# Rabbit Nesting Boxes: Design and Placement for Successful Kindling ## Key Takeaways - Provide a nesting box approximately 28-30 days post-breeding, 2-3 days prior to the estimated kindling date, to allow the doe to prepare the nest and pull fur. - Ensure the nesting box design incorporates a front lip of 4-8 inches (depending on breed size) to retain newborn, hairless kits while allowing doe access, and a solid floor or a wire floor with a solid insert to prevent kit injury or escape. - Utilize dust-free, absorbent nesting materials such as timothy hay, straw, or kiln-dried pine shavings, avoiding cedar shavings due to their respiratory and hepatic toxicity. - Place the nesting box in the quietest, most secure corner of the cage, away from waterers and feeders, and orient the entrance to provide privacy and minimize disturbance to the doe during this critical period. - Conduct daily nest checks post-kindling, handling kits minimally to assess for viability, remove deceased kits or soiled bedding, and confirm nursing success by observing round, full kit bellies. --- Raising rabbits means preparing for kindling, the process of a doe giving birth. The nesting box is one of the most critical pieces of equipment you will own. A properly designed and placed rabbit nesting box can mean the difference between a healthy litter and one that is lost to cold, injury, or neglect. This guide covers everything you need to know about choosing, building, placing, and managing nesting boxes for your rabbitry. It is written for both new rabbit keepers and experienced breeders who want to refine their systems for better kindling outcomes. ## At a Glance Here are the most important practical takeaways from this guide: - Provide a nesting box to the doe about 28 to 30 days after breeding, which is roughly 2 to 3 days before her expected kindling date. - Use a box that lets the doe enter and exit easily but keeps newborn kits inside. A 12 to 14 inch high front lip works for most medium breeds. - Match box size to breed. A standard box of about 18 inches long, 10 inches wide, and 12 inches high suits medium breeds like New Zealands and Californians. - Use a solid floor or a wire floor with a solid insert. Do not let kits fall through wire mesh. - Fill the box with clean, dust-free nesting material such as hay, straw, or pine shavings. Do not use cedar shavings. - Place the box in the quietest part of the cage, away from the waterer and feeder, and position it so the doe can see approaching threats. - Check the nest daily after kindling but handle kits sparingly. Remove dead kits and soiled bedding promptly. - Keep records of breeding dates, box placement dates, kindling dates, litter sizes, and any problems so you can improve your management each cycle. ## Why Nesting Boxes Matter A doe in the wild does not give birth in the open. She digs a burrow, lines it with fur and grass, and creates a safe, warm chamber for her young. Domestic rabbits retain this instinct. When you provide a nesting box, you are replicating that burrow. This matters for several reasons. First, newborn rabbits are born hairless, blind, and completely dependent on their mother for warmth. They cannot regulate their own body temperature for the first week of life. If they are scattered across a wire cage floor, they will chill quickly and die. A nesting box concentrates the kits in one place where they can huddle together and stay warm. Second, a doe will often kindle on the wire floor if no box is available. The kits can fall through the mesh or be injured by the doe's movements. A box gives her a defined space to deliver her young. Third, the box protects kits from other animals. In an outdoor rabbitry, predators such as rats, raccoons, and snakes can reach through cage wire. A solid-sided box makes it harder for them to grab a kit. It also protects kits from other rabbits if you house multiple animals in a colony setting. Fourth, a nesting box helps the doe focus her maternal behavior. Rabbits do not stay with their young continuously. They visit the nest once or twice a day to nurse. A defined nest site makes this routine predictable for both the doe and the keeper. ## Design Principles for a Rabbit Nesting Box The ideal rabbit nesting box is simple, durable, and easy to clean. You can buy commercial boxes or build your own. Either way, the design should follow a few core principles. ### Size and Dimensions Nesting box size should match the breed of rabbit you raise. A box that is too large makes it hard for the kits to find each other and stay warm. A box that is too small can cause the doe to accidentally trample her young when she enters and exits. Use these general guidelines: - Small breeds such as Netherland Dwarfs and Polish: 12 inches long, 8 inches wide, 8 inches high - Medium breeds such as New Zealands, Californians, and Rex: 18 inches long, 10 inches wide, 12 inches high - Large breeds such as Flemish Giants and French