Sheep Fencing Options for Predator Control and Containment

By Dr. Zubair Khalid, DVM, MS, PhD · 2026-08-14

Key Takeaways

Woven wire sheep netting is recommended as a robust, permanent perimeter fence for general containment and predator deterrence, offering a physical barrier with minimal ongoing operational costs and a lifespan of 20-30 years.
High-tensile electric fencing presents a cost-effective solution for large operations and specific predator deterrence (e.g., coyotes, dogs), functioning as a standalone system or an addition to existing fences, but requires consistent power and maintenance to remain effective.
Predator-proof fencing necessitates a multi-faceted approach, typically involving increased height (5-6 feet), tighter mesh (4-inch or less), and often a combination of woven wire with strategically placed electric wires to deter climbing and digging.
Effective predator control requires identifying specific threats (coyotes, dogs, foxes, bears, bobcats, mountain lions, feral hogs) as each species presents unique challenges necessitating tailored fence adjustments, such as buried aprons for diggers or top wires for climbers.
Fence integrity is critically dependent on proper installation, particularly robust corner bracing and secure gates, coupled with regular monthly inspections and post-storm checks to identify and rectify weaknesses before they lead to escapes or predator breaches.

Choosing the right fence for your sheep operation is one of the most important decisions you will make. The fence you select determines whether your flock stays safe from predators, whether your sheep stay where you put them, and how much time and money you spend on maintenance over the life of the fence. This guide covers the full range of sheep fencing options for predator control and containment, from traditional woven wire to high-tensile electric systems. It is written for sheep producers who are planning a new fence, replacing an old one, or trying to solve a specific predator problem. You will learn how to match fence type to your predator pressure, your flock size, and your budget, and you will get step-by-step guidance for installation and maintenance.

At a Glance

Woven wire sheep netting is the best all-around choice for permanent perimeter fences in most situations. It provides both containment and predator deterrence in one product.
Electric fencing is the most cost-effective option for large operations and for stopping specific predators like coyotes and dogs. It works well as a stand-alone system or as a hot wire added to an existing fence.
Predator-proof fencing requires taller fences, tighter mesh, and often a combination of woven wire and electric wires. No single fence type stops every predator in every situation.
Coyotes are the most common predator in most regions, but dogs, foxes, bobcats, bears, and feral hogs each require different fence adjustments.
A fence is only as good as its corners and gates. Poorly braced corners and sagging gates undermine even the best fence materials.
Regular inspection is essential. Walk your fence line monthly and after every major storm to catch problems before they become escapes or predator breaches.
Your local extension agent can help you identify the predators in your area and recommend fence designs that work for your specific region and terrain.

Why Sheep Fencing Matters More Than Other Livestock Fencing

Sheep are uniquely vulnerable to predators compared to cattle or hogs. They are smaller, they flock together in ways that make them easy targets, and they rarely fight back effectively. A single dog or coyote can kill dozens of sheep in one night, not because it is hungry but because the instinct to chase and kill is triggered by the panic of the flock. This makes fencing for sheep a predator control tool first and a containment tool second in many parts of the country.

Sheep are also more prone to entrapment injuries than other livestock. Their wool catches on barbed wire, their legs slip through wide mesh, and their heads can get stuck in openings that a cow or pig would never try. This means the fence you choose must protect sheep from predators without creating new hazards for the sheep themselves.

The economics of sheep fencing are different from cattle fencing as well. Sheep are worth less per head than cattle, so you cannot justify spending the same amount per foot of fence. But sheep losses to predators can be devastating to a small operation. Losing 10 percent of your flock to coyotes in a single season can wipe out your profit margin for the year. The right fence is an investment that pays for itself by preventing those losses.

Understanding Your Predator Pressure

Before you choose a fence, you need to know what predators you are fencing against. Predator pressure varies by region, by season, and by the type of land around your pasture. A fence that works perfectly in the Midwest may fail completely in the mountain West or in the Southeast.

Coyotes

Coyotes are the most widespread and destructive predator of sheep in North America. They are intelligent, adaptable, and capable of digging under, jumping over, or pushing through fences that stop most other predators. Coyotes typically hunt alone or in pairs, but they also hunt in packs during the winter and when denning with pups.

