Incubation and Hatching of Poultry Eggs: Temperature, Humidity, and Turning

By Dr. Zubair Khalid, DVM, MS, PhD · 2026-08-14

Key Takeaways

• Temperature Precision is Paramount: Maintaining a stable temperature within a narrow range is the most critical factor for successful embryo development. For forced-air incubators, target 99.5°F (37.5°C) at egg level; for still-air incubators, 101.5°F (38.6°C) at the top of the eggs is recommended. Deviations can lead to developmental abnormalities or mortality.
• Humidity Dictates Moisture Exchange: Relative humidity levels of 45-55% during incubation and 60-70% during hatch are crucial for proper egg weight loss (13-15% total). Insufficient humidity results in chicks sticking to the shell, while excessive humidity can lead to drowning. Weighing eggs periodically offers the most accurate assessment of moisture loss.
• Consistent Turning Prevents Adhesion: Regular egg turning, a minimum of 3-5 times daily, for the first 18 days of incubation prevents the embryo from adhering to the shell membrane and promotes the development of extra-embryonic membranes. Turning should cease at lockdown to allow the chick to position for hatching.
• Candling Identifies Non-Viable Embryos: Periodic candling (days 7 and 14 for chickens) using a bright light source is essential for identifying infertile eggs and embryos that have died. Removing these eggs mitigates the risk of contamination and frees up incubator space.
• Lockdown Requires Stable, High Humidity: The final three days of incubation (lockdown) necessitate stopping egg turning and increasing humidity to 60-70%. This elevated humidity prevents the chick from drying out and facilitates a successful emergence from the shell.
• Egg Quality and Storage Impact Hatchability: Utilizing fresh, high-quality eggs from healthy breeding stock, stored correctly (55-60°F, 70-75% RH, pointed end down, turned daily) for no more than 7-10 days, significantly improves hatch rates. Washing eggs should be avoided as it removes the protective bloom.

Successfully hatching poultry eggs requires careful control of three main factors: temperature, humidity, and egg turning. Each of these elements plays a distinct role in embryo development, and getting any one of them wrong can reduce your hatch rate or cause chicks to hatch weak or deformed. This guide covers the complete incubation process for chicken eggs, with practical guidance that also applies to ducks, geese, turkeys, and other poultry. It is written for small farm operators, homesteaders, and commercial producers who want to improve their hatch rates and raise healthier flocks.

Whether you are setting your first batch of eggs or troubleshooting a recurring hatch problem, this article walks you through the science of incubation, the equipment you need, step by step procedures, and the most common mistakes to avoid. You will also learn how to monitor embryo development, keep accurate records, and know when to seek professional help.

At a Glance

Understanding Poultry Egg Incubation

Incubation is the process of maintaining conditions that allow a fertilized egg to develop into a chick. In nature, a broody hen provides these conditions by sitting on her eggs, turning them regularly, and regulating temperature and moisture through her body and feathers. Artificial incubation replicates these conditions using equipment that controls heat, humidity, air exchange, and egg position.

The embryo develops through a series of distinct stages over the incubation period. During the first few days, the fertilized egg begins cell division and the formation of major organ systems. By day 7, the embryo has a beating heart and visible blood vessels. By day 14, the embryo is fully formed and begins positioning itself for hatch. The final three days are spent absorbing the yolk sac and moving into the air cell at the blunt end of the egg.

Temperature is the single most critical factor in incubation. The embryo develops properly only within a narrow temperature range. If the temperature drops too low, development slows or stops. If it climbs too high, the embryo may develop too quickly and die or hatch with deformities. Humidity controls how much moisture is lost from the egg during incubation. The egg must lose about 13 to 15 percent of its starting weight by the time the chick pips the shell. This weight loss happens through evaporation, and the rate of evaporation depends on the relative humidity in the incubator.

Egg turning prevents the embryo from sticking to the shell membrane and ensures that the embryo develops in the correct position. In nature, a broody hen turns her eggs many times each day. Artificial incubators must replicate this movement, either through automatic turners or by hand turning.

