Fencing Systems for Livestock: Permanent and Temporary Options

By Dr. Zubair Khalid, DVM, MS, PhD · 2026-08-14

Key Takeaways

• Permanent fencing, characterized by higher initial costs (3-5x more per foot) and significant labor for installation, offers a lifespan of 20-40 years and is best suited for boundary lines, permanent paddocks, and high-value livestock requiring robust containment and predator control.
• Temporary fencing, with lower initial costs but requiring more frequent maintenance and replacement (5-15 year lifespan), is ideal for rotational grazing, seasonal use, and adaptable paddock configurations due to its high flexibility and lower installation labor requirements.
• Livestock type dictates fence design: cattle require strong, tall fences (48-54 inches) to prevent pushing, while sheep and goats necessitate smaller mesh openings (≤6 inches at the bottom) and higher fences (40-54 inches) to prevent crawling under, squeezing through, or escaping.
• Electric fencing, particularly high-tensile systems, relies on a powerful energizer (minimum 3,000 volts at the farthest point) and a robust grounding system (at least 3 ground rods) to be effective; vegetation management is critical to prevent shorting and voltage loss.
• Proper installation of permanent fencing involves deep-set corner/brace posts with robust bracing assemblies and appropriate line post spacing (12-20 ft for barbed wire, 8-12 ft for woven wire, 30-60 ft for high-tensile electric) to maintain wire tension and structural integrity.
• Temporary electric fencing utilizes lightweight materials like polywire/polytape with step-in posts and portable energizers (1-5 joules output depending on fence length and vegetation) for rapid paddock creation and movement, but requires daily voltage checks and prompt repair of breaks.

Choosing the right fencing system is one of the most important management decisions you will make on your farm. Fencing controls animal movement, protects crops, keeps predators out, and defines your grazing system. The wrong choice wastes money and time, and it can put your livestock at risk. This guide covers permanent and temporary fencing options for cattle and sheep, compares costs and labor requirements, and helps you decide which system fits your operation. It is written for farmers, ranch managers, and farm employees who need practical, field-tested guidance.

At a Glance

Understanding Your Fencing Needs

Before you buy any materials, take time to assess your situation. The best fencing system depends on your livestock type, herd size, terrain, budget, and management goals. A beef cow operation on 500 acres has different needs than a small sheep flock on 10 acres. Do not copy your neighbor's fence without understanding why it works for them and whether it will work for you.

Livestock Type and Behavior

Cattle and sheep have different behaviors that affect fence design. Cattle are large and strong. A mature bull can push through a poorly built fence. Cattle also test fences with their heads and bodies, especially when they see feed or other animals on the other side. Sheep are smaller but persistent. They crawl under fences, squeeze through small gaps, and get caught in woven wire if the openings are too large. Sheep also have a strong flocking instinct. If one sheep finds a way through a fence, the rest will follow.

Horned animals need different fence spacing than polled animals. Horns can get caught in woven wire or barbed wire, causing serious injury. If you run horned cattle or sheep, plan fence spacing that prevents head and horn entrapment.

Terrain and Soil

Walk your property before you plan fence lines. Rocky ground makes post driving difficult and may require rock drilling or concrete footings. Wet areas and streams create erosion problems around fence posts. Steep slopes make installation harder and may require extra bracing at corners. Sandy soil holds posts poorly and may need deeper post setting. Clay soil holds posts well but can heave in freezing weather.

Note the location of existing fences, roads, water sources, and buildings. Plan fence lines that follow natural boundaries where possible. Straight lines are easier to build and maintain than fences that follow every contour.

Budget Considerations

Fencing is a capital investment. You will pay more upfront for permanent fencing, but it lasts longer and requires less daily attention. Temporary fencing costs less initially but needs ongoing replacement and more labor to move and maintain. Calculate the true cost over 10 to 20 years, not just the purchase price.

Include these costs in your budget:

• Posts, wire, insulators, and hardware
• Tools and equipment for installation
• Energizer for electric fences
• Labor for installation
• Maintenance and repair over time
• Water and feed access improvements needed for new paddocks

Management Goals

Your fencing system should match how you manage your livestock. If you practice rotational grazing, you need interior fencing that is easy to move. If you run a cow-calf operation with a fixed calving season, you may need permanent paddocks for calving and weaning. If you raise sheep on pasture, you need predator control that permanent fencing provides.

