# Goat Fencing Options: Choosing the Right Fence for Your Herd ## Key Takeaways - Woven wire fencing, particularly with a 4x4 inch mesh at the bottom 24 inches and a Class 3 galvanization, is the gold standard for permanent goat containment, offering a robust physical barrier with a lifespan of 20-30 years. - Electric netting is highly effective for rotational grazing and temporary paddocks due to its low cost, ease of deployment, and psychological deterrence, though its lifespan is typically 5-10 years and requires diligent vegetation management to prevent shorting. - High tensile electric fencing, utilizing 5-7 strands with specific spacing (bottom wire 6 inches off the ground, subsequent wires spaced 6, 8, 10, 12 inches apart), provides a cost-effective, low-maintenance permanent solution for large pastures, but offers no physical barrier against predators. - Fence height is critical for predator deterrence, with 48-54 inches generally sufficient for containment, while the bottom of the fence must be kept within 4-6 inches of the ground to prevent goats from crawling underneath. - A properly energized electric fence, requiring a low-impedance energizer rated for fence length plus 20% and a minimum of three 6-8 foot ground rods in moist soil, is paramount for effective containment, as a weak shock renders the fence ineffective. - Page wire with an electric offset at nose height (18-24 inches) combines the physical barrier of tight mesh with the deterrent of electricity, representing the most reliable permanent system for minimizing escapes and predator incursions. --- If you keep goats, you already know the truth: goats are escape artists. They test fences daily, exploit weak corners, and find gaps you never noticed. A fence that works for cattle or horses will not hold goats. This guide compares the main [goat fencing](/knowledge/veterinary-medicine/equine-and-farm/goat-fencing-and-shelter-secure-housing-for-your-herd) materials and systems available today, explains how to match a fence to your herd size, predator pressure, and budget, and walks you through installation and maintenance steps that keep goats where they belong. It is written for small and mid-size producers, homesteaders, and anyone planning a new goat operation or replacing a failing fence. ## At a Glance | Fence Type | Best For | Height Needed | Relative Cost | Lifespan | |---|---|---|---|---| | Woven wire | Permanent perimeter, general herd containment | 48 to 54 inches | Moderate | 20 to 30 years | | Electric netting | Temporary paddocks, rotational grazing | 36 to 42 inches | Low to moderate | 5 to 10 years | | High tensile electric | Large pastures, low maintenance | 48 to 54 inches | Low after install | 20 to 30 years | | Cattle panels | Small pens, kidding areas, temporary corrals | 50 to 60 inches | Moderate | 15 to 25 years | | Page wire with electric offset | Permanent fence with extra deterrent | 48 to 54 inches | Moderate to high | 20 to 30 years | Key takeaways: woven wire with a hot wire offset is the gold standard for permanent goat fencing. Electric netting is the best tool for rotational grazing and temporary setups. Fence height matters more for keeping predators out than for keeping goats in. A properly energized fence is the difference between a working system and a goat highway. ## Why Goats Are Hard on Fences Goats are curious, agile, and persistent. They stand on their hind legs to test weak spots. They push against posts with their shoulders. They rub their heads and horns on wires until something gives. A goat that finds a loose wire or a sagging gate will work at it until it finds a way through. Understanding goat behavior helps you build a fence that works with the animal instead of against it. Goats are browsers, not grazers like cattle or sheep. They reach through fence openings to grab leaves and branches on the other side. If their head fits through, they will try to pull it back with a mouthful of forage. This constant pulling loosens staples and bends wires over time. Goats also follow social patterns. A herd that can see other goats or livestock on the other side of a fence will test it more often. A lone goat is more likely to pace and push than a content herd. Keeping goats busy with forage, toys, or companions reduces fence pressure. Predator pressure matters too. In many areas, the fence must keep goats in and keep dogs, coyotes, and other predators out. A fence that is tall enough to deter a coyote is usually tall enough to hold goats. The bigger challenge is the bottom of the fence. Predators dig under fences, and goats push under them when the bottom wire is too high off the ground. ## Goat Fence Height: What Actually Works The standard recommendation for goat fence height is 48 to 54 inches for permanent fences. Some producers use 60 inch fences in high predator areas or for breeds known for jumping. Most goats can clear a 36 inch