Pond Fish Feed Budgeting and Ration Planning

By Dr. Zubair Khalid, DVM, MS, PhD · 2026-08-14

Key Takeaways

• Feed budgeting is critical as feed constitutes 40-60% of pond fish production costs; underfeeding stunts growth and overfeeding wastes resources and degrades water quality.
• The Feed Conversion Ratio (FCR) is a primary metric, with realistic values for warmwater species like tilapia and catfish typically ranging from 1.2 to 2.0 in pond environments.
• Daily feed rations are calculated as a percentage of total fish biomass, adjusted by water temperature and fish size, with a common starting point of 3% of body weight per day for actively feeding fish at optimal temperatures (75-85°F).
• Water temperature is the principal determinant of feeding rates for ectothermic fish; warmwater species significantly reduce or cease feeding below 50-60°F, necessitating ration adjustments or cessation.
• Accurate recordkeeping of feed added, estimated fish weight, and water temperature is essential for calculating FCR, adjusting rations, and identifying operational inefficiencies.
• Before feeding, especially in the morning, check dissolved oxygen levels; feeding stressed fish due to low oxygen leads to feed waste and potential mortality.

Feeding is the largest variable cost in most pond fish operations, often consuming 40 to 60 percent of total production expenses. Getting the ration wrong in either direction costs money: underfeeding slows growth and extends time to market, while overfeeding wastes feed and degrades water quality. This guide explains how to build a practical feed budget for your pond, calculate daily rations by hand or with simple records, adjust feeding as water temperature changes, and track feed conversion so you know whether your money is producing fish or just fertilizing algae. It is written for small to medium pond operators, farm managers, and aquaculture students who want a clear planning framework without relying on expensive software or consultants.

At a Glance

• A feed budget starts with a target harvest weight, not with the feed bag. Decide how many fish you want to produce and at what size, then work backward to total feed needed.
• Feed conversion ratio (FCR) is the single most useful number in feed planning. It tells you how many pounds of feed it takes to produce one pound of fish. Realistic pond FCRs usually fall between 1.2 and 2.0 for warmwater species like tilapia and catfish.
• Daily ration should be based on a percentage of the total fish biomass in the pond, and that percentage changes with water temperature and fish size. A common starting point is 3 percent of body weight per day for actively feeding fish at optimal temperatures.
• Feed only what fish will eat in 20 to 30 minutes when using floating feed. If feed remains after that window, you are overfeeding.
• Water temperature is the main control on feeding rate. Fish stop feeding effectively below about 60°F for warmwater species, and feeding should be cut sharply or stopped below 50°F.
• Keep a simple weekly record of feed added, estimated fish weight, and water temperature. Without records you cannot calculate FCR or adjust next season's budget.
• Check aeration and dissolved oxygen before feeding in the morning. Feeding fish that are already stressed by low oxygen will waste feed and can cause mortality.
• Call an extension agent or aquatic veterinarian if fish stop feeding for more than two or three days when water temperature is normal, or if you see fish at the surface gasping, unusual swimming, or visible lesions.

Understanding Fish Feed Budgeting

Fish feed budgeting is the process of planning how much feed you will need for a full production cycle, then translating that total into daily or weekly feeding amounts that match your fish's growth and the conditions in your pond. It is not a one-time calculation. A budget is a living document that you revise as fish grow, as seasons change, and as you learn the actual performance of your pond.

A feed budget serves three purposes. First, it tells you how much feed to purchase and when to purchase it, so you do not run out mid-season or tie up cash in inventory you cannot use. Second, it gives you a daily or weekly target for feeding, which prevents the common error of feeding by guesswork. Third, it creates a baseline for measuring feed conversion, which is your best indicator of whether the operation is efficient or wasting money.

The audience for this planning process includes anyone who manages a pond for food fish production. A backyard pond owner raising fish for family consumption needs the same basic math as a commercial operator, just at a smaller scale. The difference is not in the principles but in the precision of the records and the size of the financial risk.

The Biology Behind Feeding Rates

Fish are ectothermic animals, meaning their body temperature follows the water around them. This has a direct effect on metabolism and therefore on how much feed a fish can process. When water is cold, a fish's digestive system slows down. When water warms, digestion speeds up, and the fish needs more energy to support its higher metabolic rate.