Think about your goals for the next 10 years. A fence that works for your current herd may not work if you plan to expand, change species, or adopt a new grazing system. Build flexibility into your plan where possible.

Permanent Fencing Options

Permanent fencing is the backbone of most livestock operations. It defines your boundaries, protects your animals, and lasts for decades when built correctly. Permanent fences require more upfront investment, but they provide reliable containment with minimal daily attention.

Barbed Wire Fencing

Barbed wire is one of the most common permanent fencing materials for cattle. It is relatively inexpensive, easy to install, and effective at containing cattle when built properly. Standard barbed wire has two strands twisted together with barbs spaced every 4 to 5 inches. Common gauges are 12.5 and 14.

A typical cattle fence uses 4 to 5 strands of barbed wire. The bottom strand sits 12 to 16 inches above the ground, and each successive strand is spaced 10 to 12 inches higher. The top strand typically sits at 48 to 54 inches. Post spacing ranges from 12 to 20 feet depending on terrain and wire tension. Use closer spacing on uneven ground and at corners.

Barbed wire has serious drawbacks. It can injure livestock, especially horses and young animals. Cattle can become entangled and suffer deep cuts. Sheep and goats should never be contained with barbed wire alone because their wool and hair catch on the barbs. Barbed wire also provides no visual barrier. Animals may not see the fence until they contact it.

If you use barbed wire, follow these installation guidelines:

• Set corner and brace posts at every change in direction
• Use H-brace or diagonal brace assemblies at corners and gates
• Stretch wire with a come-along or mechanical stretcher
• Attach wire to the inside of posts so pressure does not pull staples out
• Use at least 2 staples per post for each wire strand
• Keep wire tight enough to twang when plucked, but not so tight it breaks

Woven Wire Fencing

Woven wire, also called field fence or net wire, is a grid of horizontal and vertical wires. It provides a physical barrier that works well for sheep, goats, and cattle. Woven wire comes in different heights, mesh sizes, and wire gauges. Common heights range from 26 to 48 inches. Mesh openings range from 4 to 12 inches.

For sheep, choose woven wire with small mesh openings at the bottom. A 6-inch mesh at the bottom prevents sheep from sticking their heads through. For cattle, larger mesh is acceptable because cattle are less likely to get trapped. Some producers use woven wire for the bottom 3 feet and add 2 to 3 strands of barbed wire or smooth wire above for extra height.

Woven wire is more expensive than barbed wire but safer for livestock. It also provides a visual barrier that helps animals respect the fence. The main disadvantage is installation difficulty. Woven wire comes in rolls that are heavy and awkward to handle. It must be stretched evenly to prevent sagging and to keep the wire grid square.

Installation tips for woven wire:

• Use line posts every 8 to 12 feet, closer on uneven ground
• Set corner and brace posts at all corners and gates
• Stretch the wire with a mechanical stretcher designed for woven wire
• Attach the wire to posts with staples, driving them at an angle
• Keep the bottom wire close to the ground to prevent animals from crawling under
• Check for gaps under the fence on uneven ground and fill them

High Tensile Electric Fencing

High tensile electric fencing uses smooth, high-tensile wire energized by a fence charger. This system is popular for cattle operations because it is less expensive than woven wire or barbed wire and provides excellent containment when properly maintained. High tensile wire is stronger than standard wire and can be stretched over longer distances with fewer posts.

A high tensile fence typically uses 5 to 8 strands of wire. The number of strands depends on the livestock species. Cattle need fewer strands than sheep. A common cattle fence uses 5 strands with the top wire at 48 to 54 inches. A sheep fence needs closer wire spacing, often 6 to 8 strands with the bottom wires 4 to 6 inches apart.

The energizer is the heart of an electric fence system. It must deliver enough voltage to deter your livestock consistently. A good rule is at least 3,000 volts at the farthest point from the energizer. Larger energizers are needed for longer fences, more vegetation, and dry or sandy soil. Always buy an energizer with more capacity than you think you need.