Lops: 24 inches long, 14 inches wide, 14 inches high The length dimension is the most important. The doe should be able to stretch out comfortably inside the box. She will spend time in the box before kindling, pulling fur and arranging bedding. A cramped box causes stress. ### The Front Lip The front of the nesting box should have a lower lip or opening that allows the doe to step in and out easily. This lip also keeps kits inside. A lip height of 4 to 6 inches works for medium breeds. For small breeds, use a 3 to 4 inch lip. For large breeds, use a 6 to 8 inch lip. Some designs use a V-shaped notch in the front. This lets the doe step over the lip while making it harder for kits to climb out. Kits do not usually wander until they are about 2 weeks old, at which point the lip no longer contains them. That is fine. By then they are mobile and will start exploring the cage. ### Floor Type The floor of the nesting box needs careful consideration. There are two main options. A solid floor is the most common and the safest. You can use plywood, plastic, or metal. Solid floors keep bedding contained and provide a flat surface for the kits. The downside is that urine and moisture can soak into the floor. You must clean and dry the box between uses. A wire floor with a solid insert is another option. Some commercial cages have a wire floor throughout. You can place a solid plastic or wood insert inside the box to cover the wire. This prevents kits from catching their legs in the mesh. Never allow newborn kits to rest directly on wire mesh. Their legs are too small and can slip through, causing injury. Some keepers prefer a wire floor with a layer of bedding on top. This allows urine to drain away from the kits. The bedding stays drier. If you choose this option, make sure the wire mesh is fine enough that kits cannot pass through. Half inch mesh is generally safe for kits. A solid insert is simpler and works well for most operations. ### Materials Choose materials that are easy to sanitize and that resist moisture. Galvanized metal is a popular choice. It is durable, easy to clean, and does not absorb urine. The main drawback is that metal conducts heat. In cold climates, a metal box can become very cold. You will need extra bedding to insulate the kits. Plastic boxes are lightweight and easy to clean. They do not absorb moisture. Some commercial plastic boxes have textured floors to prevent slipping. Plastic can become brittle in very cold weather, so check for cracks regularly. Wood is a traditional material. It insulates well and is inexpensive. The problem is that wood absorbs urine and harbors bacteria. You must seal the wood with a safe, non-toxic finish and replace boxes when they become worn. Pine and fir are common choices. Do not use treated lumber, as the chemicals can harm rabbits. ### Removable vs. Fixed Boxes You can attach the nesting box to the inside or outside of the cage, or you can use a removable box that sits on the cage floor. Inside boxes are the simplest. You place them on the floor of the cage. The doe can access them freely. The downside is that the box takes up floor space, which can make the cage feel cramped for a large doe. Outside boxes attach to the side of the cage. You cut an opening in the cage wall and mount the box externally. This saves floor space and allows you to check kits without opening the cage. Outside boxes are more common in commercial rabbitries. They require more construction work and must be securely attached. Removable boxes are useful for cleaning. You can lift the entire box out of the cage, empty the bedding, and sanitize it. This is the easiest system for small rabbitries with a few does. ## How to Build a Simple Wooden Nesting Box You can build a functional nesting box in about an hour with basic tools. Here is a simple plan for a medium breed box. ### Materials - One piece of 1/2 inch plywood, 4 feet by 2 feet - Wood screws, 1 inch long - Wood glue - Sandpaper or a file - Non-toxic wood sealant or paint ### Tools - Circular saw or hand saw - Drill with screwdriver bit - Measuring tape - Square ### Cutting List Cut the plywood into these pieces: - Two sides: 18 inches long by 12 inches high - One back: 10 inches wide by 12 inches high - One front: 10 inches wide by 12 inches high, with a 4 inch lip cut into the bottom edge - One bottom: 18 inches long by 10 inches wide ### Assembly Steps 1. Sand all cut edges to remove splinters. 2. Lay the bottom piece on a flat surface. 3. Attach the two side pieces to the long edges of the bottom. Use wood glue and screws. The sides should sit flush with the bottom. 4. Attach the back piece to the back edge of the bottom and between the two sides. 5. Attach the front piece to the front edge of the bottom and between the two sides. The front should have a 4 inch opening at the bottom for the doe to enter. 6. Check that all corners are square and all joints are tight. 