# Hive Top Feeders: Types, Placement, and Seasonal Use ## Key Takeaways - Hive top feeders are positioned above the brood box and below the outer cover, facilitating upward bee access to supplemental nutrition. Primary types include tray, frame, division board, and bucket feeders, each with distinct advantages and disadvantages regarding capacity, robbing susceptibility, and ease of use. - Supplemental feeding is critical during natural forage shortages (spring gaps, summer dearths), for new colony establishment (packages, nucs), and for fall winter preparation to ensure colonies accumulate 60-90 pounds of stores. Stimulative feeding in spring uses a 1:1 syrup to encourage brood production, while fall feeding utilizes a 2:1 syrup for efficient storage. - Robbing is a significant risk with hive top feeders, particularly tray and bucket types, and can be mitigated by reducing hive entrances, feeding in the evening, and utilizing in-hive feeders like frame or division board types. Drowning is another common issue, preventable by using feeders with floats or shallow syrup depths. - Seasonal feeding calendars dictate syrup concentration and feeder type: 1:1 syrup in tray/frame feeders for spring stimulation, 1:1 for summer dearth if needed, and 2:1 syrup in large-capacity feeders (bucket/tray) for fall storage. Winter feeding necessitates dry sugar or candy boards, not liquid syrup, to prevent freezing and aid water management. - Regular monitoring of syrup consumption (every 3-5 days) is essential to gauge colony strength and adjust feeding frequency. Feeders should be removed once adequate stores are achieved or natural nectar flow commences to prevent syrup storage over nectar and potential honey crop reduction. - Cleanliness is paramount to disease prevention; feeders must be washed thoroughly with hot water and mild detergent between uses and seasons to eliminate residual syrup, which can ferment and harbor pathogens like *Paenibacillus larvae* or *Nosema ceranae*. --- Feeding honey bees is one of the most important management tasks a beekeeper will perform, and the hive top feeder is often the most convenient and effective tool for the job. This guide covers the main types of hive top feeders, how to place them correctly, and when to use them across the seasons. It is written for both new beekeepers setting up their first hives and experienced apiarists looking to refine their feeding practices. You will learn the pros and cons of each feeder design, how to avoid common problems like robbing and drowning, and how to make informed decisions about when your colonies actually need supplemental food. ## At a Glance - **Hive top feeders sit directly above the brood box** and below the outer cover, giving bees upward access to syrup or dry sugar. - **Main types**: tray feeders, frame feeders, division board feeders, and bucket feeders. Each has specific strengths and weaknesses. - **Best for**: fall feeding to build winter stores, spring stimulation feeding, and emergency rescue of starving colonies. - **Placement matters**: always use an inner cover or spacer to reduce robbing risk and keep the feeder sealed against weather. - **Monitor regularly**: check syrup consumption every 3 to 5 days and remove feeders when stores are adequate. - **Avoid feeding during honey flow** unless you are managing for specific disease treatments or stimulative purposes. - **Robbing is the biggest risk** with any top feeder. Use entrance reducers and feed in the evening when possible. - **Cleanliness prevents disease**: wash feeders between uses and never leave old syrup to ferment in the hive. ## Understanding Why Bees Need Supplemental Feeding Honey bees are remarkable foragers, but they cannot always find enough nectar and pollen to sustain the colony. Beekeepers feed bees for several distinct reasons, and understanding these reasons helps you choose the right feeder and the right timing. ### Natural Forage Shortages Even in good [beekeeping](/knowledge/animal-farming/apiculture/beekeeping-colony-nutrition-seasonal-management-parasite-monitoring-and-honey-harvest) regions, there are times when nectar is scarce. Early spring often brings a gap between the first warm days and the first major nectar flow. The colony is expanding rapidly, the queen is laying heavily, and the bees are consuming stores faster than they can replace them. A sudden cold snap can trap bees in the hive for days, and they may exhaust their food reserves before the weather breaks. Summer dearths are another common problem. Many regions experience a period in mid to late summer when flowering plants have finished blooming and the fall flowers have not yet started. Colonies can burn through their surplus stores during this time, especially if they are large and strong. Without intervention, they may enter the fall with inadequate winter stores. ### New Colony Establishment Package bees and nucs need immediate feeding. A package of bees arrives with no drawn comb, no stored honey, and no pollen. The bees must build comb from scratch, which