Providing Water Sources for Bees: Design and Placement in the Apiary

By Dr. Zubair Khalid, DVM, MS, PhD · 2026-08-14

Key Takeaways

Critical for Colony Health and Productivity: Providing a reliable, safe water source is essential for honey bee thermoregulation (evaporative cooling), diluting honey for larval feeding, pollen digestion, and maintaining brood nest humidity, with strong colonies potentially requiring over a quart of water daily in hot weather.
Strategic Placement and Design: Water stations should be located within 50-100 feet of hive entrances, in partial shade, and protected from wind; designs must incorporate shallow water (under half an inch) with ample landing surfaces like pebbles, marbles, or floating wood to prevent drowning.
Attractants and Maintenance Protocols: Initial attraction can be enhanced with a small amount of non-iodized salt (1 tsp/gallon) or a few drops of lemongrass oil, but sugar or honey should be avoided; regular water changes every 2-3 days in warm weather are crucial to prevent mosquito breeding and algae growth.
Water Consumption as a Health Indicator: Monitoring water usage provides a direct insight into colony health; a sudden decrease can signal colony stress, disease, or death, while a significant increase may indicate high temperatures or increased brood rearing.
Pesticide Contamination Risk and Response: Bees are attracted to mineral content, making contaminated sources like pesticide-laden puddles or chlorinated pools a significant risk; immediate removal of the water source and consultation with veterinary or extension services are necessary if mass bee deaths or signs of poisoning are observed near a water station.

Bees need water just like every other living creature on a farm. A reliable water source keeps your colonies healthy, reduces robbing behavior, and prevents bees from gathering water from unsafe places like livestock troughs, pet bowls, or neighboring swimming pools. This guide covers how to build and place bee water stations, how to train bees to use them, how to maintain them through the seasons, and how to troubleshoot common problems. It is written for beekeepers of all experience levels, from first-year hobbyists to commercial operations managing hundreds of hives.

At a Glance

Place your bee water station within 50 to 100 feet of the hive entrance for best results.
Use shallow water with landing surfaces like pebbles, marbles, cork, or floating wood so bees can drink without drowning.
Change the water every 2 to 3 days in warm weather to prevent mosquito breeding and algae growth.
Add a scent attractant like a few drops of lemon grass oil or a small pinch of salt to help bees find the station initially.
Move the water source gradually, no more than a few feet per day, if you need to relocate it.
Provide water year-round in warm climates and during all active seasons in cold climates.
Monitor water consumption as a health indicator. A sudden drop can signal colony stress or death.
Call your veterinarian or extension agent if you see mass bee deaths near the water source or signs of pesticide contamination.

Why Bees Need a Dedicated Water Source

Honey bees use water for several critical functions inside the hive. Worker bees collect water and bring it back in their honey stomachs, then pass it to other workers who use it for specific purposes. Understanding these uses helps you design a better water station.

Cooling the Hive

The most urgent use of water is thermoregulation. When hive temperatures rise above about 95 degrees Fahrenheit, worker bees begin fanning their wings at the entrance and inside the hive. Other workers bring water and spread it in thin films over the brood comb and interior surfaces. The fanning bees create airflow that evaporates the water, which pulls heat out of the hive. This evaporative cooling is the same principle used in swamp coolers. A strong colony can bring in more than a quart of water per day during hot weather.

Diluting Honey and Feeding Larvae

Bees use water to adjust the consistency of honey before feeding it to larvae. Stored honey is thick and concentrated, often with less than 18 percent water content. Nurse bees dilute it with water to create a suitable food for young larvae. Bees also use water to dissolve crystallized honey and sugar stores during winter and early spring.

Digesting Pollen

Water is essential for the digestion of pollen. Nurse bees consume pollen and produce royal jelly and brood food. This process requires water. Colonies that lack access to water can show reduced brood rearing even when pollen is abundant.

Maintaining Humidity

In dry climates, bees use water to raise humidity inside the brood nest. The brood area needs a relative humidity around 50 to 60 percent for proper larval development. Without enough water, brood can dry out and die.

Natural Water Sources Are Not Always Enough

In natural settings, bees collect water from dew, rain puddles, stream edges, and plant surfaces. On a farm or in a residential area, these sources may be scarce or contaminated. During drought, puddles disappear. In agricultural areas, puddles in fields may contain pesticide runoff. In urban areas, the only water available might be chlorinated swimming pools, bird baths, or pet dishes. Providing a clean, consistent bee water station keeps your bees away from these risky sources and reduces conflicts with neighbors.