7. Apply a non-toxic wood sealant or paint to the inside and outside. Allow it to dry completely before use. ### Optional Features You can add a hinged lid to the top of the box. This lets you check kits without reaching into the cage and disturbing the doe. A lid is especially useful for outside-mounted boxes. You can also add a small ramp or step inside the box. Some does appreciate a step to help them enter and exit. This is more important for large breeds with heavy bodies. ## Nesting Material for Rabbits The material you put inside the nesting box is just as important as the box itself. The doe will arrange it to create a nest. She will also pull fur from her chest and belly to line the nest. Your job is to give her clean, safe material to work with. ### Good Nesting Materials Hay is the most common nesting material. Timothy hay, orchard grass, and oat hay all work well. Hay provides structure and insulation. It is also safe if the doe or kits eat it. Choose soft, leafy hay without sharp stems or mold. Straw is another option. It is less nutritious than hay but provides good insulation. Wheat straw and oat straw are common choices. Straw can be more coarse than hay, so some keepers mix it with softer material. Pine shavings work well as a base layer. They absorb moisture and provide a soft floor. Use kiln-dried pine shavings. Do not use cedar shavings. Cedar contains oils that can cause respiratory problems in rabbits. Paper-based bedding is a safe alternative. Shredded paper and commercial paper bedding are dust-free and absorbent. They are more expensive than hay or straw but work well for does with respiratory sensitivities. ### Materials to Avoid Do not use cedar shavings. The aromatic oils in cedar can damage a rabbit's respiratory system and liver. Do not use dusty or moldy hay. Mold spores can cause respiratory disease in both the doe and the kits. Do not use synthetic materials such as polyester fiberfill or shredded plastic. These do not absorb moisture and can cause digestive blockages if eaten. Do not use newspaper alone. The ink can transfer to the kits and the paper does not provide good insulation. If you use newspaper, place it under a layer of hay or shavings. ### How Much Nesting Material to Use Fill the box about half to two-thirds full with nesting material. The doe will rearrange it to her liking. She will dig, push, and shape the material into a nest cup. If the box is too full, she cannot arrange it properly. If it is too empty, the kits will not have enough insulation. A good rule of thumb is to use a generous handful of hay or straw for a medium breed. Add more if the weather is cold. In winter, you can add extra material to help the kits stay warm. ### When to Add Nesting Material Add fresh nesting material when you place the box in the cage, at around day 28 of gestation. Check the box daily. If the doe has pulled a lot of fur or if the weather is cold, add more material. Some does will ignore the box until the last moment. This is normal. Others will begin carrying hay and fur into the box days before kindling. Let the doe do the work. Your job is to provide the material and keep it clean. ## When to Place the Nesting Box Timing matters. If you put the box in too early, it becomes soiled with urine and feces. If you put it in too late, the doe may kindle on the wire floor. The standard recommendation is to place the nesting box in the cage at day 28 of gestation. Rabbit gestation is about 31 days. This gives the doe 2 to 3 days to investigate the box, arrange the bedding, and pull fur. Some breeders place the box at day 27. This is fine for does that tend to kindle early. Others wait until day 29. This works for does that do not use the box until the last minute. The key is to observe your does and learn their patterns. If you are not sure when the doe was bred, place the box when you first notice her pulling fur. Fur pulling is a strong sign that kindling is near. Most does pull fur within 24 hours of kindling. ### Signs That Kindling Is Near Watch for these signs in the days before kindling: - The doe pulls fur from her chest, belly, and sides - She carries hay or other material to the nesting box - She spends more time in the box - Her appetite may decrease - She becomes restless or aggressive - Her belly looks distended and you can see movement Not all does show all of these signs. Some does, especially first-time mothers, show little preparation. The nesting box should always be in place by day 28 regardless of visible signs. ## Placement of the Nesting Box in the Cage Where you put the box inside the cage affects how the doe uses it and how safe the kits are. ### Location Within the Cage Place the box in the quietest corner of the cage. Rabbits feel vulnerable when they are exposed. A corner gives the doe a sense of security because she has walls on two sides. Position the box away from the waterer and feeder. Does will sometimes tip the waterer or scatter feed when they are