requires enormous energy. Feeding a newly installed package a 1:1 sugar syrup solution gives them the resources to draw comb quickly and gives the queen the support she needs to begin laying. Nucs are slightly better off because they come with some drawn comb and stores, but they still benefit from supplemental feeding during their first weeks in a new hive. The colony is small and needs to grow quickly to build up enough population to forage effectively and defend the hive. ### Fall Winter Preparation Fall feeding is the most critical feeding period for most beekeepers. The colony needs to pack away 60 to 90 pounds of honey or sugar syrup to survive the winter. In many regions, the fall nectar flow is not reliable or is simply not enough to fill the brood box and honey supers. Beekeepers typically feed a heavy 2:1 sugar syrup in the fall. This thicker syrup mimics the consistency of ripened honey and allows bees to store it more efficiently. The goal is to give the colony enough syrup to fill the frames they will cluster on during winter. Feeding must stop before temperatures drop too low for the bees to process the syrup, usually when daytime highs fall below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. ### Stimulative Feeding in Spring Light syrup feeding in spring serves a different purpose. A 1:1 sugar syrup solution signals to the queen that nectar is coming in, encouraging her to increase her laying rate. This is called stimulative feeding because it stimulates brood production. The goal is not to store large amounts of syrup but to encourage the colony to build up population before the main honey flow. Beekeepers use this technique to strengthen colonies ahead of the spring nectar flow or to help small colonies grow faster. The syrup should be fed continuously until the colony reaches the desired strength or until the natural nectar flow begins. ### Emergency Rescue Feeding Sometimes a colony is starving and needs immediate intervention. This can happen after a long winter, after a pesticide kill that wiped out foragers, or after a sudden weather event that prevented foraging for weeks. Emergency feeding requires a feeder that bees can access immediately and that is unlikely to cause drowning. For starving colonies, some beekeepers use dry sugar placed directly on the top bars or a hive top feeder filled with dry sugar. Syrup can be dangerous if the colony is too weak to defend it from robbers or too cold to process it. Dry sugar is safer in cold weather because it does not freeze and does not require the bees to evaporate excess water. ## Types of Hive Top Feeders Hive top feeders come in several designs, each with advantages and drawbacks. The best choice depends on your climate, the strength of your colony, the season, and your personal preference for maintenance and inspection. ### Tray Feeders Tray feeders are shallow pans that sit on top of the brood box, often inside a super or a specially designed housing. They have a large surface area with a shallow depth of syrup, typically less than one inch. The shallow depth is critical because it prevents bees from drowning. Some tray feeders have floats, screens, or mesh inserts that give bees a place to stand while drinking. The main advantage of tray feeders is their large capacity and easy access for bees. A strong colony can consume several quarts of syrup in a day, and a tray feeder holds enough to reduce the frequency of refills. They are also easy to clean and refill without disturbing the brood nest. The main disadvantage is that tray feeders are prone to robbing. The large opening and accessible syrup attract bees from neighboring colonies, wasps, and hornets. Tray feeders also take up space on top of the hive, which can be a problem if you are using an inner cover and need to add supers. Some tray feeders are designed as in-hive feeders that sit inside an empty super. These are sometimes called frame feeders or division board feeders, but true tray feeders are distinct. A tray feeder sits above the brood frames, not between them. ### Frame Feeders Frame feeders are designed to replace a standard frame inside the brood box. They are the same size as a regular deep frame and hang from the frame rests like any other frame. The feeder is a plastic or wooden box with a screened or slotted opening that allows bees to access the syrup from both sides. Frame feeders are popular because they keep the syrup inside the hive, which reduces robbing pressure. The bees do not have to travel far to access the food, and the feeder is protected from weather and predators. They are also relatively inexpensive and easy to install. The downsides of frame feeders are significant. They require you to open the hive and remove a frame to place the feeder, which disturbs the colony. The syrup can spill during insertion, which can trigger robbing. Frame feeders also take up space that the colony could use for brood or stores. In a strong colony, a frame feeder may be emptied in a day, requiring frequent refills. Another problem with frame feeders