Rabbit Biosecurity for Housing: Preventing Disease Introduction and Spread

By Dr. Zubair Khalid, DVM, MS, PhD · 2026-08-14

Key Takeaways

Biosecurity is a multi-faceted system encompassing facility design, animal management, human behavior, and rigorous cleaning/disinfection protocols to mitigate disease introduction and spread in housed rabbitries.
Quarantine of all new stock for a minimum of 30 days, ideally 60, is non-negotiable, as subclinical carriers of pathogens like Pasteurella multocida can shed agents without visible symptoms.
Fomites (contaminated inanimate objects such as hands, clothing, feeders, and equipment) represent the most significant transmission vector, necessitating strict traffic control, dedicated tools, and meticulous cleaning before disinfection.
Effective cleaning involves a five-step process: removal of organic matter, washing with detergent, rinsing, disinfecting with appropriate agents (e.g., accelerated hydrogen peroxide, 1:10 bleach), and thorough drying.
Daily monitoring of rabbit behavior, appetite, fecal output, and physical condition is crucial for early detection of illness, enabling prompt isolation and veterinary intervention to prevent herd-wide outbreaks.
Pest control (rodents, insects) and proper waste management are integral to biosecurity, as these vectors can transmit enteric diseases (e.g., coccidiosis, salmonellosis) and respiratory pathogens.

Raising rabbits in a housed environment, whether for meat, fiber, show, or breeding stock, requires more than daily feeding and cleaning. The single greatest threat to a rabbit operation is the introduction of disease, and once introduced, the rapid spread through a susceptible population. This guide provides a complete, practical framework for building and maintaining a biosecurity plan tailored to housed rabbits. It is written for small-scale homesteaders, commercial rabbit farmers, 4-H families, and anyone managing a rabbitry. You will learn how diseases enter a facility, how to design and implement quarantine and sanitation protocols, how to monitor your herd for early signs of trouble, and when to seek professional veterinary help. The goal is not to eliminate all risk, but to reduce it to a manageable, practical level that protects your investment and your animals' welfare.

At a Glance

Biosecurity is a system, not a single task. It combines facility design, animal management, human behavior, and cleaning protocols.
Quarantine is non-negotiable. Any rabbit entering your herd, even from a trusted source, must be isolated for a minimum of 30 days, ideally 60.
Disease spreads through fomites. Contaminated hands, clothing, shoes, feeders, water bottles, and equipment are the most common vectors, not just direct animal contact.
Clean before you disinfect. Disinfectants cannot penetrate organic matter like manure, urine, and feed residue. Physical removal is the first and most critical step.
Use a footbath and change it daily. A dry, dirty footbath is a false sense of security and can actually spread pathogens.
Control traffic. Limit visitors, and maintain a clear separation between "clean" and "dirty" areas of your facility.
Monitor daily. Know what "normal" looks like for your rabbits. Early detection of a sick animal is your best chance to prevent a herd-wide outbreak.
Have a plan for new stock. Decide before you buy whether you are introducing new genetics or a potential disease risk, and plan accordingly.

Understanding Disease Transmission in Rabbitries

To build an effective biosecurity plan, you must first understand how diseases actually move. In a housed rabbitry, the chain of transmission is a series of events. If you can break any link in that chain, you stop the disease.

The Chain of Infection

Every disease outbreak follows a similar pattern. There is a pathogen (the causative agent, like a virus, bacterium, fungus, or parasite). There is a reservoir (where the pathogen lives and multiplies, such as an infected rabbit, a carrier animal, or contaminated bedding). There is a portal of exit (how the pathogen leaves the reservoir, such as through nasal secretions, feces, urine, or blood). There is a mode of transmission (the vehicle that carries the pathogen, such as air, water, feed, a human hand, or a contaminated brush). There is a portal of entry (how the pathogen enters a new host, such as through the respiratory tract, digestive tract, or a skin wound). Finally, there is a susceptible host (a rabbit that is not immune).

