# Flight Pen Construction for Pheasants: Materials and Layout ## Key Takeaways - **Minimum Flight Pen Dimensions and Space Allocation:** A flight pen for up to 50 adult pheasants should be at least 100 feet long by 20 feet wide by 6 feet high, providing approximately 40 square feet per bird. For breeding stock, increase space to 60-80 square feet per pair to mitigate aggression. - **Structural Integrity and Material Selection:** Frame materials should include pressure-treated lumber (15-20 year lifespan), galvanized steel pipe, or aluminum, chosen based on budget and climate. Netting requires 1-inch or 1.5-inch mesh, with heavier gauge nylon recommended for the top to withstand snow load and bird impact. - **Predator Deterrence and Biosecurity:** Implement a buried wire apron (12-18 inches deep and outward) around the pen's perimeter to prevent subterranean predator entry. The lower 24-36 inches of walls should utilize heavier gauge wire mesh (e.g., 19-gauge hardware cloth) to resist ground predators. Maintain a minimum 100-foot separation from other poultry to reduce disease transmission risk, as pheasants are susceptible to avian influenza and fowl cholera. - **Environmental Design for Optimal Development:** A peaked or sloped roof is critical for shedding snow and rain, preventing structural collapse and maintaining dry conditions. Well-drained soil is paramount to prevent foot problems and disease; avoid sites prone to standing water. Incorporate low perches and cover (brush piles, artificial structures) to facilitate natural behaviors and reduce inter-bird aggression. - **Access and Maintenance for Operational Efficiency:** Double doors at each end, sized for wheelbarrows or ATVs, are essential for efficient cleaning and feed delivery. Regular daily checks for bird health, netting integrity, and predator activity, along with weekly and seasonal maintenance, are crucial for long-term pen functionality and flock welfare. --- Raising pheasants for release, breeding, or meat production requires a flight pen that gives birds room to develop strong wing muscles and natural behaviors. A well built flight pen also protects birds from predators, harsh weather, and escape. This guide covers the full process of planning, sizing, building, and maintaining a pheasant flight pen. It is written for small farm operators, hobbyists raising a few dozen birds, and commercial game bird producers who need practical construction details they can apply on the ground. ## At a Glance - **Minimum recommended size for a small flock**: 100 feet long by 20 feet wide by 6 feet high for up to 50 adult pheasants. Larger is almost always better. - **Primary frame materials**: Pressure treated lumber, galvanized steel pipe, or aluminum. Choose based on budget, local climate, and expected lifespan. - **Netting requirements**: 1 inch or 1.5 inch mesh for sides and top. Use heavier gauge netting on the top to handle snow load and bird impact. - **Predator protection**: Bury wire apron 12 to 18 inches outward from the base, or extend netting 18 inches underground along the walls. - **Roof design**: A peaked or sloped roof prevents snow accumulation and gives birds height for flying. Flat roofs cause problems in most climates. - **Door placement**: Build double doors at each end, sized to fit a wheelbarrow or small ATV for cleaning and feed delivery. - **Perches and cover**: Provide low perches, brush piles, or artificial cover so birds can hide from each other and from overhead predators. - **Soil and drainage**: Choose well drained ground. Mud and standing water lead to disease and feather damage. - **Estimated material cost**: 1,500 to 4,000 USD for a 100 by 20 foot pen depending on frame material and netting quality. ## Why Flight Pen Design Matters Pheasants are not like chickens. They are strong fliers that need horizontal space to build flight muscles. A bird raised in a small cage or a cramped pen will not survive well when released into the wild. It will lack the endurance to escape predators and the muscle development to fly over fences and through brush. For breeding stock, poor flight pen conditions lead to stress, feather pecking, and reduced egg production. The flight pen serves several purposes at once. It keeps birds contained, protects them from ground and aerial predators, gives them room to exercise, and provides an environment where they can express natural behaviors like dust bathing, foraging, and roosting. A good flight pen