# Rabbit Feed Ingredients: Safe and Nutritious Options ## Key Takeaways - **Fiber is paramount, comprising 70-80% of an adult rabbit's diet, primarily from grass hays (timothy, orchard, brome) to ensure proper hindgut fermentation and prevent digestive stasis.** Alfalfa hay, while higher in protein and calcium, is best reserved for specific life stages like growth or lactation due to potential urinary tract issues in adults. - **Safe grains (oats, barley, wheat) should be limited to 10-15% of the adult diet to provide energy without causing obesity or digestive upset; corn should be fed sparingly (max 5%) due to its high starch and fat content.** Whole grains are preferred for dental wear, while rolled or crimped grains are suitable for young or older rabbits. - **Protein requirements vary by life stage, from 16-18% for kits to 12-14% for adults, with soybean meal and legume hays being key sources.** Overfeeding protein can lead to kidney problems and bladder stones, while deficiency manifests as poor growth and coat quality. - **Water is a critical nutrient, and its constant availability is essential for preventing dehydration, which can lead to poor appetite and kidney dysfunction.** Cleanliness of water sources must be maintained to prevent pathogen transmission. - **Digestive physiology dictates a gradual introduction of new feeds over 7-10 days to allow cecal microbial adaptation, preventing potentially fatal enteritis.** Rabbits are hindgut fermenters and practice coprophagy, making their digestive systems highly sensitive to abrupt dietary changes. - **Regular monitoring of body condition and fecal output (round, firm pellets) is crucial for early detection of nutritional imbalances or gastrointestinal issues.** Changes in fecal consistency or volume can signal impending health crises like gastrointestinal stasis. --- Feeding rabbits correctly is the single most important factor in their health, growth, and productivity. This guide covers the full range of rabbit feed ingredients, from safe grains and forages to protein sources and additives. It is written for small-scale farmers, homesteaders, and new rabbit raisers who need practical, actionable information on building a balanced ration. We will cover which ingredients are safe, which are toxic, how to combine them, and how to monitor your rabbits for signs of nutritional problems. ## At a Glance - **Fiber is the foundation.** Good quality grass hay, such as timothy, orchard grass, or brome, should make up at least 70 to 80 percent of an adult rabbit's diet. Alfalfa hay is higher in protein and calcium and is best reserved for growing kits, pregnant or lactating does, and underweight rabbits. - **Safe grains for rabbits** include oats, barley, wheat, and certain corn products. These provide energy but should be limited to no more than 10 to 15 percent of the total diet for adult rabbits. Too much grain causes obesity and digestive upset. - **Protein sources** include soybean meal, sunflower seeds (without the hull), and dried peas. Legume hays like alfalfa also supply protein. The protein level needed depends on the rabbit's life stage. - **Fresh vegetables** are optional but beneficial. Safe options include leafy greens like romaine lettuce, carrot tops, and dandelion greens. Avoid iceberg lettuce, potatoes, and rhubarb. - **Water is a critical nutrient.** Clean, fresh water must be available at all times. Dehydration is a common cause of poor appetite and kidney problems. - **Avoid toxic plants** such as avocado, chocolate, onions, garlic, and any plant from the nightshade family. Never feed lawn clippings from treated grass. - **Introduce new feeds gradually** over 7 to 10 days to prevent digestive upset. - **Monitor body condition and fecal output** weekly. Changes in feces are an early warning sign of dietary problems. ## Understanding Rabbit Digestive Physiology Before selecting feed ingredients, you need to understand how a rabbit's digestive system works. Rabbits are hindgut fermenters. This means the majority of fiber digestion happens in the cecum, a large pouch at the beginning of the large intestine. The cecum hosts a complex population of bacteria and protozoa that break down fiber into volatile fatty acids, which the rabbit absorbs for energy. Rabbits practice coprophagy, which means they eat a special type of feces called