Your biosecurity plan is designed to break these links. You will eliminate reservoirs through quarantine and culling. You will block portals of exit by isolating sick animals. You will interrupt modes of transmission through sanitation and traffic control. You will protect portals of entry by minimizing stress and maintaining good husbandry.

Primary Modes of Transmission

Direct Contact: This occurs when an infected rabbit touches a susceptible rabbit. This is common for diseases like rabbit syphilis (vent disease) and some viral infections. It is the most obvious mode, but not always the most common in a well-managed facility where rabbits are housed individually.
Indirect Contact (Fomites): This is the most significant risk in most rabbitries. A fomite is any inanimate object that can carry a pathogen. This includes your hands, clothing, shoes, boots, feed scoops, water bottle sipper tubes, nest boxes, grooming tools, transport carriers, and even the cart you use to move feed. A pathogen like Pasteurella multocida can survive on a contaminated surface for days. You can carry it from a neighbor's rabbitry to your own on the bottom of your shoe without ever touching an animal.
Aerosol (Airborne): Some pathogens, particularly respiratory ones like Pasteurella and Bordetella, can be transmitted through tiny droplets in the air. This is especially a concern in poorly ventilated, crowded barns. The distance these droplets can travel is limited but significant within a single room.
Vector-Borne: Insects, rodents, and wild birds can act as mechanical vectors. Flies can carry pathogens from manure to feed. Rodents can contaminate feed and bedding with urine and feces, potentially spreading diseases like Tyzzer's disease or salmonellosis. Wild rabbits and hares can introduce diseases if they gain access to your barn or pasture.
Fecal-Oral: This is a common route for enteric (intestinal) diseases like coccidiosis and E. coli. Rabbits ingest feed or water contaminated with feces. Good sanitation and feed storage are critical to breaking this chain.

The Danger of Subclinical Carriers

A major challenge in rabbit biosecurity is the subclinical carrier. This is an animal that is infected with a pathogen but shows no outward signs of illness. Pasteurella multocida, the cause of snuffles, is a classic example. A rabbit can carry the bacteria in its nasal passages for its entire life without ever showing symptoms. It appears healthy, passes a visual inspection, and then sheds the bacteria when stressed, infecting other rabbits. This is why quarantine and testing are essential. A visual check alone is not sufficient to determine if a rabbit is disease-free.

Designing Your Biosecurity Plan: A Step-by-Step Guide

A biosecurity plan is a written document that outlines your specific protocols. It does not need to be complex, but it must be written down and followed consistently. This is your farm's standard operating procedure for disease prevention.

Step 1: Conduct a Risk Assessment

Walk through your facility as if you are a pathogen. Where are the weak points?

Traffic Flow: Where do people enter and exit? Can visitors walk directly into the rabbitry, or is there a buffer zone? Where do you park? Can a delivery driver get close to your feed storage?
Animal Flow: Where do new rabbits go? Is there a designated quarantine area that is physically separate from the main herd? How do you move rabbits to and from shows or sales?
Equipment Flow: Do you share tools, feeders, or water bottles between pens? Where do you clean your equipment? Is the cleaning area close to the rabbitry, or do you have to carry dirty equipment through clean areas?
Pest Control: Are there gaps in doors or windows? Do you have a rodent control program? Is feed stored in rodent-proof containers?
Waste Management: Where does manure go? Is it piled near the barn, potentially attracting flies? How is dead stock disposed of?
Water and Feed Sources: Where does your water come from? Is your feed stored off the ground and protected from moisture and pests?

Step 2: Establish a Perimeter and Traffic Control

Your biosecurity plan starts at your property line, not at the barn door.