fence if they are determined. They rarely jump a 48 inch fence, and a 54 inch fence stops all but the most athletic individuals. Fence height serves two purposes. First, it physically blocks goats from jumping over. Second, it creates a visual barrier that discourages testing. Goats are less likely to challenge a fence they cannot see through easily. Solid panels or fences with closely spaced wires reduce the temptation to push through. The bottom of the fence is just as important as the top. Goats will crawl under a fence if the bottom wire is more than 4 to 6 inches off the ground. Keep the bottom wire low and tight. In areas with digging predators, bury the bottom edge of woven wire 6 to 12 inches deep or add an apron of wire on the ground extending outward. For electric netting, the effective height is different. Goats respect electric netting because of the shock, not the physical barrier. A 36 inch electric netting can hold most goats if it is properly charged and visible. Horned goats are the exception. They can push under the bottom line or lift the netting with their horns. If you keep horned goats, use 42 inch electric netting and stake it firmly. ## Comparing Goat Fence Materials ### Woven Wire Woven wire, also called field fence or goat fence, is the most common permanent fencing for goats. It consists of horizontal and vertical wires woven together in a grid pattern. The mesh size matters. Standard field fence with 6 by 6 inch mesh works for adult goats but allows kids to squeeze through. Use a fence with 4 by 4 inch mesh for the bottom 24 inches if you raise kids. Woven wire comes in different heights, typically 48, 52, and 58 inches. The taller options cost more but offer better protection against predators. Choose galvanized wire for longevity. Class 3 galvanization lasts significantly longer than Class 1 in most climates. Installation requires sturdy corner posts and line posts every 8 to 12 feet. The wire must be stretched tight. Loose woven wire sags and creates gaps at the bottom. Use a come-along or fence stretcher to pull the wire taut before stapling. A single strand of electric wire offset 4 to 6 inches from the woven wire at nose height, about 18 to 24 inches off the ground, greatly improves the fence. Goats learn to respect the hot wire and stop testing the woven wire. This combination is the most reliable permanent goat fence system. ### Electric Netting Electric netting consists of plastic posts with integrated horizontal wires and vertical tapes that form a portable fence. It rolls up for easy movement. It is the standard choice for rotational grazing systems where goats move to fresh pasture regularly. The netting comes in heights from 32 to 48 inches. The 36 inch height is the most popular for goats. Each roll covers 50 to 150 feet depending on the brand. Corner posts and step-in posts support the netting. A quality energizer delivers a strong pulse through the netting. Electric netting works only if the fence is properly charged and grounded. The vegetation under the netting must be controlled. Tall grass touching the netting shorts out the charge and reduces effectiveness. Move the fence regularly and mow or graze the strip under the fence line. This fencing is not ideal for permanent installations. The plastic posts degrade in sunlight over several years. The netting can be damaged by deer running through it or by goats pushing under it. But for temporary paddocks, electric netting is fast to set up, easy to move, and surprisingly effective. ### High Tensile Electric High tensile electric fencing uses smooth or slightly textured wire stretched at high tension between posts. Multiple strands create a barrier. For goats, use 5 to 7 strands spaced closer together at the bottom. The spacing pattern matters. Start with the bottom wire 6 inches off the ground. Space the next wires 6, 8, 10, and 12 inches apart as you go up. The top wire should sit at 48 to 54 inches. This spacing prevents goats from crawling under and discourages jumping. High tensile wire requires a powerful energizer and excellent grounding. The wire itself is not a physical barrier. It works entirely through psychological deterrence. Goats that learn to respect the shock will stay back from the fence line. This system is cheaper per foot than woven wire once installed. It lasts for decades with minimal maintenance. The downside is that it does nothing to keep predators out. A coyote can walk between the wires. Some producers add a woven wire section at the bottom or run a hot wire low to deter digging. High tensile fencing is best for large pastures and for producers comfortable with more complex installation. The wire must be properly tensioned and insulated. Poorly installed high tensile fence is worse than no fence because goats learn they can push through. ### Cattle Panels Cattle panels are welded wire panels that come in 16 foot lengths