Goat Feed Storage and Preservation: Preventing Mold and Nutrient Loss
By Dr. Zubair Khalid, DVM, MS, PhD ·

Key Takeaways
- Moisture is the primary driver of feed spoilage: Hay should be stored below 15% moisture and grain below 13% to inhibit mold growth and mycotoxin production. Elevated moisture levels (>15% in hay, >13% in grain) facilitate fungal spore germination and proliferation, leading to nutrient degradation and potential health hazards.
- Environmental control is critical for nutrient preservation: Cool, dry storage conditions (ideally below 75°F) significantly slow the rate of nutrient breakdown, particularly for vitamins like carotene (Vitamin A) and Vitamin E, which are heat-sensitive. Each 10°F increase in temperature can roughly double the rate of nutrient degradation.
- Oxygen exposure accelerates rancidity and vitamin loss: Fats in processed grains and pelleted feeds are susceptible to oxidation, leading to rancidity and the destruction of fat-soluble vitamins. Whole grains offer greater protection due to their intact seed coat, but processed grains should be consumed within 4-6 weeks.
- Pest contamination poses significant health risks: Rodents, insects, and birds not only consume feed but also contaminate it with urine, feces, and pathogens. Leptospirosis, carried in rodent urine, is a particular concern, capable of causing abortion and kidney damage in goats.
- Visible mold is a late indicator of mycotoxin risk: By the time mold is visually apparent (gray, white, green, or black patches), significant nutrient loss has occurred, and mycotoxins may be present. These toxins persist even after mold removal and can cause reproductive failure, immune suppression, and organ damage.
- Rotation and inspection are paramount for feed quality management: Implementing a "first-in, first-out" (FIFO) system for feed inventory and conducting regular visual, olfactory, and tactile inspections can detect early signs of spoilage, pest infestation, or moisture ingress, preventing costly losses and potential animal illness.
Proper goat feed storage is one of the most overlooked aspects of herd management, yet it directly affects animal health, production, and your bottom line. This guide covers the full scope of keeping hay, grain, and supplements free from mold, pests, and nutrient degradation. It is written for small and mid-sized goat keepers, including homesteaders, dairy operators, and meat producers who want practical, field-tested methods for preserving feed quality from harvest or purchase to the feeder.
At a Glance
- Moisture is the enemy. Keep hay below 15 percent moisture and grain below 13 percent moisture to prevent mold growth.
- Airflow prevents condensation. Stack hay off the ground with pallets and leave space between bales for air movement.
- Grain needs sealed, pest-proof containers. Use metal or heavy-duty plastic bins with tight-fitting lids, not open bags.
- Rotation is critical. Use the oldest feed first and never mix new feed on top of old feed.
- Temperature matters. Store feed in a cool, dry place. Heat accelerates nutrient breakdown and encourages mold.
- Inspect everything before feeding. Visual checks, smell tests, and regular sampling catch problems early.
- When in doubt, throw it out. Feeding moldy feed to goats can cause illness, abortion, or death.
- Keep records. Track purchase dates, storage conditions, and feed quality observations to spot problems before they become costly.
Understanding Feed Deterioration
Feed quality begins to decline the moment it is harvested or milled. The rate of decline depends on moisture, temperature, oxygen exposure, and pest pressure. Understanding these four factors gives you the foundation for every storage decision you make.
Moisture and Mold Growth
Mold requires moisture to grow. Most feed molds become active when moisture content rises above 15 percent in hay and 13 percent in grain. At these levels, fungal spores that are always present on plant material begin to germinate and multiply.
The visible signs of mold are often the last indicator of a problem. By the time you see gray, white, green, or black patches on hay or grain, the mold has already consumed significant nutrients and may have produced mycotoxins. These toxic compounds can persist even after the visible mold is removed, so you cannot simply pick off the bad spots and feed the rest.
