# Nursery Pig Environmental Enrichment for Behavior ## Key Takeaways - Nursery pig behavior issues like belly nosing, ear, and tail biting are direct responses to weaning stressors (nutritional, social, environmental, psychological) and a lack of outlets for innate rooting and exploration drives. - Effective enrichment objects are malleable, destructible, safe, cleanable, accessible, and novel; materials like soft rubber hoses, natural fiber ropes, untreated wood, and substrates like straw or wood shavings are superior to hard plastics. - Implementation requires strategic placement (distributed, near high-traffic areas), introduction at weaning, and consistent novelty through rotation or modification of enrichment items every 2-3 days to maintain pig interest. - Monitoring behavior by scanning pens for specific vices (tail/ear biting, aggression) and enrichment interaction, alongside recordkeeping, is crucial to assess program efficacy and identify when adjustments or professional consultation are necessary. - Biosecurity is paramount; all enrichment items must be sourced responsibly, cleaned and disinfected thoroughly between groups, or treated as disposable to prevent disease transmission. --- Raising nursery pigs is a demanding phase of swine production. The period after weaning is a time of rapid change, stress, and vulnerability. Pigs are removed from their mothers, mixed with unfamiliar animals, moved to a new building, and switched to a completely different diet. This combination of stressors often leads to undesirable behaviors such as belly nosing, ear and tail biting, and aggression at the feeder. These behaviors are not just a sign of boredom. They are indicators of poor welfare and can lead to reduced growth rates, increased medication costs, and higher mortality. This guide is for swine producers, farm managers, and stockpeople who want to improve the behavior and performance of their nursery pigs through practical environmental enrichment. We will cover the reasons behind problem behaviors, how to select and implement effective enrichment strategies, common mistakes to avoid, and how to monitor the success of your program. The goal is to provide a clear, actionable framework that fits into the daily routine of a working farm. Whether you manage a small independent operation or a large commercial unit, the principles here are designed to help you create a more functional and profitable nursery environment. ## At a Glance The most important points from this guide are summarized here for quick reference. | Takeaway | Key Action | |---|---| | Weaning is a major stressor | Enrichment is a tool to reduce stress, not a replacement for good nutrition, health, or ventilation. | | Pigs need things to root, chew, and manipulate | Provide substrates like straw or wood shavings, or objects like hanging ropes, soft rubber hoses, or commercial pig enrichment toys. | | Not all enrichment is equal | The best objects are malleable, destructible, and safe. Hard plastic balls are often ignored. | | Placement matters | Put enrichment where pigs spend time, not just in one corner. Ensure easy access for all pigs. | | Novelty is essential | Pigs habituate to objects quickly. Rotate or modify enrichment every few days to maintain interest. | | Monitor behavior | Track the frequency of belly nosing, tail biting, and aggression. This tells you if your program is working. | | Safety is non-negotiable | Check all objects for sharp edges, small parts, or toxicity. Remove and replace damaged items immediately. | | Enrichment is a management tool | It requires planning, labor, and routine, just like feeding and cleaning. | ## Understanding Nursery Pig Behavior and Stress To manage behavior, you must first understand the animal. The nursery phase is a critical period in a pig's life, and the behaviors they exhibit are often a direct response to their environment and management. ### The Weaning Stress Complex Weaning is arguably the most stressful event in a commercial pig's life. In nature, weaning is a gradual process that occurs over many weeks. In commercial production, it is often abrupt, happening at 3 to 4 weeks of age. This sudden change triggers a cascade of stressors. - **Nutritional Stress:** The piglet is switched from a highly digestible sow's milk to a solid, plant-based diet. This requires significant changes in the digestive system, which is often not fully mature. This can lead to a period of low feed intake, known as a "growth check," and increased susceptibility to enteric diseases like post-weaning diarrhea. - **Social Stress:** Piglets are removed from their littermates and mother and are mixed with piglets from other litters. This forces them to establish a new social hierarchy. The fighting that occurs during this time is a major source of stress and injury. - **Environmental Stress:** The pig is moved from the farrowing crate, which is warm and controlled, to a new nursery facility. This new environment has different flooring, ventilation, temperature, and lighting. The piglet must adapt to these new conditions while also coping with the other stressors. - **Psychological Stress:** The loss of the sow, the change in routine, and the unfamiliar surroundings all contribute