Designate a Clean/Dirty Line: This is the boundary between the outside world (dirty) and your rabbitry (clean). It can be the door to your barn, a line painted on the floor of a mudroom, or the gate to a fenced area. The rule is simple: nothing crosses the line without being cleaned, disinfected, or designated as clean.
Control Human Traffic: The most common way disease enters a rabbitry is on people. Do not allow visitors into the rabbitry unless absolutely necessary. If you must have a visitor, require them to wear clean coveralls and boots that you provide, or disposable boot covers. Have them wash their hands thoroughly before entering.
Create a Layaway Area: This is a designated spot where you can "lay away" items that cannot be easily cleaned, like a notebook or a cell phone. You should not carry these items into the rabbitry.
Manage Your Own Movements: If you visit another rabbitry, a feed store, a fair, or a show, change your clothes and shoes before working with your own rabbits. This is called "all-in, all-out" for people. If you cannot change clothes, at least change your footwear and wash your hands thoroughly.

Step 3: Implement a Quarantine Protocol

Rabbit quarantine is the most important step you can take to prevent the introduction of disease. It is not optional if you are serious about herd health.

Designate a Quarantine Facility: This must be a separate building or room, physically isolated from your main rabbitry. If a separate building is not possible, use a room that is as far away as possible and has its own air supply. The quarantine area should have its own tools, feeders, water bottles, and cleaning supplies. Do not share anything between quarantine and the main herd.
Duration of Quarantine: The minimum recommended quarantine period is 30 days. A 60-day period is better and is recommended by many experts. Some diseases, like Pasteurella, can have a long incubation period. A longer quarantine gives you more time to observe the animal and, if possible, run diagnostic tests.
Quarantine Protocol:
Unpack and House: Place the new rabbit in a clean, disinfected cage in the quarantine area. Do not put it in a cage that was recently used by another rabbit without cleaning it first.
Observe: Spend time with the quarantined rabbit every day. Look for signs of illness: sneezing, nasal discharge, watery eyes, diarrhea, hair loss, lumps, or lethargy. Weigh the rabbit regularly to ensure it is eating and maintaining condition.
Test (If Possible): Work with your veterinarian to determine if testing is appropriate for the diseases of concern in your area. Testing for Pasteurella multocida via a nasal swab or blood test can be useful, but it is not foolproof.
Handle Last: Always handle your quarantined rabbits last, after you have finished caring for the main herd. This prevents you from accidentally carrying a pathogen from quarantine to your healthy rabbits.
Record Everything: Keep a log for each quarantined rabbit. Note its origin, date of arrival, daily observations, and any treatments.
When Quarantine Ends: If the rabbit has shown no signs of illness for the full quarantine period, it can be introduced to the main herd. However, it is wise to introduce it gradually. Place it in a cage in the same room but away from other rabbits for a few days to allow it to adjust to the new environment and for you to monitor its stress levels.

Step 4: Master the Art of Cleaning and Disinfection

Cleaning and disinfection are two separate processes. You cannot disinfect a dirty surface.

