# Choosing the Right Flooring for Rabbit Hutches ## Key Takeaways - Rabbit feet lack thick plantar pads, making them susceptible to pododermatitis (sore hocks) due to prolonged pressure, abrasion, and moisture from urine and ammonia. - 14 gauge galvanized wire with 1/2 by 1 inch mesh is the commercial standard for adult rabbits, offering excellent drainage, but requires a solid resting mat to mitigate pressure points and prevent sore hocks. - Solid wood floors are strongly discouraged due to urine absorption and ammonia retention; solid plastic slatted flooring offers better drainage and hygiene than solid wood or flat plastic, while still providing a more comfortable surface than wire. - Prevention of sore hocks involves a multi-faceted approach: providing a resting mat, maintaining dryness, ensuring proper wire gauge and mesh size, managing rabbit weight, and selecting breeding stock with adequate foot fur. - Hybrid flooring systems, such as wire with resting mats or slatted plastic inserts on wire, are often optimal, balancing sanitation benefits with animal comfort and welfare. --- Raising rabbits for meat, fiber, show, or companionship starts with the environment you provide, and the floor beneath their feet is the single most important surface in that environment. This guide compares wire floors, solid floors, plastic slats, and hybrid systems so you can choose the best floor for rabbits in your specific setup. It covers the causes of pododermatitis, how to prevent sore hocks, cleaning protocols, and the practical trade-offs between drainage and comfort. Whether you keep a small backyard herd or manage a commercial rabbitry, this article gives you the decision framework, installation steps, and monitoring routines you need to protect your animals and simplify your daily chores. ## At a Glance | Floor Type | Drainage | Cleaning Ease | Risk of Sore Hocks | Best For | |---|---|---|---|---| | 14 gauge galvanized wire, 1/2 by 1 inch | Excellent | Excellent | Moderate if wire quality is poor | Commercial and large meat herds | | 16 gauge wire with plastic-coated resting mat | Good | Good | Low when mat is used | Grow-out pens and breeding does | | Solid plastic slatted flooring | Good | Good | Low | Small to medium rabbitries | | Solid wood or plywood | Poor | Poor | High unless deeply bedded | Temporary or indoor only | | Solid metal or plastic pan with bedding | Poor to moderate | Moderate | Low to moderate when kept dry | Indoor pets and small herds | The best overall choice for most rabbitries is a 14 gauge galvanized wire floor with 1/2 by 1 inch mesh, paired with a solid plastic resting mat in each cage. This combination gives you the drainage and sanitation of wire while giving rabbits a place to escape the wire when they need relief. --- ## Understanding Rabbit Feet and Why Flooring Matters Rabbit feet are not built like dog [or cat](/knowledge/veterinary-medicine/preventive-care/or-cat-logical-health) [paws](/knowledge/veterinary-medicine/clinical-methods/paws). They have no thick pads of connective tissue on the underside. Instead, the hock and the underside of the foot are covered by a thin layer of skin stretched over bone, tendon, and the small metatarsal bones. This makes the feet vulnerable to pressure, abrasion, and moisture damage. The medical term for the most common flooring-related injury is pododermatitis, which means inflammation of the skin on the foot. In rabbits, this condition is commonly called sore hocks because the hock joint, the area that takes the most weight when a rabbit sits, is usually the first place to show damage. Sore hocks develop through a combination of factors. The primary cause is prolonged pressure on the same spot of the foot. When a rabbit sits on a hard surface, the weight of its body pushes the thin skin against the bone underneath. Over time, this pressure reduces blood flow to that area. The skin becomes irritated, then inflamed, then broken. Once the skin is broken, bacteria from the environment can enter and cause infection. The secondary cause is moisture and ammonia. Rabbit urine contains urea, which breaks down into ammonia. When urine sits on a solid floor or soaks into bedding, the ammonia fumes irritate the rabbit's respiratory tract, and the moisture softens the skin on the feet. Softened skin is more easily abraded and more susceptible to bacterial invasion. The third cause is poor wire quality. Wire that is too thin, has sharp edges from manufacturing, or has corroded over time can cut into the foot with every small movement. A rabbit sitting on rusted or broken wire is at high risk of developing sores even if the rest of the