to psychological distress. This complex stress response has a direct impact on behavior. Pigs experiencing high stress are more likely to perform abnormal, compulsive behaviors. These are not just "bad habits." They are coping mechanisms in an environment that the pig finds challenging. ### Problem Behaviors in the Nursery When pigs are unable to cope with their environment, they may develop stereotypies, which are repetitive, invariant behaviors with no obvious goal. The most common problem behaviors in nursery pigs are: - **Belly Nosing:** This is a behavior where a pig uses its snout to massage or root at the belly of another pig. It resembles the massaging action piglets use to stimulate milk let-down from the sow. In the nursery, it is often directed at a pennate's belly, flank, or other areas. Belly nosing is most often seen in pigs weaned at a young age and is considered a sign of frustration and a redirected behavior. - **Ear and Tail Biting:** These are more serious forms of injurious behavior. Ear biting can start as gentle chewing or suckling and escalate to severe wounds. Tail biting is a multifactorial problem with a strong link to environmental stress, including lack of suitable rooting material. It can lead to severe infections, abscesses, and even death. It is a major welfare and economic concern. - **Aggression:** While some fighting is normal when pigs are first mixed, persistent and severe aggression is a problem. This includes fighting over feeder space, water access, or lying areas. Aggression can lead to lameness, skin lesions, and chronic stress. - **Excessive Oral-Nasal Behaviors:** This includes constant chewing on pen fixtures, such as bars, feeders, and drinkers. It is a sign that the pig is trying to satisfy its natural drive to explore and root but has nothing suitable to do so with. These behaviors are not only a welfare issue but also a production issue. Pigs that are fighting, biting, or nosing are not resting, eating, or gaining weight efficiently. They are expending energy on these behaviors instead of growth. The economic impact can be significant. ### The Motivation for Exploration and Rooting Pigs are highly intelligent and curious animals. Their natural behavior is to spend a large portion of their waking hours foraging. They use their snouts to root in the soil, searching for food, and to explore their surroundings. This is a strong, innate behavioral need. In a barren, conventional nursery pen, there is nothing to root in and nothing to explore. The pig's motivation to perform these behaviors remains, but the outlet is gone. This frustrated motivation is redirected toward the only things available: their pen-mates and the pen fixtures. This is the fundamental reason why environmental enrichment is so important. It provides an acceptable outlet for these natural behaviors, reducing stress and preventing the development of harmful vices. ## Selecting the Right Enrichment for Your Nursery Not all enrichment is created equal. Simply throwing a hard plastic ball into a pen is often ineffective. Pigs will investigate a novel object briefly, but if it does not satisfy their needs, they will quickly lose interest. The key is to provide enrichment that is species-appropriate and engages the pig's natural behaviors. ### Categories of Enrichment The scientific literature often categorizes enrichment into five types. A good enrichment program will incorporate elements from several of these categories. 1. **Social Enrichment:** This involves providing opportunities for positive social interactions. In the nursery, this is primarily about group housing, which allows pigs to socialize, play, and establish a hierarchy. However, the social environment can also be enriched by ensuring pigs are not overcrowded and that the group size is manageable. 2. **Occupational Enrichment:** This type of enrichment aims to keep animals physically and mentally active. It includes puzzle feeders, toys that require manipulation, and objects that can be chewed and destroyed. For pigs, this is a key category. 3. **Physical Enrichment:** This refers to the complexity of the physical environment itself. It includes adding structures like partitions, ramps, or platforms. It also includes changing the pen layout to create distinct functional areas for feeding, sleeping, and eliminating. 4. **Sensory Enrichment:** This involves stimulating the pig's senses. This can be done with visual stimuli, such as moving objects or colored lights, auditory stimuli, like music or sounds, or olfactory stimuli, such as providing different scents. This is a more advanced form of enrichment and can be used to add novelty. 