cecotropes. These are soft, dark, often clustered pellets produced in the cecum and passed at night. The rabbit eats these directly from the anus to get a second pass of nutrients, especially B vitamins and microbial protein. This process means that the rabbit's digestive system is extremely sensitive to sudden changes in diet. A sudden switch in feed ingredients can disrupt the cecal microbial population, leading to diarrhea, gas, and a potentially fatal condition called enteritis. The rabbit's digestive tract is also designed for a continuous flow of fibrous material. The teeth grow continuously throughout the rabbit's life. Chewing on fibrous feed like hay helps wear the teeth down. A diet that is too soft, such as one based primarily on commercial pellets, can lead to dental problems including overgrown molars and incisors. These dental issues are painful and can prevent the rabbit from eating normally. Fiber is classified into two types for rabbits. Digestible fiber is broken down in the cecum and provides energy. Indigestible fiber, mainly lignin and some cellulose, passes through the tract and provides the bulk that keeps the gut moving. A rabbit needs both types. The National Research Council guidelines for rabbits recommend a minimum of 14 percent crude fiber in the total diet, but most rabbit farmers find that 18 to 25 percent fiber is necessary for good gut health. The key is that the fiber must come from plant sources, primarily hay and grasses. ## Safe Grains for Rabbits Grains are energy-dense feeds that provide carbohydrates. They are not a natural staple for rabbits, which eat mostly grasses and leafy plants in the wild. However, grains can be a useful part of a feeding program, especially for growing rabbits, lactating does, and rabbits that need to gain weight. The key is to choose the right grains and feed them in the right amounts. **Oats are the safest grain for rabbits.** Whole oats have a high fiber content compared to other grains, around 10 to 11 percent crude fiber. They are also lower in energy than corn or wheat. This makes them the least likely to cause digestive upset. Rolled or crimped oats are easier for rabbits to chew than whole oats, especially for young rabbits. Oats are a good choice for a maintenance diet and can be fed at up to 15 percent of the total ration for adult rabbits. **Barley is another safe option.** Whole or rolled barley has a fiber content of about 5 to 6 percent, which is lower than oats. It is more energy-dense than oats, so it should be fed in smaller amounts. Barley is a good choice for rabbits that need to gain weight, such as thin does or rabbits being prepared for market. Feed barley at no more than 10 percent of the total diet. **Wheat is safe in limited quantities.** Whole wheat kernels are very palatable to rabbits. The fiber content is about 2 to 3 percent, which is quite low. Wheat provides quick energy but can contribute to obesity if overfed. Limit wheat to 5 to 10 percent of the total ration. Never feed wheat that has sprouted or is moldy, as it can cause digestive problems. **Corn is the most problematic grain.** Whole or cracked corn is high in starch and low in fiber. It is also high in fat. Corn can be fed in very small amounts, no more than 5 percent of the total diet, and only to rabbits that are being conditioned for show or market. Corn is often implicated in cases of enteritis and obesity in rabbits. If you choose to feed corn, use cracked corn rather than whole kernels, as it is easier to digest. Never feed moldy corn, as the mycotoxins can be lethal. **Other grains** such as rye, millet, and triticale are occasionally used in rabbit rations. These are generally safe but offer no advantage over oats, barley, or wheat. Rye can be infected with ergot, a fungus that is toxic to rabbits. If you feed rye, source it from a reputable supplier and inspect it carefully. **Grains to avoid entirely** include any grain that has been treated with pesticides or fungicides, any grain that is moldy or musty, and any grain that has been stored improperly. Never feed grain that has been on the ground or exposed to rodent droppings. Rodent urine can carry leptospirosis, which is dangerous to rabbits and humans. **Processing grains for rabbits.