environment is clean. The fourth cause is genetics and body condition. Heavy breeds like Flemish Giants and New Zealand Whites carry more weight per square inch of foot surface. Obese rabbits put extra pressure on their hocks. Rabbits with thin fur on the bottom of their feet, which is a genetic trait in some lines, have less natural cushioning. Understanding these causes is important because the best floor for rabbits is not a single product. It is a system that manages pressure, moisture, and sanitation together. The floor you choose must work with your cleaning schedule, your climate, and the size and breed of your rabbits. --- ## Wire Flooring: The Commercial Standard ### How Wire Floors Work A wire floor is exactly what it sounds like. The rabbit cage has a floor made of welded wire mesh, suspended above a dropping tray or the ground. Urine and feces fall through the mesh into a collection area below. This keeps the rabbit out of its own waste, which is the primary sanitation advantage. Wire floors became the standard in commercial [rabbit production](/knowledge/animal-farming/rabbits/rabbit-welfare-and-enrichment-meeting-behavioral-needs-in-production-systems) because they allow high stocking densities without the labor of daily bedding changes. A wire floor can stay clean for a week or more if the dropping tray is managed properly, whereas a solid floor with bedding needs attention every day or two. ### Wire Gauge and Mesh Size The two specifications that matter for wire flooring are the gauge of the wire and the size of the mesh openings. Wire gauge refers to the thickness of the wire itself. Lower gauge numbers mean thicker wire. For rabbit flooring, 14 gauge is the standard for adult rabbits. It is thick enough to resist bending and sagging under the weight of a large rabbit. It also has a slightly larger surface area where it contacts the rabbit's foot, which distributes pressure better than thinner wire. Sixteen gauge wire is lighter and cheaper, but it is more likely to sag, especially under heavy breeds. Sagging wire creates uneven surfaces and gaps where feet can slip through. Sixteen gauge is acceptable for young rabbits and small breeds, but it is not the best floor for rabbits that weigh more than 8 pounds. Wire thinner than 16 gauge, such as 18 or 19 gauge, should not be used for rabbit flooring. It will deform quickly, create sharp points, and increase the risk of foot injuries. Mesh size refers to the opening between the wires. For adult rabbits, the standard is 1/2 by 1 inch. The 1/2 inch dimension runs across the width of the cage, and the 1 inch dimension runs front to back. This opening is small enough to prevent adult rabbit feet from slipping through, but large enough to allow feces to pass. For baby rabbits and young grow-outs, use 1/2 by 1/2 inch mesh. Their smaller feet can slip through 1 inch openings, which can cause broken toes or trapped legs. Many producers use a nursery cage with smaller mesh for the first 4 to 6 weeks and then move the young rabbits to the larger mesh. ### Galvanization and Corrosion Galvanized wire has a zinc coating that protects the steel from rust. The quality of that coating matters greatly. Electro-galvanized wire has a thin, smooth coating. Hot-dip galvanized wire has a thicker, rougher coating that lasts much longer in a wet environment. In a rabbitry, the wire floor is constantly exposed to urine, which is corrosive. A cheap electro-galvanized floor may start to rust within 6 to 12 months. A good hot-dip galvanized floor can last 10 years or more with proper care. Check the wire for rough spots before you install it. Run your hand over the surface. Any burr, nick, or sharp edge will cause foot damage. If you find rough spots, you can file them down before installation, but it is better to buy quality wire from a supplier that specializes in rabbit equipment. ### The Problem with Wire Only Despite its sanitation advantages, wire flooring has a significant drawback. Rabbits are not naturally adapted to standing on wire. In the wild, they live on grass, soil, and soft vegetation. The constant pressure of wire on the same spot of the foot can cause sore hocks, especially in heavy breeds and older animals. The solution used by most experienced producers is not to abandon wire, but to provide a resting area. A solid plastic mat, about 8 by 10 inches, placed in a corner of the cage gives the rabbit a place to sit that relieves pressure on the hocks. The rabbit will naturally choose the mat for resting and use the wire for elimination. This combination gives you the best of both systems. You can purchase commercial resting mats or make your own from solid plastic cutting boards or polypropylene sheets. The mat should be smooth, without sharp edges, and easy to remove for cleaning. Many producers keep two mats per cage so one can be washed while the other is in use. ### Step-by-Step: Installing a Wire Floor System 1. Measure the interior dimensions of your cage or build frame. The wire floor should sit level and be attached securely to the frame on all sides. 