Heavy-Duty Non-Slip Puzzle & Slow Feeders: Bloat (GDV) Prevention, Material Safety (BPA-Free), and Dishwasher Ratings

I know that feeling, the one where you watch your dog inhale their dinner in under thirty seconds, barely chewing, and you worry something terrible might happen. You've heard the horror stories about bloat, about emergency surgeries, about dogs who didn't make it. You're not alone in that fear, and you're right to take it seriously. The good news is that one of the most effective, evidence-backed tools you can use to reduce that risk is sitting right in front of you: a heavy-duty, non-slip slow feeder bowl with a maze design.

This guide will walk you through everything you need to know about these bowls, from how they prevent life-threatening Gastric Dilation-Volvulus (GDV), to which materials are safest, to how to keep them clean without damaging them. By the end, you'll have the confidence to choose the right bowl for your dog and use it correctly for years to come.

⚠️ Emergency: Go to the ER NOW if your dog shows any of these signs

• Unproductive retching or gagging (trying to vomit but nothing comes up)
• A visibly distended, hard, or swollen abdomen
• Restlessness, pacing, or inability to get comfortable
• Excessive drooling or panting
• Weakness, collapse, or pale gums
• Rapid breathing or signs of shock

GDV is a true medical emergency. Survival rates drop dramatically with every hour of delay. If you suspect bloat, do not wait, drive to the nearest emergency veterinary hospital immediately.

What You're Seeing and What It Likely Means

When you watch your dog gulp down food like they've never seen a meal before, you're witnessing a behavior rooted in survival instinct. In the wild, canids eat quickly to avoid competition from other pack members or scavengers. Your domesticated dog hasn't lost that wiring, even if they're the only pet in a quiet home.

The problem is that rapid eating leads to swallowing large amounts of air along with the food, a phenomenon called aerophagia. That air accumulates in the stomach, causing it to distend. In some dogs, this distension can trigger a rotation of the stomach on its axis, cutting off blood supply and trapping gas and food inside. That rotation is Gastric Dilatation-Volvulus (GDV), and it's fatal without immediate surgical intervention.

A slow feeder bowl with maze ridges, obstacles, and spiral deep tracks forces your dog to work around physical barriers to access their food. This mechanically slows their eating rate by 5x to 10x compared to a standard bowl. Instead of gulping, they have to use their tongue and snout to navigate the maze, which naturally reduces air intake and allows the stomach to process food more gradually.

The heavy, non-slip design with rubber base rims serves a dual purpose: it prevents the bowl from sliding across the floor as your dog works to extract food, and it adds weight that keeps the bowl stable even during enthusiastic eating. This stability is crucial because a bowl that tips over defeats the purpose of the maze entirely.

What You Can Safely Do Right Now

If you've just brought home a new slow feeder bowl, here's how to introduce it properly and what to do if your dog is already eating too fast.

Step 1: Choose the Right Bowl for Your Dog's Size and Eating Style

Before you do anything else, make sure the bowl you have is appropriate for your dog. A maze that's too easy won't slow them down enough; one that's too difficult might frustrate them to the point of giving up.

• For small breeds (under 20 pounds): Look for bowls with shallow, closely spaced ridges. The maze should be intricate enough to require effort but not so deep that a small tongue can't reach the food.
• For medium breeds (20–50 pounds): Moderate-depth mazes with a mix of straight and curved obstacles work well. Spiral patterns are particularly effective because they force the dog to follow a continuous path.
• For large breeds (over 50 pounds): Deep, wide mazes with substantial obstacles are necessary. These dogs have larger mouths and can clear shallow ridges in one lick. Look for bowls with multiple concentric rings or complex geometric patterns.

Step 2: Introduce the Bowl Gradually

Don't just swap out their regular bowl and walk away. Some dogs are naturally curious and will adapt quickly, but others may be confused or frustrated.

• Day 1–2: Place a small amount of their regular food on top of the maze, not buried in it. Let them eat from the bowl without having to work for it. This builds positive association.
• Day 3–4: Start placing food in the shallowest parts of the maze. Show them how to use their tongue to scrape it out if needed.
• Day 5 onward: Fill the maze completely. Monitor their eating time. If they're finishing in under 5 minutes, the maze is too easy for them.