** Whole grains are preferable to processed grains for adult rabbits because they require more chewing, which helps wear down the teeth. However, very young rabbits, older rabbits, or rabbits with dental problems may need rolled or crimped grains. Never feed finely ground grain, as it can form a paste in the rabbit's mouth and cause choking. If you are mixing your own grain ration, a good starting point is 70 percent whole oats, 20 percent rolled barley, and 10 percent cracked wheat. This mix provides a balance of fiber and energy. ## Rabbit Forage Options Forage is the foundation of a healthy [rabbit diet](/knowledge/veterinary-medicine/small-mammal-care/rabbit-diet). Forage includes fresh or dried grasses, legumes, and other leafy plants. In the wild, rabbits eat a wide variety of plants, and this diversity is good for their digestive health. On a farm, you can provide this diversity by offering different types of hay and fresh greens. **Grass hays are the primary forage for adult rabbits.** Timothy hay is the gold standard. It has a good balance of fiber and protein, around 8 to 10 percent protein and 30 to 35 percent fiber. Timothy hay is widely available and well accepted by most rabbits. Orchard grass hay is similar in nutritional value and is often preferred by rabbits that are picky eaters. Brome hay and meadow hay are also good choices. The key is that the hay is cut at the right stage of maturity. Hay cut early in the growing season is more nutritious and palatable. Hay cut late is stemmier and higher in fiber, which is fine for adult rabbits but not ideal for growing kits. **Legume hays are higher in protein and calcium.** Alfalfa hay is the most common legume hay fed to rabbits. It has about 15 to 17 percent protein and is very palatable. However, alfalfa is also high in calcium, which can cause bladder stones and urinary tract problems in adult rabbits. Alfalfa is best reserved for growing kits up to 6 months of age, pregnant and lactating does, and rabbits that are underweight. Clover hay is similar to alfalfa but is less commonly available. Never feed moldy legume hay, as the dust can cause respiratory problems. **Fresh grasses are an excellent summer forage.** If you have pasture, you can allow rabbits to graze on fresh grass, or you can cut grass and bring it to them. Fresh grass is highly nutritious and well accepted. However, you must be careful about the source. Never feed grass that has been treated with herbicides or pesticides. Never feed grass clippings from a lawn mower, as the [fermentation process](/knowledge/molecular-biology/fermentation-process) can cause digestive upset. Grass should be cut and offered fresh, not left to wilt and heat. **Weeds and wild plants are valuable forage.** Many common weeds are highly nutritious for rabbits. Dandelion leaves and flowers are a favorite. Plantain, chickweed, and clover are also good options. You can gather these from your property, but make sure they have not been sprayed. Avoid any plant that you cannot identify with certainty. Some wild plants are toxic to rabbits, including buttercups, foxglove, and hemlock. **Tree leaves and branches are a natural part of a rabbit's diet.** Rabbits in the wild eat bark, twigs, and leaves from many trees. You can offer branches from apple, willow, aspen, and birch trees. These provide both nutrition and a way for rabbits to wear down their teeth. Avoid branches from cherry, plum, peach, and apricot trees, as the wilted leaves contain cyanide compounds. Also avoid branches from evergreen trees, which contain volatile oils that can be toxic. **Fresh vegetables are a supplement, not a staple.** Safe vegetables include romaine lettuce, leaf lettuce, carrot tops, celery leaves, bell peppers, and broccoli leaves. Dark leafy greens like kale and spinach are safe in small amounts but should not be the primary green because they are high in oxalates, which can contribute to bladder stones. Avoid iceberg lettuce, which has almost no nutritional value and can cause diarrhea. Avoid potatoes, rhubarb, and onions, which are toxic to rabbits. **How much forage should a rabbit eat?