The Five-Step Process:
Remove: Remove the rabbit from the cage. Remove all bedding, manure, and feed.
Wash: Use a brush, hot water, and a good-quality soap or detergent to scrub all surfaces. This physically removes the organic matter that protects pathogens. Pay special attention to corners, wire floors, and the underside of feeders.
Rinse: Rinse thoroughly with clean water to remove all soap residue. Soap can inactivate some disinfectants.
Disinfect: Apply a disinfectant that is appropriate for the pathogen you are targeting. Follow the label instructions for dilution and contact time. The surface must remain wet for the specified time to be effective.
Dry: Allow the cage to air dry completely before putting a rabbit back in it. Many pathogens, including coccidia, are killed by drying. A dry cage is a safer cage.
Choosing a Disinfectant: Not all disinfectants are created equal. Many common household cleaners are not effective against rabbit pathogens.
Diluted Bleach (Sodium Hypochlorite): A 1:10 dilution of household bleach in water is an effective, inexpensive disinfectant against many bacteria and viruses. However, it is corrosive, has a strong odor, and is inactivated by organic matter. It is best used on hard, non-porous surfaces after thorough cleaning. Rinse well after use.
Accelerated Hydrogen Peroxide (AHP): Products like Rescue or Accel are excellent choices. They are broad-spectrum, effective in the presence of some organic matter, and safer for the user and the environment than bleach. They are a good option for routine disinfection.
Quaternary Ammonium Compounds (Quats): These are common in many barn cleaners. They are effective against many bacteria and some viruses, but they are not effective against all pathogens and can be inactivated by soap. They are a good choice for general cleaning but may not be sufficient for high-risk situations.
Phenolic Compounds: These are often used in footbaths. They are effective against many bacteria and viruses but can be toxic to cats and should be used with caution.
Heat: Steam cleaning or pressure washing with hot water is an excellent way to clean and disinfect. A flame torch can be used on metal surfaces, but this is a fire hazard and should only be done by experienced individuals.
The Footbath Dilemma: A footbath can be a useful tool, but it is often used incorrectly. A footbath with a visible layer of manure is not disinfecting your boots, it is just adding more pathogens. The footbath must be cleaned and refilled with fresh disinfectant daily. It should be large enough and deep enough that you can step in it and have your boot sole fully submerged. A dry footbath is useless. Consider it a tool for reducing risk, not eliminating it.

Step 5: Manage Feed, Water, and Waste

Feed Storage: Store feed in a clean, dry, rodent-proof container. A galvanized metal trash can with a tight-fitting lid is ideal. Do not store feed on the ground. Buy feed in quantities that you will use within a few weeks to ensure freshness. Never feed moldy or spoiled feed.
Water Systems: Clean and disinfect water bottles and sipper tubes at least once a week. The inside of a water bottle can develop a biofilm that harbors bacteria. If you use an automatic watering system, clean and flush the lines regularly according to the manufacturer's instructions. Check for leaks, which can create damp conditions that promote bacterial growth.
Waste Management: Remove manure and soiled bedding from the rabbitry daily. This is the single most important thing you can do to reduce fly populations and ammonia levels. Compost the manure properly. The heat generated during composting will kill many pathogens. Store dead stock in a secure container until it can be disposed of properly, either by burial, composting, or incineration, according to local regulations.

Step 6: Implement a Pest Control Program

Rodents and insects are more than a nuisance. They are vectors for disease.

Rodents: Mice and rats can carry diseases like salmonellosis and leptospirosis. They can also contaminate feed and chew on equipment. Implement a three-pronged approach: 1) Remove their food and harborage by keeping the area around the barn clean and feed stored properly. 2) Seal entry points. Fill gaps in walls, doors, and windows. 3) Trap or poison. Use snap traps or bait stations. If you use poison, be extremely careful that rabbits cannot access it.
Flies: Flies breed in manure and can spread pathogens from cage to cage. Reduce fly breeding by removing manure daily and keeping the area dry. Use fly traps and sticky tape. In severe cases, you may consider using a fly predator (a type of parasitic wasp) that kills fly pupae.
Wild Birds: Prevent wild birds from entering your barn. They can carry diseases and contaminate feed. Use bird netting or screens on open windows and doors.

Step 7: Manage Your Own Movement and Health

You are the most important vector in your rabbitry. Your habits are the foundation of your biosecurity plan.

Hand Washing: Wash your hands with soap and warm water before entering the rabbitry and after handling any rabbit, especially if you have been handling a rabbit outside your main herd. An alcohol-based hand sanitizer is a good backup, but it is not a substitute for washing when your hands are visibly dirty.
Dedicated Clothing: Wear a dedicated pair of coveralls or a barn coat that you only use in the rabbitry. This prevents you from bringing pathogens in on your street clothes. Wash this clothing regularly in hot water.
Dedicated Footwear: Have a dedicated pair of rubber boots for the rabbitry. Do not wear them outside the barn. This is a simple and effective way to prevent tracking in pathogens.
Avoid Cross-Contamination: Do not use the same scoop for feed and manure. Do not use the same brush for a sick rabbit and a healthy rabbit. Color-code your tools: red for quarantine, blue for the main herd, green for feed, and brown for waste.

