# Hive Stands for Mobility: Pallet and Wheeled Options ## Key Takeaways - Pallet hive stands are optimized for commercial operations requiring frequent, long-distance transport of numerous colonies (4-6 hives per pallet), leveraging forklift or pallet jack compatibility for efficient loading onto trucks and trailers. - Wheeled beehive stands are designed for hobbyist and sideline beekeepers, facilitating occasional repositioning of 1-2 hives over short distances (under 100 feet) on varied terrain, with lower initial equipment cost and single-person operation. - Load capacity is a critical differentiator: pallet stands support very high loads (hundreds of pounds per pallet), whereas wheeled stands are typically rated for moderate loads (1-2 hives), limiting their scalability for large apiaries. - Risk mitigation for bee stress and disorientation during moves is paramount; both systems aim to keep colonies intact, but pallet moves require careful strapping and transport logistics, while wheeled moves necessitate locking casters and stable platforms to prevent tipping. - Cost-effectiveness varies by scale: pallet systems incur higher initial equipment costs (forklift/pallet jack) but offer superior efficiency for large volumes, while wheeled stands present a lower entry barrier for individual hive mobility. - Successful hive relocation hinges on meticulous preparation, including proper pallet selection (heat-treated, pest-free), secure hive strapping (ratchet straps rated for 500+ lbs), and strategic timing (night/early morning) to minimize bee disorientation and mortality. --- Moving beehives is one of the most stressful events in a colony's life, and the equipment you use determines whether that move is a minor disruption or a major loss. This guide compares pallet hive stands and wheeled beehive stands for beekeepers who need to relocate colonies for pollination contracts, forage access, or yard reorganization. It covers the strengths and limits of each system, step-by-step setup and moving procedures, common mistakes, and decision thresholds so you can choose the right movable [hive stand](/knowledge/animal-farming/apiculture/hive-stands-elevation-benefits-construction-options) for your operation. ## At a Glance | Factor | Pallet Hive Stand | Wheeled Beehive Stand | |---|---|---| | Best for | Commercial pollination, large yards, frequent long-distance moves | Hobby and sideline beekeepers, small yards, occasional repositioning | | Load capacity | Very high (holds 4 to 6 full hives) | Moderate (holds 1 to 2 full hives) | | Terrain | Forklift or pallet jack on firm ground | Handles uneven ground but requires level wheels | | Initial cost | Moderate to high | Low to moderate | | Setup effort | Requires heavy equipment or multiple people | One person can often manage | | Moving distance | Any distance with truck and forklift | Short distances, under 100 feet typically | | Risk to bees | Low if strapped and moved carefully | Low if wheels lock and hives are strapped | | Best hive type | Langstroth boxes on pallets | Langstroth or top bar hives | | Maintenance | Minimal, check straps and pallet condition | Grease axles, check wheels and locks | ## Why Hive Mobility Matters Bees are territorial and orientation-driven. When you move a hive, worker bees that have memorized the old location will return there and cluster, confused and exposed. A movable hive stand reduces this risk by keeping the entire colony unit intact and allowing you to move bees during the correct time of day or season. There are three main reasons a beekeeper needs to move hives. The first is pollination contracts. Almonds, apples, blueberries, and many vegetable crops require managed honey bee colonies during bloom. A beekeeper who services these contracts must move hundreds of hives in a narrow window, often overnight. The second reason is forage access. If your apiary is in an area with poor nectar flow, you may need to relocate hives closer to clover, basswood, or other nectar sources. The third reason is yard management. Splitting an overpopulated apiary, consolidating weak colonies, or moving hives away from a flooded or diseased area all require reliable moving equipment. A movable hive stand solves the core problem of lifting and transporting heavy boxes without dismantling the colony. A full deep super of honey weighs 60 to 90 pounds. A double-deep colony with a honey super can easily exceed 150 pounds. Lifting individual boxes is slow, disruptive, and dangerous for your back. A stand that lets you move the whole colony at once saves hours and reduces stress on the bees. ## Types of Movable Hive Stands ### Pallet Hive Stands A pallet hive stand is a wooden or plastic pallet modified to hold bee hives securely. Standard pallets are 40 by 48 inches, which fits four Langstroth hives placed side by side with a small gap. Some beekeepers use half pallets that hold two hives, which are easier to move with a pallet jack. The key feature