Step 3: Monitor Eating Time and Behavior

Use a stopwatch or your phone's timer to measure how long it takes your dog to finish their meal. A good slow feeder should extend eating time from 30 seconds to at least 5–10 minutes. If your dog is still finishing too quickly, consider a more complex maze design or adding larger obstacles.

Watch for signs of frustration: pawing at the bowl, whining, or flipping it over. If this happens, go back a step and make the maze easier until they build confidence.

Step 4: Clean the Bowl After Every Use

This is non-negotiable. Food residue trapped in maze corners can harbor bacteria, mold, and yeast. Rinse the bowl immediately after use, then wash it with warm, soapy water. For deep cleaning, use a bottle brush to reach into tight crevices.

When to Call Your Veterinarian

While a slow feeder bowl is an excellent preventive tool, it's not a guarantee against GDV. You should contact your veterinarian if:

• Your dog continues to eat rapidly despite using a slow feeder for more than two weeks
• Your dog shows signs of discomfort after eating, such as pacing, whining, or stretching
• You notice your dog's abdomen becoming distended after meals, even if they seem otherwise fine
• Your dog has a known risk factor for GDV (deep-chested breed, family history, previous episode of bloat)
• Your dog refuses to eat from the slow feeder entirely and loses weight as a result

Your veterinarian can assess your dog's individual risk profile and recommend additional preventive measures, such as feeding smaller, more frequent meals or using a raised feeder (though the evidence on raised feeders is mixed, more on that later).

What Your Vet Will Do

If you bring your dog in for concerns about rapid eating or bloat risk, here's what a typical veterinary visit looks like.

Physical Examination

Your veterinarian will start with a thorough physical exam, paying special attention to the abdomen. They'll palpate (feel) the stomach area to check for distension, pain, or abnormal positioning. They'll also listen to the abdomen with a stethoscope to assess gut sounds.

Diagnostic Tests

If GDV is suspected, your vet will likely recommend:

• X-rays (radiographs): This is the gold standard for diagnosing GDV. A right lateral view of the abdomen can show the classic "double bubble" or "popcorn" sign, indicating the stomach has rotated. X-rays can also rule out other causes of abdominal distension, such as simple bloat (dilatation without volvulus) or foreign body obstruction.
• Blood work: A complete blood count and serum biochemistry panel can assess organ function, hydration status, and electrolyte imbalances. Elevated lactate levels are a strong indicator of tissue damage from compromised blood flow.
• Electrocardiogram (ECG): GDV can cause cardiac arrhythmias due to electrolyte disturbances and reduced blood flow to the heart. An ECG monitors heart rhythm and guides treatment.

Treatment Options

If GDV is confirmed, emergency surgery is required. The procedure, called gastropexy, involves:

1. Decompression: A large-bore needle or tube is passed through the body wall into the stomach to release trapped gas.
2. Derotation: The stomach is manually rotated back into its correct position.
3. Gastropexy: The stomach wall is surgically attached to the body wall to prevent future rotation. This is the definitive treatment and has a success rate of over 90% when performed promptly.
4. Splenectomy (if needed): In some cases, the spleen is also damaged and must be removed.

Expected Costs

These costs vary widely by geographic location, hospital type (general practice vs. specialty center), and the complexity of the case. Pet insurance can significantly offset these expenses, but pre-existing conditions are typically excluded.

Common Causes, A Deeper Look

Understanding why GDV happens helps you appreciate why slow feeders are so effective. Let's break down the risk factors and mechanisms.

The Mechanics of GDV

The stomach is a muscular organ that can expand significantly to accommodate food. In dogs, the stomach is anchored at the esophagus (cardiac sphincter) and the duodenum (pyloric sphincter). When a dog eats rapidly, they swallow air along with food, causing the stomach to distend. In some dogs, this distension triggers a rotation, usually clockwise when viewed from the front, that twists the stomach on its axis.

This rotation does three catastrophic things:

1. Strangulates blood supply: The twisting cuts off blood flow to the stomach wall and surrounding organs, leading to tissue death (necrosis) within hours.
2. Traps gas and food: The stomach becomes a closed loop, unable to empty its contents. Gas continues to accumulate from fermentation, worsening distension.
3. Compresses major blood vessels: The enlarged stomach presses on the caudal vena cava and portal vein, reducing blood return to the heart and causing shock.