Mold growth also generates heat. A bale of hay that is too wet can heat internally, creating conditions that destroy protein and reduce digestibility. In extreme cases, spontaneous combustion can occur in hay stored with moisture above 25 percent.
Temperature Effects on Nutrients
Heat accelerates chemical reactions that break down vitamins and proteins. Carotene, which goats convert to vitamin A, is especially sensitive to heat and degrades rapidly in poorly stored hay. The same applies to vitamin E and several B vitamins.
Grain stored in a hot barn or shed loses nutritional value faster than grain kept cool. Each 10 degree Fahrenheit increase in storage temperature roughly doubles the rate of nutrient degradation. This means a bag of grain left in a summer-hot shed for two months loses significantly more nutritional value than the same grain stored in a cool basement or climate-controlled room.
Oxygen and Oxidation
Oxygen causes fats to oxidize, which produces rancidity and destroys fat-soluble vitamins. This is particularly relevant for pelleted feeds that contain added fats and for grain that has been cracked or rolled. Whole grains have a natural protective seed coat, but processing removes that barrier and exposes the interior to oxygen.
Oxidation also affects the palatability of feed. Goats can detect rancid fats, and they will reduce intake or refuse feed altogether. A goat that eats less loses condition, produces less milk, and becomes more susceptible to health problems.
Pest Infestation
Rodents, insects, and birds do more than eat your feed. They contaminate it with droppings, urine, and pathogens that can cause disease in goats. Rodent urine is a particular concern because it can carry leptospirosis, a bacterial disease that causes fever, kidney damage, and abortion in goats.
Common grain pests include grain weevils, flour beetles, and Indian meal moths. These insects can multiply rapidly in warm conditions and can ruin an entire bin of grain in a matter of weeks. Hay can harbor field mice, voles, and various beetles that degrade quality and introduce contamination.
Goat Hay Storage
Hay is the backbone of most goat diets, especially during winter months when pasture is unavailable. Protecting your hay investment requires attention to the harvest, the storage site, and the stacking method.
Harvest Moisture and Curing
Hay quality is determined at harvest. Hay baled too wet will mold regardless of how well you store it. Hay baled too dry loses leaves, which are the most nutritious part of the plant. The ideal moisture range for baled hay depends on bale type:
- Small square bales: 14 to 18 percent moisture
- Large round bales: 15 to 18 percent moisture
- Large square bales: 14 to 16 percent moisture
If you purchase hay from a supplier, ask about the moisture content at baling. If you bale your own hay, use a moisture meter to test several bales from each field before you commit to storage. A hay moisture meter costs between $50 and $150 and pays for itself in prevented losses.
Hay that is baled at the right moisture but stored improperly can still absorb moisture from the ground or from humid air. The storage environment is just as important as the harvest conditions.
Choosing a Hay Storage Site
The ideal hay storage site has three characteristics: it is dry, it is well-drained, and it has good airflow.
A dedicated hay barn is the best option, but not every goat keeper has that luxury. If you store hay outdoors, you need a well-drained site that does not collect water. Gravel pads work well because they allow water to drain away from the bales. Avoid low spots where water pools after rain.
The ground under your hay should never be bare soil. Soil wicks moisture upward into the bales and provides a pathway for pests. Use pallets, old tires, or a layer of crushed rock to keep hay off the ground. The minimum clearance should be 4 to 6 inches, but 8 to 12 inches is better in areas with heavy rainfall.
Stacking Methods for Small Square Bales
Small square bales are the most common format for goat keepers who buy hay in quantities of 50 to 200 bales per year. Proper stacking preserves quality and makes rotation easier.
Start with a clean, dry floor. Lay down a vapor barrier such as heavy plastic sheeting if your storage area has a concrete floor that might wick moisture. Then place pallets to create airflow under the first layer of bales.
Stack bales in a staggered pattern, similar to brickwork, so that the joints between bales in one layer do not align with the joints in the layer below. This creates a more stable stack and allows air to move between bales.
