# Sheep Manure Management: Composting, Storage, and Land Application ## Key Takeaways - Mature ewes produce approximately 1 to 1.5 pounds of manure daily, totaling 400-550 pounds annually, with a flock of 100 ewes generating 20-27 tons per year; this manure offers a balanced N-P-K of roughly 0.7-0.3-0.9, valuable for potassium and organic matter. - Effective composting requires reaching internal temperatures of 130-150°F for at least 15 days to eliminate pathogens and weed seeds, with sheep manure's favorable 15:1 to 20:1 carbon-to-nitrogen ratio facilitating this process, especially when supplemented with bedding like straw. - Manure storage must prevent nutrient loss and runoff into waterways, necessitating impermeable pads or covered structures, with a minimum 100-foot setback from wells, streams, and drainage ditches. - Land application rates for composted sheep manure range from 1-2 tons per acre for pasture maintenance to 4-5 tons per acre for depleted soils, contingent on soil testing to prevent phosphorus buildup and ensure crop nutrient needs are met. - A 120-day waiting period is mandated between raw manure application and harvest for crops eaten raw (e.g., root vegetables, leafy greens) to mitigate pathogen transmission risks, a requirement relaxed for properly composted material meeting specific temperature and duration standards. --- Sheep manure is one of the most valuable resources on a small farm or large operation, yet it is often treated as a waste problem rather than an asset. This guide covers the full spectrum of sheep manure management, from daily collection and safe storage to proper composting methods and land application that builds soil without harming water quality. It is written for sheep producers of all scales, including hobby farmers with a small flock, commercial operators managing hundreds of ewes, and agricultural educators who advise both groups. You will learn how to assess your manure output, choose a storage system that fits your setup, compost effectively to kill pathogens and weed seeds, and apply the finished product at rates that benefit pasture and crop ground without polluting nearby water sources. ## At a Glance - A mature ewe produces roughly 1 to 1.5 pounds of manure per day, totaling about 400 to 550 pounds per year. A flock of 100 ewes generates approximately 20 to 27 tons of manure annually. - Sheep manure is a balanced fertilizer with an approximate N-P-K value of 0.7-0.3-0.9 on a fresh basis, making it a moderate nutrient source that is especially valuable for its potassium and organic matter content. - Proper composting reaches internal temperatures of 130 to 150 degrees Fahrenheit for at least 15 days, which kills most pathogens, weed seeds, and fly larvae. - The carbon to nitrogen ratio of sheep manure is roughly 15:1 to 20:1, which means it composts well without needing much additional carbon, though adding straw or wood shavings from bedding helps create better structure. - Store manure on an impermeable pad or in a covered structure to prevent nutrient loss and runoff into waterways. Never pile manure directly on bare ground near streams, wells, or drainage ditches. - Apply composted sheep manure at rates of 1 to 2 tons per acre for pasture maintenance, or up to 4 to 5 tons per acre for heavily depleted soils. Always test soil first. - Do not apply fresh manure to crops that will be eaten raw, and wait at least 120 days between application and harvest for root crops and leafy greens that touch the soil. - Sheep manure is considered a cold manure because it breaks down relatively slowly compared to poultry or horse manure, which reduces the risk of burning plants when applied fresh in modest amounts. ## Understanding Sheep Manure: Composition and Value Before you can manage sheep manure well, you need to understand what you are working with. Sheep excrete a pelleted form of manure because of their digestive system. These small, dry pellets are easier to handle than the manure of cattle or pigs, and they have some distinct advantages in a composting system. ### Nutrient Content of Sheep Manure Sheep manure contains the three primary plant nutrients that crops need in the largest amounts: nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. On a fresh weight basis, sheep manure typically contains about 0.7 percent nitrogen, 0.3 percent phosphorus, and 0.9 percent potassium. These numbers vary with the age of the animal, its diet, and how the manure is handled after excretion. The nitrogen in fresh sheep manure is present in two main forms. About half is in a quickly available form that plants can use immediately. The other half is tied up in organic compounds that release slowly as microbes break them down in the soil. This slow-release characteristic makes sheep manure a good choice for building long-term soil fertility rather than providing a quick nutrient boost. Sheep manure also contributes significant organic matter to the soil. Organic matter improves soil structure, increases water-holding capacity, and feeds beneficial soil organisms. A soil that receives regular applications of composted sheep manure will gradually become easier to work, better at holding moisture during dry spells, and more resistant to erosion. ### Comparing Sheep Manure to Other Livestock Manures Sheep manure sits in the middle of the nutrient