# Swine Barn Heating Systems for Cold Weather ## Key Takeaways - Newborn piglets require a critical floor-level temperature of 90-95°F for the first week, decreasing by approximately 5°F weekly thereafter, necessitating zone heating to maintain this microclimate while keeping sows at 60-70°F. - Common supplemental heat sources for piglets include radiant heaters, heat lamps, and heated mats, with forced air furnaces and tube heaters being suitable for nursery and grow-finish barns, emphasizing positive pressure ventilation with heated incoming air. - Fuel sources like propane and natural gas are generally more cost-effective for operation than electricity, though electric heat offers simpler installation; accurate system sizing based on heat loss calculations, including ventilation air, is crucial for efficiency. - Effective heating is intrinsically linked with ventilation to manage moisture (aiming for 50-70% relative humidity) and airborne contaminants, preventing drafts at pig level which significantly increases heat loss. - Monitoring temperature at pig level (not human eye level) and maintaining detailed records of temperature, fuel usage, and pig behavior are essential for proactive management and preventing cold stress-related production losses and disease. - Emergency preparedness, including backup generators, spare heaters, and alarm systems, is critical to mitigate catastrophic losses during power outages or equipment failures in cold weather. --- Cold weather creates one of the most predictable and avoidable sources of production loss in swine operations. When temperatures drop, pigs redirect energy from growth and immune function toward maintaining body heat. Piglets are especially vulnerable because they are born with minimal body fat and an immature temperature regulation system. A well designed heating system does more than keep pigs comfortable. It protects feed conversion, reduces mortality, prevents disease outbreaks, and lowers the total cost per pig weaned or finished. This guide is for swine producers, farm managers, and employees who plan, operate, or maintain heating systems in farrowing, nursery, and finishing barns. It covers the principles of swine barn heating, equipment options, system sizing, installation, operation, maintenance, and troubleshooting. You will also find practical guidance for monitoring barn conditions, keeping records, and knowing when to call a veterinarian or extension agent for help. ## At a Glance - Newborn piglets need a floor level temperature of 90 to 95 degrees Fahrenheit for the first week of life. The temperature can drop about 5 degrees per week after that. - Sows prefer 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Zone heating is essential so the sow and piglets each get their own temperature. - Radiant heaters, heat lamps, and heated mats are the most common supplemental heat sources for piglets in farrowing crates. - Forced air furnaces and tube heaters work well for nursery and grow finish barns. Positive pressure ventilation with heated incoming air is the standard approach. - Propane and natural gas are the most common fuels. Electric heat is simpler to install but usually costs more to operate. - Never rely on heating alone. Ventilation must work with heating to remove moisture, ammonia, and carbon dioxide while keeping drafts off pigs. - Monitor temperature at pig level, not at human eye level. A temperature reading taken 5 feet off the floor can be 10 to 15 degrees warmer than what a piglet feels. - Clean and inspect all heating equipment before the cold season starts. A dirty heat exchanger or a failing thermostat causes most cold weather heating failures. - Keep backup plans ready. A generator, spare heaters, and an alarm system can prevent a total loss event during a power outage. ## Why Swine Barn Heating Matters Pigs have a narrow thermal comfort zone. The zone is the range of temperatures where a pig does not need to expend extra energy to stay warm or cool down. Below that zone, the pig must increase its metabolic rate to generate body heat. That costs feed energy that would otherwise go into muscle growth, milk production, or immune response. The lower critical temperature is the point where a pig must start burning extra energy for warmth. For a newborn piglet, the lower critical temperature is around 90 degrees Fahrenheit. For a 150 pound grower pig, it drops to about 60 degrees. For a 250 pound finishing pig, it is around 50 degrees. These numbers shift with draft, floor type, bedding, and whether pigs are in groups or alone. When pigs are cold they huddle, shiver, and reduce activity. Feed intake rises but growth slows because the extra energy goes to heat production. Feed conversion gets worse. In farrowing barns, chilled piglets are slower to find the udder and nurse. They are more likely to be laid on by the sow because they stay close to her for warmth. Hypothermia is a leading cause of preweaning mortality and it makes piglets