# Goat Barn Fencing: Interior Pens and Partitions ## Key Takeaways - **Material Selection:** Welded wire panels, specifically cattle or hog panels, are recommended for interior goat partitions due to their rigidity and durability, resisting bending and lasting longer than woven field fence. Barbed wire and woven field fence are explicitly contraindicated due to the high risk of severe injury from entanglement of horns, legs, or heads. - **Spatial Requirements:** A minimum of 10-15 square feet per standard-sized goat is advised for group pens, increasing to 20-30 square feet for larger breeds or pregnant does nearing parturition to ensure adequate space and reduce stress. - **Design for Safety and Handling:** Install fencing with the smooth side facing the goats to prevent cuts and abscesses. Gates should be placed at corners to create natural catch areas, and all gates should swing both ways or be securable in an open position to facilitate traffic flow and prevent animal entrapment. - **Height and Containment:** A minimum partition height of 4 feet is recommended for standard goats, with 5 feet necessary for bucks and larger breeds to prevent jumping. Openings in fencing should be either too small for horns to pass through or large enough to allow them to pass without catching, avoiding intermediate sizes. - **Maintenance Protocol:** Regular monthly inspections are critical to identify and address potential hazards such as loose wires, broken welds, sagging gates, or signs of chewing and rubbing, thereby preventing injuries and ensuring structural integrity. --- Interior fencing is the backbone of a functional goat barn. It separates animals for breeding, kidding, health care, and feeding while protecting both goats and handlers. This guide covers the materials, design principles, and construction methods for interior pens and partitions, with practical guidance for both new barn builders and farmers upgrading existing facilities. It is written for small to mid scale goat producers who manage their own facilities and want to make informed decisions about layout, materials, and safety. ## At a Glance - Use welded wire or cattle panels for permanent interior partitions. They resist bending and last longer than most other options. - Never use woven field fence or barbed wire inside a barn. Goats can catch their heads, legs, or horns and suffer serious injury. - Plan for a minimum of 10 to 15 square feet per standard sized goat in a group pen, and 20 to 30 square feet for larger breeds or pregnant does close to kidding. - Place gates at corners rather than in the middle of a partition. This gives you a natural catch area and reduces stress during handling. - Use 4 feet as the minimum partition height for standard goats. Some bucks and larger breeds need 5 feet to prevent jumping. - Install all interior fencing with the smooth side facing the goats. Sharp edges and protruding wire ends cause cuts and abscesses. - Build every gate to swing both ways or hinge it so it can be secured open. This improves traffic flow and reduces the chance of goats being trapped against a wall. - Schedule a monthly walk through of all interior fencing. Look for loose wires, broken welds, sagging gates, and signs of chewing or rubbing. ## Why Interior Fencing Matters in a Goat Barn Interior fencing does more than keep goats in a designated area. It shapes daily management routines, influences animal health, and determines how safely you can handle individual animals. A well designed interior pen system lets you separate sick animals quickly, manage breeding groups, protect newborn kids, and move goats through the barn with minimal stress. Goats are curious and agile. They test fences constantly, push against gates, climb on panels, and reach through openings to grab feed or hair from animals in the next pen. Interior fencing must withstand this daily pressure. It also must protect goats from themselves. A goat that catches a horn or a leg in a poorly designed partition can panic, injure itself, and create a dangerous situation for you and other animals. The interior layout of a goat barn should support the flow of animals and people. Feed alleys, catch pens, and chutes work best when they align with the natural movement patterns of goats. Fencing that blocks sight lines or creates dead ends makes handling harder and increases stress. Fencing that opens up sight lines and gives goats a clear path forward makes every chore easier. ## Understanding Goat Behavior and Fence Requirements Before you choose materials or build a single partition, you need to understand how goats interact with fences. Goats are browsers, not grazers. They stand on their hind legs to reach leaves and branches, and they will do the same inside a barn to investigate feed, hay, or activity on the other side of a partition. This means the top of any interior fence must be high enough that a standing goat cannot hook its front legs over the top and pull itself over. Goats also test fences with their heads. They push, rub, and butt against panels and gates. A partition that looks sturdy when installed can develop weak points after months of this pressure. Welded wire panels with broken welds, gates with sagging hinges, and posts that have worked loose from the floor are all common failure points. Horned goats create special challenges. They can catch a horn in woven wire, in the gaps