and stand about 50 to 60 inches tall. They are not designed specifically for goats but work well for small pens, kidding areas, and temporary corrals. The grid spacing on cattle panels is typically 4 by 4 inches at the bottom and 6 by 8 inches toward the top. This spacing holds most adult goats but may allow kids to escape through the larger upper openings. Panels with 4 inch spacing throughout are better for goat operations. Cattle panels are easy to install. You need T-posts every 4 to 6 feet and zip ties or wire clips to secure the panel to the posts. Panels can be curved to create corners and connected with wire or panel clips. The main limitation is cost per linear foot. Cattle panels cost more than woven wire for long runs. They shine in small areas where their rigidity and quick installation are advantages. A kidding pen or quarantine area built from cattle panels goes up in an afternoon and lasts for years. ### Page Wire with Electric Offset Page wire is a woven wire with small mesh, often 6 inches or less between wires. It is sold in rolls similar to field fence but with a tighter grid. This is the traditional sheep and goat fence in many regions. For goats, choose page wire that is at least 48 inches tall. The tight mesh at the bottom prevents kids from squeezing through. Add a single electric wire offset 4 to 6 inches outside the page wire at nose height. This hot wire prevents goats from rubbing and pushing on the woven wire. This system combines the physical barrier of woven wire with the psychological deterrent of electricity. It is the most effective permanent goat fence available. The cost is higher than woven wire alone, but the added protection pays for itself in reduced escapes and lower predator losses. ## Electric Fencing for Goats: How to Make It Work Electric fencing is only as good as its energizer, grounding, and installation. Many goat fence failures trace back to an underpowered energizer or poor grounding. ### Choosing an Energizer The energizer must deliver enough voltage to penetrate goat hair and wool. Goats have a thick winter coat that insulates them from shock. A fence that works in summer may fail in winter when goats grow their heavy coats. Use an energizer rated for the length of fence you run plus 20 percent. If you have 1,000 feet of fence, buy an energizer rated for at least 1,200 feet. For goats, choose a low impedance energizer that delivers high voltage even when vegetation touches the wire. Look for an energizer that outputs at least 4,000 to 5,000 volts on the fence line. A voltmeter is essential equipment. Test the fence monthly and after any storm or vegetation growth. ### Grounding Is the Weak Link A fence cannot shock if the grounding system is poor. The energizer pushes current into the fence and needs a complete circuit back through the ground. Install at least three ground rods, each 6 to 8 feet long, spaced 10 feet apart. Connect them with the same gauge wire used for the fence. Place the ground rods in moist soil. In dry climates, the grounding system may need more rods or a different location. Test the fence in both wet and dry conditions to confirm the shock is strong. ### Wire Selection Use galvanized wire for permanent electric fences. The wire should be at least 12.5 gauge for long runs. Smaller gauge wire has more resistance and loses voltage over distance. High tensile wire works well for permanent installations. Polywire and polytape work for temporary fences and electric netting. They are lightweight and easy to move but degrade in sunlight and break under heavy pressure. Use them only for short-term fencing. ### Vegetation Control The most common cause of electric fence failure is vegetation touching the wire. Grass, weeds, and brush short out the fence and drain voltage. You can do three things to control this. First, clear a strip at least 18 inches wide under the fence line. Use a string trimmer, mower, or herbicide. Second, choose an energizer powerful enough to burn through light vegetation. Some energizers are designed for heavy weed loads. Third, check the fence line regularly and cut back growth before it becomes a problem. ## Step by Step: Installing a Permanent Goat Fence A permanent goat fence requires planning and careful installation. Follow these steps for a fence that lasts decades. ### Step 1: Lay Out the Fence Line Walk the perimeter and mark corner locations. Use wooden stakes and string to visualize the line. Clear brush and trees from the fence line. A clear working area makes installation faster and prevents future vegetation problems. ### Step 2: Set Corner Posts Corners carry the tension of the entire fence. Use 6 to 8 inch diameter wooden posts or heavy steel posts set 3 to 4 feet deep in concrete. The corner posts must be absolutely solid. A weak corner post will pull out of the ground and ruin the fence. Install brace assemblies at each corner. A horizontal