Equipment for Successful Incubation

Your incubator is the most important piece of equipment you will buy. The two main types are still air and forced air incubators. Still air incubators have no fan, so the temperature varies significantly from top to bottom. The warm air rises, making the top of the incubator warmer than the bottom. For still air incubators, set the temperature to 101.5°F (38.6°C) measured at the top of the eggs. Forced air incubators have a fan that circulates air evenly throughout the unit, so temperature differences are minimal. Set forced air incubators to 99.5°F (37.5°C) measured at egg level.

Choose an incubator sized for your operation. As a general rule, hatch rates improve when you run the incubator at 50 to 75 percent of its rated capacity. An incubator that is too crowded has poor air circulation and makes it difficult to maintain stable temperature and humidity. An incubator that is nearly empty may struggle to maintain humidity because there is not enough egg surface area to generate moisture through evaporation.

You also need a reliable thermometer and hygrometer. Do not rely on the built in gauges that come with many incubators, as these are often inaccurate. Buy a digital thermometer with a probe that you can place at egg level. A digital hygrometer measures relative humidity. Calibrate both devices before each hatch by placing them together in a sealed container with a small amount of water and comparing readings after 24 hours.

An egg candler is essential for monitoring embryo development. You can purchase a commercial candler or make one from a bright flashlight and a cardboard tube. The candler should be bright enough to illuminate the inside of an egg without generating excessive heat.

For hand turning, mark each egg with a soft pencil on one side. Use an X on one side and an O on the other, or number each egg. This allows you to confirm that every egg has been turned and to keep track of each egg's position.

Selecting and Storing Eggs Before Incubation

The quality of your hatch begins long before you place eggs in the incubator. Only eggs from healthy, well nourished breeding stock should be used for incubation. Hens should be receiving a complete layer ration and should not be overly fat or too thin. Roosters should be active and fertile. For chickens, one rooster can service 8 to 12 hens. If you keep multiple roosters, they may fight, which reduces fertility.

Collect eggs at least twice daily and preferably three to four times per day during hot weather or cold weather. Eggs that sit in the nest can become dirty, over heated, or chilled. Do not wash eggs unless absolutely necessary. Washing removes the protective bloom, a natural coating that seals the pores of the shell and prevents bacteria from entering. If you must clean an egg, use a dry abrasive pad or fine sandpaper to gently buff off dirt. Only wash eggs with warm water and a sanitizer designed for eggs if they are heavily soiled, and use the eggs immediately after washing.

Store hatching eggs at 55 to 60°F (13 to 16°C) with 70 to 75 percent relative humidity. Store them pointed end down in egg cartons or trays. Turn stored eggs once daily by tilting the carton from side to side. Do not store eggs for more than 7 to 10 days. Hatch rate declines about 1 percent per day after the first week of storage. Eggs stored for more than 14 days often have significantly reduced hatch rates.

Do not incubate eggs that are cracked, misshapen, very large, very small, or excessively dirty. These eggs are less likely to hatch and may contaminate the incubator. Select eggs of uniform size from flocks that are at least 22 weeks old for chickens. Eggs from very young or very old hens tend to have lower hatch rates.

Setting Up the Incubator

Set up your incubator in a room where the ambient temperature is stable, ideally between 65 and 75°F (18 to 24°C). Avoid rooms with direct sunlight, drafts, or heating and cooling vents. The incubator should be on a level surface that can support its weight and that is easy to clean.

Run the incubator empty for 24 to 48 hours before you set your eggs. This allows you to confirm that the temperature and humidity are stable and to make any necessary adjustments. During this test period, check the temperature and humidity at least twice daily and adjust the controls as needed.

Add water to the humidity pans according to the manufacturer's instructions. Use warm water to help bring the humidity up quickly. Do not add water directly to the eggs or to the incubator floor unless the manufacturer directs you to do so.

Let your stored eggs warm to room temperature before placing them in the incubator. Cold eggs placed directly into a warm incubator can cause condensation to form on the shells, which promotes bacterial growth. Allow the eggs to sit at room temperature for 6 to 8 hours before setting them.

