# Sheep Pasture Species Selection: Choosing Forages for Flock Health


## Key Takeaways

- **Legumes like clover and chicory are critical for flock health, offering higher protein and mineral content than grasses, with chicory and birdsfoot trefoil specifically containing condensed tannins that can reduce internal parasite burdens by interfering with larval development.** This reduces reliance on anthelmintics and slows drug resistance.
- **Pasture species selection must be dictated by environmental factors, including USDA Hardiness Zone for winter survival, annual rainfall for drought tolerance (e.g., deep-rooted tall fescue vs. shallow-rooted perennial ryegrass), and soil pH (ideally 6.0-7.0) which significantly impacts legume nitrogen fixation and overall plant nutrient availability.**
- **Rotational grazing is paramount for pasture persistence and parasite management; it prevents overgrazing of palatable species, allows for plant regrowth, and can break the parasite life cycle by providing adequate rest periods (21-45 days) for larvae on pasture to die off.**
- **Endophyte-free or novel endophyte tall fescue varieties are essential for sheep pastures in suitable regions, as common tall fescue harbors an endophyte fungus that produces toxic alkaloids causing fescue toxicosis, leading to reduced weight gain and poor reproductive performance in sheep.**
- **Forage selection directly impacts hoof health; well-drained pastures with appropriate species reduce the time sheep spend in wet, muddy conditions, thereby mitigating the risk of foot rot and foot scald, which are exacerbated by bacteria thriving in anaerobic, moist environments.**
- **Incorporating forbs like chicory and plantain, alongside legumes, provides nutritional diversity and potential health benefits; chicory, in particular, is highly palatable and nutritious, supporting excellent weight gain in lambs and offering parasite-reducing tannins.**

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Choosing the right pasture species is one of the most consequential decisions you will make for your sheep operation. The forages you plant determine not only how much your flock can eat but also how well they resist internal parasites, how sound their feet stay, and how much money you spend on supplemental feed. This guide covers the full process of selecting pasture plants for sheep, from understanding your climate and soil to planting, grazing management, and long-term pasture renovation. It is written for both new shepherds establishing their first pastures and experienced producers looking to improve existing fields.

## At a Glance

- **Clover and chicory are your best friends.** Red clover and chicory support animal health and reduce parasite burdens better than most grasses alone.
- **Match species to your environment.** No single pasture mix works everywhere. Your rainfall, soil pH, and winter temperatures should drive your choices.
- **Perennial ryegrass and white clover form the base of most sheep pastures** in temperate regions, but they need careful grazing management to persist.
- **Never plant a pasture without a soil test.** Lime and fertilizer adjustments before seeding save you years of poor production.
- **Rotational grazing is not optional.** Sheep graze selectively, and without rotation they will destroy the most palatable plants in your mix.
- **Plan for the "summer slump."** Warm-season forages or drought-tolerant species can fill the gap when cool-season grasses go dormant.
- **Poisonous plants are a real threat.** Know what is already growing in your fields before you turn sheep out.
- **Your extension agent is a free resource.** Use them for soil test interpretation, species recommendations, and parasite management advice.

## Why Pasture Species Choice Matters for Sheep

Sheep are not cattle. They have smaller mouths, different grazing habits, and much higher susceptibility to internal parasites. The plants you choose directly affect all of these factors. A pasture that is perfect for beef cows can be a disaster for sheep, and vice versa.

The first reason species selection matters is nutrition. Sheep need energy, protein, and minerals from forage, and different plants deliver these in very different amounts. Legumes like clover and alfalfa are high in protein and calcium. Grasses provide more fiber and energy. The balance you plant determines whether your ewes milk well, whether your lambs gain weight efficiently, and whether your breeding flock stays in proper body condition.

The second reason is parasite management. Internal parasites, especially barber pole worm (*[Haemonchus contortus](/knowledge/parasites/livestock-parasites/haemonchus-contortus)*), are the number one health threat to grazing sheep in many regions. The American Consortium for [Small Ruminant Parasite Control](/knowledge/veterinary-medicine/food-animal-medicine/small-ruminant-parasite-control-diagnostic-strategies-anthelmintic-stewardship) (ACSRPC) emphasizes that pasture management is a critical part of any parasite control program. Some forages, particularly those with high tannin content like chicory and birdsfoot trefoil, have been shown to reduce parasite burdens in grazing sheep. Grazing sheep on these plants can reduce the need for deworming and slow the development of drug resistance.

The third reason is hoof health. Sheep grazing on lush, wet pastures are prone to foot rot and foot scald. The bacteria that cause these conditions thrive in mud and manure. Well-drained pastures with the right grass species can reduce the time sheep spend standing in wet conditions. Some grasses, like tall fescue, are also more durable under heavy hoof traffic than others.

The fourth reason is pasture persistence and weed pressure. Some forage species are naturally more competitive against weeds than others. A well-established, dense stand of the right grasses and legumes will outcompete most weeds. A poorly chosen mix will thin out over time and become a weed patch, which then requires expensive herbicide applications or complete renovation.

The fifth reason is economics. The cost of establishing pasture is significant, whether you are drilling seed into prepared ground or renovating an old field. Choosing the wrong species means you pay that cost twice, once for the failed planting and again for the correction. Conversely, choosing the right species means your pasture produces for a decade or more with only modest annual maintenance.