of a pallet hive stand is that it is designed to be lifted from underneath. Forklift tines slide into the pallet openings, or a pallet jack rolls under the deck. This design allows you to move an entire pallet of hives without touching the boxes. The hives stay strapped to the pallet, and the whole unit is lifted onto a truck bed or trailer. Pallet stands are the standard in commercial [beekeeping](/knowledge/animal-farming/apiculture/beekeeping-colony-nutrition-seasonal-management-parasite-monitoring-and-honey-harvest) because they are cheap, durable, and compatible with existing material-handling equipment. A used wooden pallet costs little or nothing. A new, heat-treated pallet costs 10 to 20 dollars. Plastic pallets cost more but last longer and do not absorb moisture or harbor pests. The main limitation of pallet stands is that they require a forklift or pallet jack. If you do not own this equipment, you are limited to moving pallets by hand, which defeats the purpose. Pallet jacks cost 300 to 800 dollars and require a smooth, hard surface. Forklifts cost thousands and require a truck to transport them. For a hobby beekeeper, this equipment investment is rarely justified. ### Wheeled Beehive Stands A wheeled beehive stand is a purpose-built frame with casters or pneumatic wheels attached to a hive platform. These stands come in many designs. Some are simple dolly-style platforms that you slide under a single hive. Others are A-frame or table-style stands with wheels built into the legs. The common feature is that you can roll the hive to a new location without lifting it. Wheeled stands are ideal for moving hives short distances. If you need to shift a hive 20 feet to get it out of a flood zone, into more sun, or away from a neighbor's property line, a wheeled stand lets you do that alone. Some designs have locking wheels that keep the hive stable once it is in place. Others have removable wheels so the stand converts to a stationary hive stand. The main advantage of wheeled stands is accessibility. You do not need a forklift or a second person. You can move a hive across a yard, around a garden, or into a shed. This makes them the natural choice for backyard beekeepers and small-scale operations. The main limitation is load capacity and terrain. Most wheeled stands are rated for one or two hives. A single deep hive body with bees, brood, and honey can weigh 100 to 150 pounds. A wheeled stand rated for 200 pounds will handle one such hive but not two. Pneumatic tires handle gravel and grass better than hard casters, but no wheeled stand handles stairs, deep mud, or steep slopes well. ## Comparing Pallet and Wheeled Stands ### Load Capacity and Hive Count Pallet stands win on raw capacity. A standard 40 by 48 pallet holds four Langstroth hives. If each hive is a double deep with a honey super, the pallet carries 600 to 800 pounds. A forklift rated for 3,000 to 5,000 pounds handles this easily. You can stack pallets on a truck bed two high, doubling your load per trip. Wheeled stands are limited by the strength of their axles and wheels. A quality wheeled stand rated for 300 pounds carries one full hive or two lighter nucs. A heavy-duty model rated for 500 pounds carries two full hives but is difficult to push over soft ground. For most hobby beekeepers, one hive per wheeled stand is the practical limit. ### Moving Distance and Logistics Pallet stands are the only practical option for long-distance moves. If you are hauling hives 100 miles to an almond orchard, you need equipment that loads onto a truck quickly and secures against highway vibration. Strapped pallets do this well. You can load 20 to 40 pallets on a flatbed trailer and move 80 to 160 hives in one trip. Wheeled stands are for short moves. Rolling a hive 50 feet across a lawn is easy. Rolling it a quarter mile down a gravel road is exhausting and risks damaging the wheels. A wheeled stand is not designed for highway transport. If you need to put a wheeled stand in a truck, you still have to lift it, which defeats the purpose. ### Cost Comparison A pallet hive stand is nearly free if you can source used pallets. New heat-treated pallets cost 10 to 20 dollars. The real cost is the handling equipment. A pallet jack costs 300 to 800 dollars. A used forklift costs 3,000 to 10,000 dollars. If you already own a tractor with forks, the pallet option is very economical. A wheeled hive stand costs 50 to 200 dollars depending on quality and capacity. A basic dolly-style stand with two fixed wheels and two swivel casters costs 50 to 80 dollars. A heavy-duty stand with pneumatic tires and locking wheels costs 150 to 250 dollars. There is no additional equipment cost, which makes wheeled stands the cheaper entry point for new beekeepers. ### Time and Labor Pallet stands save time when you move many hives at once. Strapping four hives to a pallet takes 10 minutes. Loading that pallet with a forklift takes 2 minutes. Moving 20 pallets takes about 