Feedlot Mound Construction and Maintenance

By Dr. Zubair Khalid, DVM, MS, PhD · 2026-08-14

Key Takeaways

Feedlot mounds, constructed from well-drained soils like sandy loam or clay loam, provide cattle with elevated, dry resting areas, mitigating mud accumulation which is linked to a 10-15% reduction in weight gain and increased incidence of foot rot and respiratory disease.
Optimal mound dimensions include a 8-12 foot top width, 2.5-4 foot height, and 3:1 to 4:1 side slopes, with a 2-4% crown slope to ensure rapid water shedding, and a surface area of 10-20% of the pen area (15-25 sq ft per animal).
Effective mound maintenance necessitates regular inspections (weekly and post-rain events), prompt removal of saturated bedding (top 4-6 inches), and addition of 6-12 inches of dry bedding (straw, shavings, etc.) to maintain surface dryness and animal comfort.
Mounds require rebuilding every 2-5 years, indicated by significant height loss (>50%), concave crowns, severe erosion, or soil contamination, and should be integrated into a broader environmental management plan to control nutrient runoff into water sources.
Proper mound placement on the highest pen ground, oriented with prevailing winds and at least 20 feet from feed bunks/waterers, is critical for effective drainage and to prevent cattle from crowding or blocking access to essential resources.

Feedlot mounds are raised areas of packed soil and bedding that give cattle a dry place to rest in pens. When built and maintained correctly, mounds reduce mud, improve animal comfort, and cut down on health problems tied to wet conditions. This guide covers how to plan, build, and care for feedlot mounds over their full lifespan. It is written for feedlot operators, farm managers, and stockmen who want practical, field-ready advice. You will learn how to size and place mounds, choose the right soil and bedding, handle drainage, fix common problems, and keep records that help you make better decisions each season.

At a Glance

Mounds give cattle a raised, dry resting area that reduces mud and keeps animals cleaner.
Place mounds on the highest ground in the pen with good drainage away from feed bunks and waterers.
Build mounds 8 to 12 feet wide at the top and 2.5 to 4 feet high, with side slopes of 3:1 to 4:1.
Use well-drained soil like sandy loam or clay loam for the mound core. Avoid heavy clay that holds water.
Add 6 to 12 inches of bedding on top of the mound and refresh it regularly.
Mound surface area should equal 10 to 20 percent of the pen area, or about 15 to 25 square feet per animal.
Slope the mound crown so water sheds off quickly. A 2 to 4 percent crown slope works well.
Inspect mounds weekly during wet weather and after heavy rain events.
Rebuild or reshape mounds every 2 to 5 years depending on use, soil type, and weather.
Remove manure and wet bedding from mound surfaces on a regular schedule to keep the top dry.
Call your extension agent if you see persistent drainage failures or severe erosion that you cannot fix with routine maintenance.

Why Mounds Matter in Feedlots

Mud is one of the biggest enemies of feedlot performance. When cattle stand in mud, they burn extra energy just to move around. That energy comes from feed that should go into weight gain. Studies from land-grant universities have shown that cattle in muddy conditions can gain 10 to 15 percent less than cattle on dry footing. Mud also increases the risk of foot rot, respiratory disease, and other infections. Wet hides trap heat and cold, making cattle less comfortable in both summer and winter.

Mounds solve the mud problem by giving cattle a place to get out of the wet. A well-built mound stays dry on top even when the rest of the pen is soupy. Cattle naturally seek out the highest, driest spot in a pen. If you give them a good mound, they will use it. If you do not, they will stand in mud or crowd against fences and feed bunks looking for dry ground.

Mounds also help with manure management. When cattle rest on mounds, they deposit manure and urine in a concentrated area. That makes it easier to collect and remove. It also keeps the rest of the pen cleaner and reduces the amount of runoff that carries nutrients off your operation.