High tensile electric fencing requires more management than non-electric fences. Vegetation must be controlled under the fence line because weeds and grass can short out the system. Insulators must be checked and replaced when cracked. Wire tension must be maintained. A poorly maintained electric fence is worse than no fence because animals learn they can cross it.

Grounding is critical for electric fences. You need at least 3 ground rods, 6 to 8 feet apart, driven into moist soil. Dry, sandy, or rocky soil requires more ground rods. The ground system should be connected to the energizer with heavy gauge wire. A poor ground system reduces fence voltage and can make the fence ineffective.

Permanent Electric Netting

Electric netting is a type of portable fence that can be used as a permanent system. It consists of vertical posts with horizontal electrified strands. The netting comes in rolls of 50 to 150 feet and is easy to install and move. Electric netting is popular for sheep and goats because the small mesh contains them effectively and deters predators.

For permanent use, choose heavier gauge netting with fiberglass or steel posts. Install corner posts at the ends and drive the vertical posts into the ground. The netting should be electrified with a quality energizer and checked regularly. Permanent electric netting works well for small operations, homesteads, and areas where you need to move animals frequently.

The main disadvantage of electric netting is the initial cost. Quality netting is expensive per foot compared to other fencing materials. It also has a shorter lifespan than high tensile or woven wire. The posts can break, and the electrified strands can corrode or break over time. Plan to replace sections every 5 to 10 years depending on use.

Temporary Fencing Options

Temporary fencing gives you flexibility that permanent fencing cannot provide. You can create paddocks, control grazing, protect sensitive areas, and manage livestock without building permanent structures. Temporary fencing is essential for rotational grazing systems and works well for producers who need to adapt quickly to changing conditions.

Polywire and Polytape

Polywire and polytape are lightweight, portable fencing materials made of plastic strands woven with stainless steel or copper filaments. They are used with step-in posts or temporary posts and are powered by a portable energizer. Polywire is thin and less visible, while polytape is wider and more visible to livestock.

These materials are ideal for creating temporary paddocks within a permanent fence. You can set up a new paddock in 30 minutes and move it the next day. Polywire and polytape are inexpensive, making them the most common temporary fencing materials. The main disadvantage is durability. These materials break easily and must be replaced often.

When using polywire or polytape, follow these steps:

1. Plan your paddock layout and measure the area
2. Drive step-in posts every 20 to 30 feet along the fence line
3. Unroll the polywire or polytape and attach it to the posts
4. Connect the wire to your energizer using a lead-out wire
5. Test the voltage at the farthest point from the energizer
6. Check the fence daily and repair any breaks or sagging

Use white or brightly colored polytape for better visibility. Livestock that cannot see the fence may walk through it. For sheep and goats, use polytape rather than polywire because it is more visible and less likely to cause injury.

Step-In Posts

Step-in posts are lightweight posts that you push into the ground by foot. They come in plastic, fiberglass, or steel, with a hook or notch at the top to hold wire. Step-in posts are the standard for temporary electric fencing. They are easy to install and remove, making them ideal for rotational grazing.

Choose step-in posts that are at least 3 to 4 feet tall for cattle and 4 to 5 feet for sheep and goats. Taller posts provide better visibility and prevent animals from stepping over the fence. Plastic posts are inexpensive but break in cold weather. Fiberglass posts last longer but are more expensive. Steel posts are the most durable but heavier and harder to install.

When setting step-in posts, push them into the ground until they are firm. In hard or rocky soil, you may need to use a driver or choose a different post type. Space posts closer together on uneven ground or where animals are likely to test the fence.

Reels and Handles

Reels hold polywire or polytape for easy deployment and retrieval. A reel attaches to a handle that you carry as you walk the fence line. Some reels come with built-in ratchets for tensioning the wire. Quality reels are worth the investment because they save time and prevent tangles.

When choosing reels, look for these features:

• Smooth operation that does not kink the wire
• A brake or lock to prevent unwinding
• A ratchet for tensioning
• A comfortable handle that does not slip
• Capacity for the length of wire you need

Store reels indoors when not in use. Sunlight and weather degrade plastic reels and wire over time. Inspect reels before each use and replace damaged parts.

Portable Energizers

Portable energizers power temporary fences. They run on batteries, solar panels, or a combination of both. Battery-powered energizers are the most common for temporary fencing because they are easy to move and do not require a power outlet. Solar-powered energizers are convenient for remote areas but require direct sunlight to keep batteries charged.

