# Beef Cattle Windbreak Design: Placement and Materials ## Key Takeaways - Wind stress significantly increases beef cattle energy requirements by up to 30%, impacting weight gain, pregnancy, and milk production; a 20 mph wind can reduce the effective temperature by 20-30 degrees Fahrenheit. - Optimal windbreak placement is 50 to 150 feet downwind of the protected area, with the protected zone extending 10 to 20 times the windbreak's height, and a semipermeable barrier allowing 40-60% wind passage is superior to a solid structure. - Windbreaks are critical for reducing calf mortality by preventing hypothermia in newborns and mitigating respiratory disease by decreasing cold-induced immune suppression in cattle. - Material selection involves a trade-off between immediate effectiveness and long-term cost: living windbreaks (trees) are cost-effective long-term but require years to establish, while manufactured fences (slatted wood, fabric) offer immediate protection. - Effective windbreak design necessitates considering snow drift management, with placement at least 100 feet upwind of critical infrastructure like feed bunks and water sources to prevent burial. - Regular monitoring and maintenance, including fall and post-storm inspections, are crucial for ensuring windbreak efficacy, with signs of failure including cattle orienting away from the windbreak or increased feed consumption. --- Winter wind is one of the most underestimated stressors in beef cattle operations. A cow that is wet, exposed, and fighting a 20 mile per hour wind can burn up to 30 percent more energy just to stay warm, energy that otherwise goes into weight gain, pregnancy maintenance, or milk production. This article explains how to design a windbreak for cattle pasture that actually works, where to place it, what materials to use, and how to maintain it over time. It is written for beef producers, farm managers, and agricultural students who are planning a new [cattle windbreak](/knowledge/animal-farming/beef-cattle/cattle-windbreak-design-for-winter-shelter) or improving an existing one. A well designed windbreak for cattle pasture is not just a nice thing to have. It is a production tool that pays for itself in reduced feed costs, healthier calves, and fewer weather related health problems. The information here covers the science of wind and cold stress, step by step placement guidance, material comparisons, common design mistakes, and how to monitor whether your windbreak is doing its job. ## At a Glance - Place windbreaks 50 to 150 feet downwind of the area you want to protect, not directly against it. - The ideal windbreak blocks wind over a distance of 10 to 20 times its height. - A single row of dense trees is less effective than a semipermeable barrier that lets 40 to 60 percent of the wind through. - The best windbreak for cattle pasture uses a combination of a solid windbreak for immediate shelter and a semipermeable barrier for a larger protected zone. - Face the windbreak to the north or northwest, the direction of prevailing winter winds in most of North America. - Do not put the windbreak so close to a feedlot or feeding area that snow drifts bury the feed. - Trees are the cheapest long term option but take years to establish. Fabric and slatted fences work immediately. - A windbreak should be at least 100 feet long for a small herd and longer for larger operations. - Check your windbreak every fall before the first storm and again after major snow events. - A wet cow is more at risk than a dry cow in cold weather. Wind protection matters most when precipitation is involved. ## Why Windbreaks Matter for Beef Cattle Cattle are surprisingly tolerant of cold temperatures when they are dry, well fed, and protected from wind. The lower critical temperature for beef cattle is around 32 degrees Fahrenheit for cows with a dry winter coat, but wind changes that number dramatically. A 20 mile per hour wind effectively drops the temperature that a cow feels by 20 to 30 degrees. A cow that is fine at 20 degrees with no wind is struggling at 20 degrees with a strong wind. This matters for several production reasons. First, cold stressed cattle eat more. Research from land grant universities consistently shows that for every degree below the lower critical temperature, a cow's energy requirement increases by about 1 percent. Over a 60 day winter feeding period, that adds up to a significant amount of hay or grain. A windbreak reduces that cold stress and reduces the amount of feed you need to buy. Second, cold stress affects calf health. Newborn calves are especially vulnerable to hypothermia. A calf born into a windy, wet environment has a much higher chance of dying or becoming sick within the first 48 hours of life. Wind protection around calving areas is one of the most effective ways to reduce calf mortality. Third, windbreaks reduce the incidence of