# Rabbit Nest Box Placement and Temperature Management ## Key Takeaways - **Critical Temperature Ranges:** Maintain nest box temperatures between 65-80°F (18-27°C) and room temperatures for kindling at 60-70°F (15-21°C). Newborn kits require a body temperature of 90-95°F (32-35°C), which they cannot self-regulate initially. - **Nest Box Placement and Design:** Position nest boxes in cage corners, away from drafts and direct sunlight, to ensure thermal stability and protection. A lip at the entrance prevents kits from exiting prematurely, and a solid bottom offers better insulation than wire. - **Behavioral Indicators and Intervention:** Monitor does for pre-kindling behaviors like fur pulling, which begins 5-7 days prior to birth. Provide the nest box by day 26-27 of gestation; if fur pulling is insufficient, gently supplement with fur or clean cloth to ensure adequate insulation. - **Temperature Monitoring and Emergency Care:** Daily nest box temperature checks are crucial during the first week. Recognize signs of chilling (blue/pale kits, stillness) or overheating (red/pink kits, panting) and respond with gradual warming or cooling measures, avoiding rapid temperature shifts that can be fatal. - **Supplemental Heat and Environmental Control:** In cold conditions, use supplemental heat sources like 100-watt heat lamps (at least 18 inches away), pet-specific heating pads (low setting, partial coverage), or insulated hot water bottles. In summer, prioritize shade, ventilation, and extra water to prevent heat stress in does and kits. --- Raising rabbits successfully depends on many small details, and few are more important than getting the nest box right. This guide covers everything you need to know about nest box placement and temperature management for your rabbitry. You will learn how to set up nest boxes for kindling, how to keep newborn kits warm without overheating them, and how to troubleshoot common problems. This information is written for new rabbit owners, small-scale farmers, and established breeders who want to improve their litter survival rates. ## At a Glance | Key Factor | Recommended Range or Practice | |---|---| | Nest box temperature | 65 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit (18 to 27 degrees Celsius) | | Newborn kit body temperature | 90 to 95 degrees Fahrenheit (32 to 35 degrees Celsius) | | Room temperature for kindling | 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit (15 to 21 degrees Celsius) | | Nest box placement | In the cage, away from drafts and direct sunlight | | Bedding depth | 3 to 4 inches of clean straw or hay | | Fur coverage | Doe should pull fur to cover kits completely | | Check kits | Once daily, during the first week | | Emergency warming | 100 watt heat lamp at a safe distance or a hot water bottle wrapped in cloth | | Danger signs | Blue or pale kits, kits scattered in the cage, kits squeaking constantly | ## Understanding Rabbit Nesting Behavior Rabbits have a strong instinct to build nests before giving birth. This behavior is controlled by hormones that shift in the days before kindling. Understanding this natural process helps you know what to expect and when to intervene. ### The Pre-Kindling Nesting Period About 5 to 7 days before kindling, a pregnant doe will start showing nesting behaviors. She may become restless, rearrange her bedding, and pull fur from her chest, belly, and sides. Fur pulling is not random. The doe is creating a soft, insulating layer for her kits and exposing her nipples for easier nursing. Some does pull fur heavily while others pull very little. First-time mothers sometimes build no nest at all or build a poor one. This is a common reason for kit losses in young does. You can help by providing a well-made nest box and clean bedding materials well before the due date. ### When to Provide the Nest Box Place the nest box in the doe's cage on day 26 or 27 of gestation. Rabbit pregnancies last about 31 days. Giving the doe a few days to investigate, rearrange, and settle into the box improves the chance that she will use it properly. A doe introduced to a nest box only hours before kindling may be confused and kindle outside the box. ### Signs That Kindling Is Near Watch for these signs in the final days before birth: - The doe pulls fur from her body - She carries hay or straw in her mouth - She digs or scratches at the cage floor - Her appetite decreases - She becomes more territorial or defensive - Her belly appears large and low Not every doe shows all of these signs. Some does kindle with no warning at all. This is why