also makes daily work easier. You can walk inside to feed, water, and check birds without chasing them into corners. The design decisions you make before buying materials matter more than the construction skill you bring to the job. A poorly planned pen that is too small, poorly drained, or built with weak netting will fail within a season or two. This guide walks through every decision point so you can build once and build correctly. ## Pheasant Flight Pen Dimensions and Sizing ### How Much Space Do Pheasants Need Space requirements depend on what you are raising the birds for. A general rule for game birds is 1 square foot per bird in a brooder, but flight pens need far more space. For adult pheasants kept in a flight pen, plan on 30 to 50 square feet per bird. A pen that is 100 feet long and 20 feet wide gives you 2,000 square feet. At 40 square feet per bird, that supports 50 adult pheasants comfortably. If you are raising birds for release into the wild, give them more space rather than less. Birds that will be hunted or used for stocking need maximum flight development. Cramped conditions produce birds with weak wings and poor survival rates. For breeding birds, space per pair should be at least 60 to 80 square feet so males do not fight excessively and females can escape aggressive males. ### Length, Width, and Height Considerations The shape of the pen matters as much as the total square footage. Pheasants fly horizontally, not straight up like quail. They need length to build speed and gain altitude. A long narrow pen is better than a square pen of the same area. Aim for a length to width ratio of at least 3 to 1. A 100 foot by 20 foot pen is a good starting point. Some commercial operations build pens 150 to 200 feet long. Height should be at least 6 feet at the lowest point. Eight feet is better if you can manage it. Pheasants will fly up to the netting and drop back down. They need enough vertical space to feel secure and to practice sustained flight. A taller pen also gives you room to walk upright without stooping, which makes daily chores much easier on your back. ### Adjusting Size for Flock Size and Goals Use this simple formula to size your pen. Decide how many adult birds you will keep at peak season. Multiply that number by 40 for release birds or 70 for breeding birds. That gives you the total square footage needed. Then choose a length and width that fits your land and your budget. For 100 release birds, you need about 4,000 square feet. A 150 by 30 foot pen gives you 4,500 square feet. For 25 breeding pairs, you need about 3,500 square feet. A 120 by 30 foot pen gives you 3,600 square feet. Remember that young birds need less space than adults. You can start 200 juvenile pheasants in a pen sized for 50 adults, then split them into multiple pens as they grow. Plan your total pen area based on adult bird numbers, not the number of chicks you start. ## Choosing a Site for the Flight Pen ### Drainage and Soil Type The single most important site factor is drainage. Pheasants are ground birds that spend much of their time walking and scratching. Wet, muddy ground causes foot problems, feather soiling, and disease. Choose the highest, best drained spot on your property. Sandy or loamy soil is ideal. Heavy clay that holds water will cause problems no matter how well you build the pen. Test your site after a heavy rain. Walk the area and look for standing water or soft spots. If water pools on the surface for more than a few hours after rain, pick a different location or plan to add drainage. You can improve drainage by building the pen on a slight slope, 1 to 2 percent grade, so water runs out naturally. ### Sun Exposure and Wind Protection Pheasants need a mix of sun and shade. Full sun all day stresses birds in summer. Full shade all day keeps the ground wet and slows drying. Look for a site with morning sun and afternoon shade, or plant a few trees or install shade cloth on part of the pen. Wind protection matters in cold climates. A pen on an exposed ridgeline will be miserable for birds in winter and will stress them year round. Use existing tree lines, buildings, or hills for windbreaks. If you build on open ground, consider installing a solid windbreak panel on the prevailing wind side. ### Distance from Neighbors and Other Livestock Pheasants are noisy, especially during breeding season. Males crow frequently and can be disruptive in suburban or semi-rural areas. Check local ordinances about