Hay Feeding for Sheep: Quality, Storage, and Waste Reduction

By Dr. Zubair Khalid, DVM, MS, PhD · 2026-08-14

Key Takeaways

• Optimal hay for sheep, particularly mature ewes, comprises grass hay or a grass-legume mix, targeting 8-12% crude protein and 52-55% total digestible nutrients, to ensure adequate fiber for rumen function and essential nutrients without requiring costly supplementation.
• Hay quality assessment involves visual and tactile inspection: look for leafy stems, a green color indicating proper curing, soft texture, and a sweet smell; avoid hay that is yellow, brown, brittle, dusty, or moldy, as these indicate nutrient loss or spoilage.
• Effective hay feeders for sheep, designed to minimize waste, should feature vertical bars spaced 8-12 inches apart or a solid floor to catch dropped hay, reducing losses from 30-40% to an efficient 5-10%.
• Proper hay storage is critical for preserving nutritional value and preventing spoilage; store hay off the ground, covered from precipitation (e.g., with a tarp or in a well-drained shed), and in a well-ventilated area to mitigate moisture, sunlight, and air damage.
• Monitoring sheep health through regular body condition scoring (every 2-4 weeks during winter) and prompt veterinary consultation for signs like multiple sheep refusing feed, diarrhea, or rapid weight loss are crucial for timely intervention and flock health management.

Feeding hay to sheep is one of the most important management tasks on any sheep operation, yet it is also one of the most common sources of wasted money and poor flock performance. This guide covers everything you need to know about selecting quality hay, storing it properly, choosing the right hay feeder for sheep, and cutting waste to the bone. It is written for small flock owners, commercial producers, and anyone who wants to feed sheep more efficiently without sacrificing animal health. You will learn how to assess hay quality by sight and feel, how to build or buy a feeder that actually reduces losses, how to store hay so it keeps its nutritional value, and how to track your feeding program so you know what is working and what is not.

At a Glance

Understanding Hay Quality for Sheep

Hay quality is the single biggest factor in how well your sheep perform during the winter months or any time pasture is limited. Poor quality hay means sheep eat more to get the same nutrition, waste more through refusal, and lose body condition. High quality hay means sheep stay healthy, maintain weight, and produce strong lambs. Understanding what makes hay good or poor is the first step in building a better feeding program.

What Sheep Need From Hay

Sheep are ruminants, which means they have a four chamber stomach designed to digest fibrous plant material. Hay provides the fiber that keeps the rumen working properly. But hay is not just fiber. It also supplies protein, energy, vitamins, and minerals. The nutritional needs of sheep change throughout the year, and your hay quality should match those needs.

For mature ewes in early to mid pregnancy, a hay with 8 to 10 percent crude protein and a total digestible nutrient value of 52 to 55 percent is generally adequate. In late pregnancy, when lambs are growing rapidly inside the ewe, protein needs rise to 10 to 12 percent. Lactating ewes need even more, often 12 to 14 percent crude protein. Growing lambs and ram lambs kept for breeding also need higher protein hay.

If your hay is below these protein levels, you will need to supplement with grain, soybean meal, or another protein source. That adds cost and labor. It is almost always cheaper to buy better hay in the first place than to buy cheap hay plus supplements.

Types of Hay for Sheep

The main types of hay available to sheep producers are grass hay, legume hay, and mixtures of the two.

Grass hay includes timothy, orchard grass, brome, fescue, and native prairie grasses. Grass hay is generally lower in protein and energy than legume hay, but it is also lower in calcium, which can be an advantage for mature ewes. Grass hay is the safest choice for dry ewes and for sheep that do not need high levels of nutrition.

Legume hay includes alfalfa, clover, and birdsfoot trefoil. Legume hay is higher in protein, energy, and calcium than grass hay. Alfalfa is the most common legume hay fed to sheep. It is excellent for lactating ewes, growing lambs, and ewes in late pregnancy. The high calcium content is generally not a problem for sheep, unlike some other species, but it can contribute to urinary calculi in wethers if the calcium to phosphorus ratio is not balanced.

Mixed hay, sometimes called mixed grass legume hay, is often the best choice for a general sheep flock. It provides a balance of nutrients and is easier to manage than feeding pure alfalfa to sheep that do not need that much protein.