4 hours with a crew of two. The same 80 hives moved individually would take two people a full day. Wheeled stands save time when you move one or two hives. Rolling a single hive to a new spot takes 5 minutes. Strapping it to a hand truck and carrying it takes 20 minutes and risks injury. For the hobby beekeeper who moves hives a few times per year, the wheeled stand is the faster option. ### Bee Stress and Colony Safety Both systems reduce bee stress compared to dismantling hives. The key is keeping the colony intact and minimizing vibration. Pallet moves with a forklift are smooth if the operator is careful. The hives stay strapped, and the bees remain in their boxes. The main risk is highway vibration, which can be mitigated with ratchet straps and foam padding under the pallet. Wheeled moves are gentler because they are slower and shorter. The main risk is tipping. A tall hive on a narrow wheeled stand can tip over on uneven ground. Look for stands with a wide wheelbase and low center of gravity. Lock the wheels before working on the hive. ## Step-by-Step Guide to Using a Pallet Hive Stand ### Step 1: Source and Prepare Pallets Select pallets that are in good condition. Look for solid deck boards, intact stringers, and no rot. Avoid pallets with broken boards or protruding nails. Heat-treated pallets marked with the IPPC logo are preferred because they are free of pests and mold. Do not use pallets that have been treated with methyl bromide, which is toxic to bees. If you are using wooden pallets, sand any rough edges and remove loose nails. Some beekeepers paint pallets with exterior latex paint to extend their life. Others apply a wood preservative. Both are optional but helpful in wet climates. ### Step 2: Attach Hive Straps Before you place hives on the pallet, install ratchet straps or hive straps around the pallet. The straps should run vertically around the hives and under the pallet deck. Position two straps per hive, one near the front and one near the back. This keeps the boxes from shifting during transport. Use ratchet straps rated for at least 500 pounds. Nylon straps with a ratchet buckle are standard. Do not use bungee cords, which stretch and allow boxes to shift. Tighten the straps until the boxes compress slightly but do not crush the frames. ### Step 3: Position Hives on the Pallet Place hives with their entrances facing outward. On a 40 by 48 pallet, you can fit four hives with entrances on the long sides. Leave a 2 to 3 inch gap between hives for airflow and strap clearance. Ensure the bottom boards sit flat on the pallet deck and do not overhang the edges. If you are moving hives with different heights, place the tallest hives in the center. This lowers the center of gravity and reduces tipping risk. Strap each hive individually, then add a cross strap over all four hives for extra security. ### Step 4: Move the Pallet Use a forklift or pallet jack to lift the pallet. Insert the forks fully into the pallet openings, then lift slowly. Check that the load is balanced before moving. If the pallet tilts forward or backward, reposition the forks. Move the pallet to the truck or trailer. When loading, place the pallet so the hives face the rear or side of the truck. This allows air to flow through the entrances during transport. Secure the pallet to the truck bed with ratchet straps attached to anchor points. ### Step 5: Unload and Position At the destination, unload the pallet with the forklift or pallet jack. Place the pallet on level ground. Remove the cross straps but leave the individual hive straps in place. Position the pallet so the hive entrances face the desired direction. If you are moving bees during the day, block the entrances with foam or grass before unloading to prevent bees from flying out and becoming disoriented. ## Step-by-Step Guide to Using a Wheeled Hive Stand ### Step 1: Choose the Right Stand Select a wheeled stand that matches your hive size and weight. Measure the footprint of your hive. A standard Langstroth bottom board is 16 by 22 inches. Your stand should be at least this size, preferably larger for stability. Check the weight rating. A single deep with bees and honey weighs 80 to 120 pounds. A double deep weighs 120 to 180 pounds. Choose a stand rated for at least 150 percent of your heaviest hive. Consider the wheel type. Hard casters work on concrete, pavement, and packed gravel. Pneumatic tires work on grass, dirt, and uneven ground. Locking wheels are essential for keeping the hive stationary when you are not moving it. Removable wheels allow you to convert the stand to a permanent hive stand after the move. ### Step 2: Assemble the Stand Follow the manufacturer's instructions to assemble the stand. Tighten all bolts and nuts securely. Check that the wheels spin freely and the locks engage properly. Grease the axles if the manufacturer recommends it. Place the stand in the desired location and confirm it is level. ### Step 3: Transfer the Hive