When choosing a portable energizer, consider the length of fence you need to power and the vegetation conditions. More vegetation requires a more powerful energizer because plants short out the fence. A general guide is:

• 1 joule output for up to 1 mile of fence with light vegetation
• 2 to 3 joules for 2 to 3 miles of fence with moderate vegetation
• 5 joules or more for long fences or heavy vegetation

Battery life depends on the energizer, battery capacity, and fence conditions. Check batteries regularly and keep spares charged. Solar panels should be positioned to receive direct sunlight for most of the day, especially in winter when days are short.

Temporary Electric Netting

Temporary electric netting works like permanent netting but uses lighter materials. It is ideal for sheep, goats, poultry, and small cattle operations. The netting comes in 50 to 150 foot rolls and can be moved easily. Temporary netting provides better predator control than polywire because the small mesh deters coyotes and dogs.

Set up temporary netting by:

1. Unrolling the netting along the desired fence line
2. Driving the vertical posts into the ground
3. Connecting the netting to a portable energizer
4. Testing the voltage at the farthest point
5. Checking for gaps under the netting on uneven ground

Temporary netting requires more maintenance than polywire. Posts can break, and the netting can tangle. Move the netting carefully and store it properly when not in use. Inspect the netting before each use and repair broken strands or posts.

Comparing Permanent and Temporary Systems

The choice between permanent and temporary fencing depends on your specific situation. Many operations use both. A permanent boundary fence protects your property line and contains your livestock. Temporary interior fences create paddocks and control grazing. This combination gives you the security of permanent fencing and the flexibility of temporary fencing.

When to Choose Permanent Fencing

Choose permanent fencing when:

• You need to protect a boundary line for decades
• You run high-value livestock that must not escape
• You need predator control for sheep, goats, or calves
• You have the budget for the initial investment
• You want minimal daily maintenance
• Your grazing system uses fixed paddocks

Permanent fencing makes sense for the perimeter of your property, along roads, and around your home and outbuildings. It also works well for calving paddocks, weaning pens, and other areas that stay in the same place year after year.

When to Choose Temporary Fencing

Choose temporary fencing when:

• You practice rotational grazing and move animals frequently
• You need to adapt to changing pasture conditions
• You want to try a new grazing system before committing
• Your budget does not allow permanent fencing
• You lease land and cannot install permanent structures
• You need to protect areas for short periods

Temporary fencing is ideal for strip grazing, where you give animals a fresh strip of pasture each day. It also works well for dividing large permanent paddocks into smaller cells. You can move the temporary fence in minutes to adjust paddock size based on forage availability.

Cost Comparison

Permanent fencing costs more upfront but lasts longer. A high quality permanent fence may cost 3 to 5 dollars per foot for materials and installation. A temporary fence using polywire and step-in posts costs 20 to 50 cents per foot. However, temporary fence materials must be replaced every 5 to 10 years, while a permanent fence can last 20 to 40 years.

Consider the labor cost of moving temporary fencing. If you move a fence every day, the labor adds up. A permanent fence requires no moving, but it does require regular inspection and repair. Calculate the total cost over 10 years to make an accurate comparison.

Step-by-Step Guide to Building a Permanent Fence

Building a permanent fence is a significant project. Follow these steps to ensure a fence that lasts and performs well.

Step 1: Plan the Fence Line

Walk the property and mark the fence line with flags or paint. Check property boundaries and local regulations before you start. Talk to neighbors about shared fences and coordinate with them if needed. Identify any underground utilities before you dig or drive posts. Call your local utility locating service before you start work.

Step 2: Gather Materials and Tools

Purchase all materials before you start. You will need:

• Posts (wood, steel, or fiberglass)
• Wire (barbed, woven, or high tensile)
• Staples or clips
• Insulators for electric fences
• Corner and brace assemblies
• Gates and hardware
• Concrete for setting corner posts if needed

Tools you will need include:

• Post hole digger or auger
• Post driver or sledgehammer
• Wire stretcher
• Staple puller
• Level and measuring tape
• Gloves and safety glasses

Step 3: Set Corner and Brace Posts

Corners are the most important part of a fence. A poorly built corner will pull out and cause the entire fence to sag. Set corner posts at least 6 feet deep in concrete. Install a brace assembly that connects the corner post to a brace post set 8 to 10 feet away. Use a diagonal wire or wooden brace to create a strong assembly.