5. **Nutritional Enrichment:** This goes beyond just providing a balanced diet. It involves changing the way feed is presented. This can include scattering feed on the floor to encourage foraging, providing hay, or using puzzle feeders that require the pig to work for its food. For a practical nursery program, the most important categories to focus on are physical and occupational enrichment, specifically by providing manipulable materials. ### What Makes a Good Enrichment Object? When choosing objects for your nursery pigs, consider the following characteristics. The ideal object is: - **Malleable and Destructible:** Pigs need to be able to change the shape of the object and, ideally, destroy it over time. This mimics the act of rooting in soil. Materials like soft rubber, plastic tubing, and untreated wood are excellent. Hard, rigid objects like a solid rubber ball are less interesting because the pig cannot manipulate them. - **Safe:** The object must be non-toxic and free of sharp edges, small parts that can be swallowed, and materials that can cause internal blockages. Regularly inspect all objects for damage. - **Cleanable:** The object should be easy to clean or be disposable. This is crucial for maintaining biosecurity and preventing the spread of disease. Some materials, like straw, are single-use and compostable. Others, like rubber hoses, can be cleaned and disinfected. - **Accessible:** The object must be within easy reach of all pigs in the pen. For small pigs, this means hanging it at snout level. For larger pigs, it can be placed on the floor or hung slightly higher. - **Novel:** Pigs are curious but they habituate to objects quickly. An object that is interesting on day one may be ignored by day three. The key is to provide novelty by rotating objects, changing their position, or introducing new ones. ### Practical Enrichment Options Here is a list of practical, effective, and commonly used enrichment options for nursery pigs. - **Substrates (The "Gold Standard"):** - **Straw:** This is widely considered the best form of enrichment for pigs. It satisfies the rooting and foraging drive, provides a source of fiber, and can also improve lying comfort. The downside is that it can block slatted floors and requires more labor for management and removal. - **Wood Shavings:** A good alternative to straw, especially on slatted floors. They are highly manipulable and can be scattered in a designated rooting area. Ensure they are from untreated, non-toxic wood. - **Hay:** Similar to straw, hay is a good foraging material. It can be provided in a rack or scattered on the floor. - **Peat or Compost:** These are highly attractive to pigs for rooting but can be messy and difficult to manage in a nursery with slatted floors. They are more commonly used in research or specialized systems. - **Hanging Objects:** - **Soft Rubber Hoses:** Sections of flexible, soft rubber hose are excellent. They are malleable, can be chewed, and are durable. Hang them from a chain or a rope at snout height. - **Ropes:** Natural fiber ropes, like sisal, are attractive for chewing. They are destructible, which is a positive feature. Ensure the rope is not frayed to a point where it could be ingested in large pieces. - **Commercial Pig Enrichment Toys:** There are many commercial toys on the market designed specifically for pigs. These are often made of soft, durable plastic or rubber and come in various shapes. Some are designed to be filled with feed or treats, adding a nutritional element. - **Plastic Drums or Containers:** Clean, sturdy plastic containers or drums can be hung in the pen. Pigs enjoy pushing, rolling, and chewing on them. Ensure all lids are removed and there are no sharp edges. - **Floor-Based Objects:** - **Untreated Wooden Blocks or Logs:** Pigs love to chew on wood. Provide small, untreated logs or blocks. These are destructible and safe. Check them regularly for splinters. - **Large, Soft Plastic Balls:** While hard balls are often ignored, larger, softer balls that can be manipulated and moved around the pen can be interesting, especially for younger pigs. - **Rubber Boots or Gloves:** A surprisingly effective and cheap option. Pigs seem to enjoy the texture of rubber. Ensure they are clean and free of any metal parts or sharp objects. ### Choosing the Right Option for Your System The best choice of enrichment will depend on your specific system. - **Fully Slatted Floors:** Substrates like straw are problematic. The best options are hanging objects like ropes, hoses, or commercial toys. You can also use a "rooting box" or "enrichment box" on the floor. This is a sturdy, low-sided container filled with wood shavings, peat, or shredded paper. It provides a designated area for rooting without the material blocking the slats. - **Partially Slatted or Solid Floors:** You have more flexibility. You can provide substrates like straw or wood shavings in a designated area of the pen. This is the most beneficial form of enrichment. - **Automated or High-Volume Systems:** Consider using a system that is easy to manage. This might involve hanging objects that can be quickly checked and replaced. There are also automated systems that dispense small amounts of straw or feed onto the pen floor at intervals, stimulating foraging behavior. ## Implementing Your Enrichment Program A successful enrichment program is more than just providing an object. It requires a plan for implementation, placement, and maintenance. ### Step-by-Step Implementation Guide Follow these steps to set up an effective enrichment program in your nursery. **Step 1: Assess Your Current Situation** Before you start, take a walk through your nursery. Look at each pen and ask yourself these questions: - Is the pen barren? Are there any objects or materials beyond the feeder and