Planning Your Mound System

Before you start pushing dirt, take time to plan. A mound that is poorly placed or undersized will not work no matter how well you build it. Walk your pens and study how water flows across them. Look at where cattle spend their time. Watch where mud forms first and where it dries out last. That information tells you where mounds will help the most.

Assess Your Pen Drainage

Mounds work best when the pen itself has decent drainage. If water stands in your pen for days after a rain, fix the drainage before you build mounds. A mound sitting in a pond will not help anyone. Look at the overall slope of your feedlot. Ideally, pens should slope 2 to 4 percent away from feed bunks and waterers. If your pens are flat or have low spots, consider installing drainage tile, shaping the pen surface, or adding a grass waterway to carry water away.

Determine Mound Size and Number

The size of your mounds depends on how many cattle you run and how much space they need. A good rule of thumb is to provide 15 to 25 square feet of mound surface per animal. That gives every animal room to lie down without crowding. For a pen of 100 cattle, you need 1,500 to 2,500 square feet of mound top.

You can build one large mound or several smaller ones. In a typical feedlot pen, one or two mounds work well. If you have a very large pen, three or four smaller mounds may be better. Spread them out so cattle do not have to walk far to reach dry ground. Place mounds at least 20 feet away from feed bunks and waterers. That keeps the area around feed and water cleaner and prevents cattle from blocking access.

Choose Mound Location

Put mounds on the highest ground in the pen. If your pen has a natural rise, build on that. The mound should shed water away from the pen, not into it. Orient the long axis of the mound so it runs with the prevailing wind. That helps the mound dry faster after rain and keeps the surface from staying wet.

Avoid placing mounds where they will block drainage or create a dam across the pen. Water should flow around the mound, not pool behind it. Leave enough space between the mound and the pen fence so equipment can get through for cleaning and maintenance.

Consider Your Climate

Your local weather should shape your mound design. In wet, cold climates, you need bigger mounds with steeper crowns to shed water fast. In dry climates, mounds can be flatter and smaller. If you get heavy snow, build mounds high enough that they stay above the snowpack. If you get intense summer storms, make sure your mound surface can handle rapid runoff without eroding.

Selecting the Right Soil for Mound Construction

The soil you use for the mound core determines how well the mound holds up. Not all soil is equal. You want soil that packs well, drains reasonably, and does not turn to soup when wet.

Good Soil Options

Sandy loam and clay loam are the best choices for mound construction. These soils have enough sand to drain and enough clay to hold together. They pack firmly under cattle traffic and resist rutting better than loose sand. A mix of about 40 to 60 percent sand with the rest silt and clay works well for most feedlot mounds.

Gravelly soils can also work if they have enough fines to bind together. If you have access to crushed limestone or other aggregate, you can mix it with soil to improve drainage and firmness. Some operations build a gravel base and cap it with soil or bedding.

Soil to Avoid

Avoid heavy clay soils that swell when wet and shrink when dry. These soils turn slick and sticky in wet weather and crack badly in dry weather. They hold water at the surface and take a long time to dry out. Avoid pure sand as well. Sand does not hold together under cattle traffic and will rut and wash away quickly.

If you have no choice but to use less-than-ideal soil, consider mixing in amendments. Adding coarse sand to heavy clay improves drainage. Adding clay to sandy soil helps it hold together. In some cases, you can bring in better soil from off-site, but that adds cost. Weigh the expense against the long-term performance of your mounds.

Test Your Soil

Before you build, take soil samples from the area you plan to dig. Send them to a soil testing lab or your local extension office. They can tell you the texture, drainage characteristics, and organic matter content of your soil. This information helps you decide whether to use the soil as-is or amend it.

Step-by-Step Mound Construction

Once you have a plan, you can start building. Follow these steps in order to get a mound that lasts.

Step 1: Mark Out the Mound Footprint

Use stakes and string to mark the base of your mound. The base will be wider than the top because of the side slopes. For a mound that is 10 feet wide on top and 3 feet high with 3:1 slopes, the base will be about 28 feet wide. Mark the full base area so you know exactly where to build.

