# Sheep Feeding Equipment: Hay Racks, Feeders, and Waterers


## Key Takeaways

- **Hay waste is a significant economic drain:** Poorly designed hay racks can lead to 20-40% hay loss, whereas well-designed racks with solid bottoms and appropriate opening heights can reduce waste to under 10%. This directly impacts feed costs and nutrient availability.
- **Feeder design must accommodate natural sheep feeding posture:** Sheep eat with their heads down; feeders should be low enough to allow this natural posture, with the feed surface 12-18 inches above the standing surface, to prevent neck strain and ensure adequate intake.
- **Water access is critical and non-negotiable for flock health:** Mature ewes require 1-2 gallons of clean, ice-free water daily, increasing significantly during lactation or hot weather, as dehydration severely impacts feed intake and overall health.
- **Adequate feeding space mitigates social hierarchy issues and disease transmission:** Providing 12-16 inches of trough space per ewe for grain and multiple hay feeding points (1 per 10-15 sheep) reduces bullying and competition, while regular cleaning of water troughs (weekly) and feeders prevents pathogen spread.
- **Material selection and construction impact durability and safety:** Sheep are hard on equipment; durable materials like galvanized steel, treated lumber, and heavy-duty plastic are essential, and smooth edges, countersunk bolts, and appropriate bar spacing prevent injuries like head entrapment or wool/skin tearing.

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Feeding sheep is one of the most frequent jobs on any farm, and the equipment you choose determines how much hay is wasted, how much labor you spend, and how healthy your flock stays. This guide covers the full range of sheep feeding equipment, focusing on hay racks, grain feeders, and waterers. It is written for small and mid-sized flock owners, homesteaders, and commercial producers who want practical, buildable, and buyable solutions for their operations.

## At a Glance

- **Hay waste is your biggest hidden cost.** Poorly designed hay racks can waste 20 to 40 percent of your hay. A good rack with a solid bottom and proper opening height keeps waste under 10 percent.
- **Match the feeder opening to the animal.** Lambs need smaller openings than mature ewes. Adjustable or multiple-sized openings work best for mixed flocks.
- **Sheep eat with their heads down.** Feeders should be low enough to allow natural posture. Raising feeders too high causes neck strain and reduces intake.
- **Water is non-negotiable.** Sheep need clean, ice-free water year round. A mature ewe drinks 1 to 2 gallons per day, more when lactating or in hot weather.
- **Separate feeding areas reduce bullying.** Provide at least 12 to 16 inches of trough space per ewe when feeding grain, and multiple hay feeding points for every 10 to 15 sheep.
- **Clean equipment prevents disease.** Scrub water troughs weekly, remove moldy hay daily, and disinfect feeders between groups.
- **Buy or build for durability.** Sheep are hard on equipment. Galvanized steel, treated lumber, and heavy-duty plastic last longer than cheap alternatives.

## Why Feeding Equipment Matters More Than You Think

The way you deliver feed affects every part of your sheep operation. It influences feed costs, animal health, labor time, and even pasture management. Many flock owners focus on buying quality hay or balanced grain, then undermine that investment with feeders that waste feed or cause injury.

Feed waste is the most obvious problem. When hay falls on the ground and gets trampled, sheep will not eat it. That wasted hay represents money spent and nutrients lost. A ewe consumes about 4 to 6 pounds of hay per day in winter. If your feeder wastes 30 percent of that, you are buying nearly half again as much hay as your sheep actually eat. On a flock of 50 ewes fed for 120 days, that can mean several tons of wasted hay per year.

Feeders also affect animal behavior. Sheep have a social hierarchy, and [dominant](/blog/careers/dominant-definition-biology) animals will push subordinates away from feed. If you have only one feeding point, timid sheep may go hungry even when you put out enough total feed. This is especially problematic for young lambs, pregnant ewes, and animals at the bottom of the pecking order.

Injury is another concern. Poorly designed feeders have sharp edges, narrow openings that trap heads, or protruding bolts that catch wool and skin. Sheep can bruise their necks, tear their ears, or get stuck and panic. A panicked sheep can injure itself or others in the process.

Finally, feeding equipment affects disease transmission. When multiple sheep eat from the same trough, they share saliva and nasal discharge. This can spread respiratory diseases, parasites, and other pathogens. Equipment that is easy to clean and that minimizes direct contact between animals reduces this risk.

The goal of this guide is to help you choose or build equipment that minimizes waste, promotes natural feeding behavior, reduces injury risk, and is easy to maintain. We will cover each type of equipment in detail, provide step-by-step guidance for common designs, and explain how to monitor and adjust your setup over time.