Setting Eggs in the Incubator

Place eggs in the incubator trays with the pointed end down and the blunt end up. The air cell is located at the blunt end, and the embryo develops with its head toward the air cell. Positioning the egg with the blunt end up allows the chick to pip into the air cell at hatch.

If you are using an automatic egg turner, follow the manufacturer's instructions for loading the trays. If you are turning by hand, place the eggs in the incubator and mark one side of each egg with an X and the other side with an O. Use only a soft pencil, never a marker, because the ink can penetrate the shell.

Set all eggs within a 24 hour period. This ensures that all chicks hatch within a narrow window. If you add eggs over several days, the hatch will be spread out, and you will need to manage chicks at different stages of development in the same incubator.

The number of eggs you can set depends on the size of your incubator and the size of the eggs. Do not overcrowd. Eggs need space around them for air circulation. As a general rule, leave at least 1 inch of space between eggs.

Temperature Management During Incubation

Maintaining the correct temperature is the most important thing you can do for a successful hatch. For forced air incubators, maintain 99.5°F (37.5°C) at all times. For still air incubators, maintain 101.5°F (38.6°C) measured at the top of the eggs.

Check the temperature at least twice daily, morning and evening. Record the temperature each time you check it. If the temperature drifts outside the acceptable range, adjust the thermostat in small increments and recheck after 30 minutes. Do not make large adjustments, as this can cause the temperature to swing widely.

Temperatures below 99°F (37.2°C) slow embryo development. If the temperature drops for a short period, the hatch may be delayed by a few hours. If it drops below 90°F (32.2°C) for more than a few hours, the embryos may die. Temperatures above 100.5°F (38°C) accelerate development but can cause weak chicks, deformed chicks, or embryos that die before hatch. Temperatures above 103°F (39.4°C) are usually lethal within a few hours.

During the final three days of incubation, the eggs produce their own heat as the embryos become more active. This is called metabolic heat. In large incubators or during warm weather, the internal temperature can rise above the set point. Monitor the temperature closely during this period and reduce the incubator temperature setting slightly if needed. In small incubators, metabolic heat is rarely a problem.

Humidity Management During Incubation

Humidity controls the rate of moisture loss from the eggs. The developing embryo needs to lose about 13 to 15 percent of the egg's starting weight by the time of hatch. If the humidity is too high, the egg loses too little moisture, and the chick may drown in the shell at hatch. If the humidity is too low, the egg loses too much moisture, and the chick may stick to the shell membrane and die.

Maintain 45 to 55 percent relative humidity during the first 18 days of incubation for chicken eggs. Some incubators are calibrated to measure wet bulb temperature instead of relative humidity. For a forced air incubator at 99.5°F (37.5°C), a wet bulb reading of 82 to 86°F (28 to 30°C) corresponds to roughly 45 to 55 percent relative humidity.

The ideal humidity depends on your local climate and the size of your eggs. In dry climates, you may need to add more water or increase the surface area of the water pans. In humid climates, you may need to use less water or increase ventilation. Large eggs have a smaller surface area relative to their volume, so they lose moisture more slowly and may need lower humidity.

Monitor humidity daily and record your readings. Add water to the humidity pans as needed to maintain the target range. Use warm water to avoid dropping the incubator temperature. Do not open the incubator more than necessary, as this causes both temperature and humidity to fluctuate.

A more accurate method of monitoring moisture loss is to weigh a sample of eggs periodically. Choose 6 to 10 eggs and weigh them on a digital scale before setting them in the incubator. Weigh the same eggs every 3 to 4 days and calculate the percentage weight loss. The eggs should lose about 0.5 to 0.7 percent of their starting weight per day. At day 18, the cumulative weight loss should be 13 to 15 percent. If the eggs are losing weight too quickly, increase humidity. If they are losing weight too slowly, decrease humidity.

Egg Turning During Incubation

Egg turning is critical during the first 18 days of incubation. The embryo floats on top of the yolk and needs to be repositioned regularly to prevent it from sticking to the shell membrane. Turning also promotes proper development of the extra embryonic membranes, including the allantois, which handles gas exchange and waste removal.

