# Sheep Barn Flooring: Concrete, Slatted, and Bedded Options ## Key Takeaways - Solid concrete floors offer durability and ease of sanitation, but necessitate a minimum 6-8 inch deep bedding layer in resting areas to mitigate leg stress and cold, and require regular hoof trimming every 6-8 weeks due to reduced natural wear. - Slatted floors eliminate bedding costs and labor, promoting dryness and reducing ammonia, but require precise slat spacing (0.75-1 inch gaps for adults) to prevent hoof entrapment and necessitate robust ventilation to manage pit gases. - Bedded pack systems provide superior insulation and comfort, reducing injury risk, but demand significant labor for frequent bedding addition and annual removal, and require careful management to prevent anaerobic conditions and ammonia buildup. - Slat spacing is critical for safety, with gaps of 0.75-1 inch for adult sheep and 0.5-0.75 inch for lambs, to prevent hoof injury; smooth plastic slats can become dangerously slippery when wet, necessitating textured surfaces. - Lambing areas require special consideration, with bedded packs or deeply bedded solid floors being ideal due to the vulnerability of newborns to cold and leg entrapment on slatted surfaces. - Effective manure management is paramount across all systems, with bedded packs requiring periodic removal and slatted floors necessitating pit capacity planning and ventilation to control ammonia levels below detrimental thresholds. --- Choosing the right flooring for a sheep barn is one of the most consequential decisions a shepherd makes. The floor affects hoof health, wool quality, manure management, labor hours, and the overall well-being of the flock. This guide compares the three primary sheep barn flooring systems: solid concrete, slatted floors, and bedded packs. It explains how each system performs under real farm conditions, how to install or convert each type, and how to manage the common problems that arise with each choice. This article is written for sheep producers who are building a new facility, renovating an existing barn, or troubleshooting persistent hoof or respiratory problems in their flock. ## At a Glance | Flooring Type | Best For | Key Advantage | Key Disadvantage | Typical Bedding Use | |---|---|---|---|---| | Solid Concrete | Permanent facilities, easy cleaning, predator protection | Durable, easy to sanitize, no digging | Hard on legs and udders, cold, needs deep bedding | Heavy in winter, moderate in summer | | Slatted Floors | High-density operations, manure management | No bedding needed, self-cleaning, dry surface | High cost, hoof injury risk, drafts below | None or minimal | | Bedded Pack | Small to mid-size flocks, lambing, cold climates | Deep bedding insulates, low injury risk, absorbs moisture | High labor for bedding and removal, can harbor disease | Continuous, deep bedding required | Choose flooring based on your climate, flock size, labor availability, and whether the barn is used year-round or only for lambing and winter shelter. There is no single best option for every farm. ## Concrete Floors for Sheep Barns Concrete is the most common permanent flooring material in sheep barns across North America. It is durable, easy to clean, and provides a solid barrier against rodents and predators. However, concrete is also the hardest surface a sheep can stand on, and it requires careful management to prevent hoof and leg problems. ### Why Choose Concrete Concrete floors offer several practical advantages for sheep operations. The surface can be scraped clean with a skid steer or tractor, which reduces the time spent on manure removal. Concrete does not absorb urine or manure, so it is easier to keep sanitary than dirt or wood. It also provides a solid foundation for feeders, waterers, and handling equipment. For producers who lamb indoors, concrete offers a surface that can be thoroughly disinfected between lambing groups. This is a significant biosecurity advantage over dirt or bedded pack floors, which are difficult to fully sanitize. Concrete also prevents sheep from digging out under walls, a common problem with dirt floors. ### The Problems with Concrete The hardness of concrete is its greatest drawback. Sheep evolved to walk on soft pasture. Standing on concrete for long periods places excessive stress on the hoof wall, the sole, and the joints of the leg. This can lead to hoof overgrowth, sole bruising, and an increased incidence of footrot and foot scald, especially in wet conditions. Concrete is also cold. In winter, a bare concrete floor draws heat