations for Different Production Systems

The feeder design that works for a small homestead herd may not work for a large commercial operation. Consider your production system when choosing a feeder design.

Small Homestead Herds

For a herd of 1 to 10 goats, a single wall-mounted hay rack or a small hay bunk is usually sufficient. You have the time to clean feeders regularly and monitor individual animals. You can also afford to build with higher-quality materials because the scale is small.

Larger Commercial Herds

For herds of 50 or more goats, you need a feeder system that is efficient and easy to manage. Self-feeders and large hay bunks are common choices. You need to think about how you will fill the feeders, how you will clean them, and how you will manage the area around them. Consider using multiple smaller feeders rather than one large feeder, because this reduces competition and makes cleaning easier.

Pasture-Based Systems

If your goats spend most of their time on pasture, you may not need a large permanent feeder. Portable hay racks and hay nets can be moved around the pasture to distribute manure and break the parasite cycle. Use a system that allows you to move the feeder easily, such as a hay net hung from a portable frame or a small hay bunk on skids.

Confinement Systems

If your goats are confined in a barn or drylot, feeder design is critical because the goats have no alternative forage. They must eat whatever you provide, and they have no way to avoid contaminated feed. Use elevated feeders with individual feeding stations, clean them frequently, and manage the bedding and manure inside the confinement area.

Kidding and Nursery Pens

In kidding pens, the feeder needs to be accessible to both the doe and the newborn kids. Use a low hay rack that the doe can reach easily, but make sure the kids cannot climb into it. Provide a creep feeder for the kids with a high-quality ration that is separate from the doe's feed.

Seasonal Management

Feeder management needs to change with the seasons.

Spring and Summer

Warm, humid weather is the peak season for parasite transmission. Clean feeders more frequently, at least twice a week. Move portable feeders to fresh ground every 1 to 2 weeks. Remove manure from around the feeder daily. Watch for signs of coccidiosis in kids, which is more common in warm, wet conditions.

Fall

As temperatures cool, parasite transmission slows, but it does not stop. Continue regular cleaning and monitoring. This is a good time to do a thorough inspection of your feeders and make any needed repairs before winter.

Winter

In cold weather, hay consumption increases as goats use energy to stay warm. You will need to provide more hay, and you need to make sure the feeder can handle the increased volume. Keep the feeder area dry and free of ice. If the ground around the feeder becomes muddy, add gravel or move the feeder to a drier location.

When to Call a Veterinarian or Extension Agent

Good feeder design reduces the risk of disease, but it does not eliminate it. You need to know when to seek professional help.

Signs That Require Veterinary Attention

Call your veterinarian if you see any of the following:

• Goats showing signs of severe anemia, such as very pale eyelids or weakness
• Diarrhea that persists for more than 24 hours, especially in kids
• Sudden death in any goat
• Multiple goats showing signs of illness at the same time
• Goats that are not eating or are losing weight despite access to feed
• Any injury from a feeder, such as a trapped head, cut, or broken bone

When to Consult an Extension Agent

Your local cooperative extension agent can help with feeder design, parasite management, and herd health planning. They can provide soil testing, forage analysis, and advice on deworming protocols. They can also help you interpret your FAMACHA scores and develop a targeted parasite control program.

Working with Your Veterinarian on Parasite Control

Your veterinarian should be your primary partner in developing a parasite control program. They can perform fecal egg counts to determine the level of parasite infestation in your herd. They can help you choose the right dewormer and determine the correct dosage. They can also help you identify which parasites are present in your area and tailor your management accordingly.

Building a Complete Feeding System

A feeder is one component of a complete feeding system. To minimize fecal contamination, you need to think about the entire system, including water, mineral, and supplement delivery.

Water Troughs

Water is just as important as feed, and it can also be contaminated with feces. Use elevated water troughs that goats cannot stand in or defecate in. Clean water troughs regularly and position them away from the feeding area to reduce contamination. In winter, use heated water troughs to prevent freezing.

Mineral Feeders

Goats need minerals, and they will consume them from a mineral feeder. Use a covered mineral feeder that protects the minerals from rain and prevents goats from soiling them. Place the mineral feeder in a dry, clean area.

Grain Feeders

If you feed grain, use a trough or feeder that prevents goats from standing in it. Grain is highly palatable and goats will overeat if given the chance. Use a feeder that limits access and prevents waste.

Integrating the Feeding System

Position your feeders, water troughs, and mineral feeders in a logical arrangement that minimizes contamination. Keep the feeding area clean and dry. Use a base of gravel or concrete to improve drainage. Consider the prevailing wind direction and position the feeders so that dust and debris do not blow into the feed.

Advanced Design Ideas

For producers who want to take their feeder design to the next level, here are some advanced ideas.

The Hay Saver

A hay saver is a feeder with a grid of small openings that forces goats to eat slowly and reduces waste. The grid is typically made of metal bars or plastic mesh. Hay is packed into the feeder, and goats pull it through the small openings. This design is excellent for reducing waste, but it requires more labor to fill.

The Covered Bunk

A covered bunk is a hay bunk with a full roof that protects the hay from rain and snow. The roof can be hinged for easy filling. This design is ideal for outdoor feeding areas in wet climates. The key is to make the roof easy to open and close, and to ensure that the interior stays dry.

The Rotating Feeder

A rotating feeder is a circular feeder that can be rotated to bring a fresh section of hay to the front. This design is used in commercial operations to reduce labor. The feeder is filled from the center, and the outer sections rotate to present fresh hay. This is a complex design that requires careful engineering.

