# Feedlot Manure Composting Facility Design ## Key Takeaways - **Site selection and separation distances are paramount:** Establish a minimum 100-foot buffer from water sources (streams, lakes, wells) and property lines to mitigate environmental contamination and regulatory non-compliance. - **Pad construction demands a stable, sloped base:** Utilize 6-12 inches of compacted clay or a geotextile membrane with gravel, ensuring a 1-2% slope to direct contaminated runoff to a dedicated collection system. - **Optimal carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio is critical for aerobic decomposition:** Aim for a 25:1 to 30:1 C:N ratio by incorporating carbon sources like straw or wood shavings to balance high-nitrogen feedlot manure, preventing anaerobic conditions and odor generation. - **Active composting requires controlled aeration and temperature management:** Turn piles when internal temperatures drop below 130°F to maintain aerobic conditions and pathogen reduction, with active composting typically lasting 30-60 days followed by a 60-90 day curing period. - **Comprehensive recordkeeping is essential for operational management and regulatory compliance:** Document pile temperatures, turning dates, moisture levels, and feedstock volumes to support nutrient management plans and demonstrate adherence to environmental standards. - **Water management is a regulated component:** Divert clean water away from the pad and size runoff collection systems (ponds or vegetated treatment areas) to accommodate a 25-year, 24-hour rainfall event. --- Planning a feedlot manure composting facility requires careful attention to site selection, pad construction, water management, and composting methods. This guide covers the full planning process for beef cattle operations of all sizes, from site assessment through operational monitoring. It is written for feedlot owners, farm managers, and agricultural advisors who need practical design criteria and decision frameworks for building or upgrading a manure composting system. ## At a Glance - **Site selection matters more than any other decision.** Allow at least 100 feet of separation from water sources, property lines, and wells. Check local regulations before you pour concrete or lay gravel. - **A compost pad needs a firm, compacted base.** Use 6 to 12 inches of compacted clay or a geotextile membrane with 6 inches of gravel on top. The pad must slope 1 to 2 percent to direct runoff to a collection system. - **Plan for water control from day one.** Clean water should be diverted around the pad. Contaminated runoff must be captured in a pond or vegetated treatment area sized for your local 25-year, 24-hour rainfall event. - **The carbon to nitrogen ratio should be 25:1 to 30:1.** Feedlot manure is high in nitrogen. You will need a carbon source such as straw, corn stover, or wood shavings to balance it. - **Turn the pile when internal temperature drops below 130 degrees Fahrenheit.** Active composting takes 30 to 60 days. Curing takes another 60 to 90 days. - **Keep records of pile temperatures, turning dates, moisture levels, and feedstock volumes.** These records support your nutrient management plan and help you prove regulatory compliance. - **Call your extension agent before you build, not after.** Many states require permits for composting facilities that handle more than a threshold tonnage or that are located near sensitive waters. ## Why Compost Feedlot Manure Feedlot manure is a valuable resource, but raw manure creates management problems. It attracts flies, releases odors, and can carry pathogens and weed seeds. When spread fresh on cropland, nitrogen in the manure can volatilize into the air or leach into groundwater before crops can use it. Composting stabilizes the nutrients, reduces volume and weight, and produces a product that is easier to handle and more predictable in its nutrient release. Composting also reduces the risk of environmental violations. A well designed facility keeps manure and runoff contained, which protects nearby streams and wells. In many watersheds, regulators now expect livestock operations to have a nutrient management plan that accounts for all manure produced on site. A composting facility is a defensible part of that plan because it shows you are actively managing the material rather than stockpiling it. The composting process works because microorganisms break down organic matter in the presence of oxygen. As they work, the pile heats up. Properly managed piles reach internal temperatures of 130 to 160 degrees Fahrenheit. That heat kills most weed seeds and many pathogens. The end product is dark, crumbly, and earthy smelling. It can be spread on cropland, sold to gardeners, or used as bedding if it is dry enough. ## Site Selection and Layout Choose the site before you design the pad. The worst mistake you can make is building a compost facility in a location that floods, drains toward a well, or sits too close to a neighbor. Walk your property and look at drainage patterns during a heavy rain. Low spots that hold water for more than a few hours after a storm are poor