# Rabbit Run Design: Safe and Secure Outdoor Exercise Areas ## Key Takeaways - **Structural Integrity and Material Selection:** Utilize 14-gauge or heavier welded wire mesh with openings no larger than 1x1 inch for sides and top to prevent predator entry and rabbit escape; bury wire at least 12 inches deep or create an outward-extending skirt to thwart digging. - **Spatial Requirements and Environmental Enrichment:** Provide a minimum of 8 square feet of floor space per rabbit, with larger areas being optimal for natural behaviors; incorporate hiding spots, tunnels, and digging boxes to reduce stress and promote mental well-being. - **Predator Defense Strategies:** Implement a multi-layered approach including buried wire skirts, secure roofing to prevent aerial and climbing predator access, and robust latches on doors to deter intelligent predators like raccoons. - **Location and Maintenance Protocols:** Position runs in partial shade with good drainage, away from toxic plants, and ensure daily checks for damage, predator signs, and adequate water; move portable runs every 1-3 days to prevent overgrazing and parasite buildup. - **Health and Safety Considerations:** Rabbits are crepuscular and sensitive to heatstroke; never leave them unsupervised, especially during dawn and dusk, and monitor daily for signs of illness, injury, or stress, consulting a veterinarian for any concerns. --- Rabbits need daily exercise to maintain healthy digestion, strong muscles, and good mental well-being. A well-designed rabbit run gives your animals safe outdoor access without exposing them to predators, escape risks, or harmful plants. This guide covers everything you need to know about building, placing, and maintaining a secure outdoor rabbit run. It is written for small-scale farmers, homesteaders, and backyard rabbit keepers who want practical, buildable solutions that protect their animals. ## At a Glance - A rabbit run should provide at least 8 square feet of floor space per rabbit, with more space always being better. - Use 14-gauge or heavier welded wire mesh with openings no larger than 1 inch by 1 inch for the sides and top. - Bury wire at least 12 inches deep around the perimeter or use a solid skirt extending 18 to 24 inches outward to prevent digging escapes. - Place the run in partial shade with access to fresh water at all times. - Check the run daily for damage, signs of digging, or predator attempts. - Move portable runs every 1 to 3 days to prevent grass from being eaten to the roots and to reduce parasite buildup. - Never leave rabbits unsupervised in a run, especially during dawn, dusk, or nighttime hours when predators are most active. - Provide hiding spots inside the run so rabbits can retreat if they feel threatened. ## Why Outdoor Exercise Matters for Rabbits Rabbits are crepuscular animals, meaning they are most active during dawn and dusk. In the wild, they spend hours each day grazing, hopping, digging, and exploring. Domestic rabbits retain these instincts. Without adequate exercise space, rabbits can develop obesity, muscle weakness, gastrointestinal stasis, and behavioral problems like chewing on cage bars or aggression. A rabbit run serves several important purposes. It gives rabbits room to perform natural behaviors like running, jumping, and grazing. It exposes them to sunlight, which helps with vitamin D synthesis. It provides environmental enrichment that reduces stress and boredom. And it allows you to rotate your rabbits on pasture, which can reduce feed costs during warm months. The key word in rabbit run design is security. Rabbits are prey animals. They are vulnerable to dogs, cats, foxes, raccoons, hawks, owls, and even snakes. A run that is not predator proof can become a death trap rather than a safe exercise area. At the same time, the run must keep rabbits in as effectively as it keeps predators out. Rabbits are clever diggers and surprisingly good jumpers. A poorly designed run will lose rabbits quickly. ## Planning Your Rabbit Run Before you buy materials or swing a hammer, take time to plan. The decisions you make now will affect how easy the run is to maintain, how safe your rabbits are, and how long the structure lasts. ### Determining Run Size The minimum recommended space for a single rabbit in an exercise run is 8 square feet. That means a run measuring 2 feet by 4 feet would meet the bare minimum for one rabbit. However, this is truly a minimum. Most rabbit experts agree that bigger is better. A pair of medium-sized rabbits will thrive in a run of 16 to 32 square feet. If you have the space and budget, aim for 32 square feet per rabbit. This allows for natural running and jumping behavior. Consider the size of your rabbits when planning. A giant breed like a Flemish Giant needs substantially more room than a Netherland Dwarf. A good rule of thumb is that the run should be at least four times the length of the rabbit's fully stretched body in every direction. This gives the rabbit room to run in short bursts and to stand fully upright on its hind legs. Height matters too. Rabbits like to stand on their hind legs to survey their surroundings. The run should be at least 2 feet high for small breeds and 3 feet high for larger breeds. If you plan to walk inside the run to clean it or handle your rabbits, build it at least 4 feet high. ### Choosing a Location The location of your rabbit run affects your rabbits' comfort and safety throughout the year. Look for a spot that offers: **Partial shade.