How to Judge Hay Quality by Sight and Feel

You do not need a laboratory to get a rough idea of hay quality. With practice, you can assess hay fairly well using your eyes, hands, and nose.

Look at the color. Good quality hay should be green, not yellow, brown, or bleached. Green color indicates the hay was cut at the right stage and cured without excessive rain or sun damage. Some loss of green color is normal, especially on the outside of bales, but the interior should be green.

Look at the leaf content. Leaves are the most nutritious part of the plant. Good hay should have a high proportion of leaves to stems. For legume hay, the leaves should still be attached to the stems, not shattered off into the bottom of the bale. For grass hay, look for seed heads that are still in the boot stage or just emerging, not fully mature and headed out.

Feel the texture. Good hay should be soft and pliable, not coarse, woody, or brittle. Hay that feels like straw is over mature and has lost much of its nutritional value. Hay that is dusty or moldy is a health risk and should be rejected.

Smell the hay. Good hay has a sweet, pleasant, hay-like smell. Musty, sour, or moldy odors indicate the hay was baled too wet or stored improperly. Hay with a strong odor of mold should never be fed to sheep.

Check for foreign material. Look for weeds, trash, wire, or other debris in the bale. Weeds reduce hay quality and can be toxic. Wire or other metal can cause hardware disease in sheep.

When to Test Hay

Visual inspection is useful, but it cannot tell you the exact protein, energy, and mineral content of your hay. If you are feeding a large flock, if your hay is of uncertain origin, or if you are feeding breeding ewes in late pregnancy, it is worth sending a sample to a forage testing laboratory.

A basic hay test costs roughly 20 to 40 dollars and gives you crude protein, acid detergent fiber, neutral detergent fiber, and total digestible nutrients. Some labs also test for minerals. The results let you balance rations accurately and avoid over or under feeding supplements.

To sample hay properly, use a hay probe or corer. Take core samples from at least 10 to 15 bales from the same field and cutting. Combine the cores into one sample bag and send it to the lab. Sample each cutting and each field separately because quality can vary significantly.

Common Hay Quality Problems

Several problems can reduce hay quality even when the hay looked good at cutting time.

Rain damage occurs when hay is rained on during curing. Rain leaches soluble nutrients out of the plant, especially sugars and proteins. Rain damaged hay is lower in energy and may be more prone to mold. The extent of damage depends on how much rain fell, how long the hay stayed wet, and how many times it was rained on.

Heat damage occurs when hay is baled too wet, usually above 20 percent moisture. Bacteria and fungi in the bale generate heat as they break down plant material. This heat can caramelize proteins, making them unavailable to the sheep. Heat damaged hay often has a dark brown color and a sweet, tobacco-like smell. In extreme cases, heat damage can cause spontaneous combustion.

Mold growth occurs when hay is stored in damp conditions or baled too wet. Moldy hay is dusty and can cause respiratory problems in sheep. Some molds produce mycotoxins that can cause abortions, poor growth, or other health issues. If hay is visibly moldy, it is safest to discard it or feed it only to animals that are not pregnant and then only with careful observation.

Over maturity is the most common hay quality problem. Hay cut late in the growing season has more fiber and less protein and energy. The plants have moved from vegetative growth to seed production, and the stems have become woody. Over mature hay looks coarse and straw-like, and sheep will waste a lot of it because they cannot chew it easily.

Choosing the Right Hay Feeder for Sheep

The phrase hay feeder for sheep covers a wide range of equipment, from simple racks to elaborate covered feeders. The right choice depends on your flock size, your budget, your labor availability, and the type of hay you feed. But the most important factor is waste reduction. A good feeder can cut hay waste from 30 to 40 percent down to 5 to 10 percent. Over the course of a winter, that difference can pay for the feeder many times over.

How Sheep Waste Hay

Sheep waste hay in several ways. They trample hay underfoot, they soil it with manure and urine, they pull it out of the feeder and drop it on the ground, and they refuse to eat stems or moldy portions. A feeder that minimizes these losses is worth the investment.

Trampling is the biggest source of waste when hay is fed on the ground. Sheep walk on the hay, pack it into the soil, and contaminate it with manure. Once hay is soiled, sheep will not eat it. Feeding on the ground in muddy conditions can waste 30 to 50 percent of the hay you put out.