is the risk of drowning. The syrup surface is deeper than in a tray feeder, and bees can fall in and drown. Many frame feeders have floats or screens to mitigate this, but they are not foolproof. Check frame feeders regularly and remove any dead bees to prevent the syrup from fouling. ### Division Board Feeders Division board feeders are similar to frame feeders but are designed to be placed at the edge of the brood box, against the wall. They are sometimes called end feeders because they sit at the end of the box. They have the same basic design as frame feeders, with a reservoir and a screened or slotted access area. The advantage of division board feeders is that they disturb the colony less than a frame feeder placed in the middle of the box. The bees can access the feeder from one side while the rest of the brood nest remains intact. They are also easier to refill because you do not have to lift out a heavy frame. Division board feeders share the same drawbacks as frame feeders. They take up space in the brood box, they can be prone to drowning, and they require opening the hive to refill. They are a good choice for small to medium colonies that do not need large volumes of syrup. ### Bucket Feeders Bucket feeders are simple and effective. A plastic bucket with small holes in the lid is filled with syrup and inverted over the hole in the inner cover or directly over the frames. The holes are small enough that syrup does not pour out, but bees can access the syrup through the holes. The main advantage of bucket feeders is their capacity. A five-gallon bucket can hold a large amount of syrup, which is useful for strong colonies during heavy fall feeding. Bucket feeders are also inexpensive and easy to clean. Many beekeepers keep several buckets on hand and rotate them for easy refilling. The disadvantages include the risk of leaking if the bucket is not sealed properly and the difficulty of cleaning buckets that have held syrup for a long time. Bucket feeders can also be heavy and awkward to handle when full. If the holes are too large, syrup can leak out and attract robbers. If the holes are too small, bees may struggle to access the syrup. Some bucket feeders are designed to sit inside an empty super or a specially made feeder shim. This keeps the bucket off the frames and gives the bees room to cluster around the holes. The bucket should be placed over the cluster of bees so they can reach the syrup without traveling far. ### Baggy Feeders Baggy feeders are a low-cost alternative that many beekeepers use in a pinch. They consist of a heavy-duty plastic bag filled with syrup and sealed. The bag is placed on top of the frames, and a few small slits are cut in the upper surface. The bees access the syrup through the slits, and the bag collapses as the syrup is consumed. The main advantage of baggy feeders is that they are cheap and disposable. They are useful for emergency feeding because they can be placed quickly without much preparation. They also take up less space than a bucket feeder. The disadvantages are that baggy feeders are prone to leaking and can be messy. The slits can tear and create large openings that allow syrup to spill into the hive. Baggy feeders also do not last long and need to be replaced frequently. They are best used as a temporary solution rather than a primary feeding method. ### Dry Sugar Feeders Dry sugar feeders are used primarily in cold weather when syrup would freeze or when the colony is too weak to process syrup. They consist of a tray or container filled with granulated sugar, which the bees can access and consume directly. Some beekeepers use a simple method of placing sugar directly on the top bars and covering it with a sheet of newspaper or a feeder shim. The main advantage of dry sugar is that it does not freeze and does not require the bees to evaporate water. It is an excellent emergency food for winter when the bees cannot leave the cluster to process syrup. Dry sugar also does not attract robbers as strongly as syrup because it is not a liquid. The disadvantages are that dry sugar is less efficient than syrup. Bees must collect water to dissolve the sugar, which is difficult in cold weather. Dry sugar also takes up space on top of the hive and can be messy. Some beekeepers mix dry sugar with a small amount of water to make a patty, which is easier for bees to consume. ## Choosing the Right Feeder for Your Situation The best feeder for your hive depends on several factors. Consider the following questions before making a choice. ### What Is the Colony Strength? Strong colonies can handle large feeders and will empty them quickly. A bucket feeder or a large tray feeder is a good choice for a strong colony during fall feeding. Weak colonies need smaller feeders that are easy to access and do not require much travel. A division board feeder or a small tray feeder is better for a nuc or a weak package. ### What Season Is It? Spring feeding calls for light syrup in a feeder that encourages frequent foraging. A tray feeder or a frame feeder works