For warmwater species such as catfish, tilapia, carp, and bass, the optimal feeding window usually falls between 75°F and 85°F. Within that range, fish are at their most active and convert feed to growth most efficiently. As water temperature drops below 70°F, feeding activity begins to decline. Below 60°F, most warmwater fish reduce feeding sharply, and below 50°F they typically stop feeding altogether. Feeding fish at cold temperatures is not just wasteful. It can be harmful, because undigested feed rots in the gut and can cause disease.

Coolwater species such as trout and salmon have a different temperature curve. They feed best between 50°F and 65°F and become stressed when water temperatures climb above 70°F. If you raise trout, your feeding schedule should follow the coolwater pattern, not the warmwater pattern.

Oxygen also controls feeding. Fish need oxygen to digest feed, and digestion itself consumes oxygen. Feeding a pond that already has low dissolved oxygen can push fish past their tolerance limit. This is why the classic advice is to check oxygen before the morning feeding, especially in summer when overnight oxygen levels can drop.

Calculating Total Feed Needed for a Production Cycle

The first step in feed budgeting is to define your production goal. You need four numbers: the number of fish you plan to stock, the average weight you expect at harvest, the average weight at stocking, and a realistic feed conversion ratio.

The formula for total feed is simple:

Total feed needed = (target harvest weight minus stocking weight) x number of fish x expected FCR

Work in pounds or kilograms, but stay consistent. If you stock 1,000 fingerlings at an average weight of 0.1 pound each and you want to harvest them at 1.5 pounds each, the total weight gain is 1.4 pounds per fish. Multiply by 1,000 fish to get 1,400 pounds of gain. If you expect an FCR of 1.6, you need 2,240 pounds of feed for the cycle.

That number is your planning figure. It assumes your fish survive at the rate you expect and that your FCR estimate is realistic. If you expect some mortality, adjust the number of fish accordingly. If you stock 1,000 fish and expect 90 percent survival, plan on 900 harvestable fish and calculate the feed budget on that number.

Choosing a realistic FCR is the hardest part of this calculation. Feed companies often list FCR values from controlled trials that are better than what you will achieve in a pond. A pond has natural food, temperature swings, oxygen fluctuations, and disease pressure. For warmwater pond species, a planning FCR of 1.5 to 1.8 is reasonable for a well-managed operation. If your pond has poor water quality, inconsistent feeding, or frequent disease problems, plan on 2.0 or higher. If you are raising fish in a high-flow raceway or a well-aerated tank system with excellent water quality, you might plan on 1.2 to 1.4.

The total feed number is your purchasing target. It tells you how many bags or tons to buy for the season. But you should not buy all of it at once. Feed loses nutritional quality over time, especially in hot humid conditions. Buy in batches that cover four to six weeks of feeding, and store feed in a cool dry place with good air circulation.

Daily Ration Calculation

Once you know the total feed for the season, you need a method for deciding how much to feed each day. The standard approach is to feed a percentage of the fish biomass in the pond. The percentage changes based on fish size and water temperature.

For fingerlings and small fish, feed at a higher percentage of body weight, typically 4 to 5 percent per day. Small fish have faster relative growth rates and need more feed per pound of body weight. As fish grow, the percentage drops. A fish at 0.5 pound might be fed at 3 percent of body weight. A fish at 1.5 pounds might be fed at 2 percent. Large broodstock might only need 1 to 1.5 percent.

Temperature adjustments work on top of the size-based percentage. Here is a practical schedule for warmwater fish:

Above 85°F, reduce feeding to 50 to 75 percent of the normal rate. High temperatures stress fish and lower oxygen levels, so pushing feed is counterproductive.

Between 75°F and 85°F, feed at the full rate for the fish size.

Between 65°F and 75°F, feed at 50 to 75 percent of the full rate.

Between 55°F and 65°F, feed at 25 percent or less, and only on days when fish are actively coming to the surface.

Below 55°F, stop feeding warmwater fish except in special circumstances, and only with veterinary guidance.

This schedule is a starting point, not a fixed rule. The best daily check is observation. If fish are not coming to the feed within a few minutes of feeding, or if feed is left floating after 30 minutes, you are feeding too much. Cut back the next day.

To calculate a daily ration, you need an estimate of the fish biomass in the pond. You start with the number and weight of fish stocked. Then you add expected growth based on feeding and FCR. A simple method is to update your biomass estimate every two weeks using the feed records.