having the nest box in place by day 26 is so important. ## Rabbit Nest Box Temperature Requirements Temperature management is the single most important factor in newborn kit survival. Newborn rabbits cannot regulate their own body temperature for the first several days of life. They depend entirely on the nest environment and their mother's presence. ### The Critical First Week Newborn kits arrive blind, hairless, and completely helpless. Their body temperature drops quickly if they become separated from the nest or if the nest is too cold. A kit that gets chilled can die within hours. The ideal temperature inside the nest box is 65 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit (18 to 27 degrees Celsius). The kits huddle together in the fur-lined nest, and their combined body heat raises the temperature around them. The doe covers them with her fur and bedding, creating a microclimate that is warmer than the surrounding air. ### Room Temperature Considerations The temperature in the rabbitry or barn matters as much as the temperature inside the nest box. If the room is too cold, the nest box cannot hold enough heat to keep kits warm. If the room is too hot, the doe may avoid the nest box and the kits may overheat. For kindling and the first week after birth, aim for a room temperature of 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit (15 to 21 degrees Celsius). This range gives the doe a comfortable environment while allowing the nest box to maintain its own warmer microclimate. ### How Cold Is Too Cold When room temperature drops below 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius), the risk of kit death rises sharply. The doe's fur and the bedding provide some insulation, but they cannot fully compensate for freezing conditions. Kits in a cold nest will pile on top of each other in a tight ball. They may appear blue or pale. Their skin may feel cold to the touch. They may stop moving and become unresponsive. If you see these signs, act quickly. Warm the kits gradually and address the room temperature problem. Never place cold kits directly under a heat lamp or on a heating pad. The sudden temperature change can kill them. ### How Hot Is Too Hot Heat is a less common problem than cold, but it can be just as deadly. When room temperature exceeds 85 degrees Fahrenheit (29 degrees Celsius), the doe may spend less time in the nest box. She may also fail to pull enough fur because she is trying to stay cool. Kits in an overheated nest may spread out instead of huddling. They may appear red or pink and feel hot to the touch. They may pant or breathe rapidly. In extreme heat, the doe may refuse to enter the nest box at all. This leaves kits exposed and hungry. If you notice kits scattered around the cage rather than in the nest, heat stress may be the cause. ## Nest Box Placement for Rabbits Where you place the nest box inside the cage has a significant impact on temperature stability and kit survival. The goal is to find a spot that is protected from drafts, direct sunlight, and the doe's traffic patterns. ### Choosing the Right Location Place the nest box in a corner of the cage, away from the door and away from the water bottle or crock. A corner position gives the box support on two sides, which helps it stay in place when the doe enters and exits. It also creates a more enclosed, den-like feeling that matches the doe's instincts. Avoid placing the nest box directly under a heat lamp or near a heat vent. These heat sources can create hot spots that overheat the kits. Avoid placing the nest box in a drafty area, such as near a window, door, or fan. ### Orientation of the Nest Box The opening of the nest box should face the center of the cage, not the wall. This allows the doe to enter and exit easily. It also lets you see into the box when you check on the kits. Some breeders place the box with the opening facing a solid wall and cut a separate entrance hole. This creates a darker, more secure environment. Either method works as long as the doe can access the box comfortably. ### Securing the Nest Box A nest box that slides around the cage can injure kits or cause the doe to avoid it. Secure the box by wedging it in a corner or using clips to attach it to the cage wire. Some cages have built-in nest box brackets. If your cage does not have brackets, you can use zip ties or wire to hold the box in place. Make sure the box is stable enough that it does not tip when the doe jumps in and out. A tipped nest box can trap kits underneath or scatter them across the cage floor. ### Indoor Versus Outdoor