of a panel, or between a gate and a post. If you keep horned goats, you need fencing with openings that are either too small for a horn to enter or large enough that a horn passes through without catching. The middle ground, openings just slightly larger than a horn, is the most dangerous option. Goats are social animals and prefer to see their pen mates. Solid partitions create stress because they isolate animals from the group. Use fencing that allows visual contact between adjacent pens. This reduces aggression when you introduce new animals and keeps solitary animals calmer. ## Choosing Materials for Goat Barn Interior Fencing The material you choose for interior fencing affects cost, durability, safety, and ease of installation. Each option has strengths and weaknesses. Your choice should depend on your herd size, the type of goats you keep, and your budget. ### Welded Wire Panels Welded wire panels, often sold as cattle panels or hog panels, are the most common choice for interior goat penning. These panels come in standard sizes, usually 16 feet long and 50 to 52 inches tall. The wire is welded at every intersection, which makes the panel rigid and resistant to bending. Cattle panels have larger openings, typically 4 by 4 inches or 4 by 6 inches. These work well for standard sized goats because goats cannot get their heads through the openings, but they can see through the fence easily. The larger openings also make it easier to reach through the fence to catch a goat or administer medication. Hog panels have smaller openings, usually 4 by 4 inches at the bottom and 4 by 8 inches at the top. The smaller openings at the bottom prevent kids from slipping through, while the larger openings at the top allow adult goats to see over the fence. Hog panels are a good choice for pens that will hold kids or miniature goats. Welded wire panels are strong enough that you can span 8 to 10 feet between posts without sagging. This reduces the number of posts you need and speeds up installation. Panels attach to wooden posts with fence staples or to metal T posts with wire clips. For interior use, wooden posts set in concrete give the most stable result, but metal T posts driven into the floor work well in many barns. ### Cattle Panels Cattle panels are a specific type of welded wire panel designed for handling cattle. They are heavier than standard welded wire and have a thicker wire gauge. This makes them more expensive but also more durable. Cattle panels are an excellent choice for buck pens, where the animals are larger, more aggressive, and more likely to test the fence. Cattle panels come in the same general sizes as other welded wire panels, but the wire is thicker and the welds are stronger. They can span longer distances between posts, which means fewer posts and a cleaner installation. The main drawback is cost. Cattle panels cost more per linear foot than lighter welded wire options. ### Woven Wire Fence Woven wire fence, also called field fence, is a poor choice for interior goat pens. The wire is flexible and can be pushed, stretched, and bent by goats. The horizontal wires are woven through the vertical wires, which means the fence does not hold its shape under pressure. The biggest problem with woven wire is the openings. Standard field fence has rectangular openings that are the perfect size for a goat to catch a leg or a horn. Goats that put a foot through the fence and then pull back can break a leg or tear the skin. Horned goats are at particular risk of catching a horn and panicking. If you already have woven wire in your barn, replace it as soon as practical. If you must keep it temporarily, reinforce it with welded wire panels or wooden boards along the top and bottom. ### Wooden Boards Wooden boards, usually 1 by 6 or 2 by 6 lumber, make solid and attractive interior partitions. Boards do not have openings, so goats cannot catch their heads or legs. They also provide a solid visual barrier, which can be useful in certain situations, such as separating a sick animal or a buck from the rest of the herd. The drawbacks of wooden boards are cost and maintenance. Wood is expensive, and goats chew on it. A bored goat can destroy a wooden partition in a matter of weeks. Wood also warps, splits, and rots over time, especially in the humid environment of a goat barn. If you use wooden boards, space them no more than 4 inches apart. This prevents goats from putting their heads between boards. Use treated lumber for any boards that will touch the floor or be exposed to moisture. Attach boards to the inside of the posts so that the smooth face is toward the goats. ### Metal Tubing and Pipe Metal tubing and pipe make the strongest interior fencing. A pen built from 1.5 inch or 2 inch square tubing will last for decades and withstand almost anything a goat can throw at it. The smooth surface is easy to clean and does not harbor bacteria. The cost of metal tubing is high, and installation requires welding skills or specialized fittings. Most small and mid scale producers find that welded wire panels provide adequate strength at a fraction of the cost. Metal tubing is most practical for handling facilities, such as a working chute or a catch pen, where you need maximum strength and a smooth surface. ### Electric Fence Wire Electric fence wire has a limited role inside a goat barn. It can be used as a temporary divider to create