2. Purchase 14 gauge hot-dip galvanized welded wire with 1/2 by 1 inch mesh for adult cages. For nursery cages, use 1/2 by 1/2 inch mesh. 3. Cut the wire to size using wire cutters. Leave a 1/2 inch overlap on each side for attachment. 4. Inspect all cut edges. Fold any protruding wire ends back or file them smooth to prevent foot lacerations. 5. Attach the wire to the frame using J-clips, hog rings, or self-tapping screws. Space the fasteners every 4 to 6 inches along the edges. 6. Check for sagging by pressing down in the center of the floor. If it flexes more than 1/4 inch, add a support brace underneath. 7. Place a solid plastic resting mat in one corner of the cage. The mat should be large enough for the rabbit to sit on with all four feet, but not so large that it covers the entire floor. 8. Install a dropping tray or collection system below the wire. The tray should be at least 2 inches below the wire to prevent the rabbit from reaching it. 9. Test the floor by placing a rabbit in the cage and watching its movement for 10 minutes. Look for any place where the rabbit seems hesitant to step or where its foot could slip through. --- ## Solid Flooring: When It Makes Sense Solid floors are exactly what they sound like. The rabbit lives on a continuous surface made of wood, plastic, metal, or concrete. Solid floors require bedding or frequent cleaning because urine and feces stay on the surface where the rabbit lives. ### Solid Wood Floors Plywood and solid wood floors are common in small backyard hutches, especially those built from scrap materials. They are cheap and easy to construct, but they are the worst choice for rabbit health in most situations. Wood is porous. It absorbs urine and the ammonia that comes from it. Even with bedding, wood floors become saturated over time. Once saturated, they are nearly impossible to fully clean. The ammonia smell becomes permanent, and the damp wood promotes bacterial and fungal growth. The only situation where a wood floor is acceptable is a fully indoor hutch with a deep layer of absorbent bedding that is changed completely every 2 to 3 days. Even then, you must seal the wood with a non-toxic waterproof coating and inspect it regularly for signs of saturation. If you must use wood, use exterior-grade plywood or solid lumber, seal all surfaces and edges with a water-based polyurethane or epoxy coating, and elevate the hutch off the ground to prevent moisture wicking from below. ### Solid Plastic Floors Solid plastic floors are a better option than wood. Plastic does not absorb urine, so it can be washed and disinfected thoroughly. Plastic is also warmer than wire, which is an advantage in cold climates. The drawbacks are drainage and traction. Urine pools on a flat plastic surface unless it is sloped to a drain. Feces are trampled into a mess. Some plastic surfaces are slippery, which can cause rabbits to splay their legs and injure their hips or spines. Slatted plastic flooring solves the drainage problem. These floors are made of plastic planks with small gaps between them, typically 1/4 to 3/8 inch wide. Urine and small feces fall through the gaps, while the rabbit's foot rests on the wider plastic surface. This gives better pressure distribution than wire while maintaining drainage. The best plastic slatted floors are made from high-density polyethylene or polypropylene. These materials are durable, resistant to ammonia, and can be pressure-washed. Avoid cheap plastic trays or grids that are designed for other animals, as they may have gaps that are too wide or edges that are too sharp. ### Concrete Floors Concrete floors are used in larger commercial rabbitries where the entire building has a concrete slab. Rabbits are typically housed in wire cages suspended above the concrete, with the concrete acting as the collection surface. This is a hybrid system that works well. Direct concrete flooring, where rabbits live directly on concrete, is not recommended. Concrete is hard, cold, and abrasive. It also stains and holds bacteria unless it is sealed and cleaned regularly. If you use concrete as a collection surface, slope it to a drain and clean it daily with a hose. ### Bedding Requirements for Solid Floors If you