# Rabbit Housing Systems: Cages, Hutches, and Colony Pens ## Key Takeaways - **Wire cages** offer superior sanitation and labor efficiency due to their mesh floors allowing waste to fall through, making them standard for commercial meat and laboratory operations, but necessitate resting boards to prevent pododermatitis (sore hocks). - **Wooden hutches** provide better thermal insulation and a sense of security, particularly beneficial in colder climates, but their porous nature makes thorough sanitization challenging and wood degradation requires periodic replacement. - **Colony pens** facilitate natural rabbit behaviors and social interaction, potentially improving welfare, but carry elevated risks of inter-rabbit aggression, rapid disease transmission, and uncontrolled reproduction if not meticulously managed. - **Space requirements** are critical: a breeding doe needs a minimum of 8 sq ft in a cage/hutch, while colony pens require 10-12 sq ft per adult rabbit to mitigate stress and aggression. - **Predator protection** is paramount across all systems, mandating the use of 1/2-inch hardware cloth, not chicken wire, and elevating cages/hutches at least 2 feet off the ground. - **Environmental controls** are vital, with rabbits thriving between 50-70°F; temperatures above 85°F induce heat stress, necessitating shade and ventilation, while adequate airflow is crucial to prevent respiratory issues from ammonia buildup. --- Choosing the right housing system for your rabbits is one of the most important decisions you will make as a rabbit keeper. The structure you select affects daily labor, animal health, breeding success, and your bottom line. This guide compares the three main rabbit housing systems: wire cages, wooden hutches, and colony pens. It covers the strengths and weaknesses of each approach, provides step-by-step setup guidance, and helps you match a housing style to your specific goals, whether you raise rabbits for meat, fiber, show, or as breeding stock. This information is intended for small-scale farmers, homesteaders, and commercial producers who want a practical framework for evaluating their housing options. ## At a Glance - **Wire cages** offer the best sanitation, easiest cleaning, and highest stocking density, making them the standard for commercial meat and laboratory operations. - **Wooden hutches** provide better insulation and a more natural environment but are harder to sanitize and require more maintenance. - **Colony pens** allow rabbits to express natural behaviors and require less daily cleaning, but they come with higher risks of fighting, disease spread, and uncontrolled breeding. - **Climate matters**. Wire cages work well in warm, dry climates. Hutches and colonies suit colder regions better. Always provide shade and ventilation regardless of system. - **Space requirements**: A breeding doe needs at least 8 square feet of floor space in a cage or hutch. Colony pens need a minimum of 10 to 12 square feet per adult rabbit. - **Predator protection is non-negotiable** in every system. Use hardware cloth with 1/2 inch or smaller mesh, not chicken wire. - **Elevate wire cages** at least 2 feet off the ground to simplify cleaning and protect rabbits from ground-dwelling predators. - **Quarantine new animals** for 30 days before introducing them to an existing herd, regardless of housing type. ## Understanding the Three Main Housing Systems Rabbit housing falls into three broad categories, each with a distinct design philosophy. Your choice depends on your production goals, available labor, climate, and budget. No single system is perfect for every situation, and many successful operations use a combination of approaches for different stages of production. ### Wire Cages Wire cages are the most common housing system in commercial [rabbit production](/knowledge/animal-farming/rabbits/rabbit-welfare-and-enrichment-meeting-behavioral-needs-in-production-systems). They consist of galvanized wire mesh floors and walls, typically supported by a wooden or metal frame. The wire floor allows urine and feces to fall through into a collection tray or onto the ground below. This design keeps rabbits clean and dry, reduces the risk of parasitic infections, and makes sanitation straightforward. The standard mesh size for cage floors is 1/2 inch by 1 inch in the main floor area, with a smaller mesh size of 1/2 inch by 1/2 inch in the resting area or nest box. The smaller mesh helps prevent sore hocks, a painful condition caused by pressure on the rabbits' feet. Wall mesh is typically 1 inch by 2 inches for adult rabbits, but use 1/2 inch by 1 inch for grow-out cages to prevent babies from escaping. Wire cages range in size from compact units for small breeds to large pens for heavy breeds. A typical commercial cage for a medium breed doe measures 30 inches deep by 36 inches wide by 18 inches high. This provides roughly 7.5 square feet of floor space, which meets the minimum recommendations for a doe with a litter. The primary advantage of wire cages is sanitation. Waste falls away from the rabbit, keeping