Here is the process. Track the total feed you have added over the past two weeks. Divide by the FCR you are assuming, and that gives you the weight gain over that period. Add that gain to your previous biomass estimate. Then apply the daily percentage to the new biomass.

Example: You start with 1,000 pounds of fish in a pond. Over two weeks you feed 300 pounds of feed. Assuming an FCR of 1.5, the fish gained 200 pounds. Your new biomass estimate is 1,200 pounds. If the water is at 80°F and fish are at 1 pound average, you feed about 3 percent per day, which is 36 pounds per day.

This method is not perfect, but it is practical and it forces you to keep records. Over time, you can refine your FCR estimate based on what you actually see at harvest.

Feeding Schedules and Methods

The schedule for feeding pond fish depends on species, size, and water temperature. For most warmwater pond fish, feeding once or twice per day is standard. Small fingerlings often do better with two or three feedings per day because their stomachs are small and they cannot take in enough at one feeding. Larger fish can be fed once per day effectively.

Feed at the same times each day. Fish learn to expect feed at a certain time and will come to the feeding area, which makes it easier to observe their appetite and health. Morning feeding is common because you can check oxygen levels first. Afternoon feeding is also acceptable. Avoid feeding at dusk in summer because oxygen levels fall overnight and the added digestive load can stress fish.

When you feed, scatter the feed over a defined area rather than dumping it in one spot. This reduces competition and gives smaller or weaker fish a chance to eat. For larger ponds, use a feeder that spreads feed over a wide area. For small ponds, you can broadcast feed by hand.

Floating feed is easier to manage than sinking feed because you can see whether fish are eating it. If you use sinking feed, you lose that visual check and must rely on sampling or observation of fish activity. Most commercial pond operations use floating pellets for this reason.

A common mistake is feeding on a fixed schedule regardless of conditions. Skip feeding or reduce the ration on days when oxygen is low, when a cold front is passing through, or when fish are showing signs of stress. A day without feed is not a disaster. A week of overfeeding into a stressed pond can be.

Adjusting the Ration as Fish Grow

Your daily ration should change as fish grow, even if water temperature stays constant. A pond of 1,000 fish at 0.2 pound each has a biomass of 200 pounds and needs about 8 pounds of feed per day at 4 percent. The same 1,000 fish at 1.0 pound each has a biomass of 1,000 pounds and needs about 30 pounds per day at 3 percent.

The easiest way to manage this is to recalculate the ration every two weeks using the biomass estimation method described earlier. Mark the expected ration on a calendar so you have a target to check against. If your actual feeding is consistently above or below the target, investigate why.

If fish are eating more than the target, they may be growing faster than expected, which is good. But they may also be wasting feed because the ration is too large. Check for uneaten feed and adjust down.

If fish are eating less than the target, check water temperature, oxygen, and fish health. A sudden drop in feed intake is often the first sign of a disease outbreak or a water quality problem.

Feed Conversion Ratio and What It Tells You

Feed conversion ratio is the weight of feed divided by the weight gain of the fish. If you feed 1,500 pounds of feed and the fish gain 1,000 pounds, your FCR is 1.5. Lower is better because it means more efficient conversion of feed to fish flesh.

To calculate FCR accurately, you need good records. You need the total weight of fish at stocking, the total weight at harvest, and the total feed fed during the period. If you are calculating FCR for a partial period, you need a reliable estimate of biomass at the start and end of that period.

An FCR below 1.0 is possible only if fish are getting a significant amount of natural food from the pond. This happens in ponds with rich natural productivity, especially for species that graze on algae or zooplankton. It can also happen if you are raising fish that feed low on the food chain.

An FCR above 2.0 usually signals a problem. Common causes include poor feed quality, overfeeding, feed loss to wild fish or birds, disease, poor water quality, or inaccurate biomass estimates. Before you blame the feed, check your records and your feeding practices.

Track FCR by production cycle, not by month. Monthly FCR calculations are noisy because fish growth is not linear and because biomass estimates have error. A full-cycle FCR is the number that matters for your profit calculation.

Common Mistakes in Feed Budgeting

The most common mistake in feed budgeting is guessing the FCR instead of measuring it. Farmers often use the FCR from the feed bag or from a neighbor's operation. Those numbers may not apply to your pond. Until you have your own data, use a conservative estimate and track actual performance.