Pulling and dropping is another major source of waste. When sheep eat from a hay feeder with openings that are too large, they pull out large clumps of hay, drop them on the ground, and then walk away. The dropped hay is then trampled and wasted.

Overeating and sorting also contribute to waste. Sheep will pick out the most palatable leaves and leave the stems. This is natural behavior, but a good feeder design can minimize how much hay is pulled out before sorting happens.

Types of Hay Feeders

There are several common types of hay feeders for sheep, each with advantages and disadvantages.

Ground feeding is the simplest method. You simply put hay out on the ground, either in a clean area or on a heavy mat or pallet. Ground feeding requires no equipment investment, but waste is high, especially in wet or muddy conditions. It is only acceptable for short term feeding or in dry, clean conditions with a small flock.

Hay racks are open frames with vertical bars or slats that hold hay. Sheep reach through the bars to eat. The key design feature is the spacing between bars. For sheep, bars should be spaced 8 to 12 inches apart. This allows sheep to pull out small bites of hay but prevents them from pulling out large clumps. Hay racks can be built from wood or metal and can be stationary or portable.

Hay feeders with solid floors are racks mounted over a tray or tub. The tray catches hay that falls as sheep eat, allowing them to eat it later instead of trampling it. Solid floor feeders are among the most effective at reducing waste. They can be built from a livestock water tank, a steel trough, or a wooden box with a slatted or solid bottom.

Circular hay feeders are round feeders with a central core that holds the hay and an outer ring where sheep stand. Sheep eat through openings in the outer ring. Circular feeders are efficient because they allow many sheep to eat at once and the hay is protected from trampling. They are commonly used for cattle but smaller versions work well for sheep.

Covered hay feeders have a roof or canopy over the hay storage area. The cover protects hay from rain and snow, which can soak the hay and make it unpalatable. Covered feeders are especially valuable in wet climates. Some covered feeders also have a solid floor, combining the benefits of both designs.

Slow feed hay nets are a newer option. These are nets with small openings that force sheep to pull out small amounts of hay at a time. Slow feed nets reduce waste and also slow down eating, which can reduce boredom and fighting in confined sheep. They are inexpensive and portable, but they can be a choking hazard if the netting tears and sheep get their heads tangled. Use them with supervision.

Building Your Own Hay Feeder

Many sheep producers build their own hay feeders to save money and customize the design. A simple hay rack can be built from lumber or metal pipe. A more elaborate feeder with a solid floor can be built from a stock tank or a wooden frame.

If you build a hay rack, consider these design points. The rack should be tall enough that sheep can reach the hay comfortably but not so tall that they can climb into it. The bottom of the rack should be at about the shoulder height of your sheep, roughly 24 to 30 inches. The bars should be vertical or slightly angled, and spaced 8 to 12 inches apart. The rack should have a solid back or be placed against a fence so hay does not fall through the back.

A solid floor feeder can be built from a 55 gallon drum cut in half lengthwise, a plastic livestock tub, or a wooden box. The key is to have a floor that catches dropped hay and a rack above the floor that prevents trampling. Place the rack over the floor so that hay falls into the tray rather than onto the ground.

If you build a feeder, use materials that are safe for sheep. Avoid sharp edges, protruding nails, or small openings that could trap a sheep's head. Use pressure treated lumber or metal that will resist rot and rust. Smooth all edges and corners.

Feeder Placement

Where you place your hay feeder matters almost as much as the feeder design itself. A well designed feeder in a bad location can still lead to waste and health problems.

Place feeders in well drained areas. Mud is the enemy of hay feeding. If the ground around the feeder becomes a quagmire, sheep will trample hay into the mud and refuse to eat it. If possible, place feeders on gravel, concrete, or a heavy rubber mat. Move feeders periodically to prevent buildup of manure and mud.

Place feeders away from water sources and shelter areas. Sheep tend to congregate around feeders, and the area can become contaminated with manure. Keeping feeders away from water troughs reduces the risk of water contamination.

Place feeders so that all sheep can access them easily. Dominant sheep will push subordinate sheep away from the feeder. If you have a flock with a wide range of sizes or ages, provide extra feeder space so that all sheep can eat. A good rule of thumb is to provide 12 to 16 inches of feeder space per mature ewe. For lambs, provide 8 to 10 inches.