respiratory disease. Cattle that are stressed by cold wind have suppressed immune function. Pneumonia and other respiratory infections spike during periods of extreme weather. A windbreak that keeps cattle out of the wind reduces this stress and lowers the risk of disease outbreaks. Fourth, windbreaks improve feed efficiency even when the temperature is not extreme. Cattle that are comfortable spend more time at the bunk or grazing and less time standing with their backs to the wind. This translates to better average daily gain in growing cattle and better body condition scores in breeding stock. Finally, windbreaks provide a place for cattle to get out of precipitation. A wet coat loses its insulating value almost entirely. A cow with a wet coat is effectively dealing with temperatures 20 to 30 degrees colder than the air temperature. A windbreak that keeps snow and rain off the cattle is worth more than one that only blocks wind. ## Understanding Wind and Cold Stress in Cattle To design an effective windbreak for cattle pasture, you need to understand how wind moves across open land and how cattle respond to it. Wind does not blow in a straight line. It swirls, dips, and accelerates around obstacles. When it hits a solid object like a barn wall or a dense row of trees, it piles up on the windward side and then spills over the top, creating a turbulent zone on the leeward side. That turbulence can actually make conditions worse for cattle standing right behind the barrier. This is why a semipermeable windbreak is better than a solid one. A windbreak that lets 40 to 60 percent of the wind pass through creates a much larger protected zone than a solid barrier. The wind that passes through slows down and mixes with the air on the leeward side, creating a gentle, extended zone of reduced wind speed. A solid barrier creates a small zone of very calm air immediately behind it, but the wind picks up again quickly beyond that zone and often with added turbulence. The size of the protected zone depends on the height of the windbreak. As a general rule, a windbreak protects an area downwind that is 10 to 20 times its height. A 10 foot tall fence protects an area 100 to 200 feet downwind. A 30 foot tall row of trees protects an area 300 to 600 feet downwind. The width of the protected zone is roughly the same as the length of the windbreak itself, with some variation at the ends. Cattle also change their behavior in response to wind. On a calm day, cattle spread out across a pasture or feedlot. When the wind picks up, they cluster together and seek shelter. If no shelter is available, they will stand with their hindquarters to the wind, a posture that reduces heat loss but also reduces their ability to see and monitor their surroundings. Cattle that are constantly exposed to wind are more restless, more likely to bunch up, and more likely to injure each other in the crowd. The orientation of the windbreak matters as much as its placement. In most of North America, the prevailing winter winds come from the north and northwest. A windbreak should be oriented perpendicular to the prevailing wind direction, meaning it should run east to west if the wind comes from the north. If your location has different prevailing winds, check local weather data before you build. ## Step by Step Guide to Windbreak Placement ### Step 1: Map Your Operation Start by drawing a simple map of your pasture, feedlot, or calving area. Mark the locations of existing structures, water sources, feeding areas, gates, and travel lanes. Identify the areas where cattle spend the most time in winter. These are the areas you need to protect. Cattle tend to gather near water, feed, and shelter. If you already have a natural windbreak like a tree line or a hill, note where the cattle actually use it. Their behavior is a good clue about where a windbreak will be most effective. ### Step 2: Determine Prevailing Winter Wind Direction Check historical weather data for your area or talk to neighbors who have lived there for many years. The prevailing winter wind direction is not always the same as the prevailing annual wind direction. In the northern plains, for example, winter winds are predominantly from the northwest. In some mountain valleys, winds follow the orientation of the valley rather than the regional pattern. You can also observe the way snow drifts on your property. Snow drifts form on the leeward side of obstacles, so the direction of the drift tells you which way the wind blows. If you have an existing fence line or building, look at which side the snow piles up on. ### Step 3: Choose the Protected Area Decide what you are protecting. A windbreak for a calving pasture is placed differently than a windbreak for a feedlot. Calving areas need the most protection because newborn calves are so vulnerable. Feedlots need protection around the feed bunk and the resting