** Rabbits are sensitive to heat and can die from heatstroke quickly. A run in full sun becomes an oven during summer months. A run in full shade stays damp and muddy during wet weather. Aim for a location that gets morning sun and afternoon shade, or dappled shade throughout the day. If you cannot find a naturally shaded spot, plan to add shade cloth or a solid roof panel over part of the run. **Good drainage.** Low spots that collect water create muddy conditions that lead to sore hocks and fly problems. Choose a slightly elevated area with soil that drains well. If your property is flat and poorly drained, consider building a raised floor or adding a layer of gravel beneath the run. **Proximity to your house or barn.** You will check the run daily and move rabbits in and out regularly. A run that is a long walk from your main work area will get neglected. Keep it close enough that you can see it from a window or at least reach it easily. **Protection from prevailing winds.** Rabbits are more tolerant of cold than heat, but wind chill can be hard on them, especially when they are wet. Place the run where a building, fence, or hedge blocks the worst winter winds. **Separation from garden areas.** Rabbits will eat almost anything green. If your run is too close to your vegetable garden, your rabbits may reach through the wire and damage plants. They can also attract wild rabbits, which brings disease risk. Keep the run at least 3 feet away from garden beds. ### Considering a Permanent or Portable Run You have two basic options for rabbit run construction: permanent or portable. **Permanent runs** are built in place with posts set in concrete. They are sturdy and secure, but they cannot be moved. The ground inside a permanent run will eventually become bare and compacted. You will need to manage this by adding fresh sod, deep litter, or a solid floor. Permanent runs are best for rabbitries where the same animals will use the space for years. **Portable runs**, sometimes called tractors or arks, are built on skids or wheels. They are moved to fresh grass every day or two. This gives rabbits access to clean grazing and spreads their manure across your pasture. Portable runs are lighter and less predator proof than permanent structures, so they require more careful management. They are best for small flocks of 2 to 6 rabbits on a homestead. Many keepers use both types. A permanent run provides a safe base, and a portable run allows supervised grazing on fresh grass. Decide which approach fits your situation before you start building. ## Building a Secure Rabbit Run Once you have a plan, you can begin construction. The following sections walk through the key components of a predator proof rabbit run. ### Selecting Materials The materials you choose determine how long your run lasts and how well it protects your rabbits. Do not cut corners on wire or framing. Cheaper materials fail faster and can cost you animals. **Wire mesh.** This is the most important material in your run. Use welded wire mesh, not chicken wire. Chicken wire is too thin and flexible. A determined raccoon or dog can tear through it, and rabbits can chew through it. Galvanized welded wire with 14-gauge wire thickness is the minimum standard. Heavier 12-gauge wire is better for permanent runs. The mesh openings should be no larger than 1 inch by 1 inch. This keeps out weasels and young predators that can squeeze through larger openings. It also prevents rabbits from sticking their heads through the wire and injuring themselves. For the floor, you have options. A wire floor allows urine and droppings to fall through, keeping the run cleaner. Use 14-gauge wire with 1 inch by 2 inch openings for flooring. Make sure the wire is stretched tight and supported by framing every 12 to 18 inches so it does not sag. Some keepers prefer a solid floor of wood, concrete, or packed gravel. Solid floors are easier on rabbit feet but require more cleaning. If you use a solid floor, provide a resting board so rabbits can get off cold or wet surfaces. **Framing lumber.