** An adult rabbit should eat a pile of hay about the size of its body every day. This sounds like a lot, but rabbits are efficient eaters and will consume most of it. The rest is used for bedding and nesting. If a rabbit is not eating its hay, there is a problem. Check the quality of the hay. Hay that is dusty, moldy, or has been stored improperly will be refused. Also check the rabbit's teeth. Overgrown teeth are a common reason for hay refusal. ## Protein Sources for Rabbits Protein is essential for growth, reproduction, and milk production. The protein requirement for rabbits varies by life stage. Growing kits need 16 to 18 percent protein in their diet. Lactating does need 17 to 19 percent. Adult rabbits at maintenance need only 12 to 14 percent. Overfeeding protein to adult rabbits can cause kidney problems and can make the urine more alkaline, which contributes to bladder stones. **Soybean meal is the most concentrated protein source.** It has about 44 to 48 percent protein and is highly digestible. Soybean meal is commonly used in commercial rabbit pellets. If you are mixing your own feed, you can add soybean meal at a rate of 5 to 10 percent of the total ration for growing rabbits. Soybean meal is not palatable on its own, so it must be mixed with other ingredients. Never feed raw soybeans, as they contain trypsin inhibitors that interfere with protein digestion. **Sunflower seeds are a good protein and fat source.** Black oil sunflower seeds have about 17 percent protein and a high fat content. They are very palatable to rabbits. The seeds should be offered without the hull, as the hulls are sharp and can cause mouth injuries. Sunflower seeds are best used as a supplement for thin rabbits or as a treat. Feed no more than a teaspoon per rabbit per day. The high fat content can cause obesity if overfed. **Dried peas and beans are alternative protein sources.** Field peas, also called split peas, have about 24 percent protein. They are palatable and can be fed whole or split. Dried beans, such as navy beans or pinto beans, must be cooked before feeding, as raw beans contain toxins. Never feed uncooked beans to rabbits. Peas can be fed at up to 10 percent of the total ration. **Legume hays provide protein in a forage form.** As mentioned earlier, alfalfa hay has 15 to 17 percent protein. Clover hay is similar. Feeding legume hay is the simplest way to increase protein in the diet without using concentrated supplements. However, the calcium content of legume hays must be considered, especially for adult rabbits. **Other protein sources** include flaxseed meal, canola meal, and cottonseed meal. These are byproducts of oil extraction and are commonly used in livestock feed. Flaxseed meal has about 34 percent protein and is a good source of omega-3 fatty acids. Canola meal has about 36 percent protein. Cottonseed meal has about 41 percent protein but contains gossypol, a toxin that can affect rabbits if fed in large amounts. Limit cottonseed meal to 5 percent of the ration. These meals are not commonly available in small quantities, so they are used primarily in commercial feed manufacturing. **Protein deficiency signs** include poor growth, rough coat, weight loss, and reduced milk production in does. If you see these signs, check the protein content of your feed. A simple way to estimate protein is to look at the ingredients. If the feed is mostly hay and grains, it is likely low in protein. Adding a protein supplement like soybean meal or sunflower seeds will correct the problem. **Protein excess signs** include obesity, kidney problems, and an increased incidence of bladder stones. If your rabbits are gaining too much weight or showing signs of urinary problems, reduce the protein in the diet. This usually means reducing or eliminating alfalfa hay and concentrated protein supplements. ## Rabbit Feed Additives Feed additives are substances added to the diet to improve health, digestion, or performance. Some additives are essential, while others are optional. The most important additives are salt and minerals. Other additives, such as probiotics and herbal supplements, are less critical but can be useful in certain situations. **Salt is an essential additive.** Rabbits need sodium and chloride for nerve function and fluid balance. Salt is usually added to commercial pellets at a rate of 0.5 percent of the ration. If you are mixing your own feed, add salt at a rate of 5 pounds per ton of feed, which is about 0.25 percent. You can also provide a salt block, but rabbits do not always use salt blocks reliably. It is better to mix salt into the feed. **Calcium and phosphorus are critical minerals.