Leave a gap of at least 6 inches between the stack and any wall. This air space prevents condensation from forming where humid air meets a cool wall. It also gives you room to inspect the back of the stack for signs of moisture or pests.
Do not stack small square bales more than 6 to 8 high. Higher stacks are difficult to manage safely, and the weight of the upper bales compresses the lower bales, which reduces airflow and can trap moisture.
Storing Round Bales
Round bales present different challenges because of their size and weight. The outside surface is exposed to weather, and the dense center can retain moisture if the bale was baled too wet.
If you store round bales outdoors, arrange them in rows with the flat ends touching and the curved surfaces exposed. This reduces the surface area exposed to rain and allows water to run off the top. Leave a gap of 2 to 3 feet between rows for airflow and for equipment access.
A tarp can protect round bales from rain, but tarps trap moisture if they are not installed correctly. The tarp should be pitched so water runs off completely, and it should be secured against wind. Check tarps regularly for tears and for condensation underneath.
The best option for round bales is a three-sided shed with an open front. This protects the bales from rain and snow while allowing air to circulate. Orient the open side away from prevailing winds to keep blowing rain out of the structure.
Hay Storage Mistakes to Avoid
The most common hay storage mistakes are easy to prevent once you know what to look for.
Storing hay directly on the ground is the fastest way to ruin the bottom layer. Ground contact introduces soil moisture, soil-borne molds, and pests. The bottom bales become a breeding ground for Clostridium bacteria, which can cause fatal disease in goats that eat contaminated hay.
Stacking hay against a metal wall or in a tightly sealed building can cause condensation problems. When warm humid air meets a cold surface, water forms. This water drips onto the hay and creates localized wet spots where mold thrives.
Covering hay with a tarp that touches the bales directly can also trap moisture. If you must use a tarp, create a ridge pole or use spacers so the tarp does not lie flat against the hay. This allows air to move between the tarp and the bales.
Forgetting about the oldest hay is another common mistake. Hay that sits for more than a year loses significant nutritional value, especially protein and vitamin content. Always feed the oldest hay first and rotate your inventory.
Goat Grain Storage
Grain and pelleted feeds require different storage strategies than hay because they are more concentrated, more susceptible to pests, and more sensitive to moisture.
Choosing the Right Container
The container you use for grain storage determines how well the feed survives. Open bags, cardboard boxes, and plastic grocery bags are not acceptable storage containers for goat grain.
The best options are:
- Metal trash cans with tight-fitting lids
- Heavy-duty plastic bins designed for feed storage
- Food-grade plastic barrels with sealed lids
- Commercial feed bins made of galvanized steel or food-grade plastic
Whatever container you choose, it must have a lid that seals completely. A lid that does not seal allows moisture, insects, and rodents to enter. Test the seal by closing the lid and turning the container upside down. If any grain leaks out, the seal is not good enough.
The container should be sized so that you can use the contents within 4 to 6 weeks. A 50 pound bag of grain that takes you three months to use is going to lose quality no matter how well you store it. Buy grain in quantities that match your feeding rate.
Positioning and Placement
Grain containers belong in a cool, dry, well-ventilated area. A garage, shed, or utility room that stays below 75 degrees Fahrenheit is ideal. Avoid storing grain in direct sunlight, which heats the container and accelerates nutrient loss.
Elevate containers off the floor. A simple shelf or a couple of pallets keeps containers away from floor moisture and makes it harder for rodents to access. Leave space between containers and walls so air can circulate and so you can inspect for signs of pests.
Never store grain containers next to chemicals, fuels, or cleaning products. Grain absorbs odors, and contaminated grain can make goats sick. Keep a dedicated feed storage area separate from other farm supplies.
Managing Moisture in Grain
Grain stored in a humid environment can absorb moisture even in a sealed container. This happens when the container is opened frequently, allowing humid air to enter. The moisture then condenses on the grain surface when temperatures drop.