** Use pressure-treated lumber for any wood that touches the ground or will be exposed to moisture. Untreated lumber rots quickly and will weaken the structure. For above-ground framing, you can use cedar, which is naturally rot resistant, or standard construction lumber that you paint or seal. Avoid lumber treated with chromated copper arsenate (CCA) for areas where rabbits can chew. Modern pressure-treated lumber uses safer chemicals, but rabbits should not be allowed to chew on any treated wood. **Fasteners.** Use galvanized screws, nails, and staples. Regular steel fasteners rust quickly outdoors. Screws hold better than nails and allow you to disassemble the run if needed. Use fence staples to attach wire to wood framing, spacing them every 4 to 6 inches. **Roofing.** The top of the run must be covered to keep out hawks, owls, and climbing predators. You can use the same welded wire mesh for the roof, but you will need additional framing to support it. A solid roof of corrugated metal or polycarbonate panels provides shade and rain protection, but it can make the run hot in summer. Many keepers use a combination: wire mesh covered by shade cloth or a partial solid roof. ### Step-by-Step Construction Process Follow these steps to build a sturdy, secure rabbit run. This guide describes a permanent run measuring 4 feet wide, 8 feet long, and 3 feet tall, which provides 32 square feet of space for 2 to 4 rabbits. **Step 1: Prepare the site.** Clear the area of vegetation and level the ground. Remove any rocks or debris that could injure rabbits. Mark the corners of your run with stakes and string. **Step 2: Dig post holes.** Dig holes at each corner and at the midpoint of the long sides. Holes should be 12 inches deep and 6 inches wide. Set 4x4 pressure-treated posts in the holes and fill with concrete. Use a level to make sure each post is plumb. Allow the concrete to cure for 24 to 48 hours before continuing. **Step 3: Build the frame.** Attach 2x4 lumber horizontally between the posts at the top and bottom. This creates the frame that supports the wire. Use galvanized screws. Add a middle rail on each side for additional support if you are using lightweight wire. **Step 4: Install the floor.** If you are using a wire floor, attach the mesh to the bottom frame using fence staples. Make sure the wire is pulled tight so it does not sag. Overlap the edges of wire panels by at least 2 inches and secure them together with wire ties. If you are using a solid floor, install plywood or decking boards and seal the edges. **Step 5: Install the side walls.** Attach wire mesh to the outside of the frame, starting at the bottom and working up. Use fence staples every 4 to 6 inches. Overlap seams between panels by at least 2 inches. Make sure the wire extends to the ground so there are no gaps at the bottom. **Step 6: Bury the bottom edge.** Dig a trench 12 inches deep along the outside of the run. Bend the bottom of the wire mesh outward at a 90 degree angle so it extends 12 inches into the trench. This creates an underground skirt that prevents rabbits from digging out and predators from digging in. Backfill the trench and tamp the soil firmly. This step is critical. Rabbits can dig surprisingly fast, and a predator like a fox or dog will dig under a fence that does not extend below ground. **Step 7: Install the roof.** Attach wire mesh to the top frame. If you are using a solid roof panel, install it over the wire mesh. Make sure the roof is securely attached so a heavy predator like a raccoon cannot lift it. **Step 8: Add a door.** Build a door on one end or side of the run. The door should be at least 18 inches wide and the full height of the run so you can enter comfortably. Frame the door with 2x4 lumber and cover it with the same wire mesh. Attach it with heavy-duty hinges and add a latch that is secure against raccoons, which are clever at opening simple latches. A double latch system or a carabiner clip adds security. **Step 9: Inspect everything.** Walk around the run and check every seam, corner, and attachment point. Look for gaps larger than 1 inch, loose wire, or weak spots. Test the door latches. Check that the wire is tight and does not sag anywhere. Fix any problems before you put rabbits in the run. ### Making the Run Predator Proof Predator proofing is not a single step. It is a mindset that applies to every part of your design. Here are the key considerations: **Ground predators.** Dogs, foxes, coyotes, raccoons, and weasels will all attempt to dig into a rabbit run. The buried wire skirt described above is your first defense. In addition, you can lay large flat stones or paving slabs around the outside of the run. This makes digging more difficult and gives you a clean walking surface. Some keepers also install an electric fence wire around the outside of the run, 4 to 6 inches above the ground, to deter persistent predators. **Climbing predators.** Raccoons and some cats can climb wire mesh. The roof of your run must be completely secure. If you use a solid roof, make sure it is firmly attached to the frame. If you use wire mesh, use heavier gauge wire and make sure it is stretched tight. Raccoons can pull up loose wire. Adding a second layer of mesh over the roof, offset by half a square, makes it much harder for a predator to get through. **Flying predators.