## Hay Racks and Hay Feeders

Hay racks, also called hay feeders, are the most common piece of sheep feeding equipment. They hold loose hay, bales, or hay cubes in a way that lets sheep pull out mouthfuls without trampling the rest. A good hay rack reduces waste, keeps hay off the ground, and allows multiple animals to eat at once.

### How Sheep Eat Hay

Understanding how sheep eat helps you design a better hay rack. Sheep are grazers by nature. They prefer to eat with their heads down, close to the ground. They use their lips and teeth to grasp forage, then tear it with a quick jerk of the head. Their mouths are relatively narrow, about 2 to 3 inches wide, and they prefer to take small mouthfuls.

When you offer hay in a rack, you are asking sheep to adapt their natural feeding behavior. The rack should allow them to keep their heads in a relatively natural position, pull hay easily through an opening, and see what they are eating. Racks that are too high force sheep to reach up, which strains their necks and reduces how much they eat. Racks with openings that are too small frustrate sheep and may trap their heads. Racks with openings that are too large let sheep pull out large clumps that fall to the ground.

### Key Design Principles for Hay Racks

The following principles apply to almost any hay rack design:

**Opening height.** The top of the hay pile should be at or slightly below the sheep's shoulder height when the animal is standing naturally. For mature ewes, this is about 24 to 30 inches from the ground. For lambs, it is lower, about 18 to 22 inches. If the rack is too high, sheep will stretch their necks upward, which is uncomfortable and reduces intake.

**Opening width.** The vertical space between bars or slats should be 5 to 7 inches for mature sheep. This lets a sheep insert its head and pull hay, but prevents it from climbing into the feeder or pulling out huge clumps. For lambs, 4 to 5 inches is better. Some feeders have adjustable bars so you can change the spacing as lambs grow.

**Solid bottom.** A solid bottom or tray beneath the hay is essential. This catches small pieces that fall as sheep eat. Sheep will clean up these bits rather than trampling them into the ground. A solid bottom also keeps hay off the soil, reducing contamination with dirt and manure.

**Head position.** The feed surface should be at a height that allows sheep to eat with their heads slightly lowered. For most designs, the hay surface should be 12 to 18 inches above the sheep's standing surface. This is lower than many people expect.

**Multiple access points.** Sheep like to eat side by side. Provide at least 12 inches of feeder space per ewe, and ideally 15 to 18 inches. If you use a round bale feeder, provide access around the entire circumference. For a linear rack, make it long enough that all sheep can eat at once without crowding.

**Stability.** The feeder must not tip over when sheep push against it. A sheep leaning on a feeder can easily tip a lightweight rack. Build or buy feeders with a wide base or anchor them to the ground or fence.

**Safety.** All edges should be smooth. Bolts should be countersunk or covered. Bars should be spaced so sheep cannot get their heads stuck. Avoid designs with V-shaped openings that narrow toward the bottom, as these can trap a sheep's head.

### Types of Hay Racks

There are several common hay rack designs. Each has strengths and weaknesses depending on your flock size, barn setup, and budget.

**Corner hay racks.** These are triangular racks that fit into a corner of a pen or barn. They attach to two walls and have slats on the two open sides. Sheep can access hay from both sides. This is a space-efficient design for small pens and works well for one to five sheep. The main drawback is limited access, so dominant sheep can monopolize the feeder.

**Wall-mounted hay racks.** These attach to a wall or fence and hold hay in a basket or trough with slats on one side. They are simple, inexpensive, and easy to build. They work well for small flocks and for feeding animals individually. The drawback is that only one side is accessible, so you need enough length for all animals to eat at once.

**Stand-alone A-frame racks.** These are freestanding racks shaped like an inverted V or A. Hay is placed in the center, and sheep eat through slats on both sides. They are portable and can be moved around a pasture or barn. They work well for 10 to 30 sheep. The A-frame design sheds rain and snow, keeping hay drier in outdoor settings. The main drawback is that they can be tipped by large sheep, so they need a wide base or anchoring.

**Round bale feeders.** These are circular or square frames designed to hold a round bale. They come in two main styles: ring feeders with slats around the outside, and cradle feeders that hold the bale off the ground. Ring feeders allow sheep to eat from all sides. Cradle feeders have a bottom that holds the bale, reducing waste. For large flocks, round bale feeders are the most efficient option. For small flocks, they are usually impractical because the bale will spoil before the sheep can finish it.