How Bees Find Water

Before you can design a good bee water station, you need to understand how bees locate water. Forager bees use a combination of senses to find water sources.

Scent and Taste

Bees have a strong sense of smell and taste. They are attracted to water that has a slight scent or mineral content. This is why bees often prefer muddy puddles, livestock troughs with algae, or water with a hint of salt over pure distilled water. The scent of chlorine in swimming pools can actually attract bees because it resembles certain minerals. Adding a mild attractant to your bee water station helps bees discover it faster.

Visual Cues

Bees find water partly by sight. They look for glinting surfaces, reflections, and dark patches that could indicate moisture. Shallow water with a dark bottom is more visible to bees than a deep white container. Moving water, like a dripping faucet or a small fountain, also attracts bees because it reflects light and makes noise.

Memory and Recruitment

Once a bee finds a good water source, she returns to the hive and performs a recruitment dance. This dance communicates the location and quality of the water to other foragers. Within a day or two, a well-placed water station can attract dozens of foragers from the same colony. This is why it is important to place the station correctly the first time. Moving it frequently confuses the foragers and forces them to re-learn the location.

Distance from the Hive

Bees prefer water sources close to the hive because it reduces travel time and energy expenditure. In one study, bees traveled up to half a mile for water when no closer source was available, but they strongly preferred sources within a few hundred feet. For practical purposes, place your bee water station within 50 to 100 feet of the hive entrance. This distance is close enough that bees can easily find it but far enough that the water activity does not create congestion at the hive entrance.

Designing a Bee Water Station

The design of your bee water station matters more than most beekeepers realize. A poorly designed station can drown bees, breed mosquitoes, or simply go unused. Here are the key design principles.

Shallow Water with Landing Surfaces

Bees cannot swim. They need to stand on something while they drink. The most important design feature of any bee water station is a landing surface that lets bees reach the water without falling in. You can achieve this in several ways.

Use a shallow container like a plant saucer, baking pan, or chicken waterer base. Fill it with water to a depth of no more than half an inch. Add pebbles, marbles, flat stones, or pieces of cork that break the water surface. The landing surfaces should be arranged so that some are partially submerged and some are dry. Bees will land on the dry parts and reach down to drink.

You can also use floating materials. Pieces of wood, cork bark, or styrofoam that float on the water surface give bees a stable platform. The key is that the landing surface must not tip over when a bee lands on it. Heavy pebbles and flat stones work better than lightweight materials that wobble.

Container Options

You have several options for the container itself.

A plant saucer or drip tray is the simplest option. These are shallow, wide, and readily available at any garden store. Choose a saucer that is at least 12 inches in diameter to give multiple bees room to land at once. Dark colored saucers work better than light ones because they absorb heat and are more visible to bees.

A chicken waterer base works well for larger operations. These are wider and hold more water, which means you do not have to refill them as often. The base of a standard chicken waterer is about 16 to 18 inches in diameter and holds about a gallon of water. Add pebbles or a piece of hardware cloth to create landing surfaces.

A five-gallon bucket lid turned upside down is a low-cost option. The recessed center holds water, and the rim provides a landing area. The downside is that the surface area is relatively small, so it can only serve a few hives at a time.

For commercial operations, you might consider a larger trough or a repurposed livestock water tank. These can serve dozens of hives. The key is to place floating boards or a ramp system so bees can access the water safely. A simple ramp made of a board set at a shallow angle into the water gives bees a walking path to the water's edge.

Water Depth and Surface Area

The water depth should never exceed half an inch in areas where bees need to land. If you use a deeper container, you must provide enough landing surfaces to break the surface everywhere. Bees will not use a water source where they cannot safely reach the water.

The surface area should be proportional to the number of hives you keep. A single saucer can serve one to three hives. A chicken waterer base can serve three to five hives. For more than five hives, you should provide multiple stations or a larger trough. A good rule of thumb is to provide at least 20 square inches of water surface area per hive.