more susceptible to scours and other diseases. Cold stress also affects breeding animals. Gilts and sows that are chronically cold eat more, produce less milk, and may have delayed return to estrus. A chilled boar produces lower quality semen. The effects of cold weather can linger for weeks after temperatures return to normal. Heating is not optional for most operations. It is a production input that pays for itself through lower mortality, faster growth, and better feed efficiency. The goal is not to heat the entire barn to one uniform temperature. The goal is to provide the right temperature in each zone where pigs live, rest, and nurse. ## Understanding Heat Loss in Swine Barns Before you can choose a heating system you need to understand where heat goes. Heat leaves a barn through conduction, convection, and air exchange. Conduction is heat transfer through solid materials. Walls, ceilings, floors, and doors all conduct heat to the outside. The rate depends on the insulation level and the temperature difference between inside and out. A poorly insulated barn loses heat through every surface. Concrete floors are especially conductive. A piglet lying on bare concrete loses body heat rapidly even when the air temperature is warm. Convection is heat transfer through moving air. Warm air rises and escapes through ceiling leaks, ridge vents, and exhaust fans. Cold air enters through cracks around doors, windows, and wall joints. Drafts at pig level are the most damaging because they strip heat from the pig's body surface. Air exchange is the deliberate movement of air through the barn for ventilation. Minimum ventilation removes moisture, ammonia, hydrogen sulfide, carbon dioxide, and other gases produced by pigs and manure. In cold weather, incoming air must be warmed to avoid chilling pigs and to keep condensation from forming on walls and ceilings. Heating and ventilation are two halves of the same system. You cannot manage one without the other. Moisture is a major heat loss factor. Pigs produce large amounts of water vapor through breathing and manure. A 150 pound pig generates about a gallon of water vapor per day. If that moisture condenses on cold surfaces it damages the building and creates conditions where pathogens thrive. The heating system must work with ventilation to keep relative humidity between 50 and 70 percent. ## Types of Heating Systems for Swine Barns There is no single best heating system for all swine operations. The right choice depends on barn type, pig age, fuel availability, electricity cost, building insulation, and your labor situation. Most operations use a combination of a primary heating system and supplemental zone heaters. ### Forced Air Furnaces Forced air furnaces are the most common primary heating system in modern swine barns. A furnace burns propane, natural gas, or fuel oil to heat air that is then blown into the barn through ductwork or positive pressure ventilation tubes. The heated air mixes with barn air and raises the overall temperature. Forced air systems work well for nursery, grow finish, and gestation barns where the goal is to maintain a uniform temperature across a large space. They are less effective for farrowing barns because the temperature needs of the sow and piglets are so different. A furnace set to 90 degrees for piglets will stress the sow. A furnace set to 65 degrees for the sow will chill the piglets. Furnaces come in different efficiency ratings. Standard units run around 80 percent efficiency. High efficiency condensing units can reach 95 percent or better. The higher upfront cost of a high efficiency unit can pay back quickly in cold climates where the furnace runs for months at a time. Installation requires careful attention to combustion air and exhaust venting. A furnace that does not get enough combustion air can produce carbon monoxide, which is deadly in an enclosed barn. Exhaust vents must be kept clear of snow and ice. Follow the manufacturer's clearances and have the system inspected before each heating season. ### Radiant Tube Heaters Radiant tube heaters are a good choice for farrowing and nursery barns because they heat objects and surfaces directly rather than warming all the air in the barn. A radiant tube heater consists of a burner at one end, a metal tube that runs overhead, and a reflector that directs heat downward. The tube glows hot and emits infrared energy that warms the floor and the pigs beneath it. Radiant heaters put heat where the pigs are. The air temperature at human head level stays cooler, which keeps the sow more comfortable. Piglets on the floor still get the warmth they need. This zoned approach reduces total fuel use compared to heating the entire barn to piglet temperature. Radiant heaters are also useful in grow finish barns where pigs are grouped in pens. A single tube heater can cover a pen area and give pigs a warm zone to lie in without overheating the entire barn. The main drawbacks are upfront cost and the