use a solid floor, bedding is not optional. The bedding absorbs urine, provides cushioning, and gives the rabbit something to dig and nest in. The best bedding materials are: - Pine shavings, kiln-dried to reduce aromatic oils - Aspen shavings - Paper-based bedding pellets - Straw over a layer of shavings Do not use cedar shavings. Cedar contains phenols that can cause liver damage and respiratory problems in rabbits. Do not use clay-based [cat litter](/knowledge/veterinary-medicine/clinical-methods/cat-litter), which is dusty and can cause respiratory issues if ingested. The depth of bedding should be at least 2 inches, and it should be spot-cleaned daily. Wet spots should be removed immediately. A full bedding change is needed every 3 to 7 days depending on the number of rabbits and the humidity of your climate. --- ## The Sore Hocks Problem: Prevention and Treatment Sore hocks, or pododermatitis, is the most common flooring-related health problem in rabbits. It is painful, difficult to treat, and can become a chronic condition that forces you to cull otherwise productive animals. ### How to Recognize Sore Hocks The early signs are subtle. The rabbit may be reluctant to move, sit with its weight shifted to one side, or spend more time on its resting mat. You may notice hair loss on the underside of the hock, revealing pink skin. The skin may look red or inflamed. As the condition progresses, the skin becomes cracked and scabbed. The rabbit may develop a visible swelling on the hock. In severe cases, the skin breaks open and you can see the underlying tissue. Infection sets in, and the area becomes moist, smelly, and painful. Sore hocks are graded by severity: - Grade 1: Hair loss and reddened skin, no open wounds - Grade 2: Superficial scabs or abrasions - Grade 3: Deep ulceration or abscess - Grade 4: Infection involving bone or tendon Grades 1 and 2 can often be managed with flooring changes and topical treatment. Grades 3 and 4 require veterinary attention and may require culling if the rabbit does not respond to treatment. ### Prevention Through Flooring The best treatment for sore hocks is prevention, and prevention starts with the floor. First, eliminate pressure points. A resting mat on a wire floor is the single most effective prevention measure. The mat gives the rabbit a place to distribute its weight over a larger area. Provide at least one mat per rabbit, and make sure the mat is large enough for the rabbit to sit on comfortably. Second, keep the floor dry. Moisture softens the skin and makes it vulnerable. On wire floors, this means managing the dropping tray and ensuring good ventilation. On solid floors, this means changing bedding before it becomes saturated. Third, check wire quality regularly. Inspect the floor at least once a month for rust, broken wires, and sharp edges. Replace damaged sections immediately. A single broken wire can cause a deep laceration that leads to a serious infection. Fourth, manage rabbit weight. Overweight rabbits put extra pressure on their hocks. Feed a balanced diet and limit pellets to the recommended amount for your breed and production stage. Fifth, select for foot health. If you breed rabbits, pay attention to the fur density on the underside of the feet. Select breeding stock from lines that have good foot fur and no history of sore hocks. ### Treatment Protocol for Early Sore Hocks If you catch sore hocks at Grade 1 or 2, you can often treat them on the farm. 1. Move the rabbit to a clean cage with a solid plastic floor or a wire floor with a large resting mat. The goal is to remove the source of pressure and moisture. 2. Clean the affected foot gently with a dilute antiseptic solution. Use chlorhexidine or povidone-iodine diluted according to the label instructions. Do not scrub, as this will cause more damage. 3. Pat the foot dry with a clean towel. Do not rub. 4. Apply a topical antibiotic ointment or a wound cream recommended by your veterinarian. Silver sulfadiazine cream is commonly used for rabbit foot wounds. 