Water Quality

Bees prefer water with some mineral content. Plain tap water works, but bees may ignore it if they have found a source they like better. You can make your bee water station more attractive by adding a small amount of salt. Use about one teaspoon of non-iodized salt per gallon of water. Do not use more than this, as high salt concentrations can harm bees.

You can also add a few drops of lemon grass oil or a drop of anise extract to the water initially. These scents attract bees and help them learn the location. Once bees have established a routine at the station, you can stop adding scents. The bees will remember the location.

Avoid adding sugar or honey to the water. This attracts ants and can promote the growth of harmful bacteria and fungi. It can also encourage robbing behavior among bees. Water stations should contain plain water with at most a little salt.

Shade and Sun Exposure

Place your bee water station in a location that gets partial shade. Full sun causes the water to evaporate quickly and can make the water too hot for bees. Full shade keeps the water cool but can slow evaporation and promote algae growth. A location that gets morning sun and afternoon shade is ideal.

In hot climates, the water temperature matters. Bees prefer water that is cooler than the surrounding air. If the water gets too hot, bees will avoid it. You can help keep the water cool by placing the station on the ground rather than on a raised surface, and by using a light colored container that reflects some heat.

Wind Protection

Bees have trouble landing on water in windy conditions. Place your bee water station in a sheltered spot, such as behind a windbreak, near a fence, or on the lee side of a building. A windbreak also helps keep the water from evaporating too quickly.

Step-by-Step Guide to Setting Up a Bee Water Station

Follow these steps to create a functional bee water station that your colonies will actually use.

Step 1: Choose the Location

Walk around your apiary and find a spot that meets these criteria:

Within 50 to 100 feet of the hive entrances
Partial shade
Protected from strong winds
On level ground
Away from high foot traffic areas
Away from areas where pesticides are applied
Visible from the hive entrance if possible

If you have multiple hives spread over a large area, you may need more than one water station. Place stations so that no hive is more than 150 feet from a water source.

Step 2: Select Your Container and Landing Materials

Choose a container based on the number of hives you have. For a backyard apiary with one to three hives, a 12-inch plant saucer is sufficient. For larger operations, use a chicken waterer base or a small trough.

Gather landing materials. Flat river stones, large pebbles, marbles, or pieces of broken terracotta pot all work well. You need enough material to cover about half of the water surface. Rinse the materials thoroughly before placing them in the container.

Step 3: Fill and Prepare the Water

Fill the container with water to a depth of no more than half an inch. The landing surfaces should poke above the water. If you are using a deeper container, arrange the landing materials so that bees can reach the water from multiple angles.

Add salt if you want to make the water more attractive. Use one teaspoon of non-iodized salt per gallon of water. Stir until dissolved.

Add two or three drops of lemon grass oil to the water. This scent helps bees locate the station. You only need to do this once.

Step 4: Place the Station

Set the container in the chosen location. Make sure it is level so the water depth is consistent. If the ground is uneven, dig a shallow depression or place a leveling stone underneath.

Place the station on the ground rather than on a table or stand. Bees are accustomed to drinking from ground level puddles. A ground level station is also easier for bees to find.

Step 5: Show Bees the Water

Bees will not automatically find your water station. You need to help them. Here are several methods to attract their attention.

The most reliable method is to catch a few forager bees from your hive and release them at the water station. Use a small jar or a queen catcher to gently capture two or three bees at the hive entrance. Carry them to the water station and release them near the water. These bees will drink, return to the hive, and recruit other foragers.

You can also place a wet sponge or a piece of cloth soaked in the scented water near the hive entrance. Bees will investigate the moisture and follow the scent trail to the water station.

Another method is to use a board or a piece of wood as a ramp from the ground up to the water container. Place the board so that it touches the water surface. Bees can walk up the board and discover the water. Once they have learned the location, you can remove the board.

Step 6: Monitor and Adjust

Check the water station daily for the first week. Look for signs that bees are using it. You should see bees landing on the pebbles and drinking. You may also see bees collecting water and flying back toward the hives.

If you see no bee activity after three days, try these adjustments:

Move the station a few feet closer to the hive
Add more landing surfaces
Use a darker colored container
Add more lemon grass oil
Try a different location that is more visible

If bees are using the station but you still see them collecting water elsewhere, such as from a neighbor's pool, you may need to make your station more attractive. Add a little more salt or try a different scent attractant.