brace post running diagonally from the corner post to a second post distributes tension. For long fence runs, add brace assemblies at every gate and at intervals of 500 feet. ### Step 3: Install Line Posts Space line posts 8 to 12 feet apart for woven wire and 20 to 30 feet apart for high tensile electric. Use T-posts for speed and economy. Wooden posts cost more but last longer and hold staples better. Drive T-posts with a post driver. The bottom of the post should be 18 to 24 inches in the ground. Check that posts are plumb and aligned with the fence line. ### Step 4: Stretch the Wire Woven wire comes in rolls. Unroll it along the fence line and attach one end to a corner post. Use a fence stretcher or come-along to pull the wire tight. The wire should be taut but not overstretched. Overstretched wire will break at the weakest point. Attach the wire to line posts with fence staples or wire clips. Drive staples partway in so the wire can move slightly. Staples driven flush can break the wire as it expands and contracts with temperature changes. ### Step 5: Add the Electric Offset Install offset brackets on the posts at nose height, about 18 to 24 inches off the ground. Run a single strand of electric wire through the brackets. Connect this wire to the energizer and ground system. The offset should hold the hot wire 4 to 6 inches away from the woven wire. This spacing keeps goats from reaching the woven wire while allowing them to touch the hot wire with their nose or shoulder. ### Step 6: Install Gates Gates are the weakest point in any fence. Use a sturdy gate at least 48 inches wide for foot traffic and 10 to 12 feet wide for equipment. Hang gates so they swing freely and latch securely. A goat that learns to open a gate will do it repeatedly. Install a gate at every entrance you need. Do not plan to climb over the fence. You will need to move goats, equipment, and feed through the fence regularly. A well placed gate saves time and reduces wear on the fence. ## Step by Step: Setting Up Electric Netting for Rotational Grazing Electric netting is the go to choice for producers who move goats frequently. Here is how to set it up correctly. ### Step 1: Choose the Paddock Size Match the paddock size to your herd and the available forage. A general rule is 20 to 30 goats per acre of good pasture for a few days of grazing. Start with a smaller paddock and move the goats more often. This gives you better forage utilization and reduces parasite buildup. ### Step 2: Lay Out the Netting Unroll the netting along the planned fence line. The posts are already attached to the netting. Push each post into the ground firmly. In hard soil, use a post driver or water the ground first. Make square or rectangular paddocks. Curved lines are harder to keep tight and create weak spots. Keep the netting line straight between corner posts. ### Step 3: Install the Energizer Connect the energizer to the netting with the included lead wire. The energizer must be protected from weather. Use a battery powered energizer for remote locations or a plug in energizer near a building. Test the fence with a voltmeter before turning goats in. The voltage should read at least 4,000 volts. Walk the entire fence line and check for sagging netting or posts that have pulled loose. ### Step 4: Teach the Goats the Fence Goats need to learn that electric netting is dangerous. Turn them into the paddock and watch them closely for the first hour. Most goats will touch the fence with their nose and back away quickly. A goat that runs through the fence will break the netting and may escape. If a goat breaks through, repair the netting immediately and reinforce the area. Some producers run a single strand of polywire across the break point to add a visual and physical deterrent. ### Step 5: Move the Netting When the forage is grazed down, move the netting to fresh pasture. Roll up the netting, moving the goats to a holding pen first. Set up the new paddock and move the goats. Rotate every 3 to 7 days depending on forage growth and stocking rate. ## Common Goat Fencing Mistakes ### Mistake 1: Undersizing the Energizer A weak energizer cannot push enough voltage through the fence to stop a determined goat. Buy an energizer rated for more fence than you need. The extra cost is small compared to the cost of lost animals. ### Mistake 2: Poor Grounding A fence with a weak ground system will not deliver a consistent shock. Install three ground rods minimum and test the fence regularly. In dry climates, add more rods or move them to a wetter location. ### Mistake 3: Leaving the Bottom Wire Too High Goats will crawl under a fence if the bottom is more than 6 inches off the ground. Keep the bottom wire low and tight. Check the fence line after heavy rain or snowmelt, as frost heave can lift posts and create gaps. ### Mistake 4: Using Fence with Large Mesh Standard field fence with 6 by 6 inch