area. Pasture windbreaks need to be placed so that cattle can access them without walking too far from water or feed. A good rule is to place the windbreak so that the protected zone covers the area where cattle spend at least 60 percent of their time in winter. For a feedlot, that means placing the windbreak upwind of the pens, not between the pens and the feed bunk. For a calving pasture, place the windbreak so that cows can calve within the protected zone but still have access to water. ### Step 4: Set the Distance The distance between the windbreak and the protected area is critical. If the windbreak is too close, the protected zone is small and turbulent. If it is too far away, the wind has time to speed back up before it reaches the cattle. The ideal distance from the windbreak to the protected area is 50 to 150 feet. This places the cattle within the zone of maximum wind reduction, which is typically 2 to 5 times the height of the windbreak downwind. For a 10 foot tall fence, the best protection is 20 to 50 feet downwind. For a 30 foot tree row, the best protection is 60 to 150 feet downwind. Do not place the windbreak directly against a fence line or building that cattle use. Leave a gap so that cattle can walk behind the windbreak if they want to. This also prevents snow from drifting against the windbreak and burying it. ### Step 5: Determine the Length The windbreak should be longer than the area you are protecting. Wind wraps around the ends of a windbreak, so the protected zone narrows at the edges. A windbreak that is the same length as the protected area will only provide full protection in the middle. As a general guide, the windbreak should be at least 1.5 times the length of the protected area. For a small pasture with 20 cows, a windbreak of 100 to 150 feet is adequate. For a feedlot with 200 head, plan on 300 to 500 feet of windbreak. If you cannot build a single windbreak that long, build multiple shorter windbreaks staggered so that their protected zones overlap. ### Step 6: Consider Snow Drift Management A windbreak will cause snow to drift on its leeward side. This is actually a benefit if you want snow to accumulate in a specific area, but it is a problem if the drift covers your feed bunk, water tank, or gate. Plan for snow management when you choose the location. Place the windbreak at least 100 feet upwind of any structure you need to access in winter. This puts the deepest part of the snow drift between the windbreak and the structure, not on top of it. If you are using a fence style windbreak, you can also leave gaps in the fence to allow some snow to blow through and reduce the size of the drift. ### Step 7: Mark and Prepare the Site Once you have chosen the location, mark the line of the windbreak with stakes. Clear any vegetation that will interfere with construction. If you are planting trees, prepare the soil and plan for weed control. If you are building a fence, make sure you have the right posts and materials on hand. For a tree windbreak, you should also consider the soil drainage. Most windbreak tree species do not tolerate wet feet. If your site is poorly drained, you may need to install drainage or choose species that tolerate wet conditions. ## Windbreak Materials for Livestock There are three main categories of windbreak materials for livestock: living windbreaks, manufactured fences, and earthen or structural barriers. Each has advantages and disadvantages, and many operations use a combination. ### Living Windbreaks Trees and shrubs are the traditional windbreak for cattle pasture. They are the least expensive option over the long term, they provide habitat for wildlife, and they can last for decades with minimal maintenance. The main disadvantage is that they take years to establish. A newly planted tree row provides almost no wind protection for the first 5 to 10 years, and full protection may take 15 to 20 years. For a living windbreak, you need a mix of species. A single row of trees is less effective than a multi row planting. The standard design is a combination of evergreen trees for year round protection and deciduous trees or shrubs for density. Evergreens like spruce, pine, and cedar provide winter wind protection because they keep their needles. Deciduous trees like cottonwood and willow provide summer shade but are bare in winter, so they are less useful for winter wind protection. The ideal living windbreak has 3 to 5 rows. The upwind row should be shrubs or low growing evergreens that trap snow near the ground. The middle rows should be tall evergreens that provide the main wind barrier. The downwind row can be deciduous trees or additional evergreens. The total width of the windbreak should be 30 to 50 feet for a multi row planting. Tree spacing depends on the species. Small evergreens like juniper can be planted 6 to 8 feet apart. Large evergreens like spruce should be 