well because the bees can access the syrup easily and the beekeeper can refill it frequently. Fall feeding calls for heavy syrup in a large-capacity feeder that minimizes disturbance. A bucket feeder or a large tray feeder is ideal. Winter feeding calls for dry sugar or candy boards, not liquid syrup. ### What Is Your Climate? Cold climates require feeders that can withstand freezing temperatures. Syrup will freeze in any feeder if the temperature drops low enough, so plan to finish feeding before cold weather arrives. In mild climates, you may be able to feed syrup later into the season. Dry sugar feeders are useful in any climate but are especially valuable in cold regions. ### How Much Time Can You Spend on Maintenance? Some feeders require daily attention, while others can be left for a week or more. Bucket feeders and large tray feeders need less frequent refills. Frame feeders and division board feeders may need daily refills in a strong colony. Baggy feeders need frequent replacement. Be realistic about your schedule and choose a feeder that fits your routine. ### What Is Your Robbing Risk? Robbing is a serious problem in beekeeping. A strong colony can be weakened or destroyed by robbers from other hives. Feeders that are exposed or that have large openings attract robbers. In-hive feeders like frame feeders and division board feeders are less attractive to robbers. Tray feeders and bucket feeders placed on top of the hive are more exposed and require careful management. ## Step-by-Step Guide to Using a Hive Top Feeder Follow these steps to use a hive top feeder successfully. The exact process varies slightly depending on the feeder type, but the principles are the same. ### Step 1: Prepare the Syrup Mix the correct syrup concentration for your purpose. For spring stimulation feeding, use a 1:1 ratio of sugar to water by weight. For fall storage feeding, use a 2:1 ratio of sugar to water by weight. For example, mix 10 pounds of sugar with 10 pounds of water for spring feeding, or 10 pounds of sugar with 5 pounds of water for fall feeding. Use white granulated sugar. Do not use brown sugar, honey, or artificial sweeteners. Brown sugar contains impurities that can cause dysentery in bees. Honey can introduce diseases from other colonies. Artificial sweeteners provide no nutritional value. Heat the water to near boiling, then stir in the sugar until it dissolves completely. Do not boil the syrup after adding sugar, as this can caramelize the sugar and make it harder for bees to digest. Let the syrup cool to room temperature before filling the feeder. ### Step 2: Position the Feeder Open the hive and remove the outer cover and inner cover. Place the feeder directly over the top bars of the brood box. If you are using a tray feeder, place it inside an empty super or a feeder shim to give the bees room to access it. If you are using a bucket feeder, place it over the hole in the inner cover or directly over the frames. Make sure the feeder is level and stable. A tilted feeder can leak syrup or create uneven access for the bees. The feeder should be positioned so that the bees can reach the syrup without traveling far from the brood nest. ### Step 3: Seal the Feeder The feeder must be sealed to prevent robbing and to keep out rain and cold air. An inner cover placed over the feeder works well if the feeder has a recessed area for the bees to access. If the feeder sits above the frames, use a feeder shim or an empty super to create a space between the top bars and the outer cover. Check that there are no gaps where bees can escape or where robbers can enter. A tight seal also helps maintain hive temperature and humidity. Some feeders have built-in lids or covers that seal the syrup reservoir. ### Step 4: Reduce the Entrance Robbing is the biggest risk when feeding. Reduce the entrance to a small opening that the colony can defend. An entrance reducer is a simple wooden or plastic strip that narrows the entrance. Use the smallest opening that still allows adequate ventilation. The reduced entrance makes it harder for robbers to enter and gives the guard bees a smaller area to defend. It also helps the colony maintain temperature and humidity, which is important when the bees are processing syrup. ### Step 5: Feed in the Evening Feed bees in the evening whenever possible. This gives the bees time to take down the syrup before the next day's foraging begins. It also reduces the chance of robbing because the syrup is not exposed during the day when robbers are active. If you are using a tray feeder or a bucket feeder, fill it in the evening and place it on the hive just before dark. The bees will begin taking the syrup immediately, and by morning, much of it will be stored in the comb. ### Step 6: Monitor Consumption Check the feeder every 3 to 5 days to see how much syrup the bees have consumed. A strong colony can empty a large feeder in a few days. A weak colony may take a week or more. Refill the feeder before it is completely empty to avoid interrupting the bees' feeding. Monitor the