## Understanding Your Environment Before You Choose

Before you look at a single seed catalog, you need to understand the conditions your pasture will grow in. This means knowing your climate zone, your soil type, your rainfall patterns, and your elevation. The best pasture for sheep in western Oregon is completely different from the best pasture for sheep in central Texas or upstate New York.

### Climate and Hardiness Zones

The USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map tells you which plants can survive your winter temperatures. Most cool-season forages, including perennial ryegrass, tall fescue, orchardgrass, and white clover, are hardy to Zone 4 or colder. If you live in Zones 3 through 7, these grasses will generally survive your winters. If you live in Zones 8 through 10, you need to think about summer heat more than winter cold.

Warm-season grasses like bermudagrass and bahiagrass thrive in the hot, humid Southeast. They grow best in midsummer when cool-season grasses are dormant. In the transition zone, where neither cool-season nor warm-season grasses grow perfectly year round, you may need a mix of both.

### Rainfall and Irrigation

Forage plants need water to grow, and different species have very different drought tolerance. Perennial ryegrass is productive but shallow rooted. It needs regular moisture and will go dormant or die during extended dry spells. Tall fescue is deeper rooted and more drought tolerant. It stays green longer into the summer and recovers faster after drought.

If you receive less than 25 inches of annual rainfall, you should focus on drought-tolerant species. If you receive more than 40 inches, you can grow the more productive but thirstier grasses. If you have irrigation, you can push your pasture harder and grow more productive species, but you must account for the cost of water and the labor of moving sprinklers.

### Soil Type and Drainage

Soil texture matters enormously for pasture success. Sandy soils drain quickly and warm up fast in the spring, but they hold little water and few nutrients. Clay soils hold water and nutrients well but drain slowly and can become waterlogged. Loamy soils are ideal for most forage species.

Poor drainage is a common pasture problem. Sheep do not graze well on wet ground, and hoof diseases spread quickly in muddy conditions. If your pasture has standing water after rain, you need to either improve drainage with tile or ditches, or choose species that tolerate wet feet. Reed canarygrass and some fescues tolerate wet conditions better than most legumes.

### Soil pH and Fertility

Soil pH is the single most important soil factor for pasture success. Most forage species prefer a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. Legumes are especially sensitive to acid soils. If your pH is below 6.0, clover will struggle to establish and will not fix nitrogen effectively.

The only way to know your soil pH and nutrient levels is to take a soil test. Your local cooperative extension office provides soil testing services at a modest cost, often $10 to $20 per sample. The test tells you your pH, phosphorus, potassium, and sometimes micronutrient levels. It also gives you lime and fertilizer recommendations specific to your soil and the crops you plan to grow.

Take soil samples well before you plan to seed. Lime takes three to six months to react fully with the soil, so apply it the fall before a spring seeding or the spring before a fall seeding. Do not skip this step. Seeding into acid, infertile soil is the most common cause of pasture establishment failure.

## The Best Grass Species for Sheep Pastures

Grasses form the backbone of most sheep pastures. They provide the bulk of the forage, they tolerate grazing well, and they are relatively easy to establish. The following grasses are proven performers for sheep in various regions.

### Perennial Ryegrass

Perennial ryegrass is the gold standard for sheep pastures in cool, moist climates. It establishes quickly, tolerates close grazing, and produces highly digestible forage. Sheep love it and will graze it down to the ground if given the chance.

The main weakness of perennial ryegrass is its lack of persistence. It is a short lived perennial, often lasting only two to four years in a pasture. It also requires good moisture and fertility. In dry summers it goes dormant and may die if the drought is severe.

Perennial ryegrass is best used in a mix with white clover for intensive rotational grazing systems. It works well in the Pacific Northwest, the Northeast, the upper Midwest, and similar cool, moist regions. It is also the grass of choice for many pasture lamb finishing programs because its high digestibility supports rapid weight gain.

### Tall Fescue

Tall fescue is the workhorse grass of the transition zone. It is deep rooted, drought tolerant, and persistent. It grows on a wide range of soils and survives both heat and cold. It is the most widely planted cool-season grass in the United States.

The problem with tall fescue is that most of it is infected with an endophyte fungus. This fungus produces alkaloids that are toxic to livestock. Sheep grazing endophyte infected tall fescue can develop fescue toxicosis, which causes reduced weight gain, poor milk production, elevated body temperature, and rough coats. In sheep, the effects are often less dramatic than in cattle, but they are still significant.

You can avoid this problem by planting endophyte free or novel endophyte tall fescue varieties. Novel endophyte varieties contain a different fungus that does not produce the toxic alkaloids. These varieties cost more than common tall fescue, but they are worth the premium for sheep production.

Tall fescue is a good choice for sheep pastures in the Southeast, the mid-Atlantic, and the lower Midwest. It also works well in the drier parts of the Pacific Northwest. It is especially valuable for winter stockpiled grazing because it stays green and nutritious longer into the fall than most other cool-season grasses.