A coyote can jump a 6-foot fence from a standstill if it is motivated. They are also persistent diggers and will work at the base of a fence for hours to create a gap. The most effective coyote fences combine height with a tight bottom edge and often an electric wire to discourage digging and climbing.

Domestic Dogs

Domestic dogs are responsible for more sheep deaths in some regions than coyotes. Dogs that are not trained around livestock may chase sheep out of pure instinct, and a single dog can kill dozens of sheep in a short time. Dog attacks often happen during the day, unlike coyote attacks which are more common at dawn and dusk.

Dogs are less agile than coyotes and less likely to dig, but they are strong and can push through poorly constructed fences. A fence that stops coyotes will almost always stop dogs, but the reverse is not true. If your main predator problem is dogs, a well-built woven wire fence may be sufficient.

Foxes

Foxes are primarily a threat to lambs rather than mature sheep. A fox can kill a newborn lamb and can squeeze through surprisingly small openings in a fence. If foxes are your main predator, you need a fence with mesh small enough to exclude them, typically 4 inches or less, and you need to make sure there are no gaps at the bottom.

Bobcats and Mountain Lions

Bobcats are capable of climbing fences that would stop a coyote. They are also strong enough to kill adult sheep, though they typically target lambs. Mountain lions are a serious threat in the western states and can clear fences that stop every other predator.

For bobcats, a fence needs an electric wire near the top to discourage climbing. For mountain lions, no conventional fence is completely predator-proof. The best approach is a combination of tall woven wire, electric wires, and good husbandry practices like bringing sheep into a secure night pen.

Bears

Bears are strong enough to push through or tear down most fences. They are attracted to sheep and to lamb feed, and a bear that learns a pasture has sheep will keep coming back. Electric fencing is the most effective deterrent for bears, but it must be a strong system with multiple hot wires and a powerful energizer.

Feral Hogs

Feral hogs are a growing problem in the southern and central states. They root under fences, creating gaps that allow sheep to escape and predators to enter. Hog panels or a buried electric wire at the base of the fence are the most effective deterrents.

Types of Sheep Fencing

There are four main categories of sheep fencing: woven wire, high-tensile electric, electrified netting, and hybrid systems that combine multiple types. Each has strengths and weaknesses, and the right choice depends on your specific situation.

Woven Wire Sheep Netting

Woven wire netting, often called sheep netting or field fence, is the traditional choice for sheep operations. It consists of horizontal wires woven together with vertical stay wires to create a mesh pattern. The mesh openings are smaller at the bottom and larger at the top, which keeps lambs in while allowing the fence to be lighter and less expensive than a fence with uniform mesh throughout.

Sheep netting is available in different heights, typically from 26 inches to 48 inches, and in different mesh configurations. The most common types are:

4-inch by 4-inch mesh: The tightest common mesh, suitable for lambs and for excluding foxes.
6-inch by 6-inch mesh: A good all-purpose mesh for mature sheep, but lambs can sometimes squeeze through the bottom rows.
6-inch by 12-inch mesh: A lighter, less expensive mesh for mature sheep in low-pressure areas.
Combination mesh: Tighter at the bottom (4-inch or 6-inch) and wider at the top (12-inch or 16-inch), which balances cost with predator protection.

Woven wire fences are the best choice when you need a permanent fence that requires no ongoing operating cost. Once installed, a good woven wire fence can last 20 to 30 years with minimal maintenance. It provides a physical barrier that stops most predators and contains sheep even if the power goes out or the energizer fails.

The main disadvantages of woven wire are the initial cost and the labor required for installation. A woven wire fence is more expensive per foot than an electric fence, and it requires more posts and more careful installation to be effective. It is also more difficult to move if you practice rotational grazing and need to change your paddock layout.

High-Tensile Electric Fence

High-tensile electric fencing uses smooth or slightly twisted wire that is energized by a fence charger. The wire is held under high tension, typically 150 to 250 pounds per linear foot, which makes it both strong and effective at delivering a shock to any animal that touches it.