game bird operations before you build. Keep the pen at least 100 feet from property lines when possible. Keep pheasant pens away from chicken houses and other poultry. Pheasants are susceptible to many of the same diseases as domestic poultry, including [fowl cholera](/knowledge/bacteria/avian-bacteria/avian-cholera-fowl-cholera-in-poultry) and [avian influenza](/knowledge/bacteria/avian-bacteria/avian-influenza-cdc-global-surveillance). Wild birds can carry diseases between flocks. A separation of 100 feet or more reduces but does not eliminate disease transmission risk. ## Pheasant Pen Materials ### Frame Materials Compared The frame is the backbone of your flight pen. It must support the netting, resist wind loads, and survive years of weather exposure. You have three main choices. Pressure treated lumber is the most common choice for small and medium pens. It is affordable, easy to work with, and widely available. Use 4x4 posts for corners and 2x4 or 2x6 lumber for top rails and bracing. Pressure treated lumber rated for ground contact will last 15 to 20 years in most climates. The main drawback is weight and the need to brace corners properly. Galvanized steel pipe is stronger and lasts longer than wood but costs more and requires more skill to work with. Use 1.5 or 2 inch schedule 40 pipe for posts. Steel frames handle snow loads and high winds better than wood. They also resist rot and insect damage. Welding or using pipe fittings adds time and cost to the project. Aluminum is lightweight and never rusts but is the most expensive option. It is best for large commercial pens where longevity and low maintenance justify the cost. Aluminum frames are easier to assemble than steel because the material is lighter, but it is also softer and can bend under heavy impact. ### Netting Types and Specifications The netting you choose determines how well the pen holds birds and keeps out predators. Two main types are used for pheasant pens. Knotted nylon netting is the standard choice for game bird pens. It is strong, flexible, and will not injure birds that fly into it. Use 1 inch or 1.5 inch mesh. Smaller mesh keeps out small predators like weasels and keeps juvenile birds from squeezing through. Larger mesh is cheaper but less protective. Look for netting with a breaking strength of at least 200 pounds for the top and 150 pounds for the sides. Polypropylene netting is lighter and cheaper than nylon but degrades faster in sunlight. It is acceptable for temporary pens or for sides that you plan to replace every few years. The top of the pen should always use nylon or a UV stabilized polypropylene rated for overhead use. ### Wire Options for Predator Protection Many builders use wire mesh for the lower portion of the pen walls and netting above. Hardware cloth with 1 inch mesh, 19 gauge or heavier, provides excellent predator protection. Use it for the bottom 24 to 36 inches of the walls. This prevents raccoons, foxes, and dogs from tearing through the netting to reach birds. For the apron that extends outward from the base, use the same hardware cloth or a welded wire mesh. Bury the apron 12 to 18 inches below ground and extend it 18 to 24 inches outward. This stops diggers like foxes and coyotes from tunneling under the walls. ### Posts, Fasteners, and Hardware Do not skimp on hardware. Use galvanized staples, screws, and brackets rated for outdoor use. Plain steel will rust and fail within a year or two. For wood frames, use coated deck screws or galvanized nails. For netting attachment, use netting clips or galvanized staples spaced every 6 inches along the frame. Corner bracing is critical. Use diagonal braces at every corner and at the midpoint of long walls. A frame without proper bracing will sag and twist under wind and snow loads. Use metal corner brackets or cut wood braces at 45 degree angles and fasten with lag screws. ## Step by Step Flight Pen Construction ### Step 1: Lay Out the Pen Start by marking the pen footprint on the ground. Use stakes and string to outline the exact dimensions. Check square corners by measuring the diagonals. They should be equal. If the diagonals do not match, adjust the corners until they do. Mark the location of each post. For a 100 foot long pen, set posts every 10 to 12 feet along the sides. Corner posts should be heavier than intermediate posts. If you are using 4x4 lumber, use 6x6 posts at the corners for extra strength. ### Step 2: Set the Corner and Line Posts Dig post holes 