For an H-brace, set two posts 8 to 10 feet apart and connect them with a horizontal brace. Run a diagonal wire from the top of the corner post to the bottom of the brace post and tighten it. This creates a structure that resists the pull of the fence wire.

Step 4: Set Line Posts

Set line posts at the spacing recommended for your fence type. For barbed wire, space posts 12 to 20 feet apart. For woven wire, space posts 8 to 12 feet apart. For high tensile electric fence, space posts 30 to 60 feet apart with line posts between.

Drive steel posts with a post driver, holding the driver straight to prevent bending. Set wood posts in holes and tamp the soil firmly around them. On uneven ground, adjust post spacing to keep the fence line level.

Step 5: Install Wire

Start with the bottom wire and work up. This keeps the wire off the ground and makes it easier to maintain tension. For barbed wire, use a stretcher to pull the wire tight. Attach the wire to posts with staples, driving them at an angle so they do not pull out. For woven wire, use a stretcher designed for netting and attach it evenly to avoid distortion.

For high tensile electric fence, install insulators on each post before running the wire. Use a strainer or ratchet to tension the wire. The wire should be tight enough to twang when plucked but not so tight that it breaks. Check tension after a few weeks and adjust as needed.

Step 6: Install Gates

Install gates where you need access. Choose gates that are wide enough for your equipment. A 12 to 16 foot gate works for most operations. Hang gates so they swing freely and latch securely. Consider installing a gate at every paddock entrance to make livestock movement easier.

Step 7: Test and Inspect

After installation, walk the entire fence line and check for problems. Look for loose wire, missing staples, gaps under the fence, and damaged posts. For electric fences, test the voltage at the farthest point from the energizer. Fix any issues before turning livestock into the area.

Step-by-Step Guide to Setting Up Temporary Fencing

Temporary fencing is quick to install, but it still requires proper technique to work well. Follow these steps for a reliable temporary fence.

Step 1: Plan the Paddock

Determine the size of the paddock based on your herd size, forage availability, and grazing period. A good starting point is to provide enough forage for 3 to 7 days of grazing. Use a grazing stick or pasture measurement tool to estimate forage available.

Step 2: Gather Materials

You will need:

• Step-in posts
• Polywire or polytape on reels
• A portable energizer with charged battery
• Lead-out wire to connect the fence to the energizer
• A fence tester to check voltage
• A mallet or driver for hard ground

Step 3: Set the Fence Line

Start at a corner and work along the fence line. Push step-in posts into the ground every 20 to 30 feet. On uneven ground or where animals may test the fence, use closer spacing. Unroll the polywire as you go, attaching it to the hooks on each post.

Step 4: Connect the Energizer

Place the energizer in a central location or near the permanent fence connection. Connect the lead-out wire from the energizer to the polywire. Make sure the connection is secure and the wire is not touching vegetation or the ground.

Step 5: Test the Fence

Use a fence tester to check voltage at the farthest point from the energizer. The voltage should be at least 3,000 volts for cattle and 4,000 volts for sheep and goats. If voltage is low, check for shorts caused by vegetation or broken wire. Clear vegetation from the fence line and repair any breaks.

Step 6: Move the Fence

When moving the fence, disconnect the energizer first. Remove the polywire from the posts, starting at one end. Roll the wire onto the reel as you go. Pull the step-in posts and stack them for transport. Move the materials to the new location and repeat the setup process.

Common Fencing Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

Many fencing problems come from the same avoidable mistakes. Learn these common errors and take steps to prevent them.

Underpowered Energizer

An energizer that is too small for the fence length will not deliver enough voltage to contain livestock. Animals quickly learn that the fence is weak and will push through it. Choose an energizer with 25 to 50 percent more capacity than you need. This accounts for vegetation growth, poor grounding, and future fence extensions.

Poor Grounding

A fence is only as good as its ground system. Many electric fences fail because the ground system is inadequate. Use at least 3 ground rods, 6 to 8 feet apart, connected with heavy gauge wire. In dry or sandy soil, add more ground rods. Test the ground system by placing a metal rod in the ground and measuring voltage between the rod and the fence wire.