High-tensile electric fences can be built with anywhere from one to twelve wires, depending on the purpose. For sheep, a typical predator control fence uses five to seven wires, with the bottom wire close to the ground to discourage digging and the top wire at 40 to 48 inches to discourage jumping.

The advantages of high-tensile electric fencing are its lower cost per foot, its ease of installation, and its flexibility. You can add wires, remove wires, or move the entire fence to a new location. Electric fences also teach predators to stay away, because they learn that the fence delivers a painful shock.

The main disadvantage is that an electric fence only works when it is properly charged and maintained. If the power goes out, if vegetation shorts out the wires, or if the energizer fails, you have no fence at all. This makes electric fencing a poor choice as a sole perimeter fence in areas with frequent power outages or heavy vegetation growth.

Electrified Netting

Electrified netting is a portable fencing system that combines plastic netting with built-in electric wires. It is available in rolls of 50 to 300 feet and can be moved easily to create temporary paddocks for rotational grazing.

Electrified netting is an excellent choice for sheep operations that practice intensive rotational grazing. It is quick to set up, effective at containing sheep, and provides a moderate level of predator deterrence. The netting is typically 3 to 4 feet tall with vertical strands spaced 4 to 6 inches apart.

The main limitation of electrified netting is that it is not predator-proof against determined predators. Coyotes can push through or jump over the netting, especially if the charge is weak or the netting is not properly grounded. Electrified netting is best used as an interior fence for grazing management, with a stronger perimeter fence for predator control.

Hybrid Systems

Many successful sheep operations use a combination of fence types. A common approach is a perimeter fence of woven wire with one or two hot wires added, one near the top to discourage climbing and one near the bottom to discourage digging. Another approach is a high-tensile electric perimeter with woven wire interior fences for handling pens and lambing areas.

Hybrid systems give you the best of both worlds: the physical barrier of woven wire for basic containment and predator deterrence, plus the psychological deterrent of electric shock. They are more expensive than a single fence type but provide a higher level of protection.

Choosing the Best Fence for Sheep

The best fence for your operation depends on five factors: predator pressure, terrain, flock size, management style, and budget. There is no single best fence for every situation, but there are clear decision rules that will help you choose.

Low Predator Pressure

If you have minimal predator problems, such as no coyotes or dogs in your area and only occasional fox pressure, a simple woven wire fence may be sufficient. Choose a 4-foot fence with 6-inch by 12-inch combination mesh and use line posts every 12 to 16 feet. This fence will contain your sheep and deter casual predators without a large investment.

Moderate Predator Pressure

If you have coyotes or dogs in your area, you need a fence that is specifically designed for predator control. A 5-foot woven wire fence with 4-inch by 4-inch mesh at the bottom and a hot wire at the top is a good starting point. Add a second hot wire at the bottom, 6 to 8 inches above the ground, to discourage digging.

High Predator Pressure

If you have heavy coyote pressure, bears, or mountain lions, you need a serious predator-proof fence. This means a 6-foot fence with tight mesh, multiple hot wires, and careful attention to the bottom edge. You may also need to bury wire along the bottom to prevent digging, and you should consider adding a hot wire at the top to discourage climbing.

In extreme predator situations, no fence is completely predator-proof. You should combine fencing with other predator control methods, such as livestock guardian dogs, night penning, and removal of problem predators.

Rotational Grazing

If you practice rotational grazing and move your sheep frequently, you need portable fencing. Electrified netting is the best choice for interior paddock fences. You can set up a new paddock in 30 minutes and move the netting as often as needed. For the perimeter, use a permanent high-tensile electric fence or woven wire fence that defines the boundary of your grazing area.

Budget Considerations

Woven wire fences have the highest initial cost but the lowest long-term cost. High-tensile electric fences have a lower initial cost but require ongoing maintenance and electricity. Electrified netting has a moderate initial cost but wears out faster and needs periodic replacement.

When comparing costs, calculate the cost per foot over the expected life of the fence. A woven wire fence that costs $3 per foot and lasts 25 years costs 12 cents per foot per year. A high-tensile electric fence that costs $1.50 per foot and lasts 15 years costs 10 cents per foot per year, but you must add the cost of the energizer, electricity, and maintenance.