Placement Rabbits kept indoors have more stable temperatures year round. A heated or insulated rabbitry gives you the most control over nest box temperature. Rabbits kept outdoors in hutches face greater temperature swings. In winter, you may need to add insulation around the nest box. In summer, you may need to provide shade and ventilation. For outdoor rabbits, place the hutch in a location that gets morning sun but afternoon shade. This prevents the hutch from overheating during the hottest part of the day. In winter, place the hutch against a building wall or use a windbreak to reduce drafts. ## Selecting the Right Nest Box The nest box itself plays a major role in temperature management. The material, size, and design all affect how well the box holds heat and protects the kits. ### Common Nest Box Materials Wood is the traditional choice for nest boxes. It insulates well and absorbs moisture. Use untreated pine or cedar. Avoid pressure-treated wood, which contains chemicals that can harm rabbits. Wood boxes need regular cleaning and replacement when they become soiled or chewed. Plastic nest boxes are easier to clean and disinfect than wood. They do not absorb urine as readily. However, plastic does not insulate as well as wood. In cold conditions, plastic boxes lose heat faster. Some plastic boxes have double walls or insulation to address this. Metal nest boxes are durable but poor insulators. They conduct heat and cold readily. Metal boxes are best used in temperature-controlled environments or lined with extra bedding. ### Nest Box Size The nest box should be large enough for the doe to turn around in but small enough to feel cozy and enclosed. For medium breeds like New Zealands and Californians, a box about 18 to 20 inches long, 10 to 12 inches wide, and 10 to 12 inches high works well. For smaller breeds like Netherland Dwarfs, use a smaller box. For giant breeds like Flemish Giants, you may need a custom box. A box that is too large lets heat escape and makes it harder for the kits to stay warm. A box that is too small can cause the doe to accidentally step on or crush her kits. ### Nest Box Design Features A good nest box has a lip or raised edge at the entrance. This lip keeps kits inside the box when the doe enters and exits. Without a lip, kits can crawl or be dragged out of the box and become chilled. Some nest boxes have a removable bottom or side panel. This makes cleaning easier and lets you check on kits without disturbing the nest. A solid bottom is preferable to a wire bottom. Wire floors let cold air reach the kits from below. ### Preparing the Nest Box Before placing the nest box in the cage, fill it with clean, dry bedding. Straw is the most common choice because it is inexpensive and holds its shape. Hay is softer but compacts more quickly. Wood shavings can be used as a base layer, but avoid cedar shavings, which can irritate the respiratory system. Fill the box about half full with bedding. The doe will rearrange it to suit her preferences. She will also pull fur and mix it into the bedding. A good nest is a cup-shaped depression lined with fur, with bedding mounded up around the sides. ## Step-by-Step Guide to Managing Nest Box Temperature Follow this step-by-step process to keep your kits at a safe temperature from kindling through the first two weeks of life. ### Step 1: Prepare the Environment Three days before the doe's due date, check the temperature in your rabbitry. If the temperature is below 60 degrees Fahrenheit (15 degrees Celsius), take steps to warm the area. Close windows, block drafts, and add a safe heat source. If the temperature is above 80 degrees Fahrenheit (27 degrees Celsius), increase ventilation and provide shade. ### Step 2: Install the Nest Box On day 26 or 27 of gestation, place the prepared nest box in the doe's cage. Position it in a corner, away from drafts and direct heat. Secure it so it cannot tip or slide. Leave the doe alone to investigate and arrange the box. ### Step 3: Monitor the Doe's Nesting Behavior Over the next few days, watch for fur pulling and nest building. The doe will rearrange the bedding and create a depression in the center. She may pull fur in stages. Some does pull most of their fur on the day of kindling. If the doe has not pulled fur by day 30, you can gently pull some fur from her belly and place it in the nest. This is a last resort and should be done carefully. Most does will pull their own fur once kindling begins. ### Step 4: Check the Kits After Kindling After the doe kindles, give her a few hours to clean the kits and nurse