Step 2: Strip the Topsoil

Remove the top 6 to 8 inches of topsoil from the mound footprint. Topsoil contains organic matter that breaks down over time and causes settling. It also holds moisture and can make the mound surface soft. Strip it away and use it elsewhere on your operation or stockpile it for other projects.

Step 3: Build the Mound Core

Start pushing dirt into the footprint using a dozer or loader. Build the mound in layers. Each layer should be 8 to 12 inches thick. Compact each layer before adding the next. A sheepsfoot roller works best for compaction, but a loaded scraper or dozer tracking over the fill can also work. Proper compaction prevents settling and keeps the mound from developing soft spots.

Build the mound to your target height. Remember that the mound will settle some over the first few months, so build it 10 to 15 percent higher than your final target. If you want a 3-foot mound, build it to about 3.5 feet.

Step 4: Shape the Crown and Slopes

Once the core is at height, shape the top and sides. The crown should slope from the center to the edges at a 2 to 4 percent grade. That means the center is 2 to 4 inches higher than the edges for every 10 feet of mound width. This slope sheds water quickly and keeps the top from staying wet.

Shape the side slopes to 3:1 or 4:1. A 3:1 slope drops 1 foot for every 3 feet of horizontal distance. Gentler slopes are easier for cattle to climb and less likely to erode. Steeper slopes shed water faster but are harder on cattle and more prone to erosion.

Step 5: Smooth the Surface

After shaping, smooth the surface with a box blade or grader. You want a firm, even surface with no ruts or depressions. Small dips in the surface will hold water and create mud holes. Take your time and get the surface as smooth as you can.

Step 6: Add Bedding

The final step is adding bedding. Bedding protects the soil surface, absorbs moisture, and gives cattle a softer place to lie down. Spread 6 to 12 inches of bedding over the entire mound top. You can use straw, corn stalks, soybean stubble, wood shavings, or other dry organic material. The bedding should be dry and free of mold.

Step 7: Let the Mound Settle

Do not put cattle on a new mound right away. Let it settle for a few weeks if possible. This gives the soil time to compact further and the bedding time to pack down. If you must use the mound immediately, watch it closely for settling and add fill as needed.

Bedding Management for Mounds

Bedding is not a one-time addition. It requires ongoing management to keep the mound working. Think of bedding as a renewable resource that you add, remove, and replace on a regular schedule.

How Much Bedding to Use

The amount of bedding you need depends on your climate, the number of cattle, and the type of bedding you use. In wet weather, you will need more. As a starting point, plan to add 1 to 2 inches of fresh bedding per week during wet conditions. In dry weather, you can stretch that to every two weeks.

When to Add Bedding

Add bedding when the existing bedding starts to look wet or dirty. If you see cattle standing on bare spots, add bedding to those areas immediately. Check mounds after every rain event. Rain compacts bedding and washes away the fines, leaving you with less protection.

When to Remove Bedding

Wet, manure-laden bedding does not help cattle. It holds moisture against their hooves and hides and creates a breeding ground for bacteria. Remove the top 4 to 6 inches of bedding when it becomes saturated or heavily contaminated. This is called mucking out. You can do this with a skid steer or loader. Remove the dirty bedding to your manure storage area and replace it with fresh material.

Bedding Options

Different bedding materials have different strengths. Straw is cheap and widely available in grain-growing areas. It absorbs well and breaks down slowly. Corn stalks are also inexpensive and work well, especially if you chop them first. Wood shavings absorb more moisture than straw but cost more. They also last longer between changes. Sawdust is similar to shavings but packs down harder. Avoid using green wood products that have high moisture content.

Stockpile Bedding

Keep a supply of bedding on hand so you can respond quickly to weather events. A good rule is to have at least two weeks of bedding stored under cover. Wet bedding is heavy and hard to handle, and it does not absorb moisture well. Store your bedding in a dry place, preferably under a roof or tarp.