24 to 30 inches deep. Deeper is better in sandy soil or areas with high winds. Set the posts in concrete for maximum stability. Mix the concrete according to the manufacturer instructions and pour it around the post. Use a level to make sure each post is perfectly vertical before the concrete sets. Space intermediate posts 10 to 12 feet apart. This spacing keeps the top rails from sagging under netting weight and snow. For steel frames, use a post driver or dig holes and set the pipe in concrete the same way. ### Step 3: Build the Top Frame The top frame transfers the weight of the netting and any snow load to the posts. For a flat top, run a top rail between all posts. Use 2x4 or 2x6 lumber for wood frames. Attach the top rail to the posts with galvanized lag screws or heavy duty brackets. For a peaked roof, build a ridge beam down the center of the pen and attach rafters from the ridge to the top rails. A 20 foot wide pen needs rafters every 4 to 6 feet. The peak should be 2 to 3 feet higher than the side walls. This gives a slope that sheds snow and rain. ### Step 4: Install the Side Netting Start with the wire mesh on the lower 24 to 36 inches of the walls. Attach it to the posts with galvanized staples or wire ties. Overlap the mesh at the corners and fasten securely. The bottom edge of the wire should extend into the trench you will dig for the apron. Above the wire, attach the nylon netting. Start at one corner and work along the wall. Use netting clips or staples every 6 inches. Pull the netting taut but not so tight that it cannot flex when a bird hits it. Leave a few inches of slack to prevent birds from bouncing off like they would hit a trampoline. ### Step 5: Install the Top Netting Top netting is the hardest part of the build because you are working overhead. If possible, assemble the top netting on the ground in panels and lift it into place. For a peaked roof, drape the netting over the rafters and fasten it to the top rails. Use heavier gauge netting on the top than on the sides. The top takes the most abuse from weather and from birds flying into it. Overlap netting panels by at least 6 inches and fasten the overlap securely so birds cannot find a gap. ### Step 6: Install the Predator Apron Dig a trench 4 to 6 inches deep around the entire perimeter of the pen. The trench should be 18 to 24 inches wide. Lay the wire mesh apron in the trench so it extends outward from the wall. The mesh should overlap the wall wire by at least 6 inches. Fasten the overlap with wire ties. Backfill the trench and pack the soil down firmly. The apron prevents predators from digging under the wall. Without it, a determined fox or coyote can dig under the pen in a single night. ### Step 7: Build the Doors Build double doors at each end of the pen. Each door should be 4 to 5 feet wide, giving a combined opening of 8 to 10 feet. This is wide enough for a wheelbarrow, ATV, or small tractor to enter for cleaning and feed delivery. Frame the doors with 2x4 lumber and cover them with the same wire and netting used on the walls. Hang the doors on heavy duty hinges that can support the weight. Install a latch that is secure enough to keep predators out but easy enough for you to open with gloved hands. ### Step 8: Add Interior Features Once the structure is complete, add the features that make the pen functional for pheasants. Place low perches made of 2x2 lumber or natural branches around the pen. Set them 18 to 24 inches off the ground. Pheasants use perches for roosting and for escaping aggressive pen mates. Create cover areas using brush piles, cut evergreen branches, or artificial cover panels. Place these in corners and along the sides. Cover gives birds a place to hide from overhead predators and from each other. Without cover, aggressive males can chase and injure weaker birds. Install feeders and waterers. Use hanging feeders that keep feed dry and clean. Place waterers on a slightly raised platform or use automatic waterers that prevent spillage. Check feeders and waterers daily and clean them regularly. ## Roof Design Options ### Flat Roof Pros and Cons A flat roof is the simplest and cheapest option. It requires less material and is easier to build. For small pens in mild climates, a flat roof works fine. The main problem is snow accumulation. In any area that gets more than a few inches of snow, a flat roof will sag or collapse under the weight. A flat roof also collects leaves and debris, which adds weight and