spectrum when compared to other common livestock manures. Poultry manure is much hotter, with nitrogen levels often exceeding 2 percent. Horse manure is more variable and often contains large amounts of bedding material that dilutes its nutrient value. Cattle manure is wetter and heavier, with a lower concentration of nutrients per pound. The carbon to nitrogen ratio of sheep manure is another important characteristic. This ratio determines how well the manure composts. Sheep manure typically has a C:N ratio of about 15:1 to 20:1, which is close to the ideal range of 25:1 to 30:1 for rapid composting. This means sheep manure will break down on its own without requiring large amounts of additional carbon-rich material, although adding straw or other bedding improves the process. ### Factors That Affect Manure Quality The nutrient content of sheep manure is not fixed. Several factors influence what comes out of the animal and what remains in the manure when you are ready to use it. Diet plays the largest role. Sheep on lush pasture produce manure that is higher in moisture and lower in dry matter than sheep on a hay or grain ration. The mineral content of the manure reflects the mineral content of the forage, so sheep grazing on soils that are deficient in selenium or copper will produce manure that is also low in those elements. Age and production stage matter as well. Lactating ewes consume more feed and produce more manure than dry ewes or rams. Growing lambs produce manure with a higher nitrogen content relative to phosphorus because they are building muscle and bone. The stage of the production cycle influences both the volume and the composition of the manure you collect. Storage and handling have the greatest impact on the final nutrient value of the manure you apply to your fields. Manure that is exposed to rain loses nitrogen through leaching and volatilization. Manure that is piled in the open and allowed to heat up loses nitrogen as ammonia gas. Proper storage and composting preserve the nutrients that were present when the manure left the animal. ## Estimating Your Manure Production Knowing how much manure your flock produces is the first step in planning a management system. Without a reasonable estimate, you cannot size your storage facility, plan your composting operation, or calculate application rates for your fields. ### Per-Animal Production Rates A mature ewe produces approximately 1 to 1.5 pounds of manure per day. This translates to roughly 400 to 550 pounds per year. A 150-pound ewe will produce slightly more than a 120-pound ewe, but the difference is small enough that the general range is useful for planning purposes. Rams produce more manure than ewes because they are larger. A mature ram may produce 1.5 to 2 pounds per day. Growing lambs produce less, with a 50-pound lamb generating about 0.5 to 0.75 pounds per day. If you are running a lambing operation, you need to account for the fact that your manure output jumps significantly during the lambing and lactation period because the ewes are eating more and the lambs are adding their own manure to the total. ### Flock-Level Calculations To calculate your total annual manure production, multiply the average daily production per animal by the number of animals and the number of days they are on your property. For example, a flock of 100 mature ewes produces about 100 to 150 pounds of manure per day. Over a full year, that is 18 to 27 tons. Remember to account for the days when animals are on pasture versus in confinement. Sheep that are on pasture deposit their manure directly onto the grazing area, where it returns nutrients to the soil without any handling on your part. Only the manure deposited in barns, sheds, and handling facilities needs to be collected, stored, and managed. ### Accounting for Bedding and Dilution The manure you collect from a barn is never pure manure. It is mixed with bedding material such as straw, wood shavings, or sawdust. The amount of bedding you use dramatically affects the volume of material you must handle. A typical deep-bedding system uses 2 to 4 pounds of bedding per ewe per day. This means a 100-ewe flock could be generating an additional 200 to 400 pounds of bedding material daily. When mixed with the manure, the total volume of material to manage is roughly double the volume of the manure alone. Bedding also affects the nutrient concentration of the final product. Straw bedding is low in nutrients and high in carbon, so it dilutes the nutrient content of the manure while improving the carbon to nitrogen ratio for composting. Wood shavings are even higher in carbon and break down more slowly than straw, which means they can tie up nitrogen in the soil during the first season after application if the compost is not fully finished. ## Designing a Manure Storage System A good storage system protects water quality, preserves nutrients, and makes the daily work of managing manure easier. The right system for your farm depends on your flock size, your climate, your available equipment, and the amount of time you can devote to manure handling. ### Regulatory Requirements and Siting Before you build any manure storage facility, check with your local conservation district, state department of agriculture, or county planning office about regulations that apply to your area. Many