fur clean and reducing the risk of flystrike and bacterial infections. Cleaning involves scraping the collection tray or hosing down the cage, a process that takes minutes per cage. Wire cages also allow excellent airflow, which is critical in warm climates where rabbits are prone to heat stress. The disadvantages include the initial cost of quality galvanized wire, the need for a sheltered location, and the lack of environmental enrichment. Rabbits in wire cages cannot express natural digging or burrowing behaviors, which can lead to stereotypic behaviors such as bar biting or excessive grooming. You must also provide a solid resting board for rabbits to stand on to prevent sore hocks. ### Wooden Hutches Wooden hutches are the traditional housing system for backyard rabbits. They consist of a wooden frame with wire mesh windows and a solid floor, often with a small enclosed sleeping area attached to a larger exercise area. Hutches are typically raised off the ground on legs to protect rabbits from predators and dampness. The classic hutch design includes a solid wooden floor in the sleeping compartment and a wire floor in the exercise area. Some designs use a completely solid floor with bedding that is changed regularly. The solid walls provide excellent insulation against cold and wind, making hutches a good choice for cooler climates. Hutches offer rabbits more protection from the elements than wire cages. The enclosed sleeping area gives rabbits a sense of security and a place to retreat from noise and activity. This design works well for a single rabbit or a bonded pair kept as pets or for small-scale meat production. The main drawback of hutches is sanitation. Wood is porous and absorbs urine, which leads to ammonia buildup and bacterial growth over time. You cannot effectively disinfect a wooden hutch the way you can a wire cage. The wood eventually degrades from moisture and requires periodic replacement. Cleaning a hutch involves removing soiled bedding, scrubbing surfaces, and allowing everything to dry fully, which is labor-intensive compared to wire cages. Hutches also take up more space per rabbit than wire cages because of the solid floor area and the need for a separate exercise space. The wooden construction is heavier and more difficult to move than a wire cage, making it harder to relocate rabbits to fresh pasture or clean ground. ### Colony Pens Colony pens house rabbits together in groups on a solid or partially solid floor. This system mimics the natural social structure of rabbits more closely than individual cages. Colony housing can take place indoors in a barn or outdoors in a protected pen with a floor of dirt, straw, or concrete. Colony pens range from simple floor pens in a barn to elaborate outdoor setups with underground burrows. The key feature is that rabbits have space to move, dig, hop, and interact with each other. This system is gaining popularity among small-scale farmers who prioritize animal welfare and natural behaviors. The benefits of colony housing include improved animal welfare, reduced stereotypic behaviors, and less daily cleaning if the pen uses a deep litter system. Rabbits in colonies can exercise more, which improves muscle tone and bone strength. For meat producers, this can result in better carcass quality. The challenges of colony housing are significant. Rabbits are territorial animals, and introducing new individuals can trigger fighting that results in serious injuries or death. You must carefully manage group composition, typically housing does together in stable groups and keeping bucks separate. Uncontrolled breeding is a constant concern if you house intact males and females together, so you must separate animals by sex or accept that you will have continuous litters. Disease control is also more difficult in colony housing. If one rabbit becomes ill, the pathogen can spread quickly through the group. Parasite loads are higher in dirt-floored pens, and you must implement a regular deworming program. Cleaning a colony pen involves removing soiled bedding, adding fresh litter, and periodically completely stripping and disinfecting the enclosure. ## Choosing Between Hutch and Cage The decision between a hutch and a cage comes down to your priorities for sanitation, climate protection, and animal welfare. For most commercial producers, wire cages win on sanitation and labor efficiency. For small-scale keepers who raise a few rabbits and want to provide a more natural environment, hutches offer advantages in cold weather and aesthetic appeal. Consider your climate first. If you live in an area with hot summers, wire cages in a well-ventilated barn are the safest choice. Rabbits tolerate cold much better than heat, but they need protection from wind and moisture. In cold climates, a hutch with solid walls and a deep bedding area provides better insulation than a wire cage. Consider your labor availability. Wire cages require daily feeding and watering but minimal cleaning if you use drop trays. Hutches need more frequent bedding changes and scrubbing to