Common Biosecurity Mistakes

Even experienced rabbit raisers make mistakes. Here are the most common ones.

Thinking "My Rabbits Are Healthy" is a Biosecurity Plan: This is a dangerous assumption. Subclinical carriers exist. It only takes one exposure to a pathogen to cause a devastating outbreak.
Quarantining in the Same Room: Quarantine must be in a separate airspace. If you quarantine a new rabbit in the same room as your main herd, you are exposing your herd to any aerosolized pathogens immediately.
Quarantining Without Testing: Visual observation is not enough. Work with your vet to determine what tests are appropriate for your area. A nasal swab for Pasteurella is a good start.
Using a Dirty Footbath: A footbath is only effective if it is clean and has fresh disinfectant. A footbath full of dirty water is a biohazard.
Sharing Equipment: Never share feeders, water bottles, or grooming tools between rabbits, especially between quarantine and the main herd. If you must share, clean and disinfect them thoroughly between uses.
Ignoring Pest Control: A single mouse can contaminate an entire bag of feed. Flies can spread coccidia from cage to cage. Pest control is not optional.
Failing to Write the Plan Down: If your biosecurity plan is in your head, it is not a plan. It is a vague intention. Write it down, post it in the barn, and review it regularly.
Not Having a "Line of Separation": If you cannot clearly define where the "clean" area of your rabbitry begins, you cannot control what crosses that line.
Using the Wrong Disinfectant: Using a disinfectant that is inactivated by organic matter on a dirty surface is a waste of time and money. Always clean before you disinfect.
Being Complacent: Biosecurity is a daily habit. The day you get lazy is the day you have an outbreak. Consistency is everything.

Monitoring and Recordkeeping: Your Early Warning System

Biosecurity is not just about preventing disease from entering. It is also about detecting disease early if it does enter. Daily monitoring and meticulous recordkeeping are your best tools.

What to Look For: The Daily Health Check

Spend a few minutes each day observing your rabbits. Do not just feed them and leave. Look at each rabbit. Know what is normal for that individual.

Behavior: Is the rabbit active and alert, or is it lethargic and hiding? Is it eating and drinking normally? Is it grinding its teeth (a sign of pain)?
Appetite and Fecal Output: Is the rabbit eating its feed? Are the cecotropes (the soft, nutrient-rich droppings) and hard fecal pellets normal in size and quantity? A decrease in appetite or a change in fecal output is often the first sign of a problem.
Body Condition: Does the rabbit feel too thin or too fat? Run your hands over its back and ribs to check for muscle mass and fat cover.
Eyes and Nose: Are the eyes clear and bright, or are they dull, watery, or crusty? Is there any nasal discharge? Is the rabbit sneezing?
Fur and Skin: Is the coat clean and glossy, or is it rough and dull? Are there any bald patches, flaky skin, or signs of scratching? Check the chin and dewlap for signs of "slobbers" (moist dermatitis).
Respiratory Rate: Is the rabbit breathing normally, or is it breathing rapidly, with an open mouth, or with a wheezing sound?
Reproductive Status (for breeding stock): Is the doe's vulva swollen and pink (in heat)? Is she pulling fur and building a nest (if pregnant)? Are the kits in the nest box warm, full-bellied, and growing?

The Power of Recordkeeping

A simple notebook or a spreadsheet is all you need. Record the following for each rabbit:

Identification: A unique ear tattoo, tag, or cage card number.
Breeding Records: Date bred, buck used, date kindled, number of kits born, number weaned.
Health Records: Any signs of illness, treatments given, dates, and outcomes.
Growth Records: Weights at birth, weaning, and at regular intervals.
Feed and Water Intake: Any changes in appetite or water consumption.