candidates. ### Separation Distances Most states have minimum separation distances for composting facilities. These distances vary, but common requirements include: - 100 feet from any stream, lake, pond, or wetland - 100 feet from any well used for drinking water - 50 feet from property lines - 100 feet from any residence not on the property - 500 feet from schools, churches, or public buildings in some jurisdictions Your local conservation district or extension office can tell you the specific requirements for your county. Do not rely on a neighbor's memory of the rules. Get the current regulations in writing before you finalize your site plan. ### Slope and Drainage The pad should sit on ground that slopes 1 to 2 percent. That slope is enough to move water off the pad but not so steep that equipment feels unsafe. The pad itself should be graded to direct runoff into a collection channel. Do not let runoff flow directly off the pad into a ditch or waterway. Look uphill from your proposed site. If a field drains onto the pad location, you need an upslope diversion ditch or berm to keep clean water out. The goal is to keep the pad as dry as possible. Wet compost goes anaerobic, which means the oxygen supply drops and the pile starts to smell like rotten eggs instead of earthy soil. ### Access and Traffic You will move manure to the pad and compost off the pad with tractors, loaders, and spreaders. The access road needs to be wide enough for your largest equipment and firm enough to handle loaded trucks in wet weather. Gravel is the standard surface. Plan for a turnaround area so trucks do not have to back out onto a public road. Consider where the wind blows most often. If your prevailing wind carries odors toward a neighbor's house, you will get complaints no matter how well you manage the pile. A windbreak of trees or a berm on the downwind side can help, but the best solution is to site the facility as far from residences as practical. ## Compost Pad Design and Construction The pad is the foundation of your entire operation. A poorly built pad will crack, heave, and turn into mud within a few seasons. A well built pad will last 15 to 20 years with minimal maintenance. ### Pad Surface Options You have three main choices for the pad surface: compacted clay, concrete, or asphalt. Each has tradeoffs. **Compacted clay** is the least expensive option. It works well if you have clay soil on site that compacts to a low permeability. The pad should be 6 to 12 inches thick, compacted in lifts of 4 to 6 inches. The clay surface will rut under heavy equipment, so you may need to add gravel on top of the clay in high traffic areas. Clay pads also need periodic recompaction and reshaping. **Concrete** is the most durable surface. It handles heavy equipment without rutting, cleans up easily with a skid steer, and lasts decades. The downside is cost. A 100 by 200 foot pad with 6 inches of reinforced concrete can easily cost $50,000 to $100,000 or more depending on your location and site conditions. Concrete also cracks if the base underneath is not properly prepared. **Asphalt** is cheaper than concrete but less durable. It softens in hot weather and can be damaged by the teeth of loader buckets. If you choose asphalt, specify a heavy duty mix designed for industrial traffic. A common compromise is a compacted clay base with a geotextile fabric and 6 to 8 inches of crushed rock on top. The geotextile keeps the rock from punching into the clay. The rock provides a firm driving surface and allows some drainage. You will need to add rock periodically as it gets worked into the clay. ### Pad Dimensions Size the pad based on the volume of manure you produce and the length of time you plan to store compost on the pad. A useful planning number is that one 1,000 pound steer produces about 40 to 50 pounds of manure per day. That includes urine and bedding if you use any. Over a 180 day feeding period, one steer produces roughly 3.5 to 4.5 tons of raw manure. A 1,000 head feedlot produces about 4,000 tons of raw manure per feeding cycle. Composting reduces volume by 30 to 50 percent, so you will end up with roughly 2,500 to 3,000 tons of finished compost. Plan on storing finished compost for at least 6 months so you can apply it when crops need it. A good rule of thumb is to allow 100 to 150 square feet of pad area per 1,000 pounds of animal weight on feed. For a 1,000 head feedlot with an average animal weight of 1,000 pounds, that means 100,000 to 150,000 square feet of pad. That is roughly 2.5 to 3.5 acres. This allows room for active compost rows, curing piles, and equipment maneuvering. ### Pad Construction Steps Follow these steps when you build the pad: 1. Strip topsoil from the pad area and stockpile it for later use in landscaping or berms. 2. Grade the subgrade to the final slope of 1 to 2 percent. 3. Compact the subgrade with a sheepsfoot roller or vibratory compactor. Test the compaction with a soil probe or nuclear density gauge if available. 4. Install the geotextile fabric if you are using it. Overlap the seams by at least 12 inches. 5. Place and compact the clay or gravel surface in lifts. 