Maintaining Feedlot Mounds

Mounds need regular maintenance to stay in good shape. Plan to inspect your mounds at least weekly and after any significant rain or snow event. Regular maintenance is much cheaper than rebuilding a neglected mound.

Weekly Inspections

Walk your mounds at least once a week. Look for:

Ruts or depressions in the surface
Erosion on the side slopes
Bare spots where soil is showing
Wet or muddy areas on the crown
Damage from equipment or vehicles
Signs of excessive settling

Take notes on what you find. A simple notebook or a phone app works fine for this. Record the date, the mound location, and any problems you see. This record helps you spot trends and plan maintenance.

Routine Maintenance Tasks

Most weeks, your maintenance will be simple. Add bedding to thin or bare spots. Smooth out small ruts with a rake or box blade. Push up any soil that has washed to the base of the mound. These small tasks take minutes but keep your mound working well.

Dealing with Wet Spots

If you find a wet spot on the mound, fix it quickly. The wet spot will only get bigger if you ignore it. Remove the wet bedding and the top inch or two of wet soil. Let the area dry out if possible. Then add fresh bedding. If the wet spot keeps coming back, the mound may have a drainage problem. You may need to reshape the crown to improve water shedding or add more bedding in that area.

Erosion Control

Side slopes are the most vulnerable part of a mound. Heavy rain can wash soil down the slopes and undercut the crown. If you see rills or gullies on the slopes, fill them in and compact the soil. You can also plant grass on the side slopes to hold soil in place. Grass roots bind the soil and slow water runoff. However, keep the top of the mound bare or covered with bedding so cattle have a clean, dry surface.

Winter Maintenance

Winter brings special challenges. Snow and ice can cover mounds and make them slippery. Cattle may avoid the mound if it is icy. Keep the mound surface rough enough to provide traction. Spreading a thin layer of bedding over icy spots helps. When snow melts, the mound should drain quickly. If you see water pooling on the mound in early spring, improve the crown slope and check for blocked drainage.

Spring Cleanup

Spring is the time for a thorough mound cleanup. Remove all the old bedding and manure from the mound surface. Inspect the soil underneath for damage. Fill ruts and depressions. Reshape the crown if it has flattened over the winter. Add fresh bedding to get the mound ready for the grazing or summer season.

Common Mound Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

Even experienced operators make mistakes with mounds. Here are the most common problems and how to avoid them.

Building Mounds Too Small

An undersized mound does not give cattle enough room. They crowd onto the mound, churn up the surface, and create mud anyway. Measure your mound surface area and compare it to your cattle numbers. If you have less than 15 square feet per animal, build additional mounds or enlarge the ones you have.

Poor Drainage Around Mounds

A mound in a poorly drained pen will not work. Water pools around the base, softens the soil, and undermines the mound. Fix pen drainage before building mounds. If your pen already has mounds and drainage is poor, consider adding drainage tile or reshaping the pen surface.

Using the Wrong Soil

Mounds built with heavy clay or pure sand will fail quickly. The soil turns to mud or washes away. If you have already built mounds with poor soil, you may need to rebuild them with better material. In some cases, you can cap the existing mound with a layer of good soil and bedding.

Ignoring Bedding

Bedding is not optional. A bare soil mound will turn to mud in wet weather. Cattle will not use it, and the mound will erode. Commit to a regular bedding schedule and keep a supply of bedding on hand.

Letting Mounds Flatten

Over time, cattle traffic and weather flatten mounds. The crown becomes level or even concave. Water pools on the surface, and the mound stops working. When you see this happening, add fill to restore the crown height and slope.

Driving Equipment on Mounds

Heavy equipment can damage mounds, especially when the soil is wet. Keep trucks and tractors off the mound surface. Use the alleyways between mounds for equipment traffic. If you must drive on a mound, wait until the soil is dry and use the lightest equipment possible.

When to Rebuild a Mound

No mound lasts forever. With good maintenance, a mound can last 5 to 10 years. With heavy use and poor drainage, it might last only 2 or 3 years. Watch for signs that a mound needs rebuilding.