** The ratio of calcium to phosphorus in the diet should be about 2 to 1. Alfalfa hay is high in calcium, while grains are higher in phosphorus. A diet based on grass hay and grains may be low in calcium. You can correct this by adding a calcium supplement such as limestone or dicalcium phosphate. However, too much calcium causes bladder stones. If you are feeding a commercial pellet, the minerals are already balanced, and you should not add extra calcium. **Vitamins are generally not needed if the diet is varied.** Rabbits synthesize B vitamins in the cecum and obtain vitamin C from fresh greens. Vitamin A is found in green leafy plants and carrots. Vitamin D is synthesized in the skin in response to sunlight. Rabbits kept indoors may need a vitamin D supplement, but outdoor rabbits usually get enough. If you are feeding a commercial pellet, vitamins are already included. If you are mixing your own feed, you can add a vitamin premix designed for rabbits or livestock. **Probiotics are beneficial bacteria that support gut health.** They are useful when a rabbit has been on antibiotics, has had diarrhea, or has been through a stressful event like shipping or weaning. Probiotics are available as powders or gels that can be added to the feed or water. The most common probiotic strains for rabbits are Lactobacillus and Bifidobacterium species. Probiotics are not a substitute for good feeding practices, but they can help restore the gut flora after disruption. **Apple cider vinegar is a popular additive.** Some rabbit farmers add a small amount of apple cider vinegar to the drinking water, about 1 tablespoon per gallon. The claimed benefits include improved digestion, a shinier coat, and reduced urine odor. There is limited scientific evidence for these claims, but many farmers report positive results. Apple cider vinegar is safe in small amounts, but it should not be used as a substitute for clean water. If the water tastes too acidic, rabbits may drink less, which can cause dehydration. **Herbal supplements are sometimes added to rabbit feed.** Common herbs include chamomile for calming, peppermint for digestion, and garlic as a natural dewormer. There is little scientific evidence for these uses. Garlic is toxic to rabbits in large amounts and should not be fed. If you want to use herbs, offer them fresh as part of the forage mix. Dried herbs can be added to the feed in very small amounts, but they should not make up more than 1 percent of the ration. **Avoid unnecessary additives.** Many commercial products claim to improve rabbit health but are not backed by evidence. These include enzyme supplements, chelated minerals, and growth promoters. A well-balanced diet based on good hay, limited grain, and a small amount of fresh greens provides everything a rabbit needs. Adding unnecessary supplements wastes money and can cause imbalances. **Medicated feed should be used with caution.** Some commercial rabbit feeds contain coccidiostats, which are medications that prevent coccidiosis, a common parasitic disease. These feeds are useful in operations with a history of coccidiosis. However, medicated feed should not be used continuously, as the parasites can develop resistance. If you use medicated feed, follow the label instructions carefully. Never use medicated feed intended for other species, such as chickens, as the medication levels may be toxic to rabbits. ## Building a Balanced Ration A balanced ration provides the right amounts of energy, protein, fiber, minerals, and vitamins for the rabbit's life stage. There are two approaches to feeding rabbits: using a commercial pellet plus hay, or mixing your own feed. Each approach has advantages and disadvantages. **Commercial pellets plus hay is the simplest approach.** A good quality rabbit pellet is nutritionally complete, meaning it contains all the essential nutrients in the right proportions. You feed a measured amount of pellets each day, usually about 1/4 cup per 5 pounds of body weight for an adult rabbit, and provide unlimited hay. This approach is convenient and reduces the risk of nutritional deficiencies. The main disadvantage is cost. Commercial pellets are more expensive than mixing your own feed. **Mixing your own feed gives you more control.