Turn eggs at least 3 times daily, and 5 times daily is better. Many commercial producers turn eggs hourly using automatic turners. If you are turning by hand, turn eggs an odd number of times each day so that the eggs do not rest in the same position two nights in a row. A common schedule is turning at 8 a.m., 2 p.m., and 8 p.m., or at 7 a.m., 12 p.m., 5 p.m., and 10 p.m.

To turn eggs by hand, place both hands over the eggs and roll them gently to the opposite side. The goal is to rotate the egg about 180 degrees. The exact angle is less important than the frequency and consistency of turning. Turn each egg individually to ensure that all eggs are turned. The X and O marks help you confirm that you have turned every egg.

Stop turning eggs at day 18 for chickens. This is called lockdown. The chick is now positioning itself for hatch and needs to remain still. If you are using an automatic turner, remove the eggs from the turner and place them on the incubator floor or in a hatch tray. If you are using a still air incubator, place the eggs on the floor or on a wire rack. Do not turn eggs after lockdown.

Candling Eggs to Monitor Development

Candling is the process of shining a bright light through the egg to observe the embryo's development. It allows you to identify infertile eggs, eggs with dead embryos, and eggs that are developing normally. Candling also helps you monitor the size of the air cell, which indicates whether moisture loss is on track.

Candle eggs at day 7 and day 14 of incubation for chickens. You can also candle at day 10 if you want additional monitoring. To candle an egg, hold it over the light source in a darkened room. Cup your hand around the egg to block stray light. Look for the following signs:

At day 7, a fertile egg shows a dark spot with blood vessels radiating outward like a spider web. The embryo is visible as a dark mass near the center. An infertile egg appears clear, with no visible structures. A dead embryo may show a blood ring, which is a dark red circle on the inside of the shell. Remove clear eggs and eggs with blood rings from the incubator.

At day 14, the embryo fills most of the egg and appears as a large dark mass. The air cell should be visible at the blunt end and should be growing in size. Blood vessels may be visible through the shell in thin shelled eggs. Eggs that appear clear or that have a dark mass with no visible movement may contain dead embryos. Remove these eggs to reduce the risk of contamination.

When candling, work quickly to minimize the time eggs are out of the incubator. Handle eggs gently and do not rotate them excessively. Return each egg to the incubator in the same position it was in before candling.

Lockdown and Hatching

Lockdown begins at day 18 for chicken eggs. During lockdown, you stop turning the eggs and increase the humidity to 60 to 70 percent relative humidity. The higher humidity prevents the chick from drying out and sticking to the shell during the hatch process.

At lockdown, remove the eggs from the automatic turner and place them on the incubator floor or in a hatch tray. The hatch tray should have a non slip surface, such as a wire mesh or a rubber mat, so the chicks can grip it as they hatch. Do not use a smooth surface, as chicks may develop splayed legs.

Keep the incubator closed during lockdown. Every time you open the incubator, you release humidity and heat, which can cause chicks to become stuck in the shell. Only open the incubator to add water to the humidity pans, and do this as quickly as possible. Do not open the incubator to check on chicks or to help them hatch unless absolutely necessary.

At day 21, the chicks will begin to pip. Pipping is when the chick breaks through the inner membrane and into the air cell. The chick will then pip through the shell, creating a small hole. It may take 12 to 24 hours from the first pip to the chick fully emerging from the shell. This is normal. The chick is resting and absorbing the yolk sac during this time.

The hatch window for a batch of eggs is typically 24 to 48 hours. Most chicks will hatch between day 21 and day 22. Do not discard eggs that have not hatched by day 22. Some chicks hatch as late as day 23, especially if the eggs were stored for more than a week or if the temperature was slightly low during incubation.

Assisting Chicks With Hatching

The general rule is to let chicks hatch on their own. Interfering with the hatch can cause more harm than good. Chicks that are pulled from the shell too early may have unabsorbed yolk sacs, which can lead to infection or death.