control ammonia and bacteria. If you travel frequently or have limited time for chores, wire cages are more forgiving. Consider your breeding goals. Wire cages allow you to track individual production, control breeding timing, and manage each doe's health independently. Hutches work for single rabbits or pairs but make it difficult to manage multiple breeding animals separately. Many successful operations use a hybrid approach. They keep breeding does in wire cages for sanitation and individual management, then move weaned grow-outs to a colony pen or hutch system where they have more space to exercise. This approach captures the strengths of each system while minimizing their weaknesses. ## Setting Up a Wire Cage System A well-designed wire cage system requires careful attention to frame construction, mesh selection, and environmental controls. Follow these steps to set up a functional and safe wire cage system. ### Step 1: Select the Right Mesh Choose galvanized wire mesh with the appropriate gauge and opening size. Floor mesh should be 14-gauge wire with 1/2 inch by 1 inch openings. This size allows waste to pass through while providing enough support for rabbit feet. For the resting board, use 1/2 inch by 1/2 inch mesh to reduce pressure points. Wall mesh can be lighter, typically 16-gauge wire with 1 inch by 2 inch openings for adult rabbits. For grow-out cages housing young rabbits, use 1/2 inch by 1 inch mesh to prevent escape. Do not use chicken wire for any part of the cage. It is too thin and rabbits can chew through it. ### Step 2: Build or Purchase the Frame The frame must support the weight of the rabbits and withstand daily use. Use treated lumber, angle iron, or heavy-duty PVC pipe for the frame. If using wood, treat it with a non-toxic sealant to resist moisture and urine damage. The frame should elevate the cages at least 2 feet off the ground to allow air circulation and simplify cleaning. Space the frame supports no more than 4 feet apart to prevent sagging. Use heavy-duty casters on the frame legs if you need to move the cages for cleaning or pasture rotation. ### Step 3: Install Drop Trays or Manure Management Decide how you will collect waste. Drop trays under each cage simplify manure collection but require regular emptying. A manure belt system under a row of cages automates waste removal but adds significant cost. If you raise rabbits on pasture, you can skip trays and let waste fall to the ground, moving the cages periodically to distribute nutrients. If using drop trays, choose galvanized steel or heavy plastic that resists corrosion. Empty trays at least twice per week in warm weather to control flies and odor. ### Step 4: Provide Resting Boards Install a solid resting board in each cage to give rabbits a break from the wire floor. A piece of untreated wood, plastic cutting board, or rubber mat measuring about 8 inches by 12 inches works well. Secure the board to the cage wall so it does not shift. Replace boards when they become soiled or chewed. ### Step 5: Position Cages for Ventilation and Shade Place cages in a well-ventilated barn or under a roof with open sides. Rabbits need good airflow to prevent respiratory issues, but they also need protection from direct sun and rain. In hot climates, orient the cage row north-south to minimize direct sun exposure. Use shade cloth or misting systems in extreme heat. ### Step 6: Set Up Feeding and Watering Install J-feeder or hanging feeders that attach to the front of the cage. These feeders reduce waste and keep feed clean. Use automatic nipple waterers or crocks that attach to the cage wall. Check water systems daily to ensure they are working properly, especially in freezing weather. ## Setting Up a Hutch System Hutches require more planning around materials and placement because the wooden construction demands protection from moisture. Follow these steps to build or install a hutch that will last. ### Step 1: Choose Rot-Resistant Wood Use cedar, redwood, or pressure-treated lumber for the frame and floor. These woods resist rot and insect damage. Avoid plywood for the floor because it delaminates when exposed to moisture. Use exterior-grade screws and galvanized hinges for all hardware. ### Step 2: Design the Two-Compartment Layout Create a hutch with two connected compartments. The sleeping area should be enclosed on three sides with a solid floor and a small door for access. The exercise area should have a wire floor or solid floor with bedding, and at least one side of wire mesh for ventilation and light. The sleeping area should be about 2 feet by 2 feet for a medium breed. The exercise area should be at least 2 feet by 4 feet. The total floor space for a single rabbit should be at least 8 square feet. ### Step 3: Elevate the Hutch Mount the hutch on legs at least 3 feet off the ground. This height protects rabbits from ground predators like foxes and raccoons, improves airflow under the structure, and makes cleaning easier. Place the legs in concrete footings or metal predator guards to prevent digging predators from accessing the