** You can adjust the ingredients to match the needs of your rabbits and use locally available feeds. The main disadvantage is the risk of errors. It is easy to make a mistake in the proportions, leading to a deficiency or excess. If you mix your own feed, start with a proven recipe and keep careful records. **A basic maintenance ration for adult rabbits** can be made from 70 percent grass hay, 20 percent whole oats, and 10 percent a protein source such as soybean meal or sunflower seeds. This ration provides about 13 to 14 percent protein and adequate fiber. Add salt at 0.5 percent of the total ration. Offer fresh greens daily as a supplement. **A growing ration for kits** needs more protein and energy. A basic growing ration is 60 percent alfalfa hay, 25 percent whole oats, and 15 percent soybean meal. This ration provides about 17 to 18 percent protein. Feed this ration free choice to kits from weaning to 6 months of age. After 6 months, switch to the maintenance ration. **A lactating ration for does** has the highest nutritional demands. A basic lactating ration is 60 percent alfalfa hay, 20 percent whole oats, and 20 percent soybean meal. This ration provides about 19 percent protein. The doe should also have unlimited access to fresh water, as milk production requires large amounts of water. **Weigh your feed ingredients.** When mixing your own feed, use a scale rather than measuring cups. A cup of oats weighs differently than a cup of soybean meal. Weighing ensures accuracy and consistency. Mix small batches of feed at a time, no more than a two week supply, to keep the feed fresh. Store the feed in a clean, dry container with a tight lid to prevent pests and moisture. **Transition to a new feed gradually.** When you change any component of the diet, do it over 7 to 10 days. Start by replacing 10 percent of the old feed with the new feed. Each day, increase the proportion of new feed and decrease the old. This gradual transition allows the cecal bacteria to adapt. A sudden change can cause diarrhea, gas, and a potentially fatal condition called gastrointestinal stasis. ## Common Feeding Mistakes Many rabbit health problems are caused by feeding mistakes. Understanding these mistakes can help you avoid them. **Overfeeding grains is the most common mistake.** Rabbits love grains, and they will eat them to excess if given the chance. Grains are energy-dense and low in fiber. Too much grain causes obesity, diarrhea, and enteritis. Limit grains to no more than 15 percent of the total diet for adult rabbits. If you see soft feces or diarrhea, reduce the grain immediately. **Underfeeding hay is the second most common mistake.** Some farmers think that commercial pellets are enough. This is wrong. Pellets do not provide the long fiber that rabbits need for gut health and tooth wear. Hay must be available at all times. If a rabbit is not eating hay, check the quality and the rabbit's teeth. **Feeding too many treats is a common problem.** Carrots, apples, and bananas are high in sugar. While rabbits enjoy them, too much sugar disrupts the cecal bacteria and causes diarrhea. Treats should make up no more than 5 percent of the diet, about 1 to 2 tablespoons per day for an adult rabbit. **Feeding toxic plants is an occasional but serious mistake.** Common toxic plants include avocado, chocolate, onions, garlic, potatoes, rhubarb, and tomato leaves. Some ornamental plants are also toxic, including lilies, azaleas, and rhododendrons. If you are unsure whether a plant is safe, do not feed it. When gathering wild plants, identify them positively before offering them to your rabbits. **Feeding moldy or spoiled feed is dangerous.** Mold can produce mycotoxins that damage the liver and kidneys. Never feed hay that is moldy, musty, or dusty. Never feed grain that is moldy or has an off odor. Check feed regularly for signs of spoilage. **Ignoring water quality is a common oversight.** Rabbits need clean, fresh water at all times. Water bowls and bottles must be cleaned regularly. In hot weather, check water twice a day. In freezing weather, use heated water bottles or check frequently. Dehydration is a common cause of poor appetite and kidney problems. **Feeding lawn clippings is a dangerous practice.** Lawn clippings ferment quickly and cause bloat and diarrhea. Never feed grass clippings from a lawn mower. If you want to feed fresh grass, cut it with scissors or a scythe and offer it immediately. ## Monitoring Rabbit Health and Nutrition Regular monitoring is essential to catch nutritional problems early. A healthy rabbit is alert, active, and has a good appetite. The coat is shiny and smooth. The eyes are bright and clear. The nose is clean. The feces are round, firm, and dry. **Check body condition weekly.