need for careful placement. Radiant heaters must be mounted at the correct height and angle to cover the target zone. Too high and the heat dissipates before reaching the pigs. Too low and the heater becomes a burn hazard for pigs and workers. Follow the manufacturer's mounting instructions and keep a clearance of at least 18 inches from combustible materials. ### Heat Lamps Heat lamps are the simplest and most widely used supplemental heat source for piglets in farrowing crates. A typical setup uses a 125 or 250 watt infrared bulb in a reflector fixture suspended over the creep area of the crate. The lamp creates a warm zone where piglets can lie without being near the sow. Heat lamps are cheap to buy and easy to install. You can move them to follow piglets as they grow or to adjust for changing barn temperatures. They give piglets immediate access to heat the moment they are born. The drawbacks are significant. Heat lamps are inefficient because much of the heat goes into the air above the piglets rather than into the pigs themselves. They create fire hazards if they fall or come in contact with bedding, manure, or dust. Bulbs burn out and need regular replacement. In a large farrowing room with 20 or more crates, the electric load from heat lamps can be substantial. Use a heat lamp only with a secure mounting system. Chain or cable suspension is better than a cord draped over a crate divider. Use a bulb guard to protect the bulb from breakage. Keep the lamp at the height recommended by the manufacturer, usually 18 to 24 inches above the floor. Check each lamp daily for damage, dust buildup, and proper positioning. ### Heated Mats and Floor Heat Heated mats and in floor heating provide warmth from below, which matches how piglets naturally seek heat. A piglet that is warm on its belly can tolerate cooler air temperatures because less body heat is lost through the floor. Heated mats are rubber or plastic pads with embedded electric heating elements. They are placed in the creep area of a farrowing crate and plugged into an outlet. The mat surface stays around 90 to 100 degrees Fahrenheit. Piglets lie on the mat and stay warm. Mats are more energy efficient than heat lamps because the heat goes directly into the piglets rather than the surrounding air. They also reduce the fire risk associated with lamps. The main drawback is that piglets must be on the mat to benefit. A piglet that wanders off the mat into a cold corner of the crate can still become chilled. In floor heating is common in new farrowing barns. Hot water pipes or electric cables are embedded in the concrete floor of the creep area. A boiler or electric heater warms the water and circulates it through the pipes. The floor radiates heat upward and keeps the creep area warm. In floor heat is the most comfortable and energy efficient option for piglets, but it is expensive to install and difficult to modify once the concrete is poured. It works best in new construction or major remodels. It also takes time to warm up and cool down, so you need to manage the system proactively as weather changes. ### Space Heaters and Unit Heaters Unit heaters are self contained gas or electric heaters mounted on walls or ceilings. They use a fan to blow air across a heat exchanger and into the barn. Unit heaters are common in gestation and grow finish barns where a single unit can serve a room or a section of a barn. Electric unit heaters are simple and require no venting. They are 100 percent efficient at converting electricity to heat. However, electricity is almost always more expensive per unit of heat than propane or natural gas. Use electric unit heaters only in small spaces or where gas is not available. Gas unit heaters are more economical to operate but require venting for combustion gases. They also need a fresh air supply for combustion. A gas unit heater that is not properly vented can introduce carbon monoxide into the barn. ### Radiant Floor Heating for Whole Barns Some producers use radiant floor heating for the entire barn rather than just the creep areas. Hot water pipes run through the entire concrete floor. This provides uniform warmth from below and eliminates cold floor drafts. Radiant floor heating is the most comfortable system for pigs and the most energy efficient in a well insulated building. But it is expensive. The boiler, piping, and controls add significant cost to a new barn. It also responds slowly to temperature changes, so you cannot quickly raise the temperature during a cold snap. This system is most practical for farrowing and nursery barns where pigs are on solid floors. It is less useful in grow finish barns with slatted floors because the pipes cannot be embedded in the slats. ## Choosing a Fuel Source Propane and natural gas are the standard fuels for swine barn heating in most regions. Both are clean burning, reliable, and widely available. Natural gas is usually cheaper per unit of heat than propane but requires a pipeline