To minimize this problem, open grain containers only when you need to remove feed, and close the lid immediately after. Do not leave the lid open while you fill buckets or mix rations. In very humid climates, consider adding silica gel packets or a commercial desiccant to the container.
Do not store grain in a refrigerator or freezer unless you are storing small quantities for a short period. The condensation that forms when cold grain warms up can introduce more moisture than the cold storage saved.
Pest Prevention for Grain
Preventing pests in grain is much easier than eliminating them once they are established. Start with clean containers. Wash and dry containers thoroughly before adding new grain. Scrape out any old feed that clings to the bottom or sides.
Inspect grain before you bring it into your storage area. Check the bag for holes, webbing, or live insects. If you see signs of infestation, reject the delivery or isolate the grain until you can determine the extent of the problem.
Bay leaves and diatomaceous earth are sometimes recommended as natural pest deterrents. Food-grade diatomaceous earth can be mixed into grain at a rate of about 1 to 2 percent by weight to control insects. Bay leaves may help repel some insects but are not reliably effective. For serious infestations, you may need to discard the grain and treat the storage area.
Bulk Grain Storage
Goat keepers who go through more than 200 pounds of grain per month may consider bulk storage in a dedicated bin. Bulk bins come in sizes from 100 pounds to several tons and can be filled directly from a feed delivery truck.
Bulk bins require the same moisture and pest management as smaller containers, but the scale changes the math. A contaminated bulk bin can ruin hundreds of dollars worth of feed. Clean and inspect bulk bins between loads, and never add new grain to old grain in a bulk bin.
Preventing Mold in Feed
Mold prevention is the single most important aspect of feed storage because mold affects both feed quality and animal health. A comprehensive mold prevention program addresses moisture, temperature, airflow, and inspection.
Understanding Mycotoxins
Mycotoxins are toxic compounds produced by certain molds. They are invisible, tasteless, and odorless, which makes them especially dangerous. Even feed that looks and smells fine can contain dangerous levels of mycotoxins.
Common mycotoxins in goat feed include:
- Aflatoxins, produced by Aspergillus molds, which damage the liver
- Ochratoxin, produced by Penicillium and Aspergillus molds, which damages the kidneys
- Fumonisins, produced by Fusarium molds, which affect the nervous system
- T-2 toxin, produced by Fusarium molds, which causes oral lesions and digestive upset
The effects of mycotoxins in goats range from reduced feed intake and poor growth to immune suppression, reproductive failure, and death. Pregnant does are especially vulnerable because some mycotoxins cause abortion or birth defects.
You cannot tell by looking at feed whether it contains mycotoxins. Laboratory testing is the only reliable way to detect them. If you suspect mycotoxin contamination, contact your state veterinary diagnostic laboratory or a commercial feed testing service.
Mold Inhibitors
Commercial mold inhibitors are available for both hay and grain. These products contain organic acids such as propionic acid, which prevents mold growth by lowering the pH of the feed.
Mold inhibitors are most useful for high-moisture feeds and for feeds that will be stored for extended periods. They are not a substitute for good storage practices. A mold inhibitor cannot fix feed that is stored wet or in contaminated conditions.
If you use a mold inhibitor, follow the label directions exactly. Overdosing can make feed unpalatable, and underdosing gives a false sense of security. Keep treated feed separate from untreated feed and label containers clearly.
Natural Mold Prevention
Several management practices reduce mold risk without chemical additives.
Harvest hay at the correct moisture and avoid baling in humid conditions. Hay that goes into the bale at 18 percent moisture will stay below the mold threshold if stored properly, but hay baled at 22 percent moisture will mold even in the best storage.
Cool grain after milling or purchase before sealing it in a container. Warm grain creates condensation inside a sealed container, which promotes mold growth. Allow grain to cool to ambient temperature before closing the lid.
Keep storage areas clean. Sweep up spilled feed, remove old hay from around the storage area, and keep weeds and grass trimmed around outdoor storage. Spilled feed attracts pests and provides a reservoir for mold spores.