** You should be able to feel the rabbit's ribs easily but not see them. If the ribs are prominent and sharp, the rabbit is too thin. If you cannot feel the ribs through a layer of fat, the rabbit is overweight. Adjust the feed accordingly. **Check fecal output daily.** A healthy adult rabbit produces 200 to 300 fecal pellets per day. The pellets should be round, firm, and dry. If the pellets are soft, small, or misshapen, there is a digestive problem. If the rabbit is producing fewer pellets than normal, it may be developing gastrointestinal stasis, which is a medical emergency. **Check the water intake.** A healthy adult rabbit drinks about 10 percent of its body weight in water each day. A 5 pound rabbit drinks about 8 ounces of water daily. If water intake decreases, check for dental problems, kidney disease, or a blocked water bottle. **Monitor weight gain in growing kits.** Weigh kits weekly from birth to 6 months. A healthy kit gains about 30 to 40 grams per day. If weight gain slows or stops, check the protein content of the feed and look for signs of disease. **Watch for signs of nutritional deficiency.** A rough coat, flaky skin, and poor growth indicate a protein or vitamin deficiency. Soft or deformed bones indicate a calcium or vitamin D deficiency. Bleeding gums or slow wound healing indicate a vitamin C deficiency, which is rare in rabbits but can occur if the diet is extremely poor. **Watch for signs of nutritional excess.** Obesity is the most common sign. A rabbit that is overweight is at risk for heart disease, liver disease, and foot sores. Bladder stones are another sign of excess, particularly excess calcium. Signs of bladder stones include blood in the urine, straining to urinate, and a hunched posture. **Keep feeding records.** Record the types and amounts of feed offered each day. Record any changes in the diet and the reason for the change. Record the body weight and body condition score of each rabbit weekly. These records will help you identify problems early and make informed decisions about feed changes. ## When to Call a Veterinarian or Extension Agent Most feeding problems can be corrected by adjusting the diet. However, some situations require professional help. Call a veterinarian if you see any of the following signs. **Loss of appetite for more than 24 hours.** Rabbits cannot survive long without food. If a rabbit stops eating, it can develop hepatic lipidosis, a dangerous condition where fat accumulates in the liver. Loss of appetite is a medical emergency. **No fecal output for more than 12 hours.** This is a sign of gastrointestinal stasis, which is often fatal if not treated promptly. Do not wait to see if the rabbit improves. Call a veterinarian immediately. **Diarrhea lasting more than 24 hours.** Diarrhea can quickly dehydrate a rabbit. It is especially dangerous in young kits. If diarrhea persists, call a veterinarian. **Blood in the urine.** This can indicate bladder stones, urinary tract infection, or other serious conditions. Call a veterinarian for an evaluation. **Visible weight loss despite a good appetite.** This can indicate parasites, dental problems, or a chronic disease. A veterinarian can help diagnose the cause. **Difficulty eating or drooling.** This often indicates dental problems. Overgrown molars can cause painful mouth ulcers. A veterinarian can trim or file the teeth. **Sudden death of multiple rabbits.** This can indicate a contagious disease or a toxic feed problem. Contact your veterinarian and your state veterinary diagnostic laboratory immediately. **Extension agents can help with feed formulation and management.** Your local cooperative extension office can provide information on locally available feed ingredients, feed prices, and nutritional analysis. They can also help you connect with a veterinarian who specializes in rabbits. ## Frequently Asked Questions **How much should I feed my rabbit each day?