connection. Propane is stored on site in tanks and delivered by truck, which gives you flexibility in rural locations. Electricity is the simplest fuel to use because it requires no storage tanks, no combustion, and no venting. Electric heaters are also the cheapest to buy and install. The operating cost is the problem. Electricity costs two to four times more than gas for the same amount of heat in most areas. Use electric heat for small supplemental loads such as heat lamps, mats, and small unit heaters. Fuel oil and waste oil heaters are less common but still found in some older operations. They are cheaper per unit of heat than electricity but require more maintenance and produce more emissions. If you are planning a new system, gas or propane is almost always the best choice. Compare fuel costs using the cost per million BTUs of usable heat, not just the price per gallon or per kilowatt hour. Include the efficiency of the heater in the calculation. A high efficiency gas furnace may cost more to buy but less to operate than a cheaper standard unit over the course of a winter. ## Sizing a Heating System An undersized heater runs constantly and still cannot keep the barn warm. An oversized heater cycles on and off frequently, which wastes fuel and creates uneven temperatures. Correct sizing requires a heat loss calculation for your specific barn. The basic calculation starts with the total square footage of the barn and the desired temperature rise. For example, if you want to maintain 70 degrees inside and the coldest expected outside temperature is 0 degrees, you need a 70 degree temperature rise. Multiply the square footage by a heat loss factor based on the insulation level of the building. A well insulated barn with 4 inches of foam insulation in the walls and 6 inches in the ceiling has a heat loss of roughly 8 to 12 BTUs per square foot per degree of temperature difference. A poorly insulated barn with minimal insulation can lose 20 to 30 BTUs per square foot per degree. For a 30 by 50 foot farrowing room with 1,500 square feet and good insulation, the heat loss at a 70 degree temperature rise would be roughly 1,500 times 10 times 70, or about 1,050,000 BTUs per hour. That number seems large, but it is the maximum heat loss on the coldest day. The actual heating load is usually much lower because the barn has pigs producing heat and the outside temperature is rarely at the design low. A professional HVAC contractor or agricultural engineer can do a proper heat loss calculation for your barn. This is worth the cost before you buy a new furnace or boiler. An oversized unit wastes money every time it cycles. An undersized unit leaves you cold on the nights you need heat the most. Do not forget ventilation air in the calculation. Minimum ventilation in cold weather brings in cold outside air that must be heated. The ventilation rate depends on the number and size of pigs in the barn. A typical minimum ventilation rate for a nursery is 2 to 5 cubic feet per minute per pig. For grow finish pigs it is 10 to 20 cubic feet per minute per pig. Heating cold incoming air can account for 30 to 50 percent of the total heating load in a well insulated barn. ## Supplemental Heat for Piglets The farrowing barn is where heating matters most. A newborn piglet loses body heat rapidly in the first hours after birth. The piglet is wet, has almost no body fat, and cannot shiver effectively for the first day of life. Without supplemental heat, the piglet's body temperature can drop to dangerous levels within an hour. The creep area is the zone in the farrowing crate where piglets can get away from the sow and access supplemental heat. The goal is to create a microclimate at floor level that is 90 to 95 degrees for newborn piglets. The sow's zone should stay at 60 to 70 degrees. Use a combination of heat sources to create the creep zone. A heat lamp or radiant heater over the creep area plus a heated mat on the floor gives piglets both radiant heat from above and conductive heat from below. This combination works better than either source alone because it covers the piglet from two directions. Position the heat source so the entire creep area is covered. A common mistake is to hang a heat lamp too high, which spreads the heat over too large an area and leaves the piglets cold. Another mistake is to hang the lamp too low, which creates a hot spot where piglets can burn themselves or refuse to lie. Check the temperature at piglet level with a thermometer placed on the floor of the creep area. Adjust the heat source height or wattage until the floor level temperature matches the target for the piglets' age. Recheck the temperature after any change in outside weather or ventilation settings. As piglets grow, their temperature requirement drops. A one week old piglet needs 85 to 90 degrees. A two week old piglet needs 80 to 85 degrees. By weaning at three to four weeks, piglets are comfortable at 75 to 80 degrees. Reduce heat output as the litter