Recognizing Moldy Feed
Learn to recognize the signs of mold so you can catch problems early.
Visible mold appears as white, gray, green, black, or pink patches on hay or grain. It may look like dust, fuzz, or webbing. Some molds produce a musty or sour odor. Hay that smells musty is almost certainly moldy, even if you cannot see the mold.
Grain that is moldy may have a dusty appearance, clump together, or have a sour smell. It may also have a darker color than normal. If you see any of these signs, do not feed the grain to your goats.
Heat is another indicator. A bale of hay or a bin of grain that is warm to the touch is actively heating, which means microbial growth is occurring. This feed is deteriorating rapidly and should be removed from storage.
Nutrient Loss During Storage
Even perfectly stored feed loses nutrients over time. Understanding the rate and pattern of nutrient loss helps you plan your purchasing and feeding schedule.
Hay Nutrient Degradation
Hay loses nutrients from the moment it is cut. The curing process itself can reduce protein content by 5 to 10 percent if leaves are lost or if rain leaches soluble nutrients. Once hay is baled and stored, the rate of nutrient loss depends on storage conditions.
Well-stored hay loses approximately 5 to 10 percent of its dry matter over 6 months of storage. Poorly stored hay can lose 30 percent or more. The most significant losses are in protein, carotene, and other vitamins.
The leaves of legume hays like alfalfa contain the highest concentration of protein and minerals. Leaf loss during handling and storage reduces quality dramatically. Handle hay gently and minimize the number of times you move it.
Grain Nutrient Degradation
Whole grains retain their nutritional quality longer than processed grains because the seed coat protects the interior from oxygen and moisture. Whole corn can be stored for a year or more with minimal nutrient loss under good conditions.
Cracked, rolled, or ground grains lose quality much faster. The exposed surface area allows oxygen to penetrate and moisture to enter. Processed grains should be used within 4 to 6 weeks of processing for best quality.
Pelleted feeds have their own storage considerations. The heat used during pelleting destroys some vitamins, and the added fats in pellets are prone to oxidation. Store pellets in a cool place and use them within 3 months of manufacture.
Vitamin and Mineral Stability
Vitamins are the most fragile components of feed. Vitamin A and vitamin E degrade rapidly during storage, especially in the presence of heat, light, and oxygen. Vitamin C and most B vitamins are also unstable.
Minerals are more stable than vitamins, but they can be affected by moisture. Some mineral supplements absorb moisture from the air and form clumps. This does not reduce the mineral content, but it can make the feed unpalatable and difficult to mix.
If you feed a complete ration that includes vitamins and minerals, pay attention to the manufacture date on the bag. Older feed may look fine but have significantly reduced vitamin content. This is why rotation and freshness are so important.
Testing Feed Quality
If you want to know exactly what your feed contains, submit samples to a feed testing laboratory. Hay testing costs between $20 and $50 per sample and provides information on protein, fiber, energy, and mineral content. This information helps you balance rations and identify quality problems.
For hay testing, use a hay probe to take cores from multiple bales. Combine the cores into one sample and submit it according to the laboratory instructions. Test each cutting or field separately, because quality can vary significantly between batches.
For grain and pelleted feeds, request a nutrient analysis from your feed supplier. Reputable feed companies provide guaranteed analysis on their products and can supply more detailed information on request.
Common Feed Storage Mistakes
Learning from mistakes is part of farming, but some mistakes are so costly that they are worth avoiding entirely. Here are the most common feed storage errors and how to prevent them.
Buying Too Much Feed
Buying feed in bulk saves money per pound, but it only saves money if you can use the feed before it deteriorates. A 50 percent savings on a ton of grain is not a bargain if half of it molds before you feed it.
Calculate your actual feed usage before making bulk purchases. If you feed 10 pounds of grain per day, a ton of grain will last about 200 days. That is too long for processed grain, which should be used within 6 weeks. It is also marginal for whole grain, which can be stored for up to a year under ideal conditions.