### Orchardgrass

Orchardgrass is a bunchgrass that produces high yields of palatable forage. It establishes well, tolerates moderate drought, and persists for many years under good management. It is more productive than perennial ryegrass in the late spring and early summer.

Orchardgrass is less tolerant of close grazing than perennial ryegrass. It needs a rotation that allows it to recover to a height of 6 to 8 inches before being grazed again. It also does not tolerate poorly drained soils.

Orchardgrass works well in mixes with red clover and white clover. It is a good choice for the Northeast, the Midwest, and the Pacific Northwest. It is less suitable for the deep South, where summer heat stresses it.

### Timothy

Timothy is a classic hay grass that also makes good sheep pasture. It is palatable, productive in cool conditions, and well suited to the Northeast and upper Midwest. It is a bunchgrass that does not tolerate close grazing or heavy hoof traffic.

Timothy is slower to establish than perennial ryegrass and produces most of its growth in the spring. It goes dormant in summer heat and drought. It is best used in mixes for hay or for light grazing in cool, moist regions.

### Kentucky Bluegrass

Kentucky bluegrass is a sod forming grass that tolerates close grazing well. It spreads by rhizomes and recovers quickly from grazing pressure. It is hardy and persistent, but it produces less forage than ryegrass or orchardgrass.

Bluegrass is a good choice for permanent sheep pastures that are grazed continuously or lightly. It thrives in the Northeast, the upper Midwest, and the mountain West. It is especially valuable for ewe flocks that need a durable, low maintenance pasture.

### Smooth Bromegrass

Smooth bromegrass is a productive, cold hardy grass that spreads by rhizomes. It is well suited to the northern Great Plains and the upper Midwest. It tolerates drought better than most cool-season grasses and persists for many years.

Smooth bromegrass is less palatable than ryegrass or orchardgrass, but sheep will graze it readily when it is young and leafy. It is best used in a mix with alfalfa or birdsfoot trefoil for sheep pastures in cold, dry regions.

### Bermudagrass

Bermudagrass is the [dominant](/blog/careers/dominant-definition-biology) pasture grass of the Southeast. It is a warm-season grass that grows vigorously in summer heat. It is drought tolerant, persistent, and tolerates close grazing.

The problem with bermudagrass for sheep is that it produces lower quality forage than cool-season grasses. It is lower in protein and energy, especially as it matures. Sheep grazing bermudagrass often need supplemental protein to maintain good growth.

Bermudagrass is best used in the Southeast as a summer pasture, with cool-season annuals like ryegrass or small grains planted for winter and early spring grazing. It is also useful for parasite control because the hot, dry conditions on bermudagrass pastures reduce larval survival on the pasture.

## The Best Legume Species for Sheep Pastures

Legumes are the most valuable plants in a sheep pasture. They fix nitrogen from the air, which fertilizes the grasses around them. They are higher in protein and minerals than grasses. And several species have health benefits for sheep, including reduced parasite burdens.

### White Clover

White clover is the most important legume for sheep pastures in cool, moist regions. It is a low growing perennial that spreads by stolons. It tolerates close grazing and grows well in a mix with perennial ryegrass and other grasses.

White clover is highly palatable and nutritious. Sheep will graze it preferentially, which means you need to manage grazing to keep it from being overgrazed. It is also sensitive to drought and does not persist in dry conditions without irrigation.

There are three types of white clover: ladino, intermediate, and small. Ladino types are the largest and most productive but are less persistent under close grazing. Small types are the most persistent but produce less forage. Intermediate types are a good compromise for most sheep pastures.

White clover is best established by broadcasting seed onto a prepared seedbed or by frost seeding into existing pasture in late winter. It requires a soil pH above 6.0 and good phosphorus and potassium levels.

### Red Clover

Red clover is a short lived perennial that produces more forage than white clover. It is an excellent choice for sheep pastures, especially for finishing lambs. It is high in protein and energy and supports rapid weight gain.

Red clover also has a reputation for reducing parasite burdens in sheep. Some research suggests that the condensed tannins in red clover reduce the establishment of barber pole worm larvae in the gut. While the effect is not as strong as with chicory or birdsfoot trefoil, it is still valuable.

Red clover is easier to establish than white clover. It tolerates a wider range of soil conditions, including slightly acid soils. It is best used in a mix with orchardgrass or tall fescue for a two to three year pasture or hay stand.

The main weakness of red clover is its lack of persistence. It rarely lasts more than three years in a pasture. It is also more prone to causing bloat in sheep than white clover, though bloat is less common in sheep than in cattle.

### Alfalfa

Alfalfa is the highest quality legume for sheep. It is extremely high in protein, energy, and minerals. It supports excellent weight gain in lambs and high milk production in ewes. It is also deep rooted and drought tolerant.

Alfalfa is a perennial that can last five years or more under good management. It requires well drained soil with a pH above 6.5. It does not tolerate wet feet or acid soils.

The main challenge with alfalfa for sheep is grazing management. Alfalfa does not tolerate continuous grazing well. It needs a rotational system that allows it to regrow to a height of 8 to 10 inches between grazings. It also needs a rest period of 30 to 45 days, depending on the season.