to the Stand If the hive is already on a stationary stand, you need to transfer it. This is the most physically demanding step. Use a hive lifter or a second person to lift the hive onto the wheeled stand. If the hive is on a bottom board, you can often slide the wheeled stand underneath it. Position the hive so its weight is centered over the wheels. If the hive is too far forward or backward, the stand may tip. Adjust the hive until it sits squarely on the platform. Ensure the entrance faces the direction you want. ### Step 4: Secure the Hive Strap the hive to the wheeled stand using ratchet straps. Run one strap around the hive body and under the stand platform. Tighten until the hive is snug. This prevents the hive from sliding off during the move. If your stand has side rails or a lip, use them as additional support. ### Step 5: Roll the Hive to the New Location Lock the swivel casters before you start moving. Unlock them when you are ready to roll. Push the hive slowly, keeping both hands on the frame. Watch for obstacles such as rocks, roots, and hoses. Stop and clear the path before proceeding. If the ground is soft or uneven, use a plank or plywood sheet as a temporary path. This distributes the weight and prevents the wheels from sinking. Do not roll the hive over stairs or steep slopes. If you encounter a slope, get a second person to help and move the hive sideways. ### Step 6: Set Up at the Destination When you reach the new location, position the stand on level ground. Lock all wheels. Remove the ratchet straps. Check that the hive is stable and does not rock. If the ground is uneven, place shims under the stand legs or wheels to level the hive. ## When to Choose a Pallet Stand Choose a pallet hive stand when you are moving more than 10 hives at a time. The setup cost of pallets and handling equipment pays for itself quickly when you are moving dozens of colonies. Pallet stands are the only practical option for commercial pollination contracts, which require moving hundreds of hives in a short window. Choose a pallet stand when you already own a forklift, tractor with forks, or pallet jack. If you have the equipment, pallets are the cheapest and most efficient way to move hives. A used pallet costs less than a cup of coffee at a commercial coffee shop. Choose a pallet stand when you are moving hives long distances. Palletized hives load onto trucks quickly and secure firmly. The hives stay together as a unit, which reduces the risk of boxes separating during transport. Choose a pallet stand when you need to stack hives. Palletized hives can be stacked two high on a truck bed, doubling your transport capacity. This is essential for large-scale operations where truck space is limited. ## When to Choose a Wheeled Stand Choose a wheeled hive stand when you are moving 1 to 5 hives. The lower cost and simpler logistics make wheeled stands the practical choice for hobby and sideline beekeepers. You can move a hive by yourself in minutes without any special equipment. Choose a wheeled stand when you are moving hives within your own property. Repositioning hives for better sun, wind protection, or neighbor relations is a common task. A wheeled stand lets you do this alone, without waiting for help or renting equipment. Choose a wheeled stand when your apiary is in a location that a forklift cannot reach. Backyard apiaries, garden plots, and hillside locations often have narrow paths or soft ground that prevents pallet handling equipment. A wheeled stand with pneumatic tires can navigate these areas. Choose a wheeled stand when you need a permanent hive stand that can also move. Many wheeled stands convert to stationary stands by removing the wheels or locking them. This gives you the best of both worlds: a stable platform for daily beekeeping and the ability to move the hive when needed. ## Common Mistakes with Movable Hive Stands ### Strapping Hives Too Tightly Ratchet straps can crush [hive boxes](/knowledge/animal-farming/apiculture/hive-boxes-sizes-assembly-and-maintenance) if over-tightened. The boxes are held together by the weight of the bees and honey, not by compression. Tighten the straps until the boxes do not shift, then stop. Over-tightening can crack wooden boxes and damage plastic frames. Check the straps after 10 minutes of driving and re-tighten if needed. ### Moving Hives During the Day Bees that are moved during the day will fly out of the hive and return to the old location. This is called drifting and it kills bees. Always move hives at night or early morning when all foragers are inside. If you must move during the day, block the entrances with foam, grass, or screen mesh. Remove the blocks after the hive is in its new location and the bees have settled. ### Not Leveling the Hive A hive that tilts forward, backward, or sideways causes problems. Bees build comb perpendicular to gravity. A tilted hive produces crooked comb, which is hard to inspect and can collapse. Tilted