a new pen quickly or to keep goats off a specific area, such as a feed storage corner. Electric fencing inside a barn requires a properly grounded energizer and careful installation to avoid creating a fire hazard. The main drawback of electric fencing indoors is that goats learn to test it. A goat that gets a shock will often push through the fence in frustration, especially if it can see feed or other goats on the other side. Electric fencing is best used as a supplement to a physical fence, not as the primary barrier. ## Designing Your Interior Pen Layout The layout of your interior pens determines how efficiently you can manage your herd. A good layout minimizes the distance you walk, makes it easy to move goats from one area to another, and gives you safe access to every animal. ### Map Your Barn First Start by drawing a rough floor plan of your barn. Include the location of doors, windows, feed storage, water lines, and any existing structures such as posts or support beams. Mark the dimensions of the space so you know exactly how much room you have to work with. Identify the main traffic routes through the barn. Where do goats enter and exit? Where do you bring in feed and bedding? Where do you need to move animals for health checks? Your interior fencing should create clear pathways that support these movements. ### Divide the Barn into Functional Zones Most goat barns benefit from being divided into several functional zones. A typical layout includes: - A main group pen for the general herd - Individual kidding pens or small maternity pens - A sick pen or isolation area - A buck pen, if you keep a buck - A handling area with a catch pen and chute - Feed storage and hay storage areas Each zone needs its own fencing solution. The main group pen can use lighter fencing, while the buck pen needs the strongest materials you have. Kidding pens need solid construction with no gaps where a newborn kid could slip through. The handling area needs smooth, strong fencing that will not injure a panicking goat. ### Plan for Future Needs Design your layout with flexibility in mind. You may need to expand your herd, add a new breeding group, or create more kidding space in the future. Use removable panels or gates in strategic locations so you can reconfigure pens without rebuilding the entire system. One approach is to build a grid of permanent posts and use panels to create temporary partitions. This lets you change pen sizes by moving a panel rather than building a new fence. It costs more upfront but pays off when your needs change. ## Step by Step Guide to Building Interior Pens Building interior pens is a straightforward process that most farmers can handle with basic tools. The key is to plan carefully, use quality materials, and take your time with the installation. ### Step 1: Measure and Mark the Layout Use your floor plan to mark the location of every partition and gate on the barn floor. Use chalk lines or spray paint to mark the lines. Measure twice and mark once. A mistake in the layout means moving posts and panels later, which wastes time and money. Pay attention to the location of existing posts and support beams. You can often attach interior fencing to existing structures, which saves materials and labor. Just make sure the existing structure is sound and can handle the weight and pressure of goats. ### Step 2: Install Corner and End Posts First Corner and end posts carry the most stress in any fence system. They need to be the strongest posts you have and set the deepest. For interior pens, 4 by 4 treated wooden posts set in concrete are the standard choice. Dig holes at least 18 inches deep, set the post, and fill with concrete. Allow the concrete to cure for at least 24 hours before attaching any fencing. This gives the posts a solid foundation and prevents them from shifting under the weight of the panels. ### Step 3: Set Intermediate Posts Space intermediate posts according to the type of fencing you are using. For welded wire panels, you can space posts 8 to 10 feet apart. For lighter fencing, space them closer, around 6 to 8 feet. Set intermediate posts in the same way as corner posts, but you can use a smaller hole and less concrete. The intermediate posts mainly keep the fencing from bowing between the stronger corner posts. ### Step 4: Attach Panels to Posts Attach welded wire panels to wooden posts using fence staples. Drive the staples at an angle so they grip the wire firmly. Space the staples every 6 to 8 inches along the post. For metal T posts, use wire clips designed for that purpose. Wrap the clip around the post and the wire panel, then tighten with pliers. Make sure the clip is snug so the panel cannot slide up or down the post. ### Step 5: Connect Panels to Each Other Where two panels meet, overlap them by at least one full square of the mesh. Use wire ties or zip ties to secure the panels together at every intersection. This creates a continuous fence with no gaps. If you are using panels with different mesh sizes, make sure the overlap is on the side that faces the goats. This prevents gaps that could catch a hoof or horn. ### Step 6: Install Gates Install gates after the panels are in place. Position gates at corners whenever possible. This creates a natural catch area where you can corner a goat without having to chase it around the pen. Use heavy duty gate hinges and latches. Goats will