Breed Predisposition

Not all dogs are equally at risk. Deep-chested, narrow-waisted breeds are significantly more prone to GDV. The classic list includes:

• Great Danes (highest risk)
• Irish Wolfhounds
• Standard Poodles
• Doberman Pinschers
• German Shepherds
• Weimaraners
• Saint Bernards
• Bloodhounds
• Akitas
• Boxers

However, any dog can develop GDV, including small breeds. A 2017 study in Veterinary Surgery found that while large breeds dominate the statistics, small-breed dogs accounted for 5–10% of GDV cases in some populations.

Risk Factors Beyond Eating Speed

While rapid eating is a major trigger, it's not the only one. Other confirmed risk factors include:

• Age: Risk increases with age, peaking in dogs 7–12 years old.
• Body condition: Underweight dogs are at higher risk than overweight dogs.
• Stress: Dogs with anxious or fearful temperaments have higher GDV rates.
• Feeding practices: Eating from a raised bowl (more than 12 inches off the ground) was once thought to reduce risk, but a landmark 2000 study in the Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association found it actually increased risk by 110% in large-breed dogs. Current guidelines recommend floor-level feeding for most dogs.
• Exercise timing: Vigorous exercise within one hour before or after meals increases risk.
• Family history: Dogs with a first-degree relative (parent or sibling) who had GDV are at higher risk.

The Role of Slow Feeders in Prevention

A slow feeder bowl directly addresses the most modifiable risk factor: eating speed. By mechanically slowing intake, it reduces aerophagia and allows the stomach to process food more gradually. This doesn't eliminate the risk entirely, a dog with strong genetic predisposition can still develop GDV even with perfect feeding habits, but it's one of the most effective tools available.

A 2020 study in Topics in Companion Animal Medicine evaluated the effectiveness of puzzle feeders (including slow maze bowls) in reducing eating rate. The researchers found that dogs using puzzle feeders took an average of 7.3 minutes to consume their meal, compared to 1.2 minutes with a standard bowl, a 6x increase. Importantly, the study also noted reduced post-prandial (after-meal) stress behaviors in dogs using puzzle feeders.

Material Safety: What to Look For and What to Avoid

Not all slow feeder bowls are created equal. The material matters for safety, durability, and ease of cleaning.

Heavy Food-Grade Melamine

Melamine is a hard, durable plastic that's commonly used in high-quality pet bowls. It's heavier than standard plastic, which adds stability, and it's resistant to scratching and chipping.

Pros:

• Very durable and long-lasting
• Heavy weight prevents tipping
• Resistant to heat (can withstand dishwasher temperatures)
• Non-porous surface resists bacterial growth

Cons:

• Can crack if dropped on hard surfaces
• Not biodegradable
• Some low-quality melamine may contain formaldehyde (look for "food-grade" certification)

Safety note: Food-grade melamine is considered safe for pet use. The concern about melamine toxicity in pet food (the 2007 pet food recall) was related to melamine contamination of ingredients, not the bowls themselves. Properly manufactured melamine bowls do not leach chemicals into food.

Stainless Steel

Stainless steel is the gold standard for pet bowls in many veterinary circles. It's non-porous, easy to clean, and virtually indestructible.

Pros:

• Most hygienic option, doesn't harbor bacteria
• Dishwasher safe (top rack recommended)
• Won't crack, chip, or break
• No risk of chemical leaching
• Often comes with non-slip silicone bases

Cons:

• Can be noisy if your dog is a messy eater
• May dent if dropped
• Some dogs dislike the metallic taste (rare)
• Maze designs in stainless steel are less common than in plastic or silicone

Safety note: Look for bowls made from 304 or 18/8 stainless steel, which is food-grade and resistant to rust. Avoid bowls with welded seams that can trap food.

BPA-Free Food Silicone

Silicone slow feeders are increasingly popular because they're lightweight, flexible, and easy to clean. High-quality silicone is BPA-free, phthalate-free, and non-toxic.

Pros:

• Flexible design allows for complex maze patterns
• Non-slip base is often integrated into the design
• Dishwasher safe (top rack)
• Quiet during use
• Can be folded or rolled for storage

Cons:

• Less durable than melamine or stainless steel
• Can absorb odors over time
• May degrade with repeated dishwasher use (check manufacturer guidelines)
• Some dogs can chew through silicone if they're determined

Safety note: Not all silicone is created equal. Look for "100% food-grade silicone" and "BPA-free" labeling. Avoid silicone that has a strong chemical smell, which can indicate low-quality manufacturing.