You may need to assist a chick if it has pipped and then made no progress for 12 to 24 hours. First, check the humidity. If the humidity is too low, the membrane inside the shell may have dried and stuck to the chick. Increase the humidity and wait a few more hours. If the chick still makes no progress, you may need to help.

To assist a chick, carefully chip away small pieces of shell around the pip hole. Work slowly and gently. Do not pull the chick out of the shell. The chick needs to finish absorbing its yolk sac, and pulling it out too early can be fatal. If you see blood, stop immediately. The chick is not ready. Return the egg to the incubator and wait.

After assisting a chick, do not put it back in the incubator with the other eggs if it has open wounds or excessive blood. The blood and fluids can contaminate the incubator and affect other chicks. Place the chick in a separate brooder with appropriate heat and monitor it closely.

Post Hatch Care

Leave chicks in the incubator for 6 to 12 hours after they hatch. This allows them to dry off and fluff up. Do not move chicks to the brooder until they are dry and walking steadily. Chicks can survive for up to 48 hours without food or water because they absorb the yolk sac before hatching, but it is best to provide feed and water as soon as they are in the brooder.

The brooder should be preheated to 95°F (35°C) for the first week. Reduce the temperature by 5°F (2.8°C) each week until the chicks are fully feathered. Provide a quality chick starter feed with 18 to 20 percent protein. Use chick sized feeders and waterers to prevent drowning and contamination.

Do not leave unhatched eggs in the incubator indefinitely. After the hatch window has passed, usually day 23 for chickens, remove all unhatched eggs. Candle them to determine if the embryo died early, late, or never developed. This information helps you diagnose problems with your incubation process.

Clean the incubator thoroughly after each hatch. Remove all shells, down, and debris. Wash all surfaces with warm soapy water and a disinfectant that is safe for use around poultry. Rinse thoroughly and allow the incubator to dry completely before storing it or setting another batch of eggs.

Common Incubation Mistakes

Many incubation problems are caused by a small number of recurring mistakes. The most common is inaccurate temperature measurement. Many incubators have built in thermometers that are not calibrated. Always verify the temperature with a separate, calibrated thermometer placed at egg level. In still air incubators, the temperature at the top of the eggs can be several degrees warmer than at the bottom. Measure at the correct location for your incubator type.

Opening the incubator too frequently is another common problem. Every time the incubator is opened, temperature and humidity drop. This causes the eggs to cool and the shells to dry. Minimize openings to once or twice daily for turning, and do not open the incubator at all during lockdown except to add water.

Incorrect humidity causes many hatch failures. Low humidity causes excessive moisture loss, resulting in chicks that are small, weak, and stuck to the shell. High humidity causes insufficient moisture loss, resulting in chicks that are large, waterlogged, and unable to pip. Monitor humidity daily and adjust as needed. Weighing eggs periodically is the most accurate way to verify that moisture loss is on track.

Poor egg handling before incubation reduces hatch rates. Eggs that are stored too long, at the wrong temperature, or that are not turned during storage will have reduced viability. Eggs that are washed or that are dirty and contaminated can introduce bacteria into the incubator, leading to rotten eggs and exploding eggs.

Failure to candle eggs allows problems to go unnoticed. Clear eggs and eggs with dead embryos take up space and can contaminate the incubator when they rot. Candle at day 7 and day 14 and remove problem eggs promptly.

Monitoring and Recordkeeping

Accurate recordkeeping is essential for improving your hatch rates over time. Keep a notebook or spreadsheet for each hatch. Record the date eggs were set, the source of the eggs, the breed, the number of eggs set, and the incubator settings. Record temperature and humidity readings at least twice daily. Note any adjustments you made and when you made them.

Record candling results at day 7 and day 14. Note the number of clear eggs, the number of eggs with dead embryos, and the number of eggs with normal development. At hatch, record the number of chicks hatched, the number of cull chicks, and the number of unhatched eggs. Break open unhatched eggs after the hatch to determine the stage of death. This information helps you identify problems.

Calculate your hatch rate by dividing the number of healthy chicks by the number of eggs set. A good hatch rate for chicken eggs is 80 to 90 percent. If your hatch rate is consistently below 70 percent, review your records to identify the problem. Look for patterns such as high early death, high late death, or a high number of clear eggs.