away from a sheep's body much faster than earth or wood. This is a particular concern for newborn lambs, which can lose body heat rapidly on a cold concrete surface. Ewes lying on concrete in winter will use more energy to stay warm, which means they need more feed to maintain condition. The surface texture of concrete matters greatly. New concrete that is too smooth becomes dangerously slippery when wet with manure and urine. Concrete that is too rough can abrade the hooves and the skin over the knees and hocks. Finding the right texture requires attention during the pour. ### How to Build a Concrete Sheep Floor If you are pouring a new concrete floor for a sheep barn, follow these steps to get the surface right. **Step 1: Plan the slope.** The floor needs a slight slope for drainage, but not so much that sheep are uncomfortable standing. A slope of 1 to 2 percent (about 1 to 2 inches of drop per 10 feet of run) is ideal. This allows urine and wash water to drain to a collection point without making the floor too steep for sheep to stand comfortably. **Step 2: Install a vapor barrier.** Place a 6 mil polyethylene vapor barrier over the gravel base before pouring concrete. This prevents ground moisture from wicking up through the slab, which keeps the floor drier and reduces the humidity inside the barn. **Step 3: Choose the right concrete mix.** Use a mix with a compressive strength of at least 3,500 psi. Add air entrainment to help the concrete resist freeze-thaw damage. The finish is the most important part. Do not use a steel trowel finish, which creates a surface as smooth as glass. Instead, use a broom finish. Drag a stiff broom across the surface while the concrete is still wet to create a fine texture that provides traction without being abrasive. **Step 4: Allow proper curing.** Keep the concrete moist for at least 7 days after pouring. Cover it with wet burlap or a curing compound. Concrete that dries too quickly will be weaker and more prone to dusting and surface deterioration. **Step 5: Consider adding a wearing surface.** For high-traffic areas near feeders and waterers, you can add a hardener to the surface during the pour. This reduces dust and extends the life of the floor. ### Managing Sheep on Concrete The key to success with concrete flooring is managing the interface between the hard surface and the sheep's feet. **Provide deep bedding in resting areas.** Even a well-built concrete floor needs bedding in the areas where sheep lie down. Use straw, wood shavings, or sawdust to create a cushion. In winter, bedding should be deep enough that sheep can nest into it and trap body heat. A minimum of 6 to 8 inches of fresh bedding in lambing pens is recommended. **Keep the floor as dry as possible.** Wet concrete is cold and promotes footrot. Scrape alleys and feeding areas daily. Ensure that the drainage slope is working and that no puddles form. If the floor stays wet, the problem is usually poor drainage or insufficient bedding, not the concrete itself. **Trim hooves on a regular schedule.** Sheep on concrete wear their hooves less than sheep on pasture or dirt. Plan to trim hooves every 6 to 8 weeks instead of the typical 3 to 4 month interval for pasture-raised sheep. **Watch for signs of foot soreness.** If sheep are reluctant to stand, are lying down more than usual, or are walking on their knees, the concrete is likely causing problems. Increase bedding depth immediately and check for footrot or foot scald. ### Common Concrete Floor Mistakes The most common mistake producers make with concrete floors is using too little bedding. A concrete floor with a thin scattering of straw is not a bedded floor. It is a hard surface with a token covering. Sheep need enough bedding to cushion their weight and insulate them from the cold. Another frequent error is pouring a smooth finish. A slick concrete floor covered with manure and urine is a hazard for both sheep and handlers. Sheep can slip and injure their legs, and a ewe that slips during late pregnancy can abort. A third mistake is failing to address drainage before pouring. If the ground under the barn is not graded properly, water will pool under the slab and wick up through cracks. This creates a perpetually damp floor that is difficult to dry out. ## Slatted Floors for Sheep Slatted floors, also known as raised slatted or suspended floors, are common in European sheep operations and are gaining interest in North America for high-density confinement systems. A slatted floor consists of a raised platform with gaps between the slats. Manure