colony's overall condition as well. Look for signs of brood production, comb building, and pollen storage. The feeding should support the colony's growth, not just fill the feeder. ### Step 7: Remove the Feeder When Done Remove the feeder when the colony has reached its target weight or when the natural nectar flow begins. Leaving a feeder on too long can cause the bees to store syrup instead of foraging for nectar, which reduces your honey crop. It can also encourage robbing if the syrup is left exposed. Clean the feeder thoroughly after use. Wash it with hot water and a mild detergent, then rinse well. Do not use bleach or harsh chemicals, as these can leave residues that are harmful to bees. Store the feeder in a dry place until the next season. ## Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them Even experienced beekeepers make mistakes with hive top feeders. Here are the most common problems and how to avoid them. ### Drowning Bees Bees drown when the syrup is too deep or when there is no landing surface. This is most common with frame feeders and division board feeders, where the syrup depth can be several inches. It can also happen with tray feeders if the syrup is poured too deep. Use feeders with floats, screens, or mesh inserts that give bees a place to stand. Keep the syrup depth shallow, especially in tray feeders. Check the feeder regularly and remove any dead bees to prevent the syrup from fouling. ### Robbing Robbing occurs when bees from other colonies find the syrup and try to take it. The robbers fight with the colony's guard bees, and the colony can be weakened or destroyed. Robbing is most common when the syrup is exposed, when the feeder is placed outside the hive, or when the entrance is too wide. Reduce the entrance when feeding, feed in the evening, and use feeders that keep the syrup inside the hive. If robbing starts, close the entrance completely for a few hours and remove the feeder temporarily. The robbers will lose interest and return to their own hive. ### Fermentation Syrup can ferment if it is left in the feeder too long, especially in warm weather. Fermented syrup is harmful to bees and can cause dysentery. It also attracts pests like wasps and ants. Do not mix more syrup than you can use in a few days. Clean the feeder between refills and discard any syrup that has been sitting for more than a week. In hot weather, consider feeding smaller amounts more frequently. ### Cold Weather Feeding Syrup freezes in cold weather, and bees cannot consume frozen syrup. Feeding syrup too late in the fall can leave the bees with a feeder full of frozen syrup and no stores for winter. The bees may also be unable to evaporate the water from the syrup, which can lead to dysentery. Finish fall feeding before daytime highs drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Switch to dry sugar or candy boards for winter feeding. Monitor the weather forecast and plan your feeding schedule accordingly. ### Overfeeding Feeding too much syrup can cause problems. The bees may store syrup in cells that should be used for brood, limiting the queen's laying space. They may also produce a large crop of syrup-flavored honey that is not as desirable as nectar honey. Overfeeding in spring can cause the colony to swarm. Feed only as much as the colony needs. Use stimulative feeding in spring to encourage brood production, but stop when the natural nectar flow begins. Use storage feeding in fall to build winter stores, but do not exceed the amount the colony needs for winter. ### Contaminated Feeders Feeders can harbor bacteria, mold, and other pathogens. Old syrup left in feeders can ferment and grow mold. Feeders that are not cleaned between uses can spread disease from one colony to another. Clean feeders thoroughly between uses and between seasons. Wash with hot water and a mild detergent, then rinse well. Dry the feeders completely before storing them. Do not use feeders that show signs of mold or contamination. ## Seasonal Feeding Calendar A seasonal feeding calendar helps you plan your feeding schedule and avoid last-minute emergencies. The exact timing depends on your climate and local nectar flows, but the following schedule provides a general guide. ### Spring Feeding (March to May) Spring feeding is for stimulation and colony build-up. Use a 1:1 sugar syrup in a tray feeder or frame feeder. Feed continuously until the colony has built up to the desired strength or until the main nectar flow begins. Inspect the hive every 7 to 10 days to check brood production and syrup consumption. Add supers when the colony has drawn out most of the brood box frames. Stop feeding when the nectar flow is strong enough to support colony growth. ### Summer Dearth Feeding (June to August) Summer dearth feeding is optional and depends on your local conditions. If the colony is strong and has adequate stores, no feeding is needed. If the colony is weak or stores are low, feed a light syrup to prevent starvation. Use a 1:1 syrup in a tray feeder or bucket feeder. Feed in the evening to reduce