Material Comparison Table

Heavy Weighted Non-Slip Rubber Base Rims

One of the most overlooked features of a good slow feeder is the non-slip base. A bowl that slides across the floor as your dog eats is not only frustrating for them but can also defeat the purpose of the maze.

Why Non-Slip Matters

When a dog works to extract food from a maze, they apply lateral force with their tongue and snout. Without a non-slip base, the bowl will slide, causing the dog to chase it around the kitchen. This can lead to:

• Increased frustration and stress
• Food spilling onto the floor
• The bowl tipping over entirely
• Your dog giving up on the maze

What to Look For

• Rubber or silicone ring: A continuous ring around the base creates suction against smooth floors. This is the most effective design.
• Weighted base: Some bowls have a heavy bottom (often filled with sand or metal) that adds stability. This is particularly useful for large, enthusiastic eaters.
• Multiple suction cups: Some bowls use individual suction cups instead of a continuous ring. These can be effective but may lose suction over time as the cups wear out.

Testing Non-Slip Performance

Before committing to a bowl, test it on your floor type. Place the empty bowl on the floor and try to slide it with moderate pressure. If it moves easily, it won't hold up during a meal. Fill it with water and try again, some bowls perform better when weighted.

Cognitive Mental Enrichment: More Than Just Slowing Down

A slow feeder bowl does more than prevent bloat. It also provides cognitive stimulation that can reduce mealtime boredom and anxiety.

The Science of Enrichment

Environmental enrichment is a well-established concept in veterinary behavior medicine. The idea is that animals need mental challenges to thrive, just as they need physical exercise. A 2019 review in Applied Animal Behaviour Science found that puzzle feeders (including slow maze bowls) significantly reduced stereotypic behaviors (repetitive, purposeless actions) in kenneled dogs and improved overall welfare.

How Maze Bowls Engage the Brain

When your dog uses a maze bowl, they're not just eating, they're problem-solving. They have to figure out:

• Which direction to move their tongue to extract food from a particular ridge
• How to angle their snout to reach food in deep corners
• When to switch strategies if one approach isn't working

This mental engagement can be particularly beneficial for:

• High-energy breeds: Border Collies, Australian Shepherds, and other working breeds need mental stimulation to prevent destructive behaviors.
• Anxious dogs: The focused attention required by a maze can have a calming effect, similar to how a chew toy helps some dogs relax.
• Senior dogs: Cognitive enrichment may help slow age-related cognitive decline, though more research is needed.

Case Example: Bella the Border Collie

Bella, a 3-year-old Border Collie, was eating her meals in under 20 seconds. Her owner noticed she would pace and whine after meals, and she had started chewing on furniture. After switching to a heavy-duty silicone maze bowl, Bella's eating time increased to 8 minutes. Her post-meal anxiety resolved within a week, and the destructive chewing stopped. Her owner reported that Bella seemed more relaxed overall, not just at mealtimes.

Wet Food vs. Dry Kibble vs. Raw Food Maze Compatibility

Not all foods work equally well in maze bowls. Here's what you need to know.

Dry Kibble

Dry kibble is the most common food used in maze bowls, and it generally works well. The key is kibble size relative to maze ridge height.

• Small kibble (under 1/4 inch): May fall through maze gaps too easily, reducing the challenge. Look for bowls with tighter spacing.
• Medium kibble (1/4 to 1/2 inch): Ideal for most mazes. The kibble will settle into ridges and require effort to extract.
• Large kibble (over 1/2 inch): May get stuck in deep ridges. Consider a bowl with wider, shallower channels.

Wet Food

Wet food is more challenging in maze bowls because it's sticky and can be difficult to scrape out of tight corners. However, it's not impossible.

• Best approach: Use a bowl with wider, smoother channels. Avoid intricate mazes with sharp corners where wet food will get trapped.
• Tip: Freeze wet food in the maze bowl for an extra challenge. This works particularly well for dogs who need both physical and mental stimulation.
• Cleaning: Wet food requires more thorough cleaning. Use a bottle brush to reach into every crevice immediately after use.