and urine fall through the gaps into a pit below, keeping the surface where the sheep stand relatively clean and dry. ### How Slatted Floors Work The principle behind slatted floors is simple. The floor is elevated above a manure pit or a ground-level collection area. The slats are spaced so that sheep hooves cannot fit through the gaps, but manure and urine can fall through. The surface stays dry because waste is removed continuously without human labor. The two main types of slatted flooring are concrete slats and plastic or composite slats. Concrete slats are heavy, durable, and long-lasting. They are commonly used in cattle barns and are available in precast sections. Plastic slats are lighter, easier to install, and have a smoother surface that is gentler on hooves. However, plastic slats may become slippery when wet and can degrade in sunlight. ### The Advantages of Slatted Floors The primary advantage of a slatted floor is the elimination of bedding. This saves the cost of straw or shavings and the labor of spreading and removing it. For operations with hundreds of sheep, the savings can be substantial. Slatted floors also keep sheep cleaner. Because manure falls through the slots, the sheep are not lying in their own waste. This reduces the incidence of flystrike, mastitis, and footrot. The cleaner environment also means less ammonia in the air, which improves respiratory health for both sheep and workers. Manure management is simplified. The manure collects in a pit below the floor, where it can be stored until it is convenient to spread. In some systems, the pit is designed for liquid manure handling, with a pump and agitator for application to cropland. ### The Disadvantages of Slatted Floors The biggest drawback of slatted floors is cost. The materials and installation for a slatted floor system are significantly more expensive than a concrete slab or a bedded pack. The pit below the floor adds to the expense, as does the ventilation system needed to manage odors and gases from the manure. Slatted floors can also be hard on sheep hooves. The gaps between slats can catch a hoof if the spacing is wrong or if a sheep has overgrown hooves. A hoof that gets caught can result in a torn hoof wall, a broken leg, or a trapped sheep that panics and injures itself. Drafts are another concern. Because the floor is elevated, cold air can rise from the pit below and chill the sheep. In cold climates, this means the barn must be well-ventilated but not drafty at sheep level. Managing this airflow is one of the more difficult aspects of slatted floor systems. ### Slat Spacing and Sizing Getting the slat spacing right is critical. The gaps must be wide enough for manure to fall through but narrow enough to prevent hooves from getting caught. For adult sheep, a gap of 0.75 to 1 inch (19 to 25 mm) is typical. The slat width should be at least 3 to 4 inches (75 to 100 mm). For lambs, the gap should be narrower, around 0.5 to 0.75 inch (13 to 19 mm). If you plan to keep lambs in the same barn as adult ewes, you need either a separate lambing area with different slat spacing or a system where the lambing pens have solid floors. The slat surface should have some texture to provide traction. Smooth plastic slats can be dangerously slippery when wet. Some manufacturers produce slats with a raised diamond or ribbed pattern to improve grip. ### Installing a Slatted Floor System **Step 1: Determine the pit depth.** The manure pit below a slatted floor needs enough capacity to store manure between removal events. For most operations, a pit depth of 4 to 6 feet is adequate. Deeper pits store more manure but are more expensive to build and create more ventilation challenges. **Step 2: Design the ventilation.** Slatted floors release ammonia and other gases from the manure pit. The barn needs a ventilation system that removes these gases while not creating drafts at sheep level. In cold climates, this often means a positive-pressure ventilation system that brings fresh air in through the ceiling and exhausts it through the walls. **Step 3: Install the support structure.** The slats rest on support beams or walls. The support structure must be strong enough to hold the weight of the slats, the sheep, and any equipment used in the barn. For concrete slats, the support beams are typically spaced 4 to 6 feet apart. **Step 4: Lay the slats.** Follow the manufacturer's instructions for installing the slats. Ensure that the gaps are consistent and that no slat is warped or damaged. A single damaged slat can cause a hoof injury that affects the entire flock. **Step 5: Test the surface.