**Hay bunks.** These are long, trough-like feeders with slats or bars on one or both sides. They are common in commercial operations and can be built from wood, metal, or plastic. Hay is placed in the trough, and sheep eat through the bars. Hay bunks are efficient, allow many animals to eat at once, and are relatively easy to clean. They are the best choice for flocks of 20 or more.

**Hay nets and bags.** These are mesh bags that hold hay and are hung at an appropriate height. They are popular for small flocks and for [feeding horses](/knowledge/veterinary-medicine/equine-care/feeding-horses-guide), but they have drawbacks for sheep. Sheep can get their heads caught in the mesh, and the nets can be torn. If you use a hay net, choose one with large openings (4 inches or more) and hang it low enough for sheep to eat comfortably. Some producers use slow-feeder hay nets to reduce waste, but these can frustrate sheep and are not recommended as a primary feeding method.

### Step-by-Step: Building a Simple Wall-Mounted Hay Rack

This is a practical design for a small flock of 2 to 10 sheep. It is inexpensive to build and can be completed in an afternoon with basic tools.

**Materials needed:**

- One sheet of 3/4-inch plywood, 4 feet by 8 feet
- Two 2x4 boards, 8 feet long
- One 2x4 board, 4 feet long
- Galvanized screws, 2.5 inches and 3 inches
- A saw (circular saw or hand saw)
- A drill with screwdriver bits
- Measuring tape
- Sandpaper or a file

**Step 1: Cut the plywood.**

Cut the plywood into two pieces: one piece 4 feet by 2 feet for the back panel, and one piece 4 feet by 2 feet for the bottom tray. If you want a deeper feeder, make the bottom tray wider.

**Step 2: Cut the 2x4s.**

Cut the two 8-foot 2x4s into four pieces: two pieces at 4 feet each for the top and bottom rails, and two pieces at 3 feet each for the side supports. Cut the 4-foot 2x4 into two pieces at 2 feet each for the front legs.

**Step 3: Assemble the frame.**

Attach the two 4-foot 2x4s vertically to the back panel, one on each side. These are the side supports. Use 3-inch screws driven through the plywood into the 2x4s.

**Step 4: Attach the bottom tray.**

Attach the bottom tray to the front of the frame at the bottom. The tray should be level and extend outward from the back panel by about 12 inches. Screw through the tray into the side supports.

**Step 5: Add the front slats.**

Cut the remaining 2x4 pieces into slats. For a 4-foot feeder, use 4 to 5 slats spaced 5 to 6 inches apart. Attach the slats vertically to the front of the feeder, from the bottom tray to the top rail. Use 2.5-inch screws.

**Step 6: Mount the feeder.**

Mount the feeder to a wall or fence at a height where the bottom tray is 18 to 24 inches above the ground. Use heavy screws or bolts through the back panel into the wall structure. Make sure the feeder is level and secure.

**Step 7: Sand and finish.**

Sand all edges and corners to remove splinters. If the feeder will be outdoors, apply a non-toxic exterior paint or sealant to protect the wood.

**Step 8: Test and adjust.**

Place hay in the feeder and observe your sheep. Watch for waste, head trapping, or difficulty eating. Adjust slat spacing or height as needed.

### Common Mistakes with Hay Racks

**Building the rack too high.** This is the most common mistake. Sheep should not have to reach up to eat. A rack that is too high causes neck strain, reduces intake, and may lead to weight loss in winter.

**Using slat spacing that is too wide.** If the openings are too large, sheep pull out large clumps of hay that drop to the ground. This wastes hay and encourages selective eating, where sheep pick out the best bits and leave the rest.

**Using slat spacing that is too narrow.** If the openings are too small, sheep cannot get their heads in comfortably. They may rub their necks raw trying to reach the hay, or they may give up and go hungry.

**No solid bottom.** Without a solid tray, hay falls to the ground and is wasted. A solid bottom also keeps hay off the soil, reducing parasite exposure.

**Not enough space.** If the feeder is too short, dominant sheep will block access. Timid sheep may not get enough to eat, leading to uneven body condition.

**Building a feeder that tips.** A lightweight feeder that tips when sheep lean on it is dangerous and wasteful. Anchor your feeder or make the base wide enough to be stable.

**Using materials that splinter or corrode.** Sheep push against feeders with their heads and bodies. Rough wood can cause abrasions, and rusty metal can cause cuts. Use smooth, durable materials and check feeders regularly for damage.

## Grain Feeders and Troughs

Grain feeders deliver concentrates such as corn, pelleted feed, or custom mixes. They are different from hay racks because grain is more expensive per pound and easier to waste. Grain feeders need to minimize spillage, prevent contamination, and allow controlled access.