Storing Feed in the Barn with the Goats
Many goat keepers store feed in the barn for convenience, but this creates several problems. The moisture and ammonia from animal waste can contaminate feed. Rodents are attracted to the barn because of the feed. And goats that can reach the feed will overeat and may founder.
Store feed in a separate area away from the animals. If you must store feed in the barn, use sealed containers and keep them in a room that goats cannot access. Never leave feed bags open or accessible.
Ignoring the Oldest Feed
Feed that sits in the back of the storage area while you use the newer feed will eventually go bad. This is a common problem with hay, where the stack at the back may be forgotten for months.
Implement a rotation system. When you add new feed, move the old feed to the front or top. Use a marker to write the purchase date on each bag or bale. Use the oldest feed first, and never mix old feed with new feed.
Not Inspecting Feed Regularly
Feed problems are easier to fix when they are caught early. A weekly inspection of your feed storage area takes 10 minutes and can save you hundreds of dollars.
Check for signs of moisture, mold, pests, and damage to containers. Look for rodent droppings, gnaw marks, and insect activity. Smell the feed to detect musty or sour odors. Feel the feed to check for unusual warmth or dampness.
Overlooking Small Leaks
A small hole in a grain container or a tear in a hay tarp may seem minor, but it can ruin the entire batch. A leak in a grain bin lets in moisture and pests. A tear in a tarp lets water run down the side of a haystack.
Inspect containers and covers regularly and repair damage immediately. Duct tape can temporarily patch a small tear, but replace damaged containers and tarps as soon as possible.
Feed Storage Facilities
The structure you use for feed storage has a major impact on feed quality. You do not need an expensive purpose-built facility, but you do need a space that meets the basic requirements of dryness, ventilation, and pest exclusion.
Designing a Feed Storage Area
A good feed storage area has a solid floor, a weatherproof roof, and adequate ventilation. The floor should be concrete or compacted gravel that drains well. Dirt floors wick moisture and harbor pests.
Ventilation is essential for controlling humidity and preventing condensation. Ridge vents, gable vents, or open eaves allow warm moist air to escape. A completely sealed building traps moisture and promotes mold growth.
The storage area should have good lighting so you can inspect feed easily. Natural light through windows or skylights is fine, but make sure the windows are screened to keep out birds and insects.
Converting an Existing Building
Many goat keepers convert an existing shed, garage, or outbuilding for feed storage. This can work well with some modifications.
Seal gaps around doors and windows to keep out rodents. Install weather stripping on doors and repair any holes in walls or floors. A rodent-proof building requires that all openings larger than a quarter inch be sealed.
Add shelving or pallets to keep feed off the floor. Install a dehumidifier if the space is damp. Add ventilation if the space is stuffy or if condensation forms on walls and windows.
Outdoor Storage Options
If you do not have an indoor storage space, you can still protect feed with the right outdoor setup.
Hay can be stored outdoors on a gravel pad with a tarp or in a round bale feeder that keeps hay off the ground. The key is to keep the hay off the soil and to provide a waterproof cover that still allows airflow.
Grain should never be stored outdoors unless it is in a sealed, weatherproof container. A metal or heavy-duty plastic bin with a gasketed lid can survive outdoor conditions, but check it regularly for condensation and pest entry.
Climate Considerations
Your local climate should influence your storage design. In humid climates, ventilation and moisture control are the top priorities. In cold climates, protecting feed from freezing and condensation is important. In hot climates, keeping feed cool is the main challenge.
In very humid areas, consider using a dehumidifier in the feed storage area. In very hot areas, insulate the storage building or store feed in the coolest part of the property. In very cold areas, allow for air circulation to prevent condensation when warm air meets cold surfaces.
Monitoring and Recordkeeping
Regular monitoring and good records help you catch feed problems early and make better purchasing decisions.