6. Build a berm or curb around the pad perimeter to contain runoff and keep clean water out. 7. Construct the runoff collection channel and direct it to your storage pond or vegetated treatment area. 8. Install a sign at the facility entrance with the operation name and emergency contact information. ## Water Management Systems Water management is the most regulated part of a composting facility. Federal and state clean water rules require that you contain runoff from manure storage areas. The design of your water management system depends on your location, rainfall, and the size of your operation. ### Clean Water Diversion The first priority is keeping clean water away from the compost pad. Rain that falls on the pad becomes contaminated and must be captured. Rain that falls on the surrounding field does not. A diversion ditch or berm on the uphill side of the pad keeps field runoff from flowing across the pad. This reduces the volume of contaminated water you have to store and treat. ### Runoff Collection Water that falls on the pad flows to a collection channel and then to a storage pond or vegetated treatment area. The storage pond should be sized to hold the runoff from a 25 year, 24 hour rainfall event plus the runoff from normal operations between pumpouts. Your local Natural Resources Conservation Service office can provide the rainfall data for your county. The pond needs a liner if your soil is sandy or if groundwater is shallow. Compacted clay liners work in many areas. Synthetic liners are more expensive but provide better protection. The pond should have a minimum of 2 feet of freeboard above the design water level. ### Vegetated Treatment Areas Some states allow vegetated treatment areas instead of storage ponds. These are grassed strips that filter runoff and allow the water to infiltrate. They work best in areas with permeable soils and low rainfall. The treatment area must be sized based on the volume of runoff and the infiltration rate of the soil. A typical design uses 1 to 2 acres of vegetated treatment area per 100 head of feedlot capacity. ### Pumpout and Land Application The water in your storage pond is a fertilizer resource. It contains nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium that can be applied to cropland. Pump the pond out when it is about half full and apply the water to fields at agronomic rates. Do not pump the pond dry. Leaving some water in the bottom keeps the liner wet and prevents cracking. Time your pumpouts to avoid waterlogged soils. Applying liquid manure to saturated ground causes runoff and nutrient loss. Most producers pump in late summer or early fall after crops are harvested and before the ground freezes. ## Manure Handling and Feedstock Preparation The composting process starts with getting the right mix of materials. Feedlot manure is high in nitrogen and moisture. It needs a carbon source and often a bulking agent to create the right conditions for microbial activity. ### Carbon to Nitrogen Ratio Microorganisms need carbon for energy and nitrogen for [protein synthesis](/blog/guides/protein-synthesis-a-step-by-step-guide-to-transcription-and-translation). The ideal ratio is about 25 to 30 parts carbon to 1 part nitrogen. Fresh feedlot manure typically has a ratio of 15:1 to 20:1. That means you need to add carbon. Good carbon sources include: - Wheat straw, 80:1 carbon to nitrogen ratio - Corn stover, 60:1 to 80:1 - Wood shavings or sawdust, 200:1 to 500:1 - Leaves, 40:1 to 80:1 - Old hay or silage that is too low quality for feed A rule of thumb is to mix 2 to 3 parts manure with 1 part carbon source by volume. The exact amount depends on the moisture content of the manure and the carbon source. Wet manure needs more carbon. Dry manure needs less. ### Moisture Content The compost pile should be 50 to 60 percent moisture. That is about as wet as a wrung out sponge. If you squeeze a handful of compost, a few drops of water should come out but the material should not drip. Feedlot manure from a dry lot is often 40 to 50 percent moisture. It may need water added during the composting process. Manure from a wet lot or from a facility that uses a lot of water for cleaning may be 70 percent moisture or higher. That material needs extra carbon and more frequent turning to dry out. ### Particle Size Microorganisms work on the surface of particles. Smaller particles break down faster because they have more surface area per unit of volume. But particles that are too small pack together and exclude oxygen. The ideal particle size for composting is 1 to 3 inches. Manure from the feedlot often contains large chunks of compacted manure and bedding. Run it through a manure spreader or a tub grinder before you build the pile. This breaks up the chunks and mixes the materials evenly. ### Feedstock Testing Have your manure tested for nutrient content before you design your compost mix. A basic manure test costs $20 to $50 and gives you the nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and moisture content. Send samples to a certified laboratory. Your extension office can recommend a lab and help