moving bedding around. Keeping the box away from these areas reduces mess. If your cage has a solid floor or a resting mat, place the box on that surface. This keeps the box stable. On a wire floor, the box can shift as the doe moves around. You may need to secure it with wire ties or clips. ### Orientation of the Box Face the opening of the box away from the main traffic area of the barn or house. This gives the doe privacy. It also prevents other animals from seeing the kits. Some breeders face the opening toward the center of the cage so they can see the kits easily. This works if the cage is in a quiet area. The important thing is that the doe feels safe enough to use the box. ### Securing the Box A doe can easily tip a lightweight box. This is dangerous for newborn kits. Secure the box so it cannot move. If the box sits on a wire floor, use wire ties or small carabiners to attach it to the cage floor or wall. If the box sits on a solid floor, you can place a heavy object against it or use a bracket. Do not make the box so secure that you cannot remove it for cleaning. You need to check kits and clean the box regularly. ### Temperature Considerations Placement affects temperature. In cold weather, position the box away from drafts and doors. In hot weather, position it in the coolest part of the cage, away from direct sunlight. If you raise rabbits outdoors, consider the direction of prevailing winds. Place the box so the opening is on the lee side, away from the wind. This keeps the kits warmer in winter. In very cold climates, you may need extra measures. Some breeders add a heat lamp near the box or use a heated pad under the box. These devices carry fire risk and must be used with care. A well-filled box with plenty of hay and fur is usually sufficient for most climates. ## Managing the Nest After Kindling Once the doe kindles, your work begins. Proper nest management in the first few days is critical for kit survival. ### The First Check Check the nest within 12 hours of kindling. You need to know how many kits were born and whether any are dead. Approach the cage quietly. Do not startle the doe. If she is in the box, gently encourage her to leave. Some does will not want to leave. You can offer a small treat to lure her out. When you check the nest, do not handle the kits more than necessary. Newborn kits are fragile. Their bones are soft and their skin is delicate. A quick count is enough. Remove any dead kits or afterbirth that is still in the nest. Remove any bedding that is heavily soiled with blood or feces. Be careful not to disturb the nest structure too much. The doe arranged it a specific way. ### How Often to Check Check the nest once daily for the first week. This is enough to catch problems without stressing the doe. After the first week, kits start to grow fur and become more robust. You can check less often. Once the kits open their eyes, around day 10, they become more active. You can begin handling them briefly to check for health problems. ### Signs of a Healthy Nest A healthy nest has these characteristics: - The kits are warm to the touch - They are huddled together in the nest cup - Their bellies are round and full - Their skin is pink and elastic - They are quiet and sleep most of the time If the kits are cold, scattered, or crying constantly, something is wrong. Check the bedding and add more if needed. If the kits are not nursing, you may need to intervene. ### Nursing Behavior Rabbits nurse their young only once or twice a day. This is normal. Do not be alarmed if you rarely see the doe in the box. She visits briefly, nurses the kits, and leaves. Nursing usually happens at dawn or dusk. The doe stands over the nest and the kits attach to her nipples. The entire session lasts only 2 to 5 minutes. If you want to confirm that the kits are nursing, check their bellies. A well-fed kit has a round, full belly. If the belly is flat and wrinkled, the kit is not getting enough milk. ### Dealing With a Doe That Ignores the Nest Most does are good mothers. Some, especially first-time mothers, may ignore their kits. This is stressful for the keeper. If a doe has not nursed her kits within 24 hours of kindling, you may need to intervene. First, check whether the kits are warm. If they are cold, warm them slowly in your hands or against your body before returning them to the nest. If the doe continues to ignore the kits, you have a few options. You can try to hold the doe over the nest to encourage her to nurse. Some breeders place the doe in a small space with the nest box for a few minutes. This forces her to interact with the kits. If the doe still refuses, you may need to foster the kits to another doe or hand-raise them. Fostering is simpler. Find a doe that kindled around the same time and has a small litter. Rub the foster kits with some of the foster doe's fur or bedding to mask their scent. Place them with the foster litter. Most does will accept