hives also have trouble with moisture drainage. Always level your hive stand before placing hives on it. Use a carpenter's level and shims as needed. ### Ignoring Wheel Maintenance Wheeled stands fail when wheels seize, bearings rust, or tires go flat. Check the wheels before each move. Grease the axles every few months. Replace worn tires before they fail. A seized wheel during a move can tip the hive and release thousands of angry bees. ### Using Pallets with Pests Wooden pallets can harbor pests, including small hive beetles and wax moths. Inspect pallets before use. Look for beetle larvae, moth webbing, and mold. Do not use pallets that show signs of infestation. Consider plastic pallets, which do not harbor pests and are easier to clean. ### Moving Hives in Extreme Heat or Cold Bees are sensitive to temperature. Moving hives in extreme heat can cook the colony, especially if the hives are sealed for transport. Move hives in mild weather when possible. If you must move in summer, do it at night and provide ventilation. In winter, moving hives can break the cluster and kill the colony. Avoid winter moves unless absolutely necessary. ### Not Securing the Load in the Truck A pallet that shifts during transport can crush hives and injure bees. Always secure pallets to the truck bed with ratchet straps. Use at least two straps per pallet, crossed for stability. Check the straps at every stop. Do not rely on the weight of the pallet to keep it in place. ## Decision Thresholds for Choosing a Movable Hive Stand ### Number of Hives If you have 5 or fewer hives and move them occasionally, a wheeled stand is the right choice. The cost is low and you do not need heavy equipment. If you have 10 or more hives and move them regularly, invest in pallet stands and a pallet jack or forklift. The time savings will pay for the equipment. ### Move Frequency If you move hives once or twice per year for forage or yard management, wheeled stands are sufficient. If you move hives monthly for pollination contracts, pallet stands are essential. The setup time for palletizing is worth it when you are moving frequently. ### Terrain and Access Evaluate your apiary locations. If you can drive a forklift or pallet jack to every hive, pallet stands are viable. If any hive is in a location with narrow access or soft ground, you need wheeled stands for those hives. Many beekeepers use a mix of both systems. ### Budget A wheeled stand costs 50 to 200 dollars. A pallet jack costs 300 to 800 dollars. A used forklift costs 3,000 to 10,000 dollars. If your total hive count is under 20, the forklift investment is hard to justify. If you are running 100 hives, the forklift pays for itself in reduced labor within one season. ### Growth Plans Consider your future plans. If you are expanding from 5 to 50 hives, invest in pallet stands now. The equipment will be needed soon. If you are downsizing or staying at a small scale, wheeled stands are the better use of money. ## Monitoring and Recordkeeping for Moved Hives ### Post-Move Inspection After moving hives, wait 24 to 48 hours before opening the hives. This gives the bees time to settle and reorient. When you inspect, check for the following: - Queen presence and egg laying - Brood pattern and health - Food stores (honey and pollen) - Signs of stress, such as dead bees at the entrance - Comb damage from the move Record the date of the move, the destination, and the condition of each hive. This information helps you track colony health over time and identify problems early. ### Foraging Reorientation Bees need time to learn the new location. Place a small branch or clump of grass at the hive entrance to force bees to reorient. This reduces drifting and fighting between colonies. Leave the obstruction for 24 hours after the move. ### Monitoring for Disease Moving hives can spread disease if you do not inspect before the move. Check each hive for signs of American foulbrood, European foulbrood, and varroa mites before moving. If you find disease symptoms, treat the hive or exclude it from the move. Moving diseased hives contaminates the new location and puts other colonies at risk. ### Recordkeeping Template Keep a simple log for each hive. Include the following fields: - Hive ID number - Date moved - Origin location - Destination location - Number of boxes and frames - Queen status (marked or unmarked, age) - Health notes - Weight before and after the move This log helps you make decisions about hive placement, forage access, and colony health over multiple seasons. ## When to Call a Veterinarian or Extension Agent Most hive moves go smoothly, but some situations require professional help. Contact your veterinarian or a state apiculturist if you observe any of the following: - Large numbers of dead bees at the entrance or on the ground after a move - Foul odor coming from the hive, which may indicate American foulbrood - Bees unable to fly or crawling in circles, which may indicate pesticide