drinker? - What behaviors are the pigs displaying? Are they actively fighting, belly nosing, or biting tails? Or are they relatively calm and exploring? - How much labor is available for daily chores and enrichment maintenance? - What is your flooring type? This will determine if you can use substrates. **Step 2: Start with One or Two Simple Options** Do not try to implement a complex program all at once. Start with a simple, manageable option. For most operations, this will be a hanging object. - **Choose a Hanging Object:** Select a soft rubber hose, a rope, or a commercial toy. - **Calculate Quantity:** A general rule of thumb is to provide one enrichment point for every 10 to 15 pigs. In a pen of 20 pigs, you should have at least two hanging objects. - **Install at the Correct Height:** The object should be at snout level for the pigs. For newly weaned pigs, this is low to the ground. As the pigs grow, you will need to adjust the height. A good guide is to hang it so that the pig has to slightly raise its snout to interact with it. If it is too high, smaller pigs cannot reach it. If it is too low, pigs may step on it or it may get soiled. **Step 3: Introduce the Enrichment at Weaning** The best time to introduce enrichment is at the moment pigs enter the nursery. This gives them a positive outlet from day one, which can help reduce the stress of mixing and the new environment. The novelty of the object can also help distract them from fighting. **Step 4: Plan for Rotation and Novelty** This is the most critical step for long-term success. Pigs will lose interest in an object if it is always the same. - **Rotation Schedule:** Create a schedule to rotate the enrichment. For example, you might have a set of three or four different types of objects. Every 2 to 3 days, you swap the object in the pen for a different one. - **Modify Existing Objects:** You can also create novelty by changing the objects you have. For example, you can move the hanging object to a different location in the pen. Or, you can tie a new piece of rope to an existing toy. - **Use Food as a Novelty:** Foraging is a strong motivator. Periodically scattering a small handful of feed or grain on the solid part of the pen floor can provide a burst of foraging activity. This is a simple and effective form of enrichment. **Step 5: Train Your Staff** Your employees are the ones who will make this program work. They need to understand the "why" behind enrichment and the "how" of the program. - **Explain the Benefits:** Show them how enrichment reduces fighting and tail biting, which in turn reduces their workload in treating injured animals. - **Demonstrate the Routine:** Show them how to properly hang an object, how to check it for safety, and how to rotate it. - **Empower Them to Act:** Encourage them to report any damaged or soiled objects immediately. Give them the authority to replace an object if they see it is not working. ### Placement Strategies Where you put the enrichment object is just as important as what it is. - **Do Not Put All Enrichment in One Spot:** If you have two objects in a pen, place them on opposite sides of the pen. This prevents all the pigs from crowding into one area and reduces competition. - **Place Near High-Traffic Areas:** Pigs tend to congregate near the feeder and drinker. Placing an object near these areas ensures it is seen and used. However, do not place it so close that it blocks access to feed or water. - **Consider the Lying Area:** Pigs often chew and root while they are lying down. Placing a hanging object near the sleeping area can be effective. - **Think About Visibility:** The object should be easily visible to the pigs. A dark object in a dim corner may be ignored. ## Common Mistakes to Avoid Many well-intentioned enrichment programs fail because of a few common mistakes. Being aware of these can save you time and money. ### Mistake 1: Assuming One Object is Enough A single toy in a pen of 20 pigs will not solve your behavioral problems. The [dominant](/blog/careers/dominant-definition-biology) pigs will monopolize the object, and the subordinate pigs will not get access. You need to provide multiple enrichment points, distributed around the pen, to ensure all pigs have access. ### Mistake 2: Ignoring the Need for Novelty The most common reason enrichment fails is that pigs become bored with it. A hard plastic ball that was interesting on day one is ignored by day five. The object is still in the pen, but it is no longer providing any benefit. You must have a system for rotating and changing the enrichment to keep it interesting. ### Mistake 3: Using Inappropriate or Unsafe Objects Some objects are dangerous. Avoid: - **Hard, rigid plastic:** This can break into sharp shards. - **Objects with small parts:** These can be chewed off and swallowed, causing choking or intestinal blockages. - **Treated wood:** This may contain chemicals that are toxic to pigs. - **Metal objects:** These can have sharp edges. - **Tires:** While often used, tires can contain wire that becomes exposed and is dangerous. They are also very difficult to clean. ### Mistake 4: Placing Objects Out of Reach If an object is hanging too high, the pigs cannot interact with it. It becomes a permanent, useless