push on gates constantly, and a weak hinge will fail quickly. Install a latch that you can operate with one hand, since you will often be carrying feed, a bucket, or a goat when you open a gate. ### Step 7: Check for Hazards Walk the entire fence line and inspect every connection. Look for sharp wire ends, protruding staples, loose panels, and gaps at the bottom of the fence. Fix any problem you find before putting goats in the pen. Pay special attention to the bottom of the fence. Goats will try to squeeze under a fence that does not touch the floor. The bottom of the fence should sit no more than 1 to 2 inches above the floor. If you have gaps, attach a board or a strip of panel to close them. ## Gate Placement and Design Gates are the most used part of any interior pen system. They take the most abuse and fail the most often. Getting gate placement and design right saves you time and frustration every single day. ### Gate Width and Height Make gates at least 3 feet wide for standard goat pens. This gives you room to walk through while carrying feed or a bucket. For areas where you will move large equipment, such as a wheelbarrow or a cart, make the gate 4 feet wide. Gates should match the height of the fence they are attached to. A 4 foot fence needs a 4 foot gate. A taller gate on a shorter fence looks odd and creates a visual barrier that goats may try to jump over. ### Gate Hinges Use heavy duty strap hinges or pin hinges rated for the weight of the gate. A welded wire gate can weigh 30 to 50 pounds, and the hinge takes the full weight every time the gate swings. Cheap hinges bend and pull out of the post within months. Mount hinges so the gate swings both ways, or at least so it can swing 180 degrees to lie flat against the fence. This lets you open the gate fully when moving multiple goats or equipment. ### Gate Latches Choose latches that are easy to operate with one hand and that goats cannot open. A simple hook and eye latch works well but can be opened by a clever goat. A spring loaded latch or a pin latch is more secure. Install the latch on the outside of the pen so you do not have to reach over the fence to open the gate. This keeps you out of the pen when you are moving animals and reduces the chance of a goat escaping while you fumble with the latch. ### Creating a Catch Area A catch area is a small pen, usually 4 by 4 feet or 4 by 6 feet, attached to a larger pen with a gate. You can drive a goat into the catch area and close the gate behind it. This gives you a safe way to handle individual animals for health checks, hoof trimming, or treatment. Build the catch area with solid materials and a smooth surface. A panicking goat can injure itself on protruding wires or rough edges. Make sure the catch area has a gate that opens into the main pen and another that opens to the outside, so you can move the goat in any direction you need. ## Special Considerations for Different Types of Goats Different groups of goats have different fencing needs. What works for a group of wethers may not work for a pen of pregnant does or a buck pen. ### Bucks Bucks are the most challenging goats to contain. They are larger, stronger, and more aggressive than does. They also have a strong drive to reach does in heat, which makes them relentless in their attempts to escape. Build buck pens with the strongest materials you have. Cattle panels are the minimum standard. Use 5 foot panels or add a board on top of standard 4 foot panels to prevent jumping. Set posts deeper and space them closer together to handle the extra force. Bucks also spray urine on fences and walls. This is corrosive and will rust metal panels and rot wood over time. Plan to replace fencing in buck pens more often than in other areas of the barn. ### Does and Kids Pregnant does need secure, clean pens for kidding. The fencing should have no gaps at the bottom where a newborn kid could crawl through. Use hog panels or line the bottom of cattle panels with a board to keep kids inside. Does with kids need enough space to move away from their kids without being separated from them. A kidding pen of at least 4 by 6 feet gives the doe room to lie down and stand up without stepping on her kids. ### Sick or Injured Animals Sick animals need a quiet, separate area where they can rest and recover. This pen should be away from the main traffic flow of the barn but close enough that you can check on the animal frequently. The sick pen should have solid walls or at least a visual barrier on one side. This blocks the view of other goats and reduces stress. Use smooth materials that are easy to clean and disinfect between uses. ### Miniature Goats Miniature goats, such as Nigerian Dwarfs and [Pygmy goats](/knowledge/veterinary-medicine/equine-and-farm/pygmy-goats-as-pets-care-behavior-and-health-considerations), need smaller fence openings than standard goats. Hog panels with 4 by 4 inch openings at the bottom work well. You can also use standard welded wire with a smaller mesh. Miniature goats are excellent jumpers relative to their size. A 4 foot fence is usually sufficient, but some individuals can clear it. Watch your animals and increase fence height if you see any jumping attempts. ## Common Mistakes in Goat Barn Interior Fencing Even experienced farmers make mistakes when building interior pens. Knowing the most common problems helps you avoid them. ### Using the Wrong Mesh