Improper Post Spacing

Posts that are spaced too far apart will not support the wire tension. The fence will sag, and animals will push through. Posts that are too close waste money and make installation harder. Follow the recommended spacing for your fence type and adjust for terrain.

Ignoring Vegetation

Vegetation touching an electric fence drains voltage and reduces its effectiveness. A fence that is not visibly sparking may still be losing power to grass and weeds. Control vegetation under the fence line with mowing, herbicides, or a weed barrier. Check the fence line regularly and clear any growth that touches the wire.

Using the Wrong Wire for the Species

Barbed wire is not suitable for sheep, goats, or horses. Woven wire with large mesh can trap sheep heads. Electric netting with large mesh may not deter predators. Match the fence type to your livestock species and their behaviors.

Neglecting Maintenance

All fences need regular inspection and repair. A fence that is not maintained will fail when you need it most. Walk your fence lines regularly and fix problems immediately. Replace broken posts, tighten loose wire, and repair damaged insulators. Keep spare materials on hand so you can make repairs quickly.

Forgetting Gates

Gates are a common point of failure. A gate that does not latch properly can be pushed open by curious livestock. Hinges wear out, and latches break. Inspect gates regularly and replace worn hardware. Consider installing gates that are easy to operate from horseback or from a vehicle.

Monitoring and Recordkeeping

Good fence management requires regular monitoring and accurate records. A fence that is not checked will fail. Keep records of fence installation, maintenance, and repairs to track costs and identify recurring problems.

Daily Checks

Walk your fence lines regularly, especially after storms, high winds, or heavy snow. Look for:

• Broken or sagging wire
• Posts that are leaning or loose
• Gaps under the fence
• Vegetation touching electric wires
• Damaged insulators or connectors
• Animals that are injured or entangled

For electric fences, use a fence tester to check voltage at several points along the fence. Record the voltage readings so you can identify trends. A gradual drop in voltage may indicate a developing problem.

Seasonal Maintenance

Plan seasonal maintenance tasks:

• Spring: Inspect fences after winter, repair frost damage, clear vegetation
• Summer: Check for vegetation growth, tighten wire, inspect energizer and batteries
• Fall: Prepare for winter, repair damage before snow, check battery condition
• Winter: Check fences after storms, clear snow from wires, monitor energizer

Recordkeeping

Keep a fence maintenance log with the following information:

• Date of inspection
• Fence section inspected
• Voltage readings
• Repairs made
• Materials used
• Time spent on maintenance
• Problems identified

This log helps you track costs and identify problem areas. It also helps you plan for future fence improvements or replacements.

When to Call a Professional

Most fencing work can be done by a skilled farmer, but some situations require professional help. Call a fencing contractor or extension agent when:

• You are installing a large fence and do not have the equipment or labor
• You need to cross difficult terrain such as rocky ground, streams, or steep slopes
• You are unsure about property boundaries or legal requirements
• Your fence has recurring problems that you cannot solve
• You need to design a complex fencing system for a new operation

Your local cooperative extension office can provide guidance on fencing options, local regulations, and cost-share programs. They can also connect you with experienced fencing contractors in your area.

Integrating Fencing with Grazing Management

Fencing and grazing management work together. The best fence in the world will not help if your grazing system is poorly designed. Use fencing to implement your grazing plan and improve pasture health.

Rotational Grazing

Rotational grazing divides pasture into smaller paddocks and moves livestock through them on a schedule. This system improves forage utilization, reduces selective grazing, and allows pasture plants to recover between grazing periods. Temporary fencing makes rotational grazing practical because you can adjust paddock sizes and move animals as needed.

A simple rotational system uses 4 to 8 paddocks with grazing periods of 3 to 7 days. More intensive systems use 20 or more paddocks with daily moves. Start with a simple system and add paddocks as you learn what works for your operation.

Strip Grazing

Strip grazing gives animals access to a narrow strip of pasture and moves the fence forward daily or every few days. This system is efficient for annual forages, crop residues, and stockpiled pasture. It reduces waste because animals cannot select only the best plants.