** Hawks and owls can take a small rabbit from an open run. The wire roof is your primary defense. Do not leave the roof open even during the day. Hawks hunt during daylight hours, and owls hunt at night. Some keepers add a solid roof panel over part of the run to give rabbits a protected area where they cannot be seen from above. **Snakes.** In areas with large snakes, a 1 inch by 1 inch mesh will keep out most species. If you live in an area with very large snakes, consider using 1 inch by 1/2 inch mesh for the lower 12 inches of the run. ### Adding Features Inside the Run A bare wire box is not an inviting exercise area. Add features that encourage natural behavior and give rabbits a sense of security. **Hiding places.** Rabbits feel safest when they can retreat to a dark, enclosed space. Add a wooden box, a section of large PVC pipe, or a commercial rabbit hideout. Place it in a corner away from the door. A hiding place with two entrances is best, so a rabbit never feels trapped. **Tunnels.** Rabbits love to run through tunnels. You can buy commercial rabbit tunnels or make your own from large PVC pipe, flexible drainage pipe, or stacked hay bales with a gap in the middle. Make sure tunnels are wide enough for your largest rabbit to turn around in. **Digging boxes.** Instead of letting your rabbits dig out of the run, give them a place to dig safely. Fill a large plastic tub or wooden box with soil, sand, or shredded paper. Bury a treat like a piece of carrot or a few pellets in the digging box to encourage foraging behavior. **Chew toys.** Rabbits need to chew to keep their teeth healthy. Provide untreated wood blocks, willow branches, or commercial rabbit chew toys. Do not use wood from cherry, apricot, peach, or plum trees, as these are toxic to rabbits. **Sitting platforms.** Rabbits like to sit up high to survey their surroundings. Add a sturdy wooden platform or a large flat rock that is stable enough to support your rabbits' weight. **Water and food.** Always provide fresh water in the run, especially during warm weather. Use a heavy ceramic bowl or a water bottle that cannot be tipped over. If rabbits will be in the run for more than a few hours, provide hay and a small amount of pellets. ## Portable Rabbit Run Options Portable runs, also called rabbit tractors or arks, are an excellent way to give rabbits fresh grass while protecting them from predators. They are lighter and less expensive than permanent runs, but they require more daily management. ### Building a Simple Rabbit Tractor A basic rabbit tractor is a triangular or rectangular frame covered with wire mesh, with an open bottom that sits on the grass. The frame is set on skids or small wheels so you can drag it to a new spot. To build a simple A-frame tractor: 1. Cut two 2x4 boards to the desired length of the tractor. These are your base rails. 2. Cut two more 2x4 boards to the desired height of the tractor. These are your end supports. 3. Attach the end supports to the base rails at each end, forming an A shape. 4. Cover the frame with welded wire mesh, leaving the bottom open. 5. Add a wire or plywood door on one end for access. 6. Attach skids or wheels to the bottom corners. The A-frame design is stable and easy to move. The sloping sides shed rain and provide shade inside. ### Managing a Portable Run The main advantage of a portable run is that it moves. You must move it regularly to give rabbits fresh grass and to prevent parasite buildup. Follow these guidelines: **Move frequency.** Move the tractor every 1 to 3 days, depending on the size of the tractor and the number of rabbits. The goal is to give rabbits fresh grass without letting them eat the grass down to the roots. If the grass is short or the tractor is small, move it daily. **Grass height.** Move the tractor when the grass is about 4 to 6 inches tall. Grass that is too short does not provide enough grazing, and grass that is too tall can be tough and unpalatable. **Rest periods.** Do not put the tractor back on the same spot for at least 3 weeks after moving it. This allows the grass to recover and breaks the life cycle of internal parasites like coccidia. **Weather considerations.** Portable runs provide less protection from weather than permanent runs. In hot weather, move the tractor to a shaded area or add shade cloth over the top. In wet weather, move the tractor to higher ground where drainage is better. Do not leave rabbits in a portable run during heavy rain, thunderstorms, or extreme heat. **Nighttime security.