hutch. ### Step 4: Install Hardware Cloth Windows Use 1/2 inch hardware cloth for all window openings. This mesh size keeps out predators and prevents rabbits from escaping. Staple the mesh to the inside of the frame so rabbits cannot push it out. Reinforce the edges with wooden battens to prevent chewing. ### Step 5: Create a Removable Floor or Tray Make the exercise area floor removable or install a pull-out tray beneath a wire floor. This design simplifies cleaning. If you use a solid floor, cover it with a thick layer of absorbent bedding and plan to replace it completely at least once per week. ### Step 6: Position for Weather Protection Place hutches facing south or east to capture morning sun and block prevailing winter winds. Provide a roof overhang of at least 6 inches to keep rain off the front of the hutch. In summer, position hutches under shade trees or install shade cloth to prevent overheating. ## Setting Up a Colony Pen Colony pens require the most planning because you are creating a small ecosystem. The setup must balance space, drainage, social dynamics, and predator protection. ### Step 1: Determine Pen Size and Stocking Rate A colony pen should provide at least 10 to 12 square feet of floor space per adult rabbit. For a group of 10 does, plan for a pen of at least 120 square feet. More space is always better because it reduces aggression and allows rabbits to establish territories. For outdoor pens, plan for 15 square feet per rabbit to account for the space lost to shelters and feeders. Indoor pens can use the lower end of the range because you control the environment more tightly. ### Step 2: Install Predator-Proof Fencing Use 1/2 inch hardware cloth for the walls of the pen. Bury the fencing at least 12 inches into the ground to prevent digging predators from entering. Add a 12-inch outward-facing apron of wire at the base of the fence to deter animals that dig along the perimeter. Cover the top of the pen with wire or netting to protect against hawks, owls, and raccoons. The fence should be at least 3 feet high for most breeds. For jumping breeds like the Belgian Hare, use 4-foot fencing. ### Step 3: Create Shelter Areas Provide multiple shelters within the pen so rabbits can hide and escape from aggression. These can be wooden boxes, plastic dog houses, or covered areas with solid roofs. Place shelters at various points in the pen so a rabbit can always reach cover quickly. Each shelter should have at least two entrances so a rabbit cannot be trapped inside by an aggressor. ### Step 4: Design the Floor You have three options for the pen floor: dirt, concrete, or deep litter. Dirt floors allow rabbits to dig and express natural behaviors, but they complicate cleaning and parasite control. Concrete floors are easy to sanitize but hard on rabbit feet and require daily cleaning. Deep litter systems use a thick layer of straw or wood shavings over a solid or dirt floor, which composts in place and requires less frequent cleaning. For most small-scale operations, a deep litter system offers the best balance. Start with a 6-inch layer of straw or shavings over a well-drained base. Add fresh bedding weekly and remove the entire contents every 2 to 3 months. ### Step 5: Manage Group Composition Start your colony with young rabbits that have grown up together. Littermates or rabbits introduced before 12 weeks of age form stable groups. Introduce new rabbits gradually through a divider that allows visual and olfactory contact for several days before allowing physical contact. Keep only one mature buck per colony unless you have extensive experience managing breeding groups. Intact bucks will fight for dominance, and the injuries can be severe. In most cases, keep bucks in separate cages and introduce a buck into the colony only for supervised breeding. ### Step 6: Plan for Breeding Control If you keep intact does and bucks together, you will have continuous litters. Decide whether this is acceptable for your operation. For controlled breeding, separate does by sex at weaning and reintroduce a buck only when you want new litters. Alternatively, use a colored harness or marking system to track which does have been bred. Provide nest boxes for pregnant does. Place the nest box in a quiet corner of the pen and fill it with straw. Check nest boxes daily and record birth dates and litter sizes. ## Managing the Environment in Any System Regardless of which housing system you choose, environmental management determines rabbit health and productivity. Pay attention to temperature, humidity, ventilation, and light. ### Temperature Control Rabbits are most comfortable between 50 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. They tolerate cold better than heat. Temperatures above 85 degrees cause heat stress, which can be fatal. Provide shade, ventilation, and access to cool water during hot weather. In extreme heat, use frozen water bottles in cages or misting systems in barns. In cold weather, provide deep bedding in hutches and colony pens. Wire cages need a windbreak and extra bedding in the nest