10 to 12 feet apart. Deciduous trees can be 8 to 10 feet apart. Rows should be 10 to 15 feet apart. The main maintenance tasks for a living windbreak are weed control, watering during establishment, and pruning. Young trees need regular watering for the first 2 to 3 years. Weed control is critical because grasses and weeds compete with young trees for water and nutrients. A mulch layer or a fabric weed barrier around each tree can reduce this competition. Living windbreaks also need protection from cattle. Cattle will rub against young trees, break branches, and eat the foliage. You must fence the windbreak off from the cattle until the trees are large enough to withstand their attention. This means the windbreak occupies land that cattle cannot use for several years. ### Manufactured Windbreak Fences Manufactured windbreak fences are the best option when you need immediate protection. They are available in several styles, including slatted wood fences, metal mesh, and geotextile fabric. These fences are more expensive up front than trees, but they work from the day they are installed. Slatted wood fences are a common choice. They consist of vertical or horizontal slats mounted on posts, with gaps between the slats that allow 40 to 60 percent of the wind to pass through. The gaps are what make them effective. A solid wood fence is actually a poor windbreak because it creates turbulence and a small protected zone. The slats can be made from rough sawn lumber, recycled plastic lumber, or metal. Rough sawn lumber is the least expensive but will need replacement over time. Recycled plastic lumber lasts longer and does not rot, but it is more expensive. Metal slats are durable but can be noisy in high winds and may conduct cold. Geotextile fabric windbreaks are another popular option. These are large sheets of woven or nonwoven fabric mounted on posts or cable systems. The fabric is semipermeable, allowing some wind to pass through while blocking the majority. Geotextile windbreaks are lightweight, easy to install, and can be taken down and moved if needed. They are commonly used around feedlots and calving areas. The main disadvantage of fabric windbreaks is that they can tear in high winds. Use heavy duty fabric rated for agricultural use and secure it properly to the posts. Check the fabric regularly for tears and repair them promptly. Metal mesh windbreaks, sometimes called snow fences, are made from horizontal or vertical slats of metal or plastic mounted on posts. They are very durable and require little maintenance. The main disadvantage is that they can be expensive and they are not as effective as slatted wood or fabric at reducing wind speed over a large area. ### Snow Fence for Cattle A snow fence for cattle is a specific type of manufactured windbreak designed to control snow drift. It is made from slatted wood or plastic panels mounted on posts, with gaps that allow wind to pass through. The snow fence slows the wind enough that snow drops out of the air and accumulates on the leeward side. A snow fence for cattle serves two purposes. It provides wind protection for the cattle and it controls where snow accumulates. If you place the snow fence upwind of a feedlot or calving area, the snow will drift behind the fence rather than over your working area. Snow fences are available in prefabricated panels or as rolls of slatted material that you attach to posts. They are relatively inexpensive and easy to install. The main maintenance task is checking the posts after heavy snow events and resetting any that have been pushed over by frost heave or snow load. ### Earthen and Structural Barriers Earthen barriers like hills and berms can provide wind protection, but they are rarely practical to construct for a cattle operation. A berm tall enough to protect a meaningful area would require significant earthmoving and would take up a lot of land. Natural hills and ridges can be used to your advantage if they are in the right location, but you cannot move them. Buildings and sheds can serve as windbreaks, but they have limitations. A barn or shed provides excellent protection immediately behind it, but the protected zone is small and turbulent. Buildings also block snow in ways that can create massive drifts. If you use a building as a windbreak, place it so that the drift forms in an area you do not need to access. A combination approach often works best. Use a manufactured windbreak fence for immediate protection and plant trees behind it or beside it for long term protection. The fence provides shelter while the trees grow, and the trees eventually take over the windbreak function. This approach spreads the cost over time and gives you the best of both options. ## Design Considerations for Different Operations ### Feedlot Windbreaks Feedlots have specific windbreak needs because cattle are confined to a relatively small area and