Weekly Feed Inspections
Set aside time each week to inspect your feed storage. Walk through the hay storage area and check for signs of moisture, mold, or pests. Open grain containers and check the surface for insects, moisture, or off-odors.
Use all your senses during inspections. Look for discoloration, webbing, or pest droppings. Smell for musty, sour, or rancid odors. Feel for unusual warmth or dampness. Listen for the rustling sounds of insects in grain containers.
If you find a problem, isolate the affected feed and determine the cause. Fix the cause before adding new feed to the area.
Recordkeeping Systems
Keep simple records of your feed purchases and storage. For each batch of hay or grain, record:
- Purchase date
- Source or supplier
- Quantity
- Type and quality
- Storage location
- Any problems observed
This information helps you identify patterns. If hay from a particular supplier consistently molds, you know to change suppliers. If grain stored in a particular location always goes bad, you know to fix that location.
A simple notebook or spreadsheet is sufficient. The goal is to have a record you can review when making decisions, not to create paperwork for its own sake.
Sampling and Testing
Regular sampling helps you verify feed quality and detect problems before they affect your goats.
Test hay for moisture when you receive it and again after several months of storage. A moisture meter gives quick results and helps you identify bales that are at risk.
Submit samples to a feed testing laboratory if you notice quality changes or if you want to verify nutritional content. Test new batches of hay before feeding them to pregnant or lactating does, since these animals have the highest nutritional requirements.
Signs of Feed-Related Health Problems
Feed storage problems often show up first as health problems in your goats. Watch for these signs:
- Reduced feed intake or picky eating
- Weight loss despite adequate feed
- Reduced milk production
- Diarrhea or digestive upset
- Abortions or reproductive problems
- Lethargy or depression
- Poor coat condition
If you see these signs and your feed is suspect, stop feeding the suspect feed immediately and consult your veterinarian.
When to Call a Veterinarian or Extension Agent
Most feed storage problems are management issues that you can solve yourself. But some situations require professional help.
Veterinary Emergencies
Call your veterinarian immediately if you suspect your goats have eaten moldy feed and show signs of illness. Mycotoxin poisoning can be fatal, and early treatment improves the chances of recovery.
Signs that warrant an immediate veterinary call include:
- Sudden death of one or more goats
- Severe diarrhea or bloody stool
- Abortions, especially multiple abortions in a short period
- Neurological signs such as tremors, staggering, or seizures
- Refusal to eat or drink for more than 24 hours
- High fever or obvious pain
Your veterinarian can run tests to identify mycotoxins and provide supportive care. They can also help you determine whether the feed is the cause of the problem.
Extension Agent Consultations
Your local cooperative extension agent is a valuable resource for feed storage questions. Extension agents can help with:
- Hay testing and interpretation of results
- Ration balancing and feed budgeting
- Mold identification and management
- Pest control recommendations
- Facility design and improvement
Extension offices often offer workshops and publications on feed storage and preservation. Many also provide soil testing and forage testing services that help you understand the quality of the feed you produce.
Feed Testing Laboratories
If you suspect mycotoxin contamination, contact a feed testing laboratory. Your state veterinary diagnostic laboratory can test for common mycotoxins, and commercial laboratories offer comprehensive feed analysis.
When submitting samples, follow the laboratory instructions carefully. Take samples from multiple locations in the affected feed and combine them into one composite sample. Label the sample with the feed type, source, and date. Include a description of the problem you are investigating.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long can I store goat hay before it loses too much nutritional value?
Well-stored hay retains acceptable nutritional value for 12 to 18 months, but quality declines steadily from the day it is baled. Protein content can drop by 5 to 10 percent in the first 6 months, and vitamin content declines even faster. Hay stored for more than 12 months should be tested before feeding, especially to pregnant or lactating does. The practical approach is to buy only as much hay as you will use in one feeding season, which is typically 6 to 9 months depending on your climate and herd size.