These records are invaluable. They allow you to track the health and productivity of individual animals and your herd as a whole. If you see a pattern, such as a higher-than-normal incidence of respiratory disease in one part of the barn, you can investigate and take corrective action.

Decision Thresholds: When to Act

Your monitoring will generate data. The data will tell you when to act. Here are some thresholds to guide your decisions.

A Single Sick Rabbit: Isolate it immediately. Move it to a hospital cage in a separate area. Do not wait to see if it gets better on its own. Observe it closely and contact your veterinarian if its condition does not improve within 24 hours or if you are concerned.
A Single Death: This is a serious event. Do not just dispose of the body. Contact your veterinarian to discuss a necropsy (animal autopsy) to determine the cause of death. This is the single most valuable diagnostic tool you have.
Multiple Sick Rabbits: This is an outbreak. Immediately quarantine the entire affected group. Do not move rabbits from the affected group to other parts of the barn. Contact your veterinarian immediately.
A Drop in Production: If your does are not conceiving, your litter sizes are small, or your kits are not growing as fast as they should, this is a sign that something is wrong with your herd's overall health or nutrition. Review your records and look for patterns.
A Change in Behavior: If your normally docile herd becomes aggressive, or vice versa, it could be a sign of stress, which can lower immunity and make rabbits more susceptible to disease.

When to Call a Veterinarian or Extension Agent

You are the first line of defense, but you are not alone. There are times when you must call in a professional.

When to Call a Veterinarian

Any Rabbit That is Severely Ill: If a rabbit is not eating, is lethargic, has difficulty breathing, or has severe diarrhea, this is an emergency. Do not wait.
Any Rabbit That Dies Unexpectedly: A necropsy is essential to determine the cause of death and prevent further losses.
A Disease Outbreak: If you have multiple sick rabbits, you need a diagnosis and a treatment plan.
For a Herd Health Consultation: A veterinarian with rabbit experience can help you design a biosecurity plan, choose a vaccination protocol (where applicable), and set up a diagnostic testing schedule.
Before Introducing New Stock: A veterinarian can help you determine what tests are appropriate for the new rabbits and advise you on your quarantine protocol.

When to Call an Extension Agent

For Information and Resources: Your local cooperative extension office has a wealth of information on rabbit husbandry, disease prevention, and farm management.
For Help with a Diagnosis: If you are not sure what is wrong with your rabbits, your extension agent can help you narrow down the possibilities and refer you to a veterinarian.
For Help with a Business Plan: If you are starting a commercial rabbitry, your extension agent can help you with the business and marketing side of things.
For Help with Regulatory Issues: If you are concerned about a reportable disease, your extension agent can help you understand the regulations and reporting requirements.

Reportable Diseases

Some diseases are so serious that there is a legal obligation to report them to the government. In the United States, this is handled by the USDA's Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service (APHIS). If you suspect a foreign animal disease, you must report it immediately. The key rabbit diseases to be aware of are Rabbit Hemorrhagic Disease Virus (RHDV) and Tularemia. RHDV is a highly contagious and often fatal viral disease. Tularemia is a bacterial disease that can be transmitted to humans. Both are reportable. Contact your veterinarian or your state's animal health official immediately if you suspect either of these.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long should I quarantine a new rabbit?

The absolute minimum is 30 days. A 60-day quarantine is safer and is the standard recommended by many experts. The longer period allows you to observe the rabbit for a full incubation period of many common diseases, including Pasteurella. During this time, you should also work with your veterinarian to run diagnostic tests, such as a nasal swab for Pasteurella. A rabbit can appear perfectly healthy and still be a carrier of disease.

Can I just use hand sanitizer instead of washing my hands?