Signs You Need to Rebuild

The mound has lost more than half its original height.
The crown is concave and holds water no matter how much fill you add.
The side slopes have eroded so badly that equipment cannot climb them.
The soil has become contaminated with manure to the point that it will not pack.
The mound has settled unevenly and has large soft spots.

Rebuilding Process

To rebuild a mound, start by removing all bedding and the top layer of contaminated soil. You may be able to reuse the existing soil if it is still in good condition. Add fresh fill to bring the mound back to its original height. Compact in layers as you did for the original construction. Reshape the crown and slopes, then add fresh bedding.

Consider a Different Design

When you rebuild, think about whether your original design was right. If you had drainage problems, address them before rebuilding. If the mound was too small, make it bigger. If the side slopes eroded, make them gentler or add grass. Rebuilding is your chance to improve the mound, not just recreate the same problems.

Monitoring Mound Performance

Good recordkeeping helps you make better decisions about your mounds. Track how your mounds perform over time and use that information to improve your system.

What to Track

Keep records on:

Mound construction date and specifications
Bedding additions and removals
Maintenance activities
Weather events that affected the mound
Cattle health issues related to mud or moisture
Costs of bedding and maintenance

How to Use Your Records

Review your records at the end of each season. Look for patterns. Did a particular mound have more wet spots than others? Did one type of bedding work better than another? Did mounds in certain pens need more maintenance? Use this information to adjust your practices next year.

Simple Scoring System

You can create a simple scoring system to track mound condition. Rate each mound on a scale of 1 to 5 for surface dryness, bedding condition, and overall function. A score of 5 means the mound is in excellent condition. A score of 1 means it needs immediate attention. Record these scores monthly and track changes over time. This gives you an early warning when a mound starts to fail.

Mound Design Variations

Not all feedlots are the same. Depending on your setup, you may need to adapt the standard mound design.

Mounds for Small Pens

In small pens with fewer than 30 cattle, a single mound may be enough. Build the mound to cover 15 to 25 square feet per animal. A mound 8 feet wide and 20 feet long provides 160 square feet of surface, enough for 6 to 10 cattle. For a pen of 20 cattle, build a mound 10 feet wide and 40 feet long.

Mounds for Large Open Lots

Large open lots need multiple mounds spread across the pen. Space mounds evenly so cattle do not have to walk far for dry ground. In a 100-head pen, two mounds of 1,000 square feet each work better than one mound of 2,000 square feet. Cattle will use both mounds more evenly, and each mound will experience less wear.

Composted Mounds

Some operations use composted mounds, also known as bedded packs. These mounds are built with a thick layer of organic material that composts as cattle use it. The composting process generates heat, which keeps the mound warm in winter and helps dry out moisture. Composted mounds require more bedding than conventional mounds but can provide better comfort in cold climates.

To manage a composted mound, add bedding frequently to keep the carbon-to-nitrogen ratio balanced. The pile should have a pleasant earthy smell and steam in cold weather. If it starts to smell like ammonia or rot, you are not adding enough bedding. If it is not heating up, the pile is too dry or too wet.

Mounds with Concrete or Geotextile Reinforcement

In some operations, builders reinforce mounds with geotextile fabric or interlocking concrete blocks. These materials prevent erosion and extend mound life. They cost more upfront but can save money over time by reducing maintenance. Consider this option if you have chronic erosion problems or if you want a permanent mound in a high-traffic area.

Environmental and Regulatory Considerations

Feedlot mounds have environmental implications. Runoff from mounds can carry nutrients and bacteria into nearby water sources. Many states regulate feedlot runoff under clean water rules. Check with your state agriculture department or your local extension office to understand the rules that apply to your operation.

Managing Runoff

Mounds should be part of a larger water management plan. Runoff from mounds should flow into a settling basin or vegetative treatment area, not directly into a stream or ditch. Keep a vegetated buffer strip around your feedlot to filter runoff. If you are building new mounds, design them so they do not direct water toward sensitive areas.