Can goats eat hay that has some mold on it?
You should not feed moldy hay to goats. Even if you remove the visible mold, the mold may have produced mycotoxins that are invisible and odorless. These toxins can cause reduced feed intake, digestive upset, liver and kidney damage, abortions, and death. The cost of replacing the hay is almost always less than the cost of treating sick goats or losing animals. If only part of a bale is moldy, it is safer to discard the entire bale than to risk feeding contaminated hay.
What is the best container for storing goat grain?
The best containers are metal trash cans or heavy-duty plastic bins with tight-fitting lids. These containers are rodent-proof, moisture-resistant, and easy to clean. Avoid cardboard boxes, paper bags, and open plastic containers, which allow moisture and pests to enter. Whatever container you choose, elevate it off the floor and keep it in a cool, dry area. Size the container so you use the grain within 4 to 6 weeks.
How do I keep rodents out of my goat feed?
Rodent prevention starts with excluding them from the storage area. Seal all openings larger than a quarter inch in walls, floors, and doors. Store feed in rodent-proof containers with tight lids. Keep the area around the storage building clean, and remove any brush, woodpiles, or debris that provide rodent shelter. If you have an active rodent problem, use traps or bait stations placed safely away from goats and other livestock. Rodent bait is toxic to goats, so place bait where goats cannot access it.
Does freezing kill mold in goat feed?
Freezing stops mold growth, but it does not kill all mold spores, and it does not destroy mycotoxins that are already present. When frozen feed thaws, mold can resume growing if moisture is present. Freezing also causes condensation when the feed warms up, which can introduce moisture and actually increase mold risk. Freezing is not a practical or effective method for preserving goat feed. Proper drying and moisture control are the only reliable ways to prevent mold.
How can I tell if my grain has mycotoxins?
You cannot detect mycotoxins by sight, smell, or taste. The only reliable way to detect mycotoxins is laboratory testing. If you suspect mycotoxin contamination, contact your state veterinary diagnostic laboratory or a commercial feed testing laboratory. They can test for common mycotoxins such as aflatoxins, ochratoxin, and fumonisins. Testing costs vary but are typically between $50 and $150 per sample. This is a small price compared to the cost of sick or dead goats.
Should I mix new grain with old grain to use it up?
No. Mixing new grain with old grain contaminates the new grain and makes it difficult to track quality. If the old grain has any mold or pest contamination, mixing spreads the problem to the new grain. Instead, use the old grain completely before opening new grain. Clean the container thoroughly between batches. If the old grain shows any signs of spoilage, discard it rather than trying to use it up.
What moisture level is safe for storing goat hay?
Hay should be baled and stored at 15 percent moisture or less for small square bales, and at 18 percent or less for large round bales. Hay stored at higher moisture levels is at risk for mold growth and spontaneous combustion. If you have hay that tests above these levels, dry it further before storage or use it quickly before mold develops. A hay moisture meter is an inexpensive tool that helps you verify moisture content before committing hay to storage.
Related Farming Guides
This section will be populated with links to related farming guides for goat management, hay production, and livestock feed preservation.
Related Clinical & Scientific Guides
- Goat Breeding Season Planning: Timing, Nutrition, and Health Checks
- Alfalfa Hay for Goats: Feeding Decisions and Mineral Context
- Goat Fiber Production: Cashmere and Mohair Management
References
- American Consortium for Small Ruminant Parasite Control (ACSRPC): https://www.wormx.info/
- USDA APHIS Goat Health: https://www.aphis.usda.gov/livestock-poultry-disease/sheep-goats
- FAO Sheep and Goat Production: https://www.fao.org/animal-production/en/
- FAO Animal Production and Health: https://www.fao.org/animal-production/en/
- WOAH (World Organisation for Animal Health): https://www.woah.org/en/home/
This article is educational and is not a substitute for veterinary diagnosis, treatment, public-health guidance, or regulatory reporting.