** An adult rabbit should have unlimited access to grass hay. In addition, feed a measured amount of commercial pellets or a grain mix, about 1/4 cup per 5 pounds of body weight per day. Offer fresh greens daily, about 1 to 2 cups per 5 pounds of body weight. Adjust the amounts based on body condition. If the rabbit is gaining too much weight, reduce the pellets or grain. If the rabbit is losing weight, increase the pellets or grain. **Can I feed my rabbit only pellets and no hay?** No. Pellets do not provide enough long fiber for good gut health and tooth wear. Rabbits that eat only pellets are at high risk for dental disease, obesity, and gastrointestinal stasis. Hay must be available at all times. Even a high quality pellet cannot replace hay. **Is alfalfa hay safe for adult rabbits?** Alfalfa hay is safe for adult rabbits, but it should be limited. Alfalfa is high in protein and calcium. Adult rabbits at maintenance need only 12 to 14 percent protein and moderate calcium. Too much calcium can cause bladder stones. If you feed alfalfa, mix it with grass hay so that alfalfa is no more than 25 percent of the total hay. Reserve pure alfalfa for growing kits, pregnant and lactating does, and underweight rabbits. **Can I feed my rabbits kitchen scraps?** Some kitchen scraps are safe, but many are not. Safe scraps include carrot peels, apple cores (without seeds), outer leaves of lettuce and cabbage, and bell pepper cores. Unsafe scraps include potato peels, onion skins, garlic, avocado, and anything moldy or spoiled. Never feed meat, dairy, or processed foods. Kitchen scraps should make up no more than 10 percent of the total diet. **What should I do if my rabbit has diarrhea?** First, remove all grains and treats from the diet. Offer only grass hay and fresh water. This gives the digestive system a chance to settle. If the diarrhea persists for more than 24 hours, or if the rabbit shows signs of dehydration such as lethargy or sunken eyes, call a veterinarian. Diarrhea in young kits can be fatal within 48 hours. **Can rabbits eat grass from my lawn?** Yes, but with precautions. The grass must be free of herbicides, pesticides, and fertilizers. Do not feed grass clippings from a lawn mower. Cut the grass with scissors or a scythe and offer it fresh. Introduce fresh grass gradually, starting with small amounts, to allow the gut bacteria to adapt. Never feed grass that has been wet for a long time, as it may be moldy. **What grains should I avoid feeding rabbits?** Avoid corn in large amounts, as it is high in starch and low in fiber. Avoid any grain that is moldy, musty, or has been treated with pesticides. Avoid rye that may be infected with ergot. Never feed grain that has been on the ground or exposed to rodents. **Do rabbits need mineral supplements?** Rabbits need salt and minerals, but most are provided by a balanced diet. If you feed a commercial pellet, minerals are already included. If you mix your own feed, add salt at 0.5 percent of the ration. Provide a calcium source if the diet is based on grass hay and grains. Avoid adding extra minerals to a commercial pellet, as this can cause imbalances. ## Related Farming Guides This section will be populated with links to related farming guides on [rabbit care](/knowledge/veterinary-medicine/exotic-small-animals/rabbit-care-dental-malocclusion-and-incisor-trimming-procedure), feeding programs, and health management. Additional guides on raising other livestock species are also available. ## Related Clinical & Scientific Guides * [Rabbit Housing for Meat Production: Efficient and Humane Systems](/knowledge/animal-farming/rabbits/rabbit-housing-meat-production-efficient-humane) * [Raising Meat Rabbits From Weaning to Processing Weight](/knowledge/animal-farming/rabbits/raising-meat-rabbits-from-weaning-to-processing-weight) * [Rabbit Cage Sizing and Space Requirements by Breed and Stage](/knowledge/animal-farming/rabbits/rabbit-cage-sizing-space-requirements-breed-stage) ## References - FAO [Rabbit Production](/knowledge/animal-farming/rabbits/rabbit-welfare-and-enrichment-meeting-behavioral-needs-in-production-systems): https://www.fao.org/animal-production/en/ - USDA APHIS Rabbit Health: https://www.aphis.usda.gov/livestock-poultry-disease - FAO Animal Production and Health: https://www.fao.org/animal-production/en/ - WOAH (World Organisation for Animal Health): https://www.woah.org/en/home/ > This article is educational and is not a substitute for veterinary diagnosis, treatment, public-health guidance, or regulatory reporting.