Step 7: Maintain the Station

Once bees are using the station regularly, you need to maintain it. Refill the water every 1 to 2 days in hot weather, and every 3 to 4 days in cooler weather. The water level should never drop below the top of the landing surfaces.

Clean the container every 1 to 2 weeks. Dump out the old water, scrub the container with a brush, and rinse thoroughly. Remove any algae, debris, or dead bees. Refill with fresh water and replace the landing materials.

Alternative Water Station Designs

The basic saucer design works for most beekeepers, but there are several alternative designs worth considering.

Drip System

A drip system provides a continuous supply of fresh water. Use a 5-gallon bucket with a small hole in the bottom, or use a livestock watering valve. Place the bucket above the water station and let it drip slowly into a shallow container. The dripping sound and the moving water attract bees. This system requires less frequent refilling and keeps the water fresher.

To make a simple drip system, drill a small hole in the bottom of a 5-gallon bucket. Insert a piece of rope or a cotton wick through the hole. The wick will slowly wick water out of the bucket and drip it into the container below. Adjust the wick thickness to control the drip rate. A drip rate of one drop per second provides about a gallon of water per day.

Wicking System

A wicking system uses a container with a wick that draws water up to a landing surface. This design keeps the water below the landing surface, so bees never risk drowning.

Fill a shallow container with water. Place a piece of absorbent cloth or a sponge so that one end is in the water and the other end is on a dry landing surface. The cloth wicks water up and keeps the landing surface moist. Bees drink from the moist cloth. This design works well in hot, dry climates because the cloth provides a large evaporative surface that bees can find by scent.

Floating Platform

For larger operations, a floating platform in a trough or tank works well. Take a piece of plywood or a styrofoam board and cut it to fit inside the water container. Drill several holes in the board so water can pool on top. The board floats on the water surface, and bees land on it and drink from the pooled water. This design is simple and can serve many hives at once.

Chicken Waterer Conversion

You can convert a standard chicken waterer into a bee water station. Remove the waterer top and invert the base so the recessed water channel faces up. Fill the channel with water and add pebbles or marbles. The wide base provides a stable platform and the shallow channel is perfect for bees. This design is durable and can serve up to five hives.

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

Even experienced beekeepers make mistakes with bee water stations. Here are the most common problems and how to solve them.

Drowning Bees

The most common problem is bees drowning in the water. This happens when the water is too deep or when landing surfaces are missing. If you find dead bees floating in your station, add more landing materials. Make sure the landing surfaces break the water surface so bees can reach the water without submerging.

Bees Ignoring the Station

If bees ignore your water station, they have likely found a better source elsewhere. This is common in areas with natural water sources or when a neighbor has a pool. To attract bees away from other sources, make your station more appealing. Add salt, use a scent attractant, and make sure the water is fresh. You may also need to move the station closer to the hive.

Mosquito Breeding

Stagnant water attracts mosquitoes. If you see mosquito larvae in your station, change the water more frequently. Mosquito larvae need about 7 to 10 days to develop, so changing the water every 2 to 3 days prevents them from maturing. You can also add a few drops of vegetable oil to the water. The oil creates a thin film that prevents mosquito larvae from breathing. The oil does not harm bees because they drink from the surface and the film is very thin.

Algae Growth

Algae can grow in water stations, especially in warm, sunny locations. Algae does not harm bees, but it can make the water smell and attract other insects. If algae becomes a problem, move the station to a shadier location or clean it more frequently. You can also add a small amount of bleach to the water, about one teaspoon per gallon. The bleach kills algae but is diluted enough that it does not harm bees. Do not use bleach if you have added salt, as the combination can create harmful compounds.

Ants Invading the Station

Ants are attracted to the moisture at a bee water station. They can overwhelm the station and deter bees. To prevent ants, place the water container on a stand with legs. Wrap each leg with sticky tape or apply a commercial ant barrier. Alternatively, place the container in a shallow dish of soapy water. The soapy water acts as a moat that ants cannot cross. Be sure to keep the soapy water separate from the bee drinking water.

Water Evaporating Too Quickly

In hot, dry climates, water can evaporate within a day. This forces bees to find other sources. To slow evaporation, use a deeper container with more water volume, place the station in shade, or use a drip system that continuously replenishes the water. You can also add floating materials like cork or styrofoam to reduce the exposed water surface.