you interpret the results. Test the carbon source too. Straw and stover vary in their carbon content depending on growing conditions and how they were stored. If you are buying carbon sources, the test results help you negotiate a fair price based on the actual nutrient value. ## Composting Methods You have several options for how to manage the composting process. The right method depends on your scale, equipment, and labor availability. ### Windrow Composting Windrow composting is the most common method for feedlots. You build long triangular or trapezoidal piles that are 4 to 8 feet high and 10 to 16 feet wide at the base. The piles are turned with a windrow turner, a tractor mounted attachment, or a front end loader. Windrows are turned every 3 to 7 days during the active composting phase. Each turn mixes the material, breaks up clumps, and introduces oxygen. The turning schedule depends on the temperature. When the internal temperature drops below 130 degrees Fahrenheit, it is time to turn. A windrow turner is the most efficient tool for this job. These machines straddle the windrow and fluff the material as they move down the row. They cost $30,000 to $100,000 for a new unit. Many custom operators and equipment dealers offer used turners at lower prices. If you cannot justify a dedicated turner, a front end loader can do the job, but it takes longer and does not mix as thoroughly. ### Aerated Static Pile In an aerated static pile system, the compost sits on a network of perforated pipes. A blower forces air through the pile to supply oxygen. The piles are not turned during the active phase. This method requires less equipment and labor but more upfront investment in the aeration system. The aeration pipes are laid on a bed of wood chips or crushed rock. The compost is piled on top to a height of 6 to 8 feet. A layer of finished compost or wood chips on top of the pile acts as insulation and odor filter. Blowers run on a timer or in response to temperature sensors. Aerated static piles produce compost in 3 to 6 weeks, which is faster than windrows. They also produce fewer odors because the air is pulled through the pile and through a biofilter. The downside is the capital cost of the blowers, pipes, and controls. This method works best for operations that compost more than 5,000 tons per year. ### In Vessel Composting In vessel composting uses a rotating drum, an agitated bed, or a concrete bunker with forced aeration. The material is completely enclosed, which gives you the most control over temperature, moisture, and oxygen. It also produces the least odor. In vessel systems are expensive. A small drum composter costs $100,000 or more. They are usually only justified for very large feedlots, commercial composters, or operations that face strict odor regulations. Most feedlots do not need this level of technology. ### Passive Composting Passive composting is the simplest method. You build a pile and leave it alone for 6 to 12 months. The pile composts slowly because oxygen only reaches the outer layer. The interior goes anaerobic and develops a strong odor. Passive composting is not recommended for feedlot manure. The pile will attract flies, produce odors, and take too long to stabilize. It also does not reach high enough temperatures to kill weed seeds and pathogens reliably. If you are going to compost, do it actively. ## Turning and Aeration Turning is the heart of the composting process. It does three things: it introduces oxygen, it mixes the material so all parts spend time in the hot center, and it breaks up clumps that have formed. ### When to Turn Turn the pile when the internal temperature drops below 130 degrees Fahrenheit. In the first few weeks, this may mean turning every 2 to 3 days. As the compost stabilizes, the temperature drops more slowly and you can turn less often. After 4 to 6 weeks, many operators turn once a week. Do not turn the pile when it is too wet. If the material sticks to your loader bucket and forms balls, it needs to dry out first. Turning wet compost compacts it and pushes out the air. Wait a few dry days or mix in additional dry carbon material before turning. ### How to Turn If you use a windrow turner, the process is straightforward. Drive the turner down the row at a steady speed. The machine lifts the material, fluffs it, and deposits it in a new windrow behind the machine. If you use a front end loader, work in small sections. Pick up a bucket of material, lift it high, and drop it to break up clumps. Then push the material back into a windrow shape. This method does not mix as well as a turner, so you may need to make two passes in opposite directions. ### Temperature Monitoring You need a compost thermometer with a 3 to 4 foot probe. Digital thermometers with a thermocouple probe are more accurate and easier to read than dial thermometers. Take readings at several locations in the pile, including the center and the edges. Record the readings in a logbook or on a spreadsheet. The pile should heat up within 3 to 5 days of building. If it does not, the mix is wrong. The most common problems are too much moisture, too