them. Then check the nest box. Count the kits and note their condition. Healthy kits are round, pink, and warm. They should be nestled together in the fur-lined nest. Remove any dead kits or afterbirth from the nest. Check that the kits are covered with fur and bedding. If the doe did not pull enough fur, add some from another doe or use a soft, clean cloth. ### Step 5: Check Temperature Daily For the first week, check the temperature in the nest box once daily. You can use a digital thermometer with a probe or an infrared thermometer. Place the probe gently among the kits or measure the temperature of the nest surface. The temperature should stay between 65 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit (18 to 27 degrees Celsius). If it is below 65 degrees, add more bedding or fur. If it is above 80 degrees, remove some bedding or improve ventilation. ### Step 6: Feed and Water the Doe Properly A nursing doe needs more food and water than usual. Provide unlimited hay and a high-quality rabbit pellet. Fresh, clean water must be available at all times. A doe that is dehydrated or underfed may neglect her kits or produce poor milk. ### Step 7: Keep Handling to a Minimum Handle kits as little as possible during the first week. Each time you open the nest box, heat escapes. Each time you handle a kit, you transfer your scent, which can disturb the doe. Check kits once daily and return them to the nest quickly. ## Common Mistakes in Nest Box Temperature Management Even experienced rabbit owners make mistakes with nest box temperature. Here are the most common problems and how to avoid them. ### Mistake 1: Checking Kits Too Often New owners often check kits several times a day because they are excited or worried. Each check opens the nest and lets warm air escape. In cold conditions, repeated checking can drop the nest temperature enough to chill the kits. Limit checks to once daily during the first week. If you must check more often, do it quickly and minimize how long the nest is open. ### Mistake 2: Using the Wrong Bedding Some bedding materials hold heat better than others. Straw is excellent because it traps air and provides insulation. Hay is softer but compacts and loses its insulating value. Newspaper and paper products absorb moisture but provide little warmth. Avoid using materials that are wet, moldy, or dusty. These can cause respiratory problems in kits and does. ### Mistake 3: Placing the Nest Box in Direct Sunlight Direct sunlight can raise the temperature inside a nest box dangerously fast. A box that is comfortable at 9 a.m. can become an oven by noon. Always place the nest box in a shaded area or provide shade over the cage. ### Mistake 4: Overheating the Room In an effort to keep kits warm, some owners turn up the heat in the entire rabbitry. This can make the doe uncomfortable and reduce her time in the nest. It can also cause the kits to overheat if the room temperature exceeds 85 degrees Fahrenheit (29 degrees Celsius). Remember that the nest box creates its own microclimate. You do not need a hot room to have warm kits. A room temperature of 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit (15 to 21 degrees Celsius) is sufficient. ### Mistake 5: Ignoring Signs of Chilling Kits that are cold may not cry loudly. They may become quiet and still as their metabolism slows. By the time they are visibly blue or unresponsive, they are in serious danger. Learn to recognize the early signs of chilling and act immediately. ### Mistake 6: Handling Chilled Kits Too Roughly When you find chilled kits, your instinct is to warm them as fast as possible. Rapid warming can kill them. Warm kits gradually by placing them against your body, using a warm water bottle wrapped in cloth, or using a low setting on a heating pad placed under half of the container. Never place chilled kits directly under a heat lamp or in hot water. The sudden temperature change causes shock and can be fatal. ## How to Warm Chilled Kits Safely Despite your best efforts, you may occasionally find kits that have become chilled. Acting quickly and correctly can save their lives. ### Assess the Situation Pick up the kit gently. A healthy kit feels warm and plump. A chilled kit feels cool or cold to the touch. Its skin may appear pale, blue, or gray. It may be limp or unresponsive. If the kit is still moving and vocalizing, it is mildly chilled. If it is still and silent, it is severely chilled and needs immediate attention. ### Warm the Kit Gradually For mildly chilled kits, hold them against your body for 10 to 15 minutes. Your body heat