### When to Feed Grain

Not all sheep need grain. Ewes on good pasture or quality hay may not need any concentrate. Grain is typically fed in these situations:

- **Late pregnancy.** Ewes need extra energy in the last 4 to 6 weeks before lambing. Grain supplements help them maintain condition and support fetal growth.
- **Lactation.** Nursing ewes have high energy demands. Grain helps them produce milk and maintain body weight.
- **Growing lambs.** Lambs destined for market or breeding need concentrated energy to grow efficiently.
- **Thin or sick animals.** Individual sheep that are underweight may need grain to regain condition.
- **Cold weather.** In extreme cold, sheep burn extra energy to stay warm. Grain provides a concentrated energy source.

If you feed grain, do it consistently. Sudden changes in grain intake can cause digestive upset, including acidosis and enterotoxemia. Introduce grain gradually over 7 to 10 days, and feed at the same time each day.

### Grain Feeder Design Principles

Grain feeders should follow these principles:

**Controlled access.** Sheep should be able to eat grain but not climb into the feeder. A feeder with a narrow opening at the top and a wider body below works well. Sheep insert their heads, eat, and pull out.

**Minimal spillage.** A lip or edge around the top of the trough prevents grain from being pushed over the side. A solid bottom catches any grain that falls.

**Multiple feeding spaces.** For group feeding, provide 12 to 16 inches of trough space per sheep. If you cannot provide enough space, feed in multiple rounds or use a feeder with individual stalls.

**Easy to clean.** Grain feeders need regular cleaning to remove old feed, mold, and manure. A feeder that can be tipped, disassembled, or scrubbed easily is worth the extra cost.

**Durability.** Sheep push and shove at grain feeders. The feeder must withstand this abuse without breaking or tipping.

### Types of Grain Feeders

**Open troughs.** These are simple, long troughs that sheep eat from directly. They are easy to build and clean, but they waste grain because sheep can push it out. A lip or inward-sloping edge reduces waste. Open troughs work best for small flocks where you can monitor feeding closely.

**Self-feeders.** These are hoppers that hold a large quantity of grain and dispense it as sheep eat. They are efficient for large flocks but require careful management. The grain must be kept dry and free-flowing, and the feeder must be adjusted so sheep cannot waste grain. Self-feeders are not recommended for growing lambs or breeding ewes because they encourage overeating.

**Creep feeders.** These are small feeders designed for lambs, with openings that allow lambs to enter but exclude mature sheep. Creep feeders are placed in a pen or area that only lambs can access. They allow lambs to eat grain without competing with ewes. The openings should be about 8 to 10 inches wide and 18 to 24 inches high, depending on lamb size.

**Individual stalls.** These are feeding stations that separate sheep during feeding. Each stall has its own grain pan, and a gate or headgate holds the sheep in place while it eats. Individual stalls are useful for feeding measured rations to specific animals, such as pregnant ewes or show sheep. They are more expensive and labor-intensive than group feeders.

### Step-by-Step: Building a Simple Grain Trough

This is a basic trough that works for 5 to 15 sheep. It is inexpensive, easy to build, and can be modified for different flock sizes.

**Materials needed:**

- Two 2x6 boards, 8 feet long
- Two 2x4 boards, 4 feet long
- One sheet of 1/2-inch plywood, 4 feet by 4 feet
- Galvanized screws, 2.5 inches and 3 inches
- Saw, drill, measuring tape, sandpaper

**Step 1: Cut the boards.**

Cut the two 8-foot 2x6 boards in half to make four 4-foot pieces. These will be the sides and bottom of the trough.

**Step 2: Build the trough body.**

Lay two of the 4-foot 2x6 boards parallel to each other, about 12 inches apart. These are the sides. Cut two pieces of plywood to fit between them as the bottom and end panels. Attach the bottom and ends with 2.5-inch screws.

**Step 3: Add the lip.**

Attach a 2x4 board along the top edge of each side, angled slightly inward. This lip prevents grain from being pushed out. Use 3-inch screws.

**Step 4: Build the legs.**

Cut the two 4-foot 2x4 boards in half to make four 2-foot legs. Attach one leg to each corner of the trough using 3-inch screws. The legs should extend downward so the trough sits 18 to 24 inches above the ground.

**Step 5: Add cross braces.**

Cut two pieces of 2x4 to fit between the legs on each end. Attach them as cross braces to stabilize the trough.

**Step 6: Sand and finish.**

Sand all edges and apply a non-toxic sealant if the trough will be outdoors.