states have specific requirements for manure storage facilities, including minimum setbacks from wells, streams, and property lines. As a general rule, locate manure storage at least 100 feet from any well, stream, pond, or drainage ditch. If you are on sloping ground, place the storage uphill from water sources and downhill from your barn so that you can move manure by gravity or with minimal equipment. Avoid low areas that flood, and keep storage out of areas where runoff from the pile would flow toward neighbors or public roads. ### The Three Main Storage Options The simplest storage system is a covered pile on an impermeable pad. You create a pad of concrete or compacted clay, build a roof or tarp over the pile, and push the pile with a tractor or load out of it with a skid steer when you are ready to use the manure. This system works well for small to medium flocks and requires the least investment in equipment. A three-sided bunker with a concrete floor and a roof is the next step up. The walls keep the manure contained, the roof keeps rain off, and the open front gives you easy access with a loader. A bunker can be sized to hold a full season of manure production, which means you only need to handle the manure once or twice per year. For larger operations, a solid manure shed with a push wall or a manure pit with a slatted floor may be appropriate. These systems are more expensive to build but reduce labor significantly. A push wall is a solid wall that you push manure against with a tractor blade, packing it into a dense pile that sheds water and composts slowly. A slatted floor system over a pit allows urine to drain away from the solids, which reduces odor and makes the solids easier to handle. ### Managing Liquids and Runoff Sheep manure is relatively dry compared to cattle or pig manure, but urine and rainfall can still create liquid runoff that is high in nutrients and harmful to water quality. Your storage system must account for these liquids. If you are using a covered storage system, you eliminate most runoff problems because rain never contacts the manure. If you are using an uncovered pile, you need a runoff collection system that captures the liquid that drains from the pile and prevents it from reaching waterways. A simple grass filter strip below the pile can absorb much of the nutrient load, but a lined collection basin is more reliable. Inside the barn, urine can be managed separately from solid manure by using a sloped floor with a drain or by using enough absorbent bedding to soak up the liquid. Deep bedding systems that are cleaned out only once or twice per year allow the bedding to absorb urine and create a composted product right in the barn. ### Sizing Your Storage The size of your storage facility should be based on your manure production, the length of time you need to store manure between applications, and the volume of bedding you use. A good rule of thumb is to size the storage for at least six months of production, which gives you flexibility in when you spread the manure. To calculate the volume you need, multiply your daily manure and bedding production by the number of days of storage you want. A 100-ewe flock producing 300 to 500 pounds of material per day needs about 45 to 75 tons of storage capacity for a six-month period. At roughly 1 ton per cubic yard for composted material, this translates to 45 to 75 cubic yards of storage space. ## Composting Sheep Manure: The Complete Process Composting is the most effective way to transform raw sheep manure into a stable, safe, and pleasant-smelling soil amendment. A well-managed compost pile reaches temperatures that kill pathogens, weed seeds, and fly larvae, while converting the nutrients in the manure into forms that are more stable and less likely to leach away. ### Why Compost Sheep Manure Raw sheep manure can be applied directly to fields, but composting offers several important advantages. First, the heat of composting kills harmful bacteria such as E. coli and Salmonella that may be present in the manure. Second, the temperature destroys weed seeds that pass through the digestive system of the sheep. Third, composting reduces the volume of the material by 30 to 50 percent, which makes it easier to haul and spread. Fourth, finished compost is much less odorous than raw manure, which matters if you have neighbors nearby. Composting also changes the nitrogen in the manure. The readily available nitrogen in fresh manure is converted into more stable organic forms during the composting process. This means the nitrogen in compost is released more slowly in the soil, reducing the risk of nitrogen leaching into groundwater and providing a steadier supply of nutrients to plants over the growing season. ### The Science Behind the Pile Composting is a biological process driven by microorganisms that break down organic matter. These microbes need four things to work effectively: carbon, nitrogen, oxygen, and water. Your job as the compost manager is to provide these ingredients in the right proportions and conditions. The carbon to nitrogen ratio is the most critical factor. Microbes use carbon for energy and nitrogen for building their cell structures. If there is too much carbon, the pile decomposes slowly. If there is too much nitrogen, the pile becomes anaerobic and smelly, and nitrogen is lost