The second most common mistake is overfeeding in the belief that more feed means more fish. Fish have a genetic limit to growth rate. Extra feed beyond what they can process is wasted, and the decomposition of that waste consumes oxygen and produces ammonia. Overfeeding is one of the fastest ways to ruin water quality in a pond.

The third mistake is ignoring water temperature. Feeding a full ration on a cool day is wasteful. Feeding a full ration on a very hot day can kill fish through oxygen depletion. The feeding rate must track the temperature curve.

The fourth mistake is inconsistent feeding. Fish grow best when they receive a steady supply of feed. Erratic feeding, where fish get a lot one day and nothing the next, reduces feed efficiency and increases stress.

The fifth mistake is failing to account for natural food. A productive pond provides some nutrition for free. If you budget based on a low FCR that assumes natural food, you may underfeed. If you budget based on a high FCR that ignores natural food, you may overfeed. Start with a middle estimate and adjust based on observed fish growth.

The sixth mistake is not adjusting for mortality. If you lose 20 percent of your fish to disease or predators, your feed budget is too high. Recalculate based on the fish you actually have.

Monitoring and Recordkeeping

You cannot manage a feed budget without records. The minimum record set is simple: date, water temperature, feed amount offered, estimated feed consumed, and any observations about fish behavior or water quality.

Keep these records in a notebook or a spreadsheet. Update them daily. Once per week, total the feed for the week and compare it to your budget. Once per month, recalculate biomass and adjust the daily ration. At harvest, calculate the actual FCR and compare it to your planning FCR.

Water temperature should be recorded at the same time each day, ideally in the morning before feeding. A simple thermometer is sufficient. If you have a dissolved oxygen meter, record morning oxygen levels as well, especially in summer.

Observe fish behavior at each feeding. Healthy fish come to feed aggressively. Fish that are slow to come, that feed weakly, or that do not feed at all are telling you something is wrong. Record these observations so you can spot trends.

Weigh fish periodically to check growth. A seine sample of 20 to 30 fish every two to four weeks gives you a good estimate of average weight. Weigh them individually or in a group and divide. Compare the actual weight gain to the expected gain from your feed records. If actual gain is below expected, either your FCR assumption is too optimistic or fish are not getting all the feed you think they are.

When to Call a Veterinarian or Extension Agent

Most feed management problems are solved by adjusting the ration or improving water quality. But some situations require professional help.

Call an aquatic veterinarian or extension agent if fish stop feeding for more than two or three days when water temperature is in the normal range. This is often the first sign of disease. Do not wait until fish are dying to seek help.

Call if you see fish gasping at the surface in the morning, especially if this happens after a feeding period. This indicates low dissolved oxygen, which can be caused by overfeeding. Stop feeding immediately and aerate the pond if possible.

Call if you see unusual swimming behavior, such as fish circling, swimming upside down, or rubbing against objects. These can indicate parasitic infections or water quality problems.

Call if you see visible lesions, ulcers, or fungal growth on fish. These require diagnosis and treatment.

Call if you have a sudden die-off of fish, even a small number. Early diagnosis of a disease outbreak can save the rest of the crop.

When you call, be ready to provide your records. The veterinarian or agent will want to know water temperature, oxygen levels, feeding rates, fish behavior, and how long the problem has been going on. Good records make the diagnosis faster and more accurate.

Water Quality and Its Effect on Feeding

Feed and water quality are linked in a cycle. Feed affects water quality through waste products, and water quality affects how well fish can use feed. Managing one without the other is impossible.

The main water quality concerns for feeding are dissolved oxygen, ammonia, nitrite, and pH. High ammonia levels reduce feed intake and growth. High nitrite levels interfere with oxygen transport in the blood. Extreme pH swings stress fish and reduce feeding.

Ammonia is produced directly by fish excretion and by the decomposition of uneaten feed. In a pond with good biological filtration, bacteria convert ammonia to nitrite and then to nitrate, which is less toxic. But when you overfeed, the ammonia load can exceed what the pond can process, and ammonia levels climb.

The practical rule is to feed in proportion to the pond's ability to process waste. A pond with good aeration and water exchange can handle more feed per acre than a static pond. A pond stocked at high density needs more careful feed management than a lightly stocked pond.