**Step 7: Test and adjust.**

Place the trough in a dry, accessible location. Fill it with grain and observe your sheep. Adjust the height if sheep seem uncomfortable, and add a lip if grain is being wasted.

### Common Mistakes with Grain Feeders

**Overfeeding.** Grain is concentrated feed. Too much grain can cause acidosis, a serious digestive disorder. Feed grain according to the sheep's weight, stage of production, and the quality of forage available.

**Feeding on the ground.** Grain on the ground is wasted and contaminated with manure and dirt. It also encourages sheep to eat soil, which can spread parasites and diseases.

**Not enough space.** When sheep compete for grain, dominant animals eat more and timid animals go hungry. This leads to uneven body condition and can cause health problems in the animals that are pushed away.

**Using a feeder that is too deep.** If the trough is too deep, sheep cannot reach the grain at the bottom. They may tip the feeder or stop eating. A depth of 6 to 8 inches is sufficient.

**Not cleaning the feeder.** Old grain can mold, and moldy grain can make sheep sick. Clean grain feeders regularly, especially in humid conditions.

## Waterers and Water Troughs

Water is the most essential nutrient for sheep. A mature ewe drinks 1 to 2 gallons per day, and a lactating ewe may drink 2 to 3 gallons. In hot weather, intake increases. In cold weather, sheep still need water, and ice-free water is critical.

### Water Requirements by Production Stage

| Animal | Daily Water Intake |
|---|---|
| Maintenance ewe, 150 lb | 1.0 to 1.5 gallons |
| Pregnant ewe, last trimester | 1.5 to 2.0 gallons |
| Lactating ewe | 2.0 to 3.0 gallons |
| Growing lamb | 0.5 to 1.0 gallon |
| Ram, mature | 1.5 to 2.0 gallons |

These are estimates. Actual intake varies with temperature, feed moisture, activity level, and individual variation. Sheep eating lush pasture get some water from the forage. Sheep eating dry hay need more water.

### Waterer Design Principles

**Accessibility.** Sheep should be able to reach the water easily. The water surface should be 18 to 24 inches above the ground for mature sheep. Lambs need a lower water source or a ramp to reach it.

**Cleanliness.** Water troughs need regular cleaning. Algae, manure, and debris contaminate water and can cause disease. A trough that is easy to dump, scrub, and refill is worth the investment.

**Ice prevention.** In cold climates, water freezes. You need a system for breaking ice or keeping water from freezing. Options include electric heaters, heated waterers, insulated troughs, or simply checking and breaking ice several times per day.

**Capacity.** The trough should hold enough water for your flock for at least a day. A general rule is 1 gallon of trough capacity per sheep, with a minimum of 20 gallons for a small flock. Larger flocks need larger tanks or automatic waterers.

**Durability.** Water troughs take a beating. Sheep stand on edges, push against sides, and sometimes tip troughs. Choose heavy-duty materials that will not crack, rust, or tip.

**Drainage.** A drain plug or a design that allows easy tipping makes cleaning much easier. Place the trough on a well-drained surface so muddy conditions do not develop around it.

### Types of Waterers

**Open troughs.** These are simple, open containers that hold water. They can be made of galvanized steel, plastic, rubber, or concrete. Open troughs are inexpensive and easy to clean, but they are prone to contamination and freezing. They work best for small flocks with regular attention.

**Automatic waterers.** These connect to a water supply and refill automatically as sheep drink. They can be heated or unheated. Automatic waterers save labor and ensure a constant water supply. They are more expensive to install but pay off in reduced labor and improved water quality.

**Heated waterers.** These have built-in heaters that keep water from freezing. They are essential in cold climates. Heated waterers can be automatic or manual. They require electricity and should be installed by a qualified person to ensure safety.

**Nipple waterers.** These are similar to those used for pigs or poultry. Sheep drink by biting or pushing a nipple that releases water. Nipple waterers reduce contamination and water waste, but sheep need to be trained to use them. They are more common in commercial operations than in small flocks.

**Tire tanks.** A common DIY waterer is a clean, half-section of a large truck tire, lined with a rubber liner or used as-is. These are cheap and durable, but they are hard to clean and can harbor algae. If you use a tire tank, clean it regularly and ensure the tire is free of debris and chemicals.

### Step-by-Step: Setting Up a Simple Water System

This is a basic setup for a small flock using an automatic waterer.

**Step 1: Choose a location.**

Place the waterer in a shaded, well-drained area, close to the feeding area but not so close that feed contaminates the water. The location should be accessible in all weather.