When to Call a Veterinarian or Extension Agent

Most incubation problems are caused by management issues such as incorrect temperature, humidity, or egg handling. However, some problems may indicate a health issue in your breeding flock. If you see any of the following signs, contact your veterinarian or local cooperative extension agent:

A high number of clear eggs may indicate infertility, which can be caused by poor rooster fertility, nutritional deficiencies, or disease. If your hatch rate drops suddenly and you have not changed your incubation procedures, have your breeding flock checked by a veterinarian.

A high number of early dead embryos, especially if accompanied by malformed embryos, may indicate a nutritional deficiency in the breeding flock or exposure to toxins. Vitamin deficiencies, particularly vitamin E and riboflavin, can cause embryo death. Mycotoxins from moldy feed can also cause embryo mortality.

A high number of late dead embryos may indicate problems with incubation conditions during the final days, or it may indicate a disease problem in the breeding flock. Some bacterial and viral infections can be transmitted through the egg. If you see signs of disease in chicks after hatch, such as weakness, diarrhea, or respiratory distress, contact your veterinarian immediately.

If eggs explode in the incubator or if you see green or black discoloration in eggs, this indicates bacterial contamination. Remove all affected eggs immediately and thoroughly disinfect the incubator. If contamination recurs, have your eggs tested for bacterial contamination.

Your local cooperative extension agent can help you with egg testing, incubation troubleshooting, and flock health questions. They can also connect you with diagnostic laboratories that can test eggs and chicks for disease.

Incubation for Other Poultry Species

While this guide focuses on chicken eggs, the same principles apply to other poultry species. The main differences are the incubation period and the recommended temperature and humidity.

Duck eggs take 28 days to hatch. Maintain the same temperature as chicken eggs, 99.5°F (37.5°C) for forced air incubators. Humidity should be slightly higher, around 55 to 60 percent during incubation, increasing to 70 to 75 percent during the final three days. Duck eggs have a thicker shell and a different pore structure, so they require more moisture.

Turkey eggs also take 28 days to hatch. Maintain 99.5°F (37.5°C) and 55 to 60 percent humidity during incubation. Increase humidity to 65 to 70 percent during the final three days. Turkey eggs are larger than chicken eggs and may require slightly more ventilation.

Goose eggs take 30 to 32 days to hatch. Maintain 99.5°F (37.5°C) and 55 to 60 percent humidity. Goose eggs are much larger and require more moisture than chicken eggs. Some producers mist goose eggs with warm water once daily during incubation to prevent the shells from drying out.

Quail eggs take 18 days to hatch for Coturnix quail. Maintain 99.5°F (37.5°C) and 45 to 50 percent humidity. Quail eggs are small and may require a different incubator tray to hold them securely.

Guinea fowl eggs take 28 days to hatch. Maintain 99.5°F (37.5°C) and 50 to 55 percent humidity. Guinea eggs have very hard shells and may benefit from slightly higher humidity during the hatch.

Troubleshooting Poor Hatch Rates

When your hatch rate is poor, work through the following checklist to identify the problem:

Check your temperature records. Were temperatures within the acceptable range at all times? Were there any power outages or equipment failures? Even a few hours at the wrong temperature can reduce hatch rates.

Check your humidity records. Were humidity levels within the target range? Did you weigh eggs to verify moisture loss? Eggs that lose too much or too little moisture will have poor hatch rates.

Check your turning records. Were eggs turned at least 3 times daily for the first 18 days? Were eggs turned consistently, or were there gaps? Inconsistent turning causes embryos to stick to the shell membrane.

Check your egg storage practices. Were eggs stored at the correct temperature and humidity? Were they stored for less than 10 days? Were they turned during storage?

Check your breeding flock. Were the hens and roosters healthy and well fed? Were the eggs collected promptly and handled gently? Did you incubate eggs from young or old hens, which have lower fertility?