robbing risk. Monitor the colony closely and stop feeding as soon as the nectar flow resumes. ### Fall Feeding (September to November) Fall feeding is for building winter stores. Use a 2:1 sugar syrup in a bucket feeder or large tray feeder. The goal is to give the colony enough syrup to fill the frames they will cluster on during winter. A strong colony may need 60 to 90 pounds of syrup to build adequate winter stores. Feed continuously until the feeder is no longer being emptied or until daytime highs drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Remove the feeder and close up the hive for winter. ### Winter Feeding (December to February) Winter feeding is for emergency rescue only. Use dry sugar or candy boards placed directly over the cluster. Do not feed syrup in winter because it will freeze and the bees cannot consume it. Check the colony's weight periodically by hefting the hive from the back. If the hive feels light, add a candy board or dry sugar. Do not open the hive in cold weather unless absolutely necessary. ## Monitoring and Recordkeeping Good recordkeeping helps you make better feeding decisions and track your colonies' health over time. Keep a notebook or digital log for each hive and record the following information. ### Hive Weight Weigh the hive or heft it from the back to estimate the weight of stored food. A deep box full of honey weighs about 80 to 90 pounds. An empty deep box weighs about 20 to 25 pounds. Weigh the hive at the start of fall feeding and again at the end to determine how much syrup the bees have stored. Use a hive scale if you have one. A scale gives you precise data on weight changes and helps you monitor feeding progress without opening the hive. Many beekeepers use a simple luggage scale or a dedicated hive scale. ### Syrup Consumption Record how much syrup you add to each feeder and how quickly the bees consume it. This tells you the colony's strength and feeding needs. A strong colony may consume a gallon of syrup per day. A weak colony may consume only a quart per week. Track consumption over time to identify trends. If consumption drops suddenly, the colony may be experiencing a problem. If consumption remains high, the colony may need more feeding than expected. ### Colony Condition Inspect the colony regularly and record its condition. Note the number of frames covered by bees, the amount of brood, the presence of the queen, and the stores of honey and pollen. This information helps you determine whether the colony is growing, stable, or declining. Take photos of the frames during inspections to document the colony's progress. This is especially useful for comparing conditions over time and for sharing information with mentors or extension agents. ### Feeding Dates and Amounts Record the dates and amounts of each feeding. This helps you plan future feeding schedules and identify patterns. For example, if you always need to feed heavily in September, you can plan to have syrup ready in advance. Note the type of feeder used and any problems encountered. This information helps you choose the best feeder for your situation and avoid repeating mistakes. ## When to Call a Veterinarian or Extension Agent Most feeding decisions are straightforward, but there are times when you should seek professional advice. A veterinarian or extension agent can help you diagnose problems and develop a treatment plan. ### Signs of Disease If your colony shows signs of disease, such as foulbrood, chalkbrood, or nosema, stop feeding immediately and consult a professional. Feeding can spread disease within the hive and to other colonies. A veterinarian can help you identify the disease and recommend treatment. American foulbrood is a serious bacterial disease that can destroy a colony and spread to neighboring hives. It is caused by Paenibacillus larvae and is highly contagious. Symptoms include sunken, greasy-looking brood with a foul odor. If you suspect American foulbrood, contact your state apiarist or extension agent immediately. ### Unexplained Colony Loss If your colony is losing bees rapidly and you cannot identify the cause, seek professional help. Colony collapse disorder, pesticide poisoning, and other problems can cause sudden die-offs. A veterinarian or extension agent can help you investigate the cause and prevent further losses. Take notes on the colony's condition, including any symptoms you have observed. Take photos of the brood, the bees, and the hive. This information helps the professional make a diagnosis. ### Pesticide Exposure If you suspect pesticide poisoning, contact your extension agent or state apiarist. They can help you identify the pesticide and determine the source. In some cases, you may need to report the incident to your state department of agriculture. Signs of pesticide poisoning include large numbers of dead bees at the hive entrance, twitching bees, and a sudden drop in foraging activity. If you suspect pesticide poisoning, do not feed the colony until the source of contamination is identified. ### Regulatory Reporting Some