mesh holds adult goats but lets kids escape. Use a smaller mesh at the bottom or add electric netting for kidding season. Many producers run a temporary electric line along the bottom of the fence when kids are present. ### Mistake 5: Ignoring Gates A weak gate undoes all the work of a strong fence. Gates must be as sturdy as the fence and latch securely. Check gate latches regularly. Goats learn to push gates open and will teach each other. ### Mistake 6: Forgetting Predator Pressure A fence that holds goats may not stop a coyote or a neighbor's dog. In areas with predators, add a hot wire at the bottom, bury the fence edge, or use a taller fence. Predator losses are devastating and preventable with the right fence design. ### Mistake 7: Not Testing the Fence An electric fence that is not charged is just a trip hazard. Test the voltage monthly and after any event that could damage the fence. Keep a voltmeter in the barn and use it. ## Decision Thresholds: Which Fence Should You Choose? The right fence depends on your situation. Use these thresholds to narrow your options. ### Choose Woven Wire with Electric Offset If You need a permanent fence that will last 20 years or more. You have a medium to large pasture. You want a physical barrier that contains goats even without power. You are willing to invest more upfront for lower long term maintenance. You have predator pressure and need the bottom of the fence secured. ### Choose Electric Netting If You practice rotational grazing and move goats every few days. You have a small herd. You need a temporary fence that is easy to set up and move. You have a reliable energizer and check the fence regularly. You do not need to keep predators out, or you use electric netting in combination with another fence. ### Choose High Tensile Electric If You have a large pasture and want the lowest cost per foot. You are comfortable with a more complex installation. You have good soil for grounding. You have no predator problem or you combine it with a woven wire bottom. You can commit to regular fence checks and maintenance. ### Choose Cattle Panels If You need a small pen or corral. You are setting up kidding or quarantine areas. You want something fast to install and easy to move. You have a small budget for a temporary setup. You do not need to fence a long perimeter. ### Choose Page Wire with Electric Offset If You want the most reliable permanent goat fence available. You are willing to pay more for the best containment. You have predator pressure. You raise kids and need small mesh at the bottom. You want minimal escape risk. ## Monitoring and Maintenance A fence is never a set and forget system. Regular monitoring catches problems before they become escapes. ### Weekly Checks Walk the fence line weekly. Look for sagging wires, loose staples, and posts that have shifted. Check gates and latches. Test the voltage on electric fences with a voltmeter. Look for vegetation touching the wires. ### Seasonal Checks Inspect the fence after heavy weather. Snow and ice can pull wires down. Wind can loosen posts. Flooding can wash out post footings. Spring thaw can heave posts and create gaps at the bottom. Trim vegetation along the fence line at least twice per growing season. Mow the strip under the fence. Cut back tree branches that can fall on the fence. ### Recordkeeping Keep a fence maintenance log. Record the date of each inspection, the voltage reading, and any repairs made. Note areas where goats test the fence or where escapes occurred. This log helps you identify problem spots and track the condition of the fence over time. Track the age of your fence components. Woven wire lasts 20 to 30 years. Electric netting lasts 5 to 10 years. Energizers last 10 to 15 years. Knowing the age of each component helps you plan replacements before failure. ### When to Call for Help You can handle most fence maintenance yourself. Call a professional fence installer for major repairs or new installations. If you are unsure about energizer sizing, grounding, or wire tension, get advice before you build. If you have repeated escapes despite a sound fence, consider animal behavior issues. A goat that is bored, hungry, or stressed will test fences more. Assess your herd management and forage availability before rebuilding the fence. ## When to Call a Veterinarian or Extension Agent Fence problems are not usually a veterinary issue, but they can contribute to animal health problems. If goats escape and get into toxic plants, call your veterinarian immediately. If goats are injured on fencing, treat wounds promptly and consult your veterinarian for serious injuries. Your local cooperative extension agent can help with fence design, soil testing for grounding, and pasture management. They can also provide guidance on predator control and local regulations. Many extension offices offer fence planning resources and can recommend