ages to save energy and to keep the sow comfortable. ## Nursery Barn Heating Nursery barns take pigs from weaning until about 50 pounds. Weaned pigs are stressed by the move from the farrowing crate to a new environment. They also lose the sow's body heat and the supplemental heat of the farrowing crate. The nursery must provide a warm, draft free environment to help pigs through this transition. Start the nursery at 85 to 90 degrees for the first week after weaning. This is close to the temperature the pigs experienced in the farrowing crate. Reduce the temperature by 2 to 3 degrees per week as the pigs grow. By the time pigs leave the nursery at 50 pounds, the barn can be at 70 to 75 degrees. Set the temperature based on the pigs' behavior, not just the thermometer. Pigs that are huddled together in piles are cold. Pigs that are spread out and lying away from each other are too warm. Pigs that are lying calmly on their sides with occasional movement are comfortable. Use this behavioral check daily and adjust the thermostat accordingly. Nursery barns need a primary heating system that can maintain the target temperature even on the coldest nights. A forced air furnace or radiant tube heaters are the most common choices. The system must also work with the ventilation system to provide fresh air without creating drafts. Use zone heating in nursery pens to give pigs a warm area within a cooler room. A heat lamp or small radiant heater over one corner of each pen lets pigs choose their comfort level. This is especially useful during the first week after weaning when pigs are adjusting to the new environment. ## Grow Finish Barn Heating Grow finish barns house pigs from about 50 pounds to market weight. These pigs produce significant body heat on their own. A group of 50 finishing pigs in a pen can raise the room temperature by 10 to 15 degrees above the outside temperature. The heating system in a grow finish barn is often needed only during cold snaps and for young pigs. The target temperature for grow finish pigs depends on weight. A 50 pound pig needs about 70 degrees. A 100 pound pig needs about 65 degrees. A 200 pound pig needs about 55 degrees. The pigs' own body heat can maintain these temperatures in most climates except during prolonged cold weather. The heating system in a grow finish barn should be designed to maintain a minimum temperature rather than to provide all the heat the pigs need. A forced air furnace or radiant tube heaters sized for about half the total heat load is often sufficient. The pigs provide the rest of the heat. Pay attention to floor type and bedding in grow finish barns. Pigs on concrete floors lose more heat than pigs on deep bedding. In cold climates, adding straw or other bedding gives pigs a warm layer to lie on and reduces the heating load. Bedding also gives pigs a way to nest and conserve body heat. ## Ventilation and Heating Integration Heating and ventilation must be managed as one system. A barn that is tightly sealed to save heat will trap moisture and gases. A barn that is over ventilated will be cold and drafty no matter how much heat you add. Minimum ventilation is the baseline airflow needed to remove moisture and gases in cold weather. The ventilation rate should be set to keep relative humidity between 50 and 70 percent and ammonia below 10 parts per million. In a well insulated barn, the minimum ventilation rate is usually 1 to 3 air changes per hour. The heating system must be able to warm the incoming ventilation air to the target temperature. In a positive pressure ventilation system, the furnace heats air before it enters the barn through a ventilation tube. This preheated air mixes with barn air and raises the temperature without creating cold drafts. In a negative pressure system, exhaust fans pull air out of the barn and fresh air enters through inlets. The heating system warms the air inside the barn. Cold air entering through the inlets can create drafts if the inlets are not positioned to mix the incoming air with warm barn air before it reaches the pigs. Check the ventilation system before each heating season. Clean fan blades, shutters, and inlets. Replace worn belts and bearings. Test the thermostat and controller functions. A ventilation system that fails in cold weather can cause condensation, ammonia buildup, and respiratory disease even if the heating system works perfectly. Set the heating and ventilation controllers to work together. The heating system should come on when the temperature drops below the set point. The ventilation system should increase airflow when the temperature rises above the set point. This creates a dead band between heating and ventilation where neither system runs, which saves energy and prevents temperature swings. ## Insulation and Heat Retention Insulation is the most cost effective improvement you can make to a swine barn. A well insulated barn holds heat longer, requires less heating fuel, and has fewer condensation