# Why Is My Ball Python Rubbing Its Face? If your ball python is rubbing its face against the glass, hide, or substrate, it is usually trying to loosen dead skin before a shed or testing its enclosure for a way out. Sometimes the cause is more serious, such as mites, a skin wound, or a respiratory infection. This article is educational and is not a substitute for veterinary diagnosis or treatment. ## Quick Answer - Face rubbing for a day or two before shedding is normal. The snake is loosening the old skin around its nose and jaw. - Constant rubbing, especially at corners or the lid, often means the enclosure is too small, too hot, too cold, or too bare. - Mites look like tiny dark specks moving on the skin, around the eyes, or in the water bowl. They cause intense itching and rubbing. - Facial swelling, open sores, wheezing, or bubbles around the mouth are not normal and need a veterinarian. - Do not pull stuck skin off the face or eyes yourself. Raise humidity and let a veterinarian handle retained eye caps. ## What Face Rubbing Looks Like and What Is Normal Ball pythons rub their faces in a few different ways, and the motion tells you a lot. A snake getting ready to shed will press its snout into the side of the enclosure, drag its head along a rough surface, or push its nose into damp substrate. This is called the "shedding rub" and it happens most often in the days right before the old skin comes off. The eyes go cloudy or blue first, then clear again, and then the snake sheds. During that window, some face rubbing is expected. A snake trying to escape does something similar but more persistent. It pushes upward at the lid, noses along the seams, and circles the same corner over and over. This can go on for hours and often happens at night when ball pythons are most active. A snake with itchy or painful skin rubs hard and often. It may scrape its face against the water bowl, the hide, or the glass until the scales look raw. That kind of rubbing is a signal to look closer. ## Why Is My Ball Python Rubbing Its Face? The Main Causes | Cause | Typical clues | How urgent | |---|---|---| | Pre-shed behavior | Cloudy eyes, dull skin, rubbing for 1 to 2 days, full shed follows | Not urgent | | Escape attempt or stress | Pushing at lid and corners, pacing, rubbing at night, new enclosure or recent change | Not urgent, fix housing | | Mites or ticks | Tiny dark specks, specks in water bowl, head shaking, soaking, raw chin | See a vet soon | | Injury or skin infection | Swelling, crusts, open sores, discolored scales, bleeding | See a vet soon | | Respiratory disease | Wheezing, open-mouth breathing, mucus, bubbles, raised head | Urgent, same day | ### Pre-Shed Behavior This is the most common reason for face rubbing and the least worrying. As the old skin loosens, the snake works it forward from the head. Rubbing the snout helps separate the skin at the nose and lips. You can support a normal shed by keeping humidity in the right range and giving your snake something rough to rub against, like a cork bark hide or a textured water bowl. If the shed comes off in one piece, the rubbing did its job. If the shed comes off in patches, or if skin stays stuck around the eyes and tail tip, that is a husbandry problem. Retained eye caps and stuck shed need gentle handling and sometimes veterinary help. You can read more about that in this guide to [stuck shed and retained eye caps](/knowledge/veterinary-medicine/exotic-small-animals/ball-python-care-stuck-shed-retained-eye-caps-removal-guide). ### Escape Attempts and Stress Ball pythons are quiet, shy snakes, but they are still snakes. If something in the enclosure feels wrong, they will test the walls. Common triggers include: - Enclosure too small for the snake's length - Hot spot too hot or cool side too cold - No hide on one or both ends - Too much open space with no cover - New enclosure, new substrate, or a recent move - Loud vibration or traffic near the tank A stressed snake often rubs at the lid and corners at night, then hides all day. Fix the temperature gradient, add snug hides, and cover three sides of the enclosure. If the rubbing stops within a few days, the setup was the problem. ### Mites and Ticks External parasites are a real cause of face rubbing in captive pythons. Mites and ticks bite the skin, cause itching and irritation, and can spread disease. In one case report, a captive African rock python with a severe tick infestation showed facial swelling, incomplete shedding, loss of appetite, and lethargy. Treatment involved physically removing the ticks, giving ivermectin by mouth, and improving enclosure hygiene, and the snake resumed feeding and shed normally within five days [1]. That report was about ticks, but the lesson applies to mites too. Both feed on your snake and both cause skin irritation that leads to rubbing. Check for mites by looking at: - The skin around the eyes, chin, and vent - The water bowl, where mites often drown - Your hands after handling the snake - Paper