**Step 2: Prepare the base.**

Create a firm, level base for the waterer. Use gravel, concrete pavers, or a concrete pad. The base should extend several feet beyond the waterer to prevent mud.

**Step 3: Install the water supply.**

Connect the waterer to a frost-proof hydrant or a buried water line. Use a flexible hose or pipe to connect to the waterer. Ensure the connection is leak-free.

**Step 4: Set the waterer height.**

Adjust the waterer so the water surface is 18 to 24 inches above the ground. Some waterers have adjustable legs. If not, build a platform to raise it.

**Step 5: Test and observe.**

Fill the waterer and observe your sheep. Watch to see that all animals can reach the water and that the waterer refills properly. Adjust the height or location as needed.

**Step 6: Establish a cleaning routine.**

Clean the waterer at least weekly. Dump out old water, scrub the interior with a brush and mild detergent, rinse thoroughly, and refill. In hot weather, clean more often to prevent algae growth.

### Common Mistakes with Waterers

**Not enough water.** If the trough is too small or the waterer is too slow to refill, sheep may not get enough to drink. This reduces feed intake and can cause health problems.

**Dirty water.** Sheep will drink less when water is dirty or foul. Contaminated water can also spread disease. Clean waterers regularly and place them where manure and feed do not fall into them.

**Ice in winter.** Sheep need water even in freezing temperatures. Frozen water is a common cause of reduced intake and poor condition in winter. Use a heated waterer or break ice several times daily.

**Waterer too high or too low.** If the water surface is too high, sheep cannot reach it comfortably. If it is too low, sheep may step in the trough or contaminate the water. Adjust the height for your flock.

**Poor drainage.** If the area around the waterer becomes muddy, sheep may avoid the waterer or develop foot problems. Provide a firm, well-drained base.

## Feeding Space and Flock Management

The amount of feeding space you provide is as important as the equipment itself. Sheep are social animals with a clear hierarchy. When feeding space is limited, dominant animals eat first and may eat too much, while timid animals go hungry.

### Space Recommendations

**Hay feeding.** Provide at least 12 inches of linear feeder space per ewe. For round bale feeders, provide enough circumference so that all sheep can eat at once. A general rule is 1 foot of feeder space per sheep, with a minimum of 15 feet of total feeder space for a flock of 15.

**Grain feeding.** Provide 12 to 16 inches of trough space per sheep when feeding grain. If you cannot provide this, feed in multiple groups or use a feeder with individual stalls.

**Water.** Provide at least 1 gallon of trough capacity per sheep, with a minimum of 20 gallons. Ensure that at least 10 percent of the flock can drink at one time. For a flock of 20, that means 2 sheep can drink simultaneously, which is usually sufficient.

**Creep feeding.** Provide 2 to 4 inches of feeder space per lamb in a creep feeder. Lambs should have continuous access to the creep area.

### Managing Feeding Behavior

**Feed at the same time daily.** Sheep thrive on routine. Feeding at the same time each day reduces stress and competition.

**Provide multiple feeding points.** Scatter hay in several locations or use a long feeder so that all sheep can eat at once. This reduces bullying and ensures that timid sheep get enough to eat.

**Separate animals by age and condition.** Ewes with lambs, thin ewes, and young animals may need different rations. If possible, separate them into groups and feed each group appropriately.

**Monitor body condition.** Regularly assess the body condition of your sheep. A sheep that is losing weight despite adequate feed may be getting pushed away from the feeder or may have a health problem.

**Adjust for weather.** In cold weather, sheep eat more to stay warm. In hot weather, they eat less. Adjust feed amounts accordingly.

## Feed Storage and Handling

The way you store and handle feed affects both feed quality and equipment longevity. Poorly stored hay loses nutritional value and can develop mold. Poorly stored grain can spoil or attract pests.

### Hay Storage

**Keep hay dry.** Hay should be stored in a dry, well-ventilated area. If stored outdoors, cover it with a tarp or store it in a hay shed. Wet hay molds quickly and can cause respiratory problems in sheep.

**Keep hay off the ground.** Store hay on pallets or gravel to keep it from absorbing ground moisture. This also reduces spoilage and rodent damage.

**Rotate stock.** Use older hay first. Label bales with the date they were harvested and stack them so you can access the oldest hay first.

**Inspect hay before feeding.** Check each bale for mold, dust, or foreign objects. Moldy hay should not be fed to sheep. If you are unsure, discard the bale.

### Grain Storage

**Use sealed containers.** Store grain in metal or heavy-duty plastic containers with tight-fitting lids. This keeps out moisture, rodents, and insects.