box. Rabbits can handle freezing temperatures if they are dry and protected from drafts. ### Ventilation Ammonia from urine buildup damages rabbit respiratory systems. Ensure continuous airflow through the housing area. In barns, use ridge vents, side curtains, or exhaust fans to move air. In hutches, keep at least one side open to the outside. In colony pens, ensure the shelter areas have cross-ventilation. ### Lighting Rabbits need about 14 to 16 hours of light per day for optimal breeding performance. In winter, supplement natural light with artificial lighting in the barn. Use a timer to provide consistent light cycles. Avoid continuous bright light, which can stress rabbits. ### Humidity High humidity combined with poor ventilation leads to respiratory disease and fur problems. Aim for a relative humidity between 40 and 60 percent. In humid climates, increase ventilation and avoid overcrowding. ## Common Mistakes in Rabbit Housing Many housing problems stem from avoidable errors. Here are the most common mistakes and how to prevent them. ### Using the Wrong Mesh Size Chicken wire or hardware cloth with openings larger than 1 inch allows predators to reach into the cage and injure rabbits. It also allows young rabbits to escape. Always use 1/2 inch mesh for the floor and predator-facing walls. ### Overcrowding Too many rabbits in a cage or pen leads to stress, aggression, and disease. Follow the minimum space recommendations and err on the side of more space. A doe with a litter needs additional room to move without stepping on her kits. ### Poor Drainage in Colony Pens Colony pens on poorly drained ground become muddy and unsanitary. Choose a site with good drainage or build up the pen floor with gravel and sand before adding bedding. Redirect downspouts away from the pen area. ### Ignoring Predator Pressure Raccoons and dogs can open simple latches and chew through thin wire. Use secure locking mechanisms on all cage and hutch doors. Inspect fencing regularly for holes or weak spots. ### Neglecting Nest Box Management A doe needs a clean, dry nest box with adequate bedding. Check nest boxes daily and remove soiled bedding. A wet nest box leads to kit mortality and can discourage the doe from using the box. ### Skipping Quarantine Introducing new rabbits directly into your herd risks spreading diseases like pasteurellosis and coccidiosis. Always quarantine new animals for 30 days in a separate building or cage before introducing them to existing stock. ## Monitoring and Recordkeeping Good recordkeeping helps you identify problems early and make better management decisions. Track the following for each rabbit or group. ### Individual Records For breeding stock, maintain records on a card attached to each cage or in a digital spreadsheet. Record the rabbit's identification number, breed, birth date, parentage, and vaccination history. For does, track breeding dates, kindling dates, litter size, and weaning weights. For bucks, track breeding activity and any health issues. ### Group Records For colony pens, maintain a log of group composition, introductions, injuries, and treatments. Record the dates of bedding changes and pen cleaning. Track feed consumption and adjust rations based on group size and growth rates. ### Health Monitoring Check each rabbit daily. Look for signs of illness including reduced appetite, lethargy, diarrhea, nasal discharge, and fur loss. Weigh grow-out rabbits weekly to track growth rates. Monitor water consumption, as a sudden decrease often signals illness. ### Environmental Records Record daily high and low temperatures in the housing area. Track humidity levels and note any ventilation problems. This data helps you identify patterns and make adjustments before problems become serious. ## When to Call a Veterinarian or Extension Agent You should have a relationship with a veterinarian who treats rabbits before you need one. Many rural veterinarians have limited rabbit experience, so identify a qualified practitioner in advance. Call a veterinarian immediately if you observe any of the following: - Sudden death of multiple rabbits in a short period - Severe diarrhea, especially in young rabbits - Difficulty breathing or open-mouth breathing - Inability to urinate or defecate - Severe injuries from fighting - A doe that has not eaten for more than 24 hours after kindling - Lumps or abscesses under the skin - Head tilt, seizures, or other neurological signs Contact your local cooperative extension agent for advice on housing design, ventilation, and general management. Extension agents can also help you interpret diagnostic test results and connect you with regional rabbit production specialists. They are a free resource and often have publications specific to your climate and production goals. For reportable diseases, contact your state veterinarian or the USDA APHIS office. Certain rabbit diseases, including tularemia and [rabbit hemorrhagic disease](/knowledge/veterinary-medicine/small-mammal-care/rabbit-hemorrhagic-disease-rhdv2-prevention-outbreak-management), require reporting to