cannot move freely to find shelter. The windbreak should be placed upwind of the pens, between the prevailing wind and the cattle. The protected zone should cover the resting area and the feed bunk. The feed bunk is the most important area to protect. Cattle that are eating are standing still and are fully exposed to the wind. If the feed bunk is in the wind, cattle will eat less and spend less time at the bunk. This reduces feed intake and increases the risk of digestive problems when they do eat. Place the windbreak 100 to 200 feet upwind of the feed bunk. This puts the bunk in the zone of maximum wind reduction. The windbreak should be at least as long as the feed bunk, preferably longer. Snow management is critical in feedlots. A snow drift that covers the feed bunk or blocks the feed truck is a serious problem. Place the windbreak far enough upwind that the main drift forms between the windbreak and the bunk, not on the bunk itself. You may also need to install a separate snow fence closer to the bunk to catch drifting snow before it reaches the feeding area. ### Calving Area Windbreaks Calving areas need the highest level of protection because newborn calves are extremely vulnerable to cold stress. A calf born in a 20 degree wind can die of hypothermia within minutes if it is not dried and protected. The windbreak should be placed so that the entire calving area is within the protected zone. For a calving area, use a combination of a solid windbreak for immediate shelter and a semipermeable windbreak for the larger area. The solid windbreak can be a shed or a tightly constructed fence that provides a small area of complete calm. The semipermeable windbreak extends the protected zone over a larger area. Place the calving area on the leeward side of the windbreak, 50 to 100 feet downwind. The area should also have access to water and be visible from your house or shop so you can monitor cows that are calving. Do not place the calving area so far from your working facilities that you cannot get a sick cow or calf to the barn quickly. ### Pasture Windbreaks Pasture windbreaks are the simplest to design because cattle have room to move. The main goal is to provide a sheltered area that cattle can access when the weather is bad. The windbreak does not need to cover the entire pasture, just the area where cattle naturally gather. Place the windbreak near water and feed sources. Cattle will not walk a mile to use a windbreak if they are comfortable where they are. The windbreak should be within a few hundred feet of the water source and the main grazing area. A pasture windbreak can be a single row of trees, a manufactured fence, or a combination. It should be long enough to accommodate the entire herd at once. If you have 50 cows, the windbreak should be at least 200 feet long so that all the cows can stand behind it without crowding. ## Common Windbreak Mistakes ### Placing the Windbreak Too Close to the Protected Area The most common mistake is placing the windbreak directly against the area you want to protect. A windbreak that is right next to a feed bunk or a calving shed creates a small, turbulent zone that is actually less comfortable than no windbreak at all. The wind spills over the top and drops down immediately behind the barrier, creating swirling conditions that can be worse than the open wind. The solution is to leave 50 to 150 feet between the windbreak and the protected area. This distance gives the wind time to settle after passing through or over the windbreak, creating a smooth, reduced wind zone. ### Building a Solid Barrier A solid wall or a tightly constructed fence is a poor windbreak. It creates a small protected zone immediately behind it, but the wind accelerates over the top and creates strong turbulence on the leeward side. The protected zone is so small that only a few cattle can use it, and the turbulence extends far downwind. The solution is to build a semipermeable barrier that lets 40 to 60 percent of the wind pass through. The gaps in the barrier slow the wind without stopping it entirely, creating a much larger protected zone. ### Ignoring Snow Drift Patterns Every windbreak creates a snow drift on its leeward side. If you do not plan for this, the drift can bury your feed bunk, block your water tank, or make your windbreak unusable. A windbreak that is buried in snow provides no protection. The solution is to place the windbreak far enough upwind of structures and working areas that the drift forms in a harmless location. You can also use a snow fence for cattle specifically, which is designed to create a controlled drift in a predictable location. ### Making the Windbreak Too Short A short windbreak protects only a small area. Wind wraps around the ends of the windbreak, so the protected zone narrows at the edges. A windbreak that is 50 feet long protects an area that is only 30 to 40 feet