Alfalfa can cause bloat in sheep, especially when it is lush and growing rapidly. This risk is highest when sheep are turned onto a fresh alfalfa pasture when they are hungry. You can reduce the risk by grazing alfalfa in a mix with grass and by never turning hungry sheep onto lush alfalfa.

### Birdsfoot Trefoil

Birdsfoot trefoil is a perennial legume that is gaining attention for sheep pastures because of its condensed tannin content. Tannins in birdsfoot trefoil have been shown to reduce parasite burdens and improve protein utilization in sheep.

Birdsfoot trefoil is less productive than alfalfa or red clover, but it is more persistent under grazing. It tolerates a wider range of soil conditions, including acid and poorly drained soils. It does not cause bloat, which makes it a safer choice than alfalfa for some producers.

Birdsfoot trefoil is best used in mixes with grasses for sheep pastures in the Northeast, the upper Midwest, and the Pacific Northwest. It is especially valuable for parasite management in organic or low-input systems.

### Lespedeza

Lespedeza, especially sericea lespedeza, is a warm-season legume that is highly valuable for sheep in the Southeast. It is extremely high in condensed tannins, which makes it effective for reducing barber pole worm burdens. The ACSRPC lists lespedeza as a valuable tool for parasite management in small ruminants.

Sericea lespedeza is a perennial that grows during the summer. It is drought tolerant and grows on poor, acid soils. It can be grazed or harvested as hay. Feeding lespedeza hay has been shown to reduce fecal egg counts in sheep.

The main limitation of lespedeza is that it is less productive than other legumes and is only adapted to the Southeast and mid-South. It also has a lower feed value than alfalfa or clover. But for sheep producers dealing with severe parasite pressure, it is an excellent addition to the pasture mix.

## The Best Forbs for Sheep Pastures

Forbs are broadleaf plants that are not legumes. Several forbs are valuable additions to sheep pastures because of their health benefits, drought tolerance, or grazing tolerance.

### Chicory

Chicory is a deep rooted perennial forb that is one of the best plants for sheep pastures. It is highly palatable, nutritious, and productive during the summer when cool-season grasses are dormant. It contains condensed tannins that reduce parasite burdens in sheep.

Chicory is especially valuable for finishing lambs. Lambs grazing chicory have shown excellent weight gains in research trials. The combination of high nutrition and parasite reduction makes chicory a powerful tool for pasture lamb production.

Chicory is best established by seeding into a prepared seedbed in spring or late summer. It needs good fertility and a pH above 6.0. It is a short lived perennial, lasting three to four years under good management. It is best used in a mix with clover and grass, or as a stand alone pasture for finishing lambs.

### Plantain

Plantain, especially the variety known as narrow leaf plantain or buckhorn plantain, is another forb with health benefits for sheep. It has moderate condensed tannin content and has been shown to reduce parasite burdens in some studies.

Plantain is drought tolerant and productive during summer. It establishes easily and tolerates a wide range of soil conditions. It is a good addition to sheep pasture mixes, especially in drier regions.

### Brassicas

Brassicas like turnips, rape, kale, and swedes are annual forages that are highly productive and nutritious. They are not perennials, so they are not part of a permanent pasture mix. But they are excellent for extending the grazing season and providing high quality forage for lambs in the fall.

Brassicas are high in energy and protein. They are especially valuable for finishing lambs in the fall when perennial pastures are declining. They can be planted after a small grain harvest or as part of a summer planting for fall grazing.

The main risk with brassicas is that they can cause nitrate poisoning or polioencephalomalacia (goat polio) if sheep eat too much too quickly. Introduce sheep to brassicas gradually and provide free choice hay or grass to reduce the risk.

## Poisonous Plants to Watch For

No discussion of pasture species for sheep is complete without addressing poisonous plants. Many common pasture weeds are toxic to sheep, and some ornamental plants are deadly. You need to know what is growing in your pastures before you turn sheep out.

### Common Poisonous Pasture Plants

Bracken fern is toxic to sheep and causes a condition called bracken poisoning, which affects the bone marrow. It is common in overgrazed pastures and along fence lines. Sheep usually avoid it when other forage is available, but they may eat it during drought or when pasture is short.

Buttercup is common in wet, poorly managed pastures. It causes irritation of the mouth and digestive tract. It is most toxic when it is green and growing. Sheep usually avoid it, but it can be a problem in overgrazed pastures.

Milkweed species are toxic to sheep, causing cardiac and respiratory failure. They are common in overgrazed pastures and along roadsides. Sheep may eat milkweed when other forage is scarce.

Nightshade species, including black nightshade and horsenettle, contain solanine, which is toxic to sheep. They are common in disturbed areas and overgrazed pastures.

St. John's wort causes photosensitivity in sheep, leading to severe sunburn on unpigmented skin. It is common in overgrazed pastures and dry, sunny areas.

Yew is an ornamental shrub that is extremely toxic to sheep. Even a small amount of yew foliage can kill a sheep. It is commonly planted around homes and farm buildings, and sheep will eat it if they have access.

### Managing Poisonous Plants

The best way to manage poisonous plants is to prevent them from becoming established. Maintain a dense, healthy pasture that outcompetes weeds. Avoid overgrazing, which opens the soil to weed invasion. Mow fence lines and waste areas regularly.