5. Change the bedding or clean the cage floor daily during treatment. The foot must stay dry. 6. Monitor the foot daily for 7 days. If there is no improvement, or if the wound looks deeper or more swollen, call your veterinarian. ### When to Call a Veterinarian Call your veterinarian immediately if you see any of these signs: - The rabbit is not eating or is showing signs of pain such as grinding its teeth or refusing to move - The wound is deep enough that you can see muscle, tendon, or bone - There is a foul smell coming from the foot, which indicates infection - The rabbit has a fever or seems lethargic - The hock is severely swollen or hot to the touch - The rabbit has had sore hocks before and the current episode is worse than previous ones Veterinary treatment for advanced sore hocks may include systemic antibiotics, pain medication, wound debridement, and bandaging. Recovery can take weeks. In severe cases where the bone is infected, the rabbit may need to be euthanized. --- ## Hybrid Flooring Systems Many experienced rabbit producers do not choose between wire and solid flooring. They combine both to get the benefits of each. These hybrid systems are often the best floor for rabbits in terms of health and management ease. ### Wire with Resting Mats This is the most common hybrid system and the one recommended most often by extension services. The cage floor is wire, which handles drainage and sanitation. One corner of the cage has a solid plastic resting mat, which gives the rabbit a comfortable place to sit. The key is to place the mat in the corner that the rabbit prefers for resting, not near the feeder or waterer. Rabbits tend to eliminate away from their resting area. Observe your rabbits for a day or two and move the mat if needed. The mat should be cleaned daily. Urine and feces that land on the mat will not drain through, so the mat can become soiled quickly. Many producers keep a second mat and swap them out each day, washing the soiled one with a hose and disinfectant. ### Two-Level Cages Some commercial cages have a wire top level and a solid lower level. The rabbit can move between levels. The wire level is for feeding and elimination, while the solid level has a soft mat or bedding for resting. This system works well but takes up more space and is more expensive. It is most commonly used for breeding does with litters, giving the kits a safe resting area away from the wire. ### Slatted Plastic Inserts on Wire You can place slatted plastic inserts directly on top of a wire floor. This gives the rabbit a larger solid surface area while still allowing drainage through the slats. The inserts should be removable for cleaning. This system is a good compromise for rabbits that are showing early signs of sore hocks. It gives them more surface area without requiring a full cage change. However, the inserts can trap feces and urine between the plastic and the wire, so they need to be lifted and cleaned at least every other day. ### Deep Litter System The deep litter system is a hybrid of solid flooring and bedding management. A thick layer of absorbent bedding, 6 to 12 inches deep, is placed on a solid floor. The top layer stays relatively clean because the urine drains down through the bedding. The entire litter is removed and composted every few months. This system is more common in rabbit tractors and outdoor colony setups than in indoor cages. It provides excellent foot comfort and allows natural digging behavior. The downside is that it requires a large space and careful management to prevent ammonia buildup. Deep litter works best in well-ventilated outdoor areas. In an enclosed barn, the ammonia from a deep litter system can become overwhelming quickly. --- ## Cleaning and Maintenance by Floor Type The best floor for rabbits is only as good as your cleaning routine. A wire floor with a dirty dropping tray is worse than a solid floor with fresh bedding. Establish a schedule and stick to it. ### Wire Floor Cleaning Schedule Daily tasks: - Remove and empty the dropping tray or collection pan - Spot-clean any feces that have accumulated on the wire surface, especially around the feeder and waterer - Check the resting mats and remove any soiled ones - Check the water system for leaks that could wet the floor Weekly tasks: - Scrub the dropping tray with a disinfectant solution - Wash and disinfect the resting mats - Inspect the wire for rust, broken welds, and sharp edges - Hose down the floor if your setup allows it, then let it dry completely before returning the rabbits Monthly tasks: - Remove the rabbits to a clean holding cage - Deep clean the entire cage, including the wire floor, frame, and supports - Check the galvanization for wear and touch up any bare spots with a zinc-rich paint - Replace any wire sections that show significant corrosion ### Solid Floor Cleaning Schedule Daily tasks: - Spot-clean wet bedding and feces - Add fresh bedding to maintain at least 2 inches of depth - Check for urine pooling and dry any wet spots Weekly tasks: - Remove all bedding and wash the floor with a disinfectant - Let the floor dry completely before adding fresh bedding - Inspect the floor for damage, warping, or areas that have absorbed urine Monthly tasks: - Apply a fresh sealant coat to wood