traps moisture against the netting. ### Peaked Roof Design A peaked roof is the better choice for most pheasant operations. The slope sheds snow, rain, and debris. It also gives birds more vertical space in the center of the pen. The extra height allows pheasants to fly higher and gives them a more natural environment. Build the peak 2 to 3 feet above the side walls. Use a ridge beam supported by posts at the ends and midpoint of the pen. Attach rafters from the ridge to the top rails. Space rafters 4 to 6 feet apart. Drape the top netting over the rafters and fasten it along the ridge and the top rails. ### Gable Ends and Wind Protection The end walls of a peaked roof pen need special attention. Build gable ends that close the triangular space between the side walls and the roof peak. Use the same wire and netting as the rest of the pen. A properly closed gable end keeps birds from escaping through the gap and prevents predators from entering at the roofline. In windy areas, consider installing a solid panel on the prevailing wind end of the pen. Use plywood or corrugated metal sheeting on the lower portion of the end wall. This blocks wind and gives birds a protected area during storms. ## Predator Protection Strategies ### Ground Predators Ground predators are the most common threat to pheasant flocks. Raccoons, foxes, coyotes, dogs, skunks, and weasels will all try to enter a pen. The wire apron and the lower wire walls provide the first line of defense. The apron must extend outward at least 18 inches and be buried 4 to 6 inches deep. Check the perimeter regularly for signs of digging. A predator that tries to dig under your pen will leave disturbed soil and scratch marks. Fill any holes immediately and pack the soil firmly. Weasels and mink can squeeze through surprisingly small gaps. Inspect the wire and netting for holes or loose fasteners at least once a month. ### Aerial Predators Hawks, owls, and eagles will attack pheasants through the top netting. The netting protects birds from direct attacks, but the sight of a hawk overhead can cause panic. Panicked pheasants fly into the netting and can injure themselves. Provide cover areas where birds can hide when a predator is overhead. The top netting must be strong enough to resist talon strikes. A hawk that lands on the netting and tries to tear through it can damage even heavy netting. Inspect the top regularly and repair any tears immediately. Some operations string monofilament line over the top of the pen to discourage raptors from landing. ### Rodents and Small Pests Rats and mice are attracted to spilled feed and will dig under pen walls. They also carry diseases that can affect pheasants. Keep the area around the pen free of spilled feed and debris. Use rat bait stations outside the pen, never inside where pheasants can reach them. Snakes can enter through gaps in the netting and prey on eggs and chicks. Keep the area around the pen mowed short to reduce snake habitat. Seal any gaps around doors and posts where snakes could enter. ## Common Construction Mistakes to Avoid ### Underestimating Snow Load Many first time builders choose a flat roof or light netting to save money. The first heavy snow collapses the roof or tears the netting. Always design for the worst winter you might see, not the average. Use heavy netting on the top and build a peaked roof in any area that gets snow. ### Using Undersized Posts Posts that are too small or set too shallow will lean and sag over time. A 4x4 post set 18 inches deep will shift in wet soil. Use 6x6 corner posts and set all posts at least 24 inches deep in concrete. The extra cost is small compared to the cost of rebuilding a leaning pen. ### Poor Netting Tension Netting that is too loose sags and collects debris. Netting that is too tight tears when birds fly into it. Aim for a slight amount of give, about 1 to 2 inches of deflection when you push on the netting. Check tension after the first heavy rain and after snow loads to make sure the netting has not stretched or sagged. ### Ignoring Drainage Building on a site that holds water is a mistake you cannot fix after the pen is built. Mud leads to foot problems, feather damage, and disease. If your only available site has poor drainage, build raised beds inside the pen or install drainage tile before you set posts. ### Forgetting About Access A pen that is difficult to enter will not get cleaned or maintained properly. Make sure your doors are large enough and