wide in the middle. The solution is to make the windbreak at least 1.5 times the length of the area you need to protect. For a large operation, this may mean building multiple windbreaks staggered so that their protected zones overlap. ### Forgetting About Summer A windbreak that is designed only for winter can be a liability in summer. Dense tree windbreaks block airflow and can create hot, humid conditions on the leeward side. This is especially a problem in feedlots where heat stress is already a concern. The solution is to design the windbreak with summer in mind. A semipermeable windbreak allows some airflow even in winter and provides good ventilation in summer. If you are planting trees, include some deciduous species that lose their leaves in winter, allowing more wind through when you need it less. ### Neglecting Maintenance A windbreak is a working structure that requires maintenance. Trees need watering, weeding, and pruning. Fences need post replacement and fabric repair. If you ignore maintenance, the windbreak will degrade and eventually stop working. The solution is to schedule regular maintenance. Check the windbreak in the fall before the first storm and again in the spring after the snow melts. Make repairs promptly and replace worn materials before they fail completely. ## Decision Thresholds for Windbreak Upgrades How do you know when your existing windbreak is not doing the job? There are several signs that indicate you need to upgrade or replace your windbreak for cattle pasture. If you see cattle standing with their hindquarters to the wind even when a windbreak is present, the windbreak is not providing adequate protection. Cattle that are comfortable will stand in various positions and move freely. Cattle that are stressed will orient themselves away from the wind and bunch together. If you see snow drifting over or through the windbreak into the protected area, the windbreak is either too short, too sparse, or too far away. The protected area should be relatively free of snow accumulation. If you see cattle avoiding the windbreak area entirely, something is wrong. The windbreak may be placed in an area that is too wet, too muddy, or too far from water and feed. Cattle will not use a windbreak if they have to walk past better shelter or if the ground around the windbreak is a quagmire. If your feed costs are higher than expected in winter, your windbreak may not be providing enough protection. Track your feed usage and compare it to previous years. A well designed windbreak should reduce winter feed requirements by 5 to 15 percent. If you are seeing more respiratory disease or calf mortality than expected, wind stress may be a contributing factor. Talk to your veterinarian about whether wind exposure is a likely cause and whether a windbreak upgrade would help. ## Monitoring and Recordkeeping A windbreak is an investment, and like any investment, it should be monitored. Keep records of when you built the windbreak, what materials you used, and what maintenance you performed. This information helps you make decisions about repairs and upgrades. In the fall, before the first winter storm, walk the entire length of the windbreak. Check for damaged posts, torn fabric, broken slats, and trees that have died or been damaged. Make any repairs before the weather turns bad. During the winter, check the windbreak after major snow events. Look for snow drifts that are covering the windbreak or blocking access to it. Look for signs that cattle are using the windbreak, such as tracks, manure, and bedding areas on the leeward side. In the spring, check the windbreak again for damage from winter weather. Reset any posts that have heaved out of the ground. Straighten any leaning trees. Replace any materials that are beyond repair. Keep a simple log of your observations. Note the date, the weather conditions, and what you saw. This log helps you identify patterns over time. For example, you might notice that the windbreak provides good protection until the snow depth exceeds 2 feet, at which point the cattle stop using it. This information tells you that you need a taller windbreak or a different design. ## When to Call a Veterinarian or Extension Agent A windbreak is a management tool, not a medical treatment. If your cattle are showing signs of cold stress, hypothermia, or respiratory disease, call your veterinarian. Do not wait to see if the windbreak will solve the problem. Signs of cold stress in cattle include shivering, lethargy, reduced feed intake, and seeking shelter. Signs of hypothermia include weakness, staggering, cold ears and extremities, and a drop in body temperature. Newborn calves are especially vulnerable. If you find a calf that is cold, weak, or not nursing, bring it inside and warm it up immediately, then call your veterinarian. Signs of respiratory disease include coughing, nasal discharge, labored