as ammonia gas. Sheep manure has a favorable C:N ratio of about 15:1 to 20:1. To bring this into the ideal range of 25:1 to 30:1, you need to add carbon-rich material. Straw, dry leaves, and wood shavings all work well. If you are collecting manure with straw bedding, the ratio is often close to ideal without any additional carbon. Oxygen is essential for aerobic decomposition, which is fast and produces little odor. Anaerobic decomposition, which happens when oxygen is lacking, is slow and produces foul-smelling gases. You maintain oxygen in the pile by building it with a loose structure, turning it regularly, or using a forced-air system. Moisture content should be between 40 and 60 percent. The material should feel like a wrung-out sponge. If it is too dry, the microbes go dormant. If it is too wet, the pile becomes waterlogged and anaerobic. ### Building the Compost Pile Start by gathering your materials. You need a source of sheep manure, a source of carbon-rich bulking material, and a location for the pile that is convenient to reach with equipment. Choose a site that is level, well-drained, and at least 100 feet from water sources. If you are composting on bare ground, consider laying down a base of coarse wood chips or gravel to improve drainage and prevent the pile from sitting in standing water. Build the pile in layers. Start with a layer of coarse material such as straw or wood chips to allow air to enter from the bottom. Add alternating layers of manure and carbon material, wetting each layer as you go. The goal is to create a pile that is at least 3 feet tall and 3 feet wide, because smaller piles do not hold heat well. The pile can be as large as you can manage with your equipment, but piles wider than 8 to 10 feet are difficult to turn effectively. The pile should heat up within 2 to 5 days. The internal temperature should rise to between 130 and 150 degrees Fahrenheit. Use a compost thermometer with a long probe to monitor the temperature at the center of the pile. If the pile does not heat up, it is likely too dry, too wet, or lacking in nitrogen. ### Turning and Monitoring Turn the pile when the internal temperature begins to drop from its peak, which usually happens after 3 to 7 days. Turning brings oxygen back into the pile and redistributes the material so that the outer portions, which did not heat as much, move to the center. Aim to turn the pile 3 to 5 times over the first 3 to 4 weeks. Each turn should bring the temperature back up, though the peaks will get progressively lower as the readily available nutrients are consumed. After 4 to 6 weeks, the pile will no longer heat up significantly after turning, which signals that the active composting phase is complete. The total time from building the pile to finished compost is typically 3 to 6 months, depending on the season, the size of the pile, and how often you turn it. Piles built in late fall will go dormant over the winter and finish in the spring. Piles built in warm weather with regular turning can be finished in as little as 6 to 8 weeks. ### Signs That Compost Is Finished Finished compost is dark brown or black, crumbly, and has an earthy smell. It should not have any recognizable pieces of manure or bedding. The volume will have decreased by 30 to 50 percent from the original pile. A simple test for readiness is the bag test. Place a handful of moist compost in a sealed plastic bag and leave it for a week. If the bag inflates with gas, the compost is still active and needs more time. If the bag stays flat, the compost is stable and ready to use. ### Common Composting Problems and Solutions If your pile smells like ammonia, it has too much nitrogen and not enough carbon. Add straw, dry leaves, or shredded paper and turn the pile to mix it in. If the pile smells like rotten eggs, it is anaerobic, meaning it lacks oxygen. Turn the pile immediately to introduce air, and check that the moisture content is not too high. Add dry, coarse material if the pile is soggy. If the pile is not heating up, it may be too dry, too small, or lacking in nitrogen. Add water, make the pile larger, or mix in fresh manure or a nitrogen source such as alfalfa meal. If the pile attracts flies, it is not heating properly or is not being turned often enough. Flies breed in the cooler outer layers of the pile. Turning the pile moves those layers to the hot center and kills the larvae. ## Land Application of Sheep Manure and Compost The ultimate goal of sheep manure management is to return the nutrients and organic matter to the soil where they benefit plant growth. Proper application rates and timing protect water quality while maximizing the value of the manure as a fertilizer. ### Testing Your Soil First Before you apply any manure or compost, test your soil. A basic soil test from your state university extension service or a private soil testing laboratory will tell you the current nutrient levels, the soil pH, and the organic matter content. This information is essential for determining how much manure to apply. Collect soil samples from each field or pasture you plan to amend. Take cores from 10 to 15 locations per field, mix them together, and submit a representative sample. Test at least once every 3 years, and more often if you are applying manure regularly. ### Calculating Application Rates The application rate