** Portable runs are easier for predators to breach than permanent runs. If you cannot bring rabbits indoors at night, move the tractor to a secure building, garage, or predator proof enclosure. Many keepers bring rabbits inside at night and use the tractor only during daylight hours. ## Common Mistakes in Rabbit Run Design Even experienced keepers make mistakes when building rabbit runs. Here are the most common problems and how to avoid them. ### Using Chicken Wire Chicken wire is the most common mistake in rabbit run construction. It is cheap and easy to work with, but it is not adequate for predator protection. Raccoons can tear through it with their claws. Dogs can push through it. Rabbits can chew through it. Always use welded wire mesh with 14-gauge or heavier wire. ### Ignoring the Digging Problem Many new keepers build a beautiful run with secure sides and roof, then lose rabbits to digging. Rabbits are natural diggers. They will tunnel under a fence that does not extend below ground. The buried wire skirt is not optional. It is essential. If you cannot bury wire, you must use a solid floor. ### Leaving Gaps at the Corners Wire mesh is sold in panels, and you must join panels at corners and seams. Any gap larger than 1 inch is an invitation for a weasel or a young raccoon. Overlap seams by at least 2 inches and secure them with wire ties or hog rings. Check seams regularly and repair any that come loose. ### Using a Door That Does Not Close Securely A flimsy door or a weak latch is a weak point in your defense. Raccoons are remarkably good at opening simple latches. Use a heavy-duty latch that requires two hands to open, or add a carabiner clip as a secondary lock. Make sure the door swings freely and seals tightly against the frame. ### Putting the Run in Full Sun Rabbits overheat quickly. A run in full sun, especially with a solid roof, can reach dangerous temperatures within an hour on a summer day. Always provide shade. If natural shade is not available, use shade cloth or build a partial solid roof that blocks direct sun. ### Forgetting About Water Rabbits need constant access to fresh water. A run without water is dangerous, especially in warm weather. Use a heavy bowl that cannot be tipped or a bottle that is securely attached to the frame. Check water levels every time you visit the run, and refresh the water daily. ### Overcrowding the Run A run that is too small for the number of rabbits causes stress, fighting, and injury. Follow the space guidelines in this article. If you have more rabbits than the run can hold, build a larger run or rotate rabbits in groups. ### Ignoring Maintenance A rabbit run is not a set-and-forget structure. It requires regular inspection and maintenance. Wire rusts, staples pull out, posts shift, and predators test the perimeter. Check the run at least weekly and repair any damage immediately. ## Deciding When to Use a Run vs. Other Housing Not every rabbit needs a run, and not every situation calls for one. Here are some decision thresholds to help you choose the right approach. **Use a permanent run when:** - You have 4 or more rabbits that will use the space regularly. - You want a structure that requires minimal daily management. - You can dedicate a permanent area of your property to rabbits. - You need maximum predator protection. **Use a portable run when:** - You have 1 to 6 rabbits and want to give them fresh grass. - You want to spread manure across your pasture. - You can commit to moving the run every 1 to 3 days. - You can bring rabbits indoors or into a secure building at night. **Use indoor exercise instead when:** - You live in an area with extreme weather conditions. - You cannot provide adequate predator protection outdoors. - Your rabbits are elderly, sick, or recovering from injury. - You have very valuable breeding stock that you cannot risk losing. **Do not use an outdoor run when:** - There is a disease outbreak in your area. Check with your veterinarian or local extension office. - The ground is extremely wet or muddy. - Temperatures are above 85 degrees Fahrenheit or below 20 degrees Fahrenheit. - You cannot supervise the rabbits at least twice daily. ## Monitoring and Recordkeeping A rabbit run is not just a structure. It is part of your rabbit management system. Keep records and monitor your rabbits to catch problems early. ### Daily Checks Every day, perform a quick visual check of the run. Look for: - Signs of digging around the perimeter. - Loose or damaged wire. - Open or damaged latches. - Rabbits that look stressed, injured, or unwell. - Fresh water and adequate food. - Accumulated feces that needs cleaning. - Signs of predators, such as tracks, scat, or disturbed soil. ### Weekly Inspections Once a week, do a more thorough inspection. Walk the entire perimeter. Check all seams and corners. Test the door latches. Look for rust or corrosion on the wire. Check the condition of the floor. Trim any vegetation that has grown against the run, as this can provide cover for predators and allow rabbits to reach plants outside the run. ### Health Monitoring While