them. ### Handling Kits Newborn kits can be handled briefly for health checks. The old myth that a doe will reject kits touched by humans is not true. Rabbits do not rely heavily on scent to recognize their young. Still, minimize handling. Each time you handle a kit, you stress it. Limit handling to the daily nest check for the first week. After that, you can handle kits for longer periods as part of their socialization. ## Common Mistakes in Nesting Box Management Even experienced rabbit keepers make mistakes. Here are the most common problems and how to avoid them. ### Placing the Box Too Early A box placed at day 21 or 22 of gestation will be soiled by the time kindling comes. The doe will urinate and defecate in the box. She may also ignore a dirty box and kindle elsewhere. Place the box no earlier than day 27. If you use a removable box, you can offer it earlier and remove it if it becomes soiled. Some breeders place a clean box at day 28 and replace it with a fresh one if the doe soils it. ### Using the Wrong Size Box A box that is too small forces the doe to curl up tightly. She may accidentally trample her kits when she enters and exits. A box that is too large lets kits scatter and cool down. Measure your does before choosing a box. A medium breed doe needs a box that allows her to stretch out. If you raise multiple breeds, keep different box sizes on hand. ### Insufficient Bedding A thin layer of bedding does not insulate kits. In cold weather, kits can die of hypothermia within hours. Fill the box generously and add more bedding if the weather turns cold. Remember that the doe will rearrange the bedding. She will push it to the sides to create a nest cup. If you only put a handful of hay, there will not be enough left to cover the kits. ### Ignoring Nest Cleanliness A soiled nest is a breeding ground for bacteria and parasites. Fly strike, where flies lay eggs on the kits, is a serious risk in warm weather. Check the nest daily and remove soiled material promptly. Replace the entire bedding if it becomes wet or heavily soiled. Do this quickly and gently. The doe may be upset by the disturbance, but a clean nest is more important. ### Disturbing the Nest Too Often Some keepers check the nest multiple times a day. This stresses the doe and can cause her to abandon the nest. Check once daily and trust the process. Resist the urge to handle kits frequently. Each handling session is stressful. Let the kits grow and develop without constant interference. ### Not Keeping Records If you do not record breeding dates, kindling dates, and litter sizes, you cannot learn from your mistakes. Keep a simple notebook or spreadsheet. Record the doe's name or ear number, the buck's name, the breeding date, the box placement date, the kindling date, the number of kits born, and any problems. Over time, these records show patterns. You will learn which does need the box earlier, which does are good mothers, and which lines have problems with nest building. ## Nesting Boxes for Different Housing Systems The type of housing you use affects your nesting box choices. ### Wire Cages Wire cages are the most common housing for rabbits. They are easy to clean and provide good airflow. Nesting boxes for wire cages can be inside or outside. Inside boxes sit on the cage floor. They are simple and easy to remove. The main issue is that they take up floor space. A medium breed doe in a standard 30 by 30 inch cage will have less room to move with a box inside. Outside boxes attach to the side of the cage. You cut a 6 by 6 inch opening in the wire and mount the box externally. This saves floor space and makes nest checks easier. Outside boxes need to be securely attached to prevent them from falling. ### Colony Housing Colony housing, where multiple rabbits live together, presents special challenges. Does may fight over nesting sites. Kits from different litters can mix. In a colony, provide more nesting boxes than there are pregnant does. Place boxes in separate corners of the enclosure. This gives each doe a chance to claim her own space. Check the colony frequently during kindling season. Mixing litters can cause problems. If a doe kindles in a shared box, the kits may be confused. Some breeders separate pregnant does from the colony before kindling. Others allow the does to kindle in the colony and manage the mixing. ### Outdoor Hutches Outdoor hutches expose nesting boxes to the elements. Rain, wind, and temperature swings all affect the nest. Use a box with a solid lid for outdoor hutches. This keeps rain out and provides insulation. Position the box so the opening faces away from prevailing winds. In winter, add extra bedding. Some breeders add a layer of straw around the outside of the box for insulation. In summer, make sure the box is in the shade. Overheating is as dangerous as cold for newborn kits. ## Monitoring and Recordkeeping Good recordkeeping is the foundation of a successful rabbitry. You cannot