towel substrate, which shows dark specks clearly If you find mites, treat the snake and the entire enclosure. Mites hide in cage furniture, seams, and substrate, so cleaning only the snake will not solve it. ### Injury and Skin Infection A snake that rubs hard enough can damage its own face. You may see missing scales, a raw patch on the chin, or a small sore at the tip of the snout. Skin infections can also start on their own. Reptile fungal infections caused by Nannizziopsis species and related fungi can produce raised, yellow to brown crusts on the skin. In severe cases these progress to ulcerative dermatitis and can spread deeper into the body [2][3]. These infections are seen in captive reptiles and can become serious if untreated [3]. Any crust, swelling, or open wound on the face deserves a veterinary exam. Do not apply human creams or ointments to a snake without veterinary guidance. ### Respiratory Disease A ball python with a respiratory infection may rub its face because it is uncomfortable, congested, or trying to clear its nose. Watch for: - Wheezing, clicking, or whistling sounds - Open-mouth breathing - Mucus or bubbles around the nostrils or mouth - Raised head posture to breathe easier - Loss of appetite and lethargy Respiratory infections in ball pythons are common when humidity is too low, temperatures are too cool, or the enclosure is dirty. They can worsen quickly. If you see any of these signs, contact a reptile veterinarian the same day. More detail is available in this article on [ball python respiratory infection symptoms and antibiotics](/knowledge/veterinary-medicine/exotic-reptile-care/ball-python-respiratory-infection-wheezing-mouth-rot-and-antibiotics). ## Red Flags That Make It an Emergency Most face rubbing can wait for a routine visit. Some signs cannot. Call an emergency or exotic veterinarian right away if your ball python has: - Open-mouth breathing or gasping - Bubbles, foam, or pus around the mouth or nose - Severe facial swelling, especially with lethargy - A wound that is bleeding or has a foul smell - Sudden collapse, tremors, or unresponsiveness - Repeated rubbing that has left the face raw and bleeding These signs point to infection, injury, or another serious problem. A snake that cannot breathe normally or is bleeding from the face needs care now, not tomorrow. ## Safe Things You Can Do at Home While You Wait While you wait for your appointment, keep changes simple and low stress. **Check the basics.** Confirm your warm side, cool side, and humidity with a digital gauge. Ball pythons need a proper temperature gradient and moderate to high humidity. Wrong numbers cause shedding problems and respiratory issues. **Look for mites.** Wipe the snake gently with a white paper towel and check the water bowl. If you see moving specks, assume mites and plan to treat the enclosure. **Do not pick at the face.** Never pull stuck skin, crusts, or eye caps off. You can tear the skin or damage the eye. Raise humidity instead and let the snake work it loose. **Keep handling to a minimum.** Stress makes rubbing worse. Handle only when you need to inspect or clean. **Clean the enclosure.** Remove waste daily, replace dirty water, and wash the water bowl. Good hygiene reduces parasite and bacteria loads. **Do not use random medications.** Do not use mite sprays, ointments, or human antibiotics without veterinary direction. Some products are toxic to reptiles. **Keep a simple log.** Note when the rubbing started, how often it happens, what the snake is rubbing against, and any other signs like wheezing or appetite changes. This helps your veterinarian. ## What the Veterinarian Will Check and Test A reptile veterinarian will start with a full history and a hands-on exam. Expect questions about: - Enclosure size, temperatures, and humidity - Substrate and cleaning routine - Recent shedding and appetite - New additions to your collection - Any mites seen on the snake or in the cage The physical exam focuses on the face, mouth, eyes, nostrils, and skin. The vet will look for swelling, crusts, wounds, and parasites. They may use a magnifier or a microscope to check skin scrapings for mites. Possible tests include: - Skin scraping or tape prep to identify mites or fungal organisms - Blood work to check for infection or inflammation - Culture or PCR testing if a fungal skin infection is suspected - Imaging if deeper tissue or respiratory disease is a concern Treatment depends on the cause. Parasite infestations may need mechanical removal plus medication, as in the tick case where ivermectin was given by mouth and husbandry was improved [1]. Fungal skin disease may need topical and systemic treatment, and severe cases can spread beyond the skin [2][3]. Your veterinarian will calculate any drug dose from your snake's weight and health. Never guess a dose on your own. ## Prevention and Monitoring Most face rubbing problems come back to husbandry. Get the basics right and you prevent a lot of trouble. - Keep the warm side