depends on the nutrient content of your manure or compost, the nutrient needs of the crop or pasture, and the current nutrient levels in your soil. A soil test will recommend specific rates for nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium based on your crop and expected yield. As a general starting point, apply composted sheep manure at 1 to 2 tons per acre for pasture maintenance. For vegetable gardens or heavily depleted soils, you can apply up to 4 to 5 tons per acre. These rates provide a moderate nutrient boost without overloading the soil with phosphorus, which can build up over time and become an environmental problem. Fresh manure can be applied at lower rates, typically 2 to 3 tons per acre, because the nutrients are more concentrated and more readily available. However, fresh manure should only be applied to fields that will be planted to crops that are not eaten raw, or applied well in advance of planting to allow time for breakdown. ### Timing of Application The best time to apply manure depends on your climate, your cropping system, and whether you are using fresh manure or compost. For pasture application, apply compost in late fall or early spring. Fall application allows the nutrients to be incorporated into the soil over the winter, but it also risks nutrient loss if the ground freezes before the manure is incorporated. Spring application is safer for nutrient retention but requires that you have time to spread before the grass starts growing rapidly. For crop fields, apply manure as close to planting as possible, and incorporate it into the soil within 24 to 48 hours of application. Incorporation by tillage or injection reduces nitrogen loss through volatilization and reduces the risk of runoff. Do not apply manure to frozen or snow-covered ground. The manure will sit on the surface until the ground thaws, and the first runoff event will carry nutrients into nearby waterways. ### Application Methods The method you use to apply manure affects both nutrient retention and uniformity. The most common methods for sheep manure are solid spreading with a manure spreader, incorporation by tillage, and injection for liquid manure. A box spreader or spinner spreader distributes solid manure or compost across the field. Calibrate your spreader to ensure uniform application at the desired rate. The best way to calibrate is to spread a known weight of material over a measured area and adjust the spreader settings until you achieve the target rate. After spreading solid manure, incorporate it into the soil as soon as possible. Incorporation within 24 hours can reduce nitrogen losses by 50 percent or more compared to leaving the manure on the surface. A disc, chisel plow, or cultivator all work for incorporation. ### Managing Nutrient Buildup One of the main challenges with repeated manure application is phosphorus buildup in the soil. Plants need phosphorus, but they use far less of it than they do nitrogen. Because manure contains both nutrients in a relatively fixed ratio, applying manure to meet the nitrogen needs of a crop will often apply more phosphorus than the crop can use. The excess phosphorus accumulates in the soil and can eventually reach levels that threaten water quality. If runoff carries phosphorus-rich soil into streams or lakes, it can cause algae blooms and degrade aquatic habitats. To prevent phosphorus buildup, monitor your soil phosphorus levels with regular soil tests. If phosphorus levels climb above the optimum range for your crop, reduce your manure application rate or stop applying manure to that field for a season or two. You can also apply manure to fields with lower phosphorus levels and use commercial nitrogen fertilizer to meet the nitrogen needs of fields where phosphorus is already high. ### Manure Application and [Food Safety](/knowledge/bacteria/livestock-bacteria/cooking-chicken-bacteria-prevention) If you are growing vegetables or other food crops, you need to be careful about the timing of manure application relative to harvest. Fresh manure can contain pathogens that survive in the soil and contaminate crops. The National Organic Program standards require a waiting period of 120 days between the application of raw manure and the harvest of crops that come into direct contact with the soil, such as root vegetables and leafy greens. For crops that do not touch the soil, such as trellised tomatoes or sweet corn, the waiting period is 90 days. Composted manure has different rules because the heat of composting kills most pathogens. The National Organic Program requires that compost reach and maintain a temperature between 131 and 170 degrees Fahrenheit for 15 days, with at least 5 turnings, to qualify as fully composted. Compost that meets this standard can be applied without the harvest waiting period, though it is still wise to avoid applying any manure-based product to crops that will be eaten raw within a few weeks of harvest. ## Common Mistakes in Sheep Manure Management Even experienced farmers make mistakes with manure. Understanding the most common problems will help you avoid them. ### Applying Fresh Manure Too Heavily Fresh sheep manure is concentrated enough that overapplication can burn plants, especially young seedlings. The readily available nitrogen in fresh manure can damage roots and foliage. Start with conservative