Size Woven field fence and other fencing with large rectangular openings cause the most injuries in goat barns. Goats get their heads caught, their legs tangled, and their horns wedged. Always use welded wire panels with openings no larger than 4 by 6 inches for standard goats. ### Leaving Gaps at the Bottom Goats are experts at finding gaps under fences. A gap of just 2 to 3 inches is enough for a determined goat to squeeze under, especially if it is motivated by feed or a goat on the other side. Keep the bottom of the fence within 1 to 2 inches of the floor. ### Forgetting About Horned Goats If you keep horned goats, every opening in your fencing is a potential hazard. A horn can slip through a 4 inch opening and then get stuck when the goat turns its head. If you have horned goats, consider using fencing with smaller openings or adding a board along the bottom of the fence to block horn access. ### Skimping on Posts Interior fences take less stress than exterior fences, but they still need solid posts. A fence with flimsy posts will sag and bow within months. Use 4 by 4 treated posts at corners and at least 2 by 4 posts in between. Set corner posts in concrete. ### Placing Gates in the Middle of a Run A gate in the middle of a long partition creates a difficult handling situation. You have to chase a goat the length of the pen to reach the gate. Place gates at corners so you can use the fence lines to guide goats toward the opening. ### Ignoring the Floor Surface The floor under and around interior fencing affects both safety and cleanliness. Rough concrete can injure goat feet. Dirt floors can become muddy and unsanitary. Smooth concrete with proper drainage is the best floor for interior pens. ## Maintaining Your Interior Fencing Interior fencing requires regular maintenance to stay safe and functional. A monthly inspection catches small problems before they become serious. ### Monthly Inspections Walk every fence line in your barn at least once a month. Look for: - Broken welds on wire panels - Loose or missing staples - Sagging gates - Bent or bowed panels - Rust or corrosion - Signs of chewing or rubbing - Gaps at the bottom of fences - Loose posts Fix any problem you find immediately. A small repair takes minutes. A large repair takes hours and may require moving goats out of the pen. ### Seasonal Maintenance At the start of each season, do a more thorough inspection. Tighten all connections, replace any panels that show significant wear, and check that all gates swing freely and latch securely. Before kidding season, pay special attention to the fencing in kidding pens. Clean and disinfect all surfaces, repair any damage, and make sure there are no gaps where a newborn kid could escape. ### Replacing Damaged Panels Panels that are bent or have multiple broken welds should be replaced, not repaired. A damaged panel is weaker than it looks and may fail at a critical moment. Keep a few spare panels on hand so you can make replacements quickly. ## Making Fencing Work With Your Handling System Interior fencing is most effective when it works as part of a complete handling system. The goal is to move goats from any pen to any other area with minimal stress and effort. ### Designing a Handling Lane A handling lane is a narrow passage, usually 2 to 3 feet wide, that connects your pens to a catch pen or chute. Goats naturally move through narrow spaces more easily than wide ones, so a lane makes moving animals much easier. Build the lane with solid panels on both sides and a gate at each end. This lets you move goats in either direction and prevents them from turning around. The lane should have no openings or gaps that a goat could use to escape. ### Using the Barn Layout to Your Advantage Think about how goats move through your barn. They prefer to move toward open space and away from pressure. Use this to guide them into the areas you need them to go. When you open a gate, position yourself behind the goat and to the side. This applies gentle pressure that encourages the goat to move forward. Do not chase goats. Chasing creates panic and makes handling harder. ## Monitoring and Recordkeeping Good recordkeeping helps you track the condition of your fencing and plan for replacements. It also helps you identify problem areas that need extra attention. ### What to Track Keep a simple log of your fence inspections. Note the date of each inspection, any problems found, and the repairs made. Also note any areas where goats are testing the fence or where damage keeps recurring. Track the age of your fencing materials. Welded wire panels typically last 10 to 15 years in an interior barn environment. Wooden posts last 10 to 20 years depending on the type of wood and the moisture level. Keeping track of installation dates helps you plan for replacements before a failure. ### Using Records to Improve Review your inspection records every few months. Look for patterns. If the same area keeps having problems, it may need a more permanent solution. If a particular gate is always sagging, replace it with a heavier duty model. Use your records to plan maintenance. Schedule major repairs during slow seasons when the barn is less busy. This minimizes disruption to your herd and gives you time to do the job right. ## When to Call a Professional Most interior fencing work is within the reach of a capable farmer. However, some situations call