If you see a pattern of declining feed intake over several days, check ammonia and nitrite levels before you assume disease. Water quality problems are more common than disease in most pond operations.

Seasonal Feed Planning

A full production cycle spans multiple seasons, and your feed budget should reflect that. In temperate climates, the feeding season for warmwater fish runs from late spring through early fall. The number of feeding days in a season depends on your location and the weather in any given year.

Plan your feed purchases around the expected feeding season. If you have a 120-day feeding season and your budget calls for 2,240 pounds of feed, you need about 19 pounds per day on average. But you will feed more in midsummer and less in spring and fall. Buy enough for the peak months and order more as needed.

In tropical or subtropical climates, feeding can continue year-round, but you still need to adjust for seasonal temperature swings and for rainy seasons that may affect water quality.

At the end of the feeding season, you will have leftover feed. Store it properly over winter or use it for other purposes. Do not feed it to fish when water is too cold for them to digest it.

Partial Budgeting for Feed Decisions

Sometimes a feed decision is not about the whole season but about a specific choice. Should you buy a more expensive high-protein feed or a cheaper lower-protein feed? Should you feed twice a day instead of once? Should you add an aeration system to allow higher feeding rates?

A partial budget helps you evaluate these choices. A partial budget looks only at the costs and revenues that change with the decision. It has four parts: added costs, reduced costs, added revenue, and reduced revenue.

Example: You are considering a higher-protein feed that costs 10 percent more per bag but promises a better FCR. The added cost is the price difference times the number of bags. The reduced cost is the savings from needing fewer bags if the FCR improves. The added revenue is the value of faster growth or higher survival. If the benefits exceed the added cost, the decision makes sense.

Run the numbers before you change your feeding program. A decision that looks good in theory can fail in practice if the assumptions are wrong.

Feed Storage and Quality Control

Feed is perishable. Poor storage can ruin feed and waste your budget. Store feed in a clean, dry, well-ventilated area. Keep bags off the floor on pallets or shelves to prevent moisture wicking. Keep the area free of rodents and insects, which can contaminate feed and spread disease.

Check the manufacturing date on each batch of feed. Use older feed first. Do not buy more feed than you can use within six to eight weeks in warm weather.

Inspect feed for mold, off odors, or discoloration before feeding. Moldy feed can produce toxins that sicken or kill fish. If feed looks or smells wrong, do not feed it.

Feed quality varies by manufacturer and by batch. If you switch feed brands or formulas, watch feed intake closely for the first few days. Fish may need time to accept a new feed, and the nutritional profile may differ from what you used before.

Decision Thresholds for Adjusting Feed

Having clear thresholds helps you make consistent decisions instead of reacting to every change in conditions. Here are practical thresholds for adjusting feed:

Water temperature below 60°F for warmwater fish: cut feeding to 25 percent of normal or stop.

Water temperature above 90°F: cut feeding to 50 percent or stop until temperatures moderate.

Morning dissolved oxygen below 3 parts per million: do not feed until oxygen recovers.

Fish not coming to feed within 5 minutes of feeding: reduce the ration by half.

Feed remaining after 30 minutes: reduce the next ration by 25 percent.

Fish off feed for two consecutive days: investigate water quality and fish health.

Ammonia above 1 part per million: reduce feeding by 50 percent until levels drop.

These thresholds are starting points. Your pond may need different thresholds based on species and stocking density. The point is to have a plan so you do not make feeding decisions by mood or guesswork.

Scaling the Budget for Multiple Ponds

If you manage more than one pond, build a separate feed budget for each pond and then combine them for purchasing. Ponds differ in size, stocking density, water quality, and fish size. A single combined budget will be wrong for every pond.

Label each pond and keep separate records for each. This allows you to compare performance between ponds and identify which ponds need management changes.

For purchasing, combine the budgets and add a safety margin of 5 to 10 percent for unexpected losses, cold snaps that extend the season, or feed that is damaged in storage.

The Role of Natural Pond Productivity

Ponds are not just containers for fish. They are living systems that produce natural food in the form of phytoplankton, zooplankton, insects, and other organisms. This natural food contributes to fish growth and reduces the amount of manufactured feed you need.

The contribution of natural food depends on pond fertility, sunlight, and stocking density. In a lightly stocked pond with good fertility, natural food can supply a significant portion of the fish's diet. In a densely stocked pond, natural food is a minor supplement.