improve what you do not measure. ### What to Record For each kindling, record: - Doe identification (ear number, tattoo, or name) - Buck identification - Breeding date - Expected kindling date - Box placement date - Actual kindling date - Number of kits born alive - Number of kits born dead - Number of kits weaned - Any health problems - Notes on the doe's behavior ### How to Use Your Records Review your records after each kindling. Look for patterns. Does that consistently kindle early may need the box placed at day 27. Does that consistently kindle late may need the box at day 29. Does that produce large litters may need a larger box. Does that trample their kits may need a box with a lower lip. Records also help you identify problem does. If a doe consistently produces dead kits or refuses to nurse, you may need to cull her from the breeding program. ### Health Monitoring Watch the kits for signs of health problems: - Lethargy or weakness - Failure to gain weight - Diarrhea or soiled fur around the tail - Discharge from the eyes or nose - Missing fur or skin lesions - Excessive crying If you notice any of these signs, act quickly. Separate affected kits if possible and consult a veterinarian. ### When to Call a Veterinarian or Extension Agent Most kindling proceeds without problems. However, some situations require professional help. Call a veterinarian if: - The doe has been in labor for more than 2 hours without producing a kit - The doe appears distressed or in pain - There is excessive bleeding - The doe is unable to stand or move normally - A kit is stuck in the birth canal - You suspect an infection, such as mastitis or metritis - Multiple kits die without an obvious cause Call your local extension agent if: - You are new to rabbit raising and need guidance on basic management - You have questions about local regulations for [rabbit housing](/knowledge/veterinary-medicine/small-mammal-care/rabbit-housing-indoor-vs-outdoor-hutches-and-enrichment) - You need help identifying a disease outbreak - You want guidance on breeding programs or nutrition Extension agents can also connect you with local rabbit breeder associations and educational resources. ## Troubleshooting Nesting Problems Even with good management, problems occur. Here are common issues and how to address them. ### Kits Found Outside the Box Kits can end up outside the box for several reasons. The doe may have kindled outside the box and then moved the kits in. She may have accidentally kicked a kit out while entering or exiting. Or she may have abandoned the nest. If you find a kit outside the box, warm it in your hands before returning it to the nest. A cold kit will not nurse properly. Check the nest for warmth and add bedding if needed. If kits repeatedly end up outside the box, check the lip height. A lip that is too low allows kits to crawl out once they become mobile. A lip that is too high makes it hard for the doe to enter and exit without bumping the kits. ### Doe Kindling on the Wire Floor If a doe kindles on the wire floor, the kits are at risk. They can fall through the mesh or chill quickly. If you find kits on the wire floor, move them to the nesting box immediately. Warm them first if they are cold. Check for injuries. Kits that have fallen through the wire may have cuts or broken legs. After the emergency is handled, review your timing. The box may have been placed too late. Some does need the box by day 27. Others need it earlier if they are first-time mothers. ### Doe Not Pulling Fur Fur pulling is a natural instinct, but not all does do it. A doe that does not pull fur may still be a good mother. She may have enough bedding to keep the kits warm without fur. If the weather is cold and the doe has not pulled fur, add extra bedding. You can also add a layer of cotton or wool from a safe source. Do not use synthetic fibers. Some breeders pull fur from the doe themselves and place it in the nest. This is safe if done gently. The fur provides insulation and helps the kits find the nipples. ### Kits Not Nursing If kits are not nursing, they will die within 24 to 48 hours. Check their bellies for signs of milk. A well-fed kit has a round, firm belly. If the kits are not nursing, try to hold the doe over the nest. Some does will nurse when they are placed in position. If this does not work, you may need to foster the kits to another doe or hand-raise them. Hand-raising kits is time-intensive. You will need to feed them a milk replacer every few hours, day and night. The survival rate for hand-raised kits is lower than for mother-raised kits, but it is possible. ### Mastitis in the Doe Mastitis, an infection of the mammary glands, is a serious condition. Signs include: - Swollen, red, or hot mammary glands - Refusal to nurse - Lethargy - Fever - Loss of appetite If you suspect mastitis, separate the doe from her kits and call a veterinarian. Mastitis can be fatal if untreated. The kits will need to be