rabbits are in the run, watch for signs of illness or injury. Healthy rabbits are alert, active, and eating well. Contact your veterinarian if you notice: - Reduced appetite or refusal to eat. - Reduced fecal output or abnormal droppings. - Lethargy or reluctance to move. - Labored breathing or discharge from the nose or eyes. - Limping or reluctance to bear weight on a leg. - Sores on the feet or hocks. - Hair loss, scratching, or visible parasites. - Swelling, lumps, or signs of injury. ### Recordkeeping Keep a simple log of your rabbit run management. Record: - Dates the run was cleaned and what cleaning was done. - Dates the portable run was moved and where it was moved to. - Any repairs made and what materials were used. - Any predator sightings or attempts. - Any health issues observed in rabbits using the run. - Weather conditions, especially extreme heat or cold. These records help you identify patterns. For example, if you notice predator attempts increase during certain months, you can step up your defenses. If rabbits develop foot problems, you may need to change your flooring. ## Seasonal Care for Your Rabbit Run The needs of your rabbit run change with the seasons. Plan ahead so your rabbits stay safe and comfortable year round. ### Spring Spring is the time to do major repairs and prepare for the active season. Check the run after winter weather has passed. Repair any frost heave damage to posts or the buried skirt. Replace any rusted wire. Clean the run thoroughly and add fresh bedding or substrate. Watch for new plant growth that may reach into the run. Some common garden plants are toxic to rabbits, so remove anything dangerous that grows near the run. ### Summer Summer heat is the biggest threat to rabbits in outdoor runs. Ensure the run has adequate shade throughout the day. Provide extra water sources and check them more frequently. Consider adding a frozen water bottle or ceramic tile that rabbits can lie against to cool down. Move portable runs to shaded areas or add shade cloth. Do not exercise rabbits during the hottest part of the day. Move them to the run in the early morning or late evening instead. ### Fall Fall is a good time to do maintenance before winter. Clean the run thoroughly and remove any accumulated manure. Check the roof for leaks and repair any damage. Stock up on bedding materials. As the weather cools, rabbits will use the run less, but they still need daily exercise. On mild days, give them access to the run. On cold or wet days, provide indoor exercise opportunities instead. ### Winter Rabbits tolerate cold better than heat, but they still need protection from wind and wet. The run should have a solid roof or a windbreak on the prevailing wind side. Provide extra bedding if the run has a solid floor. Check water frequently to prevent freezing. Use a heated water bottle or bowl, or bring water indoors and refresh it several times daily. Do not leave rabbits in the run during storms or extreme cold snaps. ## When to Call a Veterinarian or Extension Agent Most rabbit run problems are structural or management issues that you can solve yourself. However, some situations require professional help. **Call your veterinarian if:** - A rabbit is injured, especially if the injury involves bleeding, a broken bone, or a deep wound. - A rabbit shows signs of illness, such as reduced appetite, lethargy, diarrhea, or labored breathing. - A rabbit has been attacked by a predator, even if the injuries look minor. Internal injuries may not be visible. - You notice signs of parasites, such as excessive scratching, hair loss, or visible fleas or mites. - A rabbit has not produced normal droppings for more than 12 hours. This can be a sign of gastrointestinal stasis, which is an emergency. **Call your extension agent if:** - You are planning a new rabbitry and want advice on best practices for your area. - You have questions about pasture management for portable runs. - You are seeing unusual disease symptoms that you cannot identify. - You need help developing a biosecurity plan for your rabbit operation. - You want information about local regulations regarding outdoor animal housing. **Contact your state or federal animal health authorities if:** - You see signs of reportable diseases such as tularemia or [rabbit hemorrhagic disease](/knowledge/veterinary-medicine/small-mammal-care/rabbit-hemorrhagic-disease-rhdv2-prevention-outbreak-management). Contact your state veterinarian or USDA APHIS immediately. ## Frequently Asked Questions ### How much space does a rabbit need in an exercise run? A single rabbit needs at least 8 square feet of floor space in an exercise run. This is a true minimum. For a pair of medium-sized rabbits, plan for 16 to 32 square feet. Larger breeds need more space. The run should also be tall enough for the rabbit to stand fully upright on its hind legs, which is at least 2 feet for small