little nitrogen, or a pile that is too small to hold heat. A pile smaller than 4 feet high and 8 feet wide will not retain enough heat to compost properly. ## Odor Control Odor is the most common complaint from neighbors of composting facilities. The key to odor control is keeping the compost aerobic. Anaerobic conditions produce hydrogen sulfide, ammonia, and volatile organic acids that smell terrible. ### Management Practices That Reduce Odor - Build the pile with the correct carbon to nitrogen ratio. Too much nitrogen produces ammonia odors. - Keep the moisture below 60 percent. Wet piles go anaerobic. - Turn the pile only when it needs it. Turning a pile that is not hot can release odors without providing any benefit. - Cover the pile with a 6 inch layer of finished compost or wood chips. This acts as a biofilter that captures odors. - Do not add fresh manure to an active compost pile. Start a new pile instead. ### Biofilters A biofilter is a bed of wood chips, compost, or soil that odors pass through. The microorganisms in the biofilter break down the odor causing compounds. Biofilters are essential for aerated static pile systems. They can also be used with windrows by placing a layer of finished compost over the pile. The biofilter needs to stay moist but not saturated. It also needs to be porous enough for air to flow through. A layer of 12 to 18 inches of wood chips works well. Replace or turn the biofilter material every 6 to 12 months as it breaks down. ### Responding to Complaints If a neighbor complains about odor, take it seriously. Visit the neighbor, apologize, and explain what you are doing to fix the problem. Keep a log of all complaints and your response. This documentation is valuable if the complaint escalates to a regulatory agency. The most common cause of odor problems is turning a pile that is not ready. If you get complaints after a turn, adjust your schedule. Turn in the morning when the air is stable and odors are less likely to travel. Avoid turning on hot, humid days when odors linger. ## Pathogen Reduction and [Food Safety](/knowledge/bacteria/livestock-bacteria/cooking-chicken-bacteria-prevention) Composting kills pathogens if the pile reaches and maintains the right temperatures. The USDA National Organic Program requires that compost used on organic crops reach a minimum of 131 degrees Fahrenheit for 15 days, with temperatures above 150 degrees Fahrenheit for at least 4 of those days. These standards are a good target for any composting operation. ### Temperature Requirements Most pathogens, including E. coli and Salmonella, are killed when the pile reaches 131 degrees Fahrenheit for several days. The center of a well managed pile should reach 140 to 160 degrees Fahrenheit within the first week. The outer edges of the pile stay cooler, which is why turning is important. Turning brings the cooler outer material into the hot center. ### Weed Seed Viability Most weed seeds are killed by the same temperatures that kill pathogens. The heat also breaks down seed coats, making any surviving seeds less viable. If you are composting manure from cattle that grazed on weedy pasture, extend the active composting period to 60 days to ensure good seed kill. ### Testing Finished Compost If you plan to sell compost or use it on crops that will be eaten raw, test the finished product for pathogens. A laboratory test for E. coli and Salmonella costs $50 to $150. Your extension office can recommend a lab that handles compost testing. ## Facility Management and Recordkeeping A composting facility needs daily attention and careful records. The records serve two purposes: they help you manage the process, and they prove compliance if a regulator asks. ### Daily Tasks - Check pile temperatures and record them in your log. - Check moisture levels. Add water if the pile is below 50 percent moisture. - Inspect the runoff collection system for blockages or leaks. - Look for signs of odors, flies, or vermin. - Check the weather forecast and plan turning around rain events. ### Weekly Tasks - Turn piles that need it. - Inspect the pad surface for ruts or damage. - Check the storage pond level and pump if needed. - Review your temperature records to identify piles that are not heating properly. ### Recordkeeping Requirements Keep the following records for at least 3 years: - Date each pile was built - Volume and source of manure added - Volume and type of carbon source added - Moisture content at pile construction - Temperature readings with dates - Turning dates - Water added - Date the pile was removed from active composting - Date and location of compost application - Results of any laboratory tests A simple spreadsheet works well for recordkeeping. Several land grant universities offer free compost recordkeeping templates. Your extension agent can point you to these resources. ## Nutrient Management and Compost Use The finished compost is a valuable soil amendment. It adds organic matter to the soil, improves water holding capacity, and provides a slow release source of nutrients. Understanding the nutrient content of your compost helps you apply it at