Hand sanitizer is a good backup when you are in a hurry, but it is not a substitute for washing your hands with soap and water. Soap and water physically remove dirt, organic matter, and pathogens. Hand sanitizer is less effective when your hands are visibly dirty. The CDC recommends washing your hands with soap and water as the best way to prevent the spread of germs. Use hand sanitizer only when soap and water are not available.

What is the best disinfectant to use in a rabbitry?

There is no single "best" disinfectant for all situations. The choice depends on what you are trying to kill and the surface you are cleaning. A 1:10 bleach solution is an effective and inexpensive choice for hard, non-porous surfaces after they have been thoroughly cleaned. Accelerated hydrogen peroxide products, like Rescue, are excellent broad-spectrum disinfectants that are safer to use than bleach. Quaternary ammonium compounds are good for general cleaning but may not be effective against all pathogens. The most important rule is to clean the surface thoroughly before applying any disinfectant.

How often should I clean and disinfect my rabbit cages?

The frequency depends on the type of cage and your management style. Wire-bottom cages that allow manure to fall through can be cleaned less often than solid-bottom cages. As a general rule, you should remove soiled bedding and manure daily. A full cleaning and disinfection should be done at least every two weeks, or more often if you have a disease problem. A cage that has housed a sick rabbit must be cleaned and disinfected before it is used for another rabbit.

I have a small rabbitry in my backyard. Do I really need a footbath?

For a small backyard rabbitry, a footbath may be less critical than in a larger commercial operation, but it is still a good practice. The most important thing is to have a clear line of separation and to change your shoes or boots when you enter the rabbitry. A footbath is a useful tool to remind you and others of this boundary. If you use one, it must be cleaned and refilled with fresh disinfectant daily.

My rabbit looks healthy. Why do I need to take it to the vet for a check-up?

This is a common misconception. A visual check is not enough to determine if a rabbit is healthy. Many rabbits are subclinical carriers of pathogens like Pasteurella multocida. They show no signs of illness, but they can shed the bacteria and infect other rabbits, especially when they are stressed. A veterinarian can perform diagnostic tests to screen for these hidden infections. They can also check the rabbit's teeth, which are a common source of problems, and advise you on proper nutrition and husbandry.

How can I prevent disease from spreading at a rabbit show?

Rabbit shows are a high-risk environment for disease transmission. To minimize your risk, you should:

Do not take a rabbit to a show if it is not in perfect health.
Keep your rabbit in its own carrier and do not let it come into contact with other rabbits.
Do not share equipment like water bottles, feeders, or grooming tools.
Wash your hands or use hand sanitizer after handling your rabbit and before handling other items.
When you get home, quarantine your show rabbit for at least 30 days before reintroducing it to your main herd.

What is Rabbit Hemorrhagic Disease Virus (RHDV) and should I be worried?

RHDV is a highly contagious and often fatal viral disease of rabbits. It is a reportable disease, meaning that any suspicion of the disease must be reported to the authorities. There are two main types, RHDV1 and RHDV2. RHDV2 is the more recent strain and has spread widely. It is resistant to many common disinfectants and can survive in the environment for a long time. There are vaccines available for RHDV2 in some countries. You should talk to your veterinarian about whether vaccination is recommended for your area. Biosecurity is your primary defense. Do not allow visitors, quarantine new stock, and control pests.

Related Farming Guides

Rabbit Disease Prevention and Biosecurity Planning

This section will be populated with links to other relevant farming guides from this website. Check back soon for more resources on rabbit health, housing, breeding, and nutrition.

Related Clinical & Scientific Guides

References

FAO Rabbit Production: https://www.fao.org/animal-production/en/
USDA APHIS Rabbit Health: https://www.aphis.usda.gov/livestock-poultry-disease
FAO Animal Production and Health: https://www.fao.org/animal-production/en/
WOAH (World Organisation for Animal Health): https://www.woah.org/en/home/

This article is educational and is not a substitute for veterinary diagnosis, treatment, public-health guidance, or regulatory reporting.