** Before turning sheep into the barn, walk on the slats yourself and check for any sharp edges, uneven surfaces, or gaps that are too wide. Fix any problems before introducing sheep. ### Managing Sheep on Slatted Floors Sheep on slatted floors need monitoring for hoof problems. The hard surface of concrete slats can cause hoof overgrowth, similar to solid concrete. Plan for regular hoof trimming. Watch for sheep that are lying down more than normal. A sheep that is reluctant to stand on slats may have a hoof injury or a leg problem. Remove the sheep to a solid-floor pen with deep bedding for observation and treatment. In cold weather, monitor the temperature at sheep level. If the barn is drafty, provide windbreaks or adjust the ventilation system. Some producers use a partial solid floor in the resting area with slats only in the feeding and dunging areas. This hybrid approach reduces drafts while still capturing the labor savings of slats. ### Common Slatted Floor Mistakes The most serious mistake is incorrect slat spacing. A gap that is too wide will catch hooves. A gap that is too narrow will not allow manure to pass through, defeating the purpose of the system. Measure the gaps carefully during installation and check them periodically, as slats can shift over time. Another mistake is inadequate ventilation. A sealed barn with a full slatted floor will quickly fill with ammonia gas, which damages the respiratory tract of sheep and can cause chronic coughing, pneumonia, and reduced weight gain. If you smell strong ammonia when you enter the barn, the ventilation is inadequate. A third mistake is using slatted floors for lambing. Newborn lambs are small and can easily get a leg caught in the gaps. Most producers who use slatted floors for the main flock provide a separate solid-floor lambing area with deep bedding. ## Bedded Pack Floors The bedded pack system is the oldest and simplest sheep flooring method. It consists of a solid floor, usually dirt or concrete, covered with a deep layer of bedding that accumulates over time. Sheep are bedded on the pack, which is periodically topped up with fresh bedding and removed entirely once or twice a year. ### The Bedded Pack System Explained A bedded pack is a managed accumulation of bedding and manure. The system works by adding fresh bedding on top of the existing pack on a regular basis. The pack compresses under the weight of the sheep, creating a firm but springy surface. The top layer stays relatively clean and dry because urine drains through the pack and manure is trampled in or removed with the bedding. The key to a successful bedded pack is the carbon-to-nitrogen ratio. Bedding materials like straw, wood shavings, and sawdust are high in carbon. Sheep manure is high in nitrogen. When the two are mixed in the right proportions, they compost slowly, generating heat that helps keep the pack dry and warm. A well-managed pack can be warm enough in winter that sheep are comfortable without additional heat. ### The Advantages of Bedded Packs Bedded packs are the most comfortable flooring option for sheep. The deep bedding cushions the hooves and joints, reducing the risk of hoof and leg problems. The pack also provides insulation, keeping sheep warm in winter. This is particularly important for newborn lambs, which need a warm, dry surface in the first hours of life. Bedded packs require less upfront investment than concrete or slatted floors. A dirt floor with deep bedding is the least expensive option to establish. Even a barn with an existing concrete floor can be converted to a bedded pack simply by adding deep bedding. The pack also provides a beneficial environment for hoof health. The bedding absorbs moisture, keeping hooves drier than they would be on wet concrete. The slightly abrasive texture of straw or shavings can help wear hooves naturally. ### The Disadvantages of Bedded Packs The primary disadvantage of a bedded pack is labor. Bedding must be added regularly, and the entire pack must be removed once or twice a year. This is heavy, dirty work that requires a tractor and a manure spreader. Bedded packs can also harbor disease. The warm, moist environment of a pack is ideal for the bacteria that cause footrot and for parasites like coccidia. If the pack is not managed properly, it can become a source of infection rather than a healthy resting area. Ammonia can be a problem in bedded pack barns. If the pack becomes too wet or if there is too much manure relative to bedding, the pack will release ammonia. This can cause respiratory problems in sheep and make the barn unpleasant to work in. ### How to Build and Manage a Bedded Pack **Step 1: Choose the base.