will warm them gradually. You can also place them in a small box lined with a soft cloth and set the box on a heating pad set to low. Place the box so that only half of it is on the heating pad. This lets the kit move away from the heat if it becomes too warm. For severely chilled kits, fill a hot water bottle with warm water. The water should feel comfortably warm to your wrist, not hot. Wrap the bottle in a towel and place the kit on top. Cover the kit with another towel. Check the kit every few minutes and turn it over so it warms evenly. ### Watch for Signs of Recovery A recovering kit will become more active and its skin will return to a healthy pink color. It may start to wiggle and make small sounds. Once the kit is warm and active, return it to the nest box. Place it in the center of the nest, surrounded by the other kits and covered with fur. ### Do Not Feed a Chilled Kit A chilled kit cannot digest milk properly. Feeding a cold kit can cause the milk to pool in its stomach and kill it. Always warm the kit first and wait until it is active before allowing it to nurse. ## When to Use Supplemental Heat In very cold conditions, the nest box may need supplemental heat. There are several safe ways to provide extra warmth. ### Heat Lamps A heat lamp can raise the temperature around the nest box, but it must be used correctly. Hang the lamp at least 18 inches above the nest box. Use a lamp with a ceramic socket and a bulb guard to prevent burns. Never place the lamp where the doe can reach it or where it can fall into the nest. Use a 100 watt bulb or lower. Higher wattage bulbs produce too much heat and can overheat the kits or start a fire. Check the temperature under the lamp regularly to ensure it stays in the safe range. ### Heating Pads A heating pad designed for pets can be placed under part of the nest box. Use the low setting and check the temperature regularly. The pad should cover only half of the box floor so the kits can move away from the heat if they get too warm. Never use a human heating pad. These get too hot and can cause burns or fires. Use only pads designed for animals. ### Hot Water Bottles A hot water bottle wrapped in a towel can be placed under the bedding in the nest box. This provides gentle, localized heat. Check the bottle every few hours and refill it with warm water as it cools. Make sure the bottle does not leak and that the doe cannot chew it. ### Insulating the Nest Box In extreme cold, you can add insulation around the outside of the nest box. Wrap the box in a towel, blanket, or foam insulation. Leave the entrance open so the doe can access the kits. This simple step can make a significant difference in maintaining nest temperature. ## Managing Nest Box Temperature in Summer Heat stress is a serious problem for rabbits in summer. Does that are overheated may not build good nests or may abandon their kits. Kits that overheat can die just as quickly as those that get too cold. ### Keep the Rabbitry Cool Provide shade over the rabbitry and ensure good airflow. Use fans to circulate air, but do not point them directly at the nest box. Evaporative coolers can help in dry climates. In extreme heat, move rabbits indoors to an air-conditioned space. ### Adjust Nest Box Placement In summer, place the nest box in the coolest part of the cage. This is often the side that faces away from the afternoon sun. You may also want to remove some bedding so the nest does not hold too much heat. ### Provide Extra Water A nursing doe needs more water than usual. Provide an extra water bottle or crock during hot weather. Check water levels twice daily and refill as needed. ### Watch for Overheating Signs Kits that are too warm will spread out instead of huddling. They may appear red or flushed. They may pant or breathe rapidly. If you see these signs, remove some bedding and ensure airflow around the nest box. ## Monitoring and Recordkeeping Good recordkeeping helps you improve your rabbitry over time. Track temperature data and kit outcomes to identify patterns and make better decisions. ### What to Record For each litter, record the following: - Date of breeding and expected kindling date - Date of kindling and number of kits born - Number of kits alive at day 1, day 7, and day 14 - Nest box temperature at each check - Room temperature at each check - Any problems observed - Any interventions you made ### How to Use Your Records Review your records after each litter. Look for patterns. Did kits die when the room temperature dropped below a certain point? Did the doe pull less fur in hot weather? Did certain