problems. Insulation also makes the heating system more effective because the heat stays where the pigs are. The recommended insulation levels for a swine barn depend on your climate. In cold regions, use R 30 to R 40 in the ceiling and R 15 to R 25 in the walls. In milder climates, lower levels may be acceptable. Your local extension office or agricultural engineer can recommend levels for your area. Check the condition of existing insulation. Insulation that has settled, gotten wet, or been damaged by rodents loses its effectiveness. Replace damaged sections and add insulation to areas that lack it. Pay special attention to the ceiling, which is where most heat escapes. Seal air leaks around doors, windows, and wall joints. Use caulk and spray foam to close gaps. Install weather stripping on doors. A barn that is tight enough to control airflow through the ventilation system is easier to heat than a barn with uncontrolled leaks. Use curtains or insulated panels on sidewalls in naturally ventilated barns. Curtains let you close the barn during cold weather and reduce heat loss. Open the curtains during mild weather to allow natural ventilation. Automatic curtain controllers can adjust the curtain position based on temperature and wind. ## Monitoring Barn Temperature Temperature monitoring is essential for good heating management. You cannot manage what you do not measure. A simple thermometer in the barn is better than nothing, but a proper monitoring system gives you the information you need to make good decisions. Place thermometers at pig level, not at human eye level. A piglet on the floor feels a temperature that can be 10 to 15 degrees cooler than the air at your face. Hang thermometers at the height of the pigs' backs in each room or pen. Check the temperature daily and record it. Use a maximum minimum thermometer to track temperature swings over 24 hours. This tells you whether the heating system is maintaining consistent temperatures or allowing wide swings. Wide swings stress pigs and increase the risk of disease. Install a controller or thermostat that can manage both heating and ventilation. Modern controllers can maintain a target temperature with a small dead band, run the ventilation fans at variable speeds, and alert you when temperatures go out of range. The investment in a good controller pays for itself through better pig performance and lower energy use. Consider a remote monitoring system that sends alerts to your phone. These systems can notify you when the barn temperature drops below a set point, when the power goes out, or when a heater fails. A remote alarm can be the difference between a minor problem and a total loss event. ## Recordkeeping for Heating Management Keep a daily log of barn temperatures, heater settings, fuel use, and pig condition. This record helps you spot problems early and plan for future improvements. It also helps you document conditions if you need to work with a veterinarian or extension agent on a health issue. Record the following information daily: - Outside temperature and weather conditions - Barn temperature at pig level for each room - Heater settings and run times - Fuel deliveries and usage - Ventilation settings and fan operation - Pig behavior and condition - Any equipment problems or repairs Review the records weekly to identify trends. Is the barn temperature dropping as outside temperatures fall? Is fuel use higher than expected? Are pigs showing signs of cold stress even though the thermometer reads normal? Use the records to make adjustments before small problems become large ones. Track heating costs per pig or per barn over the winter. Compare your costs to previous years and to similar operations in your area. If your costs are significantly higher, look for ways to improve insulation, adjust ventilation, or upgrade equipment. ## Common Heating Mistakes Several mistakes show up repeatedly in swine barns with heating problems. Recognizing these mistakes can save you money and prevent pig losses. Setting the thermostat too high is a common error. Producers often set the barn temperature for the youngest or smallest pig in the barn, which overheats larger pigs and wastes fuel. Set the temperature for the average pig in the barn and provide supplemental heat zones for young or small pigs. Ignoring drafts is another mistake. A barn can be warm at the thermostat but still have cold drafts at pig level. Cold air entering through cracks or poorly positioned inlets strips heat from pigs even when the overall temperature is adequate. Seal leaks and adjust inlet positioning to eliminate drafts. Neglecting maintenance leads to heater failures at the worst possible time. A furnace with a dirty filter, a clogged burner, or a failing thermostat will eventually quit. Inspect and service all heating equipment before the cold season and again mid season. Using undersized heaters is common in older barns that were built before the current pig inventory. A heater that was