** A bedded pack can be built on dirt or concrete. Dirt is cheaper and provides some natural drainage, but it cannot be fully sanitized between packs. Concrete is easier to clean and provides a better barrier against rodents, but it is colder and requires more bedding to insulate. **Step 2: Select the bedding material.** Straw is the traditional choice. It is absorbent, provides good insulation, and is relatively inexpensive in most areas. Wood shavings and sawdust are also good options. They are more absorbent than straw but can be dusty. Avoid using black walnut shavings, which are toxic to horses and can cause problems in sheep as well. **Step 3: Start with a thick base layer.** When establishing a new pack, start with a base layer of at least 6 to 8 inches of bedding. This provides a dry surface for sheep to lie on from the first day. **Step 4: Add bedding on a regular schedule.** The frequency of bedding addition depends on the number of sheep, the size of the pen, and the weather. In winter, when sheep spend more time indoors, you may need to add bedding every 2 to 3 days. In milder weather, once a week may be sufficient. The goal is to keep the top layer dry and to prevent the pack from becoming wet and soupy. **Step 5: Remove the pack when needed.** A bedded pack should be removed when it becomes too deep to manage or when the bottom layer becomes anaerobic and starts to smell. For most operations, this is once or twice a year. The best time to remove the pack is in spring, when the weather is dry and the manure can be spread on fields. **Step 6: Manage the pack between removals.** Do not let the pack become too wet. If urine is pooling on the surface, add more bedding and improve drainage. If the pack is too dry and dusty, add a small amount of water or increase the stocking density. The ideal pack has a moisture content that supports composting without becoming soggy. ### Managing Sheep on a Bedded Pack Sheep on a bedded pack need less hoof care than sheep on concrete, but they still need regular monitoring. Check hooves every 8 to 12 weeks and trim as needed. Watch for signs of footrot, especially in wet weather. The bacteria that cause footrot thrive in warm, moist conditions. If you see sheep limping or standing on their knees, examine their hooves immediately. Monitor the pack for ammonia. If the barn smells strongly of ammonia, the pack is too wet or has too much manure relative to bedding. Add more bedding and improve ventilation. ### Common Bedded Pack Mistakes The most common mistake is not adding enough bedding. A thin layer of straw over a dirt floor is not a bedded pack. It is a muddy mess waiting to happen. Sheep need enough bedding to stay dry and comfortable. Another mistake is allowing the pack to become too wet. A wet pack is cold, smelly, and a breeding ground for disease. If the pack is wet, the problem is usually inadequate bedding, poor drainage, or too many sheep in the pen. A third mistake is never removing the pack. A pack that is allowed to accumulate for years will eventually become a source of ammonia, parasites, and disease. Plan to remove the pack at least once a year, even if it seems manageable. ## Choosing the Right Flooring for Your Operation The choice of flooring depends on several factors that are specific to your operation. Consider each of the following before making a decision. ### Climate In cold climates, bedded packs are often the best choice because they provide insulation and warmth. Concrete floors in cold climates require deep bedding to prevent heat loss. Slatted floors in cold climates need careful ventilation management to prevent drafts. In mild climates, concrete floors are easier to manage because sheep can spend more time outside and the barn is used less intensively. Slatted floors also work well in mild climates where ventilation is less of a challenge. ### Flock Size For small flocks of fewer than 50 sheep, a bedded pack is usually the most practical choice. The labor of managing a pack is manageable, and the cost of concrete or slatted floors is hard to justify. For large flocks of several hundred sheep, slatted floors or concrete with regular scraping become more attractive because they reduce labor. The upfront cost is higher, but the savings in bedding and labor can be significant. ### Lambing System If you lamb indoors, the flooring in the lambing area is critical. Newborn lambs