Feeder Maintenance

Hay feeders require regular maintenance to work properly and stay safe. Check feeders weekly for damage, sharp edges, or broken bars. Repair or replace damaged parts promptly. Clean feeders between batches of hay to remove moldy hay, dust, and debris. In wet weather, check that feeders are not leaking or allowing water to pool around the base.

Hay Storage for Sheep

Proper hay storage for sheep is about protecting the nutritional value of the hay and minimizing waste. Hay that is stored improperly loses quality, becomes moldy, and may even catch fire. Good storage practices are simple and inexpensive compared to the cost of the hay they protect.

Why Storage Matters

Hay continues to lose quality after it is baled, but the rate of loss depends heavily on storage conditions. Hay stored outdoors and uncovered can lose 20 to 30 percent of its dry matter and even more of its nutritional value over a winter. Hay stored in a barn or under a tarp may lose only 5 to 10 percent. Over a season, that difference can be worth hundreds or thousands of dollars, depending on your flock size.

The main enemies of stored hay are moisture, sunlight, and air. Moisture causes mold and decay. Sunlight bleaches the hay and destroys vitamins, especially vitamin A. Air allows continued respiration and oxidation, which burns up sugars and reduces energy content.

Storage Options

The best storage option is a dry barn or shed with a roof and good drainage. Hay can be stacked in a barn with minimal loss. The barn should be well ventilated to allow moisture to escape, but the roof should keep rain and snow off the hay. The floor should be dry and raised above ground level if possible.

If a barn is not available, a tarp is the next best option. Cover the entire stack of hay with a heavy tarp, and weigh down the tarp with tires, sandbags, or straps. The tarp should extend down the sides of the stack and be secured so wind cannot lift it. Leave the ends of the stack partially open if possible to allow air circulation, but protect the top and sides from rain.

Hay can also be stored in a three sided shed or a pole barn. These structures protect hay from rain and snow while allowing air circulation. They are less expensive than a fully enclosed barn and are adequate for most hay storage.

Stacking Hay

How you stack hay affects both storage quality and safety. Hay bales should be stacked off the ground. Place them on pallets, tires, gravel, or a concrete pad. This keeps the bottom layer dry and prevents moisture from wicking up from the soil.

Stack hay in a way that allows air circulation. Do not pack bales too tightly. Leave small gaps between bales and between rows if possible. This allows air to move through the stack and carry away moisture.

Do not stack hay too high. High stacks are dangerous to build and to take apart, and they put excessive weight on the bottom bales. A stack of 5 to 6 bales high is generally safe for small square bales. Round bales should be stacked no more than 2 to 3 high, and they should be placed end to end rather than on top of each other if possible.

Storing Different Bale Types

The type of bale you use affects storage requirements.

Small square bales are the easiest to store because they are small and stack neatly. They dry quickly when properly cured and are less prone to heating than larger bales. They can be stored in a barn, under a tarp, or in a shed. The main risk is moisture wicking from the ground, so always keep them off the ground.

Large round bales are more challenging to store because of their size and shape. They are often stored outdoors, which leads to significant dry matter loss. If you store round bales outdoors, place them on a well drained area, preferably on gravel or pallets. Arrange them in rows with the flat ends touching and the round sides exposed. Leave space between rows for air circulation. Cover them with a tarp if possible, or use a bale sleeve or bale wrap.

Large square bales are heavier and denser than small squares. They store well in a barn or shed but are difficult to move and stack by hand. They should be stored on a level surface and stacked no more than 3 high.

Monitoring Stored Hay

Check stored hay regularly for signs of problems. Look for discoloration, mold, or a musty smell. Feel the bales for warmth, which indicates heating. Check the bottom layer for moisture wicking. Check tarps for tears or loose straps.

If you find moldy or spoiled hay, remove it from the stack and discard it. Do not feed moldy hay to sheep, especially pregnant ewes. If you find a hot bale, move it out of the stack and break it apart to allow it to cool. Hay that is hot to the touch can spontaneously combust, so take it seriously.

First In First Out

Use a first in, first out system for feeding stored hay. Feed the oldest hay first, and keep newer hay for later in the winter. This prevents hay from deteriorating while it waits to be fed. Keep a simple record of when each batch of hay was put into storage and which field or cutting it came from.