adequate for 50 pigs cannot handle 100 pigs. Recalculate the heating load whenever you change the pig inventory or barn use. Failing to provide backup heat is a serious risk. A power outage or heater failure in cold weather can kill pigs within hours. Have a backup plan that includes a generator, spare heaters, or a plan to move pigs to another facility. ## Emergency Heating and Power Outages Power outages are the most dangerous event for a swine barn in winter. Without electricity, ventilation fans stop, heaters stop, and water systems may freeze. A barn full of pigs can suffocate or freeze within hours. Prepare a backup power plan before you need it. A generator that can run the ventilation fans, heating system, and water pumps is the best option. Size the generator to handle the critical loads in your barn. A 50 to 100 kilowatt generator can usually handle a large swine barn. Test the generator monthly and keep it fueled. Run the generator under load for at least 30 minutes each month to make sure it works when you need it. Store enough fuel for at least 24 hours of continuous operation and rotate the fuel to keep it fresh. Install a transfer switch so the generator can power the barn without dangerous back feeding. A licensed electrician should install the transfer switch and connect the generator. Never plug a generator directly into a wall outlet. Have a supply of backup heaters available. Propane radiant heaters, kerosene heaters, and even heat lamps can provide emergency heat if the main system fails. Store them where you can access them quickly and make sure you have the right fuel on hand. Install an alarm system that alerts you when the power goes out or the temperature drops. Many modern controllers have built in alarms that call or text you. A simple phone dialer that monitors the power supply and temperature sensors is an affordable option. If a power outage occurs, check the barn immediately. Prioritize restoring ventilation and heat. Open doors and windows if the barn is overheating from a lack of ventilation. Move pigs to a warmer area if the temperature is dropping and you cannot restore heat quickly. ## When to Call a Veterinarian or Extension Agent Most heating problems are mechanical and can be solved with basic troubleshooting. But some situations require professional help. Call your veterinarian if you see signs of cold stress related illness that do not improve when you correct the temperature. Signs that warrant a veterinarian call include: - Increased incidence of scours or diarrhea in piglets - Respiratory disease with coughing, sneezing, or labored breathing - Increased mortality without a clear cause - Pigs that remain huddled or shivering even after you adjust the heat - Unusual behavior or lethargy across multiple pens A veterinarian can help you determine whether the problem is environmental, infectious, or both. They can also help you adjust your management practices to reduce disease pressure during cold weather. Call your local extension agent or agricultural engineer for help with: - Designing a new heating system - Calculating heat loss and sizing equipment - Improving insulation and ventilation - Comparing fuel costs and system options - Developing an emergency plan for power outages Extension agents have access to research based information and can often visit your farm to provide hands on advice. They can also connect you with other producers in your area who have dealt with similar challenges. ## Seasonal Maintenance Checklist Use this checklist before each heating season to prepare your barn for cold weather. ### Fall Preparation - Inspect all heaters, furnaces, and boilers - Clean burner assemblies and replace nozzles - Replace air filters - Check and calibrate thermostats and controllers - Test all temperature alarms and remote monitoring - Inspect and clean ventilation fans and shutters - Check belts and bearings on fans - Seal air leaks around doors, windows, and walls - Inspect insulation for damage or settling - Test the backup generator and transfer switch - Fill fuel tanks and arrange for regular deliveries - Stock spare bulbs for heat lamps - Clean and test heated mats and floor heating systems - Check electrical connections and wiring - Review the emergency plan with all employees ### Monthly Checks - Verify barn temperatures at pig level - Check heater operation and listen for unusual sounds - Clean dust from heaters and reflectors - Inspect heat lamp cords and fixtures for damage - Test the generator under load - Check fuel levels and order deliveries as needed - Review temperature records for trends - Observe pig behavior for signs of cold or heat stress ### Spring Shutdown - Clean and service all heating equipment before storage - Drain and winterize any water systems that will not be used - Store portable heaters in a dry location - Review winter records and plan improvements for next year - Schedule any needed repairs or upgrades for the off season ## Frequently