fixture. You must adjust the height of hanging objects as the pigs grow. ### Mistake 5: Not Monitoring the Program You cannot just set and forget an enrichment program. You need to monitor it to see if it is working. Are the pigs using the objects? Are the problem behaviors decreasing? If not, you need to change your approach. ### Mistake 6: Not Considering the Cost and Labor Enrichment is not free. There is a cost for the materials, and there is a labor cost for installation, rotation, and maintenance. You need to budget for this and build it into your standard operating procedures. If you do not plan for the labor, the program will likely fall by the wayside. ### Mistake 7: Using Enrichment to Mask a Bigger Problem Enrichment is a valuable tool, but it cannot fix a fundamentally broken environment. If your pigs are tail biting because of poor ventilation, high ammonia levels, or overcrowding, no amount of toys will solve the problem. Enrichment must be part of a holistic approach to pig welfare and management. First, ensure the basics are correct: good air quality, appropriate temperature, adequate space, and a balanced diet. Then, use enrichment to address the behavioral needs that remain. ## Monitoring, Recordkeeping, and Making Adjustments To know if your enrichment program is working, you need to monitor it. This is not a complicated process, but it requires consistency. ### How to Monitor Behavior The goal is to track the prevalence of problem behaviors. The simplest way is to do a "pen scan." - **Choose a Time:** Pick a time of day when the pigs are most active, usually in the morning or late afternoon. - **Scan Each Pen:** Stand in front of each pen and observe for 2 to 3 minutes. - **Count and Record:** For each pen, record the number of pigs you see performing a specific behavior. You can track: - Number of pigs fighting or displaying aggression. - Number of pigs belly nosing. - Number of pigs ear or tail biting. - Number of pigs actively interacting with the enrichment (chewing, rooting, pushing). - **Use a Simple Form:** Create a simple paper or digital form to record your observations. This data is valuable for tracking trends over time. ### What to Do With Your Observations Your observations will tell you if your program is working. - **If problem behaviors are low and enrichment use is high:** Your program is working. Continue with your current strategy. - **If problem behaviors are high and enrichment use is low:** Your enrichment is not effective. The pigs are not interested in the objects. Try a different type of object, change the placement, or increase the frequency of rotation. - **If problem behaviors are high and enrichment use is high:** This is a red flag. It may mean the pigs are highly stressed and are using the enrichment as a coping mechanism, but it is not enough. Re-examine your overall management. Check your ventilation, temperature, stocking density, and health status. - **If problem behaviors are low and enrichment use is low:** This is a good sign. It may mean your pigs are content and have low stress levels. The enrichment is there as a resource, and they are using it occasionally. ### Recordkeeping for Enrichment Keeping records is important for several reasons. It helps you track the cost of the program, identify what works best in your system, and demonstrate your commitment to welfare if you are audited or certified. Keep a simple log that includes: - **Date:** The date of the observation. - **Pen Number:** Which pen you observed. - **Enrichment Type:** What type of enrichment is in the pen. - **Date of Last Rotation:** When the enrichment was last changed. - **Behavior Score:** Your count of problem behaviors and enrichment use. - **Notes:** Any other relevant observations, such as sick pigs, damaged equipment, or issues with the environment. ### When to Make Adjustments Use your data to make informed decisions about your program. - **If a specific type of toy is always ignored:** Stop buying it. Try a different type. - **If a specific pen has a high rate of tail biting:** It may need more enrichment or a different type of enrichment. It may also indicate a problem with that specific pig group. - **If the pigs seem to lose interest in all objects after a few days:** Increase the frequency of rotation. - **If the program is costing too much in labor or materials:** Look for more cost-effective options. For example, a sturdy rubber hose may last longer than a commercial toy. Untreated wood from a local sawmill may be cheaper than bought toys. ## Common Mistakes in the Nursery Environment Beyond the enrichment program itself, there are common environmental and management mistakes that can undermine pig behavior. Addressing these is crucial. ### Poor Ventilation and Air Quality This is one of the most common contributors to respiratory disease and poor behavior. High levels of ammonia, dust, and carbon dioxide irritate the pigs' respiratory tracts and cause chronic stress. Stressed pigs are more likely to develop vices like tail biting. - **Action:** Regularly check ventilation rates. Aim for ammonia levels below 10 to 15 parts per million. Ensure there is adequate air movement without drafts. Clean and maintain fans and