Candle unhatched eggs after the hatch and break them open to determine the stage of death. Early death, before day 7, often indicates infertility or poor egg storage. Mid death, between day 7 and day 18, often indicates incubation problems or nutritional deficiencies. Late death, after day 18, often indicates problems with humidity, temperature, or turning during the final days.

If you cannot identify the problem from your records, set a small test batch of eggs from a known fertile source. This helps you determine whether the problem is with your incubator or with your breeding flock.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long can eggs be stored before incubation? Hatching eggs should be incubated within 7 to 10 days of being laid. Hatch rate declines about 1 percent per day after the first week of storage. Eggs stored for more than 14 days usually have significantly reduced hatch rates. Store eggs at 55 to 60°F (13 to 16°C) with 70 to 75 percent humidity, pointed end down, and turn them daily by tilting the carton.

Can I hatch eggs from my grocery store carton? No. Eggs sold for human consumption are typically not fertilized. Commercial egg laying flocks do not have roosters, so the eggs are infertile. Even if a grocery store egg were fertilized, it has likely been refrigerated and washed, which damages the bloom and reduces the chance of successful incubation.

What is the ideal chicken egg hatching temperature? For forced air incubators, maintain 99.5°F (37.5°C) measured at egg level. For still air incubators, maintain 101.5°F (38.6°C) measured at the top of the eggs. Temperatures below 99°F slow development and delay hatch. Temperatures above 100.5°F can cause weak or deformed chicks. Check and record the temperature at least twice daily.

What should the humidity for hatching eggs be? Maintain 45 to 55 percent relative humidity during the first 18 days of incubation for chicken eggs. Increase to 60 to 70 percent during lockdown and hatching. Low humidity causes chicks to stick to the shell and die. High humidity causes chicks to drown in the shell. Weigh a sample of eggs to verify that they are losing 13 to 15 percent of their starting weight by day 18.

How often should I turn eggs during incubation? Turn eggs at least 3 times daily, and 5 times daily is better. Turn eggs an odd number of times each day so that eggs do not rest in the same position overnight. Stop turning at day 18 for chickens. Automatic turners that operate hourly are ideal for consistent turning.

Why did my chicks die before hatching? Early embryo death, before day 7, is often caused by infertility, poor egg storage, or rough handling of eggs. Mid embryo death is often caused by temperature or humidity fluctuations, nutritional deficiencies in the breeding flock, or disease. Late embryo death, after day 18, is often caused by incorrect humidity during the hatch, failure to stop turning, or insufficient ventilation. Break open unhatched eggs after the hatch to determine the stage of death.

Should I help a chick that is struggling to hatch? Generally, no. Let chicks hatch on their own. Assisting too early can cause the chick to die from an unabsorbed yolk sac or infection. Only assist a chick that has pipped and made no progress for 12 to 24 hours. If you assist, work slowly, stop if you see blood, and do not pull the chick from the shell.

What is lockdown in egg incubation? Lockdown is the period from day 18 to hatch for chicken eggs. During lockdown, you stop turning the eggs, increase humidity to 60 to 70 percent, and do not open the incubator except to add water. The chicks are positioning themselves for hatch and need stable conditions. Opening the incubator during lockdown causes temperature and humidity to drop, which can cause chicks to become stuck in the shell.

Related Farming Guides

This section will be populated with links to additional farming guides on related topics, including brooding and raising chicks, breeding flock management, and poultry health and disease prevention. Check back for updates or explore other guides in the farm management category.

Related Clinical & Scientific Guides

• Animal Welfare Audits: Building a Useful Farm Program
• Total Mixed Ration (TMR) for Dairy: Mixing and Feeding Management
• Feed Additives for Livestock: Probiotics, Enzymes, and More

References

• USDA Farm Management: https://www.farmers.gov/
• FAO Farm Management: https://www.fao.org/farmer-field-schools/en/
• FAO Animal Production and Health: https://www.fao.org/animal-production/en/
• WOAH (World Organisation for Animal Health): https://www.woah.org/en/home/

This article is educational and is not a substitute for veterinary diagnosis, treatment, public-health guidance, or regulatory reporting.