If you find poisonous plants in your pasture, remove them. Dig out individual plants or spot treat them with herbicide. For large infestations, you may need to renovate the pasture completely.

Walk your pastures regularly and learn to identify the poisonous plants common in your area. Your extension agent can help you identify unknown plants. If you suspect your sheep have eaten a poisonous plant, contact your veterinarian immediately.

## Designing a Pasture Mix for Your Farm

Once you understand your environment and the available species, you can design a pasture mix that fits your farm. The best mix for your neighbor may not be the best mix for you. Your goals, your management style, and your resources all matter.

### Step 1: Define Your Goals

Start by asking yourself what you need from your pasture. Are you a commercial producer finishing lambs for market? Are you a small flock owner keeping a few ewes for home meat and wool? Are you raising registered breeding stock that needs consistent nutrition year round?

The answers to these questions determine your mix. A commercial lamb finisher needs high quality, fast growing forages like perennial ryegrass, red clover, and chicory. A small flock owner may prefer a lower maintenance mix of tall fescue and white clover that persists for years with minimal management.

### Step 2: Assess Your Resources

Consider your land, equipment, and labor. Do you have irrigation? Can you afford to reseed every three to four years? Do you have the equipment to drill seed into a prepared seedbed, or do you need to broadcast seed and hope for rain?

If you have limited resources, choose persistent species that require less management. Tall fescue and white clover are a good low maintenance mix. If you have more resources, you can afford to plant more productive but shorter lived species like perennial ryegrass and red clover.

### Step 3: Match Species to Your Environment

Use the information from your soil test and your knowledge of your climate to narrow your species choices. Eliminate any species that will not survive your winters or summers. Eliminate any species that will not grow on your soil type.

Create a shortlist of species that are adapted to your area. Your extension agent can provide a list of recommended forage species for your county. The USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service also publishes plant guides for your region.

### Step 4: Build a Mix

A good sheep pasture mix includes a grass, a legume, and often a forb. The grass provides the bulk of the forage and the structure. The legume provides nitrogen and high quality protein. The forb provides diversity and health benefits.

A basic mix for a cool, moist region might include:

- Perennial ryegrass at 8 to 10 pounds per acre
- White clover at 2 to 3 pounds per acre
- Chicory at 2 to 3 pounds per acre

A mix for a drier region might include:

- Tall fescue (novel endophyte) at 10 to 12 pounds per acre
- Red clover at 4 to 6 pounds per acre
- Plantain at 2 to 3 pounds per acre

A mix for the Southeast might include:

- Bermudagrass (established separately)
- Sericea lespedeza at 15 to 20 pounds per acre
- Annual ryegrass overseeded in fall

### Step 5: Consider the Grazing System

Your grazing system determines which species will thrive. If you plan to rotational graze, you can plant more productive species that need rest periods. If you plan to set stock or continuously graze, you need species that tolerate close, continuous grazing.

Rotational grazing allows you to plant a wider range of species, including those that are less tolerant of grazing pressure. It also allows you to use species like chicory and red clover that need time to regrow between grazings.

### Step 6: Plan for the Whole Year

Think about your pasture needs across all seasons. Do you have enough forage in the summer when cool-season grasses go dormant? Do you have enough in the winter to reduce your hay feeding?

You may need to plant different species in different fields to cover the whole year. A field of tall fescue can provide winter stockpiled grazing. A field of bermudagrass or chicory can provide summer grazing. A field of annual ryegrass can provide early spring grazing.

## Establishing Your Sheep Pasture

Establishment is the most critical period in the life of a pasture. A good establishment gives you a productive stand for years. A poor establishment means weeds, thin stands, and eventual renovation.

### Soil Preparation

Start with your soil test. Apply lime and fertilizer according to the recommendations. Work the lime into the soil if possible. Do this several months before seeding.

Prepare a firm, weed free seedbed. Plow or till the soil to bury existing vegetation. Then harrow or cultipack to create a smooth, firm surface. The seedbed should be firm enough that your footprint makes only a shallow impression.

### Seeding Methods

You can establish pasture by drilling seed into a prepared seedbed, broadcasting seed and cultipacking, or frost seeding into existing pasture.

Drilling is the most reliable method. A no-till drill places the seed at the correct depth and ensures good soil contact. It works on both prepared seedbeds and existing sod. If you are drilling into existing sod, you need to suppress the existing vegetation first, either with herbicide or by heavy grazing.

Broadcasting works if you prepare a good seedbed and cultipack after seeding. The cultipacker presses the seed into the soil and ensures contact. Broadcasting is less reliable than drilling, especially in dry conditions.

Frost seeding is a low cost method for adding legumes to existing pasture. You broadcast seed in late winter when the ground is freezing and thawing. The freeze-thaw action works the seed into the soil. Frost seeding works best for small seeds like clover. It is less reliable for grasses.

### Seeding Rates and Depths

Seeding rates vary by species and method. Use the rates recommended by your extension service or seed supplier. As a general rule, drill seed at 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep. Do not plant seed too deep, or it will not emerge.

Small seeds like clover and chicory should be seeded at 1/4 inch or shallower. Larger seeds like ryegrass and tall fescue can be seeded at 1/2 inch. Brassicas should be seeded at 1/4 to 1/2 inch.