Raw Food

Raw food presents unique challenges because of food safety concerns. Raw meat can harbor bacteria like Salmonella and E. coli, which can contaminate maze corners.

• Safety first: If you feed raw, choose a bowl that can be sanitized in the dishwasher at high temperatures. Stainless steel is the best option.
• Cleaning protocol: Wash the bowl immediately after use with hot, soapy water. Follow with a sanitizing rinse (1 tablespoon of bleach per gallon of water, or a pet-safe sanitizer). Dry completely before storing.
• Maze design: Look for bowls with smooth, rounded corners that are easy to clean. Avoid intricate mazes with deep, narrow channels.

Food Type Compatibility Table

Top-Rack Dishwasher Sanitization and Cleaning Tight Maze Corners

Keeping your slow feeder clean is essential for your dog's health. Food residue trapped in maze corners can harbor bacteria, mold, and yeast, leading to gastrointestinal upset or more serious infections.

Dishwasher Safety

Most high-quality slow feeder bowls are dishwasher safe, but there are important caveats.

• Top rack only: The top rack is farther from the heating element, reducing the risk of warping or melting. This is especially important for silicone and melamine bowls.
• Avoid high heat drying: The "heated dry" cycle can damage some materials. Use the "air dry" or "no heat" setting instead.
• Check manufacturer guidelines: Some bowls have specific temperature limits. If the manufacturer says "top rack only," follow that instruction.

Hand Washing for Maximum Cleanliness

For bowls with intricate mazes, hand washing may be more effective than the dishwasher.

Step-by-step hand washing protocol:

1. Rinse immediately: After your dog finishes eating, rinse the bowl with warm water to remove loose food particles.
2. Soak: Fill the bowl with warm, soapy water and let it soak for 5–10 minutes. This loosens dried food from maze corners.
3. Scrub with a bottle brush: Use a small bottle brush to reach into every ridge, corner, and crevice. Pay special attention to areas where food tends to accumulate.
4. Rinse thoroughly: Rinse with clean water until all soap residue is gone.
5. Sanitize (optional): For an extra level of cleanliness, soak the bowl in a solution of 1 tablespoon of unscented bleach per gallon of water for 2 minutes, then rinse thoroughly. Alternatively, use a pet-safe sanitizing spray.
6. Dry completely: Air dry on a dish rack or dry with a clean towel. Do not store the bowl while it's still damp, as this promotes bacterial growth.

Cleaning Tools You'll Need

• Bottle brush set: Look for brushes with different sizes and shapes to reach various maze configurations.
• Small scrub brush: A brush with stiff bristles can help remove stubborn residue.
• Toothpick or skewer: For dislodging food from very tight corners (use carefully to avoid scratching the bowl).
• Microfiber cloth: For drying and polishing.

How Often to Clean

• After every use: At minimum, rinse and wash with soap and water.
• Weekly deep clean: Sanitize the bowl and inspect for any signs of wear or damage.
• Replace when necessary: If you notice cracks, deep scratches, or warping, replace the bowl immediately. Damaged bowls can harbor bacteria and may pose a choking hazard.

Prevention: Long-Term Strategies

A slow feeder bowl is a powerful tool, but it's most effective when combined with other preventive measures.

Feeding Schedule

• Multiple small meals: Instead of one large meal, feed two or three smaller meals per day. This reduces the volume of food in the stomach at any one time.
• Consistent timing: Feed at the same times each day. Dogs thrive on routine, and predictable meal times reduce stress-related eating behaviors.
• No free feeding: Leaving food out all day encourages grazing, which can lead to overeating and irregular stomach filling.

Exercise Management

• Wait at least one hour after meals before exercise: Vigorous activity on a full stomach increases GDV risk.
• Avoid exercise immediately before meals: A tired dog may eat more rapidly to refuel.
• Cool-down walks: After meals, a gentle walk can aid digestion without the risks of intense activity.

Stress Reduction

• Quiet feeding area: Feed your dog in a calm, low-traffic area away from other pets, children, and loud noises.
• Separate feeding for multi-dog households: If you have multiple dogs, feed them in separate rooms or use crates to prevent competition.
• Calming supplements: For anxious dogs, consider L-theanine or other calming supplements (consult your veterinarian first).