for professional help. ### Structural Issues If your barn has structural problems, such as a sagging roof, cracked foundation, or rotting support beams, call a building professional before doing any fencing work. Fencing attached to a failing structure will not be safe, no matter how well it is built. ### Large Scale Projects If you are fencing a very large barn or building a complex handling system, consider hiring a professional installer. They have the experience and equipment to do the job efficiently and safely. The cost of professional installation is often worth it for a project of this scale. ### Electrical Work If you are installing electric fencing inside your barn, hire a licensed electrician to handle the wiring. Improperly installed electric fencing is a fire hazard and can injure animals and people. ## Frequently Asked Questions **How high should interior goat pen fencing be?** Standard sized goats need a minimum of 4 feet of fence height. Larger breeds, bucks, and athletic individuals may need 5 feet. Goats can and will jump a fence that is too low, especially when motivated by feed or a goat in heat. Watch your animals and raise the fence if you see any jumping attempts. **Can I use cattle panels for goat pens?** Yes, cattle panels are an excellent choice for goat pens. They have openings of about 4 by 4 inches or 4 by 6 inches, which are the right size for standard goats. Cattle panels are stronger than lighter welded wire panels and last longer. They cost more, but the durability often justifies the expense. **What is the best material for goat barn partitions?** Welded wire panels are the best all around choice for most goat barns. They are strong, durable, easy to install, and allow goats to see each other, which reduces stress. Use heavier cattle panels for buck pens and areas that take extra abuse. Avoid woven field fence entirely. **How do I keep goats from jumping over interior fences?** Increase the fence height to 5 feet, especially for bucks and larger breeds. You can also add a board or a strip of panel to the top of an existing fence. Some farmers use a single strand of electric wire above the fence as a deterrent. The most effective solution is to identify why the goat is jumping and address that cause. **How far apart should posts be for interior [goat fencing](/knowledge/veterinary-medicine/equine-and-farm/goat-fencing-and-shelter-secure-housing-for-your-herd)?** Space posts 8 to 10 feet apart for welded wire panels. This spacing works because the panels are rigid and do not sag between posts. If you are using lighter fencing, space posts closer, around 6 to 8 feet. Corner and end posts should be set in concrete for maximum stability. **Can goats get their heads caught in cattle panels?** Standard sized goats generally cannot get their heads through the 4 by 4 inch or 4 by 6 inch openings in cattle panels. However, kids and smaller goats can sometimes slip through. If you are concerned, use hog panels, which have smaller openings at the bottom, or add a board along the bottom of the fence. **How long does interior [goat fencing](/knowledge/animal-farming/goats/goat-fencing-options-choosing-right-fence) last?** Welded wire panels typically last 10 to 15 years in an interior barn environment. The lifespan depends on the quality of the panels, the humidity level in the barn, and how much abuse the goats give the fence. Galvanized panels last longer than non galvanized. Wooden posts last 10 to 20 years, while metal posts can last much longer. **Do I need a special permit to build interior pens in my barn?** Most interior pen construction does not require a permit because it is not a structural change to the building. However, building codes vary by location. Check with your local building department before starting a major project, especially if you are adding new electrical wiring or making structural changes. ## Related Farming Guides This section will be populated with links to related farming guides on [goat housing](/knowledge/animal-farming/alternative-livestock/goat-housing-design-shelter-space-ventilation), herd management, and barn design. Check back for updates or browse the site for more resources on goat production and facility planning. ## Related Clinical & Scientific Guides * [Goat Breeding Season Planning: Timing, Nutrition, and Health Checks](/knowledge/animal-farming/goats/goat-breeding-season-planning) * [Alfalfa Hay for Goats: Feeding Decisions and Mineral Context](/knowledge/animal-farming/goats/alfalfa-hay-for-goats-feeding-decisions-and-mineral-context) * [Goat Fiber Production: Cashmere and Mohair Management](/knowledge/animal-farming/goats/goat-fiber-production-cashmere-mohair-management) ## References - American Consortium for [Small Ruminant Parasite Control](/knowledge/veterinary-medicine/food-animal-medicine/small-ruminant-parasite-control-diagnostic-strategies-anthelmintic-stewardship) (ACSRPC): https://www.wormx.info/ - USDA APHIS Goat Health: https://www.aphis.usda.gov/livestock-poultry-disease/sheep-goats - FAO Sheep and Goat Production: https://www.fao.org/animal-production/en/ - FAO Animal Production and Health: https://www.fao.org/animal-production/en/ - WOAH (World Organisation for Animal Health): https://www.woah.org/en/home/ > This article is educational and is not a substitute for veterinary diagnosis, treatment, public-health guidance, or regulatory reporting.