Reducing Hay Waste

Hay waste is one of the biggest hidden costs in sheep production. Most producers underestimate how much hay they lose to trampling, spoilage, and refusal. Reducing waste from 30 percent to 10 percent is like getting a 20 percent discount on all your hay. It is one of the easiest ways to improve your bottom line.

Measure Your Current Waste

Before you can reduce waste, you need to know how much you are wasting. A simple way to estimate waste is to weigh the hay you put out and the hay that is left uneaten. Do this over a few feeding periods to get an average.

Weigh a sample of bales to know the average bale weight. Then count how many bales you feed over a week. At the end of the week, collect and weigh the refused hay, including hay that was trampled into the ground. Divide the refused weight by the fed weight to get your waste percentage.

If you are wasting more than 15 percent, you have room for improvement. Most producers can get waste down to 5 to 10 percent with better equipment and management.

Strategies to Reduce Waste

Use a proper hay feeder for sheep. This is the single most effective way to reduce waste. A feeder with a solid floor and appropriately spaced bars can cut waste by half or more compared to ground feeding.

Feed hay in smaller amounts more frequently. Sheep waste less when they are given only what they can eat in a day or two. If you put out a week supply at once, sheep will sort through it, waste the less palatable parts, and soil the rest. Feeding daily or every other day keeps hay fresh and reduces waste.

Match hay quality to animal needs. Do not feed high quality alfalfa to dry ewes that only need grass hay. They will waste the excess protein and energy, and you will pay more for hay than necessary. Sort your flock by nutritional needs and feed accordingly.

Use a hay feeder with a bottom or tray. A solid floor catches dropped hay and allows sheep to eat it later. This simple feature can reduce waste by 10 to 20 percent.

Place feeders in dry, clean areas. Hay that falls on wet or muddy ground is wasted. Hay that falls on dry gravel or a mat can often be eaten.

Consider using a hay net or slow feed bag. These devices force sheep to eat more slowly and waste less. They are especially useful for small flocks or for feeding in confined areas.

Train your sheep to eat from the feeder. Some sheep, especially those used to ground feeding, may be reluctant to use a new feeder at first. Put a small amount of hay in the feeder and a small amount on the ground nearby. Gradually reduce the ground hay until the sheep are eating entirely from the feeder.

Avoid Overfeeding

Overfeeding is a common cause of waste. Many producers put out more hay than the sheep can eat, thinking they are being generous. But sheep cannot eat more than their fill, and excess hay is trampled, soiled, and wasted.

A mature ewe will eat 3 to 4 pounds of hay per day, depending on her size, stage of production, and the quality of the hay. A 150 pound ewe in mid pregnancy eating good quality grass hay will consume about 3.5 percent of her body weight in dry matter, or about 5 pounds. That is the dry matter weight, and hay is about 10 to 12 percent moisture, so the as fed weight is slightly higher.

Feed only what the sheep will clean up in 24 hours. If there is a lot of leftover hay at the next feeding, reduce the amount you put out. If the sheep clean up all the hay and are still vocal and searching for food, increase the amount slightly.

Dealing With Refused Hay

Even with the best management, there will always be some refused hay. Stems, moldy portions, and hay that has been soiled will be left in the feeder. Do not let this refused hay accumulate in the feeder. Remove it regularly and dispose of it or use it for other purposes.

Refused hay can be used as bedding, composted, or spread on pastures as organic matter. Do not feed it to sheep again, as it will likely be refused a second time and may harbor mold or bacteria.

Group Feeding Strategies

How you group sheep at feeding time affects waste and animal health. Sheep have a social hierarchy, and dominant animals will push subordinates away from the feeder. If all sheep cannot eat at once, subordinate animals may not get enough to eat, leading to uneven body condition.

Provide enough feeder space for all sheep to eat at once. A good rule is 12 to 16 inches of feeder space per ewe. If you cannot provide that much space, feed in multiple locations or in shifts.

Group sheep by size, age, and nutritional needs. Ewes in late pregnancy have different needs than dry ewes. Lambs need different feed than mature sheep. Feeding groups separately allows you to match hay quality to each group's needs and reduces competition.

Winter Feeding Considerations

Winter feeding presents special challenges for waste reduction. Snow and ice make it harder to keep hay dry and clean. Sheep may be more reluctant to eat hay that is frozen or covered with snow.