exposure - Sudden colony collapse within a week of the move - Signs of pest infestation, such as wax moth webbing or small hive beetle larvae Your veterinarian can help you diagnose diseases and recommend treatments. Your state extension service or apiculturist can advise on local regulations, pesticide risks, and best practices for apiary placement. If you suspect pesticide poisoning, contact your state department of agriculture immediately. They can test dead bees and help you identify the source. ## Frequently Asked Questions ### How many hives can I put on a standard pallet? A standard 40 by 48 inch pallet holds four Langstroth hives placed side by side. If you use half pallets, which are 40 by 24 inches, you can hold two hives. Some beekeepers place five nuc boxes on a full pallet, but four full-size hives is the safe maximum. Overloading a pallet makes it unstable and hard to lift with a pallet jack. ### Can I use a hand truck instead of a wheeled hive stand? A hand truck can move a single hive short distances, but it is not ideal. Hand trucks require you to lift the hive onto the truck, which is hard on your back. The hive can also shift and tip during the move. A purpose-built wheeled hive stand with a wide platform and locking wheels is safer and easier to use. ### Do I need to strap hives to a pallet if I am only moving them across the yard? Yes, always strap hives to the pallet, even for short moves. A hive can slide off a pallet when you lift it with a pallet jack or when the pallet tilts. Straps also keep the boxes aligned and prevent the colony from separating. The cost of a strap is far less than the cost of a broken hive and an angry swarm. ### How long should I wait before opening hives after a move? Wait at least 24 hours, preferably 48 hours, before opening hives after a move. The bees need time to settle and reorient to the new location. Opening the hive too soon increases stress and can cause the colony to abscond. When you do inspect, work quickly and gently. ### Can I move hives in winter with a wheeled stand? Moving hives in winter is risky. The cluster breaks apart when the hive is moved, and bees can die from cold exposure. If you must move a hive in winter, do it on a mild day above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Move the hive gently and avoid opening it. Place the hive in a sheltered location with wind protection. ### What is the best way to move hives long distances? The best way to move hives long distances is on pallets with a forklift. Strap each hive to the pallet with ratchet straps. Load the pallets onto a truck or trailer with the entrances facing the rear or side. Secure the pallets with additional straps. Drive slowly, especially on rough roads. Move at night or early morning when all foragers are inside. ### How do I keep bees from drifting to the old location after a move? Bees that were foraging at the old location will return there if the move happens during the day. To prevent this, move hives at night or early morning. After the move, place a small branch or grass clump at the entrance to force the bees to reorient. Leave the obstruction for 24 hours. This simple step reduces drifting and fighting between colonies. ### Are plastic pallets better than wooden pallets for beehives? Plastic pallets have several advantages. They do not rot, absorb moisture, or harbor pests. They are easier to clean and sanitize. They last longer than wooden pallets, which offsets their higher initial cost. The main downside is cost, which is 30 to 60 dollars per pallet compared to 10 to 20 dollars for a new wooden pallet. For commercial operations, the durability of plastic pallets often justifies the cost. ## Related Farming Guides This section will be populated with related farming guides and resources. Check back for updates on beekeeping equipment, hive management, and pollination services. ## Related Clinical & Scientific Guides * [Waste Management in the Apiary: Culling, Dead Hives, and Debris Disposal](/knowledge/animal-farming/apiculture/waste-management-apiary-culling-dead-hives-debris-disposal) * [Package Bee Production: Business Planning and Colony Establishment](/knowledge/animal-farming/apiculture/package-bee-production-business-planning-and-colony-establishment) * [Siting an Apiary: Legal Setbacks, Neighbor Relations, and Flight Paths](/knowledge/animal-farming/apiculture/siting-apiary-legal-setbacks-neighbor-relations-flight-paths) ## References - FAO Bee Health: https://www.fao.org/pollination/en/ - USDA APHIS Honey Bee Health: https://www.aphis.usda.gov/livestock-poultry-disease/honeybees - Honey Bee Health Coalition: https://honeybeehealthcoalition.org/ - FAO Animal Production and Health: https://www.fao.org/animal-production/en/ - WOAH (World Organisation for Animal Health): https://www.woah.org/en/home/ > This article is educational and is not a substitute for veterinary diagnosis, treatment, public-health guidance, or regulatory reporting.