floors if needed - Check plastic floors for cracks or warping - Evaluate your bedding usage and adjust if the floor is staying too wet ### Disinfectant Selection Choose a disinfectant that is effective against the pathogens common in rabbitries. A 10 percent bleach solution (1 part bleach to 9 parts water) is cheap and effective, but it is corrosive to metal and can be irritating to rabbits if not rinsed thoroughly. Commercial disinfectants such as those containing accelerated hydrogen peroxide or quaternary ammonium compounds are safer for equipment and effective against a broad range of pathogens. Always follow the label instructions for dilution and contact time. Rinse all surfaces thoroughly after disinfecting. Residual disinfectant can cause skin irritation on rabbit feet, especially on wire floors where the rabbit stands directly on the treated surface. --- ## Climate Considerations Your local climate should influence your flooring choice. ### Hot and Humid Climates In hot, humid regions, moisture is your enemy. Wire floors are the best choice because they allow maximum airflow and rapid drying. Solid floors stay damp, and damp floors in heat promote bacterial growth and fly infestations. In these climates, use wire floors with a resting mat made from a material that dries quickly. Avoid solid plastic mats that retain heat. Check the dropping tray daily, as the humidity will accelerate ammonia production. ### Cold Climates In cold climates, rabbits need to conserve body heat. Wire floors conduct heat away from the rabbit's body faster than solid floors. A rabbit sitting on wire in a cold barn loses body heat through its feet. The solution is not to switch to a solid floor, which creates sanitation problems, but to provide a solid resting area and additional bedding in the nesting area. A resting mat made from a thicker plastic or a piece of plywood covered with a waterproof layer gives the rabbit a warm place to sit. In very cold conditions, you can add a layer of straw on top of the resting mat. The straw provides insulation and can be replaced daily. ### Wet and Rainy Climates Outdoor hutches in rainy climates need floors that drain well and do not hold water. Wire floors are ideal. If you use a solid floor in an outdoor hutch, you must provide a roof and elevate the hutch to keep the floor dry. Check outdoor hutches after heavy rain. Water can splash up through wire floors and wet the rabbit's feet. A solid roof and a windbreak on the prevailing weather side will reduce this problem. --- ## Common Flooring Mistakes ### Mistake 1: Using the Wrong Mesh Size Many new rabbit owners buy wire with 1 by 2 inch mesh because it is cheaper and more readily available. This mesh is dangerous for rabbits. Feet slip through the large openings, causing broken toes, sprains, and trapped legs. Always use 1/2 by 1 inch for adults and 1/2 by 1/2 inch for young rabbits. ### Mistake 2: Ignoring Wire Gauge Thin wire sags. Sagging wire creates uneven pressure on the feet and gaps that trap toes. If your wire floor bounces or flexes when the rabbit moves, it is too thin. Replace it with 14 gauge wire and add support braces underneath. ### Mistake 3: Forgetting the Resting Mat A wire floor without a resting mat is a recipe for sore hocks. Even with perfect sanitation, the constant pressure of wire on the hocks will eventually cause problems in many rabbits. The resting mat is not optional. It is a critical part of the flooring system. ### Mistake 4: Letting Droppings Accumulate A dropping tray that is emptied once a week creates an ammonia problem that affects the rabbit's respiratory health and foot health. The ammonia in the air settles on the rabbit's coat and feet, and the moisture from the decomposing droppings rises into the cage. Empty the dropping tray daily. ### Mistake 5: Using Cedar Bedding Cedar shavings are aromatic and pleasant to humans, but they are toxic to rabbits. The phenols in cedar can cause liver damage and respiratory problems. Use kiln-dried pine, aspen, or paper-based bedding instead. ### Mistake 6: Not Inspecting Feet Regularly You cannot prevent sore hocks if you never look at your rabbits' feet. Make foot inspection part of your weekly routine. Pick up each rabbit, turn it over, and check the underside of the hocks for hair loss, redness, or swelling. Early detection makes treatment much more effective. ### Mistake 7: Ignoring the Water System A leaking water bottle or nipple can keep a section of the floor constantly wet. This wet spot softens the rabbit's feet and promotes bacterial growth. Check your water system daily and fix any leaks immediately. --- ## Decision Framework: Choosing Your Flooring Use this framework to make your flooring decision based on your specific situation. ### Step 1: Assess Your Rabbit Population Count your rabbits and note their breeds and weights. Heavy breeds above 10 pounds need more foot support than small breeds. Breeding does need resting areas, especially when they are heavy with a litter. Young grow-outs can tolerate wire better than older rabbits. ### Step 2: Assess Your Facility Is your rabbitry indoors or outdoors? Do you have electricity for lights and ventilation? What is your water source for cleaning? Indoor facilities can support solid floors with bedding, while outdoor facilities generally need wire for drainage. ### Step 3: Assess Your Labor How much time can you spend on cleaning each day? Wire floors with dropping trays require about 10 to 15 minutes per day for a small herd. Solid floors with bedding require 30 to 45 minutes per day. If you have limited time, choose wire. ### Step 4: Assess Your Climate Hot and humid climates favor wire. Cold climates need resting mats and insulation. Rainy climates need good drainage and protection from splash. ### Step 5: Assess Your Budget Wire floors have a higher upfront cost but last longer and require less daily labor. Solid floors are cheaper to build but require ongoing bedding purchases and more labor. Calculate the cost per year, not just the initial cost. ### Step 6: Make Your Choice Based on your assessments, choose one of these systems: - Commercial meat production, indoor: 14 gauge wire with dropping trays and resting mats - Backyard meat production, outdoor: 14 gauge wire with dropping trays, resting mats, and a solid nest box - Show rabbits, indoor: Solid plastic slatted flooring or wire with large resting mats - Pet rabbits, indoor: Solid plastic floor with deep bedding in a litter box area - Colony raising, outdoor: Deep litter system on a solid floor with excellent ventilation --- ## Monitoring and Recordkeeping Good recordkeeping helps you identify flooring problems before they become serious. Keep a simple log for each rabbit or each cage. ### Weekly Foot Check Log For each rabbit, record: - Date of inspection - Rabbit identification number - Foot condition (normal, hair loss, redness, scab, open wound) - Any visible changes in the floor (rust, sharp edges, sagging) - Any changes in rabbit behavior (reluctance to move, sitting in one spot) ### Monthly Floor Inspection Log For each cage, record: - Date of inspection - Wire condition (good, minor rust, significant rust, broken wire) - Resting mat condition (clean, soiled, worn, cracked) - Dropping tray condition - Any repairs made - Date of last deep cleaning ### Health Event Log When you treat a rabbit for sore hocks or any foot injury, record: - Rabbit identification number - Date the problem was first noticed - Grade of sore hocks - Treatment given - Date of follow-up check - Outcome (resolved, improved, no change, worsened) These records help you identify patterns. If several rabbits in the same row of cages develop sore hocks, the problem is likely in the flooring or environmental conditions in that row. If one rabbit has recurring problems, the issue may be genetic or related to that rabbit's weight. --- ## When to Call a Veterinarian or Extension Agent You can handle most flooring decisions and early sore hock cases on your own. However, there are times when you need professional help. ### Call a Veterinarian When: - You see an open wound on a rabbit's foot that is deeper than a surface scrape - The wound has a foul odor or is producing pus - The rabbit is not eating or is showing signs of severe pain - The rabbit has a fever or seems lethargic - You have treated a sore hock for 7 days with no improvement - The rabbit has recurring sore hocks despite good flooring and management ### Call an Extension Agent When: - You are designing a new rabbitry and want advice on flooring and ventilation systems - You are considering a major investment in new cages and want to compare options - You are seeing a pattern of health problems in your herd that you cannot explain - You want to learn about best practices for rabbit welfare and production in your region - You are planning to expand your operation and need guidance on facility design Extension agents are employed by land-grant universities and can provide research-based recommendations specific to your local climate and production system. They are a free resource that many rabbit producers overlook. --- ## Frequently Asked Questions ### Is wire or solid flooring better for rabbits? Wire flooring is better for sanitation and disease prevention because it keeps