application rates and increase only after you see how your soil and crops respond. ### Storing Manure Near Water Manure piles placed near streams, wells, or drainage ditches are a water quality hazard. Rainwater running through the pile picks up nitrogen, phosphorus, and pathogens and carries them into the water. Always maintain at least a 100-foot setback from water sources, and ideally store manure under cover or on an impermeable pad. ### Ignoring the Carbon to Nitrogen Ratio If you compost sheep manure without adding enough carbon, you will lose nitrogen as ammonia gas and create a smelly, sticky pile. If you add too much carbon, the pile will break down slowly and may not reach temperatures high enough to kill weed seeds and pathogens. Test the ratio by feel and adjust as you build the pile. ### Spreading on Frozen or Saturated Ground Manure applied to frozen ground or saturated soil sits on the surface where it is vulnerable to washing away in the next rain. This wastes the nutrients and pollutes waterways. Wait until the ground is workable, and avoid application when heavy rain is forecast. ### Not Testing Soil or Manure Applying manure without knowing the nutrient content of either the manure or the soil is guesswork. You may apply too little to meet crop needs, or too much and create environmental problems. Regular testing of both soil and manure is inexpensive compared to the cost of wasted fertilizer or environmental damage. ### Forgetting About Flies and Odors A poorly managed manure pile creates fly problems for you and odor problems for your neighbors. Regular turning of compost piles, prompt cleanup of spilled manure, and proper storage all reduce fly breeding and odor. If flies are a persistent problem, consider adding a fly control program that includes both manure management and targeted insecticide use. ## Monitoring and Recordkeeping Good manure management requires that you track what you produce, how you handle it, and where you apply it. Simple records help you make better decisions and provide documentation if you are ever inspected by a regulatory agency. ### What to Record Keep a manure management log that includes the following information for each batch of manure you handle: - The date you collected or removed the manure from the barn - The number and type of animals that produced the manure - The approximate volume or weight of manure and bedding - Where you stored the manure and for how long - The dates you turned compost piles and the temperatures you measured - The date and location of each land application - The application rate and method used - Weather conditions at the time of application ### Using Records to Improve Review your records at the end of each year to identify patterns and opportunities for improvement. Are you producing more manure than you can use? Are certain fields receiving more nutrients than they need? Are your compost piles reaching adequate temperatures consistently? Use your records to adjust your management over time. You may find that you can reduce bedding use, change your application timing, or shift manure to fields with lower nutrient levels. The goal is continuous improvement toward a system that is efficient, environmentally sound, and productive. ### Regulatory Recordkeeping If you operate under a concentrated animal feeding operation permit or if your state requires nutrient management planning, you may have specific recordkeeping obligations. Check with your state department of agriculture or your local conservation district to understand what records you are required to keep and for how long. ## When to Call a Veterinarian or Extension Agent Most manure management issues are not emergencies, but there are times when you should seek professional help. ### Veterinary Concerns Call your veterinarian if you notice a sudden change in the consistency or frequency of your sheep's manure that affects multiple animals. Scouring (diarrhea) in multiple sheep can indicate a contagious disease, a feed problem, or a parasitic infection. Bloody manure, manure with a foul odor, or manure that is accompanied by signs of illness such as fever, lethargy, or reduced appetite are all reasons to call. A veterinarian can help you determine whether the problem is infectious, nutritional, or environmental. They can also advise you on whether you need to change your manure handling practices to prevent the spread of disease within your flock. ### Extension Agent Assistance Your local cooperative extension agent is your best resource for questions about manure nutrient content, soil testing, compost management, and application rates. Extension agents can help you interpret soil test results, calculate application rates for your specific crops, and connect you with resources on manure management regulations. Extension services also offer workshops and publications on composting, nutrient management, and water quality protection. Many states have a nutrient management specialist who can provide on-farm assistance with developing a manure management plan. ### When You Need a Professional Soil or Manure Test If you have not tested your soil in the past 3 years, or if you are starting to apply manure to a new field, have both your soil and your manure tested before you spread. A basic soil test costs between $10 and $25, and a manure