fostered or hand-raised while the doe recovers. ## Seasonal Considerations for Nesting Boxes The time of year affects nesting box management. ### Winter Kindling Winter is the hardest time for newborn kits. They are born hairless and cannot regulate their body temperature. A well-insulated nest is essential. Use extra bedding in winter. Fill the box nearly full with hay or straw. Add a layer of pine shavings at the bottom for moisture absorption. The doe's fur provides additional insulation. If you raise rabbits outdoors, consider moving the cage into a sheltered area during winter. A three-sided shed or a windbreak can make a big difference. Some breeders use heat lamps, but these carry fire risk and must be used with caution. Check the nest more frequently in winter. Kits can chill quickly if the bedding becomes damp. Replace wet bedding promptly. ### Summer Kindling Heat is also dangerous for kits. In hot weather, the nest can become too warm. Kits can become dehydrated and die. Use less bedding in summer. A thin layer of hay or shavings is enough. Position the box in the coolest part of the cage. Make sure the cage has good airflow. If the temperature exceeds 85 degrees Fahrenheit, take extra precautions. Provide frozen water bottles in the cage for the doe to lean against. Mist the cage with water to cool the air. Check the kits frequently for signs of heat stress, such as panting or lethargy. ### Transitional Seasons Spring and fall bring their own challenges. Temperatures can swing dramatically from day to night. A nest that is comfortable in the afternoon may be too cold at night. Use moderate bedding in transitional seasons. Check the forecast and adjust bedding accordingly. If a cold snap is predicted, add extra bedding. If a warm spell is predicted, remove some. ## Cleaning and Sanitizing Nesting Boxes Proper cleaning between uses prevents disease transmission and keeps your rabbitry healthy. ### When to Clean Clean the nesting box immediately after the kits are weaned, which is usually at 4 to 6 weeks of age. Remove the box from the cage and empty all bedding. If a litter dies or is lost, clean the box immediately. Do not reuse a box from a diseased litter without thorough disinfection. ### How to Clean Follow these steps: 1. Remove all bedding and debris from the box. 2. Scrape off any caked-on material. 3. Wash the box with hot, soapy water. Use a brush to remove all residue. 4. Rinse thoroughly. 5. Disinfect with a rabbit-safe disinfectant. A 10 percent bleach solution works well. Soak the box for 10 minutes. 6. Rinse again to remove all disinfectant residue. 7. Dry the box completely in the sun or in a well-ventilated area. Do not use harsh chemicals that can harm rabbits. Avoid products with strong fumes. Always rinse thoroughly after disinfecting. ### Storing Boxes Store clean boxes in a dry, sheltered area. Stack them so they do not collect dust or moisture. Check stored boxes before each use for cracks, warping, or other damage. Wooden boxes need regular inspection. Wood can warp, split, or rot over time. Replace damaged boxes promptly. A cracked box can injure kits or allow them to escape. ## Buying a Commercial Nesting Box If you prefer not to build your own, commercial nesting boxes are widely available. They come in metal, plastic, and wood. ### Metal Boxes Galvanized metal boxes are durable and easy to clean. They are common in commercial rabbitries. Look for boxes with rolled edges to prevent injury. Metal boxes conduct heat, so they need extra bedding in winter. ### Plastic Boxes Plastic boxes are lightweight and easy to sanitize. They do not absorb moisture. Look for boxes made from heavy-duty plastic that will not crack in cold weather. Some plastic boxes have textured floors to prevent slipping. ### Wood Boxes Commercial wooden boxes are less common but still available. They provide good insulation and are attractive. Look for boxes made from smooth, sealed wood. Avoid boxes with rough edges or splinters. ### What to Look For When buying a commercial box, check: - Size matches your breed - Smooth edges and no sharp points - Sturdy construction - Easy to clean - Front lip height is appropriate - Box is stable and will not tip easily Read reviews from other rabbit keepers before buying. A box that works well for one breed may not work for another. ## Advanced Nesting Box Designs Experienced breeders sometimes modify their nesting boxes for specific purposes. ### Double-Walled Boxes Double-walled boxes have an inner and outer layer with an air gap between them. This provides extra insulation for cold climates. You can build a double-walled box by making the box slightly larger and inserting a smaller box inside. ### Hinged-Lid Boxes A hinged lid allows you to check kits without disturbing the doe. The lid can be opened from above while the box stays in place. This is especially useful for outside-mounted boxes. ### Divided Boxes Divided boxes have an internal