inlets. ### Inappropriate Temperature Nursery pigs are very sensitive to temperature. If they are too cold, they will huddle together, which can increase aggression and competition for lying space. If they are too hot, they will be lethargic and may pant, and they will spend more time at the drinker, creating wet, dirty areas. - **Action:** Provide a draft-free, warm environment for newly weaned pigs, with a target temperature of around 85 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit for the first week. Then, gradually lower the temperature by about 2 to 3 degrees Fahrenheit per week. Provide a heat source, like a heat lamp or pad, in a designated lying area. ### Overcrowding Too many pigs in a pen is a major stressor. It leads to increased competition for feed, water, and lying space. This directly increases aggression and the risk of vices. - **Action:** Follow the recommended space allowances for your floor type and pig weight. The National Pork Board provides guidelines on space requirements. As a general rule, you should provide at least 3 to 4 square feet per pig in a nursery. ### Poor Feeder and Drinker Management If pigs cannot easily access feed and water, they will become frustrated and aggressive. This is a common cause of belly nosing and other redirected behaviors. - **Action:** Ensure there is adequate feeder space. A general rule is one feeder space for every 3 to 4 pigs. Check feeders regularly to ensure feed is flowing and fresh. Provide at least one drinker for every 10 pigs, and ensure they are at the correct height and flow rate. ### Inconsistent Daily Routine Pigs are creatures of habit. A consistent daily routine reduces stress. If feeding times, checking times, and other chores are unpredictable, it can make pigs more anxious and reactive. - **Action:** Establish a consistent daily schedule for all nursery tasks. Try to feed, check, and clean at the same times each day. ## Decision Thresholds and When to Seek Professional Help There are times when behavioral problems are a sign of a larger issue that requires professional help. It is important to know when to move beyond your own management strategies. ### Thresholds for Concern While some level of fighting is normal during initial mixing, you should be concerned if: - **Aggression persists for more than 48 hours after mixing.** - **Tail or ear biting is occurring in more than 2 to 3 percent of your nursery pigs.** - **You see a sudden, unexplained spike in any problem behavior.** - **Pigs are becoming chronically lame or have severe skin lesions from fighting.** - **The problem behaviors are leading to a significant increase in mortality or the need for antibiotic treatment.** ### When to Call Your Veterinarian Your veterinarian is your first point of contact for any health or behavioral concern. Call them if: - **You see a sudden, acute outbreak of tail biting.** This can be a sign of an underlying health problem, such as a viral or bacterial infection, that is causing stress. - **Problem behaviors are accompanied by other signs of illness**, such as fever, lethargy, poor appetite, or diarrhea. - **Your standard enrichment and management adjustments are not working.** Your veterinarian may be able to recommend other strategies or help you identify underlying causes. ### When to Contact an Extension Agent or Swine Specialist Your local university extension service or a swine production specialist can be an invaluable resource. Contact them if: - **You are facing a chronic, long-term problem with behavior that you cannot resolve.** - **You are designing a new nursery or renovating an existing one** and want to build in the best possible environmental design. - **You want to learn about the latest research on enrichment and pig welfare.** - **You are considering a major change to your management system** and want advice on the implications for behavior and welfare. An extension agent can provide you with research-based information and connect you with other producers who may have solved similar problems. ## Enrichment and Biosecurity Any object you bring into a nursery has the potential to introduce disease. This is a critical consideration. ### Selecting Biosecure Materials - **Substrates:** Straw, hay, and wood shavings should be sourced from reputable suppliers who can guarantee they are free from pests and contaminants. Store them in a clean, dry area away from wildlife and rodents. - **Hanging Objects and Toys:** New toys are generally safe. If you are reusing toys, they must be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected between groups. Use a disinfectant that is effective against common swine pathogens and is safe for the material of the toy. - **Natural Materials:** Wood, ropes, and other natural materials are more difficult to disinfect. It is often safer to treat these as single-use items and compost them after each group of pigs. ### Cleaning and Disinfection Protocols - **Incorporate Enrichment Into Your All-In/All-Out Cleaning:** When you clean and disinfect the nursery between groups, all enrichment items must be included in the process. - **Disposable Items:** Throw away all destructible items like ropes, wood, and any heavily soiled or damaged toys. - **Reusable Items:** For durable items like rubber hoses and commercial toys, follow this process: 1. **Pre-clean:** Remove all visible organic matter with soap and water. 