### Timing

The best time to seed cool-season forages is late summer or early fall, about six to eight weeks before the first killing frost. Fall seeding gives the plants time to establish before winter and provides a full season of growth the following year.

Spring seeding is a second option, but it is riskier. Spring seeded pastures face competition from summer weeds and often suffer from dry conditions in June and July. If you seed in spring, do it as early as possible, preferably in March or April.

Warm-season grasses like bermudagrass should be seeded in late spring when soil temperatures reach 65 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit.

### Managing the New Stand

Do not graze a new pasture until the plants are well established. This usually takes eight to twelve weeks, depending on the species and growing conditions. The plants need time to develop strong root systems before they can tolerate grazing.

Mow the new stand once or twice during establishment to control weeds. Do not let weeds shade out the young forage plants. If weed pressure is severe, you may need to use a selective herbicide.

## Grazing Management for Pasture Health

The best pasture mix in the world will fail without proper grazing management. Sheep are selective grazers. They eat the most palatable plants first and leave the less palatable plants for later. Without rotation, they will destroy the best plants in your mix and leave only the weeds.

### Rotational Grazing

Rotational grazing is the foundation of good pasture management. Divide your pasture into smaller paddocks and move sheep through them on a schedule. The number of paddocks and the length of stay depend on your pasture growth rate and your flock size.

A good starting point is to divide your pasture into at least four to eight paddocks. Move sheep every three to seven days, depending on the season. In spring when grass is growing fast, you can move more frequently. In summer when growth slows, you need longer rest periods.

The key is to give each paddock enough rest to recover before the sheep return. Cool-season grasses need 21 to 35 days of rest between grazings. Warm-season grasses need 30 to 45 days. Legumes need similar rest periods.

### Grazing Height

Grazing height matters for pasture health. Graze too short and you damage the growing points of the plants. Graze too tall and the plants become stemmy and less nutritious.

A good rule of thumb is to graze cool-season grasses to a residual height of 3 to 4 inches. This leaves enough leaf area for the plants to recover quickly. Graze warm-season grasses to 4 to 6 inches.

For legumes, grazing height depends on the species. White clover can be grazed short, to about 2 inches. Red clover and alfalfa should be grazed to 3 to 4 inches, leaving some stem for regrowth.

### Stock Density

Stock density is the number of animals per acre at any given time. Higher stock density in a rotational system forces sheep to eat all plants more evenly. It also concentrates manure, which distributes nutrients more evenly across the pasture.

In a rotational system, you can achieve high stock density by concentrating your flock in a small paddock for a short time. This is often called mob grazing or intensive rotational grazing. It works well for sheep because they are efficient grazers.

### Rest Periods

Rest periods are the time between grazings. They are the most important variable in pasture management. The rest period must be long enough for the plants to regrow and store energy for the next grazing.

In spring, rest periods of 21 to 28 days are usually sufficient. In summer, rest periods of 35 to 45 days may be needed. In fall, growth slows and rest periods may need to be even longer.

The best way to manage rest periods is to use a grazing chart or a simple calendar. Mark the date each paddock is grazed and the date it should be ready to graze again. Adjust the schedule based on pasture growth.

## Managing Parasites Through Pasture Management

Internal parasites are the biggest health challenge for grazing sheep. The barber pole worm is the most dangerous, as it feeds on blood and can cause severe anemia and death. The ACSRPC provides extensive guidance on managing parasites in small ruminants, and pasture management is a central part of their recommendations.

### The Parasite Life Cycle

Understanding the parasite life cycle is essential for pasture management. Adult worms live in the sheep's stomach and produce eggs that pass in the manure. The eggs hatch into larvae on the pasture. The larvae develop through several stages and eventually climb up grass blades, where sheep ingest them while grazing.

The time from egg to infective larva depends on temperature and moisture. In warm, moist conditions, it can be as short as five to seven days. In cool or dry conditions, it can take several weeks. The larvae survive best in cool, moist conditions and die in hot, dry conditions or freezing temperatures.

### Pasture Strategies for Parasite Control

The most effective pasture strategy for parasite control is to break the parasite life cycle. This means not grazing sheep on the same pasture when they are shedding eggs and when the larvae are infective.

One strategy is to use a "clean pasture" system. Graze lambs on pastures that have not been grazed by sheep for several months, or that have been grazed by cattle or horses. The larvae die off during the rest period, and the lambs are exposed to few parasites.

Another strategy is to graze sheep with other species. Cattle and horses do not share the same parasites as sheep. Grazing cattle or horses on sheep pasture for a season can break the parasite cycle. This is often called mixed species grazing.

A third strategy is to use forages with anthelmintic properties. Chicory, birdsfoot trefoil, and sericea lespedeza all contain condensed tannins that reduce parasite burdens in sheep. Planting these species in your pasture mix can reduce the need for deworming.

A fourth strategy is to avoid overgrazing. When sheep graze pasture too short, they are forced to eat closer to the manure pats, where parasite larvae are concentrated. Maintaining a grazing height of 3 to 4 inches reduces the risk of ingesting larvae.