Bees Drinking from Unsafe Sources

If your bees are drinking from a neighbor's pool, livestock trough, or pet bowl, you need to make your station more attractive and address the unsafe source. Talk to your neighbors about the problem and ask them to cover their pool when not in use or to provide a safe water source of their own. In many cases, a well-maintained bee water station that is closer to the hive will solve the problem within a week.

Seasonal Considerations

Your bee water station needs change with the seasons. Here is what to expect and how to adapt.

Spring

In spring, colonies are expanding rapidly. Brood rearing increases, and the colony needs more water to feed larvae and dilute honey. This is the time to ensure your water station is clean and fully operational. Spring is also a good time to add a second station if you have more than five hives, because colony populations are growing.

Summer

Summer is the peak water demand season. High temperatures force colonies to use water for evaporative cooling. A strong colony can collect more than a quart of water per day during heat waves. Check your station daily and refill as needed. Consider adding a drip system if you cannot keep up with the demand. In drought conditions, your station may be the only reliable water source for miles, so it becomes even more critical.

Fall

As temperatures cool, water demand decreases. Colonies are raising fewer brood and preparing for winter. You can reduce the frequency of refilling to every 3 to 4 days. However, do not let the station dry out completely. Bees still need water for digestion and hive maintenance.

Winter

In cold climates, bees cluster inside the hive and do not forage when temperatures are below about 50 degrees Fahrenheit. They do not need an outdoor water source during this time. However, in mild climates where bees remain active through winter, you should provide water year-round. In freezing conditions, the water will freeze. You can use a floating heater or a dark colored container that absorbs sunlight to keep the water from freezing. Alternatively, you can provide water inside the hive using a hive top feeder or an internal water system.

During Dearth Periods

A dearth period is a time when nectar is scarce. This often happens in mid-summer and late fall. During dearth periods, bees become more defensive and may start robbing other hives. A reliable water source becomes especially important because bees that cannot find water may become more aggressive. Keep your water station full and clean during dearth periods to reduce stress on the colony.

Training Bees to Use a New Water Station

Sometimes you need to move a water station or establish a new one. Bees are creatures of habit, and they will keep returning to the old location until they learn the new one. Here is how to train your bees to use a new station.

The Gradual Move Method

If you are moving a water station, do not move it all at once. Move it a few feet per day in the direction of the new location. Bees will follow the station as long as the move is gradual. This method works best when the new location is within 20 to 30 feet of the old one.

The Scent Trail Method

To establish a completely new station, use scent to guide bees. Place the new station in its final location. Add a strong scent attractant like lemon grass oil. Then, place a small dish of the same scented water near the old station or at the hive entrance. Bees will investigate the scented water and follow the scent trail to the new station. Repeat this process for several days until bees are regularly visiting the new station.

The Capture and Release Method

This is the most direct method. Capture a dozen or more forager bees from the hive entrance. Carry them to the new water station and release them near the water. The bees will drink and then fly back to the hive. They will return with other foragers. Repeat this process over several days until the new station is established.

The Sponge Method

Place a wet sponge soaked in scented water at the hive entrance. As the sponge dries, bees will investigate the moisture. Move the sponge a few feet away from the hive each day, toward the new water station. This creates a trail of moisture that bees can follow. Eventually, the bees will find the water station.

Monitoring and Recordkeeping

A bee water station is not a set-and-forget system. Regular monitoring helps you catch problems early and gives you insight into colony health.

Daily Checks

During the active season, check your water station daily. Look for:

Water level and quality
Presence of bees using the station
Dead bees or signs of drowning
Mosquito larvae or algae
Ants or other pests
Signs of pesticide contamination

Water Consumption as a Health Indicator

The amount of water your bees collect is a useful health indicator. A sudden drop in water consumption can mean the colony is stressed, diseased, or dead. A sudden increase can mean a heat wave or an increase in brood rearing.

Keep a simple log of water consumption. Note the date, the approximate number of bees you see at the station, and the amount of water you add. This log helps you spot trends and identify problems early.

Signs of Pesticide Contamination

If you see dead or dying bees near the water station, the water may be contaminated. Signs of pesticide poisoning include:

Large numbers of dead bees near the water
Bees with twisted or paralyzed bodies
Bees unable to fly
A chemical smell in the water
Unusual aggression or disorientation

If you suspect pesticide contamination, immediately remove the water station and replace the water. Contact your local extension agent to report the incident. They can help you determine the source of the contamination and advise on next steps.