In winter, use a covered feeder or place feeders under a roof or overhang. This keeps snow and rain off the hay. Place feeders in areas that are sheltered from wind, as wind increases cold stress and makes sheep eat more.

Feed hay in the morning and evening rather than once a day. This provides a steady supply of feed and reduces the amount of hay exposed to weather at any one time. It also gives sheep a chance to eat during the warmer parts of the day.

Common Mistakes in Hay Feeding

Even experienced sheep producers make mistakes when feeding hay. Here are some of the most common problems and how to avoid them.

Feeding Poor Quality Hay

The most common mistake is feeding hay that is too low in quality for the animals being fed. This happens when producers buy cheap hay without testing it, or when they feed hay from the previous year that has lost quality in storage.

Poor quality hay leads to weight loss, poor wool quality, weak lambs, and increased susceptibility to disease. The cost of poor quality hay is not just the price of the hay, but the lost production and increased veterinary bills.

Solution: Test your hay, know what you are feeding, and match hay quality to animal needs. If your hay is poor, supplement with grain or protein to make up the difference.

Feeding Moldy or Dusty Hay

Moldy hay is a serious health risk for sheep. It can cause respiratory problems, digestive upsets, and abortions. Some molds produce toxins that can be fatal.

Dusty hay is also a problem, especially in confined feeding areas. Dust can cause respiratory irritation and pneumonia, especially in lambs.

Solution: Inspect all hay before feeding. Reject any bale with visible mold, a musty smell, or excessive dust. If you must feed dusty hay, wet it down slightly to reduce dust, and feed it in a well ventilated area. Never feed moldy hay to pregnant ewes.

Forgetting to Provide Water

Sheep need access to clean, fresh water at all times, but especially when eating dry hay. Hay is low in moisture, and sheep need water to digest it properly. A ewe eating 5 pounds of hay per day needs 1 to 2 gallons of water.

In winter, water can freeze, and sheep may not drink enough. This can lead to impaction, urinary calculi, and reduced feed intake.

Solution: Check water sources daily, break ice, and provide heated waterers if possible. Place water near the feeding area so sheep do not have to travel far to drink.

Feeding on the Ground

Ground feeding is convenient and requires no equipment, but it is the most wasteful and unhealthiest way to feed hay. Sheep trample hay, contaminate it with manure, and pick through it, leaving the best parts uneaten.

Ground feeding also increases the risk of parasite infection, as sheep pick up worm larvae from contaminated soil and manure.

Solution: Use a hay feeder for sheep. If you must feed on the ground, use a clean area, rotate feeding sites, and feed only enough for one day at a time.

Ignoring Body Condition

Body condition scoring is the best tool for monitoring whether your sheep are getting enough nutrition. A ewe that is losing body condition is not getting enough to eat, regardless of how much hay you are putting out.

Many producers do not check body condition until it is too late, and the ewes are thin and weak. By then, it is hard to recover.

Solution: Body condition score your sheep every 2 to 4 weeks during the winter feeding period. Adjust feeding levels based on what you find.

Abrupt Feed Changes

Sudden changes in feed can cause digestive upsets in sheep, including acidosis, bloat, and enterotoxemia. This is especially true when switching from pasture to hay, or from one type of hay to another.

Solution: Make feed changes gradually over 7 to 10 days. Mix the new feed with the old feed, gradually increasing the proportion of the new feed.

Overcrowding at the Feeder

Not providing enough feeder space leads to competition, bullying, and uneven feed intake. Subordinate sheep may not get enough to eat, while dominant sheep overeat.

Solution: Provide 12 to 16 inches of feeder space per ewe. If you cannot provide that much, feed in multiple locations or in shifts.

Monitoring and Recordkeeping

A good hay feeding program is not a set and forget operation. It requires regular monitoring and careful recordkeeping. This allows you to catch problems early, make adjustments, and improve your feeding program over time.

Body Condition Scoring

Body condition scoring is a system for assessing the fat cover and muscle mass of a sheep. It is done by feeling the spine, the loin area, and the brisket. Sheep are scored on a scale of 1 to 5, with 1 being emaciated and 5 being obese.