The Headlock Feeder

A headlock feeder uses individual headlocks that restrain each goat at its own feeding station. This design eliminates competition and ensures that each goat gets its fair share of feed. It also makes it easy to inspect and treat individual animals. Headlock feeders are more expensive and require careful sizing, but they are the gold standard for managing a breeding herd.

Troubleshooting Common Feeder Problems

Even with good design, problems can arise. Here are some common issues and how to solve them.

Goats Are Climbing on the Feeder

If goats are climbing on the feeder, the openings are too wide, or you have not provided a barrier to perching. Reduce the width of the openings, add a horizontal bar above the feeding area, or make the top of the feeder steeply pitched.

Goats Are Getting Their Heads Stuck

If a goat gets its head stuck, the opening is too small or the wrong shape. Enlarge the opening or change the angle of the slats. Check the goat for injuries and monitor it for signs of stress.

Hay Is Being Wasted

If hay is being wasted, the openings may be too large, allowing goats to pull out more than they can eat. Add a tray to catch dropped hay, or switch to a hay saver design.

Feed Is Becoming Moldy

If feed is becoming moldy, the feeder is not protecting it from moisture. Add a roof or cover, improve drainage around the feeder, or move the feeder to a drier location.

The Feeder Is Being Destroyed

If the feeder is being destroyed, the goats are chewing on it or rubbing against it. Use more durable materials, such as galvanized steel or heavy-duty plastic. Check for sharp edges or splinters that might be encouraging chewing.

Conclusion

Goat feeder design is one of the most important decisions you will make for your herd's health and productivity. A well-designed feeder keeps feed clean, reduces parasite transmission, and minimizes waste. It saves you money on feed, reduces the need for deworming, and keeps your goats healthier and more productive.

The principles are simple: elevate the feed, control the openings, use cleanable materials, make cleaning easy, and design for the social behavior of goats. Apply these principles to whatever feeder you build or buy, and you will see a significant improvement in your herd's health.

Start with your current setup. Look at each feeder and ask yourself: Is the feed elevated? Can goats climb in? Is it easy to clean? Is the area around it clean? Make the changes that are needed. You do not have to build a perfect system overnight. Even small improvements will make a difference.

Your goats will thank you with better health, better growth, and better production. And you will thank yourself with lower feed costs, fewer vet bills, and less time spent managing parasite problems.

Frequently Asked Questions

How high should a goat hay rack be off the ground?

The bottom of the hay rack should be at the shoulder height of your smallest goat. For standard-sized goats, that is about 20 to 24 inches. For smaller breeds like Nigerian Dwarf, use 16 to 18 inches. For large breeds like Boer, use 24 to 28 inches. The goal is to force the goat to reach up slightly to eat, which keeps its head well above ground-level contamination.

What is the best feeder design to reduce parasite transmission?

An elevated hay rack or hay bunk that keeps feed at or above the goat's shoulder height is the best design. The feed must be fully enclosed so goats cannot climb in or stand on it. Individual feeding stations reduce competition and ensure all goats get clean feed. Regular cleaning and rotation of the feeding area are also essential.

How often should I clean my goat feeders?

Clean your goat feeders at least once a week, and more often in warm, humid weather. Remove all old feed and debris, scrub the interior with a mild disinfectant, and rinse thoroughly. If you see manure in the feeder or signs of mold, clean it immediately.

Can I feed goats on the ground if I move the feeding area regularly?

Moving the feeding area helps, but ground feeding still exposes goats to manure and parasites. The soil in a feeding area becomes contaminated with parasite larvae that can survive for months. If you must feed on the ground, use a clean, dry area, feed small amounts that will be consumed quickly, and move the area frequently.

What is the best material for a goat hay rack?

Galvanized steel and food-grade plastic are the best materials because they are durable, easy to clean, and do not absorb moisture. Treated lumber can be used for the frame, but the interior surfaces that contact feed should be sealed with a food-safe finish or lined with plastic.

How much feeder space do I need per goat?

Provide at least 12 to 18 inches of feeder space per adult goat. For hay racks with individual openings, provide one opening per goat. This reduces competition and ensures that subordinate animals get enough to eat.

What should I do if a goat gets its head stuck in the feeder?

Stay calm and act quickly. Gently push the goat's head back through the opening, or carefully widen the opening if possible. Check the goat for injuries, especially around the neck and jaw. Monitor the goat for signs of stress or difficulty eating. If the goat is injured, call your veterinarian.

How do I know if my feeder is causing parasite problems?

If you are deworming more often than recommended, or if your goats consistently show signs of parasite infestation, your feeder may be contributing. Look for manure in the feeder, signs of goats climbing in the feeder, and feed that is contaminated or moldy. Review your feeder design and management and make changes as needed.

Related Farming Guides

This section will be populated with links to related farming guides on goat health, parasite control, fencing, and facilities management. Please check back for updates.

Related Clinical & Scientific Guides

• Goat Breeding Season Planning: Timing, Nutrition, and Health Checks
• Alfalfa Hay for Goats: Feeding Decisions and Mineral Context
• Goat Fiber Production: Cashmere and Mohair Management

References

• American Consortium for Small Ruminant Parasite Control (ACSRPC): https://www.wormx.info/
• USDA APHIS Goat Health: https://www.aphis.usda.gov/livestock-poultry-disease/sheep-goats
• FAO Sheep and Goat Production: https://www.fao.org/animal-production/en/
• FAO Animal Production and Health: https://www.fao.org/animal-production/en/
• WOAH (World Organisation for Animal Health): https://www.woah.org/en/home/

This article is educational and is not a substitute for veterinary diagnosis, treatment, public-health guidance, or regulatory reporting.