and cool side in the correct ranges for ball pythons. - Maintain humidity high enough for clean sheds, especially during the blue phase. - Provide at least two snug hides, one on each end. - Add rough surfaces like cork bark for shedding. - Quarantine any new snake for at least 60 to 90 days before introducing it to your collection. - Check new snakes for mites before they go into your main enclosure. - Clean and disinfect cage furniture regularly. - Watch for early signs of shedding and respiratory trouble. If your snake rubs its face only around shed time and sheds completely, you are likely fine. If rubbing becomes constant, if the face looks damaged, or if breathing changes, get help. ## Limitations and When to Contact a Veterinarian This article cannot diagnose your snake. Face rubbing has several possible causes, and only a veterinarian who examines your ball python can tell you which one is happening. Contact a veterinarian the same day if you see wheezing, open-mouth breathing, mucus, facial swelling, or a wound on the face. Treat these as urgent. Go to an emergency clinic now if your snake is gasping, bleeding, collapsed, or has severe swelling with lethargy. Schedule a routine visit if the rubbing is new, mild, and you cannot find mites or other obvious problems. A routine exam can catch parasites or early skin disease before they get worse. Individual cases need a veterinarian. When in doubt, call. ## Frequently Asked Questions ### Is face rubbing always a sign of shedding? No. Shedding is the most common reason, but escape attempts, mites, injury, and respiratory disease can all cause the same behavior. Look at the whole picture, including eye color, skin condition, breathing, and appetite. ### How do I know if my ball python has mites? Mites look like tiny dark specks that move. Check the skin around the eyes and chin, the water bowl, and your hands after handling. If you see specks in the water bowl, treat the snake and the entire enclosure. ### Can I just raise humidity and wait? You can raise humidity if the rubbing is clearly tied to shedding and the snake looks otherwise healthy. If you see swelling, sores, wheezing, or constant rubbing, waiting is not safe. Call a veterinarian. ### Should I pull off stuck skin around the eyes? Never pull stuck skin or eye caps off yourself. You can damage the eye or tear the skin. Raise humidity, keep the enclosure clean, and let a veterinarian remove retained eye caps if needed. ### When should I worry about face rubbing? Worry if the rubbing is constant, if the face looks raw or swollen, or if your snake has trouble breathing. Also worry if your snake stops eating or becomes lethargic. Those signs mean a veterinary visit, not a wait-and-see approach. ## Related Articles - [Ball Python Respiratory Infection: Wheezing, Mouth Rot and Antibiotics](/knowledge/veterinary-medicine/exotic-reptile-care/ball-python-respiratory-infection-wheezing-mouth-rot-and-antibiotics) - [Ball Python Respiratory Infections: Symptoms, Humidity Control, and Veterinary Care](/knowledge/veterinary-medicine/reptile-care/ball-python-respiratory-infection-guide) - [Ball Python Care: Stuck shed retained eye caps removal guide](/knowledge/veterinary-medicine/exotic-small-animals/ball-python-care-stuck-shed-retained-eye-caps-removal-guide) - [Ball Python Care: Respiratory Infection Symptoms & Antibiotic Protocol](/knowledge/veterinary-medicine/exotic-small-animals/ball-python-care-respiratory-infection-symptoms-antibiotic-protocol) - [Ball Python Stuck Shed Help](/knowledge/veterinary-medicine/reptile-care/ball-python-stuck-shed) - [Why Is My Ball Python Opening Its Mouth? Causes](/knowledge/veterinary-medicine/reptile-care/ball-python-open-mouth) - [Why Is My Ball Python Drooling? Causes and Red Flags](/knowledge/veterinary-medicine/reptile-care/ball-python-drooling-causes) - [Why Is My Ball Python Striking or Biting Me?](/knowledge/veterinary-medicine/reptile-care/ball-python-striking-biting) ## References 1. [Severe Tick Infestation and Haemogregarina spp. Infection in a Captive African Rock Python (Python sebae): A Clinical and Parasitological Case from Nigeria](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/42376688/). Veterinary medicine and science, 2026. 2. [Dermatomycosis caused by Paranannizziopsis australasiensis in five tuatara (Sphenodon punctatus) and a coastal bearded dragon (Pogona barbata) in a zoological collection in New Zealand](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/27074995/). New Zealand veterinary journal, 2016. 3. [Nannizziopsis pluriseptata-Associated Skin Lesions in a Shingleback Skink (Tiliqua rugosa) and Spiny-Tailed Skinks (Egernia depressa) in Australia](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/41745956/). Veterinary sciences, 2026. ## Further Reading - [Merck Veterinary Manual: Reptiles](https://www.merckvetmanual.com/all-other-pets/reptiles) - [American Veterinary Medical Association: Pet Care](https://www.avma.org/resources-tools/pet-owners/petcare)