the right rate. ### Compost Nutrient Content Finished compost typically contains 1 to 2 percent nitrogen, 0.5 to 1 percent phosphorus, and 1 to 2 percent potassium. The exact values depend on the starting materials and the composting process. Have each batch tested before land application. About 30 to 50 percent of the nitrogen in compost is available to crops in the first year. The rest is tied up in organic matter and releases slowly over several years. This means compost is best used as a soil builder rather than a primary nitrogen source. ### Application Rates Apply compost based on the phosphorus needs of your crop or the nitrogen needs, whichever is more limiting. Phosphorus builds up in soil over time and can become an environmental problem if it runs off into surface water. A soil test tells you the current phosphorus level and the recommended application rate. Typical application rates range from 5 to 20 tons per acre depending on the crop and soil conditions. Compost can be applied with a manure spreader. Incorporate it into the soil within 24 hours of application to reduce ammonia losses and odor. ### Compost as Bedding Dry compost can be used as bedding for cattle. It is absorbent, comfortable, and has a lower pathogen load than raw manure. The compost must be thoroughly dried to below 30 percent moisture before use. Using compost as bedding closes the loop on your nutrient cycle and reduces the amount of bedding you need to purchase. ## Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them ### Building the Pad in the Wrong Location The most expensive mistake is building the pad and then discovering it floods, drains poorly, or is too close to a neighbor. Walk the site in wet weather. Check the 100 year floodplain maps. Talk to your local planning office before you break ground. ### Skipping the Carbon Source Some operators think they can compost pure manure without adding carbon. The result is a wet, smelly, anaerobic mess. Manure needs carbon to balance the nitrogen and to provide structure for air flow. Plan your carbon supply before you build your first pile. ### Turning Too Often or Not Often Enough Turning too often cools the pile and slows the process. Not turning enough lets the pile go anaerobic. The temperature is your guide. Turn when the temperature drops below 130 degrees Fahrenheit, not on a fixed schedule. ### Ignoring the Runoff A compost pad without a runoff collection system is an environmental violation waiting to happen. The first heavy rain will wash nutrients and organic matter into the nearest waterway. Build the water management system as part of the pad, not as an afterthought. ### Using the Compost Too Soon Compost that has not finished curing can tie up nitrogen in the soil as microorganisms continue to break down organic matter. This nitrogen drawdown starves your crop. Wait until the compost has gone through the full curing period before land application. Finished compost has a dark, crumbly texture and an earthy smell. ## Decision Thresholds for Facility Upgrades How do you know when it is time to upgrade your composting system? These thresholds help you decide. ### When to Add a Windrow Turner If you are turning more than 500 tons of compost per year with a front end loader, a windrow turner will pay for itself in labor savings and improved compost quality. A turner also produces a more uniform product because it mixes more thoroughly. ### When to Move to Aerated Static Piles If you are composting more than 5,000 tons per year, or if odor complaints are a recurring problem, consider an aerated static pile system. The capital cost is higher, but the operating cost is lower because you do not need to turn the piles as often. ### When to Enlarge the Pad If your pad is consistently full and you are stacking compost higher than 8 feet, you need more space. Cramped conditions lead to poor aeration, wet piles, and odor problems. Add pad space before you reach the limit, not after. ### When to Hire a Consultant If you are planning a new facility or a major expansion, the cost of a professional engineer or agricultural consultant is money well spent. They can help you navigate permits, design the water management system, and avoid costly mistakes. Most states require a professional engineer to stamp the plans for a runoff storage pond. ## Monitoring and Troubleshooting Even a well designed facility will have problems from time to time. The key is to catch problems early and fix them before they become serious. ### The Pile Does Not Heat Up If the pile does not reach 130 degrees Fahrenheit within 5 days, check the moisture. If it is too dry, add water and turn. If it is too wet, add dry carbon and turn. If the pile is smaller than 4 feet high, rebuild it larger. ### The Pile Smells Like Ammonia Ammonia odor means too much nitrogen. Add more carbon source and turn the pile. The carbon will absorb the excess nitrogen. ### The Pile Smells Like Rotten Eggs Hydrogen sulfide odor means the pile is anaerobic. This happens when the pile is too wet or too compacted. Turn the pile to introduce oxygen. Add dry carbon if the pile is