You can manage natural productivity through fertilization, but this is a separate topic from feed budgeting. For feed planning purposes, assume that natural food provides a modest contribution and adjust your FCR estimate accordingly. If you see fish growing faster than your feed records predict, natural food is probably playing a larger role than you assumed.

When to Stop Feeding

Knowing when to stop feeding is as important as knowing when to start. For warmwater fish, stop feeding when water temperature drops below 55°F for several consecutive days. Feeding at lower temperatures wastes feed and can harm fish.

Stop feeding several days before harvest. This clears the digestive tracts of fish and reduces the risk of contamination during processing. A withdrawal period of two to five days is typical, depending on species and water temperature.

Stop feeding when fish are under stress from handling, transport, or disease treatment. Fish that are stressed will not eat effectively, and the feed will pollute the water.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I calculate the amount of feed for my pond fish?

Start with your target harvest weight and the number of fish you expect to harvest. Subtract the average stocking weight, multiply by the number of fish, then multiply by your expected feed conversion ratio. For example, if you want to grow 1,000 fish from 0.1 pound to 1.5 pounds each at an FCR of 1.6, you need 1,000 times 1.4 pounds of gain times 1.6, which equals 2,240 pounds of feed for the cycle.

What is a good feed conversion ratio for pond fish?

For warmwater pond species like catfish and tilapia, a good FCR is between 1.2 and 1.8 in a well-managed pond. If your FCR is above 2.0, look for problems with feed quality, overfeeding, water quality, or disease. If your FCR is below 1.2, your fish are likely getting significant nutrition from natural pond foods.

How many times a day should I feed pond fish?

Fingerlings and small fish do best with two or three feedings per day because their stomachs are small. Larger fish can be fed once or twice per day. Feed at the same times each day and only what the fish will consume in 20 to 30 minutes.

What is the best feeding schedule for pond fish in summer?

In summer, feed in the morning after checking dissolved oxygen, or in the late afternoon. Avoid feeding at dusk because oxygen levels drop overnight and the digestive load can stress fish. If morning oxygen is below 3 parts per million, skip the feeding until oxygen recovers.

How do I know if I am overfeeding my pond fish?

The clearest sign is uneaten feed floating on the surface 30 minutes after feeding. Other signs include declining water quality, algae blooms, and fish gasping at the surface. Overfeeding wastes money and degrades water quality, so it is better to underfeed slightly than to overfeed.

Should I feed my fish when the water is cold?

For warmwater fish, stop feeding when water temperature drops below 55°F. Below 60°F, cut feeding to about 25 percent of the normal rate. Cold water slows digestion, and undigested feed can rot in the fish's gut and cause disease. Coolwater species like trout have a different temperature curve and feed best in cooler water.

How do I estimate the fish biomass in my pond without weighing all the fish?

Use a seine to sample 20 to 30 fish, weigh them as a group, and divide to get the average weight. Multiply by your estimated number of fish in the pond. Update this estimate every two to four weeks. Between samples, estimate growth from your feed records by dividing feed added by your assumed FCR.

What should I do if my fish suddenly stop eating?

Check water temperature, dissolved oxygen, ammonia, and nitrite first. If those are normal, watch for signs of disease such as unusual swimming, lesions, or gasping. If fish are off feed for more than two or three days, contact an aquatic veterinarian or extension agent. A sudden loss of appetite is often the first sign of a problem.

Related Farming Guides

This section will be populated with links to related farming guides covering adjacent topics such as pond stocking density, water quality management, aeration systems, and species-specific production guides.

Related Clinical & Scientific Guides

• Pond Sediment Management and Dredging Options
• Indoor Aquaculture Facilities: Lighting and Insulation
• Greenhouse Aquaculture: Extending Growing Seasons

References

• FAO Fisheries and Aquaculture: https://www.fao.org/fishery/en
• USDA Aquaculture: https://www.usda.gov/topics/farming/aquaculture
• WOAH Aquatic Animal Health Code: https://www.woah.org/en/what-we-do/standards/codes-and-manuals/aquatic-code-online-access/
• FAO Animal Production and Health: https://www.fao.org/animal-production/en/
• WOAH (World Organisation for Animal Health): https://www.woah.org/en/home/

This article is educational and is not a substitute for veterinary diagnosis, treatment, public-health guidance, or regulatory reporting.