Set up a permanent back fence to keep animals off grazed areas, then use temporary fencing to create the strip. Move the front fence forward each day, giving animals fresh forage. The back fence prevents animals from returning to grazed areas and reduces parasite reinfection.

Sacrifice Areas

A sacrifice area is a small, permanent area where animals stay when pasture is unavailable or too wet to graze. It is not a true sacrifice of pasture, but a planned area that can tolerate heavy use. Confining animals to a sacrifice area protects the rest of your pasture from damage.

Build a sacrifice area near water, shade, and your handling facilities. Use permanent fencing because this area stays in the same place. Provide adequate space to prevent overcrowding and manage mud and manure in the area.

Special Considerations for Sheep and Goats

Sheep and goats have specific fencing needs that differ from cattle. Their small size and curious nature require fences that are more substantial and better maintained.

Fence Height and Spacing

Sheep and goats need fences that are 40 to 54 inches tall. They can jump or climb over shorter fences, especially when motivated by feed or predators. The bottom of the fence must be close to the ground to prevent animals from crawling under. Use woven wire with mesh openings no larger than 6 inches at the bottom.

For electric fences, use closer wire spacing for sheep and goats. A typical sheep fence uses 6 to 8 strands with the bottom wires 4 to 6 inches apart. Goats need even closer spacing at the bottom because they can squeeze through small openings.

Predator Control

Predators are a serious threat to sheep and goats. Coyotes, dogs, foxes, and even birds of prey can kill or injure livestock. Fencing is your primary defense against ground predators.

Woven wire fences provide the best predator control because they create a physical barrier. Add 2 to 3 strands of barbed wire or electric wire at the top to prevent predators from climbing over. Electric netting is also effective if properly maintained and powered. A fence that is not electrified is much less effective against predators.

Check fences daily for signs of predator activity. Look for digging under the fence, tracks, and disturbed soil. Repair any damage immediately. Consider using guardian animals such as livestock guardian dogs in addition to fencing.

Wool and Fiber Concerns

Sheep wool catches on barbed wire and rough surfaces. Barbed wire should never be used for sheep fencing. Woven wire with smooth edges is safer. Electric fences with smooth wire are also safe if properly installed and maintained.

Check sheep regularly for wool caught on fences. A sheep caught on a fence can injure itself or become prey. Keep fences in good repair and remove any sharp edges or protrusions.

Special Considerations for Cattle

Cattle are strong and can push through fences that would hold smaller livestock. Their size and behavior require fences that are tall, strong, and well maintained.

Fence Height and Strength

Cattle fences should be 48 to 54 inches tall. A mature bull can reach over a 48 inch fence, so use 54 inches for bull pens. The fence must be strong enough to withstand cattle pushing against it. Use heavy gauge wire and sturdy posts set deep in the ground.

High tensile electric fences are popular for cattle because they are effective and less expensive than woven wire. However, cattle must be trained to respect electric fences. A calf that has never encountered an electric fence may push through it. Run a training fence with visible flags or tape to teach cattle to avoid the electric wire.

Handling Facilities

Your fencing system should integrate with your handling facilities. Plan fence lines that funnel cattle toward catch pens, chutes, and loading areas. Use solid fencing in handling areas to reduce stress and improve animal flow. Consider installing permanent fencing around your working facilities to protect them from damage.

Weaning and Calving Areas

Plan permanent fencing for calving and weaning areas. These areas should be close to the barn, water, and equipment. Calving areas need protection from wind and predators. Weaning areas should allow calves to see other cattle while preventing direct contact.

Use permanent fencing for these areas because they stay in the same location. Temporary fencing can be used to divide calving paddocks into smaller areas for individual cows and calves.

Environmental and Legal Considerations

Fencing projects may be subject to local regulations and environmental requirements. Check with your local authorities before you start any fencing project.

Property Boundaries

Know your property boundaries before you build a fence. A fence built on a neighbor's property can create legal problems. Survey your property if you are unsure about boundary lines. Talk to your neighbors about shared fences and reach an agreement before building.

Waterways and Wetlands

Fences crossing streams and wetlands may require permits. Check with your local conservation district or environmental agency before building. Consider using a stream crossing that allows livestock to access water without damaging the streambed. A hardened crossing with gravel or concrete protects the stream and reduces erosion.