Asked Questions ### What temperature should a farrowing barn be for newborn piglets? The creep area where piglets lie should be 90 to 95 degrees Fahrenheit at floor level for the first week of life. The sow's area should be 60 to 70 degrees. This difference is achieved with zone heating that warms the creep area without overheating the sow. Reduce the creep temperature by about 5 degrees per week as the piglets grow. ### Can I use heat lamps safely in a farrowing barn? Heat lamps can be used safely if they are properly mounted and maintained. Hang lamps from a secure chain or cable at the manufacturer's recommended height, usually 18 to 24 inches above the floor. Use a bulb guard to protect the bulb and keep the lamp away from bedding, manure, and combustible materials. Check each lamp daily for damage and dust buildup. A heat lamp that falls or comes in contact with flammable material can start a fire. ### How do I know if my pigs are too cold or too hot? Watch pig behavior. Cold pigs huddle together in groups, shiver, and pile on top of each other. They may be reluctant to move away from the heat source. Hot pigs spread out across the pen, lie away from each other, and may pant. Comfortable pigs lie on their sides in small groups with occasional movement. Use these behavioral signs along with a thermometer placed at pig level to adjust the heating system. ### What is the most energy efficient way to heat a swine barn? The most efficient approach combines good insulation, zone heating, and a properly sized primary heating system. Insulate the barn to recommended levels and seal air leaks. Use radiant heat or heated mats to warm piglets directly rather than heating the entire barn. Use a high efficiency furnace or boiler for the primary heat source. Match the system size to the actual heat load so the unit runs efficiently rather than cycling on and off. ### Should I use propane or electric heat for my swine barn? Propane is almost always cheaper to operate than electric heat. A propane furnace can deliver heat for about one third to one half the cost of electric resistance heat in most regions. Electric heat has lower upfront costs and requires no venting or fuel storage, so it can make sense for small supplemental loads like heat lamps and mats. For a primary heating system, propane or natural gas is usually the better choice. ### How often should I clean my barn heaters? Clean heaters at least once before the heating season and again mid season. Dust and dirt buildup on burners, heat exchangers, and reflectors reduces efficiency and creates a fire hazard. Use a shop vacuum and a soft brush to remove dust from heater surfaces. Have a qualified technician inspect and clean gas burners and heat exchangers annually. Keep the area around heaters clear of dust, cobwebs, and combustible materials. ### What should I do if the power goes out in winter? Check the barn immediately and prioritize restoring ventilation and heat. Start the backup generator and connect it through the transfer switch. If you do not have a generator, open doors and windows to prevent suffocation and use backup heaters to maintain temperature. Move pigs to a warmer area if the temperature is dropping rapidly. Call your power company and report the outage. Have an emergency plan in place before an outage occurs. ### Can I heat my barn with a wood stove or waste oil heater? Wood stoves and waste oil heaters can work but they require more labor and maintenance than gas or propane systems. Wood stoves need frequent loading and produce ash and creosote that must be cleaned. Waste oil heaters must be fed with clean used oil and require regular maintenance. Both can create fire hazards if not properly installed. If you use these systems, follow all safety codes, maintain clearances from combustible materials, and inspect them regularly. ## Related Farming Guides This section will be populated with links to related farming guides on pig care, barn management, ventilation systems, and cold weather livestock management. ## Related Clinical & Scientific Guides * [Pig Enrichment Programs and Behavior Monitoring](/knowledge/animal-farming/swine/pig-enrichment-programs-and-behavior-monitoring) * [Swine Handling Facility Design for Safe Pig Movement](/knowledge/animal-farming/swine/swine-handling-facility-design-safe-pig-movement) * [Swine Feeding Management for Grow-Finish Pigs](/knowledge/animal-farming/swine/swine-feeding-management-for-grow-finish-pigs) ## References - National Pork Board: https://www.pork.org/ - USDA APHIS Swine Health: https://www.aphis.usda.gov/livestock-poultry-disease/swine - FAO Pig Production: https://www.fao.org/pig-production-and-products/en/ - FAO Animal Production and Health: https://www.fao.org/animal-production/en/ - WOAH (World Organisation for Animal Health): https://www.woah.org/en/home/ > This article is educational and is not a substitute for veterinary diagnosis, treatment, public-health guidance, or regulatory reporting.