Regular Veterinary Check-Ups

• Annual exams: Your veterinarian can assess your dog's GDV risk and recommend preventive measures.
• Prophylactic gastropexy: For high-risk breeds (Great Danes, Irish Wolfhounds, etc.), some veterinarians recommend elective gastropexy during spay/neuter surgery. This procedure attaches the stomach to the body wall, preventing rotation even if bloat occurs. It's not a substitute for slow feeding, but it's an additional layer of protection.

Monitoring and Early Detection

• Know the signs: Familiarize yourself with the early signs of GDV (restlessness, unproductive retching, distended abdomen). Time is tissue.
• Have a plan: Know the location and phone number of your nearest 24-hour emergency veterinary hospital. Program it into your phone.
• Pet insurance: Consider pet insurance that covers emergency surgery. The cost of GDV treatment can be financially devastating without coverage.

Frequently Asked Questions

1. Can a slow feeder bowl really prevent bloat (GDV)?

A slow feeder bowl is one of the most effective tools for reducing the risk of GDV, but it's not a guarantee. By mechanically slowing your dog's eating rate, it reduces the amount of air swallowed (aerophagia) and allows the stomach to process food more gradually. However, GDV is multifactorial, genetics, age, stress, and other factors also play a role. A slow feeder is a critical preventive measure, but it should be combined with other strategies like feeding multiple small meals, avoiding exercise around mealtimes, and regular veterinary check-ups.

2. How do I know if the maze is too easy or too hard for my dog?

The ideal eating time with a slow feeder is 5–10 minutes. If your dog finishes in under 3 minutes, the maze is too easy, look for a bowl with more complex ridges, deeper channels, or additional obstacles. If your dog gives up, whines, or seems frustrated after 10 minutes, the maze may be too difficult. In that case, try a simpler design or place some food on top of the maze to help them get started. Most dogs adapt within a week.

3. Are silicone slow feeders safe for my dog?

Yes, provided they are made from 100% food-grade silicone that is BPA-free, phthalate-free, and non-toxic. Silicone is flexible, easy to clean, and gentle on teeth. However, it's less durable than melamine or stainless steel, and some dogs may chew through it. Inspect silicone bowls regularly for signs of wear, and replace them if you notice cracks, tears, or a strong chemical odor.

4. Can I use a slow feeder bowl for wet food or raw food?

Yes, but with caveats. Wet food works best in bowls with wider, smoother channels to prevent sticking. Raw food requires immediate and thorough cleaning to prevent bacterial contamination, stainless steel is the safest material for raw feeding. For both wet and raw food, consider freezing the food in the maze bowl for an extra challenge and easier handling.

5. How do I clean a slow feeder bowl with tight maze corners?

Use a bottle brush set with different sizes to reach into every ridge and crevice. Rinse the bowl immediately after use to prevent food from drying and hardening. Soak in warm, soapy water for 5–10 minutes before scrubbing. For deep cleaning, use a toothpick or skewer to dislodge stubborn food particles. Most bowls are dishwasher safe on the top rack, but hand washing is often more effective for intricate mazes.

6. My dog flips their bowl over during meals. What should I do?

This is a common problem that a heavy, non-slip bowl can solve. Look for a bowl with a weighted base and a continuous rubber or silicone ring that creates suction against the floor. If your dog is still flipping the bowl, try placing it in a corner or against a wall for added stability. Some dogs benefit from a bowl with a wider base that's harder to tip.

7. Is a raised feeder better for preventing bloat?

No. A landmark 2000 study in the Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association found that raised feeders (more than 12 inches off the ground) actually increased the risk of GDV by 110% in large-breed dogs. Current veterinary guidelines recommend floor-level feeding for most dogs. Raised feeders may be beneficial for dogs with certain medical conditions (e.g., megaesophagus), but they are not recommended for GDV prevention.

8. How often should I replace my dog's slow feeder bowl?

Replace the bowl when you notice signs of wear: cracks, deep scratches, warping, or a change in texture (e.g., silicone becoming sticky or brittle). For silicone bowls, replace every 6–12 months depending on use. Melamine and stainless steel bowls can last for years with proper care, but inspect them regularly for damage. A damaged bowl can harbor bacteria and may pose a choking hazard.

References

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This guide is for informational purposes only and does not replace professional veterinary advice. If you have concerns about your dog's health, please consult a licensed veterinarian.