positioned so you can drive a wheelbarrow or small vehicle inside. Leave a clear path down the center of the pen for moving equipment and checking birds. ## Daily and Seasonal Maintenance ### Daily Checks Walk the pen at least once a day. Look for signs of injury, illness, or aggression among the birds. Check feeders and waterers and refill as needed. Look at the netting for any new tears or gaps. Check the perimeter for signs of predator activity. ### Weekly Tasks Clean and sanitize waterers weekly. Remove any wet spots or muddy areas and add fresh bedding or sand if needed. Inspect the top netting for damage from wind or birds. Check posts and braces for looseness or damage. ### Seasonal Maintenance In spring, clean out any debris that accumulated over winter. Replace worn netting before the breeding season starts. Check the entire perimeter for holes or weak spots after the ground thaws. In summer, make sure shade cover is adequate. Check that waterers are working properly in the heat. Watch for signs of heat stress in birds, including panting and reduced activity. In fall, prepare the pen for winter. Repair any damage before snow arrives. Make sure the roof can handle expected snow loads. Add windbreaks if needed. In winter, check the pen daily after storms. Remove snow from the netting if it accumulates. Make sure waterers are not frozen. Provide extra cover and wind protection for birds. ## Monitoring Pheasant Health and Behavior ### Signs of a Healthy Flock Healthy pheasants are active and alert. They move around the pen, scratch at the ground, and interact with each other. Their feathers are smooth and clean. They eat and drink regularly. Flight muscles develop visibly over time. A healthy bird flies strongly when startled and lands cleanly. ### Early Warning Signs Watch for birds that sit apart from the group, have fluffed feathers, or show reduced activity. These are often the first signs of illness. Check for discharge from eyes or nostrils, diarrhea, or labored breathing. Limping or drooping wings can indicate injury. Feather loss or bald patches may indicate pecking or mites. ### Recordkeeping for Your Flock Keep a simple log of daily observations and any treatments you provide. Record the number of birds in the pen, any deaths or injuries, feed consumption, and water consumption. Note any changes in behavior or appearance. This log helps you spot trends and gives your veterinarian useful information if problems develop. Track feed consumption weekly. A sudden drop in feed intake can signal illness. A sudden increase can indicate wasted feed or a waterer leak. Compare weekly numbers to your baseline to catch problems early. ## When to Call a Veterinarian or Extension Agent ### Disease Outbreak Signs Call a veterinarian if you see multiple birds showing signs of illness at the same time. Sudden death of several birds is an emergency. Other signs that warrant a call include respiratory distress, swelling of the face or eyes, green or bloody diarrhea, or sudden drops in egg production in breeding birds. ### Regulatory Reporting Requirements Some diseases are reportable to state or federal authorities. These include highly pathogenic [avian influenza](/knowledge/bacteria/avian-bacteria/avian-influenza-cdc-guidelines-poultry-pandemic-preparedness), Newcastle disease, and other diseases on the WOAH list. If you suspect a reportable disease, contact your state veterinarian or USDA APHIS office immediately. Do not move birds or equipment off the property until you have guidance. ### Getting Help with Design and Management Your local cooperative extension agent can help with pen design, [bird nutrition](/knowledge/veterinary-medicine/backyard-poultry/avian-nutrition-dietary-requirements-companion-birds-backyard-poultry), and flock management questions. They can also connect you with local resources and workshops. For questions about disease prevention and biosecurity, contact your state veterinarian or USDA APHIS. ## Cost Estimates and Budgeting ### Material Cost Breakdown For a 100 by 20 foot pen with a peaked roof, expect to spend 1,500 to 4,000 USD on materials. The range depends on your choices for frame material, netting quality, and whether you use wire mesh for predator protection. Pressure treated lumber for posts and rails costs 800 to 1,200 USD. Galvanized steel pipe costs 1,500 to 2,500 USD. Netting costs 400 to 800 USD for nylon top netting and polypropylene side netting. Wire mesh for the lower