need a warm, dry, non-abrasive surface. A bedded pack is ideal for lambing pens. Concrete floors need deep bedding. Slatted floors are generally not suitable for lambing because of the risk of leg injuries to lambs. Consider using a hybrid system: slatted or concrete floors in the main barn, with a separate bedded-pack lambing area. ### Labor Availability Be honest about the labor you have available. A bedded pack requires regular attention. If you cannot commit to adding bedding every few days, the pack will become wet and unhealthy. Concrete and slatted floors require less daily labor but more periodic maintenance. ### Budget The initial cost of flooring varies widely. A dirt floor with bedding is the cheapest to establish. A concrete slab is moderate in cost. A slatted floor with a manure pit is the most expensive. Consider the long-term costs as well. Concrete and slatted floors require bedding for resting areas, while slatted floors eliminate bedding but require more ventilation and regular hoof care. A bedded pack requires ongoing bedding purchases but has low upfront costs. ## Monitoring and Recordkeeping Whatever flooring system you choose, monitoring and recordkeeping are essential for success. ### Daily Monitoring Walk the barn every day and check the following: **Floor condition.** Is the floor wet or dry? Are there puddles or areas of manure buildup? Is the bedding dry on top? **Sheep behavior.** Are sheep lying down comfortably? Are they reluctant to stand? Are they limping? **Air quality.** Does the barn smell of ammonia? Is there visible dust or condensation? **Hoof condition.** Look at the hooves of sheep as they move. Are any sheep walking abnormally? ### Weekly Monitoring Once a week, do a more thorough check: **Hoof inspection.** Pick up a sample of sheep and examine their hooves. Look for overgrowth, cracks, or signs of footrot. **Bedding depth.** Measure the depth of bedding in the resting areas. Add bedding if it is less than 4 to 6 inches. **Manure accumulation.** Check the manure pit or the depth of the pack. Plan for removal when needed. ### Recordkeeping Keep simple records of the following: **Bedding use.** Track how much bedding you use each month. This helps you budget and identify when the pack is becoming too wet. **Hoof care.** Record when each group of sheep was trimmed and any hoof problems you found. **Health issues.** Note any cases of footrot, mastitis, or respiratory disease. Look for patterns that might be related to flooring. **Manure removal.** Record when the pack or pit was emptied and how much manure was removed. ## When to Call a Veterinarian or Extension Agent Most flooring problems can be managed with good husbandry, but some situations require professional help. ### Call a Veterinarian When **Footrot is spreading despite treatment.** If you have trimmed hooves, applied footbaths, and improved drainage but footrot continues to spread, you need veterinary help. The veterinarian can help identify the specific bacteria involved and recommend a treatment plan. **Sheep are lame and you cannot find the cause.** If sheep are limping and you cannot identify the problem after examining their hooves, the issue may be deeper in the leg. A veterinarian can diagnose joint infections, fractures, or other problems. **Newborn lambs are dying.** If lambs are dying in the first days of life, the problem may be related to the flooring. A veterinarian can help determine if the cause is hypothermia, disease, or injury. **Respiratory disease is widespread.** If multiple sheep have coughing, nasal discharge, or difficulty breathing, the ventilation in your barn may be inadequate. A veterinarian can help diagnose the cause and recommend changes. ### Call an Extension Agent When **You are designing a new barn.** Your local extension agent can provide plans and advice on flooring, ventilation, and manure management specific to your region. **You are considering converting from one flooring system to another.** An extension agent can help you evaluate the costs and benefits for your specific operation. **You have a chronic problem you cannot solve.** If you have struggled with wet bedding, high ammonia, or persistent foot problems, an extension agent can visit your farm and help identify the root cause. ## Frequently Asked Questions **How much bedding do I need for a bedded pack?