nest box placements work better than others? Use this information to adjust your management practices. Over time, you will learn what works best for your specific setup and climate. ### Tools for Monitoring A simple digital thermometer with a probe is sufficient for most rabbitries. Place the probe in the nest box among the kits and read the temperature. An infrared thermometer lets you measure temperature without touching the kits, which is less disruptive. Consider using a maximum-minimum thermometer to track temperature ranges over 24 hours. This helps you identify dangerous overnight temperature drops. ## Common Nesting Problems and Solutions Even with careful management, problems can arise. Here are some common issues and how to handle them. ### Doe Does Not Pull Fur Some does, especially first-time mothers, do not pull fur before kindling. This leaves kits exposed and cold. If the doe has not pulled fur by the time she kindles, you can pull fur gently from her belly and place it over the kits. If the doe resists, use soft, clean cloth or cotton batting as a substitute. ### Doe Kindles Outside the Nest Box A doe may kindle on the cage floor if the nest box is not ready or if she does not recognize it as a nest. If you find kits on the cage floor, warm them if needed and move them into the nest box. Remove any bedding that is soiled with blood or afterbirth. ### Doe Scatters Kits Around the Cage A nervous or stressed doe may scatter her kits. This is dangerous because kits on the cage floor become chilled quickly. If you find scattered kits, return them to the nest box and cover them with fur and bedding. Try to reduce stress in the rabbitry by limiting noise and activity. ### Doe Abandons the Nest A doe that refuses to enter the nest box or nurse her kits may be ill, stressed, or have a painful condition like mastitis. Check the doe for signs of illness. Check her nipples for swelling or redness. If she is healthy but still refuses to nurse, you may need to foster the kits to another doe or hand-raise them. ### Kits Are Squeaking Constantly Healthy kits are quiet most of the time. They may squeak when nursing or when the doe enters the nest. Constant squeaking can mean the kits are cold, hungry, or injured. Check the nest temperature and the kits' condition immediately. ### Kits Are Scattered and Cold If you find kits scattered across the cage and cold to the touch, act quickly. Warm them gradually as described above. Return them to the nest box and check the nest box placement and bedding. Determine why the kits left the nest and fix the problem. ## When to Call a Veterinarian Most nest box issues can be handled with good management. However, some situations require professional help. ### Signs That You Need Veterinary Assistance Call a veterinarian if you see any of the following: - The doe shows signs of illness, such as lethargy, loss of appetite, or discharge - The doe has a fever or appears to be in pain - Multiple kits die without an obvious cause - Kits have visible injuries or deformities - The doe has not kindled by day 34 of gestation - The doe is straining or appears to be in difficulty during kindling - You suspect mastitis or another infection ### What to Tell the Veterinarian When you call, be ready to provide details about the doe's history, the kindling date, the number of kits, and any symptoms you have observed. This information helps the veterinarian assess the situation and give you appropriate advice. ### Emergency Situations If a doe is in obvious distress during kindling, if there is heavy bleeding, or if a kit is stuck in the birth canal, seek emergency veterinary care immediately. These situations are rare but require prompt professional attention. ## Long-Term Management for Better Litter Survival Improving nest box temperature management is one part of raising healthy rabbits. A comprehensive approach includes good genetics, proper nutrition, and sound husbandry. ### Select for Good Mothering Breed rabbits from does that build good nests, pull adequate fur, and care for their kits well. Over time, you will improve the mothering instincts of your herd. Keep records of which does produce the best litters and breed from those lines. ### Maintain Good Nutrition A doe that is well-nourished before and during pregnancy is better able to build a good nest and produce milk. Provide a high-quality pellet formulated for [breeding rabbits](/knowledge/animal-farming/rabbits/how-to-start-breeding-rabbits-a-beginner-s-guide-to-responsible-practices). Supplement with good hay. Ensure fresh water is always