### Monitoring Parasite Burdens

You cannot manage parasites without monitoring them. The FAMACHA system is a simple method for detecting anemia in sheep caused by barber pole worm. It compares the color of the sheep's lower eyelid to a chart. Sheep with pale eyelids are anemic and need treatment.

Fecal egg counts are a more precise monitoring tool. Your veterinarian or a diagnostic laboratory can count the number of parasite eggs in a manure sample. This tells you how heavily infected your sheep are and whether treatment is needed.

The ACSRPC recommends using targeted selective treatment, which means treating only the sheep that need it, rather than treating the whole flock. This reduces the selection pressure for drug resistance and allows some worms to remain in refugia, which dilutes resistant genes.

## Common Mistakes in [Sheep Pasture Management](/knowledge/animal-farming/sheep/sheep-pasture-management-rotational-grazing-nutrition-parasite-control)

Even experienced shepherds make mistakes with pasture management. Here are the most common problems and how to avoid them.

### Mistake 1: Skipping the Soil Test

Planting pasture without a soil test is like building a house without a foundation. You might get lucky, but you are more likely to waste time and money. Soil testing costs $10 to $20 and takes ten minutes of your time. It is the best investment you can make in your pasture.

### Mistake 2: Overgrazing

Overgrazing is the most common pasture mistake. It weakens plants, opens the soil to weeds, and increases parasite exposure. The solution is rotational grazing with adequate rest periods. If your pasture looks like a lawn, you are overgrazing.

### Mistake 3: Under grazing

Under grazing is less common than overgrazing but still problematic. When pasture grows too tall, it becomes stemmy and less nutritious. Sheep will not eat the stems, and the pasture quality declines. The solution is to graze more sheep or mow the excess growth.

### Mistake 4: Ignoring the Summer Slump

Cool-season grasses go dormant in summer heat. If you do not plan for this, your sheep will lose condition in July and August. The solution is to plant warm-season forages like bermudagrass or chicory, or to reduce your stocking rate during the summer.

### Mistake 5: Planting Too Many Species

A pasture mix with ten or more species sounds good in theory, but it is hard to manage. Each species has different establishment requirements, growth patterns, and grazing tolerances. A simple mix of two to four species is easier to manage and more reliable.

### Mistake 6: Not Managing Weeds

Weeds compete with forage plants for water, nutrients, and light. They also reduce pasture quality and can be toxic. The best weed control is a dense, healthy pasture. If weeds are a problem, mow them or use a selective herbicide.

### Mistake 7: Forgetting About Water

Sheep need clean, fresh water at all times. If your pasture does not have a reliable water source, your sheep will not graze it evenly. They will camp near the water and overgraze that area while ignoring the rest of the pasture. Install water systems that allow you to move water to each paddock.

### Mistake 8: Not Using Your Extension Agent

Your local extension agent is a free resource with years of experience in your area. They can help you with soil test interpretation, species selection, grazing management, and parasite control. Use them. They are there to help you succeed.

## Monitoring Your Pasture and Keeping Records

Good pasture management requires regular monitoring and recordkeeping. You cannot improve what you do not measure.

### Pasture Condition Scoring

A simple pasture condition score can help you track the health of your pasture over time. Walk your pasture and rate it on a scale of 1 to 5 for plant density, weed pressure, and forage quality. A score of 5 is a dense, weed free stand of productive forage. A score of 1 is a bare, weedy field.

Record these scores each month and track them over time. If you see a decline, you can take corrective action before the pasture degrades completely.

### Grazing Records

Keep a record of when each paddock is grazed and when it is rested. This helps you manage rest periods and avoid overgrazing. You can use a simple notebook, a spreadsheet, or a grazing app on your phone.

Record the date each paddock is grazed, the number of sheep, and the length of stay. Also record the date the paddock is ready to graze again. This information helps you plan your grazing rotation and adjust your stocking rate.

### Soil Test Records

Keep a record of your soil test results and the amendments you apply. Test your soil every three years and track changes over time. This helps you understand how your pasture is responding to your management.

### Forage Samples

If you are serious about pasture quality, take forage samples and have them analyzed. Your extension office can help you collect and submit samples. The analysis tells you the protein, energy, and mineral content of your pasture. This information helps you plan supplemental feeding.

### Animal Performance Records

Track your sheep's performance, including weight gain, body condition score, and fecal egg counts. This information tells you whether your pasture is meeting your flock's needs. If lambs are not gaining weight, your pasture may be lacking in quality or quantity.

## When to Call a Veterinarian or Extension Agent

Knowing when to call for help is an important skill. Do not wait until a problem becomes an emergency.

### Call Your Veterinarian When

Call your veterinarian immediately if you have a sick or injured sheep. Signs of a serious problem include:

- Sudden death in multiple sheep
- Severe anemia, indicated by very pale eyelids
- Difficulty breathing
- Inability to stand or walk
- Severe diarrhea
- Bloating or abdominal distension
- Signs of poisoning, such as tremors, seizures, or collapse

Also call your veterinarian if your sheep are not responding to deworming treatment. This may indicate drug resistance, which requires a different treatment approach.