2. **Wash:** Wash thoroughly with a detergent to remove all dirt and biofilm. 3. **Disinfect:** Apply a disinfectant according to the label instructions. 4. **Rinse and Dry:** Rinse with clean water and allow to dry completely before storing or reusing. ## Frequently Asked Questions **Q: My pigs ignore the toys I give them. Why?** A: The most common reason is that the toy is not interesting to them. Pigs are highly motivated to root and chew. A hard, rigid object that cannot be manipulated is boring. Try switching to a malleable object like a soft rubber hose, a piece of rope, or a commercial toy designed for pig enrichment. Another reason is a lack of novelty. If the toy has been in the pen for weeks, the pigs have habituated to it. You need to rotate toys every few days to keep them interesting. **Q: Is straw really the best enrichment? It seems like a lot of work.** A: Yes, straw is often considered the gold standard for pig enrichment because it satisfies their strong rooting and foraging drive. It is also a source of fiber. However, it is true that it requires more labor to manage, especially on fully slatted floors. If you cannot use straw, you can use a rooting box filled with wood shavings or provide hanging objects like ropes and hoses. The best enrichment is the one that is practical and effective for your specific system. **Q: How many enrichment toys should I put in a pen?** A: A good rule of thumb is to provide at least one enrichment point for every 10 to 15 pigs. In a pen of 20 pigs, you should have at least two objects, placed on opposite sides of the pen. This ensures that all pigs have access and prevents dominant pigs from monopolizing the resource. **Q: Will enrichment reduce tail biting?** A: It can be a significant part of a strategy to reduce tail biting. Tail biting is a multifactorial problem, but a lack of suitable enrichment is a major risk factor. By providing pigs with an outlet for their natural rooting and chewing behaviors, you reduce their stress and frustration, which are key triggers for tail biting. However, enrichment alone may not solve the problem if other issues like poor ventilation, overcrowding, or nutritional deficiencies are present. **Q: Can I just use a few old plastic buckets or containers?** A: You can, as long as they are safe. Make sure they are clean and free of any residues. Remove any metal handles or sharp edges. Pigs will enjoy pushing and chewing on a sturdy plastic container. However, watch them closely. Some pigs will chew and ingest plastic, which can cause health problems. If you see them breaking off pieces and eating them, remove the container and use a different type of enrichment. **Q: How do I stop pigs from fighting when they are first mixed?** A: Some fighting is normal as they establish a social hierarchy. To reduce the severity and duration, you can try a few things. Provide a well-bedded, comfortable environment. Scatter some feed on the floor to distract them. Most importantly, have your enrichment in place before they enter the pen. The novelty of a hanging toy or a rooting box can help redirect their attention. Also, ensure there is adequate feeder and drinker space to reduce competition. **Q: What is a rooting box?** A: A rooting box is a sturdy, low-sided container placed on the pen floor. It is filled with a substrate like wood shavings, peat, or shredded paper. It provides pigs with a designated area to perform their natural rooting behavior without the material getting all over the pen and blocking slatted floors. It is a very effective form of enrichment for systems where using loose straw is not practical. **Q: Is it okay to give pigs untreated wood to chew on?** A: Yes, untreated wood is a safe and excellent enrichment option. Pigs enjoy the texture and the act of chewing and destroying it. Ensure it is from a non-toxic tree species and is free from nails, splinters, or any chemical treatments. Small logs or sturdy wooden blocks work well. ## Related Farming Guides This section will be populated with links to other relevant farming guides on this site to help you further improve your swine management practices. ## Related Clinical & Scientific Guides * [Pig Enrichment Programs and Behavior Monitoring](/knowledge/animal-farming/swine/pig-enrichment-programs-and-behavior-monitoring) * [Swine Handling Facility Design for Safe Pig Movement](/knowledge/animal-farming/swine/swine-handling-facility-design-safe-pig-movement) * [Swine Feeding Management for Grow-Finish Pigs](/knowledge/animal-farming/swine/swine-feeding-management-for-grow-finish-pigs) ## References - National Pork Board: https://www.pork.org/ - USDA APHIS Swine Health: https://www.aphis.usda.gov/livestock-poultry-disease/swine - FAO Pig Production: https://www.fao.org/pig-production-and-products/en/ - FAO Animal Production and Health: https://www.fao.org/animal-production/en/ - WOAH (World Organisation for Animal Health): https://www.woah.org/en/home/ > This article is educational and is not a substitute for veterinary diagnosis, treatment, public-health guidance, or regulatory reporting.