breeds and 3 feet for larger breeds. More space is always better. Rabbits that have room to run, jump, and perform natural behaviors are healthier and less stressed. ### Can I use chicken wire for a rabbit run? No. Chicken wire is not adequate for a rabbit run. It is too thin and flexible. Raccoons and dogs can tear through it, and rabbits can chew through it. Use galvanized welded wire mesh with 14-gauge or heavier wire. The mesh openings should be no larger than 1 inch by 1 inch. This keeps out small predators like weasels and prevents rabbits from injuring themselves by sticking their heads through the wire. ### How do I stop rabbits from digging out of the run? The most effective method is to bury a wire skirt around the perimeter. Dig a trench 12 inches deep along the outside of the run. Bend the bottom of the wire mesh outward at a 90 degree angle so it extends 12 inches into the trench. Backfill and tamp the soil. Rabbits will hit the buried wire when they try to dig out. Alternatively, use a solid floor of wood, concrete, or packed gravel. Some keepers use both methods for maximum security. ### Should the rabbit run have a roof? Yes. The roof is essential for predator protection. Hawks and owls can take a rabbit from an open run. Raccoons can climb over the sides. The roof can be made of the same welded wire mesh as the sides, or you can use a solid roof panel. Many keepers use wire mesh covered by shade cloth or a partial solid roof. The roof also provides shade and some protection from rain and snow. ### How often should I move a portable rabbit run? Move a portable run every 1 to 3 days, depending on the size of the run and the number of rabbits. The goal is to give rabbits fresh grass without letting them eat it down to the roots. If the grass is short or the run is small, move it daily. After moving, do not return the run to the same spot for at least 3 weeks. This allows the grass to recover and breaks the life cycle of internal parasites. ### Can I leave rabbits in the run overnight? It depends on the security of your run and the predators in your area. A well-built permanent run with a buried wire skirt, secure roof, and sturdy latches can be safe overnight. However, many predators are most active at night, and even the best run can be breached. If you have valuable rabbits or live in an area with many predators, bring rabbits indoors or into a secure building at night. Portable runs should never be left outside overnight without supervision. ### What should I put on the floor of the rabbit run? You have several options. A wire floor keeps the run cleaner and prevents digging, but it can be hard on rabbit feet. Use 14-gauge wire with 1 inch by 2 inch openings and provide a resting board. A solid floor of wood, concrete, or packed gravel is easier on feet but requires more cleaning. If you use a solid floor, add a layer of straw or wood shavings for comfort and absorbency. For portable runs on grass, the grass itself is the floor, and you move the run before the grass is destroyed. ### What plants are toxic to rabbits if they grow near the run? Many common garden plants are toxic to rabbits. These include azalea, rhododendron, foxglove, lily of the valley, oleander, yew, and tomato leaves. Rabbits can reach through the wire and nibble plants growing nearby, so keep the area around the run clear of vegetation. Remove any plants you are unsure about. When in doubt, check with your veterinarian or extension agent before allowing rabbits access to a new area. ## Related Farming Guides This section will be populated with related farming guides. Check back soon for links to articles on [rabbit housing](/knowledge/veterinary-medicine/small-mammal-care/rabbit-housing-indoor-vs-outdoor-hutches-and-enrichment), rabbit nutrition, rabbit health management, and pasture management for small livestock. ## Related Clinical & Scientific Guides * [Rabbit Housing for Meat Production: Efficient and Humane Systems](/knowledge/animal-farming/rabbits/rabbit-housing-meat-production-efficient-humane) * [Raising Meat Rabbits From Weaning to Processing Weight](/knowledge/animal-farming/rabbits/raising-meat-rabbits-from-weaning-to-processing-weight) * [Rabbit Cage Sizing and Space Requirements by Breed and Stage](/knowledge/animal-farming/rabbits/rabbit-cage-sizing-space-requirements-breed-stage) ## References - FAO [Rabbit Production](/knowledge/animal-farming/rabbits/rabbit-welfare-and-enrichment-meeting-behavioral-needs-in-production-systems): https://www.fao.org/animal-production/en/ - USDA APHIS Rabbit Health: https://www.aphis.usda.gov/livestock-poultry-disease - FAO Animal Production and Health: https://www.fao.org/animal-production/en/ - WOAH (World Organisation for Animal Health): https://www.woah.org/en/home/ > This article is educational and is not a substitute for veterinary diagnosis, treatment, public-health guidance, or regulatory reporting.