Wildlife Considerations

Fences can affect wildlife movement. Barbed wire and woven wire fences can injure deer and other wildlife. Consider using smooth wire for the top strand to reduce injury risk. Leave gaps or use wildlife-friendly gates where animals regularly cross. Electric fences are less harmful to wildlife because they do not entangle animals.

Cost-Share Programs

Some government programs offer cost-share assistance for fencing projects. The USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service (NRCS) provides technical and financial assistance for conservation practices, including fencing for rotational grazing. Check with your local NRCS office for available programs.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much does livestock fencing cost per foot?

The cost varies widely by material and installation method. Barbed wire fencing costs about 1 to 2 dollars per foot for materials. Woven wire costs 2 to 4 dollars per foot. High tensile electric fencing costs 1 to 3 dollars per foot. Temporary fencing with polywire and step-in posts costs 20 to 50 cents per foot. Labor costs add to these totals if you hire a contractor. Your actual cost depends on terrain, post spacing, and local material prices.

What is the best fence for sheep?

Woven wire with small mesh at the bottom is the best all around fence for sheep. It provides a physical barrier that contains sheep and deters predators. Use 6 inch mesh at the bottom and 12 inch mesh above. Add 2 to 3 strands of electric wire at the top for extra predator control. Electric netting is also effective for rotational grazing systems, but it requires more maintenance than woven wire.

Can I use temporary fencing for cattle?

Yes, temporary fencing works well for cattle, especially for rotational grazing. Use polywire or polytape with step-in posts for daily or weekly moves. Cattle need a fence that is 48 to 54 inches tall and visible. Polytape is more visible than polywire and is a better choice for cattle. Use a powerful portable energizer to ensure adequate voltage at the farthest point.

How often should I check my electric fence?

Check electric fences daily if you have livestock in the area. Test voltage at several points along the fence and look for vegetation touching the wire. Clear vegetation and repair any damage immediately. In winter, check fences after storms to clear snow and ice from the wires. A fence that is not checked regularly will fail when you need it most.

How many strands of wire do I need for cattle?

A typical cattle fence uses 5 strands of high tensile wire or 4 to 5 strands of barbed wire. The bottom strand should be 12 to 16 inches above the ground, and the top strand should be 48 to 54 inches. For bulls, use 6 strands or increase the fence height to 60 inches. Adjust the number of strands based on your specific situation and cattle behavior.

What size energizer do I need for my fence?

Choose an energizer based on the length of fence you need to power and the vegetation conditions. A general guide is 1 joule of output for up to 1 mile of fence with light vegetation, 2 to 3 joules for 2 to 3 miles with moderate vegetation, and 5 joules or more for long fences or heavy vegetation. Buy an energizer with more capacity than you think you need to account for poor grounding, wet vegetation, and future expansion.

How do I train livestock to respect electric fencing?

Introduce animals to electric fencing in a small, secure area where they cannot escape if they test the fence. Allow them to touch the fence with their noses or bodies. Most animals learn after one or two shocks. Use visible flags or tape on the fence for the first few weeks to help animals see the wire. Once animals respect the fence, you can remove the flags.

How long does a permanent fence last?

A well built permanent fence can last 20 to 40 years with proper maintenance. Barbed wire and woven wire fences last longest when posts are set properly and wire tension is maintained. High tensile electric fences also last 20 to 30 years. The lifespan depends on material quality, climate, and maintenance. Inspect your fence regularly and replace worn components before they fail.

Related Farming Guides

This section will be populated with related farming guides. Check back for new content on grazing management, livestock handling, and pasture improvement to complement your fencing system.

Related Clinical & Scientific Guides

• Animal Welfare Audits: Building a Useful Farm Program
• Total Mixed Ration (TMR) for Dairy: Mixing and Feeding Management
• Feed Additives for Livestock: Probiotics, Enzymes, and More

References

• USDA Farm Management: https://www.farmers.gov/
• FAO Farm Management: https://www.fao.org/farmer-field-schools/en/
• FAO Animal Production and Health: https://www.fao.org/animal-production/en/
• WOAH (World Organisation for Animal Health): https://www.woah.org/en/home/

This article is educational and is not a substitute for veterinary diagnosis, treatment, public-health guidance, or regulatory reporting.