rabbits out of their urine and feces. Solid flooring is more comfortable for the rabbit's feet but requires much more frequent cleaning to prevent moisture and ammonia buildup. The best system for most rabbitries is wire flooring with a solid plastic resting mat in one corner of the cage. This gives the rabbit a comfortable place to rest while maintaining the drainage and cleaning advantages of wire. ### What is the best wire mesh size for a [rabbit hutch](/knowledge/veterinary-medicine/small-mammal-care/rabbit-housing-indoor-vs-outdoor-hutches-and-enrichment) floor? For adult rabbits, use 1/2 by 1 inch welded wire mesh. The 1/2 inch dimension should run across the width of the cage. For young rabbits under 6 weeks old, use 1/2 by 1/2 inch mesh to prevent their smaller feet from slipping through. Do not use 1 by 2 inch mesh, which is too large and can cause broken toes or trapped legs. ### What gauge wire should I use for rabbit flooring? Use 14 gauge wire for adult rabbit cages. This thickness is strong enough to support heavy breeds without sagging and has a larger surface area that distributes pressure better than thinner wire. Sixteen gauge is acceptable for small breeds and young rabbits but will sag under heavy adults. Never use wire thinner than 16 gauge for a rabbit floor. ### How do I prevent sore hocks in rabbits? Prevent sore hocks by providing a resting mat on wire floors, keeping the floor dry, maintaining good sanitation, managing rabbit weight, and selecting breeding stock with good foot fur. Inspect your rabbits' feet weekly and address any early signs of hair loss or redness immediately. A clean wire floor with a resting mat is the most effective prevention system. ### Can I use a solid wood floor in a rabbit hutch? You can use a solid wood floor in a fully indoor hutch with deep bedding, but it is not recommended for most situations. Wood absorbs urine, becomes saturated with ammonia, and is nearly impossible to fully clean once contaminated. If you must use wood, seal it with a non-toxic waterproof coating, change bedding frequently, and inspect it regularly for signs of saturation. ### How often should I clean a wire rabbit hutch floor? Empty the dropping tray daily. Spot-clean the wire surface daily, especially around the feeder and waterer. Wash and disinfect the dropping tray weekly. Deep clean the entire cage, including the wire floor, monthly. Resting mats should be cleaned daily or swapped out with a clean mat each day. ### What bedding should I use for a solid floor rabbit hutch? Use kiln-dried pine shavings, aspen shavings, paper-based bedding pellets, or straw over a layer of shavings. Do not use cedar shavings, which are toxic to rabbits. Maintain at least 2 inches of bedding depth and spot-clean daily. Change the full bedding every 3 to 7 days depending on the number of rabbits and humidity levels. ### What are the signs of sore hocks in rabbits? Early signs include hair loss on the underside of the hock, redness, and reluctance to move or sit normally. As the condition progresses, you may see scabs, cracks, swelling, and open wounds. Severe cases show deep ulcers, pus, a foul odor, and signs of pain such as teeth grinding or refusing to eat. Check your rabbits' feet weekly to catch problems early. --- ## Related Farming Guides This section will be populated with links to related [rabbit farming](/knowledge/animal-farming/rabbits/rabbit-farming-housing-feeding-breeding-welfare-and-health-observation) guides, including articles on cage design, nutrition for breeding does, rabbit health management, and biosecurity for small livestock operations. Check back for updated content or browse the farming library for more resources. --- ## Related Clinical & Scientific Guides * [Rabbit Housing for Meat Production: Efficient and Humane Systems](/knowledge/animal-farming/rabbits/rabbit-housing-meat-production-efficient-humane) * [Raising Meat Rabbits From Weaning to Processing Weight](/knowledge/animal-farming/rabbits/raising-meat-rabbits-from-weaning-to-processing-weight) * [Rabbit Cage Sizing and Space Requirements by Breed and Stage](/knowledge/animal-farming/rabbits/rabbit-cage-sizing-space-requirements-breed-stage) ## References - FAO Rabbit Production: https://www.fao.org/animal-production/en/ - USDA APHIS Rabbit Health: https://www.aphis.usda.gov/livestock-poultry-disease - FAO Animal Production and Health: https://www.fao.org/animal-production/en/ - WOAH (World Organisation for Animal Health): https://www.woah.org/en/home/ > This article is educational and is not a substitute for veterinary diagnosis, treatment, public-health guidance, or regulatory reporting.