For most flocks, the target body condition score is 3.0 to 3.5 at breeding, 3.0 to 3.5 at mid pregnancy, and 2.5 to 3.0 at lambing. Ewes that are too thin at lambing will produce weak lambs and poor milk. Ewes that are too fat at lambing are prone to pregnancy toxemia and lambing difficulties.

Body condition scoring is a skill that takes practice. Work with your veterinarian or extension agent to learn the technique. Then score your sheep regularly and record the results.

Feed Intake Monitoring

Track how much hay you are feeding each week. This gives you a baseline for planning next year's hay purchases. It also helps you spot problems. If feed intake drops suddenly, it may indicate illness, poor hay quality, or a problem with the feeder.

Weigh a sample of bales to know the average bale weight. Then record how many bales you feed each day or week. Multiply the number of bales by the average weight to get the total weight fed.

Hay Quality Records

Keep records of each batch of hay you feed. Record the source, the field, the cutting date, the type of hay, the results of any hay tests, and your visual assessment. This helps you identify which hay works best for which group of sheep.

If you buy hay, keep the seller's contact information and any test results. If a batch of hay causes problems, you will want to know which batch it was.

Flock Health Records

Keep records of any health problems in your flock, including the date, the animal affected, the symptoms, and the treatment. This helps you spot patterns. If several sheep develop respiratory problems after being fed a new batch of hay, you will know to suspect the hay.

Feeding Schedule Records

Record your feeding schedule, including the time of day you feed and the amount you feed. This helps you maintain consistency and identify changes that might affect the sheep.

Seasonal Planning

Use your records to plan for next year. How much hay did you feed this winter? How much did it cost? What was the average quality? Could you have fed less by using a better feeder or by sorting your sheep into groups?

These questions are easier to answer if you have good records. The time you spend on recordkeeping pays off in better decisions and lower costs.

When to Call a Veterinarian or Extension Agent

Most hay feeding problems can be solved with good management. But there are times when you need professional help. Knowing when to call can save you money and protect your flock.

Signs That Require a Veterinarian

Call a veterinarian immediately if you see any of these signs:

Multiple sheep refusing to eat. If several sheep suddenly stop eating, it could indicate a problem with the hay, such as mold, mycotoxins, or an unusual plant toxin.

Diarrhea or scours in multiple sheep. This could indicate a digestive upset, a bacterial infection, or a toxin in the feed.

Rapid weight loss or weakness. If sheep are losing weight despite adequate feed, there may be a health problem such as internal parasites, Johne's disease, or a chronic infection.

Abortions. If ewes abort, especially if several abort at the same time, call a veterinarian immediately. Abortions can be caused by infectious diseases such as chlamydia, toxoplasmosis, or campylobacter, which can also affect humans.

Respiratory problems. Coughing, nasal discharge, or labored breathing can indicate pneumonia, which can be caused by dusty or moldy hay.

Neurological signs. Staggering, circling, head pressing, or seizures can indicate listeriosis, which is often associated with poor quality silage or hay.

Sudden death. If sheep die suddenly and you do not know why, call a veterinarian for a necropsy. This can identify the cause and prevent further losses.

When to Call an Extension Agent

Your local extension agent is a valuable resource for non emergency questions about hay feeding. Call your extension agent for help with:

Hay testing and ration balancing. Your extension agent can help you interpret hay test results and formulate a balanced ration for your flock.

Feeder design and selection. Extension agents have seen many different feeder designs and can recommend one that will work for your situation.

Hay storage planning. If you are building a hay storage facility, your extension agent can advise on design and materials.

Budgeting and cost analysis. If you want to compare the cost of different feeding systems, your extension agent can help you do the math.

Pasture and forage management. If you want to improve your pastures to reduce your hay needs, your extension agent can help you develop a grazing plan.

Building a Relationship With Professionals

The best time to call a veterinarian or extension agent is before you have a problem. Establish a relationship with a veterinarian who has experience with sheep. Have them visit your farm, examine your flock, and review your feeding program. This gives you a baseline for comparison if problems arise later.

Similarly, get to know your extension agent. Attend workshops, ask questions, and invite them to your farm. They are an underused resource that can save you money and help you avoid costly mistakes.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much hay does a sheep eat per day?