** The amount of bedding depends on the number of sheep, the size of the pen, and the weather. As a general rule, start with 6 to 8 inches of base bedding and add 2 to 4 inches per week in winter. In milder weather, you may only need to add bedding every 2 weeks. The key is to keep the top layer dry. If the surface is wet or muddy, you are not adding enough bedding. If the pack is so deep that sheep have trouble walking, you are adding too much. **Can I use a dirt floor instead of concrete?** Yes, many sheep barns have dirt floors. Dirt is inexpensive and provides natural drainage and insulation. The main disadvantage is that dirt cannot be fully sanitized, which can be a problem for lambing and disease control. Dirt floors also need more bedding to keep sheep clean and dry. If you use a dirt floor, make sure the site drains well and consider adding a layer of compacted gravel to improve drainage. **How often should I trim hooves on concrete floors?** Sheep on concrete floors typically need hoof trimming every 6 to 8 weeks. The hard surface wears hooves less than pasture, so they grow faster than they wear. Check hooves monthly and trim when you see overgrowth or when sheep start to walk abnormally. Sheep on bedded packs may go 8 to 12 weeks between trims. **Are slatted floors safe for lambs?** Slatted floors are generally not recommended for newborn lambs. The gaps between slats can catch a lamb's small legs, causing injury or trapping the lamb. If you use slatted floors in the main barn, provide a separate solid-floor area with deep bedding for lambing and for the first few weeks of a lamb's life. **What is the best bedding material for sheep?** Wheat straw is the traditional choice because it is absorbent, provides good insulation, and is widely available. Barley straw is also suitable but is less absorbent. Wood shavings and sawdust are more absorbent than straw and work well for bedded packs. Avoid using straw that is moldy or dusty, as this can cause respiratory problems. In very cold climates, a layer of straw over wood shavings provides both absorbency and insulation. **How do I control ammonia in a bedded pack barn?** Ammonia comes from the breakdown of urine and manure. To control ammonia, you need to absorb the moisture and provide ventilation. Add bedding frequently to absorb urine, and ensure that the barn has adequate airflow. If you can smell ammonia when you enter the barn, add more bedding and increase ventilation. A well-managed bedded pack should have little to no ammonia smell. **Can I mix different flooring types in one barn?** Yes, many producers use a hybrid approach. For example, you might have concrete floors in the feeding alleys and a bedded pack in the resting area. Or you might use slatted floors in the main pen and a bedded pack in the lambing pens. This approach allows you to capture the advantages of each system while minimizing the disadvantages. **How often should I remove a bedded pack?** Most producers remove the pack once or twice a year. The best time is in spring, when the weather is dry and the manure can be spread on fields. Some producers also remove the pack in fall before the winter lambing season. The pack should be removed when it becomes too deep to manage easily, when the bottom layer becomes anaerobic and smells strongly, or when it becomes difficult to keep the top layer dry. ## Related Farming Guides This section will be populated with links to related sheep management guides, including articles on hoof care, barn ventilation, lambing facilities, and manure management. ## Related Clinical & Scientific Guides * [Sheep Grazing Lease: Terms, Rates, and Legal Considerations](/knowledge/animal-farming/sheep/sheep-grazing-lease-terms-rates-and-legal-considerations) * [Sheep Breed Selection for Meat, Wool, Dairy, and Low-Input Systems](/knowledge/animal-farming/sheep/sheep-breed-selection-for-meat-wool-dairy-and-low-input-systems) * [Sheep Barn Flooring for Hoof Health: Best Materials and Practices](/knowledge/animal-farming/sheep/sheep-barn-flooring-hoof-health-materials-practices) ## References - American Consortium for [Small Ruminant Parasite Control](/knowledge/veterinary-medicine/food-animal-medicine/small-ruminant-parasite-control-diagnostic-strategies-anthelmintic-stewardship) (ACSRPC): https://www.wormx.info/ - USDA APHIS Sheep Health: https://www.aphis.usda.gov/livestock-poultry-disease/sheep-goats - FAO Sheep and Goat Production: https://www.fao.org/animal-production/en/ - FAO Animal Production and Health: https://www.fao.org/animal-production/en/ - WOAH (World Organisation for Animal Health): https://www.woah.org/en/home/ > This article is educational and is not a substitute for veterinary diagnosis, treatment, public-health guidance, or regulatory reporting.