animal health authorities. ## Frequently Asked Questions ### How much space does a breeding doe need in a wire cage? A medium breed doe needs a minimum of 8 square feet of floor space. A cage measuring 30 inches by 36 inches provides 7.5 square feet, which is acceptable for most medium breeds. Larger breeds like Flemish Giants need 10 to 12 square feet. Always provide extra space when the doe has a litter, either by using a larger cage or moving the litter to a grow-out cage earlier. ### Can I keep two rabbits together in one cage? You can keep two does together if they were raised together and have compatible temperaments. Never house two intact bucks together, as they will fight. A neutered buck can live with one or more does, but intact breeding pairs should only be together for supervised mating. In colony housing, stable groups of does can coexist, but you must watch for aggression and be ready to separate individuals that do not get along. ### What is the best flooring for a [rabbit hutch](/knowledge/veterinary-medicine/small-mammal-care/rabbit-housing-indoor-vs-outdoor-hutches-and-enrichment)? The best flooring depends on your cleaning routine and climate. A wire floor over a drop tray offers the easiest sanitation and keeps rabbits dry. A solid wood floor with deep bedding provides better insulation in cold climates but requires more frequent cleaning. Many keepers use a combination: solid floor in the sleeping area and wire floor in the exercise area. ### How often should I clean a rabbit cage? Clean wire cages with drop trays at least twice per week. Scrape the trays and replace soiled bedding in nest boxes daily. Thoroughly scrub and disinfect cages between batches of rabbits or when you move new animals in. Clean hutches weekly by removing soiled bedding and scrubbing surfaces. Colony pens with deep litter need spot cleaning daily and complete bedding replacement every 2 to 3 months. ### Are colony pens more humane than cages? Colony pens allow rabbits to express more natural behaviors, including digging, hopping, and social interaction. Many animal welfare experts consider this an improvement over individual cages. However, colony housing introduces risks of aggression, injury, and disease spread. A well-managed colony with ample space and stable groups can provide good welfare. A poorly managed colony can cause more suffering than a clean, well-maintained cage system. ### How do I protect outdoor rabbits from predators? Use 1/2 inch hardware cloth for all fencing and cage walls. Bury fencing at least 12 inches deep and add a wire apron extending outward from the base. Secure all doors with sturdy latches that raccoons cannot open. Cover the top of outdoor pens with wire or netting. Elevate cages and hutches at least 2 feet off the ground. Bring rabbits indoors or into a secure barn at night if predator pressure is high in your area. ### What temperature is too hot for rabbits? Rabbits experience heat stress when temperatures exceed 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Humidity makes heat stress worse. Provide shade, ventilation, and cool water when temperatures rise above 80 degrees. In extreme heat, freeze plastic water bottles and place them in cages for rabbits to lean against. Mist the outside of cages or run fans to increase evaporative cooling. Never leave rabbits in direct sun during hot weather. ### Should I use a deep litter system in my colony pen? Deep litter works well if you manage it correctly. Start with a 6-inch layer of straw or wood shavings over a well-drained base. Add fresh bedding weekly and turn the litter to promote composting. Replace the entire contents every 2 to 3 months. Deep litter reduces daily cleaning labor and provides insulation in winter. However, it requires careful moisture management to prevent ammonia buildup and fly problems. If the litter becomes wet or smells strongly of ammonia, replace it immediately. ## Related Farming Guides This section will be populated with links to other farming guides on this site. Check back for additional resources on rabbit nutrition, breeding management, and disease prevention. ## Related Clinical & Scientific Guides * [Water Buffalo Genetic Improvement and Breeding Programs](/knowledge/animal-farming/alternative-livestock/water-buffalo-genetic-improvement-breeding-programs) * [Camel Farm Biosecurity: Disease Prevention and Quarantine Protocols](/knowledge/animal-farming/alternative-livestock/camel-farm-biosecurity-disease-prevention-quarantine-protocols) * [Water Buffalo Farm Equipment and Infrastructure](/knowledge/animal-farming/alternative-livestock/water-buffalo-farm-equipment-infrastructure) ## References - [FAO Animal Production](https://www.fao.org/animal-production/en/) - [USDA APHIS](https://www.aphis.usda.gov/) - [FAO Animal Production and Health](https://www.fao.org/animal-production/en/) - [WOAH (World Organisation for Animal Health)](https://www.woah.org/en/home/) > This article is educational and is not a substitute for veterinary diagnosis, treatment, public-health guidance, or regulatory reporting.