Seasonal Recordkeeping

At the end of each season, record:

How many hives the station served
How much water the colonies used
Any problems you encountered
Any changes you made to the station design

This information helps you plan for next year. If you had to refill the station twice a day in summer, plan for a larger container or a drip system. If you had problems with ants, plan to add an ant barrier.

When to Call a Veterinarian or Extension Agent

Most bee water station problems are simple to solve on your own. However, there are situations where you should seek professional help.

Mass Bee Deaths

If you find large numbers of dead bees near your water station or in the apiary, this is an emergency. It could indicate pesticide poisoning, a disease outbreak, or a contaminated water source. Contact your veterinarian or local extension agent immediately. They can help you determine the cause and take appropriate action. Do not wait to see if the problem resolves on its own.

Signs of Disease

If you see bees with unusual symptoms near the water station, such as deformed wings, trembling, or an inability to fly, these could be signs of disease. Common bee diseases like American foulbrood and deformed wing virus can spread through contaminated water. Contact your veterinarian or extension agent for diagnosis and treatment recommendations.

Persistent Water Quality Issues

If your water tests show contamination from heavy metals, pesticides, or other pollutants, contact your extension agent. They can help you identify the source of contamination and recommend safer water sources. In agricultural areas, water runoff from treated fields can contaminate bee water stations.

Regulatory Concerns

If you are a commercial beekeeper, you may be required to report certain disease outbreaks or pesticide incidents to state or federal authorities. Your veterinarian or extension agent can help you understand your reporting obligations.

Frequently Asked Questions

How often should I change the water in my bee water station?

Change the water every 2 to 3 days during warm weather. This prevents mosquito breeding and keeps the water fresh. In cooler weather, you can change it every 4 to 5 days. Always change the water immediately if you see dead bees, algae, or other contamination.

Why are my bees drinking from the neighbor's pool instead of my water station?

Bees prefer water sources that are close to the hive and have a slight mineral content. Pool water often contains chlorine and other chemicals that mimic minerals. To attract bees away from the pool, move your water station closer to the hive, add a little salt to the water, and make sure the station is visible and accessible. You may also need to talk to your neighbor about covering the pool when it is not in use.

Can I use a bird bath as a bee water station?

Yes, a bird bath can work as a bee water station if you add landing surfaces. Fill the bird bath with water and add pebbles, marbles, or flat stones so bees can land safely. The shallow edges of a bird bath are ideal for bees. Just be aware that birds and bees may compete for the water, so you may need to provide a separate source for birds.

Do I need to add anything to the water to make it attractive to bees?

Plain water works, but bees are more attracted to water with a slight mineral content. Add one teaspoon of non-iodized salt per gallon of water to make it more attractive. You can also add a few drops of lemon grass oil initially to help bees find the station. Do not add sugar or honey, as this attracts ants and promotes bacterial growth.

How many water stations do I need for my apiary?

Provide at least one water station per five hives. A single 12-inch saucer can serve one to three hives. A chicken waterer base can serve three to five hives. For larger operations, use a trough or multiple stations. Place stations so that no hive is more than 150 feet from a water source.

What should I do if I find dead bees in my water station?

Remove the dead bees immediately and clean the station. If you find dead bees repeatedly, check for drowning hazards. Add more landing surfaces to prevent bees from falling in. If you find large numbers of dead bees, this could indicate poisoning or disease. Contact your veterinarian or extension agent.

Can I use a drip system instead of a shallow container?

Yes, a drip system is an excellent option, especially for larger operations. A 5-gallon bucket with a slow drip into a shallow container provides a continuous supply of fresh water. The dripping sound and moving water attract bees. A drip system requires less frequent refilling and keeps the water fresher than a static container.

What do I do with my water station in winter?

In cold climates, you can remove the water station when bees stop foraging, typically when temperatures drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. In mild climates where bees remain active, keep the station operating year-round. If the water freezes, use a floating heater or a dark colored container that absorbs sunlight. You can also provide water inside the hive using a hive top feeder.

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References

This article is educational and is not a substitute for veterinary diagnosis, treatment, public-health guidance, or regulatory reporting.