available. ### Keep the Rabbitry Clean A clean rabbitry reduces the risk of disease. Clean nest boxes between litters. Disinfect cages and equipment regularly. Remove soiled bedding promptly. Good hygiene reduces the chance of infections that can kill kits or sicken the doe. ### Plan for the Seasons Adjust your management practices for the seasons. In winter, prepare for cold weather by having extra bedding and heat sources ready. In summer, plan for heat by ensuring shade, ventilation, and water supplies. Knowing what to expect helps you act before problems develop. ## Frequently Asked Questions ### What is the ideal rabbit nest box temperature? The ideal temperature inside the nest box is 65 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit (18 to 27 degrees Celsius). The kits huddle together and their combined body heat helps maintain this range. The room or rabbitry temperature should be 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit (15 to 21 degrees Celsius) during kindling and the first week after birth. ### How do I know if my rabbit kits are too cold? Cold kits may appear blue or pale. They may be quiet and still instead of active and wiggly. They may pile tightly on top of each other. Their skin may feel cool to the touch. If you suspect kits are cold, check the nest box temperature and warm the kits gradually. ### How do I know if my rabbit kits are too hot? Overheated kits may spread out instead of huddling together. They may appear red or flushed. They may pant or breathe rapidly. If the nest box is too hot, remove some bedding and improve airflow around the box. Make sure the nest box is not in direct sunlight. ### When should I put the nest box in the cage? Place the nest box in the doe's cage on day 26 or 27 of gestation. This gives the doe time to investigate and arrange the box before kindling. Rabbit pregnancies last about 31 days, so the box is in place several days before the kits arrive. ### How often should I check the kits? Check the kits once daily during the first week. More frequent checks disturb the nest and let warm air escape. When you do check, work quickly and return the kits to the nest promptly. After the first week, you can check less frequently as the kits grow and develop fur. ### What should I do if the doe does not pull fur? If the doe has not pulled fur by the time she kindles, you can gently pull fur from her belly and place it over the kits. If the doe resists, use soft, clean cloth or cotton batting as a substitute. The fur or substitute material is essential for keeping the kits warm. ### Can I use a heat lamp to warm the nest box? Yes, but use it safely. Hang the lamp at least 18 inches above the nest box. Use a 100 watt bulb or lower with a ceramic socket and bulb guard. Never place the lamp where the doe can reach it or where it can fall into the nest. Check the temperature regularly to prevent overheating. ### What do I do if I find chilled kits? Warm chilled kits gradually. Hold them against your body for 10 to 15 minutes, or place them on a warm water bottle wrapped in a towel. Never place chilled kits directly under a heat lamp or in hot water. Once the kits are warm and active, return them to the nest box. ## Related Farming Guides This section will be populated with links to related [rabbit farming](/knowledge/animal-farming/rabbits/rabbit-farming-housing-feeding-breeding-welfare-and-health-observation) guides and resources. Check back soon for more practical information on raising healthy, productive rabbits. ## Related Clinical & Scientific Guides * [Rabbit Housing for Meat Production: Efficient and Humane Systems](/knowledge/animal-farming/rabbits/rabbit-housing-meat-production-efficient-humane) * [Raising Meat Rabbits From Weaning to Processing Weight](/knowledge/animal-farming/rabbits/raising-meat-rabbits-from-weaning-to-processing-weight) * [Rabbit Cage Sizing and Space Requirements by Breed and Stage](/knowledge/animal-farming/rabbits/rabbit-cage-sizing-space-requirements-breed-stage) ## References - FAO [Rabbit Production](/knowledge/animal-farming/rabbits/rabbit-welfare-and-enrichment-meeting-behavioral-needs-in-production-systems): https://www.fao.org/animal-production/en/ - USDA APHIS Rabbit Health: https://www.aphis.usda.gov/livestock-poultry-disease - FAO Animal Production and Health: https://www.fao.org/animal-production/en/ - WOAH (World Organisation for Animal Health): https://www.woah.org/en/home/ > This article is educational and is not a substitute for veterinary diagnosis, treatment, public-health guidance, or regulatory reporting.