A mature ewe will eat about 3.5 percent of her body weight in dry matter per day. For a 150 pound ewe, that is about 5 pounds of dry matter, or about 5.5 pounds of hay as fed. A growing lamb will eat about 3 to 4 percent of its body weight. The actual amount depends on hay quality, stage of production, weather, and activity level. Ewes in late pregnancy and lactation eat more, as do sheep in cold weather.

What is the best hay for sheep?

The best hay for sheep is a high quality grass hay or a grass legume mix with 8 to 12 percent crude protein for mature ewes. Alfalfa is excellent for lactating ewes and growing lambs but may be too rich for dry ewes. The key is matching hay quality to the nutritional needs of the animals. Test your hay and feed according to the results.

How can I reduce hay waste when feeding sheep?

The most effective way to reduce hay waste is to use a hay feeder for sheep with a solid floor and bars spaced 8 to 12 inches apart. Feed smaller amounts more frequently, feed only what sheep will clean up in 24 hours, and place feeders in dry, well drained areas. These practices can cut waste from 30 to 40 percent down to 5 to 10 percent.

Can sheep eat alfalfa hay?

Yes, sheep can eat alfalfa hay, and it is an excellent feed for lactating ewes, growing lambs, and ewes in late pregnancy. Alfalfa is high in protein, energy, and calcium. However, alfalfa may be too rich for dry ewes, and the high calcium content can contribute to urinary calculi in wethers if the calcium to phosphorus ratio is not balanced. Feed alfalfa to the animals that need it and use grass hay for the rest.

How do I know if my hay is good quality?

Good quality hay is green, leafy, soft, and sweet smelling. It should have a high proportion of leaves to stems, and the stems should be pliable, not woody. Avoid hay that is yellow, brown, moldy, dusty, or coarse. For a precise measurement of protein and energy, send a sample to a forage testing laboratory.

How should I store hay for sheep?

Store hay off the ground on pallets, tires, or gravel. Keep it covered with a roof or a tarp to protect it from rain and snow. Stack hay loosely to allow air circulation, and use a first in, first out system to feed the oldest hay first. Monitor stored hay regularly for mold, heating, or moisture damage.

Should I feed hay on the ground or in a feeder?

Always use a hay feeder for sheep rather than feeding on the ground. Ground feeding wastes 30 to 50 percent of the hay, contaminates it with manure, and increases the risk of parasite infection. A good feeder with a solid floor can reduce waste to 5 to 10 percent.

How often should I feed hay to sheep?

Feed hay daily or every other day. Feeding smaller amounts more frequently reduces waste and keeps hay fresh. Sheep should have access to hay for most of the day, but you do not need to keep hay in front of them at all times. Feed enough for all sheep to eat their fill in 24 hours, and adjust the amount based on how much is left over.

What should I do if my sheep are losing weight on hay?

First, check your hay quality. If the hay is low in protein or energy, you may need to supplement with grain or a protein source. Second, check your feeder space. If dominant sheep are pushing subordinates away, the subordinates may not be getting enough to eat. Third, check for internal parasites, which can cause weight loss despite adequate feed. If you cannot identify the problem, call your veterinarian.

Can I feed moldy hay to sheep?

No, do not feed moldy hay to sheep. Mold can cause respiratory problems, digestive upsets, and abortions. Some molds produce mycotoxins that can be fatal. If hay is visibly moldy, discard it or use it for bedding. Never feed moldy hay to pregnant ewes.

Related Farming Guides

This section will be populated with links to other farming guides on this site. Check back soon for related articles on sheep nutrition, flock health, pasture management, and winter feeding strategies.

Related Clinical & Scientific Guides

• Sheep Grazing Lease: Terms, Rates, and Legal Considerations
• Sheep Breed Selection for Meat, Wool, Dairy, and Low-Input Systems
• Sheep Barn Flooring for Hoof Health: Best Materials and Practices

References

• American Consortium for Small Ruminant Parasite Control (ACSRPC): https://www.wormx.info/
• USDA APHIS Sheep Health: https://www.aphis.usda.gov/livestock-poultry-disease/sheep-goats
• FAO Sheep and Goat Production: https://www.fao.org/animal-production/en/
• FAO Animal Production and Health: https://www.fao.org/animal-production/en/
• WOAH (World Organisation for Animal Health): https://www.woah.org/en/home/

This article is educational and is not a substitute for veterinary diagnosis, treatment, public-health guidance, or regulatory reporting.