**Keep grain dry.** Moisture causes grain to mold and spoil. Store grain in a dry area and check it regularly for signs of moisture.

**Control pests.** Rodents and insects can contaminate grain and spread disease. Keep the storage area clean and use traps or baits as needed.

**Use old grain first.** Like hay, grain should be rotated. Use the oldest grain first to prevent spoilage.

## Monitoring and Recordkeeping

Good feeding management requires observation and recordkeeping. You cannot improve what you do not measure.

### What to Monitor

**Feed intake.** Track how much hay and grain you feed each week. Sudden changes in intake can signal health problems, feed quality issues, or changes in weather.

**Body condition.** Score your sheep's body condition regularly, at least monthly. Use a 1 to 5 scale, where 1 is emaciated and 5 is obese. Aim for a score of 3 for most sheep.

**Water intake.** Monitor water levels in troughs and note any changes in consumption. Reduced water intake can be an early sign of illness.

**Waste.** Periodically check the ground around feeders for wasted feed. If you see significant waste, adjust the feeder design or feeding practices.

**Animal behavior.** Watch for signs of bullying, such as sheep being repeatedly pushed away from feed. Separate problem animals if needed.

**Equipment condition.** Inspect feeders and waterers regularly for damage, sharp edges, or other hazards. Repair or replace damaged equipment promptly.

### Recordkeeping

Keep simple records of your feeding program. A notebook or spreadsheet can track:

- Date and amount of feed given
- Number and type of animals fed
- Body condition scores
- Water consumption
- Any health problems or unusual behavior
- Changes in feed source or type

These records help you spot trends and make informed decisions. For example, if you notice that ewes lose condition during a particular month each year, you can adjust your feeding program in advance.

## Common Feeding-Related Health Problems

Poor feeding equipment and practices can contribute to several health problems in sheep.

### Choke

Choke occurs when feed gets stuck in the esophagus. It is more common with grain, especially if sheep eat too quickly or if the grain is dry and dusty. Signs include coughing, drooling, stretching the neck, and signs of distress. Remove the feed and provide water. If the sheep cannot clear the blockage, call a veterinarian.

### Acidosis

Acidosis is a digestive disorder caused by eating too much grain. It occurs when the rumen pH drops too low, killing beneficial bacteria and causing a buildup of acid. Signs include depression, loss of appetite, diarrhea, and a bloated abdomen. Acidosis is an emergency and requires veterinary treatment.

### Enterotoxemia

Enterotoxemia, also called overeating disease, is caused by a toxin produced by Clostridium perfringens bacteria. It is often triggered by sudden changes in feed, especially increases in grain. Vaccination is the best prevention. Signs include sudden death, depression, and diarrhea.

### Bloat

Bloat occurs when gas builds up in the rumen and cannot be released. It can be caused by eating too much lush forage or by a blockage in the esophagus. Signs include a distended left side, difficulty breathing, and signs of pain. Bloat can be fatal if not treated quickly.

### Parasites

Parasites such as barber pole worm are spread through manure and contaminated pasture. Feeding equipment that keeps feed off the ground reduces parasite exposure. Regular fecal testing and targeted deworming are important parts of parasite control.

### Foot Rot

Foot rot is a bacterial infection of the feet that causes lameness. It is more common in wet, muddy conditions, including around water troughs and feeders. Provide good drainage around feeding areas and treat affected animals promptly.

## When to Call a Veterinarian or Extension Agent

You should be able to handle routine feeding management yourself, but some situations require professional help.

### Call a Veterinarian If:

- A sheep shows signs of choke, acidosis, bloat, or enterotoxemia
- A sheep is suddenly off feed or water for more than 24 hours
- A sheep has diarrhea, especially if it is severe or bloody
- A sheep is unable to stand or is severely depressed
- A sheep has a fever, rapid breathing, or other signs of systemic illness
- A ewe has difficulty lambing or shows signs of pregnancy toxemia
- Multiple animals show the same signs at the same time, suggesting a contagious disease

### Call an Extension Agent If:

- You are designing a new feeding system and want advice on equipment and layout
- You are unsure about the nutritional needs of your flock
- You want to test your hay or grain for nutritional content
- You are considering changing your feeding program and want guidance
- You need help interpreting feed analysis reports
- You want to implement a parasite control program and need guidance on fecal testing

## Frequently Asked Questions

### How much hay does a sheep eat per day?

A mature ewe eats about 4 to 6 pounds of hay per day, which is roughly 2.5 to 3.5 percent of her body weight. Intake varies with age, stage of production, weather, and hay quality. Lactating ewes and growing lambs eat more per pound of body weight than dry ewes. In cold weather, sheep increase their hay intake by 10 to 25 percent to generate body heat.