Manure Management

The manure and bedding you remove from mounds must be handled properly. Store it in a designated area with a liner or pad to prevent leaching. Apply it to cropland at agronomic rates. Test your manure regularly so you know what you are applying. Overapplying manure can pollute groundwater and surface water.

Nutrient Testing

Mound manure can be a valuable fertilizer. It typically contains nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium that your crops can use. Test the manure from your mounds every year or two. The results tell you how much to apply per acre. Remember that bedding material adds carbon and can tie up nitrogen in the soil, so adjust your application rates accordingly.

Health and Safety Considerations

Mounds affect cattle health in several ways. Understanding these connections helps you manage your mounds for better animal welfare.

Foot Health

Mud is a major cause of foot problems in feedlot cattle. Foot rot, digital dermatitis, and other hoof infections thrive in wet, dirty conditions. Mounds give cattle a dry place to stand, which reduces their exposure to these pathogens. If you see an increase in lameness, check your mounds first. Wet or poorly maintained mounds may be the cause.

Respiratory Health

Mud and moisture contribute to respiratory disease in cattle. Wet hides make cattle lose body heat faster, forcing them to burn energy to stay warm. This stress weakens their immune systems. Mounds help cattle stay dry and conserve energy, reducing their susceptibility to respiratory infections.

Heat Stress

In summer, mounds can help cattle stay cooler if they are positioned to catch prevailing breezes. The raised surface of a mound gets more airflow than ground level. However, dark-colored mounds can absorb heat and become uncomfortable in hot weather. Light-colored bedding like straw reflects more heat than dark soil or manure.

Cold Stress

In winter, mounds give cattle a dry place to lie down. A dry cow loses much less body heat than a wet cow. Bedded mounds provide insulation between the animal and the frozen ground. This is especially important for young calves and cows in thin body condition.

When to Call a Veterinarian or Extension Agent

Most mound problems are construction and maintenance issues that you can solve yourself. However, there are times when you should seek professional help.

Call Your Veterinarian If

You see a sudden increase in lameness or foot problems in your herd.
Cattle are showing signs of respiratory disease that you cannot control with management changes.
You suspect that mound conditions are causing or worsening health problems.
You need help developing a herd health plan that accounts for your mound system.

Call Your Extension Agent If

You are planning a new mound system and want design help.
Your mounds are failing and you cannot figure out why.
You need help with soil testing or interpreting soil test results.
You have questions about manure management regulations.
You want to evaluate the economics of different mound designs or bedding options.

When to Call a Professional Engineer

For large feedlot expansions or major drainage projects, consider hiring a professional engineer with experience in livestock facility design. They can help you design a complete water management system that includes mounds, drainage, and runoff control. This investment can save you money in the long run by preventing costly failures.

Economics of Mound Construction and Maintenance

Mounds cost money to build and maintain. Understanding the economics helps you make smart decisions about how much to invest.

Construction Costs

The cost of building a mound depends on your location, soil availability, and equipment access. If you have a dozer or loader and good soil on your property, the cost is mainly fuel and labor. If you need to bring in soil or rent equipment, costs go up. As a rough guide, expect to spend $1 to $3 per square foot of mound surface for construction. A 2,000-square-foot mound might cost $2,000 to $6,000 to build.

Maintenance Costs

Ongoing costs include bedding, labor, and equipment time. Bedding costs vary widely by region and material. Straw might cost $30 to $60 per ton. Wood shavings can cost $50 to $100 per ton. Plan on using 1 to 2 tons of bedding per 100 square feet of mound surface per year. That works out to $0.50 to $2 per square foot annually.