soggy. ### Flies Are Breeding in the Pile Flies breed in fresh manure that is exposed on the surface of the pile. Turn the pile to bury the fresh material. Keep a 6 inch layer of finished compost over the pile. Do not add fresh manure to an active pile. ### The Pad Is Sinking or Cracking Sinking means the base was not compacted properly. Cracking means the surface is too thin or the base is unstable. Fix the problem by excavating the affected area, recompacting the base, and replacing the surface. This is a major repair, so get professional advice before you start. ## Regulatory Compliance and Permits Composting facilities are regulated by state and federal agencies. The rules depend on your location, the size of your operation, and whether you sell compost or use it on your own land. ### Federal Requirements The Clean Water Act regulates discharges from concentrated animal feeding operations. If your feedlot is a CAFO, your composting facility is part of the operation and must be included in your nutrient management plan. The Environmental Protection Agency delegates most CAFO permitting to the states. ### State Requirements Most states require a permit for composting facilities that handle more than a certain tonnage. The threshold varies from 100 to 10,000 tons per year. Some states exempt facilities that use compost only on their own land. Your state department of agriculture or environmental protection agency can tell you what applies to your operation. ### Local Zoning Check with your county planning office about zoning and conditional use permits. Some counties restrict composting facilities to agricultural zones. Others require a public hearing before you build. Start the permitting process early. It can take 6 to 12 months from application to approval. ### Working with Your Extension Agent Your county extension agent is your best resource for regulatory questions. They know the local rules, they can connect you with the right agencies, and they can help you interpret the requirements. Call them before you design the facility, not after you have built it. ## Economic Considerations Composting costs money, but it also creates value. Understanding the economics helps you make smart decisions about facility design and management. ### Capital Costs The major capital costs are the pad, the water management system, and the equipment. A basic pad with clay surface and a runoff pond might cost $20,000 to $50,000 for a small operation. A large facility with concrete pad, aerated static piles, and a lined pond can cost $500,000 or more. ### Operating Costs The main operating costs are labor, fuel, and carbon sources. Turning 1,000 tons of compost takes about 20 to 30 hours of labor per year. Fuel costs depend on how far you haul the manure and carbon. Carbon sources cost $10 to $40 per ton depending on what you use and where you get it. ### Revenue from Compost Sales Finished compost sells for $10 to $40 per cubic yard at retail. Wholesale prices to landscapers and garden centers are lower, typically $5 to $15 per cubic yard. If you market compost as a premium organic soil amendment, you can command higher prices. ### Cost Savings from Compost Use Even if you do not sell compost, using it on your own land has value. Compost improves soil structure, increases water holding capacity, and provides nutrients. One ton of compost with 1.5 percent nitrogen contains 30 pounds of nitrogen, worth about $15 to $20 at current fertilizer prices. The phosphorus and potassium add another $10 to $15 of value. ## Case Examples ### Small Feedlot, 500 Head A 500 head feedlot produces about 2,000 tons of manure per year. A pad of 50,000 square feet, about 1.2 acres, is adequate. The operator uses a front end loader for turning and buys straw from a neighboring farm for the carbon source. Total capital cost is about $30,000 for the pad and runoff pond. Operating costs are about $5 per ton of compost produced. ### Medium Feedlot, 2,500 Head A 2,500 head feedlot produces about 10,000 tons of manure per year. The operator built a 3 acre pad with a clay base and gravel surface. They purchased a used windrow turner for $25,000. They mix the manure with corn stover from their own fields. The facility produces about 6,000 tons of finished compost per year. Half is applied to their own cropland and half is sold to local farmers and landscapers. ### Large Feedlot, 10,000 Head A 10,000 head feedlot produces about 40,000 tons of manure per year. The operator built a 10 acre pad with concrete surface and an aerated static pile system. The capital cost was $1.5 million. The facility employs one full time operator and processes all the manure from the feedlot. Finished compost is sold in bulk to agricultural and horticultural customers across the region. ## Frequently Asked Questions ### How long does it take to compost feedlot manure? Active composting takes 30 to 60 days with regular turning. After that, the compost needs a curing period of 60 to 90 days. Total time from building the pile to finished compost is typically 90 to 150 days. The exact time depends on the season, the mix of materials, and how