### Should I feed sheep on the ground or in a rack?

Always use a rack or feeder. Feeding on the ground wastes hay and exposes sheep to parasites and diseases. Hay on the ground gets trampled, soiled with manure, and contaminated with dirt. Sheep will not eat contaminated hay, so you lose both the hay and the nutrients. A rack with a solid bottom keeps hay clean and reduces waste to under 10 percent.

### How high should a [sheep hay](/knowledge/animal-farming/sheep/sheep-hay-selection-nutritional-needs-and-feeding-strategies) rack be?

The hay surface should be at or slightly below the sheep's shoulder height, about 24 to 30 inches above the ground for mature ewes. The opening where sheep insert their heads should be at this height. If the rack is too high, sheep strain their necks and eat less. If it is too low, sheep may step in the feeder or contaminate the hay.

### What is the best material for [sheep feeders](/knowledge/animal-farming/sheep/sheep-feeders-types-selection-and-management-for-flock-nutrition)?

Galvanized steel and heavy-duty plastic are the most durable materials. Galvanized steel resists rust and is easy to clean. Heavy-duty plastic is lightweight, resistant to corrosion, and less likely to cause injury. Treated lumber can be used for DIY feeders, but it must be sealed to prevent moisture damage and should be checked regularly for splinters. Avoid materials with sharp edges or rough surfaces.

### How often should I clean sheep water troughs?

Clean water troughs at least once per week. In hot weather, clean more often to prevent algae growth. To clean, dump the old water, scrub the interior with a brush and mild detergent, rinse thoroughly, and refill with fresh water. If a trough becomes contaminated with manure or feed, clean it immediately.

### How do I keep sheep water from freezing in winter?

Use a heated waterer, an electric heater designed for livestock water troughs, or a floating tank heater. These devices keep water above freezing and are safe for sheep. Alternatively, you can break ice several times per day, but this is labor-intensive and sheep may not get enough water between checks. Insulated troughs and burying water lines below the frost line also help.

### Can I use a horse [hay feeder for sheep](/knowledge/animal-farming/sheep/hay-feeding-for-sheep-quality-storage-and-waste-reduction)?

You can use a horse hay feeder for sheep, but you may need to modify it. Horse feeders often have larger openings and are built higher than sheep need. The openings may let sheep climb inside or pull out large clumps of hay. If you use a horse feeder, adjust the opening height and spacing to suit sheep. A feeder that works for horses may not be safe or efficient for sheep.

### How much space do I need for feeding 20 sheep?

For hay, provide at least 20 feet of linear feeder space. For grain, provide 20 to 27 feet of trough space, or feed in multiple groups. For water, provide at least 20 gallons of trough capacity, with access for at least 2 sheep at a time. These are minimums. More space reduces competition and ensures that all sheep get enough to eat and drink.

## Related Farming Guides

This section will be populated with links to related guides on sheep management, nutrition, and equipment. Check back for updates or explore the rest of the site for more farming resources.

## Related Clinical & Scientific Guides

* [Sheep Grazing Lease: Terms, Rates, and Legal Considerations](/knowledge/animal-farming/sheep/sheep-grazing-lease-terms-rates-and-legal-considerations)
* [Sheep Breed Selection for Meat, Wool, Dairy, and Low-Input Systems](/knowledge/animal-farming/sheep/sheep-breed-selection-for-meat-wool-dairy-and-low-input-systems)
* [Sheep Barn Flooring for Hoof Health: Best Materials and Practices](/knowledge/animal-farming/sheep/sheep-barn-flooring-hoof-health-materials-practices)


## References

- American Consortium for [Small Ruminant Parasite Control](/knowledge/veterinary-medicine/food-animal-medicine/small-ruminant-parasite-control-diagnostic-strategies-anthelmintic-stewardship) (ACSRPC): https://www.wormx.info/
- USDA APHIS Sheep Health: https://www.aphis.usda.gov/livestock-poultry-disease/sheep-goats
- FAO Sheep and Goat Production: https://www.fao.org/animal-production/en/
- FAO Animal Production and Health: https://www.fao.org/animal-production/en/
- WOAH (World Organisation for Animal Health): https://www.woah.org/en/home/

> This article is educational and is not a substitute for veterinary diagnosis, treatment, public-health guidance, or regulatory reporting.