designs for your specific region. If you are new to goat keeping, an extension agent or an experienced producer can save you from expensive mistakes. Ask about local predator pressure, common fence failures, and the best fencing for your climate and terrain. ## Frequently Asked Questions ### What is the best fence for goats? The best all around goat fence is woven wire at least 48 inches tall with a single electric wire offset 4 to 6 inches at nose height. This combination provides a physical barrier that holds goats even without power and an electric deterrent that stops them from testing the fence. For rotational grazing, electric netting is the best choice because it is easy to move and effective when properly charged. ### How tall should a goat fence be? A goat fence should be 48 to 54 inches tall for permanent installations. Most goats cannot jump a 48 inch fence. In areas with jumping breeds or heavy predator pressure, use 54 to 60 inch fence. Electric netting for goats is typically 36 to 42 inches tall because the shock, not the height, is the deterrent. ### Will electric netting hold goats? Yes, electric netting holds goats when it is properly installed and charged. The fence must deliver at least 4,000 volts and the netting must be tight to the ground. Goats learn to respect the shock quickly. Horned goats can be a problem because they can lift the netting with their horns. Use 42 inch netting and stake it firmly if you keep horned goats. ### How far apart should fence posts be for goats? Space line posts 8 to 12 feet apart for woven wire and 20 to 30 feet apart for high tensile electric. T-posts are the most common choice for line posts. Corner posts need to be much larger and set deeper because they carry the tension of the entire fence. ### What is the cheapest way to fence goats? The cheapest upfront option is electric netting or high tensile electric. Electric netting costs more per foot than high tensile but is easier to install. High tensile electric requires more labor and expertise but costs the least per foot over the life of the fence. The cheapest fence that works is almost always better than the cheapest fence that fails. ### Do goats need a hot wire on a woven wire fence? A hot wire on a woven wire fence is strongly recommended. Goats push and rub on woven wire, which loosens staples and creates gaps over time. A single electric wire offset at nose height stops this behavior. The hot wire extends the life of the woven wire and prevents escapes. ### Can goats jump over a 4 foot fence? Most goats can jump a 4 foot fence if they are determined. A 48 inch fence stops most goats in normal conditions, but a frightened or highly motivated goat can clear it. For breeds known for jumping, or in high stress situations, use a 54 inch fence or add a top electric wire. ### How do I stop goats from pushing under the fence? Keep the bottom wire 4 to 6 inches off the ground and tight. Add a hot wire low to the ground if goats are pushing under. In areas with digging predators, bury the bottom edge of the fence 6 to 12 inches deep or add an apron of wire extending outward on the ground. Check the fence line regularly for gaps created by frost heave or soil erosion. ## Related Farming Guides - [Goat Fencing Options: Electric, Woven Wire, and Netting](/knowledge/animal-farming/goats/goat-fencing-options-electric-woven-wire-netting) This section will be populated with links to related farming guides covering goat health, pasture management, predator control, and other goat husbandry topics. Check back for updates or use the site navigation to find more [goat farming](/knowledge/animal-farming/goats/goat-farming-dairy-and-meat-production-browse-kidding-parasite-risk-and-welfare) resources. ## Related Clinical & Scientific Guides * [Goat Breeding Season Planning: Timing, Nutrition, and Health Checks](/knowledge/animal-farming/goats/goat-breeding-season-planning) * [Alfalfa Hay for Goats: Feeding Decisions and Mineral Context](/knowledge/animal-farming/goats/alfalfa-hay-for-goats-feeding-decisions-and-mineral-context) * [Goat Fiber Production: Cashmere and Mohair Management](/knowledge/animal-farming/goats/goat-fiber-production-cashmere-mohair-management) ## References - American Consortium for [Small Ruminant Parasite Control](/knowledge/veterinary-medicine/food-animal-medicine/small-ruminant-parasite-control-diagnostic-strategies-anthelmintic-stewardship) (ACSRPC): https://www.wormx.info/ - USDA APHIS Goat Health: https://www.aphis.usda.gov/livestock-poultry-disease/sheep-goats - FAO Sheep and Goat Production: https://www.fao.org/animal-production/en/ - FAO Animal Production and Health: https://www.fao.org/animal-production/en/ - WOAH (World Organisation for Animal Health): https://www.woah.org/en/home/ > This article is educational and is not a substitute for veterinary diagnosis, treatment, public-health guidance, or regulatory reporting.