test costs a similar amount. The information you gain will help you avoid wasting nutrients or creating environmental problems. ## Frequently Asked Questions ### Can I apply fresh sheep manure directly to my garden? Yes, but with caution. Fresh sheep manure can burn plants because of its nitrogen content, and it can contain pathogens that are harmful to humans. The safest approach is to compost the manure before applying it to a vegetable garden. If you apply fresh manure, work it into the soil in the fall, at least 120 days before you plant crops that will be harvested and eaten raw. For flower beds and ornamental plantings, fresh manure can be applied in modest amounts and worked into the soil. ### How long does it take for sheep manure to compost? With proper management, sheep manure compost is ready in 3 to 6 months. The active composting phase takes 4 to 6 weeks, during which you turn the pile 3 to 5 times and the internal temperature reaches 130 to 150 degrees Fahrenheit. After the active phase, the pile needs a curing period of 1 to 3 months, during which the microbes finish breaking down the remaining organic matter and the compost stabilizes. ### Does sheep manure smell bad? Fresh sheep manure has a mild odor compared to cattle or pig manure, because it is drier and contains less readily decomposable material. A well-managed compost pile should have an earthy smell, not a foul one. If your manure pile smells like ammonia or rotten eggs, it is not being managed properly. The pile likely needs more carbon, more oxygen, or better moisture control. ### How much sheep manure should I put on my pasture? A typical maintenance application is 1 to 2 tons of composted sheep manure per acre per year. If your soil test shows low nutrient levels or your pasture is in poor condition, you can apply up to 4 tons per acre for the first year or two. Always base your application rate on a soil test, and monitor phosphorus levels to avoid buildup over time. ### Is sheep manure good for all types of plants? Sheep manure is a balanced, moderate fertilizer that benefits most plants. It is especially good for vegetables, fruit trees, and pasture grasses. The potassium content is particularly valuable for root crops and fruit production. Because it is a cold manure, it is less likely to burn plants than poultry or horse manure, but it is still best to compost it before use on sensitive plants. ### Can sheep manure be used as a top dressing for established pastures? Yes. Composted sheep manure can be spread on the surface of established pastures without incorporation. The compost will break down slowly and release nutrients over the growing season. Fresh manure should be incorporated into the soil if possible, but if you must top dress with fresh manure, apply it in late fall or early spring when the grass is not actively growing and the risk of runoff is low. ### How do I store sheep manure over the winter? The best approach is to store manure in a covered structure or under a tarp on an impermeable pad. This keeps rain off the pile, preserves nutrients, and prevents runoff. If you cannot cover the pile, at least place it on a pad and collect the runoff in a grass filter strip or lined basin. Do not pile manure near streams, wells, or drainage ditches. ### What is the difference between hot and cold manure? Hot manure refers to manure that produces significant heat as it decomposes, such as poultry, horse, or pig manure. These manures are high in nitrogen and can burn plants if applied fresh. Cold manure, such as sheep, goat, and cattle manure, decomposes more slowly and produces less heat. It contains nitrogen in a more stable form and is less likely to burn plants, though it should still be composted or applied with care. ## Related Farming Guides This section will be populated with links to related guides on sheep management, pasture improvement, composting, and soil fertility. Check back for updated recommendations on companion articles that will help you build a complete [sheep farming](/knowledge/animal-farming/sheep/sheep-farming-flock-nutrition-grazing-lambing-parasite-risk-and-welfare) system. ## Related Clinical & Scientific Guides * [Sheep Grazing Lease: Terms, Rates, and Legal Considerations](/knowledge/animal-farming/sheep/sheep-grazing-lease-terms-rates-and-legal-considerations) * [Sheep Breed Selection for Meat, Wool, Dairy, and Low-Input Systems](/knowledge/animal-farming/sheep/sheep-breed-selection-for-meat-wool-dairy-and-low-input-systems) * [Sheep Barn Flooring for Hoof Health: Best Materials and Practices](/knowledge/animal-farming/sheep/sheep-barn-flooring-hoof-health-materials-practices) ## References - American Consortium for [Small Ruminant Parasite Control](/knowledge/veterinary-medicine/food-animal-medicine/small-ruminant-parasite-control-diagnostic-strategies-anthelmintic-stewardship) (ACSRPC): https://www.wormx.info/ - USDA APHIS Sheep Health: https://www.aphis.usda.gov/livestock-poultry-disease/sheep-goats - FAO Sheep and Goat Production: https://www.fao.org/animal-production/en/ - FAO Animal Production and Health: https://www.fao.org/animal-production/en/ - WOAH (World Organisation for Animal Health): https://www.woah.org/en/home/ > This article is educational and is not a substitute for veterinary diagnosis, treatment, public-health guidance, or regulatory reporting.