Step-by-Step Fence Installation

Installing a sheep fence correctly is critical to its performance. A poorly installed fence will fail regardless of the materials you use. Follow these steps for a professional-quality installation.

Step 1: Plan Your Fence Line

Walk the entire fence line before you start. Mark the corners and gate locations. Clear a 4 to 6 foot strip of vegetation along the fence line so you can work easily and so the fence will not be shorted out by grass and weeds.

Check your property lines and any local fencing regulations. In many areas, you are responsible for fencing your livestock in, and you may be required to maintain a certain type of fence along property boundaries. Your local extension agent can help you understand the rules in your area.

Step 2: Set Corner Posts

Corner posts are the most important part of any fence. They carry the tension of the entire fence line, and if they fail, the fence will sag and become ineffective. Use 6 to 8 inch diameter pressure-treated wooden posts or heavy steel posts for corners. Set them at least 3 feet deep in concrete.

Install brace assemblies at every corner and at every gate opening. A brace assembly consists of a corner post, a brace post, and a diagonal brace wire or wooden brace. The brace transfers the tension from the corner post to the brace post, preventing the corner from pulling over.

Step 3: Install Line Posts

Line posts support the fence between corners. For woven wire, use line posts every 10 to 12 feet. For high-tensile electric, you can space posts 20 to 30 feet apart, but 15 to 20 feet is easier to work with and provides more support.

Wooden posts, steel T-posts, and fiberglass posts all work for line posts. Steel T-posts are the most common choice for sheep fences because they are inexpensive, easy to install, and durable. Set line posts at least 2 feet deep, or drive them into the ground with a post driver.

Step 4: Install Woven Wire

Start at a corner post and unroll the woven wire along the fence line. Attach the wire to the corner post with fence staples or wire ties, then stretch it to the next corner using a fence stretcher or come-along.

The wire should be tight enough that it does not sag, but not so tight that it pulls the posts out of alignment. A good rule of thumb is that the wire should be tight enough to twang when you pluck it, but not so tight that it strains the posts.

Attach the wire to each line post with staples or wire ties. Drive the staples in at an angle so they do not pinch the wire and cause it to break. Space the staples every 12 inches along the wire.

Step 5: Install Electric Wires

If you are adding electric wires to your woven wire fence, install insulators on the top of the posts for the top hot wire and near the bottom for the bottom hot wire. Run the wire through the insulators and attach it to the energizer.

For a high-tensile electric fence, install the wires one at a time, starting with the bottom wire and working up. Use in-line strainers or ratchets to tension each wire. The wires should be tight enough that they do not sag between posts.

Step 6: Install Gates

Gates should be at least 4 feet wide for sheep, and 5 to 6 feet wide if you need to move equipment through them. Use a rigid gate frame with welded wire or a heavy-duty panel gate. The gate opening needs the same brace assembly as a corner to support the tension of the fence on either side.

Install a gate that swings freely and latches securely. The bottom of the gate should be close to the ground to prevent sheep from squeezing under it and predators from crawling under it.

Step 7: Test and Inspect

Before you turn your sheep into the new fence, walk the entire fence line and check for problems. Look for gaps at the bottom, loose wires, and places where sheep or predators could get through. If you have electric wires, test the charge with a fence tester to make sure it is strong enough.

Common Fencing Mistakes

Many fence failures are caused by the same handful of mistakes. Avoiding these will save you time, money, and livestock.

Mistake 1: Weak Corners

The most common fence failure is a corner post that pulls over under tension. Fence corners need to be set deep, braced properly, and built with materials that can handle the load. A corner post that is only 2 feet deep or that has no brace assembly will fail within a season.

Mistake 2: Insufficient Height

Many sheep producers install a fence that is too short to stop predators. A 4-foot fence will stop most sheep but will not stop a motivated coyote or dog. If you have predator pressure, build your fence at least 5 feet tall, and consider 6 feet for high-pressure areas.

Mistake 3: Gaps Under the Fence

Sheep are clever about finding gaps under fences, and predators are even better at exploiting them. The bottom of your fence should be flush with the ground, and you should walk the line regularly to check for spots where animals have dug under the fence. In sandy or loose soil, consider burying the bottom of the fence 6 inches deep or adding a buried electric wire.