breathing, and reduced appetite. Respiratory disease can spread quickly through a herd, especially when cattle are stressed by weather. Early treatment is important. Your local extension agent can help you with windbreak design and placement. Extension agents have access to local weather data, soil information, and recommended tree species for your area. They can also help you calculate the economic return on a windbreak investment and connect you with cost sharing programs if any are available in your state. ## Frequently Asked Questions ### How far should a windbreak be from my cattle? The windbreak should be 50 to 150 feet upwind of the area where your cattle spend the most time. This distance puts the cattle in the zone of maximum wind reduction. If the windbreak is too close, the protected zone is small and turbulent. If it is too far away, the wind speeds back up before reaching the cattle. ### What is the best material for a cattle windbreak? The best material depends on your timeline and budget. Trees are the cheapest long term option but take 10 to 20 years to provide full protection. Slatted wood fences, geotextile fabric, and metal mesh provide immediate protection but cost more up front. Many producers use a combination, installing a fence for immediate protection and planting trees behind it for long term coverage. ### How tall should a cattle windbreak be? The windbreak should be at least 8 to 10 feet tall for cattle. Taller windbreaks protect a larger area. A 10 foot tall windbreak protects an area 100 to 200 feet downwind. A 30 foot tall tree row protects an area 300 to 600 feet downwind. The height also matters for snow management, since taller windbreaks create larger drifts. ### Do I need a solid windbreak or a semipermeable one? A semipermeable windbreak that lets 40 to 60 percent of the wind through is almost always better than a solid one. A solid barrier creates a small, turbulent protected zone and can make conditions worse for cattle standing behind it. A semipermeable barrier creates a larger, smoother protected zone that more cattle can use. ### How long should my windbreak be? The windbreak should be at least 1.5 times the length of the area you are protecting. For a small pasture with 20 cows, a windbreak of 100 to 150 feet is adequate. For a feedlot with 200 head, plan on 300 to 500 feet. If you cannot build a single windbreak that long, build multiple shorter windbreaks staggered so their protected zones overlap. ### Will a windbreak cause snow problems? Yes, a windbreak will cause snow to drift on its leeward side. This is expected and can be managed. Place the windbreak at least 100 feet upwind of any structure you need to access in winter. Use a semipermeable design to reduce the size of the drift. You can also install a separate snow fence for cattle to control where snow accumulates. ### Can I use my barn as a windbreak? A barn or shed can serve as a windbreak, but it has limitations. The protected zone behind a building is small and turbulent, and snow drifts can be massive. If you use a building as a windbreak, place it so the drift forms in an area you do not need to access. A combination of a building and a semipermeable fence is often more effective than a building alone. ### How do I know if my windbreak is working? Watch your cattle. If they are spread out and calm during windy weather, the windbreak is working. If they are bunched up, standing with their hindquarters to the wind, or avoiding the windbreak area, it is not working. You can also measure wind speed on both sides of the windbreak with a handheld anemometer. The wind speed on the leeward side should be 40 to 60 percent lower than the windward side. ## Related Farming Guides This section will be populated with links to related farming guides on cattle management, pasture design, winter feeding, and livestock health. ## Related Clinical & Scientific Guides * [Cattle Head Gate Selection and Adjustment](/knowledge/animal-farming/beef-cattle/cattle-head-gate-selection-and-adjustment) * [Beef Cattle Handling Facility Flow](/knowledge/animal-farming/beef-cattle/beef-cattle-handling-facility-flow) * [Beef Cattle Maternity Pen Design: Comfort and Monitoring](/knowledge/animal-farming/beef-cattle/beef-cattle-maternity-pen-design-comfort-monitoring) ## References - Beef Cattle Research Council: https://www.beefresearch.ca/ - USDA APHIS Cattle Health: https://www.aphis.usda.gov/livestock-poultry-disease/cattle - WOAH Terrestrial Animal Health Code: https://www.woah.org/en/what-we-do/standards/codes-and-manuals/terrestrial-code-online-access/ - FAO Animal Production and Health: https://www.fao.org/animal-production/en/ - WOAH (World Organisation for Animal Health): https://www.woah.org/en/home/ > This article is educational and is not a substitute for veterinary diagnosis, treatment, public-health guidance, or regulatory reporting.