walls and apron costs 200 to 400 USD. Concrete, hardware, and fasteners add 200 to 400 USD. ### Labor Considerations If you hire contractors to build the pen, add 50 to 100 percent to the material cost for labor. Building the pen yourself takes 3 to 7 days depending on your skill level and whether you have help. A two person crew working full time can complete a 100 by 20 foot pen in 2 to 3 days. ### Long Term Costs Budget for annual maintenance of 100 to 300 USD per year. This covers replacement netting, hardware, and minor repairs. Top netting typically lasts 5 to 10 years with UV stabilized nylon. Side netting may need replacement every 3 to 5 years. Wood posts last 15 to 20 years with pressure treated lumber. ## Frequently Asked Questions ### How big should a pheasant flight pen be for 50 birds? A pen that is 100 feet long, 20 feet wide, and 6 to 8 feet high provides 2,000 square feet of space. At 40 square feet per bird, this supports 50 adult pheasants. For breeding birds that need more space, plan on 60 to 80 square feet per bird and use a larger pen. ### What is the best netting for a pheasant pen? Use knotted nylon netting with 1 inch to 1.5 inch mesh. Nylon is stronger and lasts longer than polypropylene. Use heavier gauge netting on the top of the pen to handle snow load and bird impact. The lower 24 to 36 inches of the walls should be wire mesh to stop predators from tearing through. ### How do I keep predators from digging under my pheasant pen? Install a wire mesh apron around the entire perimeter. Bury the apron 4 to 6 inches deep and extend it 18 to 24 inches outward from the wall. Attach the apron to the wall wire with wire ties. Check the perimeter monthly for signs of digging and repair any gaps immediately. ### Can I use chicken wire for a pheasant flight pen? Chicken wire is not recommended for pheasant pens. It is too weak to stop predators and pheasants can injure themselves flying into it. Use knotted nylon netting for the walls and top, and use hardware cloth or welded wire for the lower walls and predator apron. ### Do pheasants need a roof on their pen? Yes, pheasants need overhead netting to prevent escape and to protect them from aerial predators. A peaked roof is best because it sheds snow and rain and gives birds more vertical space. A flat roof will sag under snow load in most climates. ### How high should a pheasant flight pen be? The lowest point of the pen should be at least 6 feet. Eight feet is better. A peaked roof can add 2 to 3 feet more height at the center. Taller pens give pheasants more room to fly and make it easier for you to walk inside. ### How long does a pheasant flight pen last? With proper maintenance, a wood framed pen lasts 15 to 20 years. Steel or aluminum frames last longer, 25 years or more. Top netting lasts 5 to 10 years with UV stabilized nylon. Side netting and wire mesh may need replacement every 5 to 8 years. ### What should I put on the floor of a pheasant pen? Use a well drained natural soil floor. Add sand or crushed gravel in areas that get wet or muddy. Do not use concrete, which is hard on bird feet and difficult to clean. Provide dry areas with straw or wood shavings for roosting and dust bathing. ## Related Farming Guides This section will be populated with links to related guides on [game bird farming](/knowledge/animal-farming/poultry/game-bird-farming-quail-pheasant-partridge-production-systems), predator control, and alternative livestock management. Check back for updates or explore other articles in this series. ## Related Clinical & Scientific Guides * [Water Buffalo Genetic Improvement and Breeding Programs](/knowledge/animal-farming/alternative-livestock/water-buffalo-genetic-improvement-breeding-programs) * [Camel Farm Biosecurity: Disease Prevention and Quarantine Protocols](/knowledge/animal-farming/alternative-livestock/camel-farm-biosecurity-disease-prevention-quarantine-protocols) * [Water Buffalo Farm Equipment and Infrastructure](/knowledge/animal-farming/alternative-livestock/water-buffalo-farm-equipment-infrastructure) ## References - FAO Animal Production: https://www.fao.org/animal-production/en/ - USDA APHIS: https://www.aphis.usda.gov/ - FAO Animal Production and Health: https://www.fao.org/animal-production/en/ - WOAH (World Organisation for Animal Health): https://www.woah.org/en/home/ > This article is educational and is not a substitute for veterinary diagnosis, treatment, public-health guidance, or regulatory reporting.