partition. The doe uses one side for the nest and the other side for herself. This keeps the nest cleaner and gives the doe a place to rest without sitting on her kits. ### Elevated Boxes Elevated boxes sit above the cage floor on legs or brackets. This keeps the box off the wire and provides airflow underneath. Elevated boxes are more common in commercial operations. ## Frequently Asked Questions ### How many days before kindling should I put the nesting box in? Place the nesting box in the cage at day 28 of gestation. Rabbit gestation is about 31 days. This gives the doe 2 to 3 days to investigate the box, arrange the bedding, and pull fur. If you are not sure of the breeding date, place the box when you first notice the doe pulling fur. ### What is the best nesting material for rabbits? Good nesting materials include timothy hay, straw, pine shavings, and paper-based bedding. Fill the box about half to two-thirds full. The doe will rearrange the material to create a nest cup. Do not use cedar shavings, as the oils can cause respiratory problems. ### How big should a rabbit nesting box be? Match the box size to the breed. Small breeds need a box about 12 inches long, 8 inches wide, and 8 inches high. Medium breeds need a box about 18 inches long, 10 inches wide, and 12 inches high. Large breeds need a box about 24 inches long, 14 inches wide, and 14 inches high. ### How do I know if my rabbit is about to kindle? Signs that kindling is near include fur pulling, carrying hay to the nest box, spending more time in the box, decreased appetite, and restlessness. Some does show all of these signs, while others show few. Always have the nesting box in place by day 28 of gestation. ### Why does my rabbit keep throwing her kits out of the nest box? Kits can end up outside the box for several reasons. The doe may have accidentally kicked them out when entering or exiting. The lip may be too low. The box may be too small. Or the doe may be a poor mother. Warm any kit found outside the box and return it to the nest. If the problem continues, check the box design and the doe's behavior. ### How often should I check the nest after kindling? Check the nest once daily for the first week. This is enough to catch problems without stressing the doe. Look for dead kits, soiled bedding, and signs of health problems. After the first week, you can check less often. ### My doe is not nursing her kits. What should I do? First, confirm that the kits are not nursing. Check their bellies. A well-fed kit has a round, full belly. If the kits are not nursing, try holding the doe over the nest. Some does will nurse when placed in position. If this does not work, you may need to foster the kits to another doe or hand-raise them. ### Can I use cedar shavings in my rabbit nesting box? No. Cedar shavings contain aromatic oils that can cause respiratory problems and liver damage in rabbits. Use pine shavings, hay, straw, or paper-based bedding instead. ### How do I clean a rabbit nesting box? Remove all bedding and debris. Wash the box with hot, soapy water. Rinse thoroughly. Disinfect with a rabbit-safe disinfectant, such as a 10 percent bleach solution. Rinse again and dry completely before storing or reusing. ### What should I do if my doe kindles on the wire floor? Move the kits to the nesting box immediately. Warm them first if they are cold. Check for injuries. Kits that have fallen through the wire may have cuts or broken legs. After the emergency is handled, review your timing. The box may have been placed too late. ## Related Farming Guides This section will be populated with related farming guides to help you continue learning about [rabbit care](/knowledge/veterinary-medicine/exotic-small-animals/rabbit-care-dental-malocclusion-and-incisor-trimming-procedure) and other livestock topics. Check back for new guides on breeding management, kit health, and rabbitry setup. ## Related Clinical & Scientific Guides * [Rabbit Housing for Meat Production: Efficient and Humane Systems](/knowledge/animal-farming/rabbits/rabbit-housing-meat-production-efficient-humane) * [Raising Meat Rabbits From Weaning to Processing Weight](/knowledge/animal-farming/rabbits/raising-meat-rabbits-from-weaning-to-processing-weight) * [Rabbit Cage Sizing and Space Requirements by Breed and Stage](/knowledge/animal-farming/rabbits/rabbit-cage-sizing-space-requirements-breed-stage) ## References - FAO [Rabbit Production](/knowledge/animal-farming/rabbits/rabbit-welfare-and-enrichment-meeting-behavioral-needs-in-production-systems): https://www.fao.org/animal-production/en/ - USDA APHIS Rabbit Health: https://www.aphis.usda.gov/livestock-poultry-disease - FAO Animal Production and Health: https://www.fao.org/animal-production/en/ - WOAH (World Organisation for Animal Health): https://www.woah.org/en/home/ > This article is educational and is not a substitute for veterinary diagnosis, treatment, public-health guidance, or regulatory reporting.