### Call Your Extension Agent When

Call your extension agent when you have questions about pasture management, soil fertility, or forage selection. They can help you with:

- Interpreting soil test results
- Choosing forage species for your area
- Planning a pasture renovation
- Identifying weeds and poisonous plants
- Developing a grazing plan
- Managing parasites

Extension agents are especially valuable when you are starting a new pasture or renovating an old one. They can save you time and money by helping you avoid common mistakes.

### When to Renovate

If your pasture is severely degraded, renovation may be the best option. Signs that renovation is needed include:

- Less than 50 percent desirable forage cover
- Severe weed infestation
- Poor drainage that cannot be corrected
- Soil pH below 5.5 that has not responded to liming

Renovation can be done by killing the existing sod and reseeding, or by no-till drilling into the existing sod after suppressing it with herbicide. Your extension agent can help you decide which method is best for your situation.

## Frequently Asked Questions

### What is the best pasture for sheep?

The best pasture for sheep depends on your climate, soil, and management system. In cool, moist regions, a mix of perennial ryegrass, white clover, and chicory is an excellent choice. In drier regions, tall fescue with red clover works well. In the Southeast, bermudagrass with sericea lespedeza is a good option. The key is to match species to your environment and manage grazing carefully.

### How many sheep can I graze per acre?

Stocking rates vary widely depending on pasture productivity, climate, and management. A general rule is 2 to 6 ewes per acre in humid, productive regions, and 1 to 3 ewes per acre in drier regions. With intensive rotational grazing, you can sometimes run higher stocking rates. Start conservatively and adjust based on pasture condition and animal performance.

### Should I plant perennial ryegrass or tall fescue for sheep?

Both are good choices, but they serve different purposes. Perennial ryegrass is more palatable and digestible but less persistent and less drought tolerant. Tall fescue is more persistent and drought tolerant but less palatable. If you have good moisture and can reseed every few years, perennial ryegrass is excellent for finishing lambs. If you need a persistent, low maintenance pasture, choose novel endophyte tall fescue.

### How do I control parasites without deworming?

Pasture management is your best tool for parasite control. Use rotational grazing with long rest periods, graze sheep with cattle or horses to break the parasite cycle, plant forages with condensed tannins like chicory and birdsfoot trefoil, and avoid overgrazing. Use the FAMACHA system and fecal egg counts to monitor parasite burdens and treat only the sheep that need it. The ACSRPC provides detailed guidance on integrated parasite management.

### Can I graze sheep on alfalfa?

Yes, sheep can graze alfalfa, and it is highly nutritious. The main risks are bloat and overgrazing damage to the stand. Graze alfalfa in a rotational system with at least 30 days of rest between grazings. Never turn hungry sheep onto lush alfalfa. Mixing alfalfa with grass reduces the bloat risk.

### What is the best way to renovate an old sheep pasture?

The best method depends on the condition of the existing sod. If you have more than 50 percent desirable forage, you can improve the pasture by frost seeding clover, controlling weeds, and improving grazing management. If the pasture is severely degraded, you may need to kill the existing sod with herbicide, prepare a seedbed, and reseed. Take a soil test and apply lime and fertilizer before seeding.

### Are there pasture plants that are poisonous to sheep?

Yes, many plants are poisonous to sheep. Common ones include bracken fern, buttercup, milkweed, nightshade, and St. John's wort. Ornamental plants like yew are extremely toxic. Learn to identify poisonous plants in your area and remove them from your pasture. Maintain a dense, healthy pasture to prevent weeds from establishing.

### How often should I reseed my sheep pasture?

It depends on the species you plant. Perennial ryegrass may need reseeding every two to four years. Tall fescue and white clover can persist for many years with good management. Red clover is short lived and may need reseeding every two to three years. Chicory lasts three to four years. Test your soil and monitor your pasture condition to decide when to reseed.

## Related Farming Guides

This section will be populated with links to related farming guides on sheep management, pasture establishment, rotational grazing, parasite control, and forage selection.

## Related Clinical & Scientific Guides

* [Sheep Grazing Lease: Terms, Rates, and Legal Considerations](/knowledge/animal-farming/sheep/sheep-grazing-lease-terms-rates-and-legal-considerations)
* [Sheep Breed Selection for Meat, Wool, Dairy, and Low-Input Systems](/knowledge/animal-farming/sheep/sheep-breed-selection-for-meat-wool-dairy-and-low-input-systems)
* [Sheep Barn Flooring for Hoof Health: Best Materials and Practices](/knowledge/animal-farming/sheep/sheep-barn-flooring-hoof-health-materials-practices)


## References

- American Consortium for [Small Ruminant Parasite Control](/knowledge/veterinary-medicine/food-animal-medicine/small-ruminant-parasite-control-diagnostic-strategies-anthelmintic-stewardship) (ACSRPC): https://www.wormx.info/
- USDA APHIS Sheep Health: https://www.aphis.usda.gov/livestock-poultry-disease/sheep-goats
- FAO Sheep and Goat Production: https://www.fao.org/animal-production/en/
- FAO Animal Production and Health: https://www.fao.org/animal-production/en/
- WOAH (World Organisation for Animal Health): https://www.woah.org/en/home/

> This article is educational and is not a substitute for veterinary diagnosis, treatment, public-health guidance, or regulatory reporting.


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