Return on Investment

Mounds pay for themselves through improved cattle performance and reduced health costs. If mounds reduce mud and help cattle gain even 0.1 pound per day more, that adds up over a feeding period. For 100 cattle fed for 150 days, a 0.1 pound per day improvement means 1,500 additional pounds of gain. At $1.50 per pound, that is $2,250 per pen. Mounds also reduce the cost of treating foot rot and respiratory disease, which can run $20 to $50 per head per case.

Cost-Saving Strategies

You can reduce mound costs by:

Using on-farm materials like corn stalks or soybean stubble for bedding
Building mounds with soil you already have on hand
Doing routine maintenance promptly to avoid costly rebuilds
Sharing equipment with neighbors for construction projects
Planning mound location to minimize drainage work

Frequently Asked Questions

How many mounds do I need in a feedlot pen?

The number of mounds depends on pen size and cattle numbers. Provide 15 to 25 square feet of mound surface per animal. For a 100-head pen, you need 1,500 to 2,500 square feet total. You can build one large mound or two or three smaller ones. Spread mounds out so cattle can reach dry ground without walking far. Place mounds at least 20 feet from feed bunks and waterers.

What is the best height for a feedlot mound?

Build mounds 2.5 to 4 feet high, measured from the base to the crown. Build them 10 to 15 percent higher than your target to allow for settling. A 3-foot mound is a good standard for most operations. In very wet climates or heavy snow areas, build toward the taller end of the range.

How steep should the sides of a mound be?

Use side slopes of 3:1 to 4:1. A 3:1 slope drops 1 foot for every 3 feet of horizontal distance. Gentler slopes are easier for cattle to climb and less likely to erode. Steeper slopes shed water faster but are harder on cattle and more prone to erosion. If you have heavy cattle or older animals, use the gentler slope.

What is the best material for bedding feedlot mounds?

Good bedding materials include straw, corn stalks, soybean stubble, wood shavings, and sawdust. The best choice depends on what is available and affordable in your area. Straw and corn stalks are cheap in grain-growing areas. Wood products absorb more moisture but cost more. Use dry, mold-free material. Avoid green wood products that are high in moisture.

How often should I add bedding to mounds?

Add bedding when the existing bedding starts to look wet or dirty. In wet weather, you may need to add 1 to 2 inches of fresh bedding weekly. In dry weather, you can stretch that to every two weeks. Check mounds after every rain event and add bedding to bare or wet spots immediately.

Why is my mound always wet on top?

A wet mound top usually means poor drainage. Check the crown slope. It should shed water from the center to the edges at a 2 to 4 percent grade. If the crown is flat or concave, water pools on the surface. Reshape the crown to restore proper slope. Also check that the mound base is not sitting in a low spot where water collects.

Can I build mounds on heavy clay soil?

Heavy clay is not ideal for mound construction because it holds water and turns slick when wet. If you have no choice but to use clay, mix in coarse sand or gravel to improve drainage. You can also cap the mound with a layer of better soil or build a thick bedding pack on top. In some cases, it is better to bring in soil from off-site than to build with poor material.

How long does a feedlot mound last?

With good maintenance, a mound can last 5 to 10 years. With heavy use, poor drainage, or poor soil, it may last only 2 to 3 years. Rebuild the mound when it loses more than half its height, when the crown becomes concave and holds water, or when the soil becomes so contaminated with manure that it will not pack.

Related Farming Guides

This section will be populated with links to other farming guides on this site that cover related topics such as feedlot pen design, cattle health management, manure handling, and pasture management.

Related Clinical & Scientific Guides

References

Beef Cattle Research Council: https://www.beefresearch.ca/
USDA APHIS Cattle Health: https://www.aphis.usda.gov/livestock-poultry-disease/cattle
WOAH Terrestrial Animal Health Code: https://www.woah.org/en/what-we-do/standards/codes-and-manuals/terrestrial-code-online-access/
FAO Animal Production and Health: https://www.fao.org/animal-production/en/
WOAH (World Organisation for Animal Health): https://www.woah.org/en/home/

This article is educational and is not a substitute for veterinary diagnosis, treatment, public-health guidance, or regulatory reporting.