diseases and pests are reportable to state or federal authorities. If you suspect a reportable disease, such as American foulbrood or small hive beetle infestation, contact your state apiarist or extension agent. They can advise you on reporting requirements and help you control the problem. The USDA Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service (APHIS) oversees honey bee health at the federal level. Your state department of agriculture may also have specific reporting requirements. Your extension agent can help you navigate these regulations. ## Frequently Asked Questions ### How often should I refill a hive top feeder? Check the feeder every 3 to 5 days and refill it before it is completely empty. A strong colony can empty a large feeder in 2 to 3 days, while a weak colony may take a week or more. Refill in the evening to reduce robbing risk. If the feeder is still full after a week, the bees may not need feeding or the syrup may be too concentrated. ### Can I feed bees honey instead of sugar syrup? Do not feed bees honey from unknown sources. Honey can contain spores of American foulbrood and other diseases that can infect your colony. If you feed honey, use only honey from your own healthy colonies. Sugar syrup is safer and more economical for most feeding purposes. Use white granulated sugar and clean water for best results. ### How do I prevent bees from drowning in the feeder? Use feeders with floats, screens, or mesh inserts that give bees a place to stand while drinking. Keep the syrup depth shallow, especially in tray feeders. For frame feeders and division board feeders, check the syrup level regularly and add floats if needed. Remove any dead bees from the feeder to prevent the syrup from fouling. ### When should I stop feeding in the fall? Stop fall feeding when the colony has stored enough syrup to last through winter, typically 60 to 90 pounds depending on your climate. Also stop feeding when daytime highs drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, because the bees cannot process syrup in cold weather. Remove the feeder and close up the hive before temperatures drop further. ### Why are bees fighting at the feeder? Fighting at the feeder usually indicates robbing. Robbers from other colonies are trying to take the syrup, and the colony's guard bees are defending. Reduce the entrance to a small opening, feed in the evening, and use a feeder that keeps the syrup inside the hive. If robbing continues, close the entrance completely for a few hours and remove the feeder temporarily. ### Can I leave a hive top feeder on all year? Leaving a feeder on all year is not recommended. Feeding when natural nectar is available can cause the bees to store syrup instead of foraging, which reduces your honey crop. It can also encourage robbing and create conditions for disease. Use feeders only when the colony needs supplemental food, and remove them when the need is met. ### What is the difference between 1:1 and 2:1 sugar syrup? A 1:1 syrup is equal parts sugar and water by weight. It is used for spring stimulation feeding because it mimics the consistency of nectar and encourages foraging and brood production. A 2:1 syrup is two parts sugar to one part water by weight. It is used for fall storage feeding because it is thicker and allows bees to store it more efficiently with less water to evaporate. ### How do I know if my colony is starving? A starving colony has no stored honey or syrup and the bees are weak and listless. The bees may be clustered tightly and shivering to generate heat. If you lift the hive and it feels very light, the colony may be starving. Feed immediately with a 1:1 syrup or dry sugar. In cold weather, use dry sugar or a candy board because syrup will freeze. ## Related Farming Guides This section will be populated with links to other farming guides on this site. Check back soon for related content on hive management, seasonal beekeeping tasks, and colony health. ## Related Clinical & Scientific Guides * [Waste Management in the Apiary: Culling, Dead Hives, and Debris Disposal](/knowledge/animal-farming/apiculture/waste-management-apiary-culling-dead-hives-debris-disposal) * [Package Bee Production: Business Planning and Colony Establishment](/knowledge/animal-farming/apiculture/package-bee-production-business-planning-and-colony-establishment) * [Siting an Apiary: Legal Setbacks, Neighbor Relations, and Flight Paths](/knowledge/animal-farming/apiculture/siting-apiary-legal-setbacks-neighbor-relations-flight-paths) ## References - [FAO Bee Health](https://www.fao.org/pollination/en/) - [USDA APHIS Honey Bee Health](https://www.aphis.usda.gov/livestock-poultry-disease/honeybees) - [Honey Bee Health Coalition](https://honeybeehealthcoalition.org/) - [FAO Animal Production and Health](https://www.fao.org/animal-production/en/) - [WOAH (World Organisation for Animal Health)](https://www.woah.org/en/home/) > This article is educational and is not a substitute for veterinary diagnosis, treatment, public-health guidance, or regulatory reporting.