Mistake 4: Poor Grounding for Electric Fences

An electric fence is only as good as its ground system. The energizer needs a proper ground rod system to complete the circuit. A single short ground rod in dry soil will not provide a strong shock. Install at least 3 ground rods, 6 to 8 feet apart, connected with insulated wire, and keep the soil around them moist.

Mistake 5: Vegetation Shorting Out the Fence

Grass and weeds touching an electric fence will drain the charge and weaken the shock. You must keep the fence line clear of vegetation, especially during the growing season. This means regular mowing, weed whacking, or using a vegetation killer along the fence line.

Mistake 6: Using Barbed Wire for Sheep

Barbed wire is a poor choice for sheep fencing. Sheep have thick wool that catches on the barbs, causing injuries and entrapment. A sheep that gets caught in barbed wire can die from dehydration, starvation, or predator attack before you find it. Use smooth wire or woven wire for sheep fences.

Mistake 7: Not Matching the Fence to the Predator

A fence that works for one predator may fail for another. If you build a fence for coyotes but your problem is actually dogs, you may have built more fence than you need. If you build for dogs but your problem is bears, you have not built enough. Identify your predators before you build.

Decision Thresholds for Fence Upgrades

Knowing when to upgrade your fencing is as important as choosing the right fence in the first place. Watch for these signs that your current fence is not doing its job.

Repeated Predator Breaches

If you are losing sheep to predators despite having a fence, the fence is not adequate. A single breach is a warning sign. A second breach means you need to change your approach. Do not keep repairing the same fence and expecting different results.

Escapes

If your sheep are getting out of the fence regularly, the fence is failing as a containment tool. This is a safety issue for the sheep and a liability issue for you. Fix the problem before a sheep escapes onto a road or into a neighbor's property.

Increasing Predator Activity

If you are seeing more predator tracks, scat, or sightings near your pasture, predator pressure is increasing. This is the time to upgrade your fence, not after you have lost sheep. Predators that learn a pasture has sheep will keep coming back, and each visit makes them bolder.

Aging Fence

A woven wire fence that is 20 years old may look fine but may be rusting from the inside. Check the wire for rust, and check the posts for rot at ground level. If the fence is failing, replace it before it fails completely.

Changes in Land Use

If you are expanding your operation, moving to a new property, or changing your grazing system, reassess your fencing needs. A fence that worked for a small flock may not be adequate for a larger one, and a fence that worked for continuous grazing may not work for rotational grazing.

Monitoring and Recordkeeping

Good fence management requires regular monitoring and simple recordkeeping. You do not need a complex system, but you do need to walk your fence line and write down what you find.

Monthly Fence Inspection

Walk the entire fence line at least once a month. Look for:

Loose or broken wires
Posts that are leaning or loose
Gaps under the fence
Signs of digging along the fence line
Vegetation touching electric wires
Damage from falling trees or branches
Rust or corrosion on woven wire
Gate issues

Carry a pair of pliers, fence staples, and wire ties so you can make minor repairs on the spot. For larger problems, mark the location and come back with the right tools.

After-Storm Inspection

Walk the fence line after every major storm. High winds can blow trees onto fences, heavy rain can wash out posts, and snow can pull down wires. Catching storm damage early prevents escapes and predator breaches.

Recordkeeping

Keep a simple log of fence inspections and repairs. Note the date, what you found, and what you did to fix it. This record helps you identify patterns, such as a particular section of fence that keeps failing or a time of year when predator pressure increases.

Also keep records of predator losses. Note the date, the location, the number of sheep lost, and any evidence of the predator responsible. This information helps you decide when to upgrade your fence and when to call for help with predator control.

When to Call a Professional

There are times when you should call for professional help rather than trying to solve a fencing problem on your own.

Extension Agents

Your local extension agent is your first call for fencing advice. They can help you identify the predators in your area, recommend fence designs that are proven to work in your region, and connect you with local fencing contractors and suppliers. They can also help you understand cost-share programs that may help pay for predator-proof fencing.

Professional Fence Installers

If you are building a large fence or if you have difficult terrain, consider hiring a professional fence installer. A professional can install a fence faster and more accurately than most farmers, and the cost is often worth it for the quality of the result. Get multiple bids and ask for references before hiring anyone.