often you turn the pile. Composting is faster in warm weather and slower in cold weather. ### Can I compost feedlot manure without adding a carbon source? You can, but the results will be poor. Manure alone is too dense and too wet to compost aerobically. It will go anaerobic and produce strong odors. Adding straw, stover, or wood shavings at a rate of 2 to 3 parts manure to 1 part carbon source by volume creates the air spaces and carbon to nitrogen balance that microorganisms need. ### What is the best carbon source for composting cattle manure? Wheat straw and corn stover are the most common choices because they are often available on farms. Both have a high carbon to nitrogen ratio and provide good structure. Wood shavings and sawdust work well but break down more slowly. Old hay works if it is not too moldy. The best choice is whatever is cheapest and most available in your area. ### How do I know when the compost is finished? Finished compost is dark brown or black, crumbly, and has an earthy smell. The internal temperature stays near ambient temperature and does not heat up again after turning. The volume has decreased by 30 to 50 percent from the original pile. You can also do a simple test: put a handful of compost in a sealed plastic bag for 3 days. If it smells sour or ammonia like when you open the bag, it needs more curing. ### Do I need a permit to compost feedlot manure? Most states require a permit or registration for composting facilities, but the thresholds vary widely. Some states exempt small facilities that use compost only on their own land. Others require a permit for any facility that accepts off farm materials. Check with your state department of agriculture and your county planning office before you build. ### How much pad space do I need for a 1,000 head feedlot? Plan on 100 to 150 square feet of pad area per 1,000 pounds of animal weight on feed. For a 1,000 head feedlot with an average weight of 1,000 pounds, that is 100,000 to 150,000 square feet, or about 2.5 to 3.5 acres. This includes room for active piles, curing piles, and equipment access. ### What do I do with the runoff from the compost pad? Runoff from the compost pad must be captured and stored. A storage pond or a vegetated treatment area are the two main options. The collected water is a liquid fertilizer that can be pumped out and applied to cropland at agronomic rates. Do not let runoff flow directly off the pad into a ditch or waterway. ### Can I use finished compost as cattle bedding? Yes, dried compost makes good cattle bedding. It is absorbent, comfortable, and has a lower pathogen load than raw manure. The compost must be dried to below 30 percent moisture before use. Some producers use compost bedding exclusively and have reduced their purchased bedding costs significantly. ## When to Call a Professional You should call an extension agent or agricultural consultant in these situations: - You are planning a new composting facility and need help with site selection and design. - You are expanding an existing facility and need to upgrade the pad or water management system. - Your compost piles are not heating up and you cannot figure out why. - You are receiving odor complaints from neighbors and your management changes are not resolving the problem. - You are applying for a permit and need help with the application. - You need a nutrient management plan that includes your composting operation. - You are considering selling compost and need help with marketing and product testing. If you suspect that compost or runoff has contaminated a water supply, contact your state environmental protection agency immediately. Do not wait to see if the problem resolves on its own. ## Related Farming Guides This article is part of a series on beef cattle operations and manure management. Additional guides on [feedlot design](/knowledge/animal-farming/farm-management/beef-cattle-feedlot-design-pen-layout-manure), manure application rates, nutrient management planning, and cattle health protocols are available in the farming library. Check back for new articles on related topics. ## Related Clinical & Scientific Guides * [Cattle Head Gate Selection and Adjustment](/knowledge/animal-farming/beef-cattle/cattle-head-gate-selection-and-adjustment) * [Beef Cattle Handling Facility Flow](/knowledge/animal-farming/beef-cattle/beef-cattle-handling-facility-flow) * [Beef Cattle Maternity Pen Design: Comfort and Monitoring](/knowledge/animal-farming/beef-cattle/beef-cattle-maternity-pen-design-comfort-monitoring) ## References - Beef Cattle Research Council: https://www.beefresearch.ca/ - USDA APHIS Cattle Health: https://www.aphis.usda.gov/livestock-poultry-disease/cattle - WOAH Terrestrial Animal Health Code: https://www.woah.org/en/what-we-do/standards/codes-and-manuals/terrestrial-code-online-access/ - FAO Animal Production and Health: https://www.fao.org/animal-production/en/ - WOAH (World Organisation for Animal Health): https://www.woah.org/en/home/ > This article is educational and is not a substitute for veterinary diagnosis, treatment, public-health guidance, or regulatory reporting.