USDA Wildlife Services

If you have a serious predator problem that fencing alone cannot solve, contact your local USDA Wildlife Services office. They provide technical assistance and can help with predator removal in situations where fencing and other non-lethal methods have failed. They can also help you identify the specific predators causing your losses.

Veterinarians

If you find injured sheep in or near your fence, call your veterinarian. Sheep that have been caught in barbed wire, attacked by predators, or trapped under a fallen fence need prompt medical attention. Your veterinarian can treat injuries and help you determine whether the sheep can be saved.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best fence for sheep?

The best fence for sheep is a 5-foot woven wire fence with 4-inch by 4-inch mesh at the bottom and a hot wire at the top. This combination provides a physical barrier that contains sheep and deters most predators, plus an electric shock that teaches predators to stay away. For low predator pressure, a 4-foot woven wire fence may be sufficient. For high predator pressure, upgrade to a 6-foot fence with multiple hot wires.

How tall should a sheep fence be to keep coyotes out?

A coyote fence should be at least 5 feet tall, and 6 feet is better in areas with heavy coyote pressure. Coyotes can jump a 6-foot fence from a standstill, so height alone is not enough. Combine the height with a tight bottom edge, a hot wire near the top to discourage jumping, and a hot wire near the bottom to discourage digging.

Is electric fencing effective for sheep?

Electric fencing is effective for sheep when it is properly installed and maintained. Sheep learn to respect electric fences quickly, and a well-charged fence will contain them reliably. Electric fencing is also effective at deterring predators, because predators learn to avoid the shock. However, an electric fence only works when the power is on and the charge is strong. It should not be your only fence in areas with frequent power outages or heavy vegetation growth.

How much does sheep fencing cost per foot?

The cost of sheep fencing varies widely by material and installation method. Woven wire fence materials cost $1.50 to $3 per foot, plus the cost of posts, which adds another $1 to $2 per foot. High-tensile electric fence materials cost $0.50 to $1.50 per foot, plus the cost of the energizer. Electrified netting costs $1 to $2 per foot but needs to be replaced more often. Professional installation adds $1 to $3 per foot to any of these options.

Can I use cattle panels for sheep?

Cattle panels are not a good choice for sheep. The mesh openings are too large, and lambs can easily get their heads caught or squeeze through. Cattle panels are also shorter than the recommended height for predator control. Use woven wire sheep netting or electrified netting designed specifically for sheep instead.

How do I keep predators from digging under my fence?

To keep predators from digging under your fence, extend the fence below ground level or add a buried electric wire. Bury the bottom of a woven wire fence 6 to 12 inches deep, turning the bottom 6 inches outward away from the pasture to create an apron. For electric fences, add a hot wire 4 to 6 inches above the ground and another wire buried 2 to 3 inches deep along the fence line.

How often should I inspect my sheep fence?

Inspect your sheep fence at least once a month, and walk the entire fence line after every major storm. During the growing season, check electric fences more often to make sure vegetation is not shorting out the charge. If you have active predator pressure, inspect the fence weekly and look for signs of digging or attempted breaches.

Do I need a permit to build a sheep fence?

Permit requirements vary by location. In most rural areas, you can build a fence on your own property without a permit, but you should check with your local planning department before starting. You also need to know your property lines and any fencing requirements along property boundaries. Your local extension agent can help you understand the rules in your area.

Related Farming Guides

This section will be populated with links to related farming guides on sheep management, predator control, pasture management, and livestock guardian animals. Check back for updates.

Related Clinical & Scientific Guides

References

American Consortium for Small Ruminant Parasite Control (ACSRPC): https://www.wormx.info/
USDA APHIS Sheep Health: https://www.aphis.usda.gov/livestock-poultry-disease/sheep-goats
FAO Sheep and Goat Production: https://www